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TENT  LIFE   WITH 
ENGLISH  GIPSIES  IN  NORWAY. 


5n>  ■  • 


NOTICES  OF  THE  PRESS  ON  THE  FIRST  EDITION. 


"  WniTTEN  in  a  very  lively  style,  and  has  throughout  a  smack  of  dry 
humour  and  satiric  reflection  which  shows  the  writer  to  be  a  keen  observer  of 
men  and  things  .  .  .  YTe  hope  that  many  will  I'ead  it,  and  find  in  it  the  same 
amusement  as  ourselves.** — Times, 

"  If  any  of  our  readers  think  of  scraping  an  acquaintance  with  Norway,  let 
them  read  this  book.  .  .  .  The  engravings,  from  the  hand  of  Mr.  Eaward 
"Whymper,  are  excellent.  .  .  .  The  gipsies,  always  an  interesting  study, 
become  doubly  interesting,  when  we  are,  as  in  these  pages,  introduced  to 
them  in  their  daily  walk  and  conversation." — Examiner, 

"Mr.  Smith  is  so  frank  with  us  that  we  cannot  help  liking  him,  and  his 
perfect  frankness,  with  his  fondness  for  detailed  description,  gives  an  in- 
dividuality to  tiie  other  members  of  his  party  which  makes  us  follow  their 
foitunes  with  a  certain  interest  ....  He  seems  blessed  with  a  bright 
nature  and  easy  temper,  and  a  knack  of  making  the  veiy  best  of  everything. 
.  .  .  The  sketches  with  which  its  pages  are  profusely  illustrated  are  all  life- 
like, and  many  of  them  extremely  spirited." — Saturday  Review, 

*'  Abounds  in  curious  and  amusing  anecdotes  of  the  life,  habits,  and  traits 
of  character  of  the  wandering  Bohemians.  ...  In  addition  to  these  details, 
we  have  a  few  particulars  of  the  Norwegians  themselves,  together  with  some 
striking  descriptions  of  Nor^vegian  scenery.  .  .  .  The  book  contains  some 
very  well  executed  engravings  of  Norwegian  villages  and  landscapes." — Daily 
News, 

"  The  work  is  copiously  illustrated,  not  merely  in  name  but  in  fact,  and 
there  will  be  few  who  will  not  peruse  it  with  pleasure." — Standard, 

**  Much  may  be  gathered  from  the  volume  as  to  the  country  traversed  and 
its  people.  .  .  .  The  illustrations  and  route-map  are  excellent.*'— (?ra^Aic. 

**  We  have  read  the  book  with  considerable  interest,  as  very  lively  and 
amusing  journals  of  travellers.  .  .  .  The  sketches,  which  are  by  Mr. 
Whymper,  are  exceedingly  charming,  and  serve  greatly  to  enhance  the  value 
of  the  book.'* — Vanity  Fair, 

"  The  wild  scenery  and  wilder  people  to  whom  the  reader  is  introduced,  and 
the  easy  unafifected  manner  in  wnicn  the  narrative  is  told,  combine  to  make 
the  book  a  thoroughly  pleasant  one." — Echo, 


,,,.-»   •;»;.vx  AND 
I         U  L 


CARL  XV. 

KINO  OF   KORWAV   AND   BWEl 
OBUT   18  SEPT.    1872. 


J 


^     i  ■ 


.\     » 


TENT  LIFE 


WITH 


ENGLISH   GIPSIES  IN  NORWAY. 


BY 


HUBERT   SMITH, 

BKR    OF    TVS    BiraLISH   ALPIVI  CLUB ;   ROBSKB  TURIST    rORKSTHa  ; 
▲H1>    WmUbOW    OF    turn   historical  BOOIBtf   or   QEBAT   BEITAIH. 


WITH 


FIVE  PULL-rAOB  ENGRAVINQ^  THIRTY-ONB  SMALLER  ILLUSTRA^ 
TIONS^   JLNJ>  MAP  OP  TBS  COUNTRY,  SHOWING  ROUTES, 


SECOND    EDITION. 


Henry  S.  King  &  Co., 

gg      Ck>»^^^^^»  &  IB,  Paternoster  Row,  London. 

1874. 


THE  KEW  YORK 
rUnilC  LIBRARY 

129415B 

ASTOR.   I.rNOX  AND 

TILDkJN  FOIMMTIONS 

R  Itfil  L 


[The  Riyht  of  Trantlaiion  is  reserved  by  the  Author.] 


^ 


r 


9t      mv 

^H  ^^W  ^^^&B    A-^^k^  ^^B^A^  A^^^k^M 

§ti  sBittxiotxuxti. 


DEDICATED 

AS  A  SINCERE  TRTBUTE 

TO 
HIS  LATE  MOST  OBACIOUS  MAJBSTT 

CARL  XV. 

BY 

THE  KIND  AND  SPECIAL  PERMISSION  OF  HIS 
PRESENT  MOST  GRACIOUS  MAJE8TT 

OSCAR  II. 

KINO  OF  NORWAT  AND  SWEDEN. 


'^r^ 


PKEFACE. 


Wb  a^w^oke  one  morning ;  our  gipsies  were  gone ; 
OTir  camp  ^w^as  gone ;  no  light  shining  through  as  we 
lay  in  our  tent.  No  freshness  of  the  morning  air ; 
no  wafted  perfume  of  fragrant  wild  flowers ;  no  music 
of  the  ^waterfall  in  the  glen  below.  We  were  left  to 
pursue  the  pathway  of  our  journey  alone. 

Yet  our  notes  de  voyage  remained  to  us.  Impres- 
sions caught  on  the  wayside  of  travel — written  by 
the  light  of  actual  circumstance  —  we  give  them  to 
our  readers.     I^ey  are  a  true  episode  in  a  life. 

THE  AUTHOR. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGI 

IsTRODUcnoN xxi 

CHAPTER   I. 

Norway — Oar  gipsy  tent — Tent  fittings — Cooking  apparatus — ^Com- 
miaBariat—Gipsies'  tent— Bagage  de  luxe— Weight  of  baggage — 
Transit — Donkeys— Our  party — Esmeralda         ....         1 

CHAPTER   II. 

Gipsy  equipment— Norwegian  gipaies — ProBSten  Eilert  Sundt — The 
Hull  steamer — ^The  tourist's  friend — Our  gipsy  song       .  11 

CHAPTER    III. 

A  friend's  misgiving — Dark  forebodings— A  sleepless  night — The 
railway  station — The  Albion — A  philosopher — The  street  boy 
— Distinguished  travellers 19 

CHAPTER   IV. 

England's  farewell — Summer  tourists — The  chevalier — Seafaring — A 
gipsy  reception — Change  of  plans — ^Norwegian  pilot — ^The  Bir- 
mingham bagman — Inducement  to  authorship— Strange  wills— 
A  sailor's  philosophy— Icelandic  language — ^Prognostications       .      26 

CHAPTER   V. 

Aieaman's  adventures— The  unfortunate  tourist — An  apt  quotation — 
Freemasonry — Christiansand — Past  recollections — The  Runic 
•tone — Overpayment — Two  salmon  fishermen — A  traveller's 
cariosity — Norwegian  snakes — Scenery — We  are  one — Golden 
opinions 36 


PA< 


5 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    VI. 

Marinei's  life — ^The  evasive  answer — A  true  presentiment — ^The  King 
of  Norway  and  Sweden — ^The  beautiful  fjord — (^ipsy  music — ^A 
custom-bouse  difficulty — Another  Freemason — Appropriate  verses 
Christiania — Horse  money — 17,  Store  Strandgade 

CHAPTER    VII. 

The  Victoria  Hotel — The  Gipsies*  friend — The  passe-partout — ^Proesten 
Eilert  Sundt — The  Christiania  railway — Our  donkeys  appreciated 
— Gipsy  spirit — The  "  tolk  " — Norwegian  money — Linguistic  dif- 
ficulties—  Gipsy  authors  —  Gipsy  numerals — Departure  from 
Christiania 

CHAPTER   VIII. 

A  Norwegian  officer — ^Norwegian  emigration— Eidsvold — The  Skyd- 
skiftet — Quiet  retreat — Happy  hours —Baiersk  5l — Esmeralda's 
toilette — ^The  transformation — Curious  address-^New  acquaint- 
ance— Noah's  engagement — Noah's  conquest — An  ungrateful 
visitor — ^A  reluctant  parting & 

CHAPTER    IX. 

Moderate  bill — Provisions  lost — ^We  meet  again — Gipsies  in  advance— 
Left  alone — A  welcome  telegram — Norwegian  bath  room — 
Singular  paintings — Once  more  farewell — The  telegraph  clerk — 
The  Mj()6en  Lake — The  Dronningen — Ruined  cathedral — Utili- 
tarianism— Lillehammer — Once  more  in  camp  .         .    ,      7t 

CHAPTER   X. 

Our  first  camp— Camp  visitors — Gipsy  music — Foreign  tableau — 
Curious  observations — Preparations  for  departure — Early  start — 
Laing's  suggestions — The  Gudbransdalen — The  Hunnefos — The 
Australian  meat — Camp  rules — The  pair  of  gloves — Sudden         , 
Shadows — Our  talisman — New  friends 8( 

CHAPTER   XI. 

Night  alarm — The  Pufu  Rawnee— Donkeys  admired — ^Norwegian 
ponies — Our  gipsy  life — Norwegian  flowers — ^Wild  forest — The 
pipe  of  tobacco— Pictures  of  imagination — The  crippled  man — 
Camp  near  Holmen — ^Noah's  self-denial — Wet  night — Peasant 
girls'  serenade — Zachariah's  gaiety — ^Lovely  nature — ^Norwegian 
newspaper — The  mystery  explained — ^Frokost  spoilt        .        .    .    10 


i 


CONTBHTS.  xi 


CHAPTER   XIL 


PAQB 


I'jicc^fal  fishing — A  militaiy  officer — ^The  denUer  reuort^Oui 
^psy  reeepiLon — Interrupted  toilette — Fete  champ^ire— Dancing 
o&  the  greensward — ^Tincture  of  cedar — ^The  disappointment^ 
The  Losna  Yand — ^Tbe  kettle  prop  lost— Peasant  children— 
Inteiesting  discnssiona — Writing  under  difiicaities— The  kindly 
heiit 118 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

f  ettitvening — ^Vodvang — Onr  Rttasian  lamp — Swedish  yinton^All 
well— Our  hobbinengree — ^The  child  of  nature — Guitar  songs — 
The  Tillage  bean — Merles  gone — ^The  musketos'  victoiy — More 
aia — Scotch  traveller — Timber  floaters — Gipsies — Enraged 
Englishman — ^The  frightened  skydskarl — Gipsies'  endoiance — 
The  listari  commotion — Listad  scenery 129 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

A  goTgio— Comfortable  bondegaarda — More  speile — ^The  lost  key — 
Den  Asen  tonjonrs — ^Vegetable  sabstitnte— The  goodlo  discussion 
—Wives'  utility — Friendly  peasants — ^Norwegian  waltz — Gipsy 
chaff— The  dark  woman — Anxious  querists — Early  visitors — 
Timid  woman — Qipsiee  appreciated — ^The  charming  post-mistress 
— ^The  mansion  near  Harpe  Brt5 145 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Tb*  velocipede  —  Roadside  halt  —  Lovely  scenery — Disappointed 
audience — The  little  gipsy — The  lost  pocket — The  search — 
Gipsy  lamentation — ^Amused  peasant  girls— Norwegian  honesty 
The  pocket  found — ^A  noble  heart — Pleasant  voyageurs — Patrins 
— StorklevBtad — Tambourine  lost — Norwegian  honesty — Ec- 
coitric  visits — Interrogatory — The  captain — The  interview— The 
viUsge  magnate — Meget  godt— Esmeralda  in  camp — The  last 
visit— The  moorland  maiden 153 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Cjlcaiel  Sinclair — Qvam  church — Death  of   Sinclair — Monsieur  le 
Capitaine — The  Highflyer— The  Hedals — Romantic  legend — 
Antique  mansion — ^The  Kringelen — Kind  reception — Warm  wel- 
oane  —  Tbe    broken  tent-pole  —  The  reindeer   hunter  —  The 
Sudane  Fjelde — Gipsy-looking  woman — ^More  fish — ^Chiromancy 
Esmeralda's  fortune— The  handsome  captain — His  sporting  ad- 
venture— ^Esmeralda's  gift — Our  soirde  dansante — Gipsies'  glee    .     i74 


xii  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


PA 


Qipsies'  affection — Laurgaard  adieu — Beautiful  gorgea — Onward  ever 
— Esmeralda's  Irish  song— Dovre — Friendly  travellers — The 
Landhandelri — The  Herr  Tofte — King's  visit — Our  night  camp 
—  Night  disturbance  —  Kindness  to  animals  —  Our  beautilul 
bouquet — Snehsetten  Fjeld — Dombaas — Comfortable  situation — 
Wild  scenery — Opportune  visit — Illusory  hope  .        .         .         .15: 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

The  new  tent  pole — What  is  indigestion  ? — Feasants  at  camp — A  new 
friend — Holaker  station — Norwegian  honesty — Loesje  Vand — 
The  tetteramengry — ^An  unsolved  mystery — The  gipsy  collapse 
— Qood  advice — Interest  in  donkeys— A  moimtain  district — No 
church  bells — The  boy's  questions — The  KjOlen  Fjeldene  .         .     20 

CHAPTER.  XIX. 

Esmeralda  at  the  lake—Our  cadeau — The  visitors — Disappointment 
— ^An  Adonis — The  silent  visit — The  old  mill — ^A  Norwegian  fox 
The  Puru  Rawnee's  fall — The  forest  scene — Zachariah's  torment 
— Under  discipline — Music  in  the  forest — Distant  admirers — 
The  English  hunter's  gift — Our  gipsies  fishing — ^The  militia 
camp— Silent  visitor — Ornamental  fladbrod— A  forest  concert     .     212 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Noah  unwell — The  tine — New  scenes — The  leper — Hasty  departure 
— Lesjevoerks  Vand — Well  met — Agreeable  wanderers — Specialty 
of  travel— Delicious  trout — Lake  scenery — Norwegian  postman 
— Night  visitor — More  tourists — Molmen  church        .  .     227 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

The  Rauma— A  lofty  climb— More  rain — The  forest  walk— Tent  life 
— Peasant  ffite — Norwegian  dancing — Zachariah's  ride — -The 
wood  carvings— A  psalmodion — Stueflaaten — The  Romsdal — 
Magnificent  scenery — English  spoken 237 

f 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Dontind — Ormein — Mountain  road — Our  bivouac — Delighted 
visitor — The  water  elf— Excited  gipsies — T«ge  en  Stol — Nor- 
Vregian  girls — Sunday  on  the  Rauma — Carriole  travelling — 
Coming  to  grief—"  Spille  "  a  little  —Esmeralda's  birthday— The 


CONTENTS.  xiii 

PAGI 

Norwegian   climate— The  Sjiriaglnft— Uncomfortable  bed— The 
lageant 246 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Ssaal  peaaant — Caacadea — The  leaning-stone— The  flerious  peasant 
— Zanhariah  ill — No  yentilation — The  Magician's  Peaks — The 
Mangehoe— '^Ramolous'' — Romantic  valley — ^Agreeable  Tisitore 
—The  serenade — ^Futaie  route — Hoigheim — ^Rip  van  Winkle     .    261 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

T^  invalid — Kestiv^e  donkeys — Piva  —  Aak — VeblungsnoM— The 
NoTwegiaii  fanner — ^The  grassy  knoll — A  Norwegian  town  —The 
Qoid*8  sbore — The  Veblmigsnces'  baths — Herr  Solbeig — Homme 
galant— Musical  conversazione — Gipsy  music      ....    273 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Fiiithasea — Zachariab's  trouble— Esmeralda's  photograph — ^The  kiod 
—Price  of  meat — ^The  yachtsmen — The  three  peaks — The  spirit- 
world —  Frost-bites — Ultima  Thule — Esmeralda  galvanised— 
The  5^Td — Heen  Kirke — Parelius — Eider  ducks — Beautiful 
bouquets 285 

CHAPTER  XXVL 

Out  guide — ^To  the  mountains — Mystic  light — ^The  photographs — The 
"daymoTe"  yacht — ^Norw^ian  gipsies — Singular  race- Occu- 
pations— Gipsy  burials — Romantic  love — Predestination — ^The 
bondegaaid — ^The  high  demand — Esmeralda's  souvenir        .  297 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Adieu,  Aak  —  Romsdalshom  —  Troldtindeme  —  Fladmark  —  Young 
Norwegian  ladies — Our  fair  visitors — A  night  scene — Morning 
meal — Exhausted  peasants — Esmeralda's  compliment — A  gipsy 
cuiedne — How  gipsies  sleep — Our  guide  arrives — The  invisible 
bather — The  race — The  river  Grdna 307 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

BoUnising — !Esmeralda  lost — ^Found  again — The  Eagle — Mountain 
difficulties — Mountain  bivouac — Esmeralda  ill — Ole's  bed — 
Hotel  bills — Rough  route — Donkeys  in  snow— The  Puru  Rawnee 
down — The  Ny  ecBter— Gipsy  discussion — The  Englishman's 
bouse — Hospitality— Norwegian  names— Fillingj»h6 — Large  lake    319 


xiv  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEE  XXIX. 


PAOK 


The  peasants'  wood — Skeaker — Our  fair>^  visitor  ^Esmeralda's  indig- 
nation—  The  gipsy  hornpipe — The  fate  of  Ezekiel  —  Feeble 
advocacy— The  Rankny  rackly— The  Otta  Vand  .        .        .     332 

CHAPTEE  XXX. 

The  wasps'  nest — Lorn — Kind  friends — Songs  of  Bjomsen — The 
Proesten's  ministration — The  repulsed  student — Beautiful  valley 
— The  two  artists — The  BoeverElven — Rodsheim— The  ravine — 
The  lost  stardy — Ascent  of  Qaldh5piggen — The  highest  moun- 
tain in  Norway — The  night  ascent — The  dome  of  snow — The 
smuise 340 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

The  reindeer's  fate — Desolate  scene — Several  ascents — The  frightened 
peasants — ^A  coat  lost-- Esmeralda's  views — Absent  treasures — 
Ole  re-engaged — A  new  kettle  prop— The  handsome  artist — Com- 
fortable station— Adieu,  Rttdsheim — Our  excellent  guide — Cross- 
ing the  bridge— Zachariah's  escape 352 

CHAPTER  XXXIL 

The  Elv  SoBter — ^A  mountaineer — ^The  Ytterdal  Soeter — ^To  make  gr5d 
— The  grod  stick — ^Evening  concert — ^A  wild  night — The  water- 
fall— Mountain  glaciers — The  Lera  Elv — Camp  by  a  glacier — 
Nomadic  happiness — ^A  gipsy  maelstrom — Insect  life  .        .        .    363 

CHAPTER  XXXIIL 

The  Virgin  Peak — ^Esmeralda  in  the  Lera — A  dripping  Nereid — 
Heavy  clouds — The  Church  Mountain — ^Wild  reindeer — ^Where's 
the  tea? — Singular  glacier — Valley  of  red  sandstone — The 
Hunter's  Cave— The  Utladal  Stol— The  Mumpley  Valley— Fl5ds- 
grOd — A  mountain  st5l — ^A  rough  path — ^The  Puru  Rawnee's 
escape — ^The  narrow  bridge 374 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

A  difficult  crossing— Again  en  route — Sk5gadal  Soeter — Sceter  accom- 
modation— Splendid  scenery — The  Skogadals  Elv — The  mys- 
terious bone — Mountain  exploration — The  pack  horses — A 
slippery  floor — Music  in  the  Sceter — ^FlcBskedal  Stol— The  M5rk 
Fofr— Magnificent  fall — The  cliff's  edge — The  iris — All  pay  and 
no  comfort — ^A  reindeer  shot  —The  deserted  farm — A  mountain 
shadow 389 


CoyTENTH.  XV 


CHAPTER  yXXV. 


PAOI 


Tht.  Meisgiie — We  ciofis  a  river — ^The  slippery  rock — ^An  active  guide 
— The  earner's  aid — ^The  lame  hoRse — Melkedalsdndeme — The 
stony  way — ^The  Nedrevand — Ole's  night  quarters — ^The  lake  hy 
moonlight — ^Early  rising — Eisbod  on  the  Bygdin  Lake — The 
poet's  house — Vinje,  the  poet — ^The  poetical  mortgage — Pleasant 
acquaintance — Old  Norwegian  poetry — The  rtindt-er  hunter — 
Esmeralda  condoned ...    4(4 

CHAPTER  XXXVl, 

Lake  Tyen— The  Tourist  Club  chMet  -Lortwick  Socter— Lake  drift- 
wood— A  cold  morning — A  cheap  meal — Thunder  in  the  air — 
Sunshine  again — The  separation — The  gallant  Ole  farewell— To 
Christiania — Energy  always — Push  on — The  Bergen  road — Thi* 
violimst — One  dollar  more — Picturesque  scene    ....    42i> 

CHAPTER  XXXVIL 

Carap  on  Lille  Mjoeen — The  Skjyri  Fjeld — An  acquaintance  from 
Eiaibod — Camp  rules  confirmed — Our  gipsy  Noah  —  English 
spoken — Singular  stone — Oiloe  station — Our  friend  from  ELsIxkI 
—Artist  souvenirs — Zachariah's  sport — Fast  travelling — Harve^t 
time — Secluded  camp— Able  pleading — ^The  Stee  Station — 
Obliging  hostess — ^Tether  rope  lost— The  kindly  welcome — 
An  Englishman's  wish — An  open-air  concert — Esmeralda's 
flowers— Adieu,  but  remembered—  A  mid-day  rest       .        .  43.3 

CHAPTER  XXXYIIL 

An  Rngliah  fisherman— The  haunted  mill — ^The  tourist's  purchase — 
Noah's  good  fortune— The  Strand  Yioid — A  woman's  curiosity — 
The  heroine  of  our  book— A  Norwegian  seaman — The  mistaken 
mansion — ^The  Aurdal  church — Frydenlund  Station — A  roadside 
halt — ^The  appreciated  gift — ^The  severe  young  lady — The  kind- 
hearted  peasant — Krcemmermoen — Impulse  and  reason       .        .    441) 

CHAPTER  XXXIX 

The  gipsy  signal — Our  Australian  meat — The  fair  poetess— Our 
friend  from  Eisbod  ill — The  Rye's  unwell — The  Lehnsmoend  of 
Bang — ^Thc  ferryman  and  son — We  cross  to  Beina — Tatersprog 
— A  kind  family — Storsveen  Station — Secluded  valley — A 
tourist  lels  us — Esmeralda's  adventure — The  peasant  women's 
song — Sorum  Station — Tents  pitched  by  a  lagoon — Nces — No 
^    hoTseboat — Impromptu  horseboat — How  we  got  across — A  river 


scene 


4G0 


xvi  CONTENTIS. 


CHAPTER  XL. 


PAGE 


We  leave  the  Beina — The  Lille  pige — Any  port  in  a  storm — The 
fairies'  visit — The  Spirilen — Ytre  Aadalen  Val — Large  bonde- 
gaard — Heen  woodland  camp — Evening  visitors — The  Hbnefos 
— Intelligent  postmaster — Norderhoug  church — Halt  near  Vik 
— The  gipsies'  political  philosophy — Noah  and  the  philanthropist 
Steens  Fjord — The  Krogkleven— Beautiful  gorge — Camp  near 
the  King's  View 477 

CHAPTER  XLL 

Summer  waning — Norwegian  scenery — Splendid  views — The  cross 
fire — Sorte  Dod— Romantic  camp — Mandy'sa  Rye — The  tourist's 
dog — The  Hobbenengree's  surprise— The  Baron  at  Boerums  Verk 
— Snake  killed  near  our  tent — Our  last  night  in  camp — Adieu, 
camp  life 490 

CHAPTER  XLII. 

Chrietiania— Generous  oflfer — Advice  we  do  not  take — The  paper- 
viken  fishermen — Christophersen's — Norway,  farewell — Donkeys' 
accommodation — ^Want  of  feeling — Our  steward — The  gipsies' 
friends — The  Spanish  courier — The  literary  American — The 
gipsies'  mal  de  mer — The  donkeys  in  a  smoke  room — The  lost 
necklace — England's  shore — To  our  readers         ....     500 

CHAPTER  XLIIL 

Alluring  promises — Compliment  to  Englishmen — True  sketches  of 
gipsy  life — ^The  gipsies'  origin— Yet  a  mystery — Esmeralda — 
Noah  and  Zachariah — Before  the  curtain— The  end     .  .511 


Appendix     1 517 

II 627 

„         III 529 

IV 532 

V 538 


LIST  OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


t  • 


/  Tbe  engrmYingB  are  bj  Bdward  Whymper,  author  of  "Scnmblas  amongit 
t]ie  Alps,"  and  have  been  taken  from  gketches  made  hj  the  author  dnring 
his  vanderingB  in  Norway,  or  from  photographs  obtained  hy  him  specially 
for  this  work. 

1.  His  late  Most  Gracious  Majesty  Carl  XV.,  King  of  Norway  and 

Sweden {Full  pa^e,  facing  Title) 

2.  Breaking  np  Camp  ;  Gipsy  pocket,  and  loaded  donkey        .  u 

3.  The  gipsies'  Norwegian  song — ornamental  bordure  .        .17  and  18 

4.  The  Chevalier 28 

^  We  are  one                         44 

&  Proesten  Eilert  Sandt 56 

7.  Norwegiaji  fence       .         . 78 

8.  Norwegian  bath-room 80 

9.  Jeg  maa  gaae  til  bnnden,  I  must  go  to  the  bottom    .  .    .      81 

0.  Der  gaae  er  dampen.  There  goes  the  steamer         ....  82 

1.  Peasant  girls' serenade 112 

2.  Ornamental  fladbrOd 225 

X  Primitive  ^reighing  machine 244 

4.  Camp  at  Lieaning  Stone,  Siriaglns 262 

5.  Troldtindemey  Magidana'  or  Witches'  Peaks     {Full  page,  facing)    271 

6.  The  English  gipsies'  camp  at  Veblungsnces  . 

7.  Yeblongsnoes  and  church  .... 

8.  The  Romsdalshom 

9.  "  Now  look  at  these  chokas  !  !  !" 

20.  Gr3d  stick,  spoon,  and  bowl,  Leirdalen 

21.  Norwegian  birchwood  crupper 

22.  Kirken  (Church  Mountain),  from  Gravdal    . 


{Ditto) 

287 

{Ditto) 

299 

{Ditto) 

307 

•                • 

.     356 

•                • 

.     367 

•                • 

.     372 

•                • 

.     377 

xviii  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

2a  The  ice  cliff,  Storbeatind  Glacier ,381 

24.  Utladal  Stol,  Mumply  Valley 385 

25.  Lusehaug  Bro,  Utladal :  restive  donkeys 390 

26.  View  of  Melkedalstind  from  the  Valley  of  SkGgadal,  Skogadals  Ely  406 

27.  Melkedals  Nedre  Vand,  with  gipsy  camp  on  the  lake  shore      .    .  411 

28.  Norwegian  Tourist  Club  ChcQet,  Tvindehougen,  Lake  Tyen         .  421 

29.  The  Norwegian  violin,  Skogstad 431 

30.  Norwegian  maiden's  belt,  Oiloe 439 

31.  Esmeralda 499 

32.  The  last  camp  of  the  English  gipsies  in  Norway,  Christiania  Fjord  504 

33.  Ole  Halvorsen  of  ROdsheim,  our  guide 514 

34.  Last  group.    Farewell 515 

35.  The  author's  final  vignette 516 


INTRODUCTION. 


"  NqIIus  doloT  est  qaem  non  longmqnitM  temporia  munut^  ic  moUiat'* 
There  is  no  grief  time  does  not  leaaen  and  loften. 

Since  the  succeeding  pages  were  written,  Norway 
and  Sweden  liave  mourned  the  death  of  their  King, 
Carl  XV.,  at  Malmoe,  on  the  18th  September,  1872. 

The  dedication  of  this  work  is,  therefore,  with  the 
kind  and  special  permission  of  his  present  Majesty, 
King  Oscar  II.,  inscribed  "In  Memoriam/'  Thus  the 
work  opens  to  the  reader  with  a  shadow  of  melancholy  ; 
for,  in  our  experience,  few  kings  have  had  the  love 
and  affection  of  their  subjects  in  a  greater  degree. 

One  memorable  event  marked  the  close  of  his  late 
Majesty's  reign,  as  if  to  illumine  the  last  sands  of  the 
hour-glass  of  his  life — the  millennial  period  of  the 
imity  of  Norway  as  one  kingdom  was  accomplished  on 
the  19th  July,  1872. 

A  thousand  years  had  elapsed  since  Harald  Haar- 
fager  (the  Fair  Hair)  gained  the  battle  of  Hafs^ord, 
and  united  Norway  under  one  crown.* 

♦  During  this  reign,  after  the  battle  of  HafsQord,  the  great  viking 
*"  Rolf  Ganger,"  flon  of  Earl  Rognvald,  having  offended  King  Harald,  was 
Wished  from  Norway,  and,  in  company  with  many  other  Northmen, 
sailed  with  a  fleet  of  vessels  to  the  Hebrides,  and  from  thence  to  Nor- 
mandy, where  the  Northmen,  about  the  year  896,  obtained  possession  of 
Bouen,  and  Rolf  Ganger,  afterwards  embracing  Christianity,  became  Duke 
of  Normandy. — Histoire  de  la  ConqtUte  de  VAngleterre  par  les  Normans, 
par  Augusiin  Thierry,  vol.  i.  p.  114. 


XX  INTRODUCTION. 

At  Hafsfjord,  by  a  strange  coincidence,  King  Harald 
Haarfager,  having  reigned,  it  is  said,  from  about  861 
to  931,  was  buried,  according  to  the  ancient  sagas,  near 
the  town  of  Haugesund,  not  far  from  the  scene  of  his 
memorable  victory,  the  last  of  a  series  of  conquests 
which  gave  to  Norway  one  king. 

The  battle  of  Hafsfjord  also  accomplished  King 
Harald's  vow,  and  gave  to  him  the  hand  of  Gyda, 
the  handsome  daughter  of  Eric,  King  of  Hordaland, 
who,  in  answer  to  his  proposals,  had  said,  she  would 
never  throw  herself  away,  even  to*  take  a  king  for  a 
husband,  who  had  only  a  few  districts  to  rule  over.* 

The  obelisk  of  granite,  erected  near  Haugesund,  on 
the  grave  of  Harald  Haarfager,  to  commemorate  the 
event,  is  seventy  feet  high.  Surrounding  its  base, 
twenty-one  pillars,  eight  feet  high,  are  inscribed  with 
the  names  of  the  twenty-one  petty  kingdoms,  into 
which  ancient  Norway  was  formerly  divided.  Bronzed 
reliefs  on  the  pedestal  record  that  Harald  Haarfager 
is  buried  beneath,  and  that  the  monument  was  erected 
one  thousand  years  after  he  had  consolidated  Norway 
into  one  kingdom. 

At  a  grand  National  Jubilee  Festival,  at  Haugesund, 
on  the  19th  July,  1872,  his  present  Majesty  the  King 
of  Norway  and  Sweden,f  then  Prince  Oscar,  with  a 
large  assemblage  of  the  people  of  Norway,  inaugurated 
the  monument. 

•  From  the  Heimskringla,  or  Chronicle  of  the  Kings  of  Norway,  trans- 
lated from  the  Icelandic  of  '*  Snorro  Sturleson,"  hy  Samuel  Laing. 

t  The  king  ascends  the  throne  as  King  of  "  Sweden,  the  Qoths  and 
Vandals,  and  Norway  ;"  but  in  all  Acts  specially  relating  to  Norway,  that 
country  is  entitled  to  be  named  first,  and  this  work  being  entirely  one 
of  Norwegian  travel,  we  have  for  that  reason  given  Norway  precedence  in 
our  Dedication. 


INTRODUCTION.  xxi 

The  day  ^was  fine,  and  the  associations  of  a  thousand 
vars  carried  the  mind  back  through  the  far  distance 
t'f  time  to  the  battle  of  Hafsfjord,  when,  to  apply  the 
words  of  •*  Sigvat  the  Scald," — 

Loud  wag  the  battle-fltorm  there. 
When  the  King's  banner  flamed  in  air, 
niie  Ring  beneath  his  banner  stands, 
And  the  battle  he  commands. 

His  late  Majesty  was  also  a  poet  and  an  artist. 
Two  interesting  volumes  of  the  late  King's  poems, 
lititled  "  En  Samling  Dikter  "  (a  collection  of  poems), 
ad  **SniaiTe  Dikter"  (short  poems)  are  the  scintilla- 
ii'»n8  of  a  bright  and  imaginative  mind — "  Till  Sverige  " 
Jo  Sweden),  "  Borgruinen  "  (the  Castle  Ruins),  "  Fjer- 
ran ''  (Afar),  "  Ensamheten "  (solitude),  "  Trosbek- 
kanelse"  (Confession  of  Faith),  "I  drommen''  (I  Dream), 
"Hvarbor  Friden"*  (Where  dwelleth  Peace),  "Kalian" 
(The  Fountain),  "  Ziguenerskan  "  (The  Gipsy  Girl),  with 
'jther  poems  form  the  Innehal,  or  contents  of  the 
''  Smarre  Dikter/'  The  larger  volume — "  En  Samling 
Dikter  "—includes  "  Heidi  Gylfes  Dotter  "  (Heidi  Gylfe's 
Daughter),  "En  Viking  Gasaga"  (A  Viking  Saga)* 
'•Hafsfrun"  (The  Mermaid),  "Tre  Natter"  (Three 
Nights),  and  several  other  poems. 

The  fall-paged  portrait  of  his  late  Majesty  Carl  XV. 
is  an  excellent  likeness.     He  was  cast  in  Nature  s  most 

♦  Laing  defines  a  Viking  and  a  Sea-king  thus  : — a  sea-king,  one  connected 

» ith  a  royal  race — either  of  the  smaU  kings  of  the  country  or  of  the 

Haarfager  family,  and  who  by  right  received  the  title  of  king  as  soon  as 

he  took  command  of  men,  although  only  a  ship's  crew,  without  having  any 

liiid  or  kingdom.     The  Viking  is  a  term  not  connected  with  the  word 

I'tugr  or  king  :  the  vikings  were  merely  pirates — alternately  peasants  and 

pirates— -deriving  the  name  viking  from  viks,  wicks  or  inlets  on  the  coast, 

where  they  harboured  their  long  ships  or  rowing-galleys.    Laing  says  every 

5«a-kinff  was  a  vikingj  ^u*  every  viking  was  not  a  sea-king. 


xxii  INTRODUCTION. 

perfect  mould;  whilst  his  mind  had  true  greatness  and 
noble-hearted  chivalry. 

It  is  beautifully  engraved  by  the  author  of  "  Scrambles 
Amongst  the  Alps;''  indeed,  this  and  the  engravings 
illustrating  this  work,  which  have  all  been  taken  from 
original  sketches  of  the  author,  or  photographs  obtained 
specially  for  the  work,  are  by  Mr.  Edward  Whymper,* 
to  whom  the  author  is  much  indebted  for  his  prompt 
attention,  when  a  very  short  space  of  time  could  only 
be  allowed  for  their  completion. 

An  additional  interest  will  also  be  felt  by  the  reader 
in  knowing  that  the  work  is  true,  even  to  the  names  of 
the  gipsies. 

So  must  close  our  Introduction;  and,  as  we  look 
back  to  our  tented  wanderings,  they  seem  as  a  bright 
summer's  day,  whose  sun,  setting  on  the  horizon  of  our 
fate,  reflects  itself,  though  with  imperfect  gleams,  within 
this  book,  whilst  the  day  is  gone  for  ever ! 

THE  AUTHOR. 

7th  May,  1873. 


•  An  interesting  article,  by  Mr.  Whymper,  with  frontispiece,  showing  a 
"Fragment  of  the  Jakobshaven  Ice  Stream,"  appeared  in  the  "Alpine 
Journal"  of  May,  1870.  Another  article,  the  result  of  recent  exploration, 
entitled  "  Some  Notes  on  Greenland  and  the  Qreenlanders,"  with  a  frontis- 
piece, from  Mr.  Whymper's  pen,  appeared  in  the  "  Alpine  Journal "  of 
this  month. 


} 


THE    GIPSY  GIRL. 


Pajssikq,  I  saw  her  as  she  stood  beside 

A  lonely  stream  between  two  barren  wolds ; 

Her  loose  vest  hung  in  rudely-gathered  folds 
On  her  swart  bosoniy  which  in  maiden  pride 
Pillowed  a  string  of  pearls  ;  among  her  hair 

Twined  the  light  blue  bell  and  the  stonecrop  gay  ; 

-And  not  £ir  thence  the  small  encampment  lay. 
Curling  its  wreathed  smoke  into  the  air. 
She  seemed  a  child  oi  some  sun-favoured  clime ; 

So  still,  so  habited  to  warmth  and  rest ; 
And  in  my  wayward  musings  on  past  time, 

^en  my  thought  fills  with  treasured  memories, 
'^^  image  nearest  borders  on  the  blest 
^tions  of  pure  art  that  never  dies. 

Dean  Alpord. 


Pi;;.:u*  iiiuary 


I 


MAP 


Showing  the  Route  aad  Cai 

■ 

of  the 

ENGLISH    GIJ 

througli 


Gipsy  Camps  sere  marke< 
Route 


ENGLISH  MILES 


e 


to 


ZC 

-4— 


JO 


to  so  sc 


TENT  LIFE  WITH  ENGLISH 
GIPSIES  IN  NOEWAY. 


CHAPTER  I. 

"The  hest  books  are  records  of  the  writer^s  own  experiences  of  what  he 
himself  has  seen  or  known,  or — best  of  all— has  done.  The  writing 
then  becomes  naturally  concrete,  perspicuons,  a  mirror  of  the  fact ;  and 
whether  it  be  a  book  for  the  world  and  for  ages,  or  for  nations  and 
generations,  there  is  this  common  to  them  aU,  that  they  are  genuine 
zecords  of  genuine  things,  and  throw  light  on  the  subject." — 
N.  P.  Willis. 

NORWAY — OUR    GIPSY  TENT— TENT    FITTINGS— COOKING    APPARATUS— OOM- 
JflSSARIAT— GIPSIES*  TENT— BAGAGE   DB   LUXE— WEIGHT    OP    BAGGAGE 
. — TRANSIT— DONKEYS— OUR  PARTY— ESMERALDA. 

The  picturesque  and  lovely  scenes  of  Norway  oflfered 
many  inducements  for  our  campaign.  The  peculiar 
advantages  of  tent  life  would  enable  us  to  wander  in  its 
wildest  Dais.  Its  beautiful  Qelds,  ^ords,  and  fosses  could 
be  seen  at  our  ease.  We  might  bivouac  in  the  silent 
forest  J  we  could  sleep  in  its  lonely  glens,  and  wander 
in  its  deepest  recesses,  independent  of  the  chance  accom- 
modation of  the  "  gjoestgiver-gaard,''  or  the  more  doubt- 
ftil  comfort  of  the  mountain  "  soeter.^'  The  result  of  a 
former  visit  had  not  been  without  its  practical  utility, 
and  the  tent  carried  the  day. 

£i  previous  travels  we  had  used  many  kinds  of  tents, 

B 


2  TENT  LIFE   IN  NORWAY. 

including  Mr.  Whymper's  very  useful  Alpine  Tent.  For 
this  campaign  we  had  a  new  one  made,  such  as  gipsies 
use.  All  experience  inclined  us  to  adopt  this  form  of 
tent  as  the  most  comfortable.*  It  was  naade  by  gipsies, 
whom  we  had  often  befriended  in  our  search  after  gipsy 
lore, — and  who  now  no  longer  regarded  us  with  distrust, 
as  belonging  to  the  kairengroes  (house-dwellers).  Wlien 
it  was  completed,  my  people  declared  it  was  the  best  they 
had  ever  seen.  A  stout  back  pole,  with  strong  pUable 
raniers  or  rods,  fitted  into  it,  and  a  cover  made  of  two 
pairs  of  light  gray  blankets,  of  strong  but  fine  texture, 
sewn  together,  with  a  broad  edging  of  scarlet  booking, 
gave  it  an  appearance  which  the  gipsies  declared  to  be 
perfection. 

The  interior  fittings  of  our  tent  were  not  neglected. 
One  of  Edgington's  waterproofs  costing  twenty-five 
shillings,  was  laid  on  the  ground  as  a  substratum.  A 
handsome  carpet,  of  strong  but  light  material  and  warm 
colouring,  was  cut  to  the  size  of  the  tent  as  usually 
pitched,  and  then  neatly  bound  with  scarlet  braid  by  my 
housekeeper,  who  made  nearly  everything  used  for  the 
expedition.  When  the  cai'pet  was  placed  on  the  water- 
proof rug,  it  formed  an  excellent  floor  to  the  tent.  Our 
large  railway-rug,  which  had  been  with  us  all  round  the 
world,  was  still  serviceable.  An  extra  rug  for  aise  if 
necessary,  and  two  air  pillows  covered  with  scarlet 
flannel,  completed  the  bed  accommodation.  A  blue 
partition-curtain,   with   broad  yellow  braid  artistically 


•  Although  we  prefer  our  gipsy  tent  for  convenience  and  comfort,  it 
cannot  be  compared  to  Mr.  Whymper's  Alpine  tent  for  security  of  shelter 
--^'»n  pitched  on  a  camp  ground  of  sterile  rocks  amongst  high  mountain 
exposed  to  strong  gales  of  wind. 


COOKING  AFFARATUa.  3 

elaborated  in  zigzag  pattern,  to  be  suspended  d  volonte 
from  the  tent  raoiers  for  privacy  and  seclusion,  left 
nothing  more  to  be  desired.  We  had  not  yet  sunk  so 
low  in  effeminacy  as  to  use  beds,  though  there  are 
instances  of  gipsies  in  England  who  have  descended  to 
that  melancholy  state. 

It  was  necessaiy  that  our  hcMerie  de  cuisine  should  be  as 
simple  as  possible.  In  the  first  place  we  had  our  kettle 
prop  which  had  done  duty  in  camp  life  in  the  previous 
year.  A  kettle  prop  is  a  stout  bar  of  iron  bent  at  one 
end  so  as  to  have  a  projectmg  portion  for  hanging  the 
kettle  upon  to  boil  water.  The  other  end  of  the  prop  is 
sharpened  so  as  to  make  holes  in  the  ground  to  fix  the 
tent  raniers  or  rods  into.  (The  three  stakes  joined  toge- 
ther at  the  top,  with  a  large  witch's  caldron  suspended 
over  the  fire,  as  seen  in  many  representations  of  gipsy 
life,  have  now  passed  away  with  the  gipsies'  scarlet 
cloaks  once  so  fashionable.)  We  had  our  large  fish  kettle 
for  boiling  anything ;  our  tin  can  for  boiling  and  making 
tea  for  four  persons ;  two  larger  tin  cans  for  boiUng  or 
fetching  milk  or  water,  all  with  lids ;  two  large  zinc 
bowls ;  four  smaller  soup  bowls,  fitting  one  within  the 
other;  a  round  tin  with  lid  to  hold  three  pounds  of 
butter;  a  quart  tin  can  with  handle;  two  sets  of  tin 
pannikins,  four  each  set,  fitting  one  within  the  other ;  * 
eight  pewter  plates ;  seven  knives  and  six  forks ;  eight 
spoons  ;  a  tin  salt  box ;  a  tin  pepper  box  ;  a  sardine  box 

*  The  pannikins  hold  about  a  pint  and  a  half,  and  each  weighs  6  oz. 
They  have  a  smaU  loop  handle  on  each  side^  which  folds  down,  and  is 
coTeied  with  leather,  so  that  the  pannikin  can  be  cairied  vfhen  filled  with 
hot  tea.  This  kind  of  pannikin,  first  suggested  to  ns  by  Mr.  Whymper, 
whose  plan  it  is,  we  prefer  to  any  other  we  have  seen  for  weight,  size,  and 

conyenience. 

B  2 


4  TENT  LIFE   IN  NORWAY. 

opener  ;  a  frying  pan,  with  handle  to  remove ;  a  tin  box 
containing  the  exact  measure  of  tea  for  four  persons. 
This  was  very  useful,  not  only  for  economy,  but  in  wet 
weather, — ^the  box,  being  filled  in  the  tent,  could  be 
carried  in  the  hand, — in  readiness  for  the  boiling  water. 
A  Russian  lamp ;  a  small  axe ;  two  tin  boxes  of  wax 
lucifer  matches,  and  eight  small  cloths  for  cleaning,  com- 
pleted our  service  de  mSnage.  All  the  articles  enumerated ' 
could  be  conveniently  put  into  the  fish-kettle,  except  the 
two  large  cans,  the  two  large  bowls,  the  pewter  plates, 
the  frying-pan,  and  one  or  two  other  articles.  These 
were  all  placed  at  one  end  of  a  bag  called  the  kettle-bag, 
tied  in  the  middle ;  our  bags  of  tea  and  sugar,  &c.,  for 
present  use,  being  placed  at  the  other  end,  ready  to  be 
slung  over  the  donkey  for  transit.* 

Our  commissariat  was  selected  with  a  care  commensu- 
rate to  the  requirements  of  the  expedition  and  of  the  four 
hungry  voyageurs  to  be  fed. 

Our  provisions  were  procured  at  Hudson  Brothers^ 
Ludgate  Hill,  London  (with  whom  we  had  before  had 
dealings),  and  were  all  we  could  desire  for  quality.  Our 
purchase  included  281bs.  of  Australian  meat  (costing  l\ch 
per  lb.) — which  for  the  first  time,  we  ventured,  with  some 
hesitation,  to  take — ^two  hams,  some  bacon,  a  dozen 
boxes  of  sardines,  2  cheeses,  a  number  of  jars  of  Liebig's 


*  We  have  recently  purchased  a  new  and  ingeniously  contrived  "  cooking 
canteen/'  designed  by  Lieutenant  Lecky,  H.M.S.  Asia,  This  canteen  may 
be  inspected,  and  is  for  sale  at  79,  Mark  Lane,  City.  It  weighs  22  lbs., 
and  its  cost  is  two  guineas.  We  however  think  it  more  adapted  for  a 
military  encampment  than  for  an  expedition  like  our  own.  One  large 
light  fish-kettle,  frying  pan,  and  tin  boiling  kettle,  were  amply  sufficient 
for  all  requirements ;  and  after  the  wear  and  tear  of  our  wanderings  in 
Norway,  they  are  stiU  serviceable  and  fit  for  another  expedition. 


GIPSIES'  TENT.  5 

essence  of  meat,  some  tins  of  potted  meats,  2  tins  of 
biscuits, — some  of  which  were  college  biscuits, — rice, 
oat-meal,  pea  flour,  beans,  &c. ;  which,  together  with 
121bs.  of  tea  from  Messrs.  Phillips,  King  William  Street, 
in  small  bags  of  31bs.  each,  were  placed  in  a  large  stout 
"  pocket "  as  far  as  space  would  allow,  and  then  packed 
in  a  wooden  case,  and  forwarded  to  the  care  of  Messrs. 
Wilson  &  Co.,  Hull,  ready  for  the  steamer.  The  weight 
of  the  provisions  when  sent,  was  1501bs.  These  articles, 
with  SOlbs.  of  sugar  in  six  small  bags  of  5lb8.  each, 
which  we  had  before  forwarded  to  Hull,  completed  our 
stock  of  provisions  for  the  expedition. 

The  gipsies  brought  their  own  tent  rods;  we  found 
blankets  for  the  tent  cover.  The  gipsies'  tent  cover  is 
formed  of  two  blankets,  fastened  with  pin  thorns  over 
their  tent  frame  of  raniers  or  rods.  They  had  for  use 
one  of  Edgington's  waterproofs  and  two  double  blankets. 

We  also  took  a  railway  rug  ornamented  with  foxes' 
heads,  which  we  often  used  with  the  aid  of  our  Alpine 
stocks,  as  a  balk  to  keep  off  the  wind,  and  to  close  in  the 
space  between  our  tents  when  we  required  more  room  or 
shelter.  We  had,  besides,  a  very  large  but  exceedmgly 
light  waterproof  sheeting,  purchased  from  Edmiston, 
made  to  loop  over  our  tents,  so  as  to  enlarge  them 
considerably  and.  protect  us  from  heavy  rain.  The 
blanket  covers  of  our  tents  were  not  waterproof;  and 
this  waterproof  sheeting,  which  only  weighed  4t^  lbs., 
was  invaluable.  When  we  were  resting  during  the-  day, 
it  effectually  protected  our  provisions,  baggage,  and  our- 
selves from  the  heavy  showers  of  rain  which  sometimes 
occurred  during  our  wanderings. 

Our  additional  baggage  consisted  of  one  salmon  rod. 


6  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

three  trout  rods,  four  Alpine  stocks,  two  long  ropes  for 
tethering  the  animals,  a  fishing  basket,  a  tin  box  with 
padlock,  a  musical  box,  a  moderate  allowance  of  clothes, 
a  small  tin  of  blacking  with  brushes,  hair  brushes  and 
combs,  soap,  towels,  pocket  mirrors,  writing-case,  maps, 
stout  straps,  books  (guide  books  and  othei's),  fishing 
tackle,  &c.,  two  courier  bags  with  locks,  and  a  plaid 
haversack,  which  contained  a  small  case  of  medicaments 
for  use  when  we  were  beyond  all  chance  of  medical 
advice — ^for,  although  fresh  air  is  peculiarly  health-giving, 
there  were  times  and  seasons  when  we  had  to  officiate  as 
the  "  cushty  drabengro "  (good  doctor)  of  the  party. 
We  had  also  in  this  plaid  bag  a  silver-mounted  glass 
flask  of  imposing  appearance,  which  was  kept  filled  vdth 
Brsendeviin,  to  be  poured,  out  into  a.  thick-set,  solid- 
looking  drinking  glass,  that  had  been  purchased,  once 
upon  a  time,  at  Epernay,  in  France;  it  was  fitted  to 
stand  the  hard  usage  of  this  world,  even  to  receiving 
libations  of  brsendevim  instead  of  champagne.  The 
glass  is  still  unbroken,  and  ready  to  do  duty  in  another 
campaign;  and  when  we  look  at  it,  our  brain  becomes 
puzzled  as  to  the  number  of  bold  Norwegians  whose 
lips  it  has  touched  as  they  quaffed  its  contents  to 
gamle  Norge. 

The  weight  of  baggage  is  given  in  the  following 
divisions : — 

The  kettle  and  articles  packed  into  it  weighed  10^  lbs. ; 
bowls  and  pewter  plates,  packed  separately,  6f  lbs. ;  the 
frying  pan,  3^  lbs. ;  our  boiling  can  for  making  tea  for 
our  party,  four  in  number,  1;^  lbs. ;  our  large  boilmg  can, 
for  a  larger  number  than  four  persons,  weighed  If  lbs. ; 
the  large  iron  kettle-prop,  6  lbs.  6  ozs.,  making  the  total 


WEIGHT  OF    BAGGAGE.  7 

weight  of  cooking  apparatus   and   service  de  minage^ 
30  lbs.  2  ozs. 

The  tent  rods  and  pole  weighed  14^  lbs. ;  the  tent 
blanket,  cover,  and  partition-curtain,  17-|  lbs. ;  large 
waterproof  siphonia  cover,  4^  lbs. ;  small  spade  to  dig 
trenches  round  tent  in  wet  weather,  1  lb.  15  ozs. ; 
total  weight,  38  lbs.  7oz8. 

One  of  Edgington's  waterproof  rugs,  the  tent  carpet, 
two  rugs,  and  two  air-pillows,  weighed,  together,  20  lbs. 
Our  large  tent  and  fittings,  with  cooking  apparatus 
and  sermce  de  menage^  therefore  weighed  88  lbs.  9  ozs. ; 
and  with  books,  fishing-rods,  clothes,  the  provisions,  and 
other  baggage,  made  a  total  of  about  360  lbs.  weight, 
which  allowed  120  lbs.  for  each  donkey  to  carry. 

The  method  of  transit  for  baggage  of  all  kinds,  that 
impediment  to  rapid  movement,  required  careful  conside- 
ration. We  had  360  lbs.  weight  of  baggage  to  carry 
across  the  sea,  to  take  with  us  through  the  valleys  of 
Norway,  to  convey  over  mountains,  and  rugged  paths, 
across  rivers  and  shaky  wooden  bridges.  The  kind  of 
animal  suited  to  our  expedition  had  also  to  be  considered; 
ponies  and  mules  had  their  claims.  Excellent  ponies 
might  be  purchased  in  Norway  upon  our  arrival,  but 
then  we  had  the  risk  of  delay.  If  we  took  mules  they 
were  oftentimes  vicious  and  troublesome.  At  last  w^e 
commissioned  a  gipsy  to  purchase  three  strong  donkeys, 
to  be  specially  selected  for  the  purpose.  It  is  said  in 
one  of  Dickens's  works,  that  no  one  ever  saw  a  dead 
donkey  or  a  dead  postboy — and  this  inspired  additional 
hope  that  the  animals  would  survive  the  journey.  We 
had  no  reason  to  regret  our  choice.  Donkeys  will 
endure  want  of  food  better  than  even  mules  or  horses ; 


8  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

they  are  patient,  quiet,  and  tractable ;  they  soon  tcxke 
to  the  camp,  and  seldom  stray  far.  The  weight  would 
be  about  120  lbs.  each,  decreasing  as  they  progressed  on 
their  journey.  A  strong  donkey  has  been  known  to 
cany  for  a  short  distance,  4  cwt.,  but  this  is  exceptional ; 
200  lbs.  for  a  journey  on  good  roads  they  can  manage 
without  difficulty ;  for  rough  mountain  roads  and  paths, 
this  load  ought  to  be  reduced  to  less  than  100  lbs. 
Donkeys  were  much  valued  in  early  times ;  and  in  New 
South  Wales  they  were  recently  more  expensive  than 
horses.  Fortunately  our  gipsy  was  able  to  procure 
them  at  a  moderate  rate  ;  and  in  a  short  time  I  was  the 
possessor — ^to  use  gipsy  language — of  three  "  cushty 
merles''  (good  donkeys).  They  were  to  travel  with  the 
gipsies'  camp  until  we  were  ready  to  start,  and  so  become 
used  to  camp-life.     Very  good  ones  they  were  :  * 

Content  with  the  thistle  they  tramped  o'er  the  road. 
And  never  repined  at  the  weight  of  the  load.  / 

It  was  necessary  for  the  success  of  the  expedition, 
that  the  party  should  be  composed  of  not  less  than  four ; 
but  one  who  had  before  accompanied  our  wanderings, 
was  unable  to  come.  Our  preparations  were  partly 
made,  and  his  loss  as  a  fellow  compagnon  de  voyage  was 
irreparable.     Skilful  in  designing  and  making  a  tent,  full 

*  "  The  ass  is  an  exceUent  and  sober  little  beast,  far  too  much  despised 
by  us.  He  is  not  only  the  most  enduring,  but  one  of  the  quickest  walkers 
among  cattle,  being  usually  promoted  to  the  leadership  of  a  caravan.  He 
is  nearly  equal  to  the  camel  in  enduring  thirst,  and  thrives  on  the  poorest 
pasture,  suffers  from  few  diseases,  and  is  unscathed  by  African  dist|mper. 
The  long  desert  roads  and  pilgrim  tracts  of  North  Africa  are  largely 
travelled  over  by  means  of  asses." — The  Art  of  Travel,  by  Francis  Galton, 
F.R.Q.S.,  p.  195. 


OUR  PARTY.  9 

of  resource  in  camp  life,  never  without  an  expedient  to 
overcome  a  diflBculty,  a  sketcher  from  nature,  cheerful 
under  all  exposure,  temperate  in  all  his  pleasures,  ever 
ready  with  his  song  and  guitar ;  at  eveningtide,  by  the 
flickering  emters  of  the  camp  fire,  by  the  silent  lake, 
or  in  the  moimtain  cwin^  or  lonely  glen — his  loss  was 
indeed  to  be  regretted.  His  lithe  figure,  and  luxuriant 
raven-black  hair,  shading  in  heavy  tresses  his  ample 
forehead,  jet-black  eyes,  and  thoughtful  countenance 
bronzed  by  exposure,  strongly  resembled  the  true  gipsy 
type.  By  other  gipsies  whom  we  had  chanced  to  meet, 
he  had  been  thought  of  better  gipsy  blood  than  our  own 
gipsy  people. 

Our  right  hand  seemed  gone.  As  we  lounged  into  the 
gipsies'  camp,  there  was  no  sun  to  illumine  our  way 
to  the  north.  The  party  miist  be  made  up  to  four  ;  but 
no  other  friend  would  venture  on  the  exposure  of  a  camp 
Ufe  in  a  foreign  country.  The  romantic  scenery,  the 
novelty  and  charm  of  a  nomadic  life  in  nature's  wildest 
scenes,  completely  failed  to  allure  them  from  their  com- 
fortable homes. 

So  the  party  was  to  be  made  up  to  four.  The  Rye 
was  not  to  go  without  a  sufficient  escort  to  take  care  of 
him.  Tall  Noah  would  pitch  the  tents  and  pack  the 
animals.  Esmeralda,  as  the  forlorn  hope,  would  do  all 
the  cooking,  and  undertake  the  arrangements  of  the  tent, 
which  our  friend  had  beforetime  done  with  our  joint 
assistance.  Zacharia,  the  " boshomengro  "  (violin-player), 
would  again  obtain  w^ater,  and  make  the  fire.  They 
would  each  have  one  animal  under  their  charge.  .With 
this  arrangement  we  were  obliged  to  content  ourselves. 
Esmeralda,  who  was  nearly  sixteen  years  old,  was  tall, 


10  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

spare,  and  active,  and  wonderfully  strong  for  her  age. 
She  had  dark  hair,  and  eyes  full  of  fathomless  fire. 
Zacharia  had  certain  nervous  misgivings  about  being 
chopped  up  by  a  bear  in  his  tent  some  night ;  tigers  and 
lions  were  also  inquired  aflter;  but,  all  being  settled, 
there  was  no  flinching,  and  our  gipsies  were  ready  oa 
the  day  named. 


CHAPTEB  n. 


<c 


He  is  ftn  ezceUent  oriental  achoUr,  and  lie  tells  me  that  amongst 
the  gipflies  are  the  remains  ci  a  language  (peculiar  to  themselTOs)  in 
which  Are  traces  of  Sanscrit.  Sir  Darid  Baird,  too,  was  remarkablj 
steuek  with  the  resemblance  of  some  of  the  Sepoys  to  the  English 
gipsies.  They  are  eridently  not  the  dregs  of  any  people.  The  oounte- 
nances  of  many  of  the  females  are  beantifa),  as  those  of  the  males  are 
manly." — TKe  Peaeodi  ai  Rowdy, 

GIPSY    EQUIPMEirr — NORWEGIAN     GIPSIES — ^PBESTEN    EILERT    SUKDT^THE 
HUIX    SnAMER— THE  TOURIST'S  FRIEND — OUR  0IP8T  SONG. 


The  gipsies'  equipment  and  wardrobe  was  not  exten- 
sive ;  some  additions  given  by  the  Rye  made  them  up 
assez  hien  pour  le  voyage.  One  or  two  waistcoats,  and 
a  handkerchief  or  two,  formed,  we  believe,  the  whole  of 
Noah  and  Zacharia's  change.  But  their  boots!  those 
were  unexceptionable.  They  must  be  new — they  must 
be  thick — ^they  must  be  nailed — double  and  treble  nailed. 
One  shoemaker  failed  in  solidity  and  soundness  of  sub- 
stratum ;  but  at  last,  to  the  Rye's  comfort  and  inexpres- 
sible relief,  a  more  skilled  follower  of  St.  Crispin  pro- 
duced some  chef  cToeum'es  of  ponderous  construction, 
which  the  gipsies  admitted  to  be  masterpieces.  The 
man  who  drove  the  nails  had  well-earned  his  wages ; 
the  soles,  indeed,  at  length  resembled  one  of  those  old- 
fashioned  oak  doors,  that  one  sometimes  sees  in  ancient 
castles,  or  manorial  residences.  We  duly  discharged  their 
cost,  consolmg  ourselves  with  the  reflection  that  we  had 


12  TENT  LIFE   IN  NOEWAY. 

not  to  walk  in  them  through  Norway.  Esmeralda  had 
one  dress  to  change.  What  it  wanted  in  skirt,  was  made 
up  by  the  ornamentation  of  plaid  braid,  and  silver  buttons, 
quite  in  accordance  with  the  fashion  of  some  Norwegian 
districts.  She  had  no  bandboxes,  chignon-boxes,  glove- 
boxes,  parasols,  umbrellas,  caps,  pomades,  perfumes,  and 
a  thousand  other  things  often  required.  A  long  Alpine 
cloak,  and  a  few  articles  of  change,  formed  a  very  slight 
addition  to  our  baggage. 

There  are  Norwegian  gipsies.  Even  Norway  has 
been  reached  by  wandering  hordes  of  this  singular 
people.*  We  were  desirous  of  comparing  the  language 
of  English  gipsies  with  that  of  the  Norwegian  Zigeuner  ; 
we  were  anxious  to  see  some  of  the  roving  Tater-pak 
of  this  Northern  land.  In  our  researches  into  the  his- 
tory, language, .  origin,  and  probable  fate  of  this  wild, 
wandering  people,  who  still  cling  with  remarkable  ten- 
acity to  their  ancient  modes  of  life  and  language,  we  had 
met  with  the  iateresting  works  of  Presten  Eilert  Sundt — 
a  gentleman  who  has  given  much  time  and  indefatigable 

*  Monsieur  Bataillard,  in  his  interesting  work  '^  Nouvelles  Becherches 
sur  rApparition  et  la  Dispersion  des  Bohcmiens  en  Europe/'  says  that  the 
earliest  mention  of  Taters  in  Norway  is  found  in  a  law  of  1589.  His 
opinion  is  that  they  did  not  enter  Nonvay  by  way  of  Denmark  and  South 
Sweden,  but  through  North  Sweden  and  the  Duchy  of  Finland,  that  is  to 
say  by  the  north  of  Russia.  This  opinion  appears  to  have  been  supported 
by  Presten  Eilert  Sundt.  M.  Batailhud, 'therefore^  considers  that  the 
Norwegian  gipsies  were  not  part  of  the  numerous  hordes  who  entered  the 
south  of  Europe  subsequently  to  the  year  1417.  M.  BataiUard  is  the  author 
of  a  work  entitled  "  Dc  TApparition  et  de  la  dispersion  des  Bohcmiens  en 
Europe,**  published  in  1844,  and  now  out  of  print.  The  same  author  has 
recently  published  another  interesting  and  valuable  contribution,  entitled 
*'  Les  Demiers  travaux  relatifs  aux  Bohemiens  dans  TEurope  Orientale," 
published  1872.  In  this  work  Monsieur  Bataillard  gives  a  most  able  review 
of  the  works  of  various  authors  who  have  written  upon  the  gipsy  people 
wandering  in  Eastern  Europe. 


PRE8TEX  EILERT  SUNDT.  13 

energy  to  a  complete  investigation  of  the  present  state 
of  the  Norwegian  gipsies,  and  has  fonned  a  vocabu- 
laiy  of  the  Romany  language  as  spoken  by  them  i^ 
Norway. 

Presten  Sundt*s  notes  will  remain  a  valuable  record 
of  the  footsteps  of  this  people  in  the  world.  His  first 
work,  "Beretning  om  Fante-eUer  Landstrygerfolket  i 
Norge,"  was  published  at  Christiania  in  1852 ;  it  w^as 
succeeded  by  "  Anden  aars  Beretning  om  Fantefolket/' 
published  at  Christiania  in  1862.  To  him  the  Nor- 
wegian Government  are  indebted  for  the  only  informa- 
tion which  we  believe  has  yet  been  given  relative  to  the 
Norwegian  gipsies.  The  extracts  from  Presten  Sundt's 
works,  expressly  made  for  us,  will  be  found  in  the 
Appendix  to  this  work. 

Our  preparations  had  wonderfully  progressed :  besides 
bags  of  various  kinds  we  had  three  pockets^  as  the 
gipsies  call  them, — one  for  each  animal.  The  pocket  is 
a  large  broad,  flat  sack,  sewed  up  at  both  ends,  with 
a  slit  on  one  side,  which  buttons.  The  blankets  and 
rugs,  &c.,  are  folded  and  packed  flat  into  it  through  the 
slit  or  opening.  Any  hard  substances  are  placed  at  each 
end  of  the  pocket,  so  that  the  donkey's  back  may  not  be 
injured.  The  pocket  is  placed  flat  over  the  tent  covers, 
and  then  girthed  tightly  round  the  animal.  The  bags, 
tent-rods,  and  other  things  are  fastened  by  cords  passing 
between  the  girth  and  the  pocket. 

A  steamer  was  to  sail  from  Hull  in  June,  and  we 
ultimately  arranged  to  take  a  return  ticket  from  Hull  to 
Korway  and  back,  ourself  first-class,  and  the  gipsies 
second-class :  our  return  tickets  cost  us  £25,  including 


11  TEST  LIFE  IN   NORWAY. 

the  carriage  of  three  animals,  either  donkeys  or  horses, 
whichever  we  might  wish  to  take,  going  or  returning. 
At  one  time  we  thought  of  going  by  the  special  steamer 
to  Throndhjem,  intended  for  the  convenience  of  sports- 
men,  but    as   the  voyage   was   longer,   and    the    fare 


considerably  higher,  we  gave  up  the  idea.  Messrs. 
Wilson  were  most  prompt  in  giving  us  every  infonna- 
tion,  and  when  we  had  decided  to  go,  they  secured  us 
an  excellent  berth,  and  received  our  heavy  baggage 
when  forwarded. 

We  soon  received  a  small  publication,  by  John 
Bradley,  entitled,  "Norway,  its  Fjords,  Fjelds,  and 
Fosses,  and  How  to  See  Them  for  Fifteen  Guineas : " 
with  a  tempting  view  of  Norwegian  scenery  on  the 
cover.     Unfortunately  we  could  not  travel  at  so  cheap  a 


THE  TOURISTS  FRIEND.  15 

rate  witt  our  party ;  but  we  recommend  the  publication 
to  intending  tourists. 

We  now  wrote  to  Mr.  Bennett,  17,  Store  Sirandgade^ 
Christiania,  who  is  a  perfect  oracle  upon  all  matters 
pertaining  to  Norway,  and  gives  ready  aid  to  northern 
tourists,  and  he  at  once  sent  the  maps  we  required. 
We  afterwards  received  his  newly  revised  Guide  Book, 
which  is  indispensable  to  all  Norwegian  travellers. 

A  gipsy  song  was  composed  by  us  for  our  campaign, 
— a  sort  of  souvenir,  to  be  given  here  and  there, — a 
memorial  of  our  visit ;  we  had  it  translated  into  Nor- 
wegian. It  was  a  guitar  song,  with  an  engraved  border, 
illustrative  of  gipsy  life.  The  music  was  arranged  by 
our  firiend,  of  whose  regretted  absence,  we  have  already 
spoken.  He  had  taken  it  from  an  air,  which  he  once 
heard  played,  by  an  Italian  boy,  in  the  streets  of  London. 
It  had  since  dwelt  on  his  memory.  The  following  is 
the  music  of  the  air,  and  the  song  follows,  with  a  Nor- 
wegian translation,  which  is  said,  to  be  exceedingly 
good. 


16 


TENT  LIFE   IN  NORWAY. 


MUSIC    OF   GIPSIES'    NORWEGIAN   SONG. 


(^ 


f  r '  > . 


CHAPTER  m. 

'*  Th»  woods  are  green,  the  liedgee  white 
With  leareey  and  bloeioms  Uii ; 
Tlierat*s  moaic  in  the  foreit  new, 
And  I  too  must  be  there.*' 

JSFfEBTe. 

A  FBIESD'b  lOBQIVING — ^DARK  VOBSBODINGS — ^A  SLKKPLRSS  NIOHT— TRB 
BAILWAT  BXATIOH — THE  AI<BION — A  PHILOSOPHSR^THE  8TREBT  DOT 
— DISTDrGUXSHSD  TRAYELLEBS. 

Wb  had  nearly  completed  our  preparations,  and  were 
leaving  town,  wlien  we  dined  one  evening  with  a  friend 
whom  we  had  not  seen  for  some  time.  He  seemed 
interested  in  our  approaching  excursion,  hut  his  astonish* 
ment  was  great,  when  our  plan  was  divulged 

"What!  going  to  Norway  with  gipsies?"  said  he  in 
am^ement,as  he  poised  in  his  hand,  a  glass  of  champagne. 
'*  Why  I  don't  helieve  my.  friend  Tom  Taylor,  who  has 
taken  a  great  interest  in  the  gipsy  language,  ever  went  so 
far  as  to  camp  with  them.  You'll  be  robbed,  and 
murdered — ^not  the  slightest  doubt.  Travel  with  gipsies ! " 
exclaimed  our  friend,  and  he  seemed  to  shudder  at  the 
thought. 

We  were  quite  unable  to  say  how  much  self-sacrifice 
^Ir.  Tom  Taylor  may  have  made.  We  had  read  his 
interesting  collection  of  Breton  Ballads.  He  vaites  well 
on  a  great  variety  of  subjects,  and  is  an  excellent  art 

c  2 


20  TENT  LIFE   IN  NORWAY. 

critic ;  but  we  could  not  give  any  opinion  upon  his  camp 
experience.  My  friend  shook  his  head,  "  Write  to  mo 
when  you  get  there -promise  to  write  me  a  letter,"  said 
he  earnestly.  "  Yes,  you  will  be  certainly  robbed,  and 
murdered,'*  and  he  silently  emptied  his  glass. 

There  was  something  touching  in  his  manner,  as  he 
gulped  down  the  effervescent  draught,  with  a  look  which 
showed  plainly  that  he  had  no  hope  for  our  safe  return. 

In  the  drawing-room  the  subject  seemed  one  of  interest. 
We  gave  our  friend  a  promise  to  write.  As  we  left  the 
house,  his  adieux  were  those  of  separation,  for  the  last 
time. 

It  had  been  a  wild  rainy  night.  ^Vhat  with  packing, 
and  writing  letters,  we  never  went  to  bed.  Mes  gens  de 
la  inaison  remained  up  also.  After  a  very  early  breakfast 
we  were  en  route.  As  we  drove  up  to  the  railway 
station  of  a  large  populous  town,  we  caught  sight  of  our 
gipsies.  They  were  waiting  for  us  with  the  three 
donkeys  in  the  shelter  of  some  open  building  of  the 
station.  The  gipsies  looked  wet,  draggled,  and  miry,  but 
full  of  spirits.  As  we  stepped  from  the  carriage,  a  porter 
took  charge  of  our  twelve  packages. 

We  had  received  previously  full  and  explicit  informa- 
tion from  the  passenger  department  as  to  the  trains  and 
expense  of  transit,  and  had  engaged  a  horse  box  to  HulL 
One  of  the  officials,  seemed  rather  astonished,  when  he 
found  three  donkeys,  were  to  be  conveyed  in  the  horse- 
box, he  scarcely  seemed  able  to  connect  a  horse-box,  with 
the  proposed  freight. 

A  stray  policeman  seemed  puzzled  at  the  retinue. 
The  three  gipsies,  saluting  us  with  SJiawshon  hangh, 
Sir  ?     (How  do  you  do.  Sir  ?)  marched  up  and  down  the 


THE  RAILWAY  8TATI0X,  SI 

platform,  apparently  much  pleased  at  our  arrival  The 
stray  policeman  meandered  about,  as  if  he  was  up,  and 
flown,  and  nohow,  as  to  what  it  all  meant,  or  whether  the 
gipsies,  belonged  to  us,  or  themselves.  He  was  lingering 
near,  when  we  produced  a  10/.  Bank  of  England  note  at 
the  booking-office,  in  payment  for  our  tickets.  A  new 
light  then  beamed  on  his  mind,  and  we  did  not  see  him 
again.  The  horse-box  was  paid  for.  The  porter  got 
labels  for  all  our  packages,  and  timidly  ventured  to 
inquire  the  use  of  the  tent-rods,  which  he  luid  curiously 
regarded  for  some  time.  We  secured  a  second-class,  and 
a  first-class  compartment  in  the  same  carriage,  all  was 
arranged,  the  signal  was  given,  and  we  were  off.  We 
had  only  one  change — at  Leeds — and  no  stoppage.  The 
horse-box  went  right  through.  A  pleasant  compagnon  de 
voyage^  accompanied  us  most  of  the  journey;  he  had 
lately  come  from  the  blue  skies  of  Italy. 

The  gipsies  were  joined  by  an  inquisitive  fellow* 
traveller,  in  a  white  hat.  Some  people  trouble  them- 
selves about  everybody  else's  business  but  tlieir  own. 
He  cross-examined  them,  as  to  who  we  were,  and  where 
we  came  from.  "  Gloucestershire,"  said  Noah — "  we  all 
came  firom  Gloucestershire  this  morning."  "  You  must 
have  started  very  early,"  said  the  inquisitive  traveller, 
**  Oh,  yes,"  said  Noah  with  emphasis — "  very  early." 

It  was  a  damp^  wet  morning,  as  we  arrived  on  Friday, 
the  17th  June,  1871,  at  the  Hull  station,  and  found 
ourselves  on  the  platform.  We  left  the  gipsies,  to  look 
after  the  donkeys,  which  were  put  in  some  stables  at  the 
station ;  and  taking  all  our  things  in  a  cab  to  the  Albion 
steamer,  we  put  them  on  btfard.  Messrs.  Wilson  were 
called   upon.     They   are  prompt  men  of  business ;    to 


22  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

their  word  in  all  things.  Ample  arrangements  would 
be  made  to  shelter  the  donkeys  during  the  voyage,  and 
we  paid  our  fare.  At  the  station  on  our  return  we  found 
a  civil  porter  waiting  for  us,  and  having  paid  the  stout 
stableman  Is.  for  each  donkey,  the  gipsies  took  them  on 
board  about  one  or  two  o'clock  in  the  day. 

Much  curiosity  was  created  when  the  gipsies  came  on 
deck.  The  steward  of  the  vessel  said,  they  seemed  to 
have  lately  come  from  a  warm  countr5\ 

The  Albion  steamer  had  small,  but  comfortable  second- 
class  accommodation.  No  meal  could  be  had  until  seven 
o'clock;  but  the  second  steward  managed  to  get  the 
gipsies  some  sandwiches  and  ale.  They  had  been  fed  en 
route  in  the  morning,  and  were  quite  satisfied,  with  the 
refreshments  so  provided. 

During  the  previous  wet  night,  they  had  camped  some 
distance  from  the  starting  point,  and  had  ridden  the 
donkeys  through  the  rain  to  the  railway  station.  Noah 
and  Zacharia  had  no  great-coats,  but  Esmeralda  was 
dressed  in  her  long  Alpine  cloak,  and  treble  necklace  of 
blue,  and  white  beads.  Her  straw  hat  was  surmounted 
by  a  small  plume  of  feathers,  dyed  blue,  by  one  of  her 
brothers.  She  did  not  wear  earrings,  and  had  no  other 
ornament. 

We  had  left  the  steamer  to  obtain  some  methylated 
spirit  for  our  Russian  lamp,  and  to  call  at  Messrs. 
Wilson  and  Co.'s,  when  we  remembered,  that  we  had 
forgotten  our  watch-keys.  A  watchmaker's  shop  was 
soon  found.  The  watchmaker  was  a  merry-looking  man- 
The  watch  had  always  been  provided  with  one  key  to 
wind  it  up,  and  another  to  regulate  the  hands.  We  had 
always  been  assured,  that  two  dififerent  keys,  were  re- 


A  FHILOaOFHBB.  83 

quired.  "  Ha !  ha ! !  ha ! ! !  "  laughed  the  watchmaker, 
who  was  apparently  a  GermaD,  "  I  will  give  you  one  key 
which  will  do  the  same  thing — ha !  ha ! !  ha II ! " 

It  was  a  beautifully  fonned  key,  nor  had  we  ever  met 
with  one  like  it  before. 

The  watchmaker  appeared  to  us  as  a  second  Jean 
Batiste  Schioilgui  of  Strasbourg.*  "  Ha !  ha ! !  ha ! ! ! " 
laughed  the  merry  little  man,  "  all  is  mystery.  We  eat 
and  drink,  but  we  comprehend  nothing.  Ah !  we  often 
end  in  believing  nothing.^'  We  remarked  that  no  one 
who  contemplated  with  attention  the  works  of  Nature 
could  overlook  the  design  of  a  great  Creator.  The 
watchmaker  went  to  an  inner  door.  A  pretty  girl  pro- 
bably his  daughter,  changed  a  shilling  for  him.  ^^  Ah !  " 
continued  he,  "  you  see  by  travel ;  you  t^ie  in  through 
the  eyes ;  they  are  the  great  vehicles  of  human  life.  I 
laugh  at  them,  ha !  ha ! !  ha ! ! ! "  and  he  bowed  as  I  left 
tlie  shop. 

We  were  now  nearly  ready  for  the  voyage;  as  we 
passed  from  the  gates  of  the  railway  station  an  interest- 
ing-looking  boy,  pleaded  hard  to  black  our  boots.  It  is 
an  honest  way  of  making  a  livelihood.  In  this  instance 
we  stepped  aside— one  boot  was  just  finished,  when 
he  suddenly  bolted.  Although  he  did  not  wait  for 
his  money,  he  did  not  forget  the  paraphernalia  of  his 
business.  Another  boy  explained,  that  he  was  not  al- 
lowed to  black  boots  so  near  the  station,  and  a  police- 
man in  the  distance  had  caused  his  hasty  disappearance. 

The  boy  again  met  us  soon  after,  and  completed  his 
work ;  we  were  glad  to  have  the  chance  of  paying  him. 

*  Jean  Batiste  Scliwilgu6  was  bom  at  Strasbotirg,  18th  Dec,  17Y6,  a»<l 
completed  the  celebrated  clock  in  the  Straebourg  Cathedral. 


24  TENT  LIFE   IN  NORWAY, 

When  we  went  on  board  the  steamer,  all  was  confu- 
sion. On  the  wharf,  we  had  Is.  wharfage,  to  pay  for  each 
animal.  The  total  expenses  of  our  party  to  join  the 
steamer  amounted  to  10?.  9^.  &d.  including  65.  lid.  for 
hay,  supplied  to  the  donkeys  for  the  voyage. 

The'  evening  was  damp  and  gloomy.  An  old  weather- 
beaten  Norwegian  pilot  wandered  about  the  deck.  Men 
in  oilskin  coats,  smelling  strongly  of  ta,r  and  tobacco- 
quid,  hustle  and  bustle,  against  everything.  Very  com- 
fortable accommodation,  had  been  erected  specially  for 
the  animals  near  the  engines,  in  the  waist  of  the  steamer. 
Esmeralda  was  feeding  them  with  hay. 

When  the  gipsies  were  afterwards  looking  over  the 
side  of  the  vessel,  they  formed  an  interesting  group. 
Then  came  the  active  steward,  of  the  second  cabin,  who 
promised  us  to  take  care  of  them.  The  second  steward 
was  a  small,  but  firmly-knit,  active  young  fellow,  who 
said  he  had  been  wrecked  twice,  in  the  old  coat  he  was 
then  wearing,  and  for  which,  therefore,  he  had  a  strong 
^fifection  ;  after  saying  he  should  go  next  winter  to  Cali- 
fornia, he  left  us  to  look  after  his  many  arrangements. 

We  were  informed  that  Sir  Charles  Mordaunt  and 
also  Lord  Muncaster,*  who  had  so  narrowly  escaped  the 


*  It  may  be  that  the  noble  descendant  of  the  Penningtons  owed  his 
almost  miraculous  escape,  to  his  possession  of  the  curiously- wrought 
enameUed  glass  cup,  given  by  King  Henry  the  Vlth  after  the  battle  of 
Hexham,  1463,  to  his  ancestor,  Sir  John  de  Pennington,  knt,  with  a  prayer 
that  the  family  should  ever  prosper,  and  never  want  a  male  heir,  as  long  as 
the  cup  remained  unbroken.  The  cup  is  called  the  ''  Luck  of  Muncaster," 
and  Muncaster  Castle,  and  its  long  broad  winding  terrace,  commanding 
magnificent  views  over  the  vaUey  of  Eskdale,  is  one  of  those  enchanted 
spots  which  we  meet  with  in  the  picturesque  county  of  Cumberland.  It  is 
singular  that  another  family  in  Cumberland  also  possess  a  similar  talisman, 
to  which  is  attached  a  rare  value,  ''  The  Luck  of  EdenhaU,**  belonging  to 


TEE    ZVCK  OF  MUKCA8TER  2:i 

Athenian  brigands,  had  left  Hull  in  the  special  etearaer 
for  I%rtmdkfem  on  the  previous  evening. 

the  andexit  family  of  Mosgiaye.  It  is  an  old  enamelled  drinking  glosSy 
said  to  have  heen  aeized  in  olden  time  by  a  Bntler  of  Eden  Hall  from 
«>me  fairies  he  surprised  dancing  near  St.  Cuthbert's  weU  in  the  Park. 
The  glass  had  been  left  by  the  fairies  near  the  brink  of  the  well,  and  the 
fairies,  failing  to  TecoTer  it^  yanished  with  the  words  ^ 

**  If  that  glass  either  break  or  faU, 
Farewell  the  Luck  of  EdenhaU." 

An  interesting  acconnt  is  given  of  the  "Luck  of  EdenhaU"  in  Roby*8 
interesting  *<  Tales  and  Traditions  of  Lancashire." 


CHAPTEBIV. 

'*  Zakoa.  It  is  welL 

You  shall  not  long  count  days  in  weariness : 
Ere  the  full  moon  has  waned  again  to  new. 
We  shall  reach  Almeria ;  Berber  ships 
Will  take  us  for  their  freight^  and  we  shall  go 
With  plenteous  spoil,  not  stolen,  bravely  won 
By  service  done  on  Spaniards.     Do  you  shrink  ? 
Aie  you  aught  less  than  a  Zincala  ? " 

GFbobok  Bliot's  Spanith  Gipty. 

ENGLAND'S  FABEWELL — 8UHKER  T0UBI8TS— THE  CHEVALIER — SEAFARING 
— A  GIPSY  RECEPTION— CHANGE  OP  PLANS— NORWEGIAN  PILOT — THE 
BIRMINGHAM  BAGMAN — ^INDUCEMENT  TO  AUTHORSHIP — STRANGX  WILLS 
— A  SAILOR'S  PHILOSOPHY— ICELANDIC  LANGUAGE — PROGNOSTICATIONS. 

The  steamer's  saloon  was  elegantly  fitted  up.  Bouquets 
of  flowers  shed  their  fragrance  on  each  table ;  books, 
pens,  and  ink  had  been  supplied  for  the  use  of  the 
voyagers.  One  passenger  soon  entered,  carrying  a  long 
sword  ;  another — a  French  gentleman — ^followed,  and  ex- 
pressed a  wish  to  be  in  the  same  cabin  with  his  wife.  Wo 
have  pleasure  in  saying  that  we  found  the  captain  very 
agreeable,  and  courteous. 

The  Albion  steamer  left  the  Hull  docks  at  eight  o'clock 
the  same  evening,  being  towed  out  by  a  steam-tug.  The 
under-steward,  went  to  meet  some  passengers,  whose 
arrival  was  expected  by  a  late  train,  but  returned  without 
having  found  them.  The  gipsies  and  ourself,  as  we  stood 
looking  over  the  bulwarks  of  the  steamer,  took  our  last 
view  of  the  fading  shore,  and  the  steamer  was  soon  fairly 


SUMMER  T0UBI8TS.  27 

on  her  voyage.    Our  gipsies  were  almost  famished  ;  but 

we  managed  to  get  them  some  tea,  at  nine  o'clock,  and 

they  went  off  to  bed 

Our  cabin  was  one  of  the  best  in  the  steamer.  We 
awoke  as  daylight  dawned  thioiigfa  the  open  bull's-eye 
window  of  our  upper  berth.  Not  feeling  decidedly  well, 
or  ill,  we  got  up,  to  see  how  we  were ;  then  we  had  some 
conyersation,  with  our  fellow-passenger  in  the  berth 
below.  (We  were  the  only  two  occupants  of  the  cabin.) 
This  traveller,  who  was  invisible  behind  the  curtain  of 
his  berth,  informed  us  that  he  was  going  on  business  to 
Gottenberg ;  while  we  told  him,  that  we  were  going  to 
make  a  tour,  in  the  wilds  of  Norway. 

When  we  sought  our  gipsies,  -we  found  that  they  were 
not  up.  In  company  with  several  of  our  fellow-passengers, 
we  afterwards  sat  down  to  a  capital  breakfast  provided 
for  US  in  the  saloon.  The  steamer  had  its  usual  comple* 
ment  of  travellers  to  Norway  in  summer — some  for  fish* 
ing,  some  for  health,  and  some  for  business. 

One  pale,  gentlemanly  passenger,  whose  acquaintance 
we  made,  had  met  with  an  accident  to  his  leg.  Another 
agreeable  tourist,  whom  we  will  call  Mr.  C,  was  accom- 
panied by  his  wife — a  tall  young  lady,  with  a  Tyrolese 
hat  and  feather.  A  young  invalid  officer,  just  returned 
from  Italy,  had  had  the  Roman  fever,  and  was  given  up ;  he 
had,  however,  recovered  sufficiently  to  travel,  and  intended 
going  to  Lyngdal  to  join  some  friends.  There  were  also 
two  or  three  Norwegian  gentlemen  (one  of  them,  a 
Chevalier  de  TOrdre  de  Wasa),  a  Scotch  traveller  with  a 
large  sandy  beard,  and  a  tall,  portly  gentleman,  going  to 
visit  some  friends  near  Christiania. 

Finding  we  had  three  donkeys  on  board,  the  Chevalier 


TENT  LIFE   IN  NORWAY. 


and  another  passenger  accompanied  us  to  see  tliem.  The 
first-named  gentleman,  was  especially  interested  in  our 
proposed  excursion.    How  shall  we  describe  him  ? 


He  was  rather  under  middle  height,  thick-set,  and 
strongly  built ;  and  occasionally  his  countenance  ex- 
pressed, much  animation,  and  good-humoured  energy. 
The  information  he  possessed  was  extensive  ;  he  spoke 
English  perfectly ;  had  travelled  much,  and  knew  Scan- 
dinavia, and  its  people  well. 

The  donkeys  were  declared  vei}'  fine  ones,  Mpecially 
the  large  light-coloured  animal,  with  a  dark  cross  on  its 
shoulders,  long,  finely-formed  legs,  and  beautiful  head. 
Tliis  donkey  was  about  six  years  old,  and  we  called  it 
the  Puru  Rawnee.* 

The  next  donkey,  was  a  dark  animal,  five  years  old, 
strong,  but  not  so  finely  formed;  although  not  so  spirited, 

*  Puni  Rawnee — old  lady. 


SEAFARING.  99 

it  endured  all  the  fatigue  of  long  travel,  even  better  than 
its  two  companions ;  we  called  it  the  Puro  Rye.* 

The  third  was  about  four  years  old,  with  a  beautiful 
head,  very  lively,  and  was  called  the  Tamo  Rye.f  They 
seemed  to  relish  the  hay,  and  made  themselves  quite  at 
home. 

The  donkeys  became  objects  of  special  interest,  and 
the  Puru  Rawnee  was  much  admired.  Most  of  the  pas- 
sengers had  something  to  recount  as  to  their  impressions. 
A  Norwegian  gentleman  said  that  they  had  no  donkeys 
in  Norway,  which  we  afterwards  found  to  be  quite 
correct.  Another  good-humouredly  said,  that  sixpence 
each  ought  to  be  charged,  and  the  entrance  closed. 
Many  were  the  suggestions,  and  speculations,  concerning 
them  by  the  passengers,  as  they  quietly  puffed  their 
cigars.  The  gentleman  of  the  Roman  fever,  who  seemed 
to  be  improving  each  hour,  said  in  a  significant  manner, 
during  a  pause  in  the  conversation,  "You'll  write  a 
book;  your  experience  will  be  interesting — ^you  ought 
to  write  a  book." 

We  now  went  to  find  our  gipsies,  or  what  was  left  of 
tliem.  Esmeralda  was  lying  on  the  deck,  with  her  head  on 
a  closed  hatchway.  She  raised  her  head  in  a  most  doleful 
manner,  and  said,  "  Very  bad,  sir."  Noah  was  lying 
next  his  sister,  and  sat  up  for  a  moment  looking  very 
wild.  Zacharia  was  extended  full  length,  perfectly  speech- 
less.   Evidently,  they  wished  themselves  on  shore  again. 

Great  curiosity  was  excited  among  the  passengers  to 
see  the  gipsies.  We  explained,  that  they  were  in  a  very 
prostrate  condition — in  fact,  quite  unable  to  hold  much 

*  Poro  Rye— old  gentleman.    In  Turkish  Romany,  phura-old. 
t  Tamo  Rye — ^yonng  gentleman. 


30  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

intercourse,  with  the  outer  world ;  but  at  length  we 
yielded,  and  introduced  a  party  to  them.  The  interview 
was  short,  and  as  our  gipsies  were  still  lying  on  the  deck, 
and  quite  unable  to  do  the  honours  of  the  reception,  we 
soon  left  them  in  peace.  The  passengers  were  apparently 
much  pleased  with  the  introduction. 

They  were  real  gipsies — ^gipsies  who  had  all  their  life 
roamed  England  with  their  tents — ^none  of  your  half-and- 
half  caravan  people — an  effeminate  race,  who  sleep  in 
closed  boxes,  gaudily  painted  outside,  with  a  stove,  and  a 
large  fire  within.  Ours  were  nomads,  who  slept  on  the 
ground,  and  wandered  with  their  tents,  durmg  every 
season  of  the  year. 

The  steward  took  care  we  did  not  starve.  Our  dinner 
was  quite  a  success.  The  table  groaned  beneath  the 
weight  of  soup,  salmon,  roast  beef,  veal,  ducks  and  green 
peas,  young  potatoes,  puddings,  Stilton  and  Cheshire 
cheese,  &c.,  with  excellent  claret  from  a  Norwegian 
house  at  Chiistiania.  ' 

The  gipsies  did  not  give  much  sign  of  revival.  During 
the  afternoon,  we  visited  them  now,  and  then,  consoled 
them,  and  gave  the  steward  orders,  to  let  them  have 
whatever  they  wanted. 

We  had  a  long  conversation,  with  the  Chevalier,  as  to 
our  route,  through  Norway.  It  had  been  our  intention 
to  make  Christiansand  our  starting-point,  go  through 
the  wilds  of  the  Thelemarken,  and  visit  again  the  Gousta 
Mountain,  and  the  Rjukan  Fos.  The  Chevalier  sug- 
gested Christiania,  as  the  best  starting-point,  taking 
railway  to  Eidsvold,  where,  he  said,  Presten  Eilert  Sundt 
resided.  He  then  said,  we  could  travel  by  road,  or  steamer, . 
to    Lillehammer,   and  from  thence  through    the   Gud- 


NOBWEQIAN  PILOT.  31 

brandsdaleiL  He  afterwards  sketched  out  a  very 
long  and  interesting  route,  having  its  termination  at 
Christiansand,  and  ¥^e  determined  to  follow  as  far  as 
possible  his  suggestions. 

There  were  many  inquiries  by  the  passengers  as  to 
how  the  gipsies  fared,  and  we  went  to  see  them  again 
jnst  before  tea-time.  Zacharia  was  in  bed,  and  asleep ; 
Noah  was  just  getting  into  bed ;  and  Esmeralda  was 
m  the  second-class  women's  cabin,  with  some  tea,  and 
bread-and-butter  before  her,  looking  exceedingly  poorly. 
The  close  proximity  to  a  stout  woman  who  was  dread- 
fully sea-sick,  was  not  enlivening. 

The  Norwegian  pilot,  who  was  a  good-tempered  old 
man,  had  been  much  interested  with  the  nails  in  the 
gipsies'  boots ;  when  they  were  lying  on  the  deck,  he 
would  sometimes  stoop  down  to  make  a  close  inspection, 
as  if  he  were  counting  them.  He  said  nothing,  but 
probably  thought  more. 

The  occupant  of  our  cabin,  when  we  saw  him,  was  a 
young  man  with  an  eye  to  ^business ;  in  fact,  some  ot 
the  passengers  averred  aft;erwards,  that  he  could  calculate 
in  a  few  moments,  the  exact  amount,  the  steamer  cost,  to 
a  fourpenny  nail.  He  seemed,  however,  to  be  very  well 
intentioned,  in  his  inquisitive  analysis  of  everybody,  and 
everything.  He  was  said  by  some  one  to  be  a  Birming- 
ham bagman,  whilst  others  said  he  was  a  wandering  Jew ; 
but  whether  Jew  or  Gentile,  he  took  a  decided  interest  in 
the  gipsies,  and  the  donkeys,  for  which  we  suppose  there 
was  some  excuse.  He  had  dark  hair,  eyebrows,  and  beard, 
pale  complexion,  and  generally  walked  with  his  hands  in 
his  pockets,  and  his  shoulders  screwed  up  to  the  back  of 
his  neck.     His  head,  was  inclined  downwards,  whilst  he 


32  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

looked  at  you,  with  large  rolling  eyes,  from  under  his 
bushy  eyebrows,  with  a  quick  upward  glance  of  inquiry. 
Now  and  then,  he  would  walk  off  to  see  the  donkeys,  and 
report  on  his  return,  to  the  other  passengers,  his  views 
as  to  their  state  of  comfort,  and  happiness. 

Somehow  his  opinion,  did  not  appear  to  have  much 
weight  with  the  other  passengers — whether  it  was  from 
want  of  intelligence  on  their  part,  or  obscurity  of  per- 
ception, we  could  not  say.  At  tea-time  he  sat  opposite 
to  us ;  he  dashed  wildly  into  salad,  and  then  said  in  a 
loud  voice  across  the  table,  "  I  have  seen  your  donkeys ; 
I  should  like  to  go  with  you."  '*  You  seem  to  like  them,'* 
we  replied.  "No!"  exclaimed  he,  very  wildly;  "it  is 
your  gipsies'  dark  eyes." 

"  He  is  insane,''  said  the  Chevalier,  in  an  under  tone, 
to  which  we  readily  assented.  The  bagman  certainly 
did  look  wild ;  and  it  inmiediately  occurred  to  us  that 
he  slept  under  our  berth,  in  the  same  cabin — not  a  lively 
contemplation,  but  we  were  determined,  not  to  meet 
trouble  halfway. 

We  had  entered  up  some  of  our  notes,  and  had  strolled 
on  deck  to  enjoy  the  freshness  of  the  sea-breeze,  when 
we  found  ourselves  one  of  a  small  party  of  passengers, 
whiling  away  the  time,  in  pleasant  conversation,  in  which 
our  captain  joined. 

"You  must  write  a  book,"  said  the  officer  who  had 
had  the  Roman  fever. 

"  And  dedicate  it  to  you?"  we  rejoined.. 

"  I  will  take  one  copy,"  said  one  passenger. 

"  I  will  take  three  copies,"  said  our  captain. 

"  Ah ! "  said  another,  "  it  should  be  on  the  saloon 
table." 


STRANG!!    WILLS.  33 

*'And  then,"  said  another,  "it  will  be  interesting  to 
know  the  fate  of  the  three  donkeys." 

We  admitted  that,  after  so  much  encouragement,  we 
must  write  a  book,  and  dedicate  it  to  the  officer,  who 
had  had  the  Roman  fever. 

Several  anecdotes  were  related.  One  passenger  said, 
"  There  was  a  house  near  Hyde  Park,  which  formerly 
belonged  to  an  old  gentleman,  who  left  his  property  to 
trustees  on  certain  truste,  provided  they  buried  him  on 
the  top  of  his  house."*  Several  instances  were  told  of 
persons  desiring  in  their  wiUs  to  be  buried  in  their 
garden ;  and  one  or  two  cases  were  mentioned  where  the 
wish  had  been  disregarded. 

The  weather  became  rainy,  and  our  compagnons  de 
voyagey  sought  shelter  elsewhere.     We,   however,   still 

*  Although  the  account,  edngular  as  it  is,  receives  very  general  credence, 
and  the  place  of  sepulture,  on  the  roof  of  the  mansion  near  Hyde  Park,  is 
even  pointed  out,  we  must  say,  that  a  literary  friend,  who  devoted  some 
time  to  the  inquiry,  discredits  the  truth.  In  a  letter  written  by  a  near 
relative  of  the  titled  possessor,  which  we  have  seen,  it  is  stated,  that  the 
account  is  correct,  and  it  is  also  stated,  that  the  property,  for  that  reason, 
was  purchased  for  a  lower  price.  The  matter  therefore  remains  involved 
in  some  mystery.  We  have  since  been  informed  by  a  cleigyman,  that  he 
weU  remembers  being  told,  of  the  sepulture  of  a  body,  on  a  house  near 
Clapham  Junction,  on  the  London  and  South- Western  Railway.  Another 
instance  has  also  been  mentioned  to  us,  as  occurring  in  one  of  the  midland 
counties.  At  the  last  moment,  but  in  time  to  find  a  record  in  this  note, 
a  friend  has  kindly  sent  us  the  foUowing  facts,  illustrative  of  our  page 
heading,  '^  Strange  Wills."  At  Stevenage,  in  Hertfordshire,  a  pleasantly 
situated  place  on  the  High  North  Boad,  about  eleven  miles  from  Hertford, 
a  resident,  Henry  Trigg,  having  peculiar  ideas  about  the  resurrection,  left 
his  property  to  his  heirs,  upon  condition,  and  in  trust,  that  they  put  him  in 
an  oak  coffin,  and  placed  his  body  on  the  rafters  of  his  bam,  attached  to 
the  Old  Castle  Public  House,  in  the  parish  of  Stevenage.  There  he  was 
placed  in  1724,  and  there  he  now  remains.  In  the  time  when  coaches 
stopped  at  the  Old  Castle  Public  House,  there  were  many  traveUers  on  the 
Qreat  Northern  Boad.  The  old  oak  coffin  was  then  a  lion  of  the  place,  and 
brought  grist  to  the  landlord  of  the  inn.  Even  now  it  is  occasionaUy 
visited  by  the  curious. 


34  TENT  LIFE   IN   NORWAY. 

clung  to  the  fresh  sea-air,  and  as  we  paced  the  deck  near 
the  wheel,  we  could  not  help  observing  the  silent  seaman, 
gazing  intently  in  solemn  earnestness,  on  his  compass,  as 
if,  like  Dr.  Dee,  he  noted  many  things,  within  a  magic 
crystal.  He  was  a  good-looking,  though  weather-beaten 
man,  with  a  dark  moustache. 

In  answer  to  an  observation  we  made,  as  to  the 
weather,  he  said,  "  Well,  sir,  I  never  felt  it  so  cold  as  it 
was  last  Sunday — not  even  in  the  Baltic  last  winter, 
when  I  had  ice,  an  inch  thick  on  my  back.  Why,  I  had 
three  coats  on  last  Sunday  T' 

We  then  remarked,  that  there  were  few  accidents  on 
the  line  of  steamers. 

'*  Accidents  you  think  seldom  occur  on  this  line  ?  Well, 
I  don't  know.  There  was  the  Echo  last  winter ;  not  a 
soul  saved !  Fve  slipped  four  in  my  time,  as  have  soon 
after  gone  down," 

"  You've  been  lucky,*'  said  we.  • 

"  Lucky  ?  Well — if  there  is  such  a  thing  as  luck ;  but 
I  think  Providence  ordains  all  things;  I  believe  all 
things  are  ordained  for  us.''  Many  sailors  we  have  met, 
have  been  men  of  deep  religious  feeling ;  below  a  rough 
surface,  we  have  often  found  much  true  piety. 

The  Chevalier  still  remained  on  deck,  and  we  had  a 

a 

long  conversation  about  Iceland.  The  Icelandic  lan- 
guage is  the  same  as  the  old  Norwegian  language  ;  but 
he  told  us  that  it  is  difficult  for  one  who  speaks  only 
modern  Norwegian,  to  leam  Icelandic.  In  Iceland,  he 
said,  they  were  great  snuff-takers  ;  it  was  calculated  that 
each  person  took  2lbs.  of  snuff  per  head  each  year.  Like 
the  Scotch,  they  had  their  mulls  or  snuff-horns. 

At  twelve  o'clock  on  this  day,  the  thermometer  stood 


PBOGNOSTICATIONS.  35 

at  62.°  Tlie  ladies  had  scarcely  appeared ;  they  generally 
suffer  more  than  gentlemen. 

It  was  nearly  twelve  at  night  when  we  entered  our 
cabin  to  go  to  bed.  The  occupant  of  the  second  berth 
was  invisible,  but  not  asleep ;  and  he  asked  whether  we 
objected  to  have  the  cabin-door  open.  We  were  only 
too  glad  to  oblige  him,  and  with  the  bull's-eye  window 
open  also,  we  had  an  agreeable  atmosphere. 

His  mind  was  apparently  still  dwelling  upon  the 
gipsies.  An  interrogating  voice  issued  from  the  lower 
berth,  as  we  were  preparing  to  go  to  bed. 

"  I  suppose  you  have  been  writing  yo\ir  diary?  '' 

"Yes.'* 

"  Well,  I  suppose  you  will  write  a  book  ?  I  ^vill  take 
two  copies.   Have  you  a  bed  or  a  mattrass  in  your  tent  ?" 

"No!" 

"That  would  not  do  for  me.  I  should  have  an  air 
bed  to  keep  you  off  the  ground.  You  will  probably  stay 
a  day  or  two  at  Christiania  ?  I  suppose  the  gipsy  girl 
will  cook  for  you  ?  She  will  suffer,  and  be  ill,  won't  she  ? 
You  will  have  much  trouble  with  her." 

» 

We  informed  him  she  had  more  spirit,  and  was  quite 
as  strong  as  her  brothers. 

Our  fellow-passenger  again  continued,  "Where  did 
you  engage  them  ?  " 

We  answered,  we  had  known  them  some  tune,  and 
they  were  attached  to  us  ;  and  then,  wishing  him  good- 
night, we  left  him  to  pursue  his  dreams  of  the  gipsies' 
dark  eyes,  which  had  evidently  made  an  impression  upon 
him. 

Our  shrewd  calculator  was  evidently  under  the  gipsies' 
spell. 

D  2 


CHAPTER  V. 

**  Que  vent  dire  ce  mot  la,  Bsmeralda  f " 
"  Je  ne  sais  pas,''  dit-elle. 
**  A  quelle  langue  appartient-il  V* 
"  C'est  de  Tfigyptien,  je  crois." 

Notre  Dame  de  Paris,  par  Viotob  Hrao. 

**  What  is  the  meaning  of  the  name  Esmeralda  V* 

"  I  don't  know,"  said  she. 

**  To  what  language  does  it  belong  ?" 

"  It  is  Egyptian,  I  believe." 

A  seaman's  adventures — THE  UNFORTUNATE  TOURIST — ^AN  AFT  QUOTA- 
TION— FREEMASONRT — CHRISTIAN8AND  —  PAST  RECOLLECTIONS —  THE 
RUNIC  STONE—OVERPATMENT— TWO  SALMON  FISHERMEN — ^A  TRAVEL- 
LER'S CURIOSITY — NORWEGIAN  SNAKES — SCENERY — WE  ARE  ONE — 
GOLDEN  OPINIONS. 

On  Sunday  morning,  the  19th  of  June,  we  rose  at  four 
o'clock,  and  went  on  deck.  The  morning  was  cloudy ; 
not  a  passenger  to  be  seen.  The  seaman  at  the  helm 
received  our  salutation.  This  one  did  not  possess  a 
moustache,  but  he  had  his  say,  and  said  it.  He  philo- 
sophised thus.  His  wages  were  not  4Z.  a  month.  "  41." 
said  he,  ''  I  ought  to  have ;  but  if  I  did  not  take  less, 
they  would  ship  men  at  Si.  who  would.  There  were  300 
men  in  the  Custom  House  at  Hull  who  never  did  more 
than  two  hours'  work  a  day.  They  had  not  got  it  for 
them  to  do.  He  had  been  to  California,  and  had,  by 
gold  digging,  accumulated  in  a  few  months  350?. — was 
stuck-up  coming  down  the  country — lost  all — shipped  to 
'alparaiso,  got  about  80?.,  and  set  up  in  business.     The 


lEE   VNFORTXTNAtE  TOURlST.  47 

Spaniards  and  the  Chilians  had  a  row,  and  he  walked  off 
and  lost  everything.  Had  not  done  much— did  not  know 
where  a  man  could  go  to  make  money — England  was 
overcrowded.  They  were  emigrating  now  from  Norway, 
to  the  United  States  and  Canada.  Had  tried  Australia, 
but  did  nothing  there.  Had  seen  men  in  Sydney  who 
were  walking  about,  and  could  not  get  more  than  two 
hours'  work.  Thought  it  best  to  stick  to  England,  though 
he  could  not  get  higher  wages ;  but,  somehow,"  said  he 
(finishing  up)  as  he  gave  the  wheel  a  pull,  "  we  seem  to 
be  all  going  along  together ;  I  suppose  we  shall  come 
out  at  some  gate,  or  other.  It  beats  me,  but  I  suppose 
it  will  be  all  right  at  last." 

We  took  advantage  of  early  hours — our  diary  pro- 
gressed. Leave  nothing  to  memory,  but  that  page  of 
perception,  which  gilds  the  past,  with  a  thousand  golden 
spangles.  The  tints  of  remembrance,  give  more  genial 
hue.  As  a  record  of  truth,  the  facts  must  be  rigidly 
noted ;  they  must  have  instant  impress,  if  they  are  to  be 
of  value. 

One  by  one,  passengers  appear  in  the  saloon  from  their 
cabins.  The  Scotch  tourist  with  a  large  sandy  beard 
enters.  He  was  one  in  search  of  health,  and  had  by 
accident  fallen  thirty-seven  feet,  which  nearly  killed  him. 
Could  not  speak  Norwegian — had  been  very  sea-sick — 
was  going  through  Norway — ^thought  the  fall  had  injured 
iis  head — felt  very  unwell,  and  looked  it. 

We  get  a  cup  of  tea  at  7  "30.  At  eight  o*clock, 
stewards  make  their  appearance,  and  bustle  about.  The 
morning  began  to  clear ;  passengers  assemble  at  break- 
fast in  larger  numbers  and  in  better  spirits.  A  fine  day 
is  expected. 


38  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

Many  inquiries  are  made  after  our  gipsies  and  donkeys. 
The  gipsies  were  still  unwell.  Esmeralda  managed  some 
beefsteak  and  tea  as  she  lay  on  deck.  The  gipsies  had 
our  best  encouragement. 

The  barrister  and  the  officer  recovered  from  the  Roman 
fever  (a  member  of  the  Naval  and  Military  Club)  were 
both  charmed  with  our  gipsies'  names. 

The  officer  especially  so,  and  gave  occasionally,  the 
following  recitation : — 

''  Upon  a  time  it  came  to  pass 

That  these  two  brothers  die  did  ; 
They  laid  Tobias  on  his  back, 
And  Ezekiel  by  his  side  did." 

This  quotation  from  a  popular  song,  was  considered  a 
very  apt  illustration,  of  the  probable  fate,  of  our  two 
gipsies,  Noah  and  Zacharia,  before  the  expedition  was 
ended. 

The  Birmingham  bagman,  was  soon  seen  hovering  on 
the  narrow  bridge,  leading  to  the  forecastle  above  the 
waist  of  the  steamer.  At  times,  .he  leaned  upon  the 
handrail,  and  would  look  down  upon  the  deck  below, 
where  our  gipsies  reclined.  Sometimes  after  gazing  at 
them,  he  made  some  observation  to  Esmeralda.  Occa- 
sionally he  came  to  us,  and  was  exceedingly  anxious 
about  the  donkeys. 

So  frequently  did  he  come,  and  so  many  were  his 
suggestions,  that  at  last  we  began  to  fear,  we  should  be 
in  the  same  melancholy  position,  as  Sinbad  the  Sailor, 
with  the  Old  Man  of  the  Sea. 

The  passengers  seemed  most  pleased  with  the  name  of 
Esmeralda.  The  portly  English  gentleman  said  it  was  a 
gipsy  queen's  name.     The  barrister  often  hummed  an  air 


CHBI8TIAN8AND.  39 

firom  a  favourite  opera  called  "  Esmeralda,"  which  had 
been  brought  out  in  London  that  very  season. 

The  Chevalier  was  in  excellent  spirits  at  dinner.  He 
had  been  engaged  upon  a  diplomatic  mission  to  England. 
We  discovered  ourselves  as  Freemasons,  which  led  to  our 
taking  champagne  together  at  dinner. 

A  yoimg  Norwegian,  who  spoke  English  exceedingly 
well,  and  his  English  wife,  sat  near  us. 

The  day  had  gradually  become  bright  and  lovely.  The 
steamer  approached  Christiansand.  In  the  afternoon,  we 
sighted  its  forts.  The  town  looked  smiling,  as  if  to  wel- 
come us  from  the  ocean.  Several  passengers  were  going 
on  shore :  the  portly  gentleman,  the  oflScer  who  had  had 
the  Roman  fever,  the  Chevalier,  and  ourselves  and  gipsies 
descended  into  a  boat.  The  fare  when  we  landed  was 
16  skillings.  The  officer  was  going  to  some  place  near 
Lyngdal.  We  left  him  at  the  Custom  House,  passing  his 
baggage.  As  he  wished  ourselves,  and  gipsies  good-bye, 
his  last  words  were,  "  Remember,  I  must  have  a  copy  of 
your  book."  We  hope  before  this,  he  has  recovered,  and 
is  able  to  read  these  pages. 

The  houses  of  Christiansand  are  of  wood ;  the  streets 
are  broad,  the  pavement,  when  not  Macadamized,  often 
rough  and  uneven.  The  town  had  wonderftdly  improved 
since  our  last  visit. 

Christiansand  recalled  to  mind  the  time,  when  a  friend 
and  ourself,  once  landed  there  from  England.  We  had 
sailed  in  a  small  fishing-smack,  commanded  by  Captain 
Dixon.  It  was  our  first  visit  to  Norway.  We  stayed 
at  the  Scandinavian  Hotel,  kept  by  Madame  Lemcou- 
The  hotel  was  very  like  a  private  house.  No  one  spoke 
English.     Well,  we  remember  our  difficulties,  and  the 


40  TENT  LIFE   IN  NOMWAY. 

kind  old  inhabitant,  who  called  upon  us.  He  had  no 
doubt  come  to  place  his  knowledge  of  the  country  at  our 
service.  His  stock  of  English  consisted  of  "  your  most 
humble  obedient  servant,"  which  he  often  repeated.  Our 
knowledge  of  Norwegian,  at  that  time  was  in  comparison, 
scarcely  more  extensive,  so  that  our  interview,  ended 
much  as  it  began. 

We  rambled  with  our  gipsies  through  the  town.  It 
was  a  sunny  evening.  The  inhabitants  were  also  en- 
joying their  evening  promenade.  Although  wann,  and 
pleasant,  scarcely  any  of  the  windows  of  the  houses,  were 
opened  for  ventilation.  The  sides  of  the  wooden  houses 
were  often  covered  with  weather-boards,  and  painted. 
Esmeralda,  with  her  dark  raven  hair,  and  eyes ;  Noah, 
with  his  tall  figure  ;  Zacharia  decorated  with  a  flaming 
yellow  "  dicklo ''  (gipsy  handkerchief)  flaunting  round  his 
neck  in  gipsy  fashion,  were  severally  scanned  by  curious 
observers  as  we  passed.  Noah  heard  one  person  say  in 
English,  **  How  healthy-looking  they  are  !  "  We  could 
not  help  being  amused,  at  the  puzzled  expression  of  some, 
not  excepting  several  young  soldiers  we  met. 

We  walked  round  the  cathedral,  which  was  not  im^ 
proved  by  wljiitewash,  and  possessed  no  chef  d'oeuvre 
of  sculptured  ornament,  to  make  us  linger  in  our  con- 
templation. 

The  old  Runic  stohe  in  the  churchyard  of  Oddemoes 
Church,  we  had  before  visited.  Noah — whose  ideas  no 
doubt  connected  most  views  with  sites  for  a  camp — 
pointed  out  one  highly  suitable  on  the  bank  of  the 
Torrisdals  Elv.  Time  wore  away,  and  we  at  length 
made  our  way  quickly  down  to  the  boats,  waiting  at  the 
rough  wooden  piers  of  the  harbour. 


OVERPAYMENT,  41 

We  had  a  boat  to  ourselves.  Esmeralda  sat  with  us 
at  the  stern — her  two  brothers  sat  on  the  seat  opposite. 
As  the  boatman  rowed  us  from  the  shore,  we  thought 
iiow  strangely,  we  wander  through  the  world,  as  we 
follow  the  high  road  of  life.  When  we  reached  the 
AJbion  steamer,  many  passengers  were  looking  over  the 
^ide  of  the  vessel.  We  had  no  small  change,  when  we 
went  on  shore,  but  the  portly  gentleman  kindly  lent  us 
the  necessary  amount.  On  our  return  it  was  necessary 
to  pay  the  boatman.  We  gave  him  the  smallest  change 
we  had,  which  was  a  quarter  of  a  dollar,  and  then 
ascended  the  gangway  with  our  gipsies. 

The  Birmingham  bagman  had  been  watching  us. 
''  Ah  V  said  he,  coming  up,  as  we  stepped  on  deck,  "  why 
you  gave  the  man  too  much.  I  saw  you  give  a  large 
piece  of  silver  to  him.  He  pulled  off  hicj  hat  to  you. 
You  spoil  them."  We  explained  that  we  had  no  change. 
"But,"  said  he,  in  a  state  of  excitement,  "you  spoil 
them."  We  trusted  it  would  do  the  boatman  good,  and 
left  him,  to  communicate  his  ideas  of  pecuniary  compen- 
sation, to  some  one  else. 

This  he  appears  to  have  done ;  for  very  shortly  after 
the  Chevalier  coming  on  board,  grossly  infringed,  the 
bagman^s  scale  of  payment,  and  he  came  in  for  another 
Btorm  of  indignant  remonstrance. 

Monsieur  le  Chevalier,  whose  quiet  humour  nothing 
could  disturb,  asked  the  excited  bagman,  why  he  did 
not  give  the  boatman  the  English  half-crown  he  wanted 
to  get  rid  of?  "Can  you  give  me  any  discount?" 
shouted  the  bagman,  infiiriated.  The  Chevalier  calmly 
answered,  "  Your  appearance  shows  me,  that  you  can 
give  me  nothing  to  discount  upon."     The  bagman  rushed 


42  TENT  LIFE   IN  NORWAY. 

off,  and  we  found  him  some  short  time  after,  when  we 
went  into  our  cabin,  lying  in  his  berth. 

"  I  have  had  a  row  with  that  Dutchman,"  said  he, 
beginning  to  unfold  his  melancholy  history,  when  we 
advised  him  to  mind  his  own  aflfairs,  and  went  on  deck. 

Two  gentlemen    came  on    board   at   Christiansand, 
whom  we  at  once  noted  as  salmon  fishermen.     Both 
were  handsome,   though  slightly  past   the  meridian  of 
life.     One  was  taller  than  his  companion,  with  a  com- 
plexion, darkly  bronzed  in  the  summer's  sun,  and  by 
exposure  to  the  fresh  air.     He  had  been  on  board  a  very 
few  minutes,  when  we  entered  into  conversation.     His 
companion,  and  himself,  had   been  at  Mandal,  salmon- 
fishing,  but  the  weather  was  hot,  and  the  water  low,  and 
clear.     The  largest  salmon  they  had  taken  wag  181bs. 
My  expedition  incidentally  became  partly  known  in  con- 
versation.    He  seemed  much  interested.     We  showed 
him  our  donkeys,  and  he  seemed  to  think  our  expedition 
a  heavy  cost.     Very  shortly  after,  when  we  had  parted, 
our  gipsies  came  on  the  after-deck,  and  said  a  gentleman 
in  a  velvet  jacket  had  sent  for  them.     We  told  them  to 
return,  and  soon  after  saw  Mr.  T.  interrogating  Noah 
on  the  fore-deck.     We  were  rather  annoyed  at  the  time, 
that  any  one  should  send  for  our  people  and  question 
them  as  to  who  their  master  was,  and  his  name.     When 
we  saw  Noah  afterwards,  he  said,  "  I  told  him  nothing, 
sir.     He  asked  your  name,  and  I  told  him  'Harper.'  " 
Afterwards  Mr.  T.  again  joined  us  on  deck,  with  the 
portly  gentleman  and  the  ban-ister  in  search  of  health. 
Mr.  T.  was  afraid  of  sleeping  on  the  ground,  and  having 
rheumatism.     He  mentioned  an   American   method — a 
kind  of  frame  which  kept  you  completely  off  the  grouud, 


NORWEGIAN  SNAKES.  43 

and  folded  into  a  small  compass.  We  described  our 
tent,  and  many  questions  were  asked  about  our  method 
of  camping,  which  we  explained.  Most  seemed  very 
anxious  to  know,  how  we  became  acquainted  with  our 
gipsies.  But  we  merely  said  that  our  interest  in  the 
kut-dwelling  races,  had  thrown  us  in  contact  with  them. 
The  portly  gentleman  informed  us  that  a  species  of  viper 
existed  in  Norway,  but  the  snakes  were  not  numerous. 
He  said  he  was  once  in  the  Thelemarken  *  district,  and 
having  put  up  the  horses  in  a  shed,  he  lay  down  on  the 
turf.  Some  time  afterwards  when  he  got  up,  a  small 
viper,  was  found  clinging  to  his  coat,  which,  falling  off, 
the  peasants  cut  it  into  pieces  and  burnt  each  piece 
separately,  since  they  have  an  idea  that  if  the  pieces 
get  together,  the  viper  can  piece  itself  again.  When  he 
afterwards  got  into  his  carriole  to  continue  his  journey, 
he  felt  a  shivering  sensation  between  his  shoulders  most 
of  the  day.  Mr.  T.  asked  a  variety  of  questions,  about 
our  commissariat,  and  what  we  were  taking,  and  seemed 
much  interested  in  the  expedition.  We  gave  him  the 
best  information  we  could.  He  was  one  of  the  best 
types  of  an  Englishman  we  met  with  in  Norway. 

The  passengers  began  to  recover.  The  steamer  had 
been  nearly  two  days  at  sea.  The  evening  was  beautiful. 
We  had  been  charmed  with  the  rocks  tinged  with  reddish 
hue,  rising  in  picturesque  outline,  from  the  Topdals  Fjord. 
The  fringed  pine  woods  of  the  shore,  were  mirrored  upon 
the  almost  motionless  water,  of  the  Norwegian  frith. 

The  passengers  were  now  more  numerous  at  tea.  Some 
ladies  joined  us.  All  were  looking  forward  to  their  arrival 
the  next  morning  at  Christiania. 

*  Sometimes  spelt  Telemarken. 


41  TENT   LIFE   lH   NORWAY. 

It  was  delicious  as  we  strolled  on  deck.  What  a 
pleasant  freedom  there  is  upon  the  sea,  away  from  the 
hum,  and  noise,  of  the  great  human  struggle,  of  many 
minds,  in  populous  cities !  What  bitterness  and  strife, 
misery  and  evil,  we  had  left  far  behind  us ! 

Ah  we  paced  the  deck  in  the  delightful  contemplation, 
of  a  summer's  eve  at  sea,  we  could  not  help  noticing, 
Mr.  C.  and  his  wife,  with  the  Tyrolese  hat  and  feather. 
They  were  seated  side  by  side  on  the  deck,  with  their 
backs  towards  us.  In  silence,  they  appeared  lost  in 
happy  contemplation.  The  surrounding  light  of  circum- 
stances seemed  to  say,  "  We  are  one ! "   How  pleasurable 


should  be  the  feelings  of  two  liearts  firmly  united,  hold- 
ing, as  it  were,  silent  communion  with  each  other.  By 
a  few  touches  of  the  pencil,  in  our  small  note-book,  we 
caught  their  outline.  We  felt  %ve  were  in  the  hallowed 
precincts  of  true  love,  and  retired  to  another  part  of  the 
vessel,  lest  we  should  disturb  their  happy  dream. 

We  again  lounged  near  the  man  at  the  helm.     There 
stood  the  sailor,  with  his  compass  before  him,  aa  the 


aOLDEN  OPINIONS,  45 

vessel  glided  onwards  from  England's  shore.  This  sea- 
man was  not  one  of  our  former  friends,  but  he  was  a 
rough,  honest-looking,  thick-set,  hardy  fellow;  one  of 
those  men,  who  carry  honesty  written  in  their  counte- 
nance. "  Well,  sir,  I  hope  you  will  have  a  pleasant  time 
of  it,"  said  he.  We  thanked  him  for  his  good  wishes, 
"  That  young  lady,''  continued  he,  alluding  to  Esmeralda 
"  has  had  more  than  one  talking  to  her.  There's  that 
one,  sir,"  said  he,  looking  towards  the  Birmingham 
bagman,  who  was  walking  about  in  the  distance,  with 
his  hands  thrust  deep  in  his  trousers'  pockets  as  usual ; 
"  and  there's  another  that  is  just  gone.  But  she  is  not 
oue  of  that  sort ;  she  let  them  go  so  far,  and  then  she 
stopped  them  short.  She's  a  very  good  young  girl.  They 
have  had  a  good  education ; "  and  he  gave  his  wheel 
another  tug,  as  if  to  clinch  the  observation. 


CHAPTER  YI. 

"  Fne  M  tlie  vinds  tlut  tlinnigh  the  forest  nuh— 

Wild  as  the  flowen  that  bj  the  way-side  blush. 
'  Childxen  of  natme-^iaiideriiig  to  and  fro, 

Man  knows  not  whence  je  come,  nor  where  ye  go. 

like  foreign  weeds  cut  np  on  western  strands, 

Whieh  sionny  waTcs  have  borne  from  unknown  lands ; 

like  mnrmnzing  shells  to  fsncy's  ear  that  tell 

The  mystic  secrets  of  their  ocean  cell." 

TktGiptia,    I>EAH  Staklkt's  Prize  Pom. 

^ARIXra's  UFK — ^THB  EVASIVB  ANSWER — A,  TRUE  PRESENTIMENT — THE 
KINO  OF  SWEDKH  AND  NORWAY— THE  BEAUTIFUL  FJORI>— GIPSY 
XUSIC — A  CUSIOM-ROUSB  DI7FICULTT — ANOTHER  FREEMASON — AP- 
PSOPBIATB      TSBSKS  —  CHRI8TIANIA  —  HORSE      MONET  —  17,       STORE 


The  stewards  were  excellent.     One  had  been  ship- 
wrecked several  times.     "Rough  work  in  winter,  sir. 
Most  on  the  line  get  lost     At  Hull  most  of  the  young 
men  who  go  to  sea  are  drowned."  Not  very  encouraging 
information,  thought  we,  but  such  are  the  chances  of  a 
seaman's  life.    Having  sent  our  gipsies  to  bed,  we  retired 
om^selves.     About  twelve  o'clock  our  first  doze  was  dis- 
turbed by  a  noise  in  our  cabin.     Looking  round,  we  saw 
the  bagman  with  a  bottle  in  his  hand.     He  was  taking 
Laniplough's  pyretic  saline,  which  he  strongly  recom- 
mo»»^  ^  i^^  headache,  or  to  set  you  right  after  drinking. 
A  is  draught,  he  disappeared  into  his  berth. 

(i  T  was  66°,  with  both  port-holes  open. 

^mmended    to    look   out  for   beautiful 


A  TRUE  PRESENTIMENT.  *' 

scenery,  at  about  seven  o'clock  the  next  morning.  When 
we  went  on  deck,  at  an  early  hour,  the  weather  was  damp 

and  cloudy. 

Some  time  afterwards  we  had  a  chat  on  deck,  with  our 
f  llow-passenger  the  barrister.     He  was  going  to  Chris- 
tiania  and  from  thence  by  the  coast  steamer  to  the  North 
Cape.'    The  coast  excursion  is  a  very  pleasbg  one.    Our 
fellow-passenger  was  full  of  anecdotes  and  mfonnation. 
Mr.  T.,  after  examining  our  gipsy,  Noah,  had  said  to  the- 
barrister,  "  I  find  that  tl»e  gentleman's  name  is  Harper." 
"  You  are  quite  in  error,  I  can  assure  you,"  said  th<' 
barrister,  "  the  gipsies  have  only  been  cramming  you." 
Mr.  T.  appeared  much  astonished,  and  we  sad  it  was 
only  what  he  could  expect ;  and,  although  not  done  in- 
tentionally, it  was  not  exactly  the  right  way  to  acquire 
information ;  and  any  one  doing  so  would  not  get  much 
for  their  trouble.     We  had  risen  at  four  o'clock.     Our 
portly  fellow-passenger,  was  also  up  soon  after,  and  wish- 
ing us  good-bye,  descended  with  his  portmanteau  into  a 
boat,  and  left;  the  steamer.     This  he  did  to  save  time, 
not  wishmg  to  go  to  Christiania.    We  found  afterwards 
that  a  young  Norwegian  in  the  second  cabin,  would  have 
gladly  availed  hnnself  of  the  same  boat.-   He  had  been 
absent  eight  years  firom  his  home,  and  fiiends,  and  was 
anxious  to  see  them  as  soon  as  possible. 

When  he  afterwards  arrived  at  Christiania,  he  said,  "  I 
have  a  dread,  that  I  shall  hear  some  bad  news."  After  a 
short  absence  from  the  steamer,  he  again  returned.  His 
worst  fears  were  but  too  true,  and  he  sat  down,  and  cried 
very  much.  Such  are  the  melancholy  scenes  of  life, 
meeting  us  at  every  turn,  and  sadly  remind  us,  of  the 
short  existence  of  all  things  m  this  world. 


48  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

The  early  morning  was  rather  damp  and  wet.  The 
passengers  were  up  in  good  time.  Our  gipsies  we  found 
as  gay  and  sprightly,  as  they  had  been  before  ill,  and 
prostrate.  Mr.  T.  still  seemed  delighted  with  our  expe- 
dition, and  visited  from  time  to  time  our  gipsies,  with  his 
friend,  whom  we  took  for  his  brother.  We  mustered 
well  at  breakfast,  under  the  presidency,  of  our  polite 
captain.  When  we  had  finished,  and  returned  on  deck, 
our.  title  to  be  recognised  as  an  accepted  mason,  after  a 
very  rigid  and  searching  ordeal,  was  at  length  acknow- 
ledged, by  Monsieur  le  Chevalier,  who  was  exceedingly 
particular. 

From  various  circumstances,  we  had  not  been  lately  to 
our  lodge  in  London.  We  still  retained  pleasant  remi- 
niscences of  former  visits,  and  especially  of  our  reception, 
at  those  Lodges  we  once  visited  in  Paris,  with  our  old 
friend  the  Chevalier  M.*  His  Majesty  the  King  of  Sweden 
and  Norway  is  now  one  of  the  most  distinguished  masons 
in  Europe.  May  he  long  hold  the  proud  position,  of  being 
a  monarch,  whose  power  rests  upon  the  aflfections,  of  a 
free,  and  noble-hearted  people.! 

The  conversation  at  breakfast,  was  lively  and  animated. 

*  Csesar  Moreau,  Chevalier  de  la  Legion  d'Honneor,  was  the  author  of 
'  Precis  BUT  la  Franc-Ma9onnerie ;  son  Oiigine,  son  Histoiie,  ses  Doctrines^ 
&c"  Also  the  founder  of  the  Soci^t^  de  Statistique  UniverseUe,  et  de 
TAcad^mie  de  Tlndustrie  Fian9ai8e ;  also  Member  of  the  Royal  Society, 
and  many  other  learned  societies  in  Europe. 

t  His  Majesty,  the  noble-hearted  Carl  XV.,  patron  of  literature  and 
art,  himself  an  author,  was  bom  3rd  May,  1826,  and  died,  after  a  severe 
illnesR,  in  the  noontide  of  his  life,  at  Malmoe,  in  Sweden,  on  the  IStli 
September,  1872,  mourned  and  sincerely  regretted  by  his  attached  subjects. 
The  King  was  the  eldest  son  of  Oscar  I.,  and  grandson  of  the  celebrated 
French  General  Bernadotte,  Prince  of  Ponte  ,Corvo,  who  ascended  the 
throne  in  1818  as  Carl  XIV.  His  Majesty  Carl  XY.  was  buried  on  the  9th 
October,  1872,  in  Ritterholm  Church,  and  is  succeeded  by  his  brother,  the 
Duke  of  Ostergdtland,  under  the  title  of  Oscar  II. 


GIPSY  MUSIC.  49 

Most  of  the  passengers  were  in  good  spirits,  and  seemed 
delighted  witli  the  bright  anticipations,  of  their  approach- 
ing wanderings,  over  fjeld  and  fjord.  Even  the  Birming- 
ham bagman  was  better,  and  we  noticed  him,  at  some 
distance  from  us,  feeding  Ins  beard,  in  a  most  reckless 
maimer  with  egg. 

WTiat  a  delightful  scene  presented  itself  after  break- 
fast !  From  the  steamer's  deck,  we  gazed  on  the  beautiful 
fjord,  calm  and  glistening  in  the  sun.  The  cloudy  morn- 
ing was  now  changed — all  was  lovely,  and  filled  the  heart 
with  a  dreamy  sensation  of  pleasure.  Rocky  shores, 
wooded  islands,  secluded  maisonettes,  and  dark  pine 
woods,  extended  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  into  the 
l^oimdless  distance  of  endless  woodland — one  eternity  of 
nature,  which  reminded  us  of  the  stanza : — 

"  There  is  a  pleasure  in  the  pathless  woods ; 
There  is  a  rapture  on  the  lonely  shore  ; 
There  is  society  where  none  intrudes 
By  the  deep  sea,  and  music  in  its  roar.'' 

Soon  after  breakfast  Mr.  T.  came  to  us,  and  said,  "  I 
have  asked  your  young  man  to  play  his  violin,  and  he 
very  properly  says  he  cannot  do  so,  without  your  permis-  . 
sion."  Mr.  T.  was  anxious  to  hear  them  play;  we  there- 
fore at  once  gave  our  consent.  Noah  came  for  one  of 
the  Regent  Street  tambourines,  then  in  our  cabin,  and  in 
a  very  short  time  the  gay  sounds  of  violin  and  tambourine, 
were  heard  in  the  Christiania  Fjord.  Our  gipsies  were 
grouped  below  the  fore-deck,  the  sun  was  shining.  The 
travellers  and  sailors  seemed  much  amused.  "  Why  you 
are  travelling  with  your  band !  *'  said  some  of  the  pas- 
sengers. Nor  shall  we  forget  the  tall  form  of  our  gipsy, 
Noah,  with  his  hat  placed  jauntily  on  one  side  his  head, 
as  he  rattled  the  tambourme,  with  a  verve,  and  feeling 


60  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

which  only  one,  of  wild,  strong  passions  can  do.  Mr.  T. 
came  up.  "  I  like  your  idea  very  much,"  said  he ;  "  and 
I  suppose  that  young  gipsy  girl,  will  cook  for  you.  I 
admire  her  boots ;  they  are  something  like  boots.  What 
a  difference,''  whispered  he,  as  a  genteel,  ladylike 
passenger,  passed  near,  whose  small,  thin,  elaborately- 
worked,  fashionable  boots,  with  high  heels,  and  small 
rosettes,  just  above  the  toes,  certainly  did  not  appear, 
fitted  to  promote,  the  elasticity  of  the  footstep,  or  comfort 
of  the  wearer,  among  the  Norwegian  fjelds  and  fjords. 

Then  we  had  much  speculation  as  to  the  astonishment 
of  the  Norwegian  people,  when  they  saw  our  donkeys. 
We  were  informed  that  the  Chevalier's  father,  had  once 
possessed  the  only  donkey  in  Norway.  This  animal  had 
long  since  been  dead,  and  Norway  had  been  left  without 
a  single  donkey  in  all  the  land.  Some  said  we  ought  to 
make  a  charge  for  exhibiting  them  to  the  peasantry,  and 
an  animated  discussion  took  place,  as  to  the  amount  'of 
duty  to  be  paid,  before  they  could  be  landed.  One  said 
it  would  be  the  same  as  upon  horses  ;  another  said  that . 
the  duty  could  not  be  the  same  as  upon  horses,  and 

» 

they  would  have  nothing  to  pay.  Some  passengers  ex- 
pressed an  opinion,  that  they  would  have  to  pass  a  law  in 
the  Storthing,  to  assess  the  amount  of  duty,  before  we 
could  possibly  land  them,  and  it  might  cost  us  201.  to  get 
them  through. 

As  we  approached  Christiania,  and  our  voyage  was 
nearly  over,  we  had  our  account  to  discharge  with  the 
stewards.  Our  gipsies  cost  quite  a  fortune.  If  they  had 
been  ill  at  first,  their  appetites  must  have  been  ravenous, 
towards  the  close  of  the  voyage.  The  steward  had  been 
told,  to  let  them  have  everything  they  wanted  to  eat,  and 


A   FREEMASOy.  51 

to  drink ;  we  could  not,  therefore,  say  much,  so  settled 
the  bill.  Both  stewards,  hoped  we  should  come  back  in 
tlie  same  vessel,  and  took  some  trouble  to  give  us  the 
dates  of  sailing,  from  Christiansaiid.  It  was  then  our 
mteution  to  take  the  steamer  from  Christiansand,  at  the 
end  of  the  summer. 

We  met  with  another  freemason  on  the  morning  we 
landed  at  Christiania,  whom  we  beheve  was  chief  en- 
gineer— a   very   stout-built  man,  with  a  kind,  amiable 
disposition,  whose  every  word  rang,  of  open-heartedness, 
and  benevolence.     He  had  a  jolly,  merry  wife,  and  a 
French  poodle  dog,  which,  of  course,  begged,  and  was  as 
intelligent,  as  those  animals  usually  are.     We  became 
very  good  friends.   Before  we  landed  he  gave  us  a  news- 
paper, containing  some  verses,  which,  if  we   remember 
right,  were  written   by  some  man   going  to  be  hung. 
Unfortunately,  we  have  mislaid  the  gift.     Our  friend  said 
the  verses  had  struck  his  wife,  and  himself,    as  being 
most  appropriate  to  the  wanderings  of  ourself,  and  the 
young  people.     They  wished  us  all  success,  which  we 
sincerely  reciprocated. 

In  the  second  cabin  there  was  also  a  sea  captain,  and 
his  wife,  from  AustraUa — very  kind  people  to  our 
gipsies ;  in  fact,  we  could  not  help  feeling,  some  tinge  of 
regret,  that  we  were  so  soon  to  leave.  Yet  we  were  on 
the  threshold  of  camp.Ufe.  We  were  about  to  continue 
our  former  wanderings.  The  thread  broken  elsewhere, 
was  to  be  resumed  in  Norway.  We  must  admit,  that 
the  allurements  of  fresh  scenes  of  nomadic  life,  softened 
our  separation,  and  gave  us  new  hopes  for  the  approach- 
ing campaign. 
Our  baggage  was  mounted  on  deck,  as  we  approached 

E  2 


62  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

Christiania.  Very  soon  we  had  the  city  of  Christiania 
in  full  view,  with  the  King's  palace,  and  castle  of  Agers- 
huus.*  We  could  scarcely  account  for  the  feeling,  but 
Christiania  seemed  to  wear  a  pleasant,  homelike  aspect, 
which  we  liked.  It  was  probably  eleven  o'clock  when 
the  steamer  arrived.  A  number  of  the  inhabitants  had 
arrived  on  the  pier.  Mr.  Bennett  was  there.  Time  had 
favoured  him,  for  he  looked  stronger,  and  we  might  say 
younger,  than  when  we  were  last  at  Christiania.  One 
of  the  first  incidents  before  landing  was  a  solicitation  for 
horse-money.  It  seems  to  be  a  kind  of  payment  cus- 
tomary for  the  benefit  of  the  sailors ;  and  it  was  hoped 
that  the  donkeys,  although  not  horses,  would  still  entitle 
the  sailors  to  its  payment.  Wc  had  enjoyed  such  a  plea- 
sant voyage,  and  were  in  such  good  temper,  with  all 
on  board,  that  we  did  not  raise  any  objection  to  the 
remuneration. 

What  a  quaint,  foreign-looking  court-yard  you  enter 
as  you  seek  Mr.  Bennett.  Numbers  of  carrioles  are 
crowded  together  at  the  end  of  the  court,  ready  for 
distant  journeys.  Then  you  ascend  some  steps,  to  a 
wooden  balcony,  and  enter  his  suite  of  rooms.  One  large 
room  is  completely  full  of  Norwegian  silver  relics — 
tankards,  belts  of  a  past  age,  carvings,  paintings,  en- 
gravings, photographs  of  Norwegian  scenery,  maps, 
books,  and  all  sorts  of  articles,  illustrative  of  the  manners, 
and  customs  of  the  Norwegians,  of  ancient  and  modern 
time.     We  seem  to  have  wandered  into  a  dream-land 

•  Hoyland,  the  Robin  Hood  of  Nor\i'ay,  after  three  years'  patient  perse- 
verance, effected  a  clever  escape,  from  the  Agershuas.  Being  again  retaken 
afterwards,  he  ultimately  died,  within  the  walls  of  this  castle.  It  is  said 
that  some  of  his  treasure  is  still  buried  in  the  fjelds  of  Norway,  where  he 
had  deposited,  his  spoils  for  safety. 


17,  SfOHE  SfRANDOADE.  53 

of  ancient  sagas,  and  ten  to  one  you  meet  other  spirits 
who  are  doing  the  same. 

Mr.  Bennett,  the  presiding  genius  of  the  place,  had 
probably  ceased  to  be  astonished  at  any  mode  of  travel- 
ling an  Englishman  might  adopt.  Williams  had  landed 
with  his  knapsack,  which  resulted  in  an  interesting  work, 
having  the  additional  value,  of  giving  a  correct  entry,  of 
the  expenses  of  his  expedition.  MacGregor  came  eti 
route  to  Sweden,  with  his  canoe,  and  wrote  another 
interesting  work.  Now  an  Englishman  comes  with 
gipsies  and  donkeys  !  What  next  ?  *  The  worthy  Eng- 
lish consul,  and  chargerd^ affaires^  who  so  well  represents 
our  country,  was  absent  from  Christiania,  but  we  were 
introduced  to  his  son.  When  he  heard  of  our  retinue, 
grave  doubts  as  to  our  safety,  apparently  crossed  hia 
mind.  He  seemed  to  think  it  improbable,  we  should 
return  to  our  friends.  It  could  scarcely  be  expected,  that 
Mr.  Bennett  could  advise  us,  upon  the  best  camping 
grounds,  but  we  must  ever  feel  grateful  remembrance  to 
him,  for  the  trouble  he  took,  to  pass  our  things  through 
the  Custom-house,  and  forward  those  left  behind  to 
Eidsvold. 

The  cicerone  provided  for  us  by  the  Chevalier,  dined  with 
US  at  the  Victoria  Hotel,  Raadhuusgaden.  The  day  was 
lovely.  We  found  some  of  our  fellow-passengers,  already 
seated  at  the  tahle  d'hdte. 

*  Two  intrepid  French  travellers  afterwards  landed  from  their  ballooD, 
"  La  Ville  d'Orleans."  Captain  Rolier  and  Emile  Cartailliac,  during  the 
siege'of  Paris,  ascended  from  that  city,  on  the  night  of  the  24th  November, 
1870j  and  after  a  perilous  voyage  of  adventure,  across  the  sea,  they  ulti- 
mately descended  in  Norway,  on  the  snows  of  the  Lidfjeld,  in  the  Thele- 
ntarken.  The  two  aeronauts  received  shelter,  and  assistance  from  the  two 
mountaineers,  Clas  and  Harold  Strand ;  and  with  the  welcome  and  hos- 
pitality of  an  ever-generous  people,  they  were  enabled  to  leave  Christiania, 
and  reach  in  safety  their  native  land. 


CHAPTEE  Vn. 

'*  Gipsies,  although  long  foi^otten,  and  despised,  have  claims  which 
we  must  not  resist.  Their  eternal  destinies,  their  residence  in  our  own 
land,  point  us  to  a  line  of  conduct  we  ought  to  pursue.  They  show 
that  Crod  expects  us,  to  be  interested  for  them,  and  to  impart  to  them, 
the  crumbs  which  fall  from  our  table.'* 

**  The  GipsUn.**    By  a  Clergyman  of  the  Church  of  England. 

THE  VICl'ORIA  HOTEL— THE  gipsies' FRIEND — THE  PAS8E-PABT0UT— PRESTEN 
EILERT  SUNDT — ^THE  CHRI8TIANIA  RAILWAY— OUR  DONKEYS  APPRE- 
CIATED—  GIPSY  SPIRIT  —  THE  "TOLK" — NORWEGIAN  MONEY — LIN- 
GUISTIC DIFFICUTIES — GIPSY  AUTHORS — GIPSY  NUMERALS— DEPARTURE 
FROM  CHRISTIANIA. 

There  is  often  a  pleasant  sociability  at  a  table  d^hdte. 
Mr.  T.  was  there,  the  invalid  barrister,  the  tall  Scotch- 
nian,  and  other  travellers.  Nor  was  the  Bu'mingham 
bagman  absent,  as  the  background  to  throw  out  the 
lively  tints  of  life's  experience.  Mr.  T.  and  the  hamster 
sat  near  us.  Mr.  T.  was  delighted  with  our  plan  of 
seeing  -Norway,  saying  it  was  just  what  he  should  like. 
Time  passed  quickly.  We  hastily  terminated  our  dmner, 
with  some  excellent  Chateau-de-la-Rose  claret,  and  then 
bade  our  fellow-travellers  farewell.  As  we  left  the  table, 
we  saw  the  Birmingham  bagman  mournfully  contemplat- 
ing his  fork.  Whether  he  was  going  to  use  it  as  a 
toothpick,  or  whether  he  was  calculating  its  cost,  or 
whether  he  was  hesitating,  as  to  the  possibility  of  sleep- 
ing in  a  tent  without  a  bed,  we  know  not.     Whatever 


THE  GIPSIES'  FRIEND.  65 

his  thoughts  may  have  been,  we  could  have  no  un- 
friendly feeling  at  parting,  especially  after  his  extreme 
anxiety  for  the  comfort  of  our  donkeys,  his  admiration  of 
Esmeralda's  dark  eyes,  and  his  liberal  oflFer,  to  take  two 
copies  of  our  book.  Be  this  as  it  may,  we  trust  by  some 
mysterious  method  of  calculation,  he  will  make  a  hand- 
some profit  to  himself. 

We  found  that  Presten  Eilert  Sundt  had  not  yet  re- 
moved to  Eidsvold.  The  Chevalier  kindly  gave  us  a  letter 
of  introduction  to  him,  and  we  drove  at  once  to  his  resi- 
dence in  the  suburbs  of  Christiania,  which  we  reached  at 
about  four  o'clock.  Ascending  a  large  staircase,  in  a  few 
minutes  we  were  shown  into  Presten  Sundt's  sitting- 
room.  The  "  gipsies'  friend  "  was  seated  at  his  writing- 
table,  with  his  books,  papers,  and  various  accessories, 
indicating  active,  and  literary  tastes.  We  met  as  two 
spirits,  who,  though  taking  far  separate  paths  in  life,  had 
the  same  results  in  view — ^the  same  end  to  accomplish. 
Nor  could  we  help  being  impressed  with  the  energy 
written  so  strongly  on  his  countenance.  His  forehead 
surmounted  by  thick,  bristly  hair,  gave  additional  deter- 
mination, to  an  expressive  look,  tempered  by  gleams  of 
strong  feeling.  Then  we  discovered  the  combination  of 
great  energy,  with  a  deep  interest  in  the  welfare  of  his 
fellow-men.  When  Presten  Sundt  had  read  the  Cheva- 
lier's letter,  we  at  once  explained  that  our  time  was 
limited,  and  we  should  shortly  take  the  train  from  Chris- 
tiania  to  Eidsvold.  Many  were  his  inquiries  about  the 
English  gipsies.  The  Norwegian  gipsies,  he  said,  were 
difi&cult  to  meet  with.  Presten  Sundt,  said  a  traveller 
had  called  upon  him  last  year  when  he  was  from  home ; 
Mrs.  Sundt  received  the  visitor,  who  said  he  was  much 


56  TENT  LIFE  IS  HORWAY, 

interested  in  gipsies,  and  before  he  left  gave  the  name  of 
Viscount  Monroe.  Presten  Siindt  showed  us  the  works 
he  had  written,  and  their  practical  value  cannot  be  too 
highly  estimated.  Foreseeing  the  many  difficulties,  our 
small  gipsy  party  might  encounter,  in  a  strange  country, 
Presten  Sundt  wrote  out,  signed,  and  sealed  a  document 
which  he  delivered  to  us.  It  was  a  kind  oi passe-partout, 
requesting  his  countrymen  at  all  times  to  give  us  aid 
and  assistance,  and  a  kindly  reception  was  ensured.    The 


name  of  Presten  Eilert  Sundt,  was  so  well  known,  in  the 
length,  and  breadth,  of  Norway's  land,  that  a  few  words 
were  the  "  open  sesame  "  of  our  excursion,  and  possessed 
a  talismanic  value,  we  must  always  appreciate.  Presten 
Eilert  Sundt  introduced  us  to  Mrs.  Sundt  and  his  son. 
Coffee  was  brought  in,  but,  alas!  our  time  liad  expired. 
Presten  Sundt  regretted  our  hasty  departure,  and  suddenly 
decided  to  accompany  us  to  the  station  and  bring  his  son. 
We  all  stepped  into   tJie  carriage,  still   in  waiting,  and 


TEE  CBRISTIANIA   RAILWAY.  57 

drove  towards  the  station.  En  route  our  conversation 
was  continued  upon  the  subject  of  jfipsies.  We  sug- 
;;ested^  that  in  order  to  utilise  the  energy,  and  ability  of 
tlie  gipsy  race,  those  paths  in  life,  should  be  selected,  in 
harmony  with  their  previous  habits.  The  descendants  of 
[generations  of  tent-dwellers,  could  not  be  turned  into 
lairengroes^  or  house-dwellers,  by  a  wave  of  the  hand. 
Their  employnaent  must  be  consistent  with  their  inborn, 
and  inherent  attachment,  to  the  pure  air  of  heaven.  The 
rain  poured  down  in  torrents,  as  we  drove  up  to  the 
station,  and  entered  the  salle  (Tattente.  At  first  we 
could  not  see  anything  of  our  people,  though  the  hour  of 
departure  was  near  at  hand.  As  we  waited  in  the  salle 
iattente^  Presten  Sundt  pointed  to  a  map  of  Norway,  hang- 
ing on  the  wall.  It  was  the  "  Reisekart  over  Norges," 
in  two  sheets.  Presten  Sundt  recommended  the  map,  as 
being  coloured  to  indicate  the  cultivated,  and  inclosed 
portions  of  the  country,  so  that  we  could  distinguish  with 
tolerable  accuracy,  the  wild  and  open  districts,  likely  to 
form  our  most  convenient  camping-grounds.  Whilst 
there  was  yet  time,  Presten  Sundt's  son  kindly  purchased 
one  for  us. 

At  length  we  found  our  cicerone  in  the  left-luggage 
office.  He  had  acted  the  part  of  pilot,  to  enable  the 
gipsies  and  donkeys  to  reach  the  station.  The  donkeys 
had  been  the  centre  of  considerable  interest  to  the  in- 
habitants of  Christiania  that  day.  Multitudes  thronged 
on  board  the  Albion  steamer.  The  deck  was  trodden 
and  tramped  by  an  animated  people,  anxious  to  inspect 
the  new  arrivals.  The  gipsies  must  have  felt  some  slight 
d^ee  of  envy  upon  the  occasion.  This  curiosity  of  the 
inhabitants   was  only  natural,  when   we   consider   that 


58  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

they  had  never  seen  any  donkeys  before,  and  they  were 
quite  as  likely  to  excite  special  interest,  as  the  hippo- 
potamus we  well  remember  in  the  Zoological  Gardens, 
Regent's  Park.  Can  we  forget  the  intensity  of  the 
moment,  when  it  rose  to  the  surface  of  its  tank,  and  its 
nose,  was  distinguished  for  a  few  moments  above  water  ? 
Can  we  forget  the  satisfaction  of  impatient  crowds  of 
visitors,  when  such  an  event  occurred?  If  we  could 
know  the  discussions  respecting  our  donkeys,  they  would 
doubtless  be  most  instructive — a  tome  of  literature, 
added  to  the  natural  history  of  the  animal  kingdom. 
The  animals  were  pulled  about  from  nose  to  tail.  Their 
ears  were  pulled — a  particular  part  of  the  back,  was 
pressed  with  [the  thumb,  to  gauge  their  strength ;  their 
mouths  opened,  their  teeth  examined,  their  fore-legs 
smoothed  down  with  many  hands.  One  of  the  sailors 
being  asked  what  he  called  them,  answered,  "  Rabbits," 
and  pointing  to  the  "  Puru  Pawnee,"  informed  them 
that  she  was  the  mother  of  all  rabbits.  No  rest  had  the 
animals,  and  sorely  puzzled  they  must  have  been,  to 
make  out  what  it  was  all  about.  The  sailors  could  with 
difficulty  manage  to  wash  the  decks.  At  length,  one, 
either  by  accident,  or  intentio^,  gave  the  crowd  a  sudden 
shower-bath  with  the  ship's  hose,  bringing  forth  ejacula- 
tions, which  my  gipsies  did  not  understand.  Multitudes 
of  pocket-handkerchiefs,  removed  the  moist  results,  as 
our  friends  precipitately  left  the  vessel. 

Our  time  had  been  so  occupied,  that  we  could  not 
return  to  the  steamer  before  the  evening  train.  The 
gipsies  had  remained  on  board  during  the  day  in  charge 
of  the  donkeys.  They  expected  us  from  hour  to  hour. 
Esmeralda  informed  us  afterwards,  that  they  had  alm'ost 


GIPSY  SPIRIT.  59 

given  ns  up,  we  were  so  long.  Before  they  left  for  the 
railway-station,  Mr.  T.  and  the  invalid  barrister  had 
been  to  the  steamer  to  inquire  after  their  master,  and 
joked  them  about  onr  absence.  "What  shall  you  do, 
now  your  master  is  gone  away  ?  "  Upon  which  Esme- 
ralda answered,  "  My  word,  I  shall  let  him  know  what 
it  is  staying  in  this  way ;  I  shall  speak  my  mind.^'  "  You 
must  keep  your  master  under,"  said  Mr.  T.  "  Yes,  I 
will,"  said  Esmeralda,  with  assumed  indignation,  which 
caused  much  laughter.  Yet,  with  all  her  wild  spirit, 
we  had  no  cause  to  complain  of  want  of  obedience  in 
Esmeralda.  Many  long,  long  miles,  we  afterwards  walked 
together,  and  we  must  always  remember  her  willing 
attention,  in  our  hours  of  camp  life.  When  our  gipsies 
saw  us  at  the  station,  their  eyes  lighted  up  with  a 
thousand  smiles. 

On  board  the  Albion^  a  young  man  oflFered  his  services 
as  an  interpreter,  or  "  Tolk,"  as  they  are  designated  in 
Norway.  We  were  afterwards  accosted  in  the  street,  by 
a  smart-looking  fellow,  much  more  fit  for  a  butler,  than 
a  campaigner,  who  also  wished  to  accompany  us.  We 
declined  their  aid,  preferring  for  the  present  to  trust 
to  our  own  resources,  rather  than  make  any  addition  to 
our  party. 

Our  donkeys,  notwithstanding  the  various  opinions 
expressed,  were  allowed  to  land  without  any  duty  being 
charged.  Mr.  Bennett  kindly  arranged  for  the  railway 
tickets,  and  procured  for  us  the  amount  of  small  money 
we  required.  Every  traveller  is  obliged  to  take  a  good 
supply  of  small  coin.  It  is  not  very  easy  to  get  change 
out  of  large  towns  in  Norway.  Mr.  Bennett's  Guide 
Book  gives  complete  information  as  to  the  various  small 


60  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOB  WAY. 

coins  in  circulation,  and  their  actual  value.  Some  are 
depreciated,  to  less  than  the  amount  marked  upon  them. 
Thus:  eight-skilling  pieces,  with  the  crown  itnd  '  F.R.VI.' 
on  the  reverse,  are  now  only  worth  six  skillings;  and 
four-skilling  pieces,  with  the  same  reverse  are  only  worth 
three  skillings.  This  is  often  perplexing  at  the  commence- 
ment of  a  Norwegian  tour. 

NORWEGIAN   MONEY. 

1  skilling  .  .  .  equals  nearly  a  halfpenny. 
24  skillings         equal  a  mark  or  ort,  or  lOf  c?. 
5  marks  or  orts    „      a  specie  dollar  or  45.  S^d. 
There  are  dollar  notes.     One  (een),  variegated  coloured 
paper ;  five  (fem),  blue ;    ten  (ti),  yellow ;   fifty  (femti), 
green  ;  one  hundred  dollars  (hundrede  dollars),  pink. 

Immediately  Presten  Sundt  caught  sight  of  our 
gipsies  at  the  station,  he  commenced  speaking  in  the 
Romany  language.  He  tried  their  knowledge  of  Romany 
numerals.  Noah,  we  believed,  failed  at  five  or  six.  Their 
reckoning  powers  are  not  of  high  order,  especially  as 
they  are  unable  to  read  and  write. 

Baudrmiont,  in  his  work  containing  a  vocabulary  of 
the  gipsy  language,  spoken  by  gipsies  wandering  in  the 
French  territory  of  the  Basque  Provinces,  says,  the  gipsy 
women  he  questioned  say  "  jec"  for  one,  "doui "  for  two, 
and  they  did  not  know  any  liigher  numeral,  using  beyond 
two,  "  bSter  "  (bouter)  signifying  "  much."  * 

*  Colonel  Harriot,  whose  collection  of  Romany  words  is,  we  believe,  prin- 
cipally obtained  from  the  gipsies  of  the  New  Forest  of  Hampshire,  gives 
one,  "  yek  ; "  two,  "  due  ; "  three,  "  trin  ; "  four,  "  star  ; "  five,  "  panj  ; " 
six,  "  shov  ; "  and  says,  "  Beyond  these  numbers  I  never  could  proceed 
with  any  success." 

Dr.  Bath  C.  Smart,  in  his  collection  of  gipsy  words  to  complete  his  gipsy 


LiyuUISTW  DIFFIVULTIES.  61 

It  is  curious  to  notice,  even  in  one  word,  the  different 
methods  of  spelling,  adopted  by  each  author.  The  Ro- 
manes, not  being  a  written  language,  and  the  oppor- 
tunities of  obtaining  it  from  these  wanderers  over  tlie 
world,  being  few,  each  author  has  struggled  into  print, 
with  a  vocabulary  formed  on  some  phonetic  system  of 
his  own.  Again,  what  a  different  sound,  may  be  given 
to  a  word,  by  some  slight  modification  of  accent,  depend- 
ing upon  the  education,  and  temperament,  of  the  indivi- 
dual speaking.  For  instance,  if  a  stranger,  unacquainted 
with  English,  but  taking  an  interest  in  the  language, 
came  to  England,  for  the  firat  time,  and  wrote  doAvn  in 
his  note-book,  English  words  spoken  by  the  less  educated 
natives,  of  Hampshire,  Staffordshire,  Lancashire,  York- 
shire, Gloucestershire,  Derbyshire,  or  Dorsetshire,  what 
a  variation  he  would  find,  in  the  spelling,  and  pro- 
nunciation, of  many  words,  so  collected.  It  is  not, 
therefore,  singular  that  gipsy  philologists,  should  differ 
in  their  spelling.'  It  is  only  extraordinary,  that  the 
accuracy  of  sound,  distinguishing  each  word,  has  been  so 
well  conveyed.  For  example,  take  the  word  "  much." 
Baudrimont  gives  bSter  (bouter) ;  Bryant's  collection, 
published  1785,  gives  "bootsee  ;"  Borrow  gives  Spanish 
gipsy  "  buter  "  and  **  butre,''  signifying  "  more."  Most 
of  the   other  philologists   give   "but."     Presten  Eilert 

nameralB  to  ten,  takes  seven,  "afta;"  eight,  "oitoo;"  and  nine,  "enneah," 
fxom  BTjant's  coUection,  saying  he  never  met  with  any  English  gipsy 
acquainted  with  them. 

Hoyland  obtained  from  the  English  gipsies  one,  "  yake  ; "  two,  "  duee  ; " 
three,^  "  trin  ; "  four,  "  stor  ; "  five,  "  pan  ; "  ten,  «  dyche  ; "  but  the  re- 
mainder of  his  numbers  he  appears  to  have  taken  from  Qrellman.  Hoyland 
says  it  is  not  a  little  singular  that  the  gipsy  terms  for  the  numerals  seven, 
eight,  and  nine  are  purely  Greek. 


62  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

Sundt  gives  **but"  in  his  extensive  vocabulary  of  tlie 
Norwegian  Romany.  One  author  (Dr.  Bath  C.  Snaart) 
gives  "  booty ''  and  "  boot/'  and  also  "  kissy."  Our 
own  gipsies  give  "koosee"  as  the  Romany  for  "much.'' 

At  page  25  of  his  work,*  M.  Baudrimont  says  :  "  The 
gipsies  have  without  doubt  forgotten  the  numerals,  for 
the  women  I  questioned,  only  knew  two."  Mr.  F.  Michel 
gives  five;f  Mr.  Balby  gives  ten.  Baudrimont  has 
collected  245  Romany  words,  which,  with  those  taken 
from  the  vocabulary  of  Mr.  F.  Michel,  increase  the 
number  to  352.  We  notice  some  repetition  of  words 
in  his  vocabulary,  which  reduces  the  actual  number;  J 

Our  gipsies  seemed  to  interest  Presten  Sundt.  Noah 
and  Zacharia  were  not  so  dark,  as  he  expected  to  see 
them ;  Esmeralda  seemed  quite  equal  to  the  standard 
of  gipsy  type.  Their  ages,  and  a  variety  of  questions, 
were  asked  iii  a  very  short  time.  Presten  Sundt  is  a 
man  of  much  energy,  and  rapidity  of  manner,  and  he 
was  conversant  with  the  English  language. 

We  were  sorry  Presten  Sundt  had  not  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  our  tents ;  they  were  the  same  kind  as  those 
used  by  the  gipsies  who  travel  England.  Esmeralda 
and  Zacharia  took  their  places  in  the  second-class  com- 
partment, of  the  same  carriage  in  which  we  travelled. 
Noah  went  in  the  same  van  with  the  donkeys. 

Presten  Sundt  and  his  son,  Mr.  Bennett,  Mr.  T.,  the 

*  YocabulAire  de  la  Langue  des  Bohdmiens  habitant  les  Pays  Basques 
Fran^ais. 

t  Author  of  '*  Le  Pays  Basque,  sa  Population,  sa  Langue,  ses  Moeurs,  sa 
Litt^rature,  et  sa  Musique." 

X  Presten  Sundt  ^ves  the  following  numerals  in  Norwegian  gipsy  : — 
"  Jikt,"  one  ;  "  dy,"  two  :  "  trin,"  three  ;  "  schtar/'  four ;  "  pansch/'  five  ; 
"sink,"  six;  "schuh,"  oftener  "sytt,"  seven;  "okto,'*  eight;  **engja," 
oftener  "  nin,*'  nine ;  "  tin,"  ten. 


DEPARTVllE  FROM  CHRISTIANIA.  63 

invalid  barrister,  and  our  active  cicerone  sent  by  the 
Chevalier,  were  assembled  on  tLe  platfoim,  and  wished 
us  ban  voyage^  as  the  train  moved  out  of  tlie  station. 
Was  not  one  wanting?  He  may  have  missed  his  road. 
Ke  was  not  there — tlie  Birmingham  bagman  had  been 
left  behind. 


CHAPTER  Vm. 

'*  The  moss  yonr  couch,  the  oak  your  canopy  ; 
The  sun  awakes  you  as  with  trumpet  call ; 
Lightly  ye  spring  from  slumber's  gentle  thrall ; 
Eve  draws  her  curtain  o'er  the  burning  west, 
Like  forest  birds  ye  sink  at  once  to  rest." 

Thk  Gipsies  : — Dean  Stanley's  Prize  Poem, 

A     NORWEGIAN      OFFICER  —  NORWEGIAN      EMIGRATION  —  EIDSVOLD  —  THE 

.    SKYD5KIFTET— QUIET    RETREAT  —  HAPPY    HOURS — BAIERSK    OL ESMK- 

RALDA'S  TOILETTE — ^THB  TRANSFORMATION — CURIOUS  ADDRESS— NEW 
ACQUAINTANCE — NOAH's  ENGAGEMENT — NOAH's  CONQUEST — ^AN  UN- 
GRATEFUL VISITOR — A  RELUCTANT  PARTING. 

Two  or  three  other  passengers  were  seated  in  our  first- 
class  compartment.  The  accommodation  was  very  com- 
fortable. In  the  carriage,  above  our  seat,  there  was  a 
small  tap,  and  drinking-glass,  for  the  supply  of  deliciously 
clear,  pure  iced  water,  for  the  convenience  of  the  thirsty 
passenger. 

It  was  after  five  o'clock  when  we  left  Christiania.  We 
had  about  fifty-two  miles  to  travel  that  evening.  Our 
attention  was  divided,  between  conversation,  with  one  of 
our  fellow-passengers — a  military  Norwegian  officer — tlie 
contemplation  of  the  country  through  which  we  passed, 
and  the  thoughts  of  what  sort  of  place,  we  should  have 
to  camp  in  that  niglit.  The  Norwegian  officer  was  an 
interesting  companion,  the  pay  sage  ^  we  passed  through, 
was  picturesque,  but  the  idea  of  our  future  camp,  occu- 


NORWEGIAN  SMIGRATJON.  65 

pied  most  of  otir  thoughts.  We  must  say,  they  were  very 
misty  and  uncertain.  Our  fellow-traveller  continued  with 
us  longer  than  any  of  the  other  passengers.  He  had  been 
in  England  some  time,  and  was,  we  believe,  an  inspector 
of  the  Artillery,  possessing  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the 
English  language.  He  told  us  that  the  trees  in  the 
forests  were  often  cut  down  to  such  an  extent,  as  to  be 
Tcry  detrimental  to  the  climate  and  shelter  required  in  a 
cold  country. 

Great  numbers  of  the  inhabitants  were  now  emigrating 
to  America.  Many  sold  their  farms  very  cheap,  in  order 
to  leave  the  country.  The  train  stopped  once  for  re- 
freshment, at  a  large  wooden  station,  and  we  had  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  our  gipsies.  We  passed  through 
the  largest  plain  in  Norway.  When  we  had  nearly 
arrived  at  Eidsvold,  our  fellow-traveller  left  to  visit  the 
artillery  practice-ground.  We  were  then  left  to  muse 
over  our  coining  adventures. '  The  train  stopped  at  last 
on  the  side  of  a  large  platform. 

We  were  now  close  to  the  Mjosen  Lake,  and  had 
reached  the  terminus  of  the  Christiania  and  Eidsvold 
railway.  Descending  to  the  platform,  we  found  that 
not  a  person  spoke  a  word  of  English.  With  some  little 
difficulty  we  got  our  luggage  out,  and  the  donkeys  also, 
to  the  astonishment  of  a  small  group  of  people,  including 
an  old  man  in  a  white  hat.  Showers  of  rain  had  pre- 
Tailed  during  the  route,  and  we  could  not  see  any  conve- 
nient camping-ground  near  the  station. 

We  walked  up  the  platform,  and  down  the  platform, 
followed  by  our  retinue  of  three  gipsies.  The  old  man 
in  the  white  hat  continued  to  watch  over  us :  he  followed 
us,  hovered  round  us.     We  tried  to  converse,  but  made 


66  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

nothing  of  it ;  we  were  unable  to  understand  what  he 
wanted.  At  length,  seeing  a  telegraph-oflfice,  we  sent  a 
telegram  to  Mr.  Bennett,  relative  to  a  coat,  and  books, 
we  had  left  on  board  the  Albion.  Most  of  the  small 
group  of  people  departed  after  they  had  gazed  a  short 
time  at  the  gipsies  and  donkeys.  We  could  not  see  any 
outlet  to  our  diflSculty,  or  where  we  were  to  go  for  the 
night ;  our  provisions  were  left  behind,  even  if  we  could 
find  a  convenient  camping-ground.  At  last  the  old  man 
took  a  decided  course,  and,  summoning  courage,  led  off 
one  of  the  donkeys,  and  the  other  two  followed.  With 
our  usual  reliance  upon  results,  we  let  him  have  his  own 
way,  determined  to  follow  whither  he  would.  Some  men, 
when  they  saw  us  moving  ofi*,  fastened  our  baggage  on  a 
small  rough  hand-cart.  In  a  few.  minutes,  we  were 
toiling  up  a  steep,  wmding  road,  and  lost  sight  of  the 
railway-station.  Then  we  shortly  after  arrived  at  a 
large,  sloping,  open  space,  shut  in  by  trees  and  comfort- 
able wooden  buildings,  which  gave  it  an  air  of  charming 
seclusion.  The  place  was  apparently  a  ''  skydskift,"  and 
here  seemed  to  be  our  destination.  The  old  man  went 
direct  across  the  open  space,  in  front  of  the  wooden 
house,  to  what  appeared  a  stable,  and  then  halted.  The 
donkeys  were  minutely  inspected  by  the  people.  They 
brought  some  hay  and  water  for  our  animals,  who, 
placed  in  the  stable,  must  have  been  astonished  at  their 
sudden  transition,  through  such  various  scenes.  We 
were  then  conducted  through  what  appeared  to  be  the 
doorway  of  the  "  Guest  Huus,"  into  a  passage,  up  some 
stairs,  into  another  passage,  and  through  an  open  door- 
way into  a  very  comfortable  room.  This  was  a  sitting- 
room,  and  also  a  bed-room,  on  the  first  floor.     There 


QXnST  RETREAT.  67 

were  two  windows  in  it,  which  we  put  open ;  a  mirror 
between  them,  which  our  gipsies  looked  into,  as  the 
shades  of  night  were  &8t  coming  upon  us.  The  furni- 
ture consisted  of  a  sofa,  and  table,  some  chairs,  a  bed, 
and  washing-stand.  Up  some  more  stairs,  we  had 
another  narrow,  but  comfortable  inner  room,  with  two 
more  beds. 

Saying  something  about  '*  speise,'*  coffee  and  eggs  and 

most  excellent  bread  and  butter  were  set  before  us.     Our 

^S^S^  ^^s  deposited  in  the  passage.     The  gipsies, 

Noah  and  Zacharia,  at  our  request,  commenced  playing 

the  violin  and  tambourine,  whilst  the  evening  meal  was 

being  placed  on  the  table.    The  old  man,  who  came  up 

with  the  luggage,  still  lingered  to  hear  the  music.     We 

seated  him  on  a  chair  near  the  door,  for  we  began  to  look 

upon  him  as  our  guardian  angel.     The  comely-looking 

"  pige,"'  or  girl-in-waiting,  at  length  seated  us  at  table,  as 

we  set  our  musical-box  to  play.     They  had  probably 

never  heard  one.     There  was  a  charming  stillness  about 

the  place,  broken  by  those  liquid  modulations  of  harmony, 

which  seemed   to  create  a  thousand  impressions,  and 

agreeable  sensations.     Then  we  found  ourselves  taking 

our  quiet   evening   meal  with  our  three   gipsies,  who, 

to  do  them  justice,   passed  muster  wonderfully  well. 

Esmeralda  had  the  small  sofa.     After  all  the  hurry, 

worry,  and  bustle  of  the  day,  as  we  sipped  our  coffee,  we 

could  not  help  feeling  thankfiilness  to  the  Giver  of  all 

things,  peace  with  all  men,  and  content  with  the  world. 

Our  repast  ended,  the  musical  box  ceased  to  play,  the 

old  man,   bowing,   retired.     The   kind-hearted  looking 

girls  prepared  the  beds.     Esmeralda  had  the  best  bed,  in 

the  sitting-room ;  Zacharia,  one  made  up  for  the  night 

F  2 


68  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

on  the  sofa ;  Noali  and  myself,  the  two  beds  in  the 
narrow  inner  room.  The  beds  were  a  serious  business 
to  Noah  and  Zacharia.-  Noah  could  not  find  his  road 
into  bed.  At  length,  with  our  guidance,  he  waa 
initiated  into  the  mysteries ;  the  result  was  almost 
immediate  sleep.  With  the  windows  all  open,  and  not 
a  sound  to  disturb  the  stillness  of  night,  we  were  not 
long,  before  we  became  unconscious  of  all  toil  and 
trouble. 

Never  shall  we  forget  Zacharia  in  his  bed,  as  we 
looked  into  the  sitting-room  the  next  morning.  High 
above  the  sofa,  one  naked  foot  protruded,  somewhere 
trailing  near  the  floor  we  noticed  some  straggling  locks 
of  black  hair,  belonging  to  a  head,  whilst  all  the  bed- 
clothes were  tied,  twisted,  tumbled,  and  rolled  into  every 
conceivable  shape. 

We  had  an  early  "frokost"  (breakfast) — excellent 
coffee,  eggs,  bread,  and  butter.  People  are  moving  early 
in  Norway.  It  was  a  fine,  beautiful  morning:  gipsies 
must  be  employed,  and  the  violin  and  tambourine  were 
again  in  requisition,  whilst  we  sat  on  the  sofa,  at  our 
small  table,  writing  up  our  diary.  The  servants  came 
up  occasionally,  and  listened  to  the  music,  as  they  stood 
at  the  open  doorway  of  our  room.  So  the  morning 
passed  in  delightful  rest  and  tranquillity.  Who  could  be 
otherwise  than  happy,  with  such  honnStes  gens?  Every- 
thing  was  so  clean  and  tidy.  Our  "middags  mad" 
(dinner,  or  midday  meal)  was  served,  at  our  request,  at 
one  o'clock.  It  is  astonishing  how  a  small  stock  of  words, 
will  enable  you  to  supply  your  wants,  in  a  foreign  land. 
Yet  we  did  not  look  upon  Norway  as  foreign  to  us ;  all 
vas  so  homely,  that  we  felt  at  home  with  everything,  and 


ESMERALDA'S  TOILETTE.  €0 

everybody.  Possibly  some  of  our  very  remote  ancestors 
may  have  been  Norwegians.  AVe  were  soon  quietly 
seated  at  our  "  middags  mad  "  with  our  gipsies.  A  disli 
of  mutton  cotelettes,  with  bacon,  very  good  potatoes,  anil 
two  small  glasses  of  "  baiersk  6l  "*  (bottled  ale),  completed 
our  fare.  The  ale  is  peculiar  in  taste,  but  sparkling  and 
<?lear ;  like  some  of  the  Austrahan  colonial  ale,  it  is  not 
to  he  taken  in  any  quantity  with  impunity. 

After  our  dinner,  Esmeralda  decided  to  put  on  her  new 
dress.  She  had  one  faded,  worn  frock,  which  she  wore 
under  her  Alpine  cloak.  Her  wardrobe  being  so  limited, 
we  had  bought  her  a  blue  dress,  at  no  great  cost,  before 
leaving  England,  and  her  mother  made  it  up.  In  order 
that  she  should  not  be  different  from  the  Norwegian 
style  of  ornamentation,  we  purchased  some  plain  silver 
buttons.  They  were  stitched  on  in  front,  and  at  the  * 
cuffs,  on  a  Scotch  plaid  braid,  which  trimmed  the  dress, 
and  was  the  selection  of  her  mother.  We  were  rather 
amused,  as  we  looked  up  from  our  writing,  to  see  her 
descend  from  the  inner  room,  where  she  had  completed 
her  toilette.  The  silver  buttons  were  resplendent  on  the 
dark  plaid  braid.  The  dress  was  made  according  to 
the  gipsy  fashion.  We  thought  her  mother  might  have 
allowed  her  a  little  more  skirt,  and  the  bodice  was  rather 
close-fitting — scarcely  room  enough  for  development. 
Esmeralda  had  naturally  a  wonderfully  small  waist,  and 
the  dress  was  so  made  that  it  seemed  quite  tight  all  the 
way  down  before,  being  more  ample  behind.  There  was 
DO  concealment  of  legs ;  she  had  put  on  some  coloured 
stockings,  and  her  Alpine  slippers,  which  we  had  given 
her  to  rest  her  feet  occasionally  when  she  took  off"  the 

*  Sometimea  spelt  Bainsk  ol,  the  meaning  being  Bavarian  beer. 


70  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOB  WAY. 

heavy  boots  so  much  admired  by  Mr.  T.  She  had  no 
reason  to  be  ashamed  of  her  foot  and  ankle.  Her  dark, 
raven  hair  was  natural ;  no  wretched  chignon,  and  masses 
of  false  hair,  distorted  nature— there  was  no  deception, 
truth  was  represented,  reality  was  without  a  rival. 
Esmeralda  we  shall  always  remember  as  she  then  ap- 
peared in  the  guest  chamber  of  beautifiil  Eidsvold.  One 
of  our  attentive  servants  came  up  soon  afterwards,  and 
was  apparently  astonished  at  the  sudden  change  to  the 
gorgeous  apparel  she  beheld.  The  transformation  was 
as  complete  as  one  of  those  changes  we  read  of  in  the 
old  tales  of  enchantment.  The  "  pige  "  did  not  stay  long, 
but  silently  departed,  and  soon  after  returned,  with 
another  of  our  attendants,  who  gazed  with  a  curious  air 
of  interest  at  what  she  saw.  The  old  man  soon  came 
up,  and  occasionally  stood  in  the  passage.  Sometimes  he 
spoke — we  did  not  understand  him ;  then  he  would  take 
off  his  hat,  bow,  and  retire,  whilst  we  continued  our 
writing.  We  now  discovered,  to  our  annoyance,  that  the 
guitar  had  been  left  behind,  Zacharia  was  certain  he 
had  seen  it  on  board  the  Albion.  We  began  to  think  we 
should  never  be  able  to  get  our  things  together,  and  sent 
a  telegram  to  Mr.  Bennett,  from  the  station,  saying  that 
our  things  had  been  put  on  board  the  steamer,  and  to  ask 
him  to  kindly  send  us  a  copy  of  Murray's  Guide  Book. 
We  were  anxious  to  be  well  prepared  with  all  informa- 
tion. Then  we  received  a  note  addressed  to  us  by  name, 
but  Mr.  Bennett,  not  knowing  where  we  were,  and  pos- 
sibly supposing  us  camped  on  the  shore  of  the  Mjosen 
Lake,  had,  to  insure  its  delivery,  added,  "  Den  Herre  som 
reiste  igaaraftes  med  3  oesler,"  meaning  the  gentleman 
travelling  last  night  with  three  donkeys. 


NEW  ACQUAINTANCE.  71 

It  appeared  that  two  packages  had  been  found.  Three 
others,  Mr.  Bennett  said,  were  probably  in  the  hold  of  the 
TesBel;  and  Captain  Soulsby  had  reported  several  odds 
and  ends,  left  in  our  cabin  to  be  forwarded.  We  were 
almost  au  disespoir. 

My  gipsies  must  do  something;  so  the  violin,  tam- 
bourine, and  castanettes,  again  sounded  in  a  maze  of 
polkas  and  waltzes.  At  times  a  succession  of  visitors 
came  up,  and  stood  in  the  passage  to  hear  the  music,  but 
we  could  hold  no  converse  with  them.  At  last  we  had 
coffee,  eggs,  and  bread  and  butter.  What  coffee  !  We 
often  wonder  how  it  is  we  so  seldom  have  in  England 
anything  which  represents  the  name.  In  France,  Ger- 
many, Norway,  and  Denmark  you  have  excellent  coffee 
almost  everywhere.  Our  gipsies  had  managed  wonder- 
ftilly  well.  Zacharia  did  once  upset  the  contents  of  his 
cup  of  coffee  over  the  white  cloth.  We  made  them  use 
their  napkins,  and  restrained  as  much  as  possible  the  use 
of  the  knives,  at  times,  when  the  fork  was  the  proper 
vehicle  to  the  mouth.  Much  nervousness  was  in  conse- 
quence avoided.  As  we  were  lounging  over  our  coffee, 
our  guardian  angel,  the  old  man,  came  up,  and  bowing, 
murmured  something  about  Herre  wanted  to  see  us. 
Who  could  want  to  see  us?  Probably  some  matter 
connected  with  our  baggage,  which  was  strongly  asso- 
ciated at  that  time  with  every  idea.  We  went  down 
soon  afterwards,  and  entered  the  next  house  under  the 
same  roof.  A  stout,  portly,  nice-lookmg  man  in  uniform 
took  off  his  hat,  and  said  a  very  good  English  "  Good 
evening,  sir."  He  was  captain  of  the  lake  steamer, 
leaving  the  next  morning  for  Lillehammer.  The  captain 
wished  to  know  whether  we  were  going  next  morning. 


72  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

He  was  also  anxious  to  see  the  donkeys.  Taking  him 
with  us  to  the  stable,  he  said  he  would  have  a  box  ready 
to  sling  them  on  board,  and  they  must  be  down  at  the 
place  of  embarkation,  near  the  station  at  nine  o'clock. 
We  said  they  should  be  there,  and  that  we  should  have 
much  pleasure  in  going  by  his  steamer,  and  avail  our- 
selves of  his  knowledge  of  English.  Wishing  good  even- 
ing, he  strolled  off  to  take  a  bath,  in  the  large  wooden 
bath-house,  on  the  side  of  the  lake  below. 

Returning  to  our  room,  we  continued  our  diary.  Noah 
informed  us  at  dinner,  that  he  had  put  by  an  engagement 
of  £1  a  week,  offered  by  some  farmer,  in  order  that  he 
might  accompany  us.  Much  thankfulness  was  expressed 
at  so  much  self-sacrifice,  and  it  was  the  subject  of  many 
a  quiet  joke  during  our  journey.  How  pleasantly  the 
time  passed.  How  smiling  life  seemed  in  the  retu'c- 
ment  of  Eidsvold.  Again  Zacharia  struck  up  his  violin ; 
again  Noah  executed  a  clever  roulade  on  his  tambourine. 
More  visitors  occasionally  appeared,  and  disappeared. 
Then  we  sent  Noah  and  Zacharia  down  to  the  station,  to 
see  if  any  of  our  baggage  had  come  by  the  last  train,  and 
we  were  fortunate  enough  to  receive  four  packages, 
including  our  guitar,  and  one  package  by  Captain 
Soulsby.  Tlie  case  of  provisions  could  not  be  found. 
Our  telegrams  increased.  We  hoped  to  get  the  case 
next  morning  before  the  steamer  left  Eidsvold.  In  the 
stillness  of  the  closing  evening,  we  sang  with  the  guitar, 
our  gipsy  song.  One  of  our  attendants  was  most 
certainly  in  love  with  Noah.  We  had  generally  sent  him 
to  the  other  house,  to  ask  for  whatever  we  wanted.  It 
was  practice  for  him,  and  no  doubt  he  had  made  a 
conquest.     About  ten  o'clock  the  attendants  made  up 


AX  UNGRATEFUL   VISITOR.  73 

the  bed  oq  the  sofa,  and  we  gave  them  another  last  air 
liefore  we  retired  Well  we  remember  tlie  look  our 
clean,  tidy,  and  comely  "  pige  "  gave  Noah,  as  he  played 
his  tambourine  with  an  energy  of  feeling  peculiar  to  the 
gipsy  race.  "  Cushty  ratty  ^  (gip.,  good-night)  to  all,  and 
we  were  soon  asleep. 

It  is  light  at  an  early  hour  in  Norway.  We  were  up 
at  four  o'clock,  a  number  of  letters  were  written.  At  si^ 
o*cIock  it  was  found  that  Esmeralda  had  one  eye  nearly 
swollen  up.  A  musketo  had  lounged  in,  through  the 
open  window  in  the  night.  It  was  natural  that  ho 
should  be  attracted  by  her  dark  eyes,  but  he  should 
have  been  satisfied,  with  distant  contemplation.  I  was 
called  in  as  the  "  cushty  drabengro ''  (gip.,  good  doctor), 
and  by  the  aid  of  some  glycerine  rendered  the  bite  less 
painful 

The  rest  were  soon  up.  We  had  found  Zacharia  in 
some  extraordinary  complication  of  bed-clothes  on  the 
sofa.  I  think  he  was  glad  to  regain  tent  life,  for  this 
was  the  last  time  he  slept  off  the  ground  during  his  stay 
in  Norway. 

"  Frokost  "  was  served  at  seven  o'clock — coffee,  eggs, 
bread  and  butter.  As  usual,  all  excellent.  The  bread,  we 
understood,  was  sent  from  Christiania  to  Eidsvold.  The 
morning  was  lovely — our  spirits  almost  in-epressible. 
Esmeralda  poured  out  the  coffee — "  del  the  moro  "  (gip.) 
"  give  us  the  bread,"  Romany  and  English  sparkled  on 
the  board. 

After  "  frokost "  we  repacked  some  of  our  baggage, 
and  Esmeralda  brushed  our  coat.  The  bright  anticipa- 
tion of  a  delightful  trip  along  the  Mjosen  Lake,  and  the 
probability    of  our  case   of  provisions   coming   by  the 


74  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOBWAY. 

morning  train,  in  time  for  the  steamer,  had  quite  banished 
all  melancholy.  Noah  and  Zacharia  gave  one  or  two 
tunes  after  breakfast  as  a  farewell,  whilst  the  comely 
"pige"  gazed  at  Noah  in  speechless  wonder.  She 
stood  all  spell  bound.  We  fear  the  gipsy's  eyes,  for 
they  had  scarcely  any  other  medium  of  conversation,  had 
wrought  much  mischief  Some  man  appeared  at  the 
open  doorway,  with  his  knife  at  his  side,  and  seeming 
transfixed,  so  completed  the  tableau.  Time  flew  on  with 
rapid  wing.  Noah  and  Zacharia  departed  with  the 
donkeys.  We  had  more  time;  and  as  we  sat  on  the 
sofa,  waiting  for  our  account,  we  took  our  guitar,  and 
sang  our  last  song  at  Eidsvold,  "  Welcome,  you  dear  old 
land.'' 


CHAPTER  IX. 

**  Chori&ofte  luttolaa 
Tristerie  du  cantetoen, 
Doelaiican  cer  j«ii^ 
CSer  edAn, 

Gampoa  da  denntc«n ; 
Cereii)  ceren 
Libertfttia  hMin  eder  den." 

Le  Pajfi  Pcm^h^  par  F&ivasQVi  Miohil. 

"  The  little  bird  in  the  ctge 
BiBgeth  sadly, 
Withal  to  eat, 
Withal  to  drink. 
He  would  be  out ; 
BecauM,  becanae 
Nothing  is  sweet  but  libetij.** 

JfODERATE    BIIX — PB0TI8I0NS    LOST— WE    MEET    AGAIN— OIP8IE8    IN     AI>- 

TANC£ LEFT    ALONE — A    WELCOME    TELEGRAM — NOBWEGIAN    BATH 

BOOM SINGULAR  PAINTINGS— ONCE  MORE  FAREWELL — THE  TELE- 
GRAPH CLERK— THE  MJOSEN  LAKE — THE  DRONNINGEN— RUINED 
CATHBDRAL — UTILITARIANISM— LILLEHAMMER— ONCE  MORE  IN  CAMP. 

OuB  bill  was  moderate — four  dollars,  four  marks,  and 
eight  skillings;  twenty-four  skillings  for  attendance 
seemed  quite  sufficient.  Our  things  were  all  placed  on 
a  truck ;  Esmeralda  carried  Zacharia's  violin,  our  guitar, 
and  our  two  extra  caps,  whilst  we  took  our  courier-bags, 
and,  under  our  arm,  in  two  satchels  made  for  them, 
the  two  Regent-street  tambourines.  Our  appearance 
certainly  much  resembled  travelling  musicians. 

Bidding  adieu  to  the  kind  people  of  the  house,  we 


V6  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

were  soon  descending  the  winding  road  to  the  steamer. 
As  we  walked  along,  we  could  not  help  alluding  to  the 
astonishment  our  numerous  friends  would  express  if  they 
could  see  us.     Noah  and  Zacharia  soon  after  met  us; 
they  had  left  the  donkeys  at  the  railway-station,  and 
came  to  say  the  provisions  had  not  arrived.     When  we 
reached  the  station,  another  telegram  was  sent,  in.  which 
we  mentioned  Hudson  Brothers,  as  consignors  to  Messrs. 
AVilson.     The  clerk   of  the  telegraph  office  began    to 
regard  us  as  an  habitu6  of  the  bureau,  and  we  looked 
upon  him  as  a  pupil  in  the  English  language.     We  were 
astonished  at  his  progress,  and  he  was  apparently  equally 
so  at  our  large  expenditure   of  money  in  telegrams. 
Rather  in  mournful  mood,   we  went    to  the  wooden 
platform  to  which  the  steamer  was  moored.     There  was 
the  box;   there  stood  the  donkeys;  there  the  men  to 
put  them  into  the  box,  and  the  sling,  to  sling  them  on 
board.     How  are  the  donkeys  to  be  put  into  the  box? 
Vain  were  the  efforts  made — all  to  no  purpose;   the 
donkeys  had  made  up  their  minds.     At  last,  with  the 
united  efforts  of  four  men,  and  Noah,  one  by  one  they 
were  pulled,  dragged,  lifted,  carried,  forced,  in  wild  re- 
sistance, over  the  passenger's  bridge,  and  along  the  deck, 
in    sight  of   the  astonished    lookers-on.     The   "  Puru 
Rawnee"  and  his  companions  were  at  length   safely 
placed  before  the  windlass  on  the  fore-deck,  close  to 
four  brass  guns,  ready  loaded  for  a  salute.     We  decided 
to  go  to  Christiania,  in  search  of  the  provisions,  and 
sent  another  telegram  to  Mr.  Bennett.      The  passage- 
money  of  our  gipsies,  and  the  three  donkeys  to  Lille- 
hammer,  amounted  to  five  dollars,  seventeen  marks ;  we 
also  paid  six  marks  for  our  gipsies'  dinner,  includmg 


WE  MEET  AGAIN.  77 

one  bottle  of  "  Baiersk  01 "  between  tbem,  and  a  cup  of 
coffee  Bach.  The  captain  kindly  promised  to  look  after 
them,  and  arrange  for  them  to  camp,  when  they  got  to 
Lillelianimer.  Just  before  leaving,  we  gave  them  some 
Norsk  words  for  bread,  cheese,  coffee,  &c.  The  old  man 
in  the  whit^  hat,  our  guardian  angel,  was,  of  course,  at 
hand.  With  much  anxiety  he  wrote  down  the  words 
for  Noah.  Unfortunately,  Noah  could  not  read;  but 
as  the  old  man  pronounced  each  word  aloud,  Noah 
followed,  and  the  old  man  did  not  suspect,  apparently, 
the  neglected  education  of  his  pupil. 

There  was  the  sound  of  the  coming  train,  just  before 
eleven ;  down  came  the  passengers,  hurrying  with  their 
things  to  the  steamer.  There  was  the  officer,  and  his 
^fe,  with  the  Tyrolese  hat  and  feather — we  had  met 
again.  Their  two  carrioles*  are  put  on  board — hasty 
salutations — we  learn  that  the  invalid  barrister  has  left 
Christiania  for  Bergen — ^they  are  going  to  Gjovik.  We 
told  him  our  dilemma,  and  he  said  we  had  hurried  too 
quickly    through    Christiania.     They    had    been    busy 


*  The  Garriole,  called  in  Norwegian  ''  Kaijol/'  is  a  light  Norwegian 
cartiage,  with  long  springy  shafts,  admirably  adapted  for  travelling  in  a 
mountamoas  country.  A  carriole  will  only  accommodate  one  traveller,  whose 
legs  can  be  stretched  ont  at  frdl  length,  in  a  horizontal  position,  and  a  long 
leather  apron  protects  them  from  rain.  A  small  flat  board  leaves  just 
sufficient  space  for  a  portmanteau  or  trunk,  which  should  not  exceed 
tluity-f our  inches  in  length,  fifteen  inches  in  breadth,  and  eleven  inches  high, 
with  standing-room  for  the  "skydsluarl"  (boy),  who  accompanies  the  pony 
dmiiig  the  posting-stage.  Carrioles  may  be  hired  or  purchased  from  the 
Christiania  Carriole  Company,  17,  Store  Strandgade,  and,  being  very  jight, 
are  easily  taken  on  steamers,  across  lakes  and  fiords,  to  the  next  posting- 
station,  from  whence  the  traveller  continues  his  land  route  with  another 
pony.  Carrioles  are  now  often  used  by  ladies,  and  are  more  easy  and  con- 
Tenient  than  the  stolkjoerre,  a  light  cart,  which,  being  less  expensive  to  hire, 
is  occasionally  used  by  travellers  as  a  means  of  conveyance. 


78  TENX  LIFE  IN  NORWAT. 

making  purchases  at  ChriBtiania.  Our  conversation  now 
ceaees,  for  the  steamer  muet  depart.  The  stout  captain 
took  up  his  position  on  the  steamer's  pont,  and,  taking 
out  his  watch,  he  gave  the  signal  for  stEurting.  As  the 
Dronmngen  glided  along  the  still  waters  of  the  Mjosen, 
our  "  cushty  chavos  "  (gip.,  good  children)  made  farewell 
signals  to  their  Romany  Rye. 

Another  telegram  to  Mr.  Bennett,  to  say  we  should  be 
in  Christiania  at  seven 'o'clock  in  the  evenmg,  no  train 


leaving  Eidsvold  before  the  afternoon.  The  telegraph 
clerk  expressed  his  astonishment  at  the  number  of  our 
telegrams,  and  increased  his  stock  of  English.  We  felt 
lonely  away  from  our  people.  It  was  a  very  warm  day, 
and  we  had  some  hours  on  hand.  Crossing  the  bridge  at 
the  head  of  the  lake,  near  the  railway  station,  we  passed 
the  houses  on  the  opposite  side,  and  walked  along  tbe 
dusty  narrow  road  beyond.  We  could  see  nothing  but 
incIoBures  on  either  side  the  road.     The  common  style 


WELCOME  TELEGRAM.  79 

of  Norwegian  road  fence  consists  of  posts,  with  two  long 
parallel  raOs,  supporting  a  number  of  slanting  rails,  of 
shorter  length,  loosely  placed  between  them. 

There  was  no  shade.  The  wooden  log  houses,  here 
and  there,  had  generally  tiled  roofs.  No  attempt  was 
made  at  ornament  or  picturesque  effect.  Everything  in 
the  rough.  We  sat  on  the  narrow  road  side,  and  noted 
up  our  diary ;  then  we  returned  to  the  houses  again  near 
the  bridge,  and  being  hungry,  boldly  walked  into  one 
which  bore  some  resemblance  to  a  place  of  refreshment. 
They  civilly  said  they  had  nothing,  and  that  there  was  a 
house  on  the  hill,  beyond  the  station,  where  refreshment 
might  be  had.  They  meant  the  house  at  which  we  had 
lately  stayed.*  It  was  about  half-past  two  o'clock  when 
we  again  crossed  the  bridge,  and  called  at  the  telegraph 
office.  The  polite  clerk  seemed  rather  pleased  to  see 
us,  at  the  same  time  handing  a  telegram  with  much 
alacritv. 

A  life-boat  on  the  ocean  to  the  shipwrecked  mariner, 
could  not  have  given  much  greater  pleasure.  The  pro- 
visions had  been  found.  Our  name  was  not  on  the  case, 
hut  our  mention  of  Messrs.  Hudson  Brothers,  as  con- 
signors, had  fortunately  famished  the  clue.  They  would 
reach  Eidsvold  that  night.  With  some  degree  of  satisfac- 
tion we  soon  ascended  the  hill,  and  came  to  our  quiet 
retreat.  The  comely  "  pige ''  welcomed  us — she  seemed 
much  pleased — and  we  were  shown  into  a  finer,  and  more 
stately  chamber,  than  the  one  we  had  before  occupied. 
We  were  hungry,  and  our  dinner  was  quickly  served. 
Cotelettes,  potatoes,  and  some  kind  of  sweet  dish,  with 
some  "  Baiersk  01."    Then  we  wrote  letters  at  a  table 

•  A  laige  hotel  has  since  been  built  at  Eidsvold  railway  station. 


80  TENT  UFE  JN  NORWAY. 

near  the  window,  in  view  of  the  Mjosen  Lake.  AU 
was  quietude;  we  felt  as  if  we  were  lost.  At  six 
o'clock  our  thermometer  was  82°  Fahrenheit.  We 
determmed  to  take  a  Badekar  (bath).  The  large  wooden 
bath-house  was  at  a  short  distance  below  the 
"  gjoestgiver-gaard." 

Crossing  over  a  light  wooden  bridge  from  the  lake 
shore,  we  were  immediately  on  a  balcony  extending  round 


the  building,  above  the  waters  of  the  lake.  Doors  opened 
from  the  balcony  into  the  bath-rooms.  Each  visitor  has 
a  small  dressing-room  adjoining  another  small  room,  in 
which  stands  a  zinc  bath.  As  we  looked  in,  a  cm-ious 
leather  spout  pendant  from  the  ceiling  supplied  the  water 
to  the  bath.  It  was  a  clumsy  contrivance,  and  out  of 
repMr ;  part  of  the  water  poured  in  streams  on  the  floor, 
whilst  the  other  portion  found  its  way  into  the  bath. 

The  man  in  attendance,  who  came  to  prepare  the  bath, 
could  not  understand  what  heat  we  required,  especially 


SINGULAR  PAINTINGS.  61 

as  thej  use  Reaomur,  anct  we  ase  the  Fahrenheit  thenao- 
meter.  A  Norwegian  gentleman,  just  taking  his  bath, 
and  very  scantily  clothed,  at  the  request  of  the  man, 
poKtely  came  to  the  bath-room  door  to  act  as  interpreter. 
He  spoke  Bome  Englisb,  and  kindly  relieved  us  firom  our 
difficulty.  Thanking  him  for  bis  aid,  he  bowed  and 
retired.  The  price  of  our  bath  was  fivepence.  Giying 
tbe  attendant  a  few  skiltmgs,  we  returned  to  our  pleasant 
room  at  the  quiet  "  goestgiver-gaard."     How  dreamy  we 


felt  at  eve,  as  we  watched  from  our  window  the  lights 
and  shadows  on  the  Lake  Hjosen.  A  gilded  surface  in 
the  evening  sun — how  fiiU  of  beauty — one  seemed  to 
view  the  imagery  of  other  worlds.  There  is  in  nature 
more  than  art  can  tell,  or  language  render.  Not  a  leaf 
but  has  its  history,  a  flower  its  tale,  nor  a  sound  without 
its  music  to  the  mind.  There  were  some  quaint  old 
paintings  on  the  panels  of  the  chamber,  which  caught 
our  attention  as  we  sat  musing  there,  and  we  hastily 
Bketched  them.   One  represented  a  priest  in  old-fashioned 


82  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

clerical  costume  wallciag  unconsciously  as  he  reads,  into 
a  river,  or  out  to  sea.  The  priest  is  saying,  as  he  reads : 
"  Jeg  maa  gaae  til  Bunden  i  dette  Problem  for  jeg  gaae 
vidre."  (I  must  go  to  the  bottom  of  this  problem  be- 
fore I  go  farther.) 

The   other  painting  represented   a  stout  clergyman 
who  is  being  rowed  along  a  lake  or  river.     He  is  so  stout 


that  the  end  of  the  boat  in  which  he  sits  is  nearly  under 
water,     He  is  supposed  to  be  shouting  to  the  boatman : 

"  Hal'ud  manne.  Der  gaa  er  Dampen."  (Pull  away, 
lad !    There  goes  the  steamer.) 

With  our  mind  much  at  ease  we  retired  early  to  rest 
By  some  chance  they  put  us  to  sleep  in  Esmeralda's  bed. 
We  rose  at  four  o'clock  the  next  morning,  and  wrote 
letters.  Our  "  frokost "  was  served  at  seven  o'clock.  It 
was  a  beautiful  morning  :  our  comely  "pige"  was  there, 
but  she  had  no  gipsy  Noah  to  admire.  We  paid  onr 
account — three  marks   sixteen   skillings.     Slinging  our 


ONCE  MORE  FAREWELL.  83 

courier-b^  over  our  shoulder,  as  we  gave  the  comely 
*'pige^'  a  douceur,  we  again  wished  these  kind  and 
attentive  people  farewell.  It  must  be  owned  that  we 
lingered  for  a  moment  near  this  quiet  retreat,  so  full 
of  pleasant  moments  and  long-to-be-remembered  remi- 
niscences. 

At  the  railway-station  the  case  of  provisions,  which 
had  arrived,  cost  us  one  dollar.  Sealing  our  letters  in 
the  telegraph  oflSce,  w^e  posted  them.  '  The  case  of  pro- 
visions, which  was  veiy  heavy,  was  brought  down  to  the 
steamer,  and  placed  on  the  jetty  to  be  taken  on  board. 
We  then  noticed,  fastened  to  it,  a  letter  from  Mr.  Ben- 
nett, and  Hudson  Brothers'  receipted  bill,  attached  out- 
side the  case.  It  appeared  that  some  of  the  packages  in 
the  case  had  burst  open.  Pea-flour,  wheat-flour,  salt,  and 
other  contents  had  got  mixed  and  spread  about  in  wild 
confusion.  Mr.  Bennett  had  kindly  had  the  pea-flour 
and  salt  put  into  a  bag.  Great  care  is  requisite  in  packing 
for  long  journeys.  The  provisions  were  all  right  at  last. 
Paying  another  visit  to  the  telegraph  office,  we  remitted 
to  Mr.  Bennett  a  sum  sufficient  to  cover  all  costs  inci- 
dental to  the  baggage  and  expenses,  and  also  wrote 
a  letter  to  him.  We  must  ever  acknowledge  his  kind 
attention.  Mr.  Bennett's  services  are  invaluable  to  new 
arrivals ;  ten  minutes'  conversation  with  him  will  often 
save  the  tourist  days  of  trouble,  vexation,  and  delay. 
Ton  have,  also,  the  feeUng  that  he  is  a  gentleman,  and 
jou  can  trust  his  advice.  Our  telegraph  clerk  was 
wonderfully  polite,  and  we  felt  a  certain  amount  of  regi-et 
when  for  the  last  tune  we  wished  him  good  morning. 
As  we  left  the  office,  he  said,  in  very  good  English, 
*'  I  think,  sir,  you  are  now  all  right." 

o  2 


84  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

We  returned  to  the  steamer,  which  left  Eidsvold  at 
half-past  eleven  in  the  forenoon.*  The  passengers  were 
for  the  most  part  plainly  dressed,  and  of  the  class  of  small 
farmers.  The  men  wore  large,  ample  trousers,  and  thick, 
heavy  Wellington  boots.  The  excursion  along  the  lake 
was  delightful.  The  Mjosen  is  sixty-three  English  miles 
in  length.  On  the  shores  of  the  lake,  the  steamer  passed 
numerous  farms  and  pleasant  homesteads,  with  pine  and 
fir  forests  forming  a  distant  background.  Towards  Lille- 
hammer  the  scenery  becomes  more  picturesque ;  the  land- 
ing stations  often  reminded  us  of  colonial  settlements. 
Then  we  became  acquainted  with  a  young  passenger  and 
his  friend  who  were  going  to  Lillehammer.  The  friend 
spoke  a  few  words  of  English.  A  tall,  smart-looking- 
young  Norwegian  officer,  neatly  dressed  in  plain  clothes, 
who  had  travelled  in  England,  France,  and  Prussia,  spoke 
English  fluently.  Whilst  we  were  conversing,  an  old 
man  came  up  with  a  number  of  knives  to  sell ;  they  were 
suspended  to  a  wire.  After  some  inspection,  we  selected 
two  knives  at  six  marks  each,  and  one  at  one  dollar. 
Then  came  the  money  payment ;  it  was  a  serious  busi- 
ness. We  produced  a  handful  of  those  varied  coins, 
many  not  counting  for  the  value  they  are  marked.  A 
young  man  who  spoke  a  few  words  of  English  volun- 
teered to  count  out  the  sum.  The  countenance  of  the 
old  man  gazing  on  my  money,  and  the  young  man,  who 
was  anxious  to  be  exact  to  a  skilling,  would  have  made 
a  good  subject  for  Frith,  or  some  artist  skilful  in  making^ 
a  group  on  canvas  convey  its  own  wordless  history.    The 

*  In  a  mansion  at  Eidsvold,  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Anker  family, 
the  Constitution  of  Norway  was  drawn  up  and  signed,  and  the  independence 
and  free  institntions  of  the  Norwegian  people  guaranteed  upon  the  unity  of 
their  country  with  Sweden,  in  1814. 


THE  MJOSEN  LAKE.  65 

hunting-knives  were  intended  as  presents  to  our  gipsies. 
Mthongh   the    only  Englishmen  on  board,  with   such 
homely,  kind  people,  we  felt  as  with  friends,  and  they 
seemed  to  give  us  welcome  to  their  beautiful  land.    As 
ve  surveyed  the  Lake  scene,  the  Dronningen  steamed  in 
sight  Our  firiend  the  captain  took  off  his  hat  in  salutation 
to  our  captain  and  passengers.    When  we  were  returning 
his  greeting  he  seemed  to  recognise  us,  and  again  waved 
his  hat  in  final  adieu.    The  Dronningen  is  said  to  be  the 
best  steamer  on  the  lake.    What  a  strange  exhilaration 
we  felt  as  we  inhaled  the  pure  lake  breeze,  whilst  the 
steamer  glided  along  the  waters  of  the  Mjosen.     We  had 
no  care.    The  moments  seemed  an  existence  of  perfect 
enjoyment,  with  only  a  short  span  dividing  us  from  our 
tents,  and  people,  and  first  Norwegian  camp,  whence  we 
should  wander  over  many  leagues   of  natm^e's  fairest 
scenes.    On  the  shores  of  the  lake,  to  our  right,  stand 
the  ruins  of  Stor  Hammer  cathedral,  forming  some  pictu- 
resque arches,  in  broken  decay,  nearly  all  that  remains  of 
a  once  noble  pile  destroyed  in  1567.     At  this  part  of  the 
lake,  George  Bidder,  once  renowned  as  the  calculating 
boy,  whose  wonderful  memory  and  rapid  calculations  we 
had  often  read  of  in  days  gone  by,  had  purchased  an 
estate.* 

*  George  Parkes  Bidder  was  bom  about  the  year  1800.  So  wonderful 
^ere  his  mental  powers  for  giving  ready  solution  to  the  most  difficult 
<lQe8tions  in  aritluneticy  without  the  aid  of  pen  or  pencil,  that  he  was  known 
i^  early  life  as  the  ''  Calculating  Boy."  Among  the  many  instances  of  hia 
ready  ability,  he  once  answered  in  a  very  short  time  the  foUowing  question  : 
—"Supposing  the  sun  be  95,000,000  of  miles  from  the  earth,  and  that  it 
were  possible  for  an  insect,  whose  pace  should  be  seven  and  a-half  inches 
per  minute,  to  travel  that  space,  how  long  would  it  take  him  to  reach  the 
«aar  Bidder  became  a  civil  engineer,  and  was  at  one  time  President  of 
the  Institution  of  Civil  Engineers. 


86  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOEWAY. 

Although  there  are  not  many  castles  in  Norway,  on 
the  island  of  Helgeo  are  the  ruins  of  a  fortress  built  by 
nako  IV.  The  old  church  of  Ringsaker,  on  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  lake,  is  said  to  possess  an  altar  curiously 
carved,  and  also  the  body  of  a  priest,  singularly  preserved 
from  the  ruthless  hand  of  time.*  The  old  church  is  said 
to  stand  on  the  battle-field  where  St.  Olaf  gained  one  of 
his  many  victories,  and  adds  one  more  interestiug  asso- 
ciation to  the  shores  of  the  Mjosen. 

Dinner  on  board  the  steamer  is  announced  as  "fertig'' 
(ready).  It  was  not  a  table  d'hote  consisting  of  many 
dishes,  but  a  substantial  meal  of  fish,  meat,  and  a  Nor- 
wegian dish,  of  which  milk  formed  a  large  ingredient. 
As  we  afterwards  lounged  on  deck,  the  Norwegian  officer 
looked  over  our  song,  gave  us  some  hints  of  pronuncia- 
tion of  Norsk  words,  and  said  the  English  verses  were 
well  translated  into  Norwegian.  The  song,  with  its 
engraved  bordure  of  gipsy  life  and  Norwegian  scenery, 
seemed  to  interest  him  very  much ;  and  before  he  left 
at  Hammer  he  was  much  pleased  with  the  copy  we 
presented  for  his  acceptance. 

One  large  island,  in  the  lake,  wo  were  told,  was  the 
most  fertile  in  Norway.  The  shores  of  the  lake  are  not 
very  far  distant  from  each  other.  All  was  sunshine,  with 
a  strong  breeze  upon  the  lake.  How  changed  the  scene 
in  winter.  One  of  the  passengers  told  us  the  winter 
continued  eight  months,  sometimes  even  nine  months. 
The  days  in  summer  are  often  very  warm,  and  the  nights 
cold.  The  homesteads  had  no  pretensions  to  Swiss 
decoration  ;  and  the  villages  had  a  similar  appearance  to 
a  new  settlement  in  Australia.     Without  the  forest  trees 

*  A  similar  inatance  is  mentioned  in  Lainf^'s  '<  Tour  in  Sweden." 


LILLEHAMMEK  87 

Norway  would  soon  be  a  sterile  spot.  Take  the  timber 
from  the  mountains,  and  all  would  be  a  barren,  cheerless 
wilderness  of  rocks  and  stones.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that 
government  will  one  day  restrain  the  rapid  destruction 
of  the  forests.  Even  in  England  the  shady  lanes  are 
fast  vanishing  before  the  close-cropped  hedge-rows; 
barely  a  fence  which  is  considered  necessary  in  this 
utiKtarian  age.  The  birds,  which  once  found  shelter  and 
convenience  for  building  their  nests,  are  diminishing 
fast,  and  one  must  often  listen  in  vain  for  their  clieerful 
song.* 

The  steamer  passed  a  very  picturesque  rocky  island 
towards  Lillehammer.  Only  one  traveller  now  remained 
who  spoke  English,  and  his  stock  was  limited,  consisting 
of  two  words.  Fortunately,  we  arranged  with  the  steward 
for  a  stock  of  three  bottles  of  brandy,  and  two  or  three 
bottles  of  St.  Jullien  claret,  before  the  officer  who  spoke 
English  left  the  vessel.  We  paid  one  dollar  for  our  fare, 
and  three  dollars  one  mark  and  eight  skillings  for  dinner, 
coffee,  ale,  bread  and  cheese,  three  bottles  of  brandy,  and 
two  of  claret.  We  tried  in  vain  to  pass  an  English  sove- 
reign, to  economise  our  small  coin.  The  steward  spoke 
a  little  English.  He  was  a  jolly-looking,  buzzy,  fuzzy, 
smick-smack,  smooth,  straight  up-and-down,  and  no 
mistake,  sort  of  fellow.  He  did  his  best  to  assist  us. 
We  soon  steamed  up  to  the  wooden  pier  below  Lille- 
hammer. Noah  was  standing  between  our  two  tents, 
pitched  on  a  rise  of  ground,  above  a  wooden  building  by 
the  pier.     Noah  saw  us  at  once,  and  came  down  to  the 

*  By  an  Act  of  Parliament,  35th  and  36th  Victoria,  chapter  78,  dated 
10th  August,  1872,  protection  is  now  given  to  a  large  number  of  wild  birds 
in  England  between  the  15th  March  and  Ist  August  in  each  year. 


88  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

pier  as  jauntily  as  possible,  with  a  pipe,  to  our  great 
surprise,  stuck  in  his  mouth. 

Waiting  until  the  passengers  had  gone  on  shore,  we 
called  Noah  on  board,  and  gave  him  the  bottles  to  carry- 
to  our  tents.  The  case  was  slung  on  to  the  pier.  The 
steward  referred  to  the  captain,  who  spoke  English,  and 
decided  that  the  amount  we  had  already  paid  included 
carriage  to  Lillehammer.  They  wished  us  good-by,  and 
we  left  the  vessel.  A  porter  from  one  of  the  hotels,  who 
came  to  us,  placed  the  case  on  a  truck,  and  we  told  him 
to  take  it  up  to  our  tents.  Esmeralda  came  forward  as 
we  approached  the  camp.  The  gipsies  were  much  pleased 
to  see  us  again,  Esmeralda  said  she  knew  we  were  on 
the  steamer.  Whilst  we  were  talking,  we  caught  sight 
of  the  truck  and  case  going  up  the  road  from  the  lake 
to  the  town  of  Lillehammer.  Noah  and  ourselves  went 
after  it,  and  soon  after  Noah  and  the  porter  brought  it  to 
the  tents.  The  case  was  a  large  wooden  box  of  consider- 
able weight.  With  much  satisfaction  we  contemplated 
its  arrival  in  camp.  The  tents  were  now  actually  pitched 
on  the  shore  of  the  beautiful  Mjosen  Lake.  Its  calm 
waters,  lovely  in  the  eventide,  and  the  quietude  of  nature, 
gave  us  one  more  glimpse  of  perfect  happiness. 


CHAPTER  X. 

''Let  ns  rest  a  bit  in  our  tent  this  fine  eTening  to  collect  our  memo- 
nnda  from  the  note-book  huniedly  pencillecL  Tet  it  is  not  ea.sj  to 
withdraw  the  eye  from  the  beautiful  picture  before  us,  framed  bj  the 
cuitaiaB  of  our  canvas  boudoir." — The  Rob  Rojf  on  the  Jordan. 

OCB   UBS!    CAMP— CAMP    VI8ITOBS — GIP8T    MUSIC— FOREIOX    TABLEAU — 

CUBI0U8    OBSERVATIONS FBEFA&ATIONS     FOB    DEPABTUEE  —  EABLT 

ffEABT— LAING's  SUGOESTIONS^THE  GCDBBANSDALEX — THE  HUKXKF03 
—THE  AUSTRALIAN  MEAT—CAMP  BULES — THE  PAIR  OF  GLOVES^ 
SUDDEN  SHADOWS — OUR  TALISMAN — NEW  FRIENDS. 

The  Mjosen  is  a  fine  lake.  The  scenery  is  not  bold, 
or  imposing  in  wild  and  rugged  outline,  but  it  is  beautiful 
and  pleasing.  There  is  a  richness  often  wanted  in  the 
wilder  scenes  of  nature.  Our  contemplation  must  be 
short;  we  have  work  to  do.  Noah  with  my  Tennant's 
geological  hammer  soon  began  to  loosen  the  nails  of  the 
provision-case.  A  crowd  of  boys,  who  gathered  round, 
and  the  tall  man  in  the  background,  rendered  the  gi*oup 
of  spectators  a  complete  study ;  there  was  an  expression 
of  deep  interest  as  Noah  loosened  every  nail.  Our 
gipsies  had  been  well  cared-for  by  the  gallant  captain  of 
the  Dronningen.  He  had  kindly  arranged  for  our 
people  to  pitch  their  tents  on  some  waste  ground  near 
the  lake ;  the  woman  of  the  house  above  seemed  to 
exercise  a  sort  of  right  over  it,  and  had  agreed  to  supply 
our  people  with  food  at  the  house.    She  was  an  ener- 


90  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

getic  old  woman,  with  not  a  very  good-tempered  expres- 
sion of  countenance,  but  she  had  been  very  attentive. 

The  captain  had  on  the  previous  evening  taken  our 
gipsies  in  a  boat  across  the  lake.  They  had  spent  the 
evening  very  pleasantly  with  himself  and  wife.  Some 
sympathy  was  expressed  for  the  separation  of  Esmeralda 
from  her  husband,  referring  to  myself.  The  gipsies,  we 
afterwards  understood,  had  a  gay  time  on  board  the 
Dronniiigen ;  they  played  at  the  captain's  request,  who 
collected  quite  a  fortune  for  them.  Noah  and  Zachariah* 
were  also  treated  to  cigars,  and  various  liquids  by  the 
passengers.  Their  voyage  on  the  Mjosen  Lake  seemed 
to  have  been  unusually  gay.  Once  more  we  were  in 
camp,  and  the  boys  from  the  town  above  kept  accumu- 
lating round  our  tents.  Then  we  went  up  the  road 
towards  Lillehammer  with  our  maps,  and  examined 
the  route,  and  the  direction  ready  for  our  jouniey  next 
morning.  When  we  returned,  it  was  eight  o'clock. 
There  were  so  many  people  about,  that  Esmeralda  and 
myself  went  up  to  the  woman's  house  to  have  coflfee. 
Noah  and  Zachariah  afterwards  took  their  turn  whilst 
we  stayed  at  the  tents.  Noah  had  our  instructions  to 
pay  the  woman,  but  he  was  quite  unable  to  regulate  the 
account.  We  found  the  old  woman,  who  was  exceed- 
ingly polite,  charged  us  three  dollars  for  our  coffee  that 
evening,  and  a  day  and  a  half  board  for  our  gipsies,  and 
the  use  of  the  waste  ground.  The  charge  was  nearly  as 
much  as  we  had  paid  at  the  comfortable  inn  at  Eidsvold, 
with   lodgings   for  a   longer  period.     The  gipsies  had 

•  After  the  foregoing  pages  had  passed  through  the  press,  we  succeeded 
in  obtaining  from  a  parish  in  Gloucestershire  the  certificate  of  baptism  of 
'*  Zacharia ;"  we  shall  therefore  in  future  give  the  name  exactly  as  it  is 
spelt  in  the  certificate  of  baptism. 


GIFSY  MUSia  91 

promised  her  some  music;  and  as  we  were  anxious  to 
pass  the  time  until  the  people  should  disperse,  Esmeralda 
and  Zachariah  came  up  to  play  one  or  two  tunes.  We 
had  an  upstairs  room,  very  bare  of  fiuiiiture,  containing 
odIj  a  small  table  and  sofa  and  two  or  three  chairs. 
Esmeralda  sat  on  the  sofa,  and  myself  and  Zacharia  at 
each  end  of  the  table.  Away  went  the  violin  and  the  tam- 
bourine,  waltzes  and  polkas,  in  rapid  succession.  The  old 
woman  walked  about  in  an  ecstacy.  Very  shortly  after- 
wards a  large  crowd  of  both  sexes  appeared  at  the  doors 
of  the  room,  and  we  motioned  for  them  to  dance  or  sit 
down.  In  came  the  steward  of  the  steamer,  smoking  a 
cigar,  and  the  cashier  with  him.  Bang,  bang,  went  the 
tambourine.  Esmeralda,  with  her  dark  eyes  flashing,  was 
no  mean  tambourinist.  With  regard  to  dancing  they 
seem  very  diflfident.  Chairs  were  brought,  and  the 
steward  and  cashier  were  accommodated.  The  former 
smoked,  and  seemed  on  the  best  of  terms  with  himself 
and  everybody  else.  He  was  a  good-humoured,  good- 
tempered  fellow,  and  pressed  us  to  have  something  to 
drink.  Notwithstanding  we  declined,  in  came  the 
woman  of  the  house  with  two  bottles  of  beer  and  glasses 
for  us.  The  bottles  were  uncorked  and  the  steward 
came  to  pour  out  the  beer ;  but  although  he  pressed  us 
to  take  some,  and  also  to  allow  our  gipsies  to  do  so,  we 
were  iSnn  in  our  determination.  With  an  air  of  almost 
disappointment  that  we  did  not  accept  their  hospitality, 
he  returned  to  his  seat.  Jingle,  jingle,  went  the  brasses 
of  the  tambourine.  The  room,  and  passages  to  it 
Became  quite  thronged.  The  steward  smoked;  the 
cashier  seemed,  we  thought,  to  look  with  apparent  admi- 
ration at  our  tambourinist.     We  had  evidently  an  ap- 


92  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOB  WAY. 

preciative  audience.  The  assemblage  reminded  us,  as 
we  sat  there  in  quiet  contemplation,  of  one  of  those 
foreign  scenes  at  times  represented  in  dramas  in  London. 
Gipsies,  foreign  costumes,  log-house,  landlady,  peasants 
with  knives  at  their  sides,  steward  of  steamer  and 
cashier,  wild  strip  of  broken  ground  below  the  house, 
tents,  donkeys,  steamer,  and  the  lake  beautiful  with  the 
shadow  of  declining  day^ — all  the  elements  of  romance 
were  there,  and  it  was  a  reality. 

We  looked  at  our  watch  :  it  was  nearly  ten.  We 
rose,  and  passing  through  the  visitors  wished  them  good 
evening,  and  were  soon  seated  in  our  tents.  Group  after 
group  of  people  came  thronging  down,  taking  a  cursory 
glance,  as  they  passed,  as  if  unwilling  to  intrude.  We 
were  busy  arranging  and  packing  our  things  for  the 
next  morning :  some  would  now  and  then  peep  in ;  one 
went  so  far  as  to  take  hold  of  our  tent  carpet  and 
examine  it.  Another  laid  hold  of  our  iron  kettle-prop 
outside,  and  it  was  amusing  to  see  the  earnest  discussion 
that  was  going  on  as  to  its  use.  An  intelligent  man 
with  a  benign  smile  made  a  motion  with  it,  as  if  making 
holes  in  the  ground,  and  whilst  pointing  to  the  tent-rods 
looked  at  us  for  confirmation.  He  was  evidently  much 
gratified  by  our  nod  of  assent.  The  centre  of  attraction 
were  the  donkeys ;  party  after  party  firom  Lillehammer 
swept  by  our  tents  along  the  broken  ground,  to  the  spot 
where  our  donkeys  stood.  They  were  examined  with  an 
earnestness  which  showed  our  friends  to  be  warmly 
attached  to  the  subject  of  natural  history.  The  steward 
came  up  to  our  tents,  soon  after  we  left  the  house,  and 
pressed  us  to  come  with  him  on  board  the  steamer,  but 
we  declined;  whereupon  he  took  off  his  hat  and  left. 


EARLY  START.  93 

The  goods  porter  of  the  steamer  wandered  about  our 
tents  for  some  time,  and  at  last  came  up  and  said  ho 
wanted  half  a  dollar  more  for  the  carriage  of  the  case. 
When  we  took  out  our  money  to  pay  him,  he  said  it  was 
a  dollar.  Perhaps  we  misunderstood  him  at  first.  Tlie 
captain  had  said  we  had  nothing  more  to  pay  ;  but,  not 
having  any  time  to  investigate  the  matter,  we  trusted 
to  the  proverbial  honesty  of  the  Norwegians,  and  so  paid 
the  dollar  required.  Taking  advantage  of  a  lull  in  the 
nnmber  of  the  visitors,  as  it  was  becoming  late,  the  case 
was  unpacked.  Then  more  visitors  came  ;  but  we  went 
on  and  repacked  our  provisions  in  our  bags,  for  carriage 
the  next  morning  on  our  donkeys.  Some  of  the  lookers- 
on  near  our  tents  criticised  our  biscuits,  and  especially 
our  pea-flour  which  was  scattered  over  everything. 
They  did  so  good  humouredly,  and  seemed  astonished  at 
our  stores.  Zachariah  launched  the  empty  case  on  the 
lake  below.  Our  visitors  at  last  became  few  in  number, 
and  less  frequent. 

Esmeralda  carefally  packed  up  her  dress  with  the 
silver  buttons.  She  had  hung  it  on  a  bush  near  the 
tents  after  they  had  arrived  at  Lillehammer.  The  blue 
dress  and  the  silver  buttons  gleaming  in  the  sun  must 
have  been  a  pleasing  sight  At  last  we  went  to  bed ; 
that  is,  we  retired  to  sleep  on  our  waterproof  rug  and 
carpet  within  our  tent  partition.  The  indistinct  sound 
of  voices  outside  our  tents  and  the  noise  of  persons  who 
appeared  to  be  wandering  about  the  donkeys  still  con- 
tinued, but  we  were  all  soon  asleep.  The  thermometer 
had  been  at  86"*  Fahrenheit  in  the  day. 

The  hum  of  a  small  mosquito  awoke  us  at  about  two 


94  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

o'clock  in  the  morning ;  at  half-past  two  o'clock  we 
roused  our  gipsies.  The  things  were  soon  packed  on  the 
donkeys  by  Noah,  who  was  an  excellent  packer.  We 
finally  struck  our  camp  at  three  o'clock  a.m.  The  house 
where  our  coffee  had  been  supplied  the  previous  evening 
was  shut  up,  and  wrapt  in  silence  ;  the  woman  of  the  house 
was  possibly  slumbering  with  the  three  dollars  under 
her  pillow.  The  steamer  lay  moored  at  the  wooden 
pier,  where  the  steward  and  cashier,  if  they  slept  on 
board,  may  have  been  dreaming  of  the  dark-eyed  gitana. 

How  silent  all  seemed  in  the  early  morning  on  the 
banks  of  the  Mjosen  Vand.  Not  a  soul  stirring,  save  one 
solitary  fisherman  in  his  boat  in  the  far  distance  upon  the 
lake.  With  our  Alpine  stocks,  tents,  and  baggage, 
donkeys  and  gipsies,  we  slowly  ascended  the  road  to 
Lillehammer.  How  delightful  in  the  freshness  of  the 
early  morning  to  commence  our  nomadic  wandering  of 
many  days.  Laing  says,  in  his  excellent  work  on  Nor- 
way,* "  A  young  and  clever  English  sportsman,  especi- 
ally if  he  had  a  taste,  also,  for  any  branch  of  natural 
history,  ought  to  pass  a  summer  very  agreeably  with  his 
rifle,  fishing-rod,  and  his  tent,  among  the  fjelde  and  lakes, 
encamping  where  fancy  and  sport  might  lead  him,  and 
carry  all  his  accommodation  on  a  couple  of  ponies." 

As  we  passed  through  the  town  of  Lillehammer  we 
noticed  that  most  of  the  windows  were  shut ;  the  inha- 
bitants were  enjoying  their  morning  sleep.  We  felt 
thankful  that  we  carried  our  home  with  us.  Lillehammer 
is  not  without  its  associations ;  its  former  cathedral  and 

*  "Journal  of  a  Residence  in  Norway  during  the  years  1834,  1835, 
1836."  By  Samuel  Laing,  Esq.  Published  by  Longman,  Orme,  Browne,  & 
Co.,  in  1837. 


THE  GUDBRANSDALEN.  9:1 

monastery  were  originally  founded  by  an  Englishman, 
Nicholas  Breakspear,  in  1160.  He  was  afterwards  Tope 
Hadrian  IV.  As  we  passed  down  the  long  street,  one 
man  was  on  tLe  look-ont ;  with  hot  haste  he  rushed  to 
the  back  of  the  house,  as  if  to  apprise  some  one  else  of 
our  coming ;  he  returned  as  we  were  going  by,  and  said 
**  Ya,  ya !  "  when  we  asked  if  we  were  in  the  right  road  for 
Ilolmen ;  then  standing  in  the  street,  he  gazed  after  us 
imtil  we  were  out  of  sight. 

With  feelings  of  bright  anticipation  we  had  entered  the 
long  and  fertile  valley  of  the  Gudbrandsdalen.*  Com- 
mencing at  Lillehammer,  the  valley  of  Gudbrcansdalcn 
extends  168  miles  to  the  foot  of  Dovre  Fjeld.  Our  route 
is  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Logen.  Many  cultivated 
farms  occupy  the  lower  portions  of  the  often  narrow 
valley  on  each  side  of  the  main  road,  while  hills  and  pine 
woods  rise  above  them  on  either  side. 

We  all  felt  particularly  hungry  as  we  pushed  on  for 
some  distance  along  a  good  road  on  the  right  of  the 
river  Logen.  Coming  to  a  small  stream  of  water  on  the 
road-side,  we  partly  unloaded  our  donkeys ;  on  a  small 
space  of  rough  ground  the  gipsies  lighted  a  fire,  and 
prepared  our  breakfast  of  tea,  sardines,  and  college 
biscuits.  One  large  carriage  and  pair  passed  us  eii  route 
for  Lillehammer ;  a  pony  with  carriole  was  tied  behind  it, 
and  all  were  jogging  along  at  a  comfortable  pace,  with 
the  occupants  fast  asleep.  Noah  commenced  repack- 
ing our  donkeys,  when  a  timber  cart  passed  with  two 
men  upon  it ;  one  wore  a  red  cap.  They  stopped  and 
scanned  our  donkeys  with  curious  eyes ;  then  they 
vrished  to  know  why  we  did  not  use  the  donkeys  to  draw 

•  Sometmies  spelt  Guldbransdalen,  meaning  the  "Golden  VaUey.** 


96  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

a  carriage.  The  man  in  the  red  cap  offered  Esmeralda  a 
seat  on  his  timber,  which,  though  kindly  meant,  was  not 
accepted.  They  went  on  before  us,  and  evidently  made 
known  our  coming,  for  from  time  to  time  men  and 
women  rushed  up  to  the  fences  on  the  road-side  to  look 
at  our  cavalcade ; — it  was  a  very  picturesque  one,  includ- 
ing Zachariah  almost  fast  asleep  on  one  of  the  loaded 
donkeys.  As  we  proceeded  we  were  overtaken  by  a 
carriage,  in  which  we  recognised  the  inn  porter  who  had 
assisted  us  with  our  case  from  the  steamer.  The  two 
traveller  in  the  carriage  had  been  oiu:  fellow-passengers 
by  the  steamer  on  the  Mjosen ;  they  took  off  their  hats. 
Another  carnage  afterwards  followed,  and  another  steam- 
boat passenger  took  off  his  hat  and  recognised  us  again* 
We  were  now  some  miles  from  Lillehammer,  and  Noah 
was  sent  to  try  a  roadside  house  for  bread ;  the  woman, 
who  spoke  a  little  English,  recommended  a  house  beyond. 
Coming  soon  after  to  an  old  road  leading  below  the  new 
main  route — along  the  edge  a  deep  declivity  covered  with 
trees  and  bushes,  which  formed  the  lofty  bank  of  the 
rapid  foaming  river  Logen — we  halted.  We  were  in 
sight  of  the  falls  called  the  Hunnefos.  The  river  is 
broad  and  rapid;  and  the  falls,  although  not  of  great 
height,  are  nevertheless  picturesque.  Above  the  old 
road  an  embankment  of  loose  stones  sloped  up  to  the 
main  route,  which  was  not  very  far  above  us,  although 
overlooked  from  the  road ;  the  spot  now  overgrown  with 
short  turf  was  sufficiently  level  and  out  of  the  way  for 
our  camp.  We  were  all  rather  sleepy,  and  wanted  rest ; 
the  day  had  become  very  hot.  Esmeralda  had  not  felt  very- 
well  ;  a  very  small  quantity  of  quinine  helped  her  on  the 
journey.    Having  decided  to  remain  here,  the  donkeys 


AUSTRALIAN  MEAT.  97 

were  driven  down  the  old  road  for  a  short  distance. 
From  this  spot  we  had  a  heautifiil  view  of  the  falls ;  our 
camp  was  probably  not  far  from  the  station  of  Aronsveen. 
It  was  delightful  to  lounge  among  our  baggage  after  we 
had  unpacked.  The  road  being  a  sort  of  cul-de-sac,  we 
left  the  donkeys  to  ramble  below.  Noah  went  in  search 
of  bread  and  butter  to  a  farm-house,  and  procured  a  small 
loaf  and  half  a  pound  of  butter,  for  one  mark  and  a  half; 
the  loaf  was  black  bread  and  small.  Several  very  heavy 
showers  came  on,  but  our  light  siphonia  waterproof  from 
Edmiston's  kept  all  om:  things  perfectly  dry.  Dinner 
was  prepared  at  about  one  o'clock  ;  a  case  of  the 
AustraUan  cooked  mutton  was  opened  :  with  some  hesita- 
tion we  had  added  Australian  meat  to  our  commissariat ; 
we  had  ventured  to  take  it,  like  the  skater  who  tries  the 
ice  for  the  first  time.  Our  sardine-opener  in  the  form  of 
a  fish,  which  cost  6c/.,  soon  gave  us  access  to  the  tin  of 
meat.  All  pronounced  the  Australian  preserved  mutton 
excellent.  Esmeralda,  who  had  been  very  sleepy  and  not 
very  well,  though  revived  by  the  quinine,  did  not  entirely 
recover  until  after  dinner.  A  bottle  of  claret  was  shared 
amongst  us.  It  was  our  first  day  in  camp,  and  our  rule 
of  no  stimulants  or  smoking  allowed  was  not  rigidly  en- 
forced. Two  songs  with  the  guitar  enlivened  the  party ; 
then  a  duet,  violin  and  guitar ;  afterwards  a  duet,  violin 
and  tambourine ;  finale,  all  the  instruments  together. 
Noah  was  chaffed  as  usual.  The  sun  became  so  hot  after 
dinner,  that  we  could  scarcely  bear  our  terrace,  placed  as 
we  were  at  the  foot  of  an  embankment  of  loose  bare 
rocks.  The  donkeys  escaped  and  went  towards  Lille- 
hammer.  Noah  had  fallen  asleep,  but  starting  up  in  a 
sort  of  stupor,  at  length  succeeded  in  bringing  them  back. 


98  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

Some  of  the  people  passing  along  the  main  route  stopped 
to  gaze  at  Noah.  Some  few  came  down,  and  a  small 
glass  of  brandy  was  handed  to  them  to  drink  Gamle 
Norge.  It  was  after  all  very  convenient  not  to  be  able 
to  answer  all  the  questions  asked ;  much  trouble  was 
saved.  .  We  had  provisions,  and  it  was  not  of  much  con- 
sequence to  us,  in  the  way  we  had  chosen  to  travel,  if  we 
did  not  understand  many  words,  and  could  not  satisfy  all 
curiosity.  The  trout  from  -the  Mjosen,  it  is  said,  cannot 
ascend  the  falls  of  the  Honnefos ;  they  are  exceedingly 
good,  and  some  are  stated  to  have  weighed  36  lbs. 
Gipsies  being  a  restless  people,  Noah  and  Zachariah  were 
sent  to  fish  with  two  rods  and  some  small  trout  flies ;  we 
had  no  hope  of  their  catching  anything,  but  it  employed 
their  time,  and  was  an  occupation  for  them.  The  water 
was  a  light  snowy  blue,  with  a  strong  and  rapid  stream. 
Esmeralda  felt  sleepy,  and  was  threatened  with  the  loss 
of  a  pair  of  gloves ;  yet  we  felt  that  we  could  not  play 
with  her,  or  approach  her  on  any  other  terms  than  were 
honourable  to  both.  We  worked  at  our  notes  and  maps 
while  the  gipsy  maiden  slept,  and  her  brothers  slashed 
the  water  in  the  rapids  below;  about  seven  o'clock 
Noah  and  Zachariah  returned,  as  I  expected,  without 
any  matchee  (fish).*  A  number  of  people  came  down  the 
embankment  occasionally  to  look  with  curious  interest  on 
the  donkeys.  The  animals  were  carefully  examined,  and 
another  page  was  added  to  the  natural  history  of 
Aronsveen.  One  interesting  young  person  came  and 
looked  from  the  road  above  at  Noah  with  much  .interest ; 
she  afterwards  came  a  second  time,  and  lingered  ere  she 

•  Norwegian  gipsy  mattjo,  sometimes  in  English  gipsy  pronounced 
matcho. 


SUDDEN  SHADOWS.  09 

m 

left.  We  decided  tliat,  as  we  bad  started  so  early,  we 
should  rest  where  we  ^ere  for  the  night,  and  start  early 
the  next  morning,  about  four  o'clock. 

Noah,  after  a  coaching  in  Norwegian  words,  went  to 
seek  bread-and-butter  (smor  og  brod)  at  the  farm-house. 
He  was  to  display  some  money  in  his  open  hand  as  an 
additional  inducement.  No  result  beiug  reported  on  his 
return,  we  sent  him  a  second  time  to  the  charge  for 
fladbrod,  but  they  had  not  got  any  to  part  with.  We 
lighted  our  fire ;  tea  was  made,  and  a  pleasant  meal  of 
fried  bacon,  college  biscuits  and  butter,  was  soon  con- 
cluded. Bread  was  bought,  when  we  had  the  chance,  in 
order  to  save  our  biscuits. 

It  was  now  decided  to  have  our  tents  pitched  for  the 
night.  Noah  had  just  made  the  holes  with  the  kettle- 
prop,  and  was  putting  in  the  tent  rods,  when  a  number 
of  people  suddenly  appeared  at  the  edge  of  the  embank- 
ment above.  Down  came  a  tall  gentleman,  apparently 
between  fifty  and  sixty,  followed  by  probably  his  son 
and  a  short  stout  gentleman.  He  said  something  in  a 
tone  of  authority  to  Noah,  who,  not  understanding  Avhat 
^as  said,  went  on  calmly  with  his  tent-pitching.  We 
^vere  at  a  short  distance  firom  Noah  with  Esmeralda, 
arranging  some  of  our  baggage.  It  appeared  to  us  that 
something  about  illegal  was  said :  breakers  ahead  crossed 
our  mind ;  we  must  port  helm.  We  advanced  to  Noah's 
assistance,  and  said  in  Norsk— "Good  evening ;"  then  we 
quietly  reached  out  our  silver-mounted  flask,  and  pouring 
out  a  small  glass  of  brandy,  handed  it  to  the  senior  of 
the  party.  He  handed  it  back  politely  for  us  to  drink 
first.    We  just  tasted  it,  and  said,  Gamle  Norge.*     He 

•  Old  Norway. 

II  2 


100  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

took  a  small  sip  and  then  emptied  the  glass.  We  poured 
out  another  and  handed  it  to  the  younger  visitor,  whom 
we  took  to  be  the  son,  a  well-dressed,  nice-looking, 
gentlemanly  young  fellow,  who  drank  some  of  it.  His 
father  seemed  one  whose  views  of  the  world  were  stem 
and  not  on  the  lively  side  of  the  picture.  His  son  had 
a  pleasant  twinkle  in  the  eye,  and  seemed  rather  amused 
at  the  scene.  The  father  then  began  apparently  asking 
questions.  We  did  not  understand  much  of  what  he 
said,  and  Noah  and  Zachariah  continued  putting  in  the 
tent-rods,  without  troubling  themselves  about  the  matter. 
It  was  necessary  to  say  something,  and  we  informed 
them  we  were  going  at  four  o'clock  next  morning,  pointing 
to  our  watch ;  and  thinking  it  best  to  clench  the  afifair,  we 
quietly  opened  our  courier-bag,  and  handed  the  document 
kindly  given  us  by  the  Presten  Eilert  Sundt.  We  felt 
much  in  the  position  of  the  Harlequin  and  Columbine, 
who  are  suddenly  brought  to  a  dead  lock  in  a  Christmas 
representation,  and  have  to  invoke  for  their  safety  some 
good  genius  of  extraordinary  power.  We  quickly  ob- 
served the  countenance  of  the  senior  gentleman  who 
commenced  reading.  "  Herr  Hubert  Smith  from  England, 
with  Tater  (Rommanes  gipsies),  three  donkeys,  and  two 
tents,  &c.,  travelling  from  Christiania  to  Romsdal, 
Voringfos,  &c.,  to  Christiansand,  to  see  the  country  and 
study  the  Norwegian  gipsies,  etc. ;  with  a  final  request 
that  we  should  have  help  and  assistance  from  his 
countrymen,''  &c.*  When  our  visitors  came  to  the  sig- 
nature, "Eilert  Sundt! ! !''  said  the  senior  gentleman  in  a 
deep  whisper  to  his  son ;  the  son,  who  was  also  looking 
over  the  paper,  seemed  equally  astonished.     They  ex- 

*  The  ori^nal  document  is  written  in  the  Norwegian  language. 


OUR  TALISMAN.  101 

amined  the  seal  for  a  few  moments,  and  handed  the 
document  back.  Without  saying  more,  they  watched 
the  tents  which  were  put  up  soon  after.  They  seemed 
rather  surprised  at  our  tent  with  all  its  paraphernalia 
and  fittings,  and  then  politely  lifting  their  hats  and  bow- 
ing, without  another  word  they  suddenly  left  the  scene. 
The  people  who  were  collected  on  the  top  of  the  embank- 
ment as  spectators  evidently  did  not  seem  to  understa^nd 
how  it  was.  Perhaps  some  terrific  example  was  expected 
to  be  made  of  our  tall  gipsy,  Noah,  as  a  warning  to  all 
the  gipsies  in  Norway.  It  is  impossible  to  say,  and  pro- 
bably it  will  remain  one  of  the  links  in  the  history  of  our 
wanderings  which  can  never  be  supplied,  nor  is  it  of 
much  consequence. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Ewn  law  law,  cymin*rwii  lili, 
A'u  blodau*n  rhanau  i  ni, 
A  bysedd  rhwymwn  bosi, 
Ffel  yw  hyn  nid  ffol  wyt  ti, 
Bhoet  yn  glds,  f el  ar  roeyn, 
Gwlwm  da  ar  galon  dyn. 

Let's  band  in  hand  pursue  our  way. 

And  pluck  the  lily  as  we  stray, 

Its  flowers  pretty  we  will  take,— 

Our  fingers  can  a  poey  make. 

This,  and  with  a  fragrant  rose. 

Place  on  man's  heart,  whence  goodness  flows. 

WtUh  PennUlion,  b^  Leathabt. 

NIGHT     ALARM—THE    PURU    RAWNEB — DONKEYS    ADMIRED  •— NORWEGIAN 

FONIEB  —  OUR    GIPSY    LIFE — NORWEGIAN     FLOWERS — WILD     FOREST 

THE    PIPE  OF   TOBACCO — PICTURES     OF    IMAGINATION — THE     CRIPPLED- 
MAN— CAMP     NEAR     HOLMEN — NOAH'S     SELF-DENIAL — ^WET      NIGHT — 

PEASANT  girls'  SERENADE— ZACHARIAH's  GAIETY — LOVELY  NATURE 

NORWEGIAN  NEWSPAPER— THE  MYSTERY  EXPLAINED— FROKOST  SPOILT. 

Our  tents  were  pitched  with  a  balk  towards  the 
embankment,  made  with  our  blue  rug  embellished  with 
foxes'  heads.  The  rug  was  stretched  along  our  Alpine 
stocks  driven  in  the  ground.  At  the  top  of  the  embank- 
ment,  some  of  the  people  still  remained  watching.  Our 
large  siphonia  waterpi-oof  was  stretched,  and  fastened 
over  the  intervening  space  between  the  tents.  Only  an 
opening  was  left  close  to  the  edge  of  the  steep  and 
almost  perpendicular  declivity. 


THE  FXmU  BAWNEE.  103 

The  sound  of  the  river  was  music  to  us,  as  it  foamed 
in  the  stillness  of  the  night.  We  retired  within  tlie 
parascenium  or  partition  of  our  tent,  and  were  soon 
asleep.  Soundly  we  slept,  lulled  by  the  roar  of  the 
Ms  of  the  Honnefos ;  we  did  not  even  hear  the  noise 
of  a  small  stone  afterwards  thrown  against  the  tent  from 
above,  or  the  rush  of  Noah  and  Zachariah  outside  with 
nothing  on  but  their  shirts,  nor  their  shouts  to  the 
people  above,  who  only  laughed,  and  had  no  doubt  done 
it  merely  to  take  a  last  fond  look  of  our  tall  gipsy,  Noah. 
They  must  have  been  profoundly  impressed  by  their 
very  picturesque  attire. 

We  awoke  at  12.20 ;  it  was  rather  too  early  for  our 
start,  so  we  turned,  missed  the  time,  and  awoke  at  half- 
past  five  instead  of  four  o  clocks  The  word  was  given. 
All  were  soon  stirring.  It  had  rained  heavily  in  the 
night.  Tents  were  struck,  donkeys  packed ;  at  a  quarter 
past  seven  o'clock  we  were  en  route.  Esmeralda  was 
as  lively  as  possible.  We  were  all  in  excellent  spirits, 
our  donkeys  stepping  out  bravely  with  their  loads.  Our 
beautiful  Pura  Rawnee  leads  the  way,  the  hawk  bells 
jingling  on  its  light  collar  of  scarlet  bockiug.  At  every 
place  we  passed,  we  had  a  rush  of  the  country  peasants 
to  see  us.  It  was  amusing  to  observe  their  eagerness 
to  be  in  time,  as  they  left  their  occupations  in  hot  haste 
to  gaze  upon  our  donkeys.  At  some  places  we  had  been 
expected.  Some  mysterious  intimation  had  been  given, 
and  the  peasants  were  ready  drawn  up  waiting  with 
great  expectations  our  approach.  As  we  journeyed 
onwards,  it  was  desirable  to  buy  In'ead  to  save  our  stock 
of  biscuits.  Noah  tried  at  one  or  two  houses.  The 
first  was  a  large  house  where  they  were  evidently  waiting 


104  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

our  arrival.  The  windows  were  embellished  by  many- 
heads  :  the  female  sex  predominated ;  most  of  the  males 
appeared  in  a  courtyard  opening  to  the  road.  "  Try 
here/'  we  said  to  Noah,  giving  him  some  money  to 
take  in  his  hand,  "  and  say,  *  smor  og  brod.' "  He  was 
not  successfiil,  for  he  was  shown  into  a  large  room,  with 
coffee,  breads  &c.,  on  the  table.  Probably  he  could  not 
make  any  one  understand,  or  they  had  no  bread  to  sell, 
for  he  returned  empty-handed.  One  man  we  noticed 
soon  afterwards  running  in  the  distance  across  the  fields. 
It  was  amusing  to  see  the  wild  struggles  he  made  to 
be  in  time.  With  much  sympathy  for  his  unwonted 
efforts  to  accomplish  so  much  speed,  we  had  regulated 
the  pace  of  our  donkeys  to  give  him  a  chance. 

At  last  we  came  to  a  quiet  part  of  the  road  between 
two  fir  woods,  with  a  narrow  space  of  green  sward  on 
each  side;  a  rippling  stream  crossed  the  road  in  its 
course  to  the  River  Logan.  The  sun  gleamed  pleasantly 
forth.  Our  fire  ttas  Boon  lighted,  and  our  meal  consisted 
of  biscuit,  Australian  pl'e^erved  meat,  and  tea.  The 
Australian  meat  was  much  appreciated  as  an  edible: 
we  were  all  agreeably  surprised  to  find  it  so  good.  In 
a  country  like  Norway,  it  is  indispensable  to  those  who 
seek  the  freedom  of  camp-life.  As  we  concluded  our 
meal  down  came  the  rain,  but  we  were  prepared,  and  all 
our  things  were  immediately  under  our  large  waterproof. 
Then  we  sheltered  ourselves  with  the  waterproof  rugs, 
and  quietly  waited  for  the  heavy  shower  to  cease.  Several 
carrioles  were  driven  by,  and  some  carts  passed.  Noah 
had  to  lead  one  pony  who  shied  at  our  donkeys  j  another 
pony  had  to  be  taken  out  and  coaxed  by  them.  The 
Norwegian  ponies,  who  are  the  most  docile  animals  in 


OITR  GIPSY  LIFE.  la") 

the  world,  were  often  suspicious  of  our  harmless  donkeys, 
who,  quietly  browsing,  looked  as  unlike  dangerous 
ferocity  as  could  possibly  be  imagined.  The  rain  ceased. 
It  was  eleven.  Esmeralda  and  ourselves  pushed  on 
aloDg  the  road  with  two  donkeys  already  loaded,  whilst 
Noah  and  Zachariah  were  putting  the  remaining  baggage 
on  the  third.  When  they  came  in  sight  shortly  after- 
wards, Esmeralda  said  we  must  pretend  to  be  strange 
gipsies,  and  ask  them  where  they  were  gelling  to. 

"  Shawshon  baugh  ?  "  (how  do  you  do),  said  Esmeralda, 
drawing  herself  up  with  an  assumed  look  of  contempt,  as 
her  brothers  came  up  with  their  donkey  and  baggage. 

"  Shawshon  baugh  ? ''  said  they ;  "  where  be  you  a 
gelling  (going)  to  ?  I  suppose  you  Romany's  have  been 
married  some  time." 

"  Howah,"  (yes)  said  Esmeralda,  "  we've  been  married 
about  a  year." 

We  must  confess  to  a  queer  sensation  that  by  some 
gipsy  incantation  we  were  no  longer  free. 

"Which  is  your  merle?"  (gip.,  donkey),  demanded 
Noah,  stalking  up  to  the  front. 

'*  That's  mandys  "  (mine),  said  Esmeralda,  pointing  to 
the  Puru  Rawnee,  which  she  claimed  for  her  own. 
Gipsy  wives  have  evidently  separate  rights  of  property, 
thought  we,  which  we  were  not  before  aware  of.  **  The 
^ther  is  my  husband's,"  said  Esmeralda,  looking  at  us 
^ith  her  dark  eyes,  which  made  us  feel  as  if  we  were 
morged  into  another  individuality. 

'*Will  you  gipsies  chaffer  with  us?"  said  Noah  and 
Zachariah. 

But  we  remarked,  "  Your  merle's  got  no  tail."  This 
was  said  in  disparagement  of  the  one  supposed  to  be 


106  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

theirs,  for  our  donkeys  were  by  no  means  wantmg  in 
this  respect.  The  tail  of  one  was  perhaps  rather  smaller 
than  the  other's. 

"  Why/*  said  Esmeralda,  **  that's  yom-  donkey.  You 
don't  kno^  one  merle  from  another." 

They  had  got  mixed,  and  we  had  mistaken  the  one 
just  come  up.  The  serious  earnestness  of  the  gipsy  girl 
gave  us  a  hearty  laugh.  So  they  went  on  rockering 
(talking)  in  their  Romany  mous  (gipsy  language).  As  we 
journeyed  onwards,  how  fragrant  the  wild  flowers.  Those 
wild  flowers  of  Norway  can  never  be  forgotten.  Gipsies 
like  flowers,  it  is  part  of  their  nature.  Esmeralda  would 
pluck  them,  and,  forming  a  charming  bouquet  inter- 
spersed with  beautiful  wild  roses,  her  first  thought  was 
to  pin  them  in  the  button-hole  of  the  Romany  Rye 
(gipsy  gentleman).  We  were  not  the  only  party  with 
tents  and  baggage ;  for  we  had  noticed,  as  we  passed 
along  the  road  from  Lillehammer,  a  number  of  white 
military  tents  pitched  in  the  valley  below  us,  on  a 
pleasant  flat  of  turf  land  on  the  opposite  side  the  River 
Logan.  We  were  informed  afterwards,  it  was  an  en- 
campment of  the  Norwegian  militia  for  military  training. 

Shortly  afterwards  we  passed  a  large  house  near  the 
roadside,  which  appeared  to  be  a  gjoestgiver  gaard. 
The  people  came  out  to  look  at  us.  Noticing  some 
articles  for  sale  in  the  window,  we  sent  Noah  back  with 
some  money,  and  he  soon  after  returned  with  ten  loaves 
of  bread,  and  a  pound  and  a  half  of  butter,  for  which  he 
paid  four  marks  and  a  half.  Noah  said  he  bought  all 
the  bread  they  had.  We  were  so  well  pleased  with  the 
acquisition,  that,  finding  it  was  a  general  shop,  Zachariah 
was   sent  back   to  replace   his  dilapidated  hat   with  a 


WILD  FOREST.  107 

new  wide-a-wake,  which  cost  us  one  dollar.  Wlien 
we  examined  the  hat  on  his  return,  we  read  within  it 
the  well-known  English  name  of  Christy.  Noah  and 
Zachariah  had  each  invested  in  a  handkerchief;  Noah's 
consisted  of  four  pictures  of  the  loudest  pattern.  Noah's 
commercial  transactions  had  also  extended  to  a  pipe 
and  tobacco,  and  he  appeared  smoking  it  to  the  disgust 
of  the  rest  of  the  party.  Indications  of  coming  rain 
caused  us  to  arrange  the  waterproofs  over  our  baggage. 
Several  people  came  up  to  look  at  our  donkeys. 

The  bread  being  packed  safely  away,  we  again  pushed 
on,  and  entered  a  wild,  thick  forest  at  the  foot  of  some 
steep  rocky  hills.  The  River  Logan  was  not  far  to  our 
left.  Taking  the  first  opportunity,  we  now  told  Noah 
that  it  was  contrary  to  the  rules  of  our  camp  to  smoke, 
and  that  he  must  at  once  give  up  his  pipe  and  tobacco. 

"No,  no,  sir,''  said  Noah,  in  a  melancholy  tone,  "I 
must  have  some  tobacco." 

'*  Well,  Noah,"  we  replied,  "  we  must  have  our  wish, 
we  have  always  done  what  we  could  for  you,  and  we 
expect  some  sacrifice  in  return.'' 

Esmeralda  and  Zachariah  joined  in  the  request. 

A  slight  cloud  passed  over  Noah's  look  as  he  dropped 
behind.  We  must,  however,  do  him  the  justice  to  say 
that  his  temper  was  excellent.  Noah  was  ever  cheerful 
imder  the  greatest  difficulties. 

As  we  quietly  journeyed  through  the  forest,  how  de- 
lightful its  scenes.  Free  firom  all  care,  we  enjoy  the 
anticipation  of  a  long  and  pleasant  ramble  in  Norway's 
happy  land.  We  felt  contented  with  all  things,  and 
thankful  that  we  should  be  so  permitted  to  roam,  with 
our  tents  and  wild  children  of  nature  in  keeping  with 


108  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

the  solitudes  we  sought.  So  we  travelled  onwards  to- 
wards Holmen.  The  rain  had  soon  ceased.  Tinkle, 
tinkle  went  the  hawk-bells  on  the  collar  of  our  Puru 
Rawnee,  as  she  led  the  way  along  the  romantic 
Norwegian  road. 

''  Give  the  snakes  and  toads  a  twist, 
And  banish  them  for  eyer/' 

sang  Zachariah,  ever  and  anon  giving  similar  wild 
snatches.  Then  Esmeralda  would  rocker  about  being  the 
wife  of  the  Romany  Rye,  and  as  she  proudly  paced  along 
in  her  heavy  boots,  she  pictured,  in  painful  imagery,  the 
pleasant  Ufe  we  should  lead  as  her  Romany  mouche.  She 
was  full  of  fun  :  yet  there  was  nothing  in  her  fanciful  de- 
lineations which  could  offend  us.  They  were  but  the  foam 
of  the  crested  wave,  soon  dissipated  in  air.  They  were  the 
evanescent  creations  of  a  lively,  open-hearted  girl.  Wild 
notes  trilled  by  the  bird  of  the  forest.  We  came  again 
into  the  open  valley.  Down  a  meadow  gushed  a  small 
streamlet,  which  splashed  from  a  wooden  spout  on  to  the 
road-side  below.  From  a  log  cottage  in  the  meadow 
above,  a  man  quickly  crawled  down  the  steep  bank,  like 
a  spider  along  in  his  web.  He  took  his  station  on  the 
bank  near  the  streamlet's  falling  water.  The  man  was 
pale  and  wan,  and  begged  for  alms.  He  seemed  to  have 
no  use  in  his  legs.  Could  we  refuse  ?  We  who  roamed 
free  as  the  birds  of  the  air.  We  gave  him  some  skillings. 
The  man  seemed  very  thankful,  and  we  soon  after  saw 
him  crawling  slowly  up  to  his  small  wooden  cottage, 
from  whence  he  commanded  a  view  of  the  road.  Now 
we  came  near  the  river-side,  and  pushed  along  to  find  a 
camping  ground.  We  had  again  forest  on  either  side. 
The  river  was  near,  and  on  the  hills  of  the  narrow  valley 


CAMP  NEAR  HOLMEX.  109 

we  could  see  many  farms.  At  last  we  decided  to  carap 
on  a  rise  of  ground  above  the  road  :  an  open  woodland, 
on  tlie  edge  of  the  thick  forest,  which  covered  the  hill 
above.  The  road  wall  was  broken  down  in  one  place, 
giviog  passage  for  the  donkeys,  after  we  had  unloaded 
them.  Our  things  were  hoisted  up,  and  soon  carried  to 
a  pleasant  slope,  partly  secluded  with  scattered  brush- 
wood and  trees,  having  a  view  of  the  road,  river,  and 
lofty  hiUs  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley.  The  rain 
commenced  as  we  were  pitching  our  tents.  The  first 
losses  we  discovered  were  our  two  caps  and  guard,  with 
a  carved  fish  at  the  end  of  it,  and  the  green  veil  in  which 
they  were  wrapped.  It  was  provoking.  They  must  have 
heen  left  on  the  roadside  when  we  halted  near  the  house 
where  we  bought  the  ten  loaves  of  bread ;  probably  near 
Gillebo  or  Skardsmoen.  They  were  of  black  felt,  and 
we  were  now  left  with  only  the  straw  hat  we  then  wore. 
Our  tents  had  not  been  long  pitched,  and  our  fire  made, 
when  a  tall,  pale  man  came  to  us  from  the  road.  He 
carried  a  wallet ;  had  a  walking-stick  in  his  hand,  and  we 
understood  him  to  say  he  was  going  to  Romsdalen.  He 
seemed  much  interested  with  our  tents,  and  accepted 
some  brandy  and  tobacco.  The  spot  where  our  tents 
were  pitched  was  near  a  sort  of  small  natural  terrace,  at 
the  summit  of  a  steep  slope  above  the  road,  backed  by  a 
mossy  bank,  shaded  by  brushwood,  and  skirting  the  dense 
foliage  of  the  dark  forest  of  pine  and  fir  rising  above  our 
camp.  We  had  tea  and  bread,  and  our  Australian  meat, 
which  was  excellent.  The  clouds  gathered  darkly  over 
the  mountains,  and  there  were  some  heavy  showers. 
More  visitors  came  in  succession;  some  had  brandy. 
Their  attention  seemed  divided  between  the  tents  and 


110  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

donkeys.  At  length  the  rain  probably  prevented  more 
from  coining. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  when  we  got  into  camp, 
Noah  came  and  said,  "I  think,  sir,  instead  of  buying 
tobacco,  I  had  much  better  have  put  the  money  by  to 
get  me  a  pair  of  stockings."  We  asked  how  much  he 
gave,  and  he  said  half  a  mark.  "  Then,  Noah,  give  up 
the  pipe  and  tobacco,  and  you  shall  have  the  half-mark." 
Our  gipsy  came  soon  after.  He  had  evidently  made  up 
his  mind. 

"Mr.  Smith,  you  don't  like  my  smoking,  sir;  here's 
the  tobacco  and  pipe.  I  don't  wish  you  to  say  I  didn't 
do  what  you  requir'ed." 

As  Noah  handed  over  the  pipe  and  tobacco,  one  would 
have  thought  he  had  given  up  some  dearly-prized  trea- 
sure. Although  we  gave  him  the  half-mark  with  pleasure, 
we  could  not  help  feeling  some  compunction;  still,  as 
"  shorengro  "  (gipsy  chief)  of  the  party,  we  were  bound 
to  see  the  camp  rules  obeyed,  and  Noah  knew  them 
before  he  started.  Pusillanimity  and  want  of  firmness 
would  have  destroyed  the  success  of  the  expedition. 

After  tea  we  sat  up  to  write  our  notes.  The  occur- 
rences and  events  of  each  day  must  be  written  whilst 
they  are  fresh  in  the  memory.  Nor  must  they  be  left  to 
remembrance,  or  the  clear  lettering  of  correctness  and 
truth  will  be  lost.  What  are  now  given  are  mere  tran- 
scripts of  notes  written  on  the  spot,  and  at  the  time. 
Whatever  be  their  worth,  rough  as  they  are,  it  is  hoped 
their  truth  will  give  them  some  value.  We  were  glad 
to  retire  to  rest.  It  rained  heavily  in  the  night.  Once 
or  twice  the  light  Siphonia  waterproof  was  blown  off. 
Noah  hud  to  get  up  in  the  night  to  put  it  on,  and  to  dig 


PEASANT  GIRLS'  SERENADE.  Ill 

a  trench  round  the  tents.  We  could  feel  the  moisture 
comiDg  in  from  the  bank  above.  It  was  wth  diflficulty 
we  kept  our  provisions  dry. 

Our  first  Sunday  morning  in  camp.  It  was  one  of  our 
camp  rules  never  to  travel  on  a  Sunday.  It  was  made  a 
(lav  of  rest  for  ourselves  and  the  animals.  We  looked 
forward  throughout  our  travels  to  our  Sunday  for  quietude 
and  repose.  The  morning  was  dull  and  wet.  We  break- 
fasted about  seven  o'clock.  The  frokost  (Nor.,  breakfast) 
consisted  of  fried  bacon,  bread,- and  tea.  The  materials 
for  a  soup  for  dinner  were  put  ready.  Whilst  it  was 
cooking,  a  German  gentleman,  accompanied  by  his 
skydskarl,  came  up  from  the  road.  He  inquired  if  we 
were  German.  Then  he  informed  us  that  there  was  an 
account  of  us  in  the  newspapers.  Having  looked  at  our 
tents,  we  sent  Zachariah  with  him  to  see  the  donkeys. 
The  German  gentleman  seemed  much  gratified,  and, 
shaking  hands  with  Zachariah,  left  our  camp.  Many 
carriages  passed  along  the  road  during  the  day.  After 
our  dinner  of  soup,  made  of  ham,  peas,  flour,  and  Liebig's 
essence  of  meat,  w^e  remained  in  our  tents.  Some  young 
peasant  men  and  women  came  and  sat  in  the  rain  outside 
looking  at  us.  We  gave  two  of  the  peasants  some  brandy 
and  tobacco.  Then  all  our  visitors  left,  except  four 
interesting  young  peasant  girls,  who  still  lingered.  One 
had  an  umbrella,  and  all  four  standing  in  the  rain  at  a 
short  distance  from  our  camp,  sang  for  us  a  Norwegian 
song  to  a  pretty  Norwegian  air.  They  had  pleasant 
voices.  We  listened  to  them  with  much  pleasure.  There 
was  so  mucb  sweetness  and  feeling  in  the  melody.  It 
was  a  serenade  of  four  Norwegian  peasant  girls.  We 
appreciated  their  kind  attention  to  wanderers  from  a  far 


l\ei 
tali 


It 

be 
eff 
the 


^ 


LOVELY  NATURE,  113 

to,  he  would  suddenly,  with  a  hop,  skip,  and  a  jump,  light 
in  his  tent,  as  if  he  had  tumbled  from  the  sky,  and  sitting 
bolt  upright,  making  a  hideous  face,  till  his  mouth  nearly 
stretched  from  ear  to  ear,  while  his  dark  eyes  sparkled 
with  wild  excitement,  he  would  sing  :— 

"  Dawdy  !  Dawdy  !  dit  a  kei, 
Rockerony  fake  your  boah." 

At  one  time  a  woman  brought  an  exceedingly  fat  child 
for  us  to  look  at,  and  she  wanted  Esmeralda  to  suckle  it, 
which  was  of  course  hastily  declined.  We  began  to  ask 
ourselves,  if  this  was  forest  seclusion.  Still,  our  visitors 
were  kind,  good-humoured  people,  and  some  drank  our 
brandy,  and  some  smoked  our  English  tobacco.  Had 
they  not  partaken  of  our  salt  ?  We,  as  Arabs  of  tent-life, 
gave  them  our  friendly  welcome.  After  our  tea,  at  five 
o'clock  we  had  a  pleasant  stroll.  Once  more  we  were 
with  Nature.  There  we  lingered,  till  the  scenes  round 
us,  in  their  varied  beauty,  seemed  graven  deep  in  our 
thoughts.     How  graphic  are  the  lines  of  Moore  : — 

"  The  turf  shall  he  my  fragrant  shnne, 
My  temple,  Lord !  that  arch  of  thine 
My  censer^B  hreath  the  mountain  airs, 
And  dlent  thoughts  my  only  prayers. 

"  My  choir  shaU  he  the  moonlight  waves, 
When  murm'ring  homeward  to  their  cayes, 
Or  when  the  stillness  of  the  sea, 
Even  more  of  music  hreathes  of  thee." 

How  appropriate,  were  the  words  of  the  great  poet  to 
our  feelings.  Returning  between  eight  and  nine  o'clock, 
we  found  Esmeralda  standing  by  the  tents.  We  went  in 
and  sat  down.  Another  party  of  visitors  approached. 
Now  and  then  they  halted,  as  they  looked  towards  our 


114  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

tents,  and  would  then  refer  to  a  paper.     They  stood 
occasionally  for   a  few  moments  in  earnest  discussion. 
We  were  much  puzzled  to  make  out  what  they  were 
doing,  as  we  sat  in  our  tent  looking  at  them.     One  of  the 
party,  a  tall,  fine-looking  man  in  plaid  trousers,  large 
beard,  and  cap,  advanced.     As  we  bowed,  he  handed  us 
a  Norwegian  newspaper,  and  pointed  to  a  paragraph, 
which  we  soon  found  related  to  ourselves.     They  all  took 
some  brandy;   and  when  we  ofiered  to  buy  the  news- 
paper,  they   most    kindly   presented    it  to   us.      Then 
Zacharia  took  them  to  see  the  donkeys.     When  they 
returned,  we  made  them  understand,  that  they  were  at 
the  camp  of  the  Englishman,  referred  to  in  the  paragraph. 
They  inspected  the  tents  and  pinthorns.     They  felt  the 
blanket  coverings,   and  also  the  waterproof  Siphonian 
cover.     Examined  our  camp  kettle;   and  we  explained 
to  them   the  mysteries   of  our   Russian  lamp.     There 
was    much    discussion    among    them   about  our  tents. 
They  stood  by  them  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.     Perhaps 
the  description  in  the  paragraph  was  not  quite  under- 
stood.   The  paragraph  ran  thus,  and  underneath  we  give 
an  EngUsh  translation : — 

EXTRACT  FROM  THE  DAGBLADET,  No.  142,  23rd  June,   1870. 

CHRISTIANIA. 

"en  original  ENGELSKMAND. 

"  Blandt  den  Maengde  af  fremmede  Turister  skrwer 
Mgbl.,  der  i  disse  Dage  opholder  seg  hei  i  By  en  for  herfra 
at  tiltraede  Reisen  om  i  Landet,  er  ogsaa  en  Engelsk- 
mand  Mr.  Smith,  der  er  saa  lykkeligat  have  opdaget  en 
ny  Specialitet  inden  Turistlwets  Enemoerker.  Han  reiser 
nemUg  ikke  hrerkeu  i  Kariol,  eller  Kano,  meu  tilfods  og 


NORWEGIAN  NEWSPAPER.  116 

forer  alligevel  med  sig  Mad,  Drikke,  Kloeder,  Sko,  Hus, 
Hjem  og  alle  andre  Livets  Velsignelser  fige  indtil  gode 
Naboer.  Han  ledsages  kort  at  fortoelle  af  3  i£fler,  paa 
Iwis  Ryg  der  loesses  allehaande  Livsforn  oden  heder 
iberegnet  Telle,  som  slaaes  op,  hvor  og  naar  ban  onsker 
at  raste,  for  atter  at  tuges  ned  igjen,  naar  ban  drager 
videre,  og  som  under  bans  Reise  belt  oz  boldent  maa 
ers  tatte  bam  almmdeligt  Husly.  Det  er  saaledes  et 
fiildstaendig  gjennemfort  Romadelir,  der  udgjor  Mr. 
Smith's  Specialitet ;  men  for  at  gjore  dette  rigtig  Kom- 
fort  abelt  bar  ban  taget  med  som  sin  Betjening  paa 
Reisen  et  Selskab  af  veritable  Romader,  nemlig  tro 
Tatere  (gypsies)  to  Brodre  og  en  Soster.  Det  skal  vere 
Mr.  Smitb's  tanke  at  anvende  3 — 4  Maaneder  paa  et 
gjennemstreife  vore  Hoi^eldsegne,  og  riraeligvis  vil  man- 
geu  af  vore  Turister  da  faa  Leileghed  til  at  se  deu  lille 
Kara  Vane,  der  udgjor  bans  Reisetroen." 

TRANSLATION    OF   THE   FOREGOING. 
"an   ORIGINAL   ENGLISHMAN. 

"  Among  tbe  numerous  foreign  tourists,  says  the 
Morgen  bladett  (Morning  Paper),  tbere  is  at  present  stay- 
ing at  Byen,  with  an  intention  of  proceeding  inland,  an 
Englisb  gentleman,  Mr.  Smitb,  who  bas  made  a  new  in- 
vention for  tbe  use  of  tourists.  He  neitber  travels  by 
carriage  or  boat,  but  on  foot,  and  nevertheless  carries 
with  him  food,  drink,  clothes,  shoes,  and  every  other 
necessary  of  life  in  a  small  compass.  It  consists  of  a 
folding  contrivance  on  three  donkeys,  in  which  the  articles 
are  packed,  and  is  carried  on  tbe  back,  forming  when 
spread  out  a  tent,  whenever  be  wishes  to  halt,  and  the 

I  2 


114  ^E^^  life  in  norwat. 

tents,  and  would  then  refer  to  a  paper, 
occasionally  for  a  few  moments  in  earnet 
We  were  much  puzzled  to  make  out  wha 
domg,  as  we  sat  in  our  tent  looking  at  them, 
party,  a  tall,  fine-looking  man  in  plaid  trc 
beard,  and  cap,  advanced.     As  we  bowed,  he 
a  Norwegian  newspaper,  and  pointed  to  a 
which  we  soon  found  related  to  ourselves.    Tl 
some  brandy;  and  when  we  offered  to  buy 
paper,  they  most    kindly  presented   it  to 
Zacharia  took  them  to  see  the  donkeys.    ^ 
returned,  we  made  them  understand,  that  the 
the  camp  of  the  Englishman,  referred  to  in  the  j 
They  inspected  the  tents  and  pinthoms.    Tht 
blanket  coverings,  and   also  the  waterproof  i 
cover.    Examined  our  camp  kettle;  and  we  t 
to  them  the  mysteries   of  our  Russian  lamp, 
was  much  discussion    among   them  about  on 
They  stood  by  them  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
the  description  in  the  paragraph  was  not  quite 
stood.    The  paragraph  ran  thus,  and  underneath  ^ 
an  English  translation : — 

EXTRACT  FBOM  THE  DAQBLADET,  No.  142,  23id  Jus> 

CHRISTIANIA. 

"en  original  ENGELSKMAND, 

"  Blandt  den  Maengde  af  fremmede  Turister  si 

Mgbl,  der  i  disse  Dage  opholder  seg  hei  i  Byen  for  ]• 

at  tiltraede  Reisen  om  i  Landet,  er  ogsaa  en  Eng 

mand  Mr.  Smith,  der  er  saa  IvlrtAJio-at  have  opdagt 

ny  Specialitet  inden  Turis tl^  ^r.    Hann 

nemlig  ikke  hrerkeu  i  KarioJ  u  tilfadfi 


-----  K 


-,  to 


:   :  — » 


the 
:ed 


CHAPTER  Xn. 

•  • 
'*  Many  times  he  would  go  into  the  forest  of  the  peeke,  and  set  np 
ther  his  tent,  with  great  provision  of  viteles,  and  would  remaine  tber 
▼ii  weeks  or  more  hunting  and  making  other  worthy  pastimes  unto  his 
company." — Huittbr's  S<nUh  Yorkshire, 

UNSUCCESSFUL  FISHINO — A  MILITARY  OFFICER — THE  DERNIER  RE8SORT — 
OUR  GIPSY  RECEPTION — INTERRUPTED  TOILETTE — PfiTE  GHAMPdTRE — 
DANCING  ON  THE  GREENSWARD — TINCTURE  OF  CEDAR — THE  DISAP- 
POINTMENT— THE    LOSNA    VAND — THE    KETTLE     PROP    LOST PEASANT 

CHILDREN — INTERESTING  DISCUSSIONS— WRITING  UNDER  DIFFICULTIES 
— THE  KINDLY  HEART. 

When  frokost  (Nor.,  breakfast)  was  over,  we  sent  Noah 
and  Zachariah  to  the  Logan,  with  a  fishing-rod  each,  and 
some  trout-flies.  Esmeralda  stayed  at  the  tents,  and  added 
to  the  remains  of  the  former  stock  of  soup,  some  rice, 
Liebeg*s  essence  of  meat,  pea  flour,  and  some  mushrooms, 
gathered  en  route.  She  prepared  some  excellent  soup 
for  middags-mad  (Nor.,  dinner).  Esmeralda  was  standing 
outside  the  tents,  when  a  traveller  from  Throndhjem  came 
up  with  his  Skydskarl  from  the  road  ;  he  spoke  to  her  in 
English,  but  she  did  not  appear  to  understand  him. 
When  we  came  out  of  the  tents,  the  stranger  bowed,  and 
said  it  was  a  pleasant  way  of  travelling.  He  asked  if 
we  were  Italians,  at  the  same  time  looking  at  Esmeralda. 
We  informed  him  the  others  were  Romanys.  He  wished 
to  know  if  we  had  our  wife  with  us,  and  we  informed  him 


MILITARY  OFFICER  119 

we  were  not  married  Then  our  visitor  asked  how  we 
managed  in  the  rain,  and  when  he  had  looked  round  our 
camp,  politely  took  off  his  hat,  and  left.  Noah  and 
Zachariah  returned  without  having  had  a  rise.  Leaving 
them  in  charge  of  the  camp,  Esmeralda  and  myself  went 
to  see  a  waterfall,  but,  missing  our  way  in  the  forest,  we 
returned  laden  with  ferns,  foxgloves,  and  lichens.  We 
found  at  our  camp  a  very  respectably  dressed  young 
woman,  accompanied  by  a  girl  with  scanty  white  petticoat, 
barelegs  and  feet.  Getting  out  our  dictionary,  we  told 
them  they  should  have  some  music,  if  they  came  at  seven 
that  evening.  They  mentioned  otta  klokken  (Nor.,  eight 
o'clock),  and  it  was  so  arranged.  Noah  and  Zachariah 
having  played  them  two  or  three  tunes,  our  visitors  left. 
The  soup  at  dinner  was  excellent,  and  with  some  bread 
and  butter,  made  a  good  meal.  The  weather  now  became 
very  fine ;  we  seated  ourselves  on  a  mossy  bank,  some 
short  distance  at  the  edge  of  the  tangled  thickets  of  the 
forest,  which  skirted  our  camp.  Gleams  of  sunshine 
enlivened  the  scene.  Esmeralda  was  busily  cleaning  our 
boots,  when  we  noticed  close  to  us,  a  tall,  gentlemanly, 
Norwegian  officer.  He  wore  a  military  cap,  and  had 
come  along  a  narrow  pathway  through  the  trees.  We 
had  not  heard  his  footsteps,  and  as  he  paused  for  a  moment, 
a  faint  smile  seemed  to  play  on  his  countenance.  We 
bowed,  and  asked  him  if  he  spoke  English,  but  finding 
he  was  not  able  to  do  so,  we  sent  Noah  to  show  him 
the  donkeys,  Noah  was  busily  levelling,  with  our  camp 
spade,  certain  inequalities  of  the  small  terrace  near  our 
camp,  so  that  our  visitors  might  have  level  turf  for  their 
dancing  in  the  evening.  When  the  officer  returned, 
he  appeared  to  wish  to   say  something  in  English;  a 


120  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

dictionary  was  handed  to  him,  but  that  failing,  Mr. 
Bennett's  "  Dialogue  Book "  was  given  as  a  dernier 
ressort  Whilst  he  was  in  search  of  words,  Esmeralda 
was  busy  brushing  our  clothes  ;  sometimes  he  was 
turning  over  the  pages,  and  sometimes  he  seemed  rather 
astonished  and  amused  at  Esmeralda's  style  of  brushing, 
especially  when  she  pulled  our  coat,  and  gave  us  a 
bang  with  the  brush  for  not  turning  round.  In  vain 
he  searched  the  "  Dialogue  Book,"  and  then  .he  shook 
his  head.  Esmeralda  completed  her  task,  and  declared 
we  looked  five  pounds  better.  We  then  ^showed  the 
officer  the  tents. 

It  was  with  much  regret,  we  felt  our  inability  to 
converse,  yet  it  is  astonishing  what  can  be  donje,  by  a  few 
words  and  signs.  His  carriage  was  in  the  road  below. 
The  day  had  become  pleasant  and  warm ;  Zachariah  and 
Esmeralda  seated  themselves  on  the  mossy  bank  by  the 
terrace,  not  far  from  our  tents.  Soon  their  wild  music 
might  be  heard  in  the  forest.  The  driver  and  a  boy 
belonging  to  the  officer's  carriage  came  up.  A  militia 
soldier  marching  along  the  road  in  a  light  suit  of  jean, 
with  his  knapsack  on  his  back,  was  called  up  by  his 
officer,  whom  he  saluted.  Our  audience  was  complete. 
The  officer  was  going  to  the  militia  encampment  we  had 
noticed  as  we  came  from  Lillehammer.  The  music 
seemed  to  please  him ;  he  laughed  at  Zachariah's  wild 
comicality.  When  they  had  finished,  with  an  exchange 
of  salutations,  he  wished  us  good-by,  and  left  Our 
visitors  were  now  gone.  Noah  and  Zachariah  washed 
themselves ;  and  we  had  our  tea,  with  potted  tongue,  and 
bread  and  cheese.  As  we  were  seated  by  our  camp-fire, 
a  tall  old  man,  looking  round  our  tents,  came  and  stood 


INTERRUPTED  TOILETTE,  121 

contemplating  us  at  our  tea.  He  looked  as  if  he  thought 
we  were  enjoying  a  life'  of  happiness.  Nor  was  he 
wrong.  He  viewed  us  with  a  pleased,  and  kindly  ex- 
pression, as  he  seemed  half  lost  in  contemplation.  We 
sent  for  the  flask  of  brandy,  and  he  drank  to  Gamle 
Norge  (Nor.,  Old  Norway),  and  then  left  to  see  the 
donkeys.  In  a  few  minutes  Esmeralda  cleaned  and  re- 
packed our  tea  things. 

Returning  to  our  tent  we  put  on  our  Napoleon  boots, 
and  made  some  additions  to  our  toilette ;  whilst  we  were 
so  engaged,  some  women  came  to  the  tents.  The 
curiosity  of  the  sex  was  exemplified,  for  they  were 
dying  to  look  behind  the  tent-partition  which  screened  us 
from  observation.  We  don't  know  what  they  expected 
to  see;  one  bolder  than  the  rest,  could  not  resist  the 
desire,  to  look  behind  the  scenes,  and  hastily  drew  back 
and  dropped  the  curtain,  when  we  said  rather  sharply, 
"Neilnei!" 

Esmeralda  shortly  afterwards  appeared  in  her  blue 
dress  and  silver  buttons.  Then  we  all  seated  ourselves 
on  a  mossy  bank,  on  the  side  of  the  terrace,  with  a 
charming  view  across  the  valley  of  the  Logan.  At 
eight  o'clock  the  music  commenced.  The  sun  shone 
beautifully,  and  the  mosquitoes  and  midges  bit  right  and 
left,  with  hungry  determination.  We  sat  in  line  on  the 
soft  mossy  turf  of  the  grassy  slope,  sheltered  by  foliage, 
Esmeralda  and  Noah  with  their  tambourines,  myself  with 
the  castanets,  and  Zachariah  with  his  violin.  We  had  not 
played  very  long,  when  a  man  passing  along  the  road 
below  heard  the  music,  and  ran  up.  Much  astonished  he 
seemed,  as  he  stood  at  a  short  distance  from  us,  on  the 
Bide  of  the  terrace,  and  gazed  at  each  by  turn.     When  a 


122  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

tune    ended    he    smiled    approvingly.      Some    peasant 
women  and  girls  came  up  after  we  had  played  a  short 
time.     It  was  a  curious  scene-     Our  tents  were  plea- 
santly pitched  on  an  open  patch  of  green  sward,  sur- 
rounded by  bordering  thickets,  near  the  sunny  bank,  and 
the  small  flat  terrace,  which  Noah  bad  levelled  in  the 
morning.     The  main  roq,d  was  immediately  below ;  and 
down  the  valley  rolled  the  wide  river  Logan,  with  a  pic- 
turesque island,  dividing  its  rapid  stream.     The  rising 
hills  and  rugged  ravines  on  the  other  side  the  valley,  all 
gave  a  singular,  and  romantic  beauty  to  the  lovely  view. 
Although  our  gipsies  played  with  much  spirit  until  nine 
o'clock,  none  of  the  peasants  would  dance.    At  nine 
o'clock   our  music   ceased,  and   we   all   retired   to   our 
tents,  with  the  intention  of  going  to  bed.    When  we  were 
going  into  our  tents,  a  peasant,  and  several  others  with 
him,  who  had  just  arrived,  asked  us  to  play  again.     We 
declined,  for  we  had  already  played  an  hour,  and  merely 
did  so  for  our  own  will  and  pleasure.     The  peasants 
appeared  very  anxious,  and  offered  us  a  three  or  four 
skilling  piece,  which  we  politely  refused.      At  length, 
observing  several  peasant  girls  were  very  much  disap- 
pointed, we  decided  to  play  once   more.     It  was  past 
nine  o'clock  when  we  again  took  up  our  position  on  the 
mossy  bank.     Noah  was  accepted  by  one  of  the  Nor- 
wegian girls  as  a  partner,  and  we  made  another  couple 
with  a  good-looking  young  peasant  *'pige"  (Nor.,  girl)- 
When  she  was  tired,  we  danced  with  Esmeralda.     Both 
partners  managed  the  schottische  famously  on  the  level 
turf.      So    we    danced,  and    the    peasant    girls,    until 
nearly  ten  o'clock.     The  terrace  was  rather  limited  in 
extent.     Once  we  nearly  whirled  ourself  and  Esmeralda 


TINCTURE  OF  CEDAR.  123 

oyer  the  slope,  and  into  the  road  below.     The  gipsies 
suffered  grievously  from  musketos  early  in  the  evening. 

"Ah!"  said  we  to  the  gipsies,  "that  is  soon  pre- 
vented." 

Producing  a  bottle  of  tincture  of  cedar,  which  a 
Canadian  Mend  had  heard  was  an  mfallible  remedy,  all 
our  gipsies'  faces,  including  our  own,  were  carefully 
painted  over  with  the  brown  liquid.  For  the  information 
of  our  readers,  we  can  only  say  it  was  a  decided  failure, 
and  after  several  trials,  in  which  the  tincture  only  seemed 
to  irritate  the  skin,  without  deterring  in  the  slightest 
degree,  the  rapacity  of  hundreds  of  devouring  insects, 
tincture  of  cedar  was  voted  a  miserable  delusion,  and  a 
provoking  sham. 

Soon  after  we  had  wished  our  visitors  **  god  afl;en,*' 
(Nor.,  good  evening)  and  had  retired  to  our  tents,  a 
carriage  pulled  up  in  the  road  below.  The  occupants 
came  up  and  walked  round  our  camp.  We  did  not  see 
them,  but  were  told  afterwards  by  our  gipsies,  that  one 
of  our  visitors,  was  the  young  man  who  had  assisted  us 
with  our  provision  case  at  Lillehammer. 

At  half-past  two  o'clock  the  next  morning,  Tuesday, 
the  twenty-eighth  of  June,  all  were  moving.  The  idea 
that  we  were  first  up  was  speedily  proved  incorrect. 
Directly  we  left;  our  tents,  a  Norwegian  tramp,  of  torn 
and  tattered  appearance,  came  and  gazed  at  our  camp  in 
mute  astonishment,  and  then  silently  departed. 

Esmeralda  was  soon  up.  Our  kettle  of  soup  was  put 
ready  to  boil  for  breakfast,  and  the  fire  was  lighted. 
Noah  took  charge  of  the  kettle  and  pepper.  The  soup 
was  boiled,  and  served  out  in  our  bowls,  as  we  sat  in  the 
rather  dull,  cloudy,  cold  morning  round  the  fire.     Never 


124  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

shall  we  forget  Zachariah's  look  of  epicurean  disappoint- 
ment, and  misery,  as  he  tasted  the  soup,  and  threw  down 
his  spoon. 

"Now  then,  Noah,  I  can't  eat  it!"  We  could  not 
help  laughing.  Then  it  was  tasted  by  ourselves. 
Esmeralda  tasted  it.  Noah  had  Uterally  deluged  it  with 
pepper.  The  soup  was  condemned.  Noah  took  our 
anything  but  complimentary  remarks  upon  his  cuisine, 
with  his  usual  good-temper,  and,  as  if  to  show  that  the 
soup  was  really  not  so  bad,  he  finished  our  shares  as  well 
as  his  own.  Slices  of  bread  and  butter  were  cut  for 
ourself,  Esmeralda,  and  Zachariah,  and  we  decided  that 
Noah  should  never  again  attempt  any  culinary  operations. 

Hastily  striking  camp,  all  our  things  were  packed  and 
loaded.  Our  party  left  the  camp  ground  at  half-past 
five  o'clock. 

On  the  right  of  the  road,  going  to  Holmen,  a  short 
distance  below  our  camp,  we  passed  the  mile-stone  which 
marked  two  and  a  half  Norsk  miles,  or  seventeen  and  a 
half  English  miles  from  Lillehammer. 

At  Holmen  bread  could  not  be  purchased,  but  we  were 
told  that  we  could  get  some  at  a  house  beyond,  where 
Esmeralda  afterwards  bought  eight  loaves  for  two  marks 
and  a  half.  Several  men  followed  us  along  the  road  to  see 
our  donkeys. 

Passing  a  small  sheet  of  water,  some  crows  on  the 
the  bank  were  so  tame  that  they  allowed  us  to  come 
close  to  them.  The  Norwegian  crow  has  some  white 
about  it,  but  in  size  it  is  much  the  same  as  the  English 
crow. 

As  we  reached  the  shores  of  the  Losna  Vand,  a  long 
narrow  lake,  the  rain  clouds  seemed  to  be  gathering  over 


LOSNA    VAND.  125 

some  very  picturesque  mountains  near  its  shores.*  Coming 
to  a  small  recess  of  ground,  by  a  stream  of  water  on  the  road 
side  near  the  lake,  a  halt  was  called — in  truth  we  were 
rather  hungry.  The  remembrance  of  the  hot  soup  had 
not  become  effaced  from  Zachariah's  memory.  When 
our  things  were  unpacked,  it  was  at  once  discovered,  that 
our  kettle  prop  had  been  left  at  our  last  camp.  We  were 
much  annoyed,  not  only  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of 
boiling  our  things,  but  with  regard  to  making  holes  in  the 
ground  for  our  tent  raniers.  As  a  substitute  for  our  lost 
kettle  prop,  two  Alpine  stocks  were  brought  into  use,  and 
some  twisted  wire  was  fastened  between  them,  to  suspend 
our  kettle  over  the  fire.  Whilst  we  were  engaged  in 
preparing  our  meal,  the  rain  storm  gathered  on  the  hills 
at  the  head  of  the  lake.  All  our  baggage  was  safely 
stowed  away  under  our  invaluable  siphonia  tent  cover. 
Esmeralda  was  also  sheltered  in  a  comfortable  place 
amongst  the  baggage.  As  her  brothers  and  ourselves 
were  pouring  out  the  tea,  it  began  to  rain  heavily.  Soon 
afterwards,  we  found  the  donkeys  had  strayed  out  of 
sight,  and  Noah  had  to  follow  them  at  least  half  a  mile, 
before  he  could  bring  them  back,  to  the  camp. 

A  woman  soon  made  her  appearance  and  begged. 
We  think  she  lived  in  a  house  on  the  road  side,  not  very 
far  from  where  we  were.  Four  skillings  seemed  to  please 
her  very  much.     Then  came  a  little  boy  dressed  in  only 

•  To  the  left  of  our  route,  near  Svatsum,  a  young  English  naval  gentle- 
man, travelling  in  Norway  in  1853,  was  so  pleased  with  the  scenery  of  the 
country,  that  he  purchased  a  smaU  farm,  and  resided  there  for  five  years, 
fishing  in  the  Robv  Vand  (Fox  Lake)  and  other  lakes,  and  exploring  the 
Qeldes  with  his  tent  and  gun.  To  this  incident  the  neighbourhood  of 
Svatsum  has  become  associated  with  the  author  of  a  small  but  interesting 
book,  published  i;i  1863,  entitled,  "  RecoUections  of  a  Five  Years'  Real, 
dencc  in  Norway." 


126  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

a  few  rags,  who  seated  himself  near  our  camp  as  we  were 
taking  our  breakfast.  The  rain  had  almost  ceased  for  a 
short  time.  The  boy  looked  so  piteous,  as  we  were 
demolishing,  with  considerable  appetite,  tea,  bread  and 
butter,  and  sardines,  that  we  could  not  help  giving  him 
some  bread  and  butter.  The  little  fellow  said  nothing, 
but  putting  out  his  hand,  he  clasped  ours  with  a  look  of 
intense  gratitude.  Then  came  three  small  girls,  and 
they  also  had  bread  and  butter.  The  rain  recommenced, 
but,  breakfast  being  finished,  Esmeralda  was  carefully 
covered  up.  Noah  and  Zachariah  immediately  disappeared 
underneath  some  part  of  the  waterproof  and  fell  asleep. 
We  retired  also,  with  our  head  just  out,  so  that  we  could 
observe  the  travellers  passing  along  the  road.  Several 
peasants  came  up,  and  stared  at  the  donkeys,  as  they  stood 
in  the  rain,  near  our  dark  mass  of  siphonian  waterproof, 
with  nothing  else  to  be  seen,  but  our  head.  They  asked 
a  number  of  questions  with  very  little  result,  after  which 
the  donkies  were  again  examined.  Their  mouths  were 
opened,  teeth  reckoned,  and  their  conformation  carefully 
noted.  Their  tails  were  handled.  Sometimes  one  of  the 
donkeys,  on  such  occasions,  would  move  his  hind  leg,  and 
great  was  the  rush  to  get  out  of  his  way.  We  were 
asked  their  ages.  The  visit  generally  wound  up  with  an 
earnest  discussion  amongst  themselves,  in  which  we  could 
distinguish  the  words  asen  (donkeys),  and  heste  (horses), 
often  repeated. 

•  Another  group  of  women  and  men  soon  came  to  the 
spot,  and,  as  we  rested  on  our  elbows  with  our  head,  out 
of  our  waterproof,  we  were  again  the  subject  of  farther 
interrogatory.  It  is  probable  they  did  not  elicit 
much,  though  our  vocabulary  improved  with  the  journey. 


WRITING    UNDER  DIFFICULTIES.  127 

A  peasant  drove  up  with  a  crippled  militia  man.  The 
driver  at  once  got  down  in  haste.  He  was  particularly 
curious  about  the  donkeys ;  in  fact  the  three  donkeys  were 
evidently  expected  to  be  seen  somewhere  on  the  route, 
and  they  had  become  the  subject  of  eager  anxiety. 

At  one  time,  we  almost  expected  to  see  the  lone  figure 
of  the  Birmingham  bagman,  in  the  driving  rain,  on  the 
lake  side,  hovering  near  our  donkeys,  but  he  never  came. 
Rain,  rain,  ever  rain.  We  tried  to  write  our  notes,  but 
our  pencil  formed  all  kinds  of  arabesque  lines  in  zigzag 
pattern,  which  still  remain  in  our  note-book,  and  we  fell 
asleep.  The  fallmg  book  awoke  us  to  consciousness,  and 
the  necessity  for  action.  We  gave  Esmeralda  some 
quinine  and  water,  and  took  some  ourselves.  Taking 
advantage  of  a  lull  in  the  rain-storm,  the  order  was  given 
to  pack  up,  and  we  were  soon  en  route. 

The  Losna  Vand  is  a  picturesque  lake,  but  its  beauty 
would  have  been  more  appreciated  on  a  fine  day.  Our 
party  travelled  on,  till  we  crossed  a  bridge  over  a  stream, 
at  the  foot  of  a  vrild  gorge.  At  the  house  near,  we  obtained 
two  loaves  of  rye  brod,  and  half  a  pound  of  butter  for  9e?. 
The  rain  poured  down  heavily.  We  took  shelter  firom 
the  driving  rain  and  wind,  for  a  short  time,  to  the  leeward 
of  a  small  log  hut,  on  the  shore  of  the  lake  by  the  road- 
side, whilst  the  donkeys  stood  under  the  wall  on  the  other 
side  the  road.  The  gipsies  were  as  lively  as  usual, 
though  they  were  wet  through,  and  had  no  change.  We 
had  our  light  siphonia  waterproof  on,  and  Esmeralda  her 
long  Alpine  cloak.  The  gipsies  sang,  whilst  Zachariah 
tumbled,  and  danced,  and  laughed,  and  pulled  all  kinds  of 
dreadful  faces.  Then  Noah  found  a  curious  round  stone 
of  quartz,  but  it  was  too  heavy  to  carry.    Some  women 


128  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

came  and  looked  at  us  with  curious  interest.  We  did 
not  stay  long.  Notwithstanding  the  wind  and  rain,  we 
must  continue  our  journey,  till  we  come  to  some  spot 
where  we  can  camp.  When  we  had  passed  a  short 
distance  along  the  road,  an  interesting  child,  ^^lio  tad 
come  down  from  a  log  cottage  above,  ofiFered  us  a  skil- 
ling.  The  little  girl  and  her  parents  had  evidently  com- 
miserated our  forlorn  condition  as  nomad  wanderers,  and 
were  anxious  to  give  their  unsolicited  assistance.  It  will 
not  be  forgQtten  in  their  account  with  the  next  ^world. 
We  were  obliged  to  refuse,  and,  shaking  the  little  girl  by 
the  hand,  bade  her  farewell.  May  she  have  long  happi- 
ness in  life,  as  her  kind  heart  deserves. 


CHAPTEB  Xm. 

Twist  ye,  twine  ye  !  even  so, 
Mingle  ahades  of  joy  and  woe, 
Hope  and  fear  and  peace  and  strife, 
In  the  thread  of  human  life. 

Song  of  Meg  MerrUia.    Sia  Waltir  Soon. 

WEI   TRAVBIXrSa— VODVANCI — OUR   BCS8IAN    LAHF— SWEDISH    VISITORS — 
AUu     WBI*I* — MY    HOBBINBNGREE— THE     CHILD    OF    NATURE — GUITAR 

BONOS TSE  VILLAGE  BEAU — MERLES  GONE— THE  MUSKETOS'  VICTORY 

ISOnB       KAIN— SCOTCH     TRAVELLER — ^TIMBER    FLOATERS— GIPSIES — 

£NRA.GE:I>      englishman — the     frightened     SKYDSKARL  —  GIPSIES* 
EHDTJBANCB— THE  LI8TABI  COMMOTION — U8TAD  SCENERY. 

OuB  donkeys  were  pressed  onwards,  and  passed  some 
carts  laden  with  merchandise.  Anxiously  our  gipsies 
looked  out  for  a  camping  ground.  The  waters  of  the 
lake,  dashed  in  waves  on  the  stony  shore.  The  wind  and 
rain  met  us  in  the  teeth.  Misty  clouds  gathered  on  the 
summit  of  the.  moimtains  opposite,  as  we  travelled  along 
at  a  quick  pace.  The  packs  on  our  donkeys,  were  care- 
fully covered  with  our  waterproofs.  In  vain  we  looked 
at  every  point  for  a  camping  ground.  At  one  log  cottage 
on  the  hiU  above  the  road,  a  woman  with  a  yellow  hand- 
kerchief over  her  head,  rushed  out,  and  ran  down  towards 
the  road.  Then  a  boy  suddenly  appeared  on  the  other 
side  of  the  house,  and  throwing  up  his  arms  when  he  saw 
us,  they   revolved  like  the  sails  of  a  windmill,  as  he 


120  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

struggled  with  quickened  pace  after  the  woman.  Both 
ran  towards  an  eminence  of  ground  at  some  distance 
below  the  house  near  the  road.  "  I  hope  they  will  get 
safe  down,"  remarked  we  to  our  gipsies.  Sometimes  the 
boy  gained  upon  the  woman.  The  race  was  exciting. 
Speculations  were  hazarded  as  to  which  would  get  in 
first.  The  woman  might  fall,  but  she  did  not,  and  won 
the  race.  Both  stood  in  breathless  contemplation  as  we 
passed.  At  last  we  reached  Vodvang,  splashed,  wet, 
.  and  weary. 

There  were  not  many  houses  at  Vodvang.  People 
were  looking  out  of  their  windows,  and  several  men  had 
collected  on  the  balcony  of  a  large  house,  probably  the 
gjoGstgiver-gaard,  to  see  us  as  we  passed.  The  church 
was  a  quaint  wooden  structure  painted  red.  The  monu- 
mental records  in  the  graveyard  round  it,  were  few  in 
number — small  wooden  crosses,  generally  of  similar  pat- 
tern. Two  men  followed  us  along  the  road.  Noah  was 
sent  up  a  wild-looking  pathway  to  the  top  of  a  wooded 
hill,  but  found  no  camping  ground.  Then  we  inquired 
from  the  two  men,  who  pointed  several  times  to  a  thick 
fir  wood  a  short  distance  beyond.  We  gave  them  twelve 
skillings,  which  they  seemed  very  reluctant  to  take,  and 
wished  to  return,  but  we  said  it  was  drike  penge,  and 
left  them.  Proceeding  as  fast  as  our  donkeys  could 
travel,  for  it  was  now  past  eight  o'clock,  we  at  length 
came  to  a  private  road,  leading,  through  a  gate,  to  the 
wood.  There  was  no  time  to  hesitate.  We  must  go 
somewhere.  Zachariah  swung  open  the  gate,  and  our 
wayworn  looking  party,  were  soon  in  a  large,  and  pic- 
turesque forest  glade.  The  track  apparently  led  to  some 
house.     Almost  immediately,  we  unloaded  our  baggage, 


VODVANQ.  131 

and  commenced  pitching  our  tents,  in  a  small  guUey 
below  the  forest  track. 

The  tent  rods  were  scarcely  in  the  ground,  when  up 
came  three  men,  and  two  boys.  The  brandy  flask  was 
brought  out  in  the  heavy  rain,  and  brandy  poured  out  for 
the  three  men.  They  seemed  pleased  that  we  were  going 
to  camp  there,  and  showed  us  a  better  place  in  the  wood, 
for  the  donkeys  to  graze,  than  where  Zachariah  had 
tethered  them.  It  was  raining  fast  Noah  and  Zachariah 
were  wet  through.  Esmeralda  not  very  dry ;  and  our 
own  boots  and  legs  very  wet.  Our  gipsies  were  not  easily 
dispirited.  We  could  not  have  selected  better  people  for 
oiir  campaign;  accustomed  to  all  weathers  from  their 
infancy,  they  met  with  ourselves  cheerfully,  all  difficulties. 
Oar  tents  were  soon  pitched,  the  siphonia  waterproof 
cover  fastened,  and  our  things  stowed  away.  Then  the 
fire  must  be  lighted  in  the  rain.  Whilst  we  prepared  the 
Bn^ian  lamp,  Noah  gathered  sticks.  Only  damp  ones 
could  be  got.  A  crowd  of  peasants  had  come  to  our 
camp,  and  watched  with  curious  interest  our  Russian 
lamp.  They  looked  on  with  much  astonishment,  espe- 
cially when  the  Russian  lamp,  underneath  the  sticks,  gave 
forth  its  brilliant  stream  of  flame.  At  the  first  trial  the 
lamp  ignited  the  sticks,  but  the  fire  was  soon  extinguished 
by  the  falling  rain. 

A  boy  kindly  brought  ns  some  dry  wood,  and  notwith- 
standing the  rain,  our'  lamp  succeeded  upon  the  second 
trial,  and  our  kettle  was  soon  boiling  for  tea. 

Just  as  we  had  made  the  tea,  Noah  called  out  in 
Romany,  that  a  boro  rye  (gip.,  great  gentleman)  was  a 
vellin  (gip.,  coming).  The  new  visitor  was  a  young  gen- 
tleman wearing  spectacles.    He  said  he  was  not  a  native 

K  2 


133  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

« 

of  Norway,  but  from  Sweden.  He  was  staying  at  a  large 
house  on  the  side  of  the  wood  above  the  road,  and  had 
seen  our  party  come  up  m  the  rain  from  the  main  route. 
Two  ladies  who  were  travelling  with  him  were  in  the 
forest  track  near  our  tents.  Though  he  did  not  speak 
French,  he  informed  us  that  one  of  the  ladies  was  well 
acquainted  with  the  language.  The  ladies  then  came  to 
our  camp.  The  rain  had  partly  ceased.  One  of  the 
ladies,  yet  young  and  good-looking,  possessed  an  ease 
and  dignity  of  manner  we  have  seldom  met  with.  She 
asked  permission,  in  French,  to  see  our  tents.  How 
usefiil  we  always  find  the  French  language  as  a  medium 
of  communication  in  our  wandermgs  over  the  world. 
The  tents  were  examined.  Our  gipsies  were  described 
as  gitanos,  who  always  dwelt  in  tents  and  were  faithful 
to  us.  The  young  lady,  her  companion,  who  seemed 
amused  during  the  visit,  was  also  much  interested  in  our 
wild,  wandering  life.  At  length,  after  a  pleasant  con- 
versation, they  all  three  left  our  camp.  Then  we  had 
our  tea.  The  peasants  did  not  come  during  the  meal, 
lest  they  might  disturb  us.  When  a  number  of  them 
came  afterwards,  Zachariah  played  his  violin,  and  Noah 
and  Esmeralda  their  tambourines.  Great  curiosity  w^as 
manifested,  whilst  Zachariah,  all  life  and  spirit,  sitting  in 
his  damp  clothes,  on  the  wet  grass  by  the  fire,  was  ever 
pulling  queer  faces,  now  and  then  saying,  "  Dit  a  kei, 
look  at  that  Bongy  mouee,  ha,  ha " ;  and  again  they 
played  some  lively  and  spirited  tune.  We  lounged  in  a 
corner  of  our  tent.  The  Swedish  gentleman  came  again. 
For  some  time  he  sat  with  Noah  by  the  camp  fire,  asking 
occasional  questions  in  broken  English.  He  was  lively 
and  pleasant,  and  much  fun  seemed  going  on.     Noah 


SWEDISH  nSITOBS,.  133 

gave  him  some  very  original  answers.  The  peasants 
seemed  anxious  to  see  us  all  in  bed,  but  at  last  dispersed, 
and  we  fell  asleep. 

After  a  sound  and  refreshing  night's  rest  we  were  up 
at  7  o'clock ;  the  morning  was  fine,  and  we  could  now 
appreciate  the  beauties  of  the  woodland  scene.  The 
forest  extended  over  the  rocky  hills,  which  bounded  the 
valley.  Esmeralda  bustled  about  to  prepare  our  break- 
fast; no  one  was  the  worse  for  the  toil  and  fatigue  of 
yesterday.  Some  peasants  came,  and  were  told  we  should 
give  them  some  music  at  Otta  Klokken  (Nor.,  8  o'clock). 
Xoah  and  Zachariah  were  furnished  with  fishing  tackle, 
and  sent  off  fishing.*     The  Swedish  gentleman  and  the 

*  The  lake  fishing  in  the  JQelds  beyond  Syatsnm  is  said  to  be  very  good. 
Oret  (Nor.,  trout)  Bometimes  weigh  10  lbs.  The  Rgdv  Vand  is  associated 
vith  a  fishing  adrentnre,  an  account  of  which  we  have  never  met  with  but 
in  '^  Recollections  of  a  Five  Years'  Residence  in  Norway,"  by  Henry  T. 
Xewton  Chesshyre,  who  gives  the  narrative  in  extenso.  The  circumstances 
arc,  briefly,  as  foUows  : — On  the  16th  of  August,  1715,  two  brothers,  who 
▼ere  students,  on  a  fishing  excursion,  landed  from  their  boat  upon  an  island 
of  barren  rock,  fifteen  yards  wide  by  twenty  yards  long,  in  the  Rcev  Vand. 
^^^Mlst  there,  a  strong  gust  of  wind,  suddenly  drifted  the  boat,  to  the  shore 
of  the  lake.  Neither  of  the  brothers  could  swim.  Lightly  clad,  they 
lemained  nine  days,  in  sight  of  their  fishing  boat,  and  faithful  dog,  who 
^  continued  watching  their  things,  and  occasionally  appeared  on  the 
gnnwaleof  the  boat,  and  whined  piteously.  They  had  put  up  a  rude 
hovel  of  loose  stones,  which  afforded  them  little  shelter  in  an  exposed 
situation  on  a  lake  3,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  After  the  ninth 
<isy,  they  could  not  see  their  dog,  and  supposed  he  had  died  of  grief  and 
starvation.  The  dog,  it  appeared  afterwards,  had  left,  and,  finding  his  way 
Home,  by  constant  howling  and  importunity,  gave  the  idea  that  some  mis- 
fortune had  happened.  On  the  night  of  the  twelfth  day,  the  two  brother 
^braced  each  other  for  the  last  time,  as  they  believed,  and  awaited  death. 
Their  only  sustenance  had  been  about  an  ounce  of  wild  sorrel  each  day. 
Suddenly,  they  heard  the  tramp  of  horses  and  the  sound  of  voices  on  the 
«lge  of  the  lake.  One  brother  had  just  strength  enough  to  make  himself 
Heard,  and  they  were  rescued.  The  two  students,  after  some  weeks'  illness, 
recovered ;  but  their  faithful  dog,  Sikkert,  died  from  the  cflects  of  his  long 
lasting,  and  found  a  resting-place  in  the  students*  gaulen. 


134  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

two  ladies,  we  observed  early  in  the  morning,  passing 
along  a  track  through  the  wood  near  our  camp.  We  both 
saluted.  They  were  making  an  excursion,  partly  on  foot, 
through  Norway.  As  they  crossed  the  river,  they  met 
Zachariah,  and  asked  him  if  he  always  slept  out  in  tents, 
and  how  many  they  were  in  family.  The  morning  was 
devoted  by  Esmeralda  and  ourself  to  our  camp  arrange- 
ments ;  she  was  becoming  an  excellent  housekeeper. 
What  an  impulsive  dark-eyed  girl !  notwithstanding  her 
odd  sayings,  and  at  times  roughly  turned  phrases,  one 
could  not  but  admire  the  rude  energy,  and  exercise  of 
will  she  possessed.  Noah  and  Zachariah  returned. 
Mid-day  meal  consisted  of  broiled  ham,  tea,  and  bread  and 
cheese.  Two  men  came,  and  also  the  woman  with  bare 
legs,  who  had  visited  our  last  camp ;  they  took  much 
interest  in  our  Australian  method  of  making  tea.*  Some 
children  who  came  had  bread  and  butter ;  one  man  had 
tobacco,  and  as  they  sat  near,  our  musical  box  seemed  to 
give  them  much  pleasure.  The  two  men  suggested  a 
better  spot  in  the  wood  for  the  donkeys  to  feed,  and  they 
were  taken  there.  Esmeralda  and  ourself  left  at  3 
o'clock,  and  ascending  a  steep  hill  through  the  forest, 
reached  some  broken  rocks,  where  we  had  a  delightful 
view.  After  we  had  seated  ourselves,  we  wrote  our 
notes,  and  Esmeralda,  who  sat  at  our  side,  conversed 
occasionally.  Who  could  feel  other  than  regret,  at  so 
much  want  of  culture,  and  so  much  wild  sterility  of  mind, 
yet  if  she  had  undergone  the  modern  methods  of  training, 

*  The  Australian  bushman,  when  the  water  boils,  takes  the  can  off  the 
fire,  and,  lifting  the  lid,  puts  in  the  tea  on  the  boiling  water.  The  lid  is 
then  replaced,  the  can  is  left  to  stand  for  a  few  minutes  by  the  fire,  and 
the  tea  is  ready  for  use.  The  tea  made  in  this  way  is  very  good,  and  a 
teapot  is  dispensed  with. 


THE  CHILD  OF  NATURE,  135 

she  would  no  longer  have  been  the  wild  flower  of 
nomadic  life  ;  she  would  not  have  been  my  companion  in 
the  wild  forest,  the  valley,  and  lonely  glen.  There  was 
much  that  was  impulsive,  and  original,  much  that  was 
impassioned,  and  sensitive  in  her  powers  of  appreciation. 
It  was  astonishing,  with  all  her  disadvantages,  she  was 
what  she  was.  As  the  brilliant  sunshine  of  a  Norwegian 
evening,  gilded  the  pine  forests,  and  distant  fjelds,  the  in- 
describable feeling  of  happy  freedom,  cast  its  bright  rays 
upon  our  hearts.  Lingering  for  a  moment,  as  we  shut 
our  note  book  we  quitted  a  scene  we  may  never  view 
again,  and  returned  through  broken  forest  glades,  to  our 
camp,  ready  for  tea  at  6  o'clock.  When  we  reached  our 
camp,  no  one  was  there.  Noah  came  in  soon  after,  having 
been  in  quest  of  eggs.  When  our  tea,  and  bread  and 
butter  was  consumed,  Zachariah  returned  from  a  boating 
expedition ;  presently  the  peasants  came,  and  asked  when 
the  music  would  begin.  Taking  out  our  watch  we  told 
them  it  was  five  minutes  to  8,  and  we  should  begin  at  8 
o'clock.  We  sat  in  our  tents,  and  opened  our  concert,  first 
with  our  gipsy  song  and  guitar  accompaniments,  and  then 
with  the  *'  Mocking  Bird."  The  tents  were  decorated 
with  a  picture  of  Alpine  scenes.  One  or  two  tunes  were 
played  by  all  our  gipsy  party,  but  the  peasants  crowded 
round  our  tents  until  they  nearly  brought  them  down. 
Finding  they  wished  to  dance,  we  took  some  rugs,  and 
went  to  the  side  of  the  flat  roadway  through  the  forest. 

The  forest  scene  pleased  us;  the  evenmg  was  very 
fine.  Zachariah  never  tired  as  he  played  his  violin; 
sometimes  we  joined  with  castanets,  sometimes  with 
guitar,  and  occasionally  with  tambourine,  relieving  each 
other  by  turns. 


136  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

Noah  and  Esmeralda  waltzed  together,  and  the  couples 
who  danced  increased.  The  young  men  who  danced 
were  not  many  ;  the  beau  of  the  village,  (and  we  always 
had  one  at  all  our  peasant  re-unions)  was  very  active. 
We  shall  never  forget,  his  good-tempered  chubby  face, 
and  country  bumpkin  appearance,  as  he  spun  round  in 
large  low  shoes,  and  worsted  stockings,  voluminous 
trowsers,  and  short  jacket,  which  did  not  reach  below  his 
waist.  The  proportions  of  his  Dutch  build,  were  shown 
to  advantage.  It  must  have  been  warm  work,  as  lie 
puffed  in  his  thick  cloth  snuff-coloured  suit.  If  we  looked 
through  a  powerful  microscope  at  the  fat  boy  in  ''  Pick- 
wick "  we  should  see  our  friend  exactly  represented.  He 
was  Wackford  Squeers's  sample  schoolboy  on  a  large  scale. 
We  can  see  him  now  in  the  open  track  of  the  forest  at 
closing  eve,  with  that  stout  young  peasant  girl  of  the 
Rubens  style  of  beauty,  twMing  in  an  agony  of  exertion 
as  Noah  executed  a  roulade  on  the  tambourine ;  we  liked 
to  see  him,  and  his  dancing  was  no  doubt  the  envy  of 
those  peasants,  who  would  have  done  likewise,  if  they 
could. 

At  half-past  9  our  music  ceased ;  several  peasants  pressed 
us  to  continue ;  the  beau  of  the  village  even  went  so 
far  as  to  offer  us  four  skiUings — he  was,  no  doubt,-  a  rich 
landed  proprietor — of  course  we  politely  refused  with 
mange  tak  (Nor.,  many  thanks).  Our  heart  at  once  re- 
lented— ^we  have  danced  ourselves.  The  beau  of  the 
village,  was  again  in  his  element,  as  a  whale  is  at  sea. 
They  had  got  into  step;  we  had  found  out  the  tunes 
they  hked.  At  10  o'clock  our  music  again  ceased. 
Wishing  them  good-night,  we  retired.  Several  peasants 
came  to  see  the  tents,  one  asked  for  more  music,  but 


MERLES  GONE.  137 

finding  we  did  not  respond,  the  last  group  took  off  their 
hats,  and  left. 

The  peasants  had  not  long  departed^  when  down  came 
Noah  in  haste  to  our  camp  :  "  The  merles  (donkeys)  are 
gone,  sir,"  said  the  gipsy.  Noah  could  see  how  it  was. 
The  ropes  were  left,  and  the  men  who  had  told  us  that  it 
was  a  better  place  for  grass,  had  only  done  so  to  steal 
them.  We  could  not  bring  ourselves  to  suspect  our 
friends,  the  Norwegian  peasants,  whom  we  had  just  been 
entertaining  as  our  visitors,  and  who  were  always  so  kind, 
and  friendly  with  us. 

We  immediately  went  with  Esmeralda  in  search  of  our 
missing  donkeys^  Taking  a  track  through  the  forest, 
we  met  some  peasant  children,  to  whom,  with  some  difiS- 
culty,  we  explained  that  the  donkeys  were  gone.  They 
seemed  to  divine  our  thoughts,  "  Nei,  nei,"  said  one  little 
girl,  pointing'  to  a  particular  part  of  the  wood,  and  as  she 
was  coming  with  us,  a  shout  from  Noah,  and  Zacharlah, 
informed  us  they  were  safe.  The  peasants  had  kindly 
moved  them  to  a  better  spot  for  grass.  When  the 
gipsies  had  tethered  one  of  the  donkeys,  which  they 
usually  did,  they  returned  to  the  tents.  Noah  said  some 
of  the  peasants  were  still  gazing  at  our  merles. 
The  thermometer  had  been  74''  during  the  day. 

Sleep,  who  could  sleep?  Myriads  of  musketos  had 
invaded  our  tents.  We  were  all  dreadfully  bitten. 
Sleeping  in  a  rug  bag,  our  face  only  suffered.  Our 
forehead  was  one  mass  of  small  swellings.  We  were  all 
up  at  2  o'clock  in  the  morning.  In  the  tent  or  out  of 
the  tent  it  was  all  the  same.  . 

Grievous  were  the  complaints  as  we  ate  our  breakfast. 

Wildly  Zachariah  flourished  his  Norwegian  knife,  as  the 


138  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

enemies  of  his  comfort  attacked  him  on  every  Bide.  In 
vain  he  vowed  vengeance  against  the  "skeatos/'  We 
were  determined  not  to  endure  the  persecutions  of  our 
numerous  tormentors  any  longer.  The  morning  was 
cloudy,  with  drizzling  rain.  Striking  our  tents,  we 
loaded  our  donkeys,  and  a  little  before  6  o'clock  left 
the  forest,  and  Losnoes  en  route  for  Listad.  Near  a 
beautifiil  lake,  we  passed  two  hamlets,  at  each  of 
which  our  cavalcade  occasioned  great  excitement.  New 
and  varied  scenes  met  us  at  each  turn,  as  we  now  left 
far  behind  us  the  town  of  Lillehammer,  and  the 
picturesque  shores  of  the  Mjosen  Vand.  It  was 
astonishing  the  interest  our  donkeys  occasioned.  Here 
and  there  as  we  passed  along,  people  rushed  from  their 
various  pursuits,  to  get  a  glimpse  of  our  party.  One 
woman  ran  after  us,  and  eagerly  asked  if  the  donkeys 
eat  grass,  at  the  same  time  plucking  some  from  the  road 
side,  that  we  might  better  understand  her  question.  At 
one  place,  we  purchased  four  loaves  of  bread,  and  a  pound 
of  butter  for  Is.  Sd.  Esmeralda  at  the  same  time  tried 
to  buy  a  stardy  (gip.  for  hat)  to  replace  those  lost,  but 
could  not  get  one.  At  length  we  reached  a  large  wet 
marshy  valley,  and  met  some  men  with  long  poles  tipped 
with  iron  hooks.  Soon  afterwards  a  gentleman  driving  a 
carriole  overtook  us,  and  asked  Noah  if  we  were  Italians. 
Finding  he  spoke  English,  we  went  up  to  him,  and  he 
told  us  he  was  from  Scotland.  Telling  him  we  were 
travelling  d  Fatse  with  our  tents  and  baggage,  the 
novelty  of  the  idea  seemed  to  delight  him,  and  bowing, 
he  continued  his  journey.  The  end  of  the  marshy 
valley,  through  which  the  Logan  still  held  its  course, 
was  at  length  reached.     On  the  side  of  a  large  projecting 


TIMBER  FLOATERS, 


masa  of  rock,  on  the  road  side,  near  a  stream  of  water,  we 
fonnd  a  large  open  space  of  ground,  strewn  with  loose 
rocks.  Part  of  the  baggage  was  taken  off  the  donkeys, 
who  foraged  about  ia  rocks  for  scanty  herbage.    Light- 


ing a  fire,  we  had  tea,  bread,  sardines,  and  Australian 
meat.  The  men  with  the  poles  again  made  their  appear- 
ance with  increased  number.  They  drew  up  in  line,  and 
.having  grounded  their  poles,  stood  at  ease.     First  they 


140  TEJ{T  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

stared  at  ourselves  and  gipsies,  as  we  rested  near  our 
baggage,  and  then  at  our  donkeys.  There  were  nine  of 
them,  of  all  sizes,  and  miscellaneous  costumes.  They 
were  timber  floaters.  Their  long  poles  were  used  to 
push  the  logs  of  timber  adrift,  when  they  stuck  fast  on 
the  sides  of  the  river.  Quantities  of  timber  cut  down  in 
the  forests,  and  marked,  finds  transit  in  this  way  to  the 
sea.  As  we  were  writing  our  notes,  we  also  made  a 
rough  sketch  of  the  men.  A  boy  soon  afterwards  came, 
and  said  something  in  Norwegian  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile,  which  we  at  last  understood  to  mean  a  convenient 
camping  ground  at  that  distance  beyond  us.  Several 
other  people  came,  and  stood  in  the  road,  gazing  at 
the  donkeys,  as  they  wandered  about  the  rocks. 

The  sun  was  now  brilliant ;  the  scene  was  particularly 
beautiful.    Our  gipsies  after  lunch  fell  into  a  sound  sleep. 

We  had  halted  about  10  o'clock,  and  we  left  at  4 
o'clock.  Noah  was  quite  unwell,  and  all  suffered,  more 
or  less,  from  mosquito  bites  of  the  previous  night.  As 
we  looked  back,  we  could  not  help  pausing  some  few 
mmutes,  to  admire  the  picturesque  outUne  of  the  moun- 
tains. We  had  not  been  long  en  route  when  three  Eng- 
lishmen in  carrioles,  came  suddenly  round  a  turn  in  the 
road.  We  heard  one  exclaim,  "  Gipsies  !  "  as  they  over- 
took us,  and  drove  by.  We  noticed  the  first  was  a 
bronzed,  military,  good-looking  man.  The  driver  of  the 
second  carriole,  who  was  an  excellent  specimen  of  the 
Enghsh  gentleman,  said  something,  and  bowed,  and  they 
were  rapidly  followed  by  a  younger  gentleman,  and  soon 
out  of  sight.  Two  or  three  travellers  with  carrioles  met 
us  afterwards,  and  looked  at  us  with  much  curiosity  as 
they  passed.     The  evening  was  fine  and  enjoyable ;  the 


ENRAGED  ENGLISHMAN.  141 

country  on  either  side,  was  well  wooded  and  mountainous. 
The  river  Logan  added  much  to  the  picturesque  beauty 
of  the  scene.  Suddenly  a  carriole  appeared  behind  us. 
driven  by  one  who  was  evidently  bent  on  salmon  fishing, 
He  wore  a  mackintosh,  and  had  a  south-wester  over  his 
head.  When  any  carriages  appeai-ed  my  gipsies  im- 
mediately got  our  donkeys  in  line  along  the  side  of  the 
road.  Noah  at  the  head  of  the  first,  Zachariah  the 
second,  and  Esmeralda  led  the  third,  so  tliat  they 
were  all  kept  well  out  of  the  way.  The  traveller's 
Norwegian  pony  seemed  a  little  shy  in  passing  us ;  but 
the  traveller  was  driving  quietly  by,  as  the  donkeys  were 
halted,  when  down  jumped  the  Skydskarl,  and  rushed  to 
the  pony's  head,  which  was  suddenly  checked  into  the 
road  fence. 

"What  the  devil  are  you  doing,  boy!"  shouted  the 
driver,  whose  nationality  was  unmistakable. 

Esmeralda  went  to  the  pony's  head.  We  could  hardly 
help  laughing. 

"  Let  go  his  head,"  shouted  our  enraged  countryman  at 
the  boy.  Poor  fellow,  he  was  too  bewildered,  and  prob- 
ably did  not  understand  English.  With  redoubled  energy 
as  he  stared  at  the  donkeys,  he  kept  pulling  the  pony's 
head  against  the  fence,  whilst  Esmeralda  was  puUing  the 
contrary  way.  In  vain  the  traveller  urged  the  pony. 
Wildly  the  Skydskarl  held  its  head  down. 

"Get  behind,  boy,"  shouted  the  traveller,  "you're 
pulling  back.     He's  quiet  enough — ^let  gt),  boy ! ! " 

At  last  the  Skydskarl  retreated  in  confiision  to  the 
back  of  the  carriole,  half  crying.  Tlie  traveller  was  soon 
out  of  his  difficulty,  and  rapidly  disappeared  along  the 
road,  apparently  intent  on  his  fishing  expedition.     Occa- 


142  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

Bionally  we  came  to  a  rural  cottage,  at  one  of  which  we 
noticed  a  lamb,  and  a  goat.  Zachariah  played  a  pretty 
slow  waltz,  as  we  lounged  along  the  road,  all  rather 
sleepy  and  tired.  There  was  something  of  pure  romance, 
and  feelmg,  as  we  stood  apart  in  spirit,  and  contemplated 
our  calvacade,  pushing  their  way  to  some  unknown  camp- 
ing ground.  There  was  our  fine,  strong,  light-coloured 
donkey,  with  its  Jerusalem  cross,  carrying  its  heavy 
packs  with  ease,  stepping  to  the  music  of  the  bells  on 
its  scarlet  collar.  There  was  something  soothing  in 
those  bells,  timed  by  the  animal's  movement.  Then 
followed  the  puro  rye,  and  the  tarno  rye,  contrasting  in 
colour.  There  was  Zachariah  walking  by  their  side,  now 
and  then  performing,  a  slow  waltz,  to  the  tune  he  was 
playing  on  his  vioHn.  However  long  the  day,  however 
wet  and  disagreeable  the  weather,  still  his  gleaming  eyes 
and  merry  ha !  ha !  dit  a  kei,  the  torno  rye,  by  gum,  Mr. 
Smith  is  going  to  dell  (gip.,  give)  mandy  a  metramengery 
(gip.,  tea)  this  evening.  Then  came  the  tall  form  of 
Noah  with  his  Alpine  stock,  and  deer-stalking  hat,  set 
jauntily  on  one  side.  Noah  was  an  admirable  fellow  for 
loading  and  packing ;  he  had  much  improved  since  our 
campaign  last  summer ;  never  out  of  temper,  with  plenty 
of  energy  and  determination.  By  our  side  walked 
Esmeralda,  in  her  long  tweed  cloak,  fastened  round  her 
waist,  small  hat  and  feather,  and  thick  boots  studded 
with  nails.  Our  guitar,  in  a  light  cover,  was  slung  over 
her  shoulder,  whilst  we  carried,  in  a  light  cover,  made  on 
purpose,  her  tambourine,  with  our  courier  bag.  Tall 
and  slim,  with  raven  hair,  and  jet  black  eyes,  about  our 
own  height,  the  young  gipsy  girl  had  an  indomitable 
spirit.     Sometimes  she  caught  hold  of  our  hand,  so  that 


LI8TAD.  143 

it  might  be  more  help  to  her,  as  we  journeyed  onwards, 
for  she  had  had  no  sleep  the  previous  night,  and  was 
much  tired,  all  had  been  dreadfully  bitten  with  mos- 
qmtos.  The  log  houses  we  came  to,  had  their  groups  of 
peasants  waiting  to  see  us.  Some  would  run  with 
tmnnltuous  haste,  to  be  in  time,  and  a  red  cap  generally 
appeared  prominently  as  one  of  the  number.  They  had 
often  a  good-humoured  smile  on  their  countenances.  It 
was  lovely  scenery  all  the  way,  especially  when  we 
reached  the  turning  to  "  Venebrygden '*  and  crossed  a 
rapid,  broad  stream,  issuing  from  a  rocky  gorge,  beneath 
a  lofty  mountain,  whose  base  to  nearly  its  summit,  was 
covered  with  fir.  An  old  man  with  a  wallet  came  from  a 
log  house,  near  the  road,  and  we  gave  him  a  piece  of 
money.  At  length  we  came  to  a  place  we  were  told  was 
Listari.  It  was  a  large  house  of  superior  construction, 
on  the  road  side,  with  extensive  buildings,  and  an 
appearance  of  much  comfort.  Some  heads  appeared  at 
the  windows  as  we  approached.  Then  we  heard  the 
sudden  clatter  of  feet,  running  downstairs,  to  obtain  a 
nearer  view  of  our  party. 

There  was  an  excited  rush.  One  gentleman  stuck  to 
a  front  window  commanding  the  road,  and  looked  at  us 
with  a  curious,  and  amused  expression  of  countenance. 
The  old  man  with  the  wallet  joined  us  again,  and  we  gave 
him  another  piece  of  two  skillings.  He  said  something, 
which  we  thought  meant  camping  ground  beyond,  and 
passed  on.  We  were  now  anxious  to  camp.  Coming 
near  Listad  we  noticed  some  unenclosed  ground,  rising  in 
a  steep  slope,  to  the  base  of  some  fine  bold  precipitous 
rocks,  close  above  the  valley.  The  sloping  ground  was 
steep,  with  little  grass,  covered  with  loose  rocks  and  scat- 


U4  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

tered  birch-trees.  'A  rougli  turf-way  led  apparently  to  a 
first  ridge,  of  lofty  ground,  immediately  above  the  road. 
Zachariah  went  up  first,  and  hearing  his  peculiar  gipsy 
whistle,  we  all  climbed  the  track,  rough  with  uneven 
grassy  hillocks,  studded  with  birch-trees,  and  sheltered  by 
rocks.  In  a  small  hollow,  near  a  rough  fence,  at  the 
summit  of  the  ridge,  our  donkeys  were  unloaded.  It  was 
a  beautiful  camping  ground  for  our  night's  repose. 


CHAPTEK  XIV. 

*'  He  growB,  like  the  yoang  oak,  health j  and  broad, 
With  no  home  but  the  forest,  no  bed  but  the  swaitl ; 
Half  naked,  he  wades  in  the  limpid  stream. 
Or  dancee  aboat  in  the  scorching  beam. 
The  dazzling  glare  of  the  banquet  sheen 
Hath  never  fallen  on  him,  I  ween  ; 
But  fragments  are  spread,  and  the  wood-fire  piled  ; 
And  sweet  u  the  meal  of  the  gipsy  child.** 

Bliza  Cook. 

A  OOROIO COHFOBTABLE  BOVDEOAARDB — MORE  8PEILE — THE  LOST  KET — 

DEK    ASEN   TOUJOUB8 — VEGETABLE    BUBSnTUTE — THE  OOODLO  DI8CUS- 
gXON ^wives'    UTILITY — FRIENDLY     PEASANTS — NORWEGIAN     WALTZ- 
GIPSY       CHAFF — THE       DARK       WOMAN — ANXIOUS       QUERISTS — EARLY 
TI8ITOBS — TIMID     WOMAN — GIPSIES       APPREOIATED--THE       CHARMING 
POST-MIBTRESS— THE  MANSION  NEAR  HARPE  BRO. 

No  sooner  had  we  unpacked,  and  our  things  were 
under  our  waterproof,  than  a  gorgio  was  announced.  As 
if  by  magic,  a  middle  height,  thick  set  man  appeared 
through  some  birch-trees.  He  hesitated,  and  did  not 
speak.  Our  silver-mounted  flask  was  quickly  drawn  from 
its  plaid  bag,  and  we  handed  him  some  aquavet.  Silently. 
drinking,  he  nodded  his  head.  Seeing  the  end  of  a  pipe 
sticking  out  of  his  waistcoat  pocket,  we  offered  him  some 
English  tobacco,  which  he  also  took,  and  saying  in  a 
Tvbisper,  "  tak,"  vanished  as  silently  as  he  came.  A  fire 
Tvas  lighted  to  boil  the  water,  which  Zachariah  procured 
from   a  torrent  in  the  rocks  above  the  camp.     Metra* 


146  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOBWAY. 

mengry  consisted  of  tea,  fried  bacon,  two  small  trout 
caught  at  Vodvang,  and  bread.  The  rain  suddenly  com- 
menced, and  it  poured  in  torrents.  Dark  clouds  gathered 
thickly,  as  we  sat  at  tea  wrapped  in  our  waterproof  nigs. 
Not  long  afterwards  the  silent  man  returned  with  three 
others,  who  also  had  brandy.  We  pitched  our  tents  in 
the  rain,  and,  thanks  to  our  waterproof  covering,  our 
things  were  kept  tolerably  dry. 

The  view  was  magnificent.  The  broad  waters  of  the 
Logan  flowed  in  the  valley  below  us.  Islands  in  its 
stream  heightened  the  picturesque  effect.  A  considerable 
quantity  of  well  wooded  and  grassy  land  formed  the  bed  of 
the  valley.  Pleasant  bondegaards,  or  farms,  extended  to 
the  base  of  hills,  crowned  with  forest.  Beyond  rose  the 
peaks  of  the  wild  Fjelds. 

Esmeralda,  had  quite  recovered  from  her  fatigue ;  Noali 
was  now  quite  well.  Tea  is  a  grand  restorer  of  failing 
energy.  Esmeralda  was  at  once  active  in  our  tent 
arrangements.     All  things  must  have  their  place. 

"  Now,  Mr.  Smith,  look  sharp,  or  I  must  give  you  a 
severe  doing,"  and  Esmeralda's  dark  eyes  flashed  fire,  and 
sparkled  with  merriment  and  witchery.  Sometimes,  when 
we  were  a  careless  lounger  about  the  tents,  she  would 
say,  **  Dableau !  you  are  going  in  and  out,  in  and  out, 
and  never  doing  anything." 

Then  Noah  might  be  heard,  **  What  are  you  at,  Zach- 
ariah ;  can't  you  see  where  you  are  going  to  ?  I  think 
you  are  making  yourself  too  much  of  a  man ! "  An  ob- 
servation which  Zachariah  would  answer  with  "  Dawdy, 
dawdy,  fake  your  bosh;"  and,  making  a  succession  of 
droll  faces,  would  skip  about  in  the  rain,  singing,  "  Fem 
de  dura."    We  will  not  answer  for  the  correctness  of 


MORE  8PEILE.  147 

Zachariah's  intended  quotation  from  the  Norwegian  pea- 
sant girl's  song  we  heard  at  our  camp  near  Holmen. 

More  people  came  wandering  about,  some  lookmg  at 
our  donkeys  and  others  staring  at  our  tents.  They  were 
all  of  the  peasant  class,  kind,  homely-looking  people.  It 
was  about  a  quarter  to  7  o'clock  when  we  encamped. 
Taking  our  places  in  our  tents  at  about  9  o'clock  we 
commenced  our  gipsy  Norwegian  song, 'with  guitar  and 
violin  accompaniment.  Then  followed  our  song,  "  Fare- 
well;'' afterwards  dance  music,  violin  and  tambourine. 
A  tolerable  number  of  peasants  were  seated  on  the  bank 
opposite  the  entrance  to  the  tent.  They  sat  in  the  rain 
on  the  wet  grass  until  we  had  finished.  After  much 
talking,  in  which  the  female  voices  certainly  predominated, 
they  shouted  "  Farvel."  The  interest  they  seemed  to 
take  in  our  music  was  most  amusing.  They  had  such 
smiling  countenances.  One  young  peasant  girl  especially 
kept  looking  at  each  by  turns,  and  then  laughing,  until 
we  could  hardly  help  relaxing  our  expression  of  insou^ 
ciance.  As  they  departed,  a  peasant  kindly  suggested  a 
better  spot  for  the  donkeys  to  graze  than  where  the  gipsies 
had  first  put  them.  Music  being  over,  we  all  retired  to 
bed.  Just  as  we  were  dozing  away,  Zachariah's  voice 
was  heard :    "  Mr.  Smith,  sir !  " 

"  What  do  you  want,  Zachariah  ? " 

"  I  have  got  your  key  and  pencil,  sir." 

"  Never  mind,  go  to  sleep ! " 

"  But,  sir,  you  can't  unlock  your  box  without  it.  You 
must  have  it,  sir.     Otta  clocken,  more  music,  ha !  ha !  " 

Then  we  heard  scratch,  scratch  wildly  at  work,  and 
presently  Zachariah's  voice :  *'  I  can't  stand  it !  I  cannot 
stand  it  any  longer ;  these  skeato's  will  kill  me ! " 

L  2 


148  TBNT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

We  must  say  our  sleep  was  sound  and  undisturbed 
until  half-past  6  o'clock.  Much  rain  had  fallen  in  the 
night.  It  was  the  first  of  July.  Noah  lighted  the  fire, 
and  boiled  the  water.  Two  men  came  to  our  camp  and 
had  some  brandy  whilst  we  conversed  with  them  in 
broken  Norwegian.  One  was  a  traveller  from  Christiania. 
We  told  them  that  if  they  came  again  we  should  play  our 
music  at  8  o'clock  in  the  evening.  As  we  took  our 
breakfast  of  tea,  bread  and  butter,  and  potted  meat,  stray 
parties  of  peasants  watched  us  with  much  interest.  We 
gave  several  small  children  some  biscuits.  An  intelligent 
peasant  came  and  asked  a  variety  of  questions  about  the 
donkeys.  Another  brought  his  wife  and  children,  A 
large  party  came  before  our  dinner  at  1  o'clock,  and  a 
short  stout,  well-dressed  man,  with  a  turban  cap,  discussed 
in  an  animated  manner  various  matters  connected  witli 
the  donkey  race.  Their  voices  seemed  constantly  to 
mingle  with  our  ideas  as  we  wrote  a  letter  to  the  gipsies' 
friends,  in  which  Esmeralda  inclosed  some  beautiful  wild 
flowers. 

We  sent  Noah  ajid  Zachariah  to  the  river  to  fish  for 
dinner.  When  they  were  gone,  a  peasant  boy  came  up 
with  a  large  sack  of  hay,  which  he  gave  the  donkeys. 
We  were  touched  by  his  attention;  for  some  time  he 
silently  watched  them.  Before  he  left  we  gave  him  a 
copy  of  our  gipsies'  Norwegian  song.  He  took  us  by  the 
hand,  and  looked  with  such  a  kindly  expression  in  our 
face,  that  we  could  not  help  feeling  that  the  world,  aft^r 
all,  was  not  so  bad  as  we  had  thought  it.  As  a  substi- 
tute for  vegetables,  crystals  of  citric  acid,  dissolved  in 
water,  were  occasionally  taken  by  ourselves  and  the 
gipsies.    Noah  and  Zachariah  were  full  of  fun  when  thev 


THE  GOODLO  DISCUSSIOS\  '  149 

came  back  from  fishing  at  1  o'clock,  having  caught  six 
small  roach  and  perch. 

"  Ha !  ha ! "  laughed  Zachariah,  "  Air.  Smith,  I  know 
some  good  flies  for  my  fishing  this  evening.  All  right, 
sir  f  and  he  danced  a  war  dance  on  the  turf  till  he  fell 
backwards  over  a  birch  tree  stump,  to  the  great  amuse- 
ment of  himself  and  the  peasants  who  were  watching  us 
with  continuous  interest 

We  had  tea,  fish,  and  balivas  (gip.  for  bacon)  for 
dinner.  Sugar  was  a  source  of  difficulty.  In  putting  the 
sugar  first  into  each  pannikin  before  the  tea  was  poured 
out,  Zachariah  was  not  considered  an  example  of  eco- 
nomy. Not  that  we  were  inclined  to  limit  very  strictly 
liis  penchant  for  it,  but  we  were  not  sure  where  we 
might  be  able  to  get  more  when  our  stock  was  finished. 

Esmeralda  was  busy.  We  were  writing.  Noah  there- 
fore officiated,  whilst  Zachariah,  with  a  look  of  injured 
innocence,  stood  by,  and  said — 

"I  shall  not  have  anything  more  to  do  with  the 
goodlo  "  (gip.  for  sugar) ;  a  resolution  we  entirely  agreed 
to. 

Still  Zachariah  often  had  more  than  any  of  us,  which  he 
would  occasionally  acknowledge  with  "  Thank  you,  sir," 
"  God  bless  you,"  "  Quite  enough,  sir,"  as  he  stirred  it 
up  in  his  pannikin  with  an  air  of  extreme  satisfaction. 

The  bacon  and' fish  at  dinner  were  excellent ;  we  hardly 
knew  which  was  best.  A  peasant  boy  brought  us  a 
bundle  of  sticks  for  our  fire.  The  sun  became  exceedingly 
liot.  Esmeralda  and  myself  went  and  sat  in  some  shade 
near  our  tents.  Zachariah  found  a  shady  corner  under 
some  rocks.  Noah  first  looked  out  a  few  things  in  his 
tent  for  Esmeralda  to  wash.     Then  he  afterwards  stood 


150  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

in  the  shade  of  a  birch  tree,  blacking  his  boots,   and  ob- 
served to  Esmeralda — 

"  I  shall  not  help  my  wife  as  Mr.  Smith  does  you." 
"  Well,"  said  Esmeralda,  "  what  is  a  wife  for  ? '' 
"For?"  retorted  Noah  sharply,  giving  his  boot  an 
extra  brush,  "  why,  to  wait  upon  her  husband." 

"  And  what,"  said  Esmeralda,  "  is  a  husband  for?  *' 
"What's  a  husband  for?"  exclaimed  Noah,  with  a 
look  of  profound  pity  for  his  sister's  ignorance,  "  why,  to 
eat  and  drink,  and  look  on." 

It  would  seem  to  us  that  the  more  rude  energy  a  man 
has  in  his  composition,  the  more  a  woman  will  be*  made 
take  her  position  as  helpmate.  It  is  always  a  mark  of 
great  civilization,  and  tlie  effeminacy  of  a  people,  when 
women  obtain  the  undue  mastery  of  men.*  When  Noah 
had  finished  blacking  his  boots,  he  went  with  Zacliariah 
to  take  the  donkeys  for  water  along  the  road  towards 
Listad.  As  they  returned,  Noah  and  Zachariah  astonished 
the  peasants  by  racing  along  the  road  mounted  on  the 

*  Three  excellent  sermons  referring  to  marriage,  entitled  "A  Good  Wife 
God's  Gift,"  "  A  Wife  Indeed,"  and  "  Marriage  Duties/'  were  published  in  tlie 
"  Spiritual  Watch"  in  1622, by  the  eminent  theologian,  Thomas  Gataker,B.D. 
He  was  the  author  of  many  learned  works,  and  his  annotations  on  "  Marcus 
Antoninus  "  are  well  known  to  scholars.    Thomas  Gataker  was  bom  in 
1574,  of  a  very  old  and  ancient  family,  stiU  retaining  their  ancestral  heri- 
tage of  Gatacre,  in  Shropshire.    The  fonner  Hall  of  Gatacre  was  built  of 
stone,  three  sides  of  the  exterior  of  the  mansion  being  entirely  covered  with 
a  glaze  of  greenish  glass.     It  has  puzzled  many  to  account  for  the  method 
by  which  the  walls  received  their  vitreous  coating,  eflfectually  preser%-iiig 
the  stone  from  the  action  of  the  w^eather.     The  foundation  of  a  building  on 
the  estate,  where  the  glass  is  supposed  to  have  been  made,  stiU  retains  the 
name  of  the  "  Glass  House."    We  have  in  our  possession  some  of  the  stone, 
with  its  covering  of  glass,  given  to  us  by  one  of  the  family.     The  roof  of 
the  mansion  is  said  to  haVte  been  supported  by  an  enormous  oak  tree, 
turned  upside  down.    This  interesting  relic  of  former  ages  was  pulled 
down  during  the  last  century,  and  replaced  by  the  present  large  and 
spacious  brick-buUt  HaU  of  the  Gatacres  of  Gatacre, 


NORWEGIAN   WALTZ,  161 

donkeys,   with    their  faces  to   their   tails.     Noah    and 
Zachariah  afterwards  went  fishing. 

We  lounged  on  an  eminence  writing  our  notes,  and 
Esmeralda  washed  for  us  a  shirt  and  collar,  and  some  of 
lier  own  and  Noah's  things.  We  had  a  succession  of 
visitors  all  the  afternoon.  Some  wore  red  caps ;  all  were 
deeply  interested  in  the  donkeys.  In  fact,  if  we  could 
have  kept  them  secluded  in  a  tent,  we  might  have  made 
a  large  fortune  by  exhibiting  them.  We  had,  however, 
no  vnsh  to  do  so.  Our  peasant  friends  were  welcome, 
and  if  our  wild  music  gave  them  pleasure,  they  were 
welcome  to  that  also.  They  certainly  showed  us  much 
civility  and  kindness  during  our  wanderings.  We  cannot 
forget  them. 

When  we  were  at  the  tents  at  6  o'clock,  Zachariah 
had  returned  with  two  small  fishes,  and  Noah  with  one  of 
tolerable  size.  Having  made  a  hurried  tea,  a  large* 
number  of  peasants  collected,  before  8  o'clock,  about 
our  camp.  The  music  commenced  at  our  tents  soon 
afterwards,  and  then  to  give  them  an  opportunity  to 
dance,  we  went  outside.  There  was  a  good  space  of 
ground  close  below  our  tents,  but  a  tree  was  in  the 
middle  of  the  ground.  This  was  at  last  uprooted  by  the 
peasants.  Gur  beau  of  the  village  on  this  occasion  was  a 
thin,  rather  roughly-dressed,  young  man,  but  an  invete- 
rate dancer.  The  gipsies  at  once  named  him  Arthur.  If 
a  house  had  interfered  with  the  convenience  of  the  dancers 
instead  of  a  tree,  it  is  possible  that  he  would  have  pulled 
that  down  also.  Of  the  females,  two  small  girls  were  the 
best  dancers ;  and  they  seemed  thoroughly  to  enjoy  thetn- 
selves. 

The  dancers   patronised  the  skip  waltz.      It  was  a 


152  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

curious  scene.  Three  or  four  of  the  peasants  were 
dressed  in  blue  jackets  with  silver  buttons  and  silver 
frontlets  hanging  from  their  necks. 

My  gipsies  were  particularly  lively  and  in  high  spirits. 
The  variety  of  costume,  and  any  slight  eccentricity   of 
manner,  was  at  once  the  subject  of  their  criticism.     We 
did  our  best  to  moderate  their  gaiety,  and  romauy  chaff, 
now  and  then  as  they  played  their  wild  music,  we  could 
hear. 
y  Dit  a  kei !  (gip.,  look  there)  there's  Arthur !  " 
"  Ha,  ha  ;  no  it  isn't  Arthur  ;  that's  Johnny !  " 
"  Ah,  the  sapeau  (gip.,  snake) !     Why,  he's  got  Crafty 
Jemmy's  nose ! " 

"  Dik  the  gorgio  in  Uncle  Sam's  stardy  (gip.,  hat) !  " 
"  Oh  nei !  oh  nei !  What  are  you  a  salin  (gip.,  laugh- 
ing) at?"  It's  our  Elijah  vellin  (gip.,  coming)  from 
Bosbury,  a  seaport  town  in  the  middle  of  England.  Look 
at  his  chokas  (gip.,  shoes) !  Hasn't  he  got  bongy  mouee 
(gip.,  ugly  mouth)  \^' 

" Dik  that  fellow's  swagler  (gip.,  pipe)!  " 
"  Arthur  can  dance !    Now  Arthur's  a-going  it !    Well 
(lone,  Arthur ! !  " 

Bang-bang  went  the  tambourine,  as  the  beau  of  the 
village  whirled  his  partner  round,  to  the  admiration  of  the 
surrounding  throng.  There  was  no  harm  meant  by  our 
gipsies'  chaff.  If  anyone  present  had  wanted  their  assist- 
ance, they  would  have  been  the  first  to  give  it  them.  It 
was  quite  impossible  for  them  to  remain  quiet ;  naturally 
impulsive  and  gay,  they  must  laugh  in  their  lightsome 
moods.  There  were  some  young  ladies,  and  apparently 
their  brother,  sitting  near. 

As  we  were  standing  with  Esmeralda  at  our  tents, 


THE  DARK    WOMAN,  153 

whilst  Noah  and  Zachariah  were  playing,  a  dark  thick- 
set, heavy-featured  old  woman  pressed  through  the  throng 
round  us.  She  had  all  the  appearance  of  a  gipsy,  when 
she  suddenly  shook  Esmeralda  by  the  hand.  We  thought 
she  was  a  Norwegian  Zigeuner.  Then  she  took  hold  of 
Esmeralda's  large  necklace,  and  tried  to  take  it  off,  before  ' 
she  could  recover  from  her  surprise.  Immediately  we  saw 
what  she  was  doing,  we  pulled  her  away,  and  she  retired 
in  silence  through  the  crowd.  We  saw  her  afterwards, 
sittmg  on  a  bank,  watching  us. 

It  is  ten  o'clock,  and  our  music  ends,  saying,  "  God 
nat  (Nor.,  good  night),  god  folk  (Nor.,  good  people).''  We 
retired  to  our  tent.  Most  of  our  visitors  left.  One  young 
gentleman,  who  spoke  English,  said  to  Noah  outside  our 
tents,  **  A  Kttle  more  music." 

"  I  can't,  sir,"  said  Noah.  "  The  master  never  has 
any  playing  after  ten.  You  should  have  come  before. 
Sir. 

The  young  gentleman  who  had  the  young  ladies  with 
him  then  asked  Noah  what  time  we  went  in  the  morning. 

"  At  9  o'clock,  sir,"  said  Noah. 

One  of  the  young  ladies  then  inquired  in  EngUsh  if 
Noah  could  tell  fortunes. 

"No,"  said  Noah;  which  no  doubt  was  a  matter  of 
great  disappointment. 

Then  the  gentleman  asked  Noah  his  sister's  name. 

"  Agnes,"  said  Noah. 

What  next  will  he  tell  them,  thought  we,  being 
anxious  for  him  to  go  to  bed. 

Then  one  of  the  young  ladies  asked  his  sister's  age ; 
and  Noah  told  her  sixteen.  Then  he  was  asked  who  we 
were.     Not  knowing  how  long  they  would  stay — for  we 


154  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

had  to  rise  early  next  morning,  and  knowing  that  any 
curiosity  would  only  get  wide  answers  from  Noah — we 
went  out,  explaining  that  we  had  to  travel  early,  and  we 
liked  all  in  camp  to  go  to  bed  in  good  time.  They  did 
not  say  much,  but,  wishing  us  good  evening,  they  all  left. 
The  young  gentleman  spoke  very  good  English.  We 
were  still  troubled  with  a  number  of  children,  making  a 
noise  about  our  tents,  until  after  eleven,  instead  of  going 
when  the  music  ended  at  ten  o'clock.  At  last  all  was 
silence. 

We  were  up  the  next  morning  at  half-past  1  o'clock, 
enjoyed  a  good  wash,  lighted  a  fire,  and  had  Noah  and 
Zachariah  up  about  2  o'clock.  We  were  anxious  to 
give  them  all  the  rest  possible ;  Esmeralda  was  called 
the  last.  For  frokost,  we  had  tea,  fish,  bread,  and  potted- 
meat  ;  Esmeralda  and  myself  had  some  citric-acid  after- 
wards. Our  donkeys  were  nearly  loaded,  and  ready  to 
start  at  5  o'clock.  We  were  just  having  a  romp  with 
Esmeralda  and  her  two  brothers,  as  we  were  packing  up 
our  things,  and  a  men-y  laugh,  when  some  men  appeared 
at  the  fence  near  our  camping-ground.  They  seemed 
much  astonished,  and  rather  disconcerted  ;  probably,  they 
expected  to  find  us  asleep.  They  lifted  their  hats,  and 
.  soon  afterwards  left.  Our  donkeys  loaded,  we  looked 
careftilly  round  to  see  •  that  we  had  collected  all  our 
effects.  The  main  road  was  soon  gained,  when  we 
descended  from  the  steep  ridge  on  wjiicli  we  had  camped. 
We  had  now  travelled  more  than  five  Norse  miles  from 
Lillehammcr,  or  thirty-five  English  miles,  as  we  proceed 
quietly  along  the  road  from  Listad. 

We  could  never  tire   of  the  beautiftil  valley  of  the 
Logan.     Our  mode  of  travel  gave  us  ample  opportunity 


GIPSIES  APFRECIATED.  135 

to  study  its  varied  scenery.     At  any  points  of  interest 
we  could   halt,   without  the  thought  of  being  behind- 
time  at  the  next  post  station,  or  of  being  reminded  by 
the  Skydskarl  that  we  were  lingering  too  long.     It  was 
about  seven  o'clock ;  the  morning  was  very  sunny  and 
pleasant  as  we  came  to  a  place  said  to  be  Tresgone. 
The    name    is    not  marked  in  our   map.     Noah   and 
Zachariah  went  to  a  small  log-house,  near  a  mill,  at  the 
foot  of  a  gorge,  to  purchase  bread  and  butter.     Directly 
the  woman  saw  them,  she  shut  the  door  with  consider- 
able haste;   their  Alpine  stocks  had  created  a  sudden 
alarm.     After  reconnoitring  them  through  her  window, 
confidence  was  restored ;  she  opened  the  door  and  did  a 
stroke  of  business,  selling  us  four  loaves  for  fifteen  skil- 
lings.     A  man  on  horseback,  with  white  hair,  kept  with 
us  occasionally  for  some  miles  ;  he  had,  naturally,  white 
hair,  like  an  Albino,  and  not  the  result  of  age.     For 
some  distance,   at    different  points    on    the  road,  the 
peasants  hurried  from  their  work,  and,   with   anxious 
faces,  struggled  to  be  in  time  to  see  our  party  pass ; 
sometimes,  an  aged  man,  with  serious  weather-beaten 
face,  wearing  a  red  cap  on  his  head,  was  awkwardly 
scrambling  towards  the  road-fence,  followed  by  a  woman 
and  children.     At  other  times,  two  or  three  men  would 
race  along  the  road-fence  and  take  up  their  position  at 
some  distance  before  us,  waiting  the  moment  when  we 
should  pass.     In  fact,  at  times,  we  almost  felt  as  if  \ve 
were  marching  past  the  saluting-point,  leading  a  com- 
pany at  a  review,  though  the  group  of  peasants  differed 
much  from  a  staff  of  officers  at  a  saluting-point ;  we  had, 
nevertheless,  to  stand  the  test  of  what  appeared  to  be  a 
close  and  scrutinizing  examination  of  our  company. 


156  TJSNT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

At  one  time,  Noah  played  his  violin  as  he  sauntered 
along.  Occasionally,  Zachariah  was  a  short  distance 
in  advance,  with  the  donkeys,  and  the  peasants  collected 
at  the  road  side,  would  politely  take  their  hats  off  to  him, 
an  honour  Zachariah  appeared  much  to  appreciate.  We 
reached  Bran  void,*  and  at  a  station  on  the  road  side,  we 
found  we  could  post  our  letters.  The  house  was  re- 
markably clean  and  comfortable,  and  had,  apparently, 
excellent  accommodation.  The  civil  pige  found  us  a  pen 
and  ink,  and  went  to  call  her  young  mistress,  who  had 
not  yet  left  her  room.  We  met  a  gentleman  staying 
there  who  had  been  passenger  on  board  the  steamer  on 
the  Mjosen  Lake ;  he  went  out  to  ♦  look  at  the  donkeys. 
The  young  post  mistress  took  our  letters ;  one  letter  was 
to  the  gipsies'  friends.  She  was  a  very  agreeable, 
pleasant-looking  girl,  who  spoke  English  with  an 
admirable  accent.  We  paid  eight  skillings,  which  she 
said  the  postage  would  amount  to.  Soon  after  we  had 
left  the  station  she  came  running  to  us,  and  said, 
"  Mr.  Smith,  it  is  sixteen  skillings ;  "  and  received  the 
money.  Shortly  after,  she  came  driving  up  in  her 
carriole,  and  said,  "  Mr.  Smith,  I  find  it  is  sixteen  skillings 
more.'\  In  truth,  we  were  not  sorry  to  see  her  again, 
she  was  such  a  kind,  pleasant,  meny  ghl,  withal  neatly 
dressed,  and  good-looking.  We  laughed,  as  we  held  out 
the  palm  of  our  hand  containing  a  number  of  Norwegian 

•  On  the  left  of  our  road,  by  Brandvold  and  Sothorp,  are  the  Espedal 
Nikel  Works,  on  the  Espedal  Vand,  which  belonged  in  1853  to  an  English 
company,  who  were  said  to  employ  as  many  as  500  hands,  under  the 
management  of  Mr.  Forbes,  by  whose  enei^gy  the  nikel  mines  were  first 
developed.  The  mines  had  many  years  previously  been  worked  for  copper. 
The  nikel  ore  falling  in  value,  the  Espedal  Works  were  sold  to  a  Nor- 
wegian company.  The  scenery  of  the  Espedal  is  wild  and  beautiful,  and 
the  lake  is  weU  stocked  with  trout 


THE   MANSION  NEAR  HARPE  BRO, 

corns   tliat    she  might  count  out  what  she  wanted ; 
did  ^we  omit  to  pay  a  just  tribute  to  her  knowledge  of 
English  language.     After  the  young  post  mistress  1 
left  us,   iw^e   came  along  the  road  towards  a  large  hoi 
having    more    of  those  characteristics   of  the   coun 
gentleman's^  residence  than  any  we  had  yet  seen.     1 
house  stood  in  its  own  grounds,  at  a  short  distance  bef 
we  reached  the  turning  from  the  main  route  to  "  Ha 
Bro."      When  we  passed  by  it,  the  gentleman  and 
family    were  assembled  near  the   entrance-gate  to 
grounds.      He  was  a  fine,  tall,  gentlemanly  man,  accc 
panied   by  a   very  good-looking  young  lady,  who  st< 
near  him.      She  was  the  best-looking  young  lady  we  1 
yet   seen  in  Norway.     Two  young  gentlemen,  we  s 
posed  to  be  sons,  were  also  there. 

The  g-entleraan  lifted  his  hat,  and  seemed  to  give  i 
kindly  Tvelcome ;  we  returned  his  salutation.     There 
something-  pleasurable  in  such  kindly  feeling ;  we  li 
think  how  much  we  can  do  in  this  world  to  light( 
loneJy  wayfarer's  heart. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

**  We  remounted,  and  I  rode  on,  thinking  of  the  vision  of  loTelinesB 
I  was  leaving  in  that  wild  delL  We  travel  a  great  waj  to  see  hills  and 
rivers,  thought  I ;  but,  after  all,  a  human  being  is  a  more  interesting 
object  than  a  mountain.  I  shall  remember  the  little  gipsy  of  Iladjilar 
long  after  I  have  forgotten  Hermus  and  Sipylus.*' 

N.  P.  Willis. 

THE  VELOCIPEDE — ROADSIDE  HALT— LOVELY  SCENERY — DISAPPOINTED 
AUDIENCE — THE  LITTLE  GIPSY— THE  LOST  POCRET— THE  SEARCH- 
GIPSY  LAMENTATION — AMUSED  PEASANT  GIRLS — NORWEGIAN  HONESTY 
— ^THE  POQKET  POUND— A  NOBLE  HEART — PLEASANT  VOYAGEURS— 
PATRINS — STORKLEVSTAD — TAMBOURINE  LOST  — NORWEGIAN  HONESTY 
— ECCENTRIC  VISITS — INTERROGATORY — ^THE  CAPTAIN — THE  INTERVIEW 
— ^THE  VILLAGE  MAGNATE- MEQET  GODT— ESMERALDA  IN  CAMP — 
THE  LAST  VISIT- THE  MOORLAND  MAIDEN. 

We  had  not  gone  far  along  the  road,  when  we  saw  a 
blacksmith's  shop ;  a  man  suddenly  appeared  from  it,  and 
came  towards  us  on  a  velocipede 

"Why,"  said  Esmeralda,  ** there's  a  velocity  " ! 

"  What  broad  wheels,"  said  Zachariah. 

"  It's  Arthur  coming  to  town,"  answered  Noah. 

The  man  was  working  it  along  might  and  main,  with 
his  hair  flying ;  he  was  a  strong  framed  man,  with  an 
intelligent  coimtenance.  The  velocipede  was  probably 
manufactured  by  himself ;  although  very  roughly  made,  he 
managed  to  go  at  a  fair  pace ;  when  we  came  to  the 
route  turaing  from  •  the  main  road  to  "  Harpe  Bro" 
our  companion  with  the  naturally  white  hair,  who  had 
occasionally  ridden  with  us  during  the  morning,  and  by 


ROADSIDE  HALT.  159 

whose  assistance  we  had  increased  our  vocabulary  of 
Norwe^an  words,  wished  us  good  day. 

At  a  short  distance  beyond  the  blacksmith's  shop,  as 
our  donkeys  were  in  advance,  they  strayed  off  the  road 
into  an  open  fir  wood.  Two  young  ladies,  and  a  man 
had  followed  us  for  a  short  distance;  they  seemed  to 
think  we  were  going  to  halt  in  the  wood,  and  as  they  stood 
watching  us,  we  thought  they  seemed  disappointed,  when 
the  donkeys  were  driven  back  to  the  road,  and  continued 
their  journey.  It  was  rather  too  early  in  the  day  for  rest. 
Sauntering  quietly  along,  we  at  length  came  to  an  open 
space  having  a  wooden  seat;  this  accommodation  we 
particularly  noticed  in  Norway  at  some  points  on  the  way- 
side. Generally,  in  a  pleasant  romantic  spot,  the  ground 
is  gravelled  from  the  road,  and  a  long  wooden  seat  is 
placed  for  the  convenience,  and  rest  of  the  weary  way- 
farer. In  selecting  this  spot,  care  is  taken  that  it  is  near 
water,  and  close  by,  we  usually  found  a  deliciously  clear 
stream,  to  slake  the  travellers'  thirst.  On  this  occasion 
we  at  once  commenced  unloading  our  baggage  near  the 
wooden  seat,  and  as  we  did  not  intend  to  remain  very 
long,  Noah  left  the  pockets  girthed  on  two  of  the 
donkeys,  who  soon  after  wandered  off  to  graze. 

When  we  looked  round  we  were  struck  with  the 
beauty  of  the  scene.  Not  far  above  us,  on  the  opposite 
side  the  road,  a  log  cottage  stood  lonely  on  the  side  of  a 
steep  rising  hill.  A  brawling  stream  passed  underneath 
the  road  near  us ;  we  saw  it  again,  as  it  issued  from  a 
narrow  brick  arch,  and  was  soon  lost  in  the  bushes  of  the 
declivity,  which  formed  the  bank  of  the  Logan  just  below. 

The    picturesque   summit   of  a  mountain  closed  the 
narrow  valley  from  the  world  beyond. 


I 


leo  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

Leaving  our  things  ])y  the  seat,  we  went  down  to  the 
stream  at  the  arch  below  the  road,  and  crossed  to  a  small 
patch  of  green  sward  on  the  other  side.  It  was  quiet  and 
sheltered,  and  our  fire  was  soon  lighted.  Tea,  sardines, 
bread  and  cheese,  formed  our  repast.  A  w^oman  from 
the  log  cottage  came  down  and  stood  near  looking  at 
us.  We  gave  some  biscuits  to  a  small  child  in  her 
arms;  Zachariah  was  sent  off  to  fish.  It  was  about  10 
o'clock  when  we  arrived ;  the  view  was  charming ;  Noah 
lounged  on  the  grass  with  the  violin ;  as  he  was  tuning 
it  up,  a  young  man  came  and  leaned  over  the  rails  of  the 
road  above,  in  silent  contemplation.  He  is  expecting 
some  music.  You  little  think,  my  young  friend,  the  treat 
you  are  going  to  have,  thought  we.  When  Noah  began 
to  scrape,  the  effect  was  marvellous ;  we  turned,  and  the 
young  man  was  gone.  The  sounds  ceased,  for  Noah 
himself  fell  asleep.  Esmeralda  had  a  very  fair  voice. 
It  was  pleasant  to  hear  her  sing  at  times,  as  we  walked 
along  the  winding  valley  of  the  GudbransdaJen.  Now  we 
amused  ourselves  talking  by  the  camp  fire,  and  as  we 
reclined  on  our  waterproofs,  we  wrote  down  at  her 
dictation,  one  of  her  ballads :  "  The  Little  Gipsy,"  with 
the  addition  of  a  few  words,  by  a  gipsy  aunt,  where 
Esmeralda's  memory  had  failed.  We  now  give  the  song 
in  its  entirety.  It  has  been  long  a  favourite  with  the 
country  people. 

THE  LITTLE  GIPSY. 

1. 

My  father's  the  King  of  the  Gipsies,  that's  true  ; 
My  mother,  she  learned  me  some  camping  to  do, 
With  a  packel  on  my  back,  and  they  all  wish  me  weU, 
I  started  up  to  London,  some  fortunes  for  to  telL 


THE  LITTLE  GIPSY.  161 


As  I  was  a-^alking  up  fair  London  street:^, 

Two  handsome  young  Bt^uires  I  cbtinced  for  to  meet. 

They  vievr'd  my  brown  cheeks,  and  they  liked  them  so  well, 

They  said,  My  little  gipy  girl,  can  you  my  fortune  tell  ? 

3. 

Oh  yes  !  kind  sir,  give  me  hold  of  your  hand  ; 
For  you  have  got  honours,  both  riches  and  land. 
Of  all  the  pretty  maidens,  you  must  lay  aside  ; 
For  it  is  the  little  gipsy  girl  that  is  to  be  your  bride. 

4. 

He  led  me  o'er  hills,  through  valleys  deep,  I'm  sure, 

Where  I'd  servants  for  to  wait  on  me,  and  open  me  the  door  ; 

A  rich  bed  of  dowle,  to  lay  my  head  upon. 

In  less  than  nine  months  after,  I  could  his  fortune  tell. 

5. 

Once  I  was  a  gipsy  girl,  but  now  a  squire's  bride, 
Fve  servants  for  to  wait  on  me,  and  in  my  carriage  ride. 
The  bells  shall  ring  so  merrily  ;  sweet  music  they  shall  play, 
And  we'll  crown  the  glad  tidings  of  that  lucky,  lucky  day. 


Two  men  with  carts  passed  whilst  we  were  resting, 
and  they  halted  to  look  at  our  donkeys. 

It  was  nearly  2  o'clock,  when  myself  and  Noah  went 
lip  to  the  wooden  seat  to  load  the  animals.  As  we  were 
standing  by  our  things,  a  carriage  passed,  a  gentleman 
driving  with  apparently  his  son,  asked  if  we  were  going  to 
camp  there,  we  told  him  we  were  going  on ;  He  asked  how 
many  miles  we  travelled  in  a  day,  and  we  answered  four- 
teen or  fifteen.  They  wished  us  a  pleasant  excursion,  we 
wished  him  hon  voyage^  and,  lifting  our  hats,  he  drove  on. 
Two  donkeys  were  packed,  and  Noah  brought  up  the 
third.  Where*^B  the  pocket?  said  Noah,  looking  rather  wild. 
"  Pocket  V  said  we,  "  is'nt  it  among  the  things  ?  "  No,  sir, 
we  never  took  it  oflF;  "  it  must  have  slipt  off  somewhere." 

M 


162  TENT  LIFE  JN  NORWAY. 

In  fact,  we  had  not  taken  the  pockets  oflF  two  of  the 
donkeys,  but  one  pocket  had  been  pushed  off  by  the  Puru 
Rawnee,  against  the  road  rails,  whilst  we  were  at  lunch, 
and  Noah  had  placed  it  by  the  seat ;  what  had  become  of 
the  other  we  could  not  tell ;  we  both  went  some  distance 
along  the  road  where  they  had  been  browsing,  but  could 
not  find  it.  Esmeralda  was  much  enraged.  All  her 
things  with  Noah  and  Zachariah's  scanty  stock,  and  their 
sheets,  tent  blankets,  and  sleeping  blankets,  were  also  in 
the  lost  pocket.  We  went  up  to  the  house,  and  managed 
to  explain  to  two  women  the  position  we  were  in.  Noah 
said :  "  Sir,  it  must  have  been  taken  off,  for  there  is  no  mark 
on  the  road  where  it  has  come  down."  Esmeralda  fixed 
her  suspicions  on  the  unfortunate  cart  drivers,  who  had 
been  looking  at  the  donkeys;  we  repudiated  the  idea, 
and  said  they  were  driving  the  wrong  way  to  have  done 
so.  A  vigorous  search  was  made,  with  the  help  of  the 
younger  peasant  woman,  amongst  the  bushes  of  the  steep 
bank,  between  the  road  and  the  river,  where  the  two 
donkeys  had  been  also  wandering,  but  no  pocket  could 
be  found. 

We  decided  to  go  on.  To  the  young  peasant  girl,  who 
seemed  as  anxious  as  ourselves  for  its  recovery,  we  gave 
a  mark,  and  an  address,  so  that  the  pocket,  if  found, 
might  be  sent  to  Nystuen,  to  the  "  Herren  mit  drei 
asen."*  Esmeralda  rode  one  donkey,  and  in  no  very 
enviable  frame  of  mind,  we  hurried  along  at  a  rapid 
pace. 

Noah  exclaimed,  "  I  could  sit  down  and  cry,  sir.  I 
don't  want  no  tea — I  can't  eat." 

"  Well,  I  can,"  said  Esmeralda,  boiling  with  indigna- 

•  To  the  gentlemen  with  three  donkeys. 


GIPSY  LAMENTATION.  163 

tioD.  *'  I  know  it  is  taken  ;  we  shall  never  see  it  again. 
My  small  smoothing-iron,  I  would  not  have  parted  with 
it  for  anything,  I  have  had  it  so  long ;  and  my  dress — " 
and  she  half  gave  way  to  a  flood  of  tears.  "  It  will  do 
them  as  has  taken  it  no  good." 

Zachariah  had  just  joined  us  from  the  river  without 
a  fish. 

"  Ah,"  said  he,  in  a  weeping  tone,  "  my  pretty  dicklo 
(gip.  handkerchief)  is  gone." 

I  believe  this  handkerchief  constituted  nearly  the  whole 
strength  of  his  wardrobe, 

"  It  is  fortunate,"  said  we,  "  both  pockets  were  not 
lost.  We  must  manage  as  well  as  we  can ;  some  shelter 
is  left,  and  all  our  provisions.  It  might  have  been  worse. 
You  shall  have  more  blankets,  Noah.  We  are  quite 
sure  the  pocket  has  not  been  taken ;  they  are  honest  in 
Norway — ^far  more  honest  than  most  other  countiies  we 
have  travelled." 

So  we  pushed  along  till  we  saw  a  blacksmith,  and 
two  other  men  standing  at  the  road  side.  We  ex- 
plained our  loss  to  them  as  well  as  we  could.  They 
pointed  to  a  fir  wood  above  us  as  a  convenient  camping- 
ground,  but  we  wanted  to  proceed  on  our  journey,  and 
went  on.  At  the  next  place  we  came  to,  we  pur- 
chased four  loaves  of  bread  for  fifteen  skillings.  At 
one  large  house  we  passed,  near  the  road  side,  a  large 
number  of  persons  were  assembled,  probably  at  some 
fete.  There  was  a  general  rush  to  see  us.  When  we 
came  to  a  large  wooden  water  trough  on  the  road  side, 
some  girls  who  saw  us,  ran  down  the  meadow  above ; 
they  were  great  loosely-dressed  peasant  girls,  who 
laughed  at  us  immoderately. 

M  2 


164  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

"  T^Tiat  are  the  sapeaus  (gip.  snakes)  crying  about  ? " 
said  Esmeralda,  m  no  very  good  temper. 

At  any  other  time  she  would  have  laughed  with  them. 

-  "  Ah !  the  Bongy  mouees  "  (gip.  ugly  mouths),  shouted 

Zachariah.     "They  were  tolerably  well  slap-dashed  in 

Romany,  as  I  have  no  doubt  we  were  good-humouredly 

in  Norwegian. 

We  had  not  gone  many  yards  from  the  water  trough, 
when  the  young  woman  we  had  seen  at  oiu*  mid-day 
halt,  came  running  round  a  comer  of  the  road.     She 
seemed  half  fainting  and  exhausted,  and,  staggering   to 
the  water-trough    when  she  saw  us,  she  dashed  some 
water  over  her  face,  and  hurriedly  drank  some.     We  at 
once  stopped  the  donkeys,  and  the  girls  above  the  road 
ceased  laughing.     They  seemed  puzzled  at  the  scene. 
We  went  to  the  poor  girl,  who  said,  when  she  was  able 
to  speak,  she  had  found  the  pocket,  which  had  slipped 
off  the  donkey  close  to  the  river's  edge.     It  was  lucky  it 
had  not  rolled  in.     Being  satisfied  from  the  things  she 
found  inside  the  pocket,  that  it  belonged  to  us,  she  had 
followed  us  with  it,  and  at  last  left  it  at  some  place  on 
the  road,  so  that  she  might  more  quickly  overtake  us. 
It  was  decided  that  Noah  would  take  one  of  the  donkeys, 
and  go  back  with  the  peasant  girl  for  the  pocket.   We  were 
profuse  in  our  thanks  to  her  ;  she  was  a  good,  honest  girl. 
We  don't  think  our  gipsies  will  ever  again  believe,  that  such 
a  thing  as  dishonesty,  is  possible  in  Norway.   Pulling  out 
a  large*  handful  of  money  from  our  pocket,  we  pressed  it 
into  the  girl's  hands.     She  wished  to  give  part  back ;  it 
was  too  much,  she  did  not  like  to  take  it  all.     We  would 
have  no  denial ;  as  she  was  returning  she  took  out  her 
handkerchief  in  which  she  had  placed  the  money,  and 


PATRIN8.  1C5 

again  offered  us  part ;  she  did  not  like  to  take  so  much. 
We  made  her  put  it  back.  Under  sucli  circumstances 
what  cared  we  what  the  sum  was ;  we  felt  inclined 
to  give  her  all  we  possessed,  she  had  been  so  honest. 
How  much  inconvenience  we  might  have  experienced, 
but  for  the  activity  and  kindness  of  this  Norwegian 
peasant  girl.  Shaking  her  heartily  by  the  hand,  she 
returned  with  Noah.  We  may  never  meet  again;  we 
do  not  even  know  hef  name.  Yet  there  is  a  world 
beyond  this.  May  her  fate  be  with  the  blessed  of-  a 
future  and  etema,l  life.  Continuing  our  route,  we  left 
behind  us  Burre^  and  the  tmn  to  Kvikne.  It  may  easily 
be  imagined  we  went  along  in  much  better  spirits ;  all 
was  sunshine.  Noah  would  follow  with  the  lost  pocket, 
and  find  us  in  our  camping-ground.  Patrins,*  intel- 
ligible to  our  gipsy  party,  were  strewed  as  we  went  along 

*  Patron,  Sundt's  Norwegian  gipsy,  signifying  a  leaf,  a  signal ;  Patrin, 
Paspati*s  TnrkiBh  gipsy,  a  leaf;  Patrin,  in  the  "  Italien  Lingua  Zingaiesca '' 
of  Francesco  Predari ;  Patrin,  in  Hoyland's  "  English  Gipsy  ;"  Patrin  in 
£iacho£rs  "  Dentsch-Zigeunerisches ;  **  Patrin,  in  the  ^  Qerman  Qipsy 
Yocaholary  "  of  Dr.  Liehich.  Patrin  is  also  given  as  German  gipsy  by 
Orellmann.  The  word  is  used  by  gipsies,  signifying  a  signal  or  sign  on  the 
gipsy  trail  to  indicate  to  other  gipsies,  who  understand  this  silent  language, 
the  route  they  have  taken.  The  word  is  pronounced  occasionaUy  with 
isonie  slight  variation,  as  patteran,  patrin.  Borrow,  in  his  admirable  work, 
"  The  Zincali  ;  or  An  Account  of  the  Gipsies  in  Spain,"  vol.  i.,  p.  37,  uses 
"  Patteran."  We  have  spelt  the  word  as  nearly  as  possible  as  pronounced 
by  the  gipsies  of  our  party.  Patrins  of  chor  (gip.  grass)  are  commonly  put 
by  gipsies.  Some  gipsies  we  have  met  with  used  to  put  patrins  for  their 
favourite  blind  dog,  "  Spot,"  when  he  had  strayed  or  lingered  far  behind. 
A  few  blades  of  grass  or  leaves  crushed  in  the  gipsy  female's  hand,  and  cast 
on  the  road,  were  scented  out  by  the  blind  animal,  who  ultimately  reached 
the  encampment.  Spot  would  occasionally  remain  all  day  in  charge  of  the 
tents,  and  would  never  steal  a  morsel  of  the  hobben  (food),  though  he  were 
famishing ;  "  but,"  said  the  gipsy  female,  "  dogs  brought  up  in  the  tents 
are  like  nobody  else's  dogs,  and  they  know  our  language  as  well  as  we  do 
ourselves."  Poor  Spot  strayed  one  day,  and,  losing  the  trail,  they  never 
saw  him  again. 


166  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

the  road.  Pieces  of  grass,*  ta  all  appearance  scattered 
carelessly  along  the  route,  yet  they  had  a  meaning,  and  a 
language  which  a  gipsy  easily  reads.  The  points  of 
the  grass  indicated  the  way  we  took. 

Although  anxious  to  finish  our  day's  journey,  we  could 
find  no  convenient  camping-ground.  We  met  the  gentle- 
man we  had  conversed  with  in  the  morning.  His  son 
descended  from  the  carriage  to  lead  the  horse  by  the 
donkeys.  Kindly  salutations  were  exchanged.  Noah 
said  that  when  the  gentleman  afterwards  met  him,  he 
said,  "  Your  master  seems  a  pleasant  gentleman." 

'*  *  Well,  sir,  he's  always  the  same/  I  answered,  and 
the  son  gave  me  a  cigar,  whilst  the  gentleman  sent  his 
kind  regards  to  you,  sir." 

Our  camp  rules  were  relaxed,  and  Noah  was  of 
course  allowed  on  tliis  occasion  to  smoke.  We  continued 
our  way  up  a  narrow  gorge  between  high  mountains,  but 
did  not  find  any  convenient  camping-ground.  In  the 
distance  we  saw  log  houses  near  the  river  Logan.  These 
were  Storklevstad,  Viig,  and  Qvam.  As  we  descended 
the  road  we  noticed  a  rough  narrow  way  on  our  right, 
with  a  telegraph  post  in  the  centre.  Zachariah  went 
and  reported  that  it  led  to  a  large  common  extending 
to  mountains  beyond.  Esmeralda  and  myself  were  at 
first  inclined  to  continue  our  route.  As  we  were  con- 
sidering, a  young  man  having  the  appearance  of  a 
carpenter  came  by,  and  we  asked  him  if  we  could  camp 
there.   He  said  "  Ya,  ya,"  and  the  lane  bemg  too  narrow, 

•  The  gipsy  word  "  chor/*  Bignifying  grass,  is  sometimes  pronounced  by 
English  gipsies  like  "  chaw,"  without  the  "  r  "  being  sounded.  The  Nor- 
wegian gipsies  use  **  Tjar  "  ;  the  German  gipsies,  "  Tschar."  Borrow  gives 
"chur*"  as  the  Spanish  gipsy  for  grass.  The  Italian  gipsies  use  "char" 
and"TBchar."   - 


TAMBOURINE  LOST.  167 

and  awkward  for  the  donkeys  to  go  up  loaded,  the  man 
helped  us,  very  kindly,  to  unload  our  heavy  packs,  and 
assisted  us  to  carry  them  to  a  rock  on  the  common  ;  we 
gave  him  two  demi  vers  of  brandy.  The  distance  we  had 
travelled  had  been  long,  the  weather  seemed  inclined  for 
rain,  and  we  were  glad  to  get  in  for  night  quarters. 
This  comer  of  the  common  was  bounded  by  hedges. 
Under  a  thick  high  hedge  on  the  common  side  we  made 
a  fire,  and  our  tea  was  soon  ready,  with  ham  fried  in  oil, 
and  bread.  Noah  came  in  time  for  tea,  and,  selecting  a 
camping-ground  on  the  common,  put  up  the  tent-rods. 
The  moorland,  extending  up  a  mountain,  was  covered 
with  large  masses  of  rock  and  low  bushes.  Visitors  soon 
came.  An  old  man  with  a  wallet  gave  our  donkeys 
some  bread  whilst  we  were  at  tea,  and  we  gave  him 
some  brandy.  Women  and  children  came,  and  were 
very  civil.  Our  tents  were  soon  pitched,  and  arranged, 
and  our  things  carefully  stowed  away.  Tlie  watei-proof 
was  80  placed  over  our  tents,  that  our  visitors  were  obliged 
to  sit  down,  in  order  to  see  us  through  the  opening. 

Noah  searched  for  his  tambourine,  but  it  could  not  be 
found,  to  his  consternation  ;  we  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  it  must  have  been  left  on  the  hedge  bank  near  the 
water  trough.  Noah  was  loud  in  his  lamentation,  when 
a  peasant  suddenly  brought  it  to  the  tent.  We  had 
left  it  where  we  supposed,  and  the  peasant  honestly 
restored  the  tambourine.  We  gave  him  a  good  recompense 
with  many  thanks,  though  he  did  not  seem  to  wish  any 
money  reward.  We  had  seldom  met  such  kindly  people. 
Gladly  we  commenced  playing  our  music,  and  having  re- 
covered all  our  things,  we  were  much  pleased  to  find 
ourselves  in  a  comfortable  camphig-ground  for  the  night. 


168  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

Scarcely  had  we  commenced  playing,  than  the  crowd  of 
people  increased  round  our  tents.  It  was  as  much  as  we 
could  do  to  keep  them  from  crushing  the  tents  in.  One 
little  man  in  spectacles,  and  a  curious  tumed-up  hat, 
with  a  knowing  comical  expression  of  countenance,  came 
crawling  into  our  tent  on  all  fours.  First  he  looked  up 
at  Noah,  then  at  Zachariah,  then  at  Esmeralda,  and  then 
at  myself.  We  did  not  stop  our  playing.  He  put  up 
his  finger  as  a  signal  for  us  to  stop,  but  we  could  not 
interrupt  the  tune.  Then  he  expectorated  freely  on  the 
intervening  space  in  our  tents  ;  fortunately,  that  part 
was  only  turf,  but  the  absence  of  saliva  was  at  all 
times  preferred.  Then  he  stared  curiously  through  his 
spectacles,  being  still  on  his  hands  and  knees.  Some 
village  magnate,  thought  we.  Then  he  suddenly  sum- 
moned all  his  energy,  and  asked  loudly  all  kinds  of  ques- 
tions in  Norwegian,  whilst  we  continued  our  music.  We 
thought  he  was  slightly  intoxicated,  but  it  may  have  been 
an  eccentricity  of  manner.  He  seemed  to  know  some 
words  of  English.  Noah  said  *'  Don't  know  "  to  most 
questions.  We  could  distinguish  the  word  Tater,  and  Noah 
said  **  shoemaker,"  and  nodding  at  Zachariah,  "  cobbler." 
Then  he  addressed  some  question  to  ourself,  to  which  we 
answered  "Nei,  nei."  "  Jeg  gaae  Romsdalen,"  still  per- 
severing, he  pointed  to  Esmeralda,  who  was  rattling  her 
tambourine,  and  he  seemed  specially  anxious  to  know 
what  part  she  took  in  the  economy  of  the  tents.  At 
last  he  was  quiet  for  a  short  time,  and  some  one  who 
did  not  like  his  attempted  interruption  of  the  music, 
pulled  him  out  by  his  legs.  Alas!  he  soon  returned, 
crawling  in  again  to  the  tent,  expectorating  as  usual. 
Noah  seemed  his   grand  point  of  attack.     Addressing 


THE  CAPTAIN,  169 

Noah,  Le  pointed  to  us  with  a  look  of  triumphant  dis- 
covery, and  said,  "  Artistique,"  but  Noah  did  not  seem 
to  comprehend. 

We  are  afraid  his  pertinacity  met  with  very  little  re- 
ward. A  considerable  number  of  persons  continued  round 
our  tents,  and  we  finished  music  towards  10  o'clock.  Then 
our  visitors  wanted  more  music.  It  was  very  •  compli- 
mentary to  our  musical  talent,  but  we  did  not  play  after 
10  o'clock.  One  young  man  who  spoke  some  English, 
came  to  us,  and  asked  to  have  more  music.  We  ex- 
plained that  we  had  been  up  at  2  o'clock  that  morning, 
and  did  not  allow  music  after  10  o'clock,  and  wanted  to  go 
to  bed.  Our  visitors  did  not  go  for  some  time,  but  kept 
talking,  and  making  a  noise,  until  nearly  11,  when  we 
gladly  fell  asleep. 

Another  Sunday.  We  welcomed  the  day  as  we  ate  our 
breakfast  of  tea,  potted  meat,  and  bread.  Then  the  word 
was  given  that  the  gorgios*  were  a  vellin.  Many  visitors 
soon  collected,  who  were  so  curious,  that  one  of  our  party 
had  to  stand  at  the  entrance  to  the  tents  during  the 
morning.  A  young  man  in  long  riding  boots  and  horse- 
man's cloak,  with  a  whip  in  his  hand,  speaking  English 
and  German,  informed  us  that  an  English  captain  would 
shortly  pass  if  we  liked  to  see  him.  We  said  if  he  were 
going  to  Lillehammer  he  might  render  us  a  service.  An 
intelligent  young  Norwegian  peasant  said  he  would  let 
us  know,  when  the  captain  came  along  the  road.  We 
conversed  some  portion  of  the  morning  with  our  visitors, 
and  added  to  our  knowledge  of  Norsk  language. 

At  last  the  young  Norwegian  came  and  said  the  cap- 
tain was  come.     We  took  Noah  and  the  young  peasant 

*  Goiigio — any  person  not  a  gipsy. 


170  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

with  US,  and  started  towards  the  village  of  "Qvam," 
After  a  sharp  walk  we  reached  a  post  station  on  the  road 
side  near  the  river,  and  leaving  Noah  and  the  peasant  in 
the  large  kitchen  with  a  bottle  of  "  Baiersk  01,"  we  went 
into  an  inner  room  to  see  the  captain. 

The  officer,  whom  we  expected  to  find  an  Englishman, 
was  Norwegian.  The  French  language  was  at  once  our 
medium  of  communication.  We  quickly  explained  that  we 
had  lost  two  hats  between  the  Honnefos  and  Moshuus,  and 
if  en  passant  he  heard  of  them,  we  were  anxious  to  have 
them  forwarded  to  Nystuen,  and  a  handsome  reward  would 
be  given.  He  looked  at  our  route  on  the  map.  Monsieur 
le  Capitaine  was  just  going  to  dinner  ;  a  fine  pink  trout 
was  served  up.  The  captain  asked  us  if  we  were  going 
to  dine,  but  was  informed  that  our  dinner  waited  us  at 
the  camp.  He  said  he  should  be  happy  to  inquire,  and 
should  meet  us  next  morning,  when  he  was  returning. 
The  captain  spoke  French  very  well,  and  at  first  sight 
we  should  have  taken  him  for  a  French  officer.  There 
was  a  gentlemanly  frankness  about  him  which  pleased  us. 
Although  not  tall,  he  was  of  compact  build,  strong,  and 
energetic,  much  indication  of  prompt  and  rapid  action — 
one  prone  to  vigour  of  thought,  and  quickness  of  decision. 
He  possessed  the  bearing  of  a  military  man.  We  regretted 
we  could  not  see  more  of  him.  ^  Giving  him  our  card, 
and  shaking  hands,  we  parted. 

Noah  and  the  Norwegian -were  allowed  another  bottle 
of  "  Baiersk  01 "  on  our  return  to  the  kitchen,  and  taking 
a  sip  to  drink  "  gamle  norge,"  we  immediately  left. 

The  peasant  returned  with  us.  At  a  short  distance 
from  our  camp,  the  village  magnate  came  forth  fi:om  a 
house,  still  wearing  his  curious  turned-up  hat    The  little 


MEGET  GODT.  171 

man  seemed  rather  pleased  to  see  ns.  As  be  advanced 
with  a  comical  expression  of  countenance,  he  appeared  to 
have  something  of  importance  to  communicate.  We 
politely  paused  a  moment.  He  wanted  to — to — "  sell  us 
a  cheese ! " 

The  peasant  took  a  share  of  our  dinner  which  was 
ready  in  camp.  We  were  obliged  to  take  our  dinner 
inside  our  tents,  on  account  of  the  number  of  visitors. 
They  were  never  absent.  It  was  a  matter  of  conjecture 
whether  they  eter  ate  anything  themselves  ;  they  seemed 
to  be  at  our  camp  from  morning  till  night.  Our  sensa- 
tions were  probably  similar  to  those  formerly  experienced 
by  the  lions  in  Wombwell's  well-known  menagerie,  when 
viewed  at  feeding  time. 

Esmeralda  had  the  soup  ready,  which  consisted  of 
white  beans,  pea  flour,  rice,  and  Liebig's  essence  of 
meat  Our  peasant,  as  he  sat  on  the  grass  near  us^ 
with  his  bowl  of  soup,  seemed  thoroughly  to  enjoy  it 
We  gave  him  some  English  Cheddar  cheese,  from 
Hudson  Bros.,  which  seemed  to  astonish  him;  and  we 
heard  him  say  to  our  mterested  visitors  "  meget  godt " 
(very  good). 

Whilst  we  had  been  absent,  one  young  fellow,  who 
spoke  a  little  English,  came  to  our  tents,  and  presuming 
too  far  upon  Esmeralda's  good  nature,  received  a  severe 
blow  on  the  shoulder  with  a  stick,  which  shut  him  up. 
Probably  to  raise  his  spirits,  he  asked  Zachariah  to  give 
tim  some  of  his  master's  brandy,  which  resulted  in  a 
sharp  answer,  «nd  he  left  the  camp. 

During  dinner  time  a  large  number  of  visitors  care- 
folly  watched  our  smallest  movements.  We  had  no 
idea  we  could  possibly  meet  with  so  much  solicitude  as 


172  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

evinced,  by  the  good  people  of  Storklevestad,  Viig,  and 
Qvam. 

After  dinner,  leaving  our  gipsies  in  charge  of  the  tents, 
we  retired  to  the  mountain,  to  enjoy  some  quietude,  and 
cotitemplation.  How  we  watched  the  beautiful  scene 
before  us!  The  Blaa  Fjeld,  and  the  picturesque  river 
Logan !  The  nature  of  this  world,  as  God  made  it,  is 
ever  beautiful.     Who  can  tire  of  its  contemplation  ? 

When  we  returned  at  6  o'clock,  throngs  of  visitors — 
as  a  German  would  say,  "  Immer !  Ihimer !  " — were 
grouped  about  the  tents.  Esmeralda  was  at  the  fire  pre- 
paring for  tea,  with  several  young  fellows  buzzing  about 
her.  We  seemed  to  come  like  a  cloud  upon  their  sun- 
shine. Their  fun  was  harmless,  but  obstructive  to  our 
chances  for  the  next  meal.  Esmeralda  was  sent  into  the 
tents  to  get  the  tea  things  ready.  Noah  soon  brought 
the  tea,  and  we  did  not  go  out  again.  Our  visitors  wan- 
dered about  round  and  round  our  tents,  sometimes  gazing 
at  the  donkeys,  then  returning,  till  about  half-past  10, 
when  they  all  left. 

How  calm  and  quiet  the  Norwegian  night,  when  the 
hum  of  voices  is  hushed !  How  dehghtful,  as  we  looked 
forth  from  our  tents !  Then  we  distinguished  three 
figures  gliding  over  the  moorland  towards  us.  They  ap- 
proached ;  it  was  about  11  o'clock.  There  was  the 
bright-eyed,  good-looking  Pige,  whom  we  had  noticed  at 
our  tents  during  the  day,  without  shoes  or  stockings. 
Now  she  had  some  stockings  on,  probably  borrowed  from 
some  friend,  to  give  her  a  more  respectable  appearance. 
She  was  followed  by  a  little  boy  and  girl ;  and  as  she 
hovered  near  our  tents,  she  pointed  to  Noah,  and  then 
towards  her  cottage  in  the  distance.     She  made  love  by 


THE  MOORLAND  MAIDEN.     '  173 

signs.  In  vain  we  wished  her  "  good  nigbt."  Poor  girl ! 
She  stiD  lingered,  sometimes  pointing  to  herself,  and  then 
towards  the  village. 

We  were  just  going  out  to  persuade  her  to  go  home, 
when  Esmeralda  asked,  why  we  should  trouble  ourselves 
about  her. 

"  Why  should  we  ?  "  We  at  once  gave  up  the  diplo- 
matic mission.  Zachariah  was  sent  outside  the  tents 
instead,  and  made  signals  for  her  to  go.  Smiling,  she 
said,  in  a  clear,  pleasant  voice,  '*  Farvel,  adieu ! "  and, 
kissing  her  baud,  left. 

Oh,  no !  she  was  quickly  back  again,  followed  by  her 
Lilliputian  retinue,  who  floundered  after  her  among  the 
rocks.  There  she  lingered  like  the  siren  of  the  Rhine. 
Noah  was  fortunately  spell-bound  in  his  tent.  Who 
knows,  if  he  had  gone,  he  may  at  this  moment  have  been, 
a  denizen  of  Storklevestad !  She  again  seemed  going 
from  our  tents. 

Thank  goodness  !  we  are  now  quiet.  Vain  delusion  ! 
''  Farvel,  adieu  ! ''  She  was  again  standing  on  a  rock  near 
our  tents.  How  she  lingered!  Perhaps  Noah  might 
change  his  mind.  "  Farvel,  adieu !  "  we  said.  "  Farvel, . 
adieu ! "  the  gipsies  shouted.  She  loved — she  lingered. 
Koah  came  not.  At  last  she  went ;  but  we  could  see 
lier,  as  she  went  across  the  moorland,  at  times  turn,  and 
stand  irresolute  ;  till  the  very  last,  "  Farvel,  adieu  ! "  of 
the  Norwegian  peasant  girl  died  upon  the  wind,  and  we 
all  went  to  sleep. 


CHAPTER  XVL 


DIB  DKBI  ZIGBUNER. 

''Drei  zigenner  fand  ich  einmal 
Liegen  an  einer  Weide, 
Alfl  mein  Fuhnrerk  mit  mUder  Qiial 
Schlick  diiTcli  sandige  Haide. 

Hielt  der  eine  f  iir  sicli  allein 
In  der  Ilanden  die  Fiedel, 

Spielte  umglUht  vom  Abendschein, 
Sich  ein  fenriges  liedel." 


THE  THBEE  aiPSISa 


LlHAU. 


«  Once  three  gipsies  did  I  behold ; 
In  a  meadow  they  lay, 
As  my  carriage  heavily  rolled 
Over  the  sandy  way. 

"  In  his  hands,  as  he  sat  alone, 
Fiddle  and  bow  held  one, 
Flaying  an  air  with  fiery  tone, 
In  the  glow  of  the  evening  sun." 

Alfbed  Baskkryills. 

colonel  sinclair— qvam  church — death  op  sinclair — honsi£ijr  le 

capitaine— the    hiohflter — the    hedals— romantic    jjbgend 

antique  mansion— the  kringelen — kind  reception — wars!  wel- 
come—  the  broken   tent-pole — the   reindeer   hunter the 

rudane  fjelde — qipst-looking  woman — more  pish—chiromakcy 
— Esmeralda's  fortune — the  handsome  captain—his   sporting 

ADVENTURE — ^ESMERALDA's    GIFT— OUR     SOIRAB    DANSANTE — GIPSIES* 
GLEE. 

The  next  morning  was  fine,  but  dull.     We  were  up  at 
half.past   1    o'clock,   and    decided  to  try  the   artificial 


QVAM.  175 

minnow.  The  trout  we  had  seen  the  day  previous  served 
up  for  the  captain's  dinner  no  doubt  occasioned  the 
resolution. 

The  Logan  was  close  at  hand.  Esmeralda's  soup  was 
warmed  up  for  frokost.  Our  things  were  afterwards  all 
carried  down  into  the  main  road.  Noah  went  for  the 
donkeys  to  load  them,  and  we  fished  along  the  Logan  to 
Qvam.  How  still  and  quiet  all  appeared  at  Storklevestad, 
Viig,  and  Qvam !  Not  a  soul  stirring  I  As  we  fished 
towards  Qvam,  we  saw  inscribed  on  a  large  stone  on  the 
roadside  near  the  river — 

Her  blev  Skottemes  anfarer 

Geox^e  Sinclair 

Begraven  efterat 

Han  yar  lalden 

ved  Kringelen  den 

26  AugUBt, 

1612* 

Our  fishing  resulted  in  the  loss  of  our  artificial  minnow, 
no  sport,  and  we  put  up  our  tackle.  The  Qvam  church- 
yard on  the  right  of  the  road  was  near  us.  Our  party  had 
not  come  up.  Then  we  strolled  round  the  church  which, 
as  usual,  was  built  of  wood,  with  very  large  porches. 
Flowers  had  been  placed  on  one  grave.  It  is  here  that 
Col.  George  Sinclair  is  buried.  In  1612,  Col.  Sinclair 
landed  on  a  farm  near  Veblungsnoes,  in  Romsdalen,  in 
conunand  of  nine  hundred  Scotch  troops.  They  marched 
towards  Sweden  to  aid  Gustavus  Adolphus  against  Chris- 
tian IV.  King  of  Denmark. 

At  a  hill  called  the  Kringelen,  beyond  Qvam,  near 
Solheim,  the  peasants  rolled  down   large   quantities  of 

•  Here  was  buried  Geoige  Sinclair,  the  leader  of  the  Scotch,  after  having 
faUen  at  Kringelen,  on  the  26th  August,  1612. 


176  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

rocks  on  his  troops,  who  were  either  crushed  to  death, 
drowned  in  the  river  below,  or  killed  by  the  peasants 
who  attacked  them  when  in  disorder.  Only  two  are  said 
to  have  survived. 

We  have  never  seen  any  minute  particulars  of  the 
tragic  end  of  this  military  expedition.  It  is  said  that  a 
young  lady,  hearing  that  one  of  her  own  sex  was  with  the 
Scotch,  sent  her  lover  for  her  protection.  Unfortunately, 
as  he  approached,  Mrs.  Sinclair  mistook  his  object,  and 
shot  him  dead. 

The  other  Scotch  and  Dutch  troops,  who  landed  at 
Thronjhem,  reached  Stockholm,  and  helped  the  Swedish 
King  to  conclude  advantageous  terms  of  peace.  What 
became  of  Mrs.  Sinclair,  we  do  not  know ;  or  where  the 
Scotch  soldiers  were  buried.  The  colonel  seems  to  have 
been  a  bold  and  daring  man.  The  Norwegian  peasants 
gave  their  enemy  a  quiet  resting  place  in  the  pleasant 
churchyard  of  Qvam,  and  his  melancholy  history  is 
another  illustration  of  the  uncertainty  of  human  hope. 

Soon  after  6  o'clock  Noah,  Zachariah,  and  Esmeralda 
came  up  with  the  donkeys.  Noah  was  limping  along 
very  lame.  In  taking  one  of  the  donkeys  to  be  loaded, 
the  animal  slipped  over  a  rock  and  fell  across  his  leg. 
Noah  walked  with  difficulty,  and  was  very  sleepy — in 
fact,  when  we  had  left  Qvam,  and  the  sun  became  warm, 
we  could  scarcely  keep  our  eyes  open  as  we  pushed  on 
along  the  road  as  fast  as  we  could  for  several  miles. 

At  a  turn  of  the  road,  some  distance  from  Qvam,  we 
saw  a  number  of  men  without  uniform  marching  towards 
us.  Zachariah  was  at  first  rather  frightened.  The  men 
advancing  took  up  nearly  the  whole  of  the  road. 

Our  friend.  Monsieur  le  Capitaine,  was  marching  at 


MONSIEUR  LE  CAPITAINE.  177 

tlie  head  of  his  men,  who  were  going  to  their  periodical 
militia  training.  We  were  looking  out  to  see  which  side 
the  road  to  take,  when  Monsieur  le  Capitaine  opened  out 
his  men  right  and  left,  and  we  passed  through  their  centre, 
which  afforded  them  ample  opportunity  of  observing  our 
cavalcade. 

"Bon  jour.  Monsieur  Smith,"  said  the  Captain;  "plea- 
sant journey." 

TVe  also  wished  him  "bon  jour,"  and  with  mutual 
salutations  each  passed  on  our  different  routes. 

They  were  a  very  fine  body  of  men — an  army  of  such 
men,  properly  handled,  need  not  fear  any  other  soldiers  on 
equal  terms.  Had  the  opportunity  permitted,  we  should 
have  enjoyed  a  visit  to  one  of  their  militia  camps. 

It  was  very  warm.  Zachariah  played  his  violin  along 
the  road  in  advance;  Esmeralda  and  Noah  were  very 
sleepy  and  tired,  and  we  were  not  disinclined  for  a  halt. 
For  some  time  we  could  not  meet  with  a  convenient 
resting-place ;  at  last  we  came  to  a  delightful  valley. 
There  was  the  open  macadamised  space  on  the  roadside, 
with  wooden  bench  considerately  placed  for  the  conveni- 
ence  of  travellers.  The  same  acconmiodation  might  with 
advantage  be  adopted  in  England.  Then  there  was  a 
small  space  of  broken  greensward,  sloping  from  the  road, 
where  we  could  light  our  fire.  A  large  bondegaard 
below,  near  the  River  Logan,  gave  us  the  impression  of 
contentment  and  comfort.     It  was  a  charming  valley. 

As  we  came  up  to  the  wooden  seat  we  observed  a 
curious-looking  man,  who  the  gipsies  said  was  some 
travelling  "  Highflyer."  The  man  was  reclining  on  the 
the  open  patch  of  greensward  near  the  seat ;  his  wallet 
was  beside   him,  and   he  was  smoking  his  pipe — who 

N 


178  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

knows  ?  he  was  probably  experiencing  more  enjoyment 
than  the  most  wealthy  millionaire. 

The  donkeys  were  soon  unloaded.  Noah  went  down 
to  get  some  water  at  the  farmhouse,  and  shortly  returned 
with  the  "  vand "  (Nor.,  water).  A  woman  and  a  boy 
brought  up  some  grass  for  the  donkeys,  and  she  after- 
wards oflfered  us  the  use  of  some  rough  ground  above  the 
road  for  the  donkeys  to  graze  in.  The  offer  was  accepted, 
for  the  herbage  was  very  scanty  on  the  roadside.  Our 
water  was  soon  boiled,  and  we  had  tea,  bacon,  and  bread  . 
Taking  out  the  packet  of  tobacco  given  up  by  Noah,  we 
gave  some  to  the  Highflyer.  It  is  not  surprising  that 
Noah  was  reluctant  to  part  with  it.  Printed  on  the  out- 
side of  the  packet  we  observed  the  following — 

Petum  optimum  supter  solem, 
De  beste  Tobac  onder  de  Son ; 
Der  beste  Toback  under  solen 
Af  C.  Andersen, 
Lillehammer. 

The  Highflyer  seemed  much  pleased.  The  sun  was 
exceedingly  warm,  and,  placing  some  rugs  in  the  scanty 
shade  of  some  rocks  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road, 
Esmeralda  fell  asleep.  The  woman  brought  us  some 
milk,  and,  finding  it  impossible  to  write,  we  gave  way  to 
inclination  and  indulged  m  a  good  sleep.  Noah  and 
Zachariah  went  to  the  river  fishing,  and  Zachariah 
caught  four  not  very  large  trout.  Then  we  woke  up  and 
worked  at  our  notes. 

A  young  farmer,  a  fine  young  fellow,  his  wife,  and 
son  and  daughter,  came  up.  The  young  farmer  had  been 
at  our  camp  near  "  Storklevstad  " ;  they  brought  up  fresli 
grass,  and  were  very  attentive.     The  "Hedals"   rose 


ROMANTIC  LEGEND,  179 

above  ns,  with  snow  still  remaining  on  the  higher 
ridges. 

Not  so  very  far  from  this  point,  across  the  mountains, 
is  the  "  Ridderspranget  *'  (the  Knight's  Leap).  Tradition 
says  that  a  knight  of  Valders  wooed  a  young  lady  of  Lom. 
The  friends  did  not  favour  the  lovers'  wish.  The  knight, 
at  last,  mounted  on  a  swift  horse,  carried  the  lady  off, 
and,  heing  closely  pursued  by  the  friends,  jumped  a  wide 
cliasm,  and  escaped  with  the  girl  of  Lom,  for  whom  he 
had  risked  so  much.  The  spot,  which  is  between  two 
lakes,  still  goes  by  the  name  of  the  "  Ridderspranget." 

Esmeralda,  probably  owing  to  the  heat,  did  not  feel 
well.  Before  we  left,  Noah  and  Zachariah  played  for  the 
people  of  the  bondegaard,  who  had  been  so  attentive, 
several  tunes  with  the  violin  and  tambourine.  The  High- 
flyer went  towards  Qvem. 

At  3  o'clock — ^having  presented  the  good  woman 
with  a  mark,  and  the  children  with  three  skillings  each — 
as  they  gave  us  their  kindly  wishes,  we  again  continued 
our  way.  Noah  had  added  four  more  trout  to  our  stock, 
so  that  we  had  now  eight  fish  for  the  evening's  meal. 
We  were  all  very  sleepy,  but  kept  on  with  much  perse- 
verance. Zachariah,  who  rode  on  one  of  the  donkeys, 
fell  asleep  and  his  hat  fell  .off,  and  then  he  dropped  his 
violin  in  the  road,  but  both  were  picked  up.  After  we 
had  passed  Dengarden — so  we  made  out  the  name — 
Noah  was  so  sleepy  that  he  became  a  straggler ;  his  legs 
almost  reftised  to  serve  him,  and  we  at  last  lost  sight  of 
him  at  a  turn,  in  the  road. 

A  very  interesting  house  on  the  roadside  attracted  our 
attention.  We  understood  the  name  was  Nusamberg; 
it  had  the  appearance  of  an  old  mansion.     Though  con- 

K  2 


1 


180  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

structed  of  wood,  its  massive  timbers  gave  it  structural 
solidity  ;  extensive  granaries  and  outbuildings  surrounded 
the  house,  and  one  portion  of  buUdrng  was  surmounted 
by  a  kind  of  cupola  with  a  large  bell.  If  it  had  been  in 
England  we  should  have  taken  it  for  an  old  manor 
house, 

Noah  did  not  overtake  us,  and  we  went  back,  expect- 
ing that  he  had  fallen  asleep  on  the  roadside ;  at  last  we 
saw  him  in  the  distance,  walking  slowly  along,  with  diffi- 
culty getting  one  leg  before  the  other. 

As  we  came  m  sight  of  "  Breden,"  which  stands  near  a 
lake,  our  party  were  at  once  perceived.  A  boat  pushed 
oflf  in  hot  haste  across  the  lake  with  a  number  of  peasants 
to  see  us.  When  we  entered  the  small  village  of  houses 
grouped  on  either  side  the  road,  great  was  the  excite- 
ment People  ran  hastily  up  to  see  our  donkeys ;  a  pony 
in  a  "  stolkjoerre,"  or  light  cart,  turned  restive,  and  occa- 
sioned much  confiision.  Our  donkeys  ran  against  one 
another,  and  our  things  becoming  entangled,  the  packs 
were  nearly  pulled  to  the  ground. 

At  last,  when  we  were  clear  of  the  village,  Noah  and 
Zachariah  were  sent  to  a  landhandelri  *  to  buy  butter  and 
bread.  The  young  man  at  the  shop  had  been  at  our 
camp  at  Qvem.    They  could  only  get  fladbrod  and  butter. 

The  steeps  of  the  Kringelen,  memorable  for  the  destruc- 
tion of  Col.  Sinclair  and  his  soldiers,  were  passed.  The 
spot  had  been  well  selected  by  the  Norwegians.  Then 
we  came  in  sight  of  Sels.  Having  risen  early,  we  were 
all  tired  and  hungry.  At  this  juncture,  seemg  a  woman 
driving  some  cows  from  the  road,  we  asked  to  camp  on 
some  rough  broken  ground  above  the  house.     A  quiet 

*  A  general  shop. 


KIKD  RECEPTION.  181 

spot  was  selected,  where,  undisturbed  by  visitors,  our 
tents  were  pitched.  Looking  down  upon  the  narrow 
valley,  it  was  delightful  to  enjoy  the  repose  of  a  quiet 
evening.  Few  were  permitted  to  come  near  our  tents. 
Our  donkeys  had,  as  usual,  their  admirers,  but  they  were 
few  and  select  The  woman  brought  us  a  bowl  of  milk 
wlulst  we  were  at  tea. 

We  were  up  at  seven  o'clock  next  morning.  After  a 
quiet  breakfast,  Zachariah  caught  four  trout  in  the  river. 
Giving  these  kind,  homely  people  some  music  and  two 
marks,  our  party  left  Sels  in  the  distance. 

The  scenery  during  the  morning  was  very  picturesque, 
and  coming  to  a  portion  of  newly-made  road  we  halted 
in  a  recess  of  broken  ground  at  the  bottom  of  a  wooded 
hill,  near  a  log  cottage.  One  of  our  gipsies  went  to  the 
house  for  water,  and  the  woman  kindly  oflfered  to  boil  it, 
but  this  we  did  not  require. 

As  we  were  taking  our  lunch  we  became  the  subject  of 
much  interest  to  the  road  men  and  some  boys ;  to  some  of 
the  men  we  gave  tobacco.  After  the  meal  our  gipsies 
played  their  music,  whilst  we  lounged,  looking  at  the 
beautiftil  scene  before  us.  The  road  men  appeared  to 
enjoy  themselves  quite  as  much  as  we  did — ^they  sat  on 
the  roadside,  smoking  their  pipes  and  listening. 

It  was  not  long  before  we  were  en  route^  and  being 
still  in  sight  of  the  river  Noah  and  Zachariah  were  sent  to 
fish.  Esmeralda  and  myself  made  the  best  of  the  way 
with  the  donkeys  towards  Laurgaard.  Great  improve- 
ments were  being  made  upon  this  part  of  the  road ;  in 
some  places  the  road  was  diverted  and  the  distance 
shortened — sometimes  we  had  to  change  from  the  old 
road  to  newly  made  portions,  and  then  back  to  the  old 


182  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY.  '       > 

road  not  yet  altered.  At  every  place  the  peasants 
flocked  out  to  see  us.  One  place  we  especially  remember 
as  being  near  a  wild  gorge  leading  to  the  mountains  from 
the  valley.  An  old  man  gave  us  such  a  kindly  hearty 
welcome  to  his  land  that  we  presented  him  with  some 
tobacco. 

lu  passing  a  narrow  part  of  the  old  road  one  of  ouv 
donkeys  ran  against  the  Paru  Rawnee,  and  the  baggage 
becoming  entangled  my  tent  pole  was  broken  through. 
It  was  very  annoying.  At  last  we  came  in  sight  of  the 
Laurgaard.  A  peasant  who  had  walked  with  us  some 
little  distance,  and  who  seemed  desirous  to  aid  us  as 
much  as  possible,  was  asked  if  we  could  find  a  camping- 
ground  on  the  other  side  Laurgaard.     He  shook  his  head. 

We  had  just  passed  some  picturesque  rocks ;  the  river 
Logan  was  on  our  left,  the  rocky  slopes  of  the  mountain 
on  our  right.  Our  peasant  pointed  to  what  appeared-  to 
have  been  an  old  road,  now  disused,  a  short  distance 
above  us  along  the  hill  side.  The  old  roadway  formed 
an  admirable  terrace  of  flat  ground  for  our  tents.  Our 
donkeys  soon  struggled  through  the  bushes  and  broken 
rocks  to  the  spot  we  selected,  and  were  then  unloaded. 
Several  peasants  appeared  at  the  place,  and  also  a  Nor- 
wegian officer.  Our  first  care,  as  the  gipsies  unloaded  our 
things,  was  to  splice  our  tent  pole,  which  we  did  with  a 
flat  piece  of  wood  we  had  found  en  route^  and  some 
waxed  string  caiTied  with  us.  Our  proceedings  were  ob- 
served with  great  interest  as  we  pitched  our  tents.  The 
visitors  increased,  and  we  promised  to  give  them  some 
music  for  dancing  after  we  had  finished  our  tea.  Imme- 
diately afl;er  tea,  as  the  peasants  assembled  at  close  of 
eve,  our  guitar,  violin,  tambourine,  and  castinets  broke 


THJE  BEINDEBB  HUNTER  183 

the  stillness  of  the  Norwegian  valley.  On  this  occasion 
we  had  two  beaux  of  the  village  instead  of  one.  The  old 
road  being  level  was  well  adapted  for  dancing.  There 
were  several  peasant  girls,  whose  quiet  and  modest 
manners  were  very  pleasing.  One  beau  was  a  Ught 
haired  young  man  who  borrowed  a  friend's  shoes  to  dance 
in.  The  other  beau  was  a  slim-slam,  away-with-care 
sort  of  young  fellow,  who  had  the  appearance  of  "un  vrai 
chasseur,"  an  intrepid  reindeer  hunter.  He  was  a  good- 
looking  fellow,  carried  hard  sinew  and  muscle,  well-pro- 
portioned, moderately  tall  and  strongly  knit,  wiry  and 
active,  wore  very  large  capacious  trousers,  and  strong 
Wellington  boots.  •  A  hunting  knife  hung  by  his  side, 
and  a  close-fitting  shirt  and  small  cap  Ughtly  stuck  on  his 
head  completed  his  attire.  He  held  himself  very  erect, 
and  danced  in  a  stiflF,  jerky,  jaunty  style.  We  had  the 
usual  complement  of  children,  in  many  and  various  kinds 
of  tattered  garments.  The  peasants  seemed  to  enjoy 
themselves.  Esmeralda  danced  with  her  brother,  and 
we  also  took  her  for  partner ;  but  the  half-hour  is  ended, 
our  visitors  leave  as  the  rain  conmiences.  We  had 
very  heavy  rain  in  the  night 

Ourself  and  the  gipsies  were  up  at  4  o'clock,  and 
went  fishingi  The  river  Logan  near  our  camp  was  in- 
terspersed with  pools  and  shallows,  and  appeared  very 
likely  m  appearance  for  fish.  The  bridge  at  Laurgaard 
is  said  to  be  1000  Enghsh  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  We  must  confess  that  Noah  and  ourself  returned 
without  fish  to  breakfast.  Directly  the  meal  was  con- 
cluded Noah  and  Zachariah  were  dispatched  to  the  river 
again.  A  fine-looking  old  man  came  to  see  our  tent 
after  breakfast.     He  wore  a  red  cap,  and  said  he  was  a 


184  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

great  fisbennau.  We  found  him  full  of  information. 
His  sseter  was  on  the  Rudane  Fjeld,  where  he  said  there 
were  many  reindeer ;  in  summer  the  weather  was  beauti- 
ful. The  old  man'  came  often  during  the  day,  and  we 
bought  some  trout  from  him,  and  also  from  several 
peasant  boys,  who  immediately  they  caught  a  fish 
brought  it  up  to  our  tents. 

In  the  road  below  we  noticed  a  curious  dark  little 
woman  accompanied  by  a  middle-aged  man,  a  tall  young 
woman  without  shoes  or  stockings,  and  two  young  boys. 
They  carried  their  effects  apparently  for  sleeping  and  cook- 
ing. Directly  they  saw  the  donkeys  they  came  towards 
our  camp.  The  boys  tried  to  touch  our  donkeys,  but 
the  young  woman  held  them  back,  and  one  was  smartly 
cuffed.  When  the  elder  woman  reached  our  tents  we 
at  first  thought  she  was  a  gipsy.  Her  complexion  was  very 
dark,  and  she  had  black  hair ;  she  had  pleasing  manners, 
but  in  person  she  was  very  short,  with  small  hands 
and  feet,  and  a  peculiar  redness  round  the  eyes,  as  if  from 
smoke.  Esmeralda  tried  her  in  Romany,  but  she  could 
not  speak  it.  She  was  very  probably  a  Lap.  The  others 
of  her  party  seemed  to  hold  her  in  great  respect.  She 
carried  a  courier  bag  suspended  to  a  girdle,  exactly  similar 
to  the  one  we  bought  in  the  Valders,  and  of  which  an  en- 
graving is  given  in  this  book.  We  gave  her  some 
brandy  and  the  man  some  tobacco,  upon  which  she 
opened  her  bag,  and  in  the  politest  manner  possible, 
offered  us  two  skillings,  which  we  did  not  accept.  Every 
now  and  then  as  she  looked  at  our  tents  and  then  at  the 
donkeys  grazing  near,  she  smiled  and  bowed  in  an  ectasy 
of  pleasure,  raising  her  hands  often,  saying  "  Nd^  nei!V'  in 
a  sweet  plaintive  voice.     Esmeralda  asked  if  she  told  for- 


CBIROMANCY,  185 

tunes,  and  she  said  yes.  It  is  probable  that  she  did  not 
understand  the  question.  She  offered  to  sell  Esmeralda 
a  ring,  but  she  did  not  require  it.  As  they  left  they 
lingered  again  near  the  donkeys.  The  old  lady  seemed 
in  raptures  with  them.  One  of  the  boys  again  made  a 
sudden  attempt  to  touch  one,  and  was  dragged  away  by 
the  younger  woman  as  if  his  life  was  in  jeopardy. 

They  at  length  left  and  slowly  disappeared  through  the 
rocks  at  a  turn  in  the  road  beyond  the  camp.  Noah 
and  Zachariah  caught  several  fish  during  the  morning. 
The  fish  were  fried  for  dinner  with  the  usual  accompani- 
ment of  tea.  We  scarcely  knew  whether  we  dined 
early  or  late,  both  meals  were  so  much  the  same.  From 
time  to  time  travellers  passing  along  the  road  suddenly 
pulled  up  when  they  saw  our  tents  and  donkeys,  and 
getting  down  slowly  made  their  way  up  to  our  camp. 
The  donkeys  seemed,  as  usual,  to  excite  a  wonderful 
amount  of  interest. 

We  had  finished  our  mid-day's  meal.  Noah  and 
Zachariah  had  gone  to  the  river  to  fish.  Esmeralda  and 
myself  were  sitting  in  our  tents;  the  gipsy  girl  was 
occasionally  rockering  Romany  whilst  we  wrote  our 
notes.  Then  the  thought  occurred  to  her  that  we  should 
tell  her  fortune. 

''  Your  fortune  must  be  a  good  one,"  said  we,  laughing. 

"  Let  me  see  your  hand,  young  woman,  and  your  lines 
of  life." 

We  shall  never  forget  Esmeralda.  She  looked  so 
earnestly  as  we  regarded  attentively  the  lines  of  her  open 
hand.  Then  we  took  her  step  by  step  through  some 
scenes  of  her  supposed  future.  We  did  not  tell  all.  The 
rest  was  reserved  for  another  day.     There  was  a  serious 


186  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

look  on  her  countenance  as  we  ended,  but  reader,  such 
secrets  should  not  be  revealed — say  what  we  will  the 
hand  carries  the  same  language  as  those  thought&l  lines 
on  your  face,  or  the  conformation  of  your  head.  It  is  not 
all  who  can  interpret  them.  Though  we  do  not  believe 
in  chiromancy  and  ghosts,  how  many  in  the  world  do. 
We  do  not  say  such  things  are  impossible;  there  are 
warnings,  forebodings,  and  presentiments  at  times  too 
strong  to  be  doubted.  There  are  curious  facts  noted 
which  cast  singular  light  upon  these  links  between  two 
worlds.  Instances  of  spirit  travel  are  given.  The  open 
pages  of  nature  reveal  strange  things.  Pliny,  Scott, 
Byron,  Johnson,  Wesley,  and  Baxter*,  seem  to  have  been 
imbued  with  some  belief  in  the  supernatural.  We  know 
not  what  it  is  ;  we  call  it  superstition.  When  we  express 
our  unbelief,  somehow  there  is  often  an  inward  conscious- 
ness to  belie  our  words.  Surrounded  by  much  that  is 
false,  there  may  be  some  reality.    We  halt  on  the  thres- 

*  A  work  was  published  by  Baxter,  entitled,  "  The  Certainty  of  the 
Worlds  of  Spirits,  folly  evinced  by  Unquestionable  Histories  of  Appari- 
tions and  Witchcraft,  Operations,  Voices,  etc  Written  for  the  conviction  of 
Sadducees  and  Infidels,  by  Richard  Baxter.  London :  Printed  for  T. 
Farkhurst,  at  the  '  Bible  and  Three  Crowns,'  Cheapside ;  and  by  J.  Sains- 
bury,  at  the  'Eising  Sun,'  over  against  the  Boyal  Exchange.  1691."  An 
ancient  timbered  house,  the  early  residence  of  Richard  Baxter,  may  stiU 
be  seen  at  Eaton  Constantine,  in  Shropshire.  Richard  Baxter  was  bom 
at  Rowton,  in  the  parish  of  High  Ercall,  in  the  county  of  Shropshire, 
12th  November,  1615,  and  received  part  of  his  education  at  Donnington 
Grammar  School,  in  the  same  county,  where  several  distinguished  scholars, 
'including  the  staunch  Royalist,  Dr.  Allestree,  afterwards  Provost  of  Eaton, 
were  also  educated.  Baxter  ministered  successively  at  Bridgnorth,  Kidder- 
minster, and  other  places.  His  mental  activity  for  literary  production 
was  extraordinary.  Twenty  thousand  copies  of  his  '*  Call  to  the  Uncon- 
verted "  were  sold  in  one  year.  Baxter  died  8th  December,  1691,  and  was 
buried  in  Christ  Church.  ^'  Baxter's  House  "  (and  about  100  acres  of  land) 
was  purchased  some  years  since  by  William  Hancocks,  Esq.,  of  Blake's  Hall, 
near  Kidderminster,  a  magistrate  for  the  county  of  Salop. 


SPORTING  ADVENTURE.  187 

hold  of  indecision.  One  thing  is  certain,  there  is  a  dark 
mysterious  veil  across  man's  future  in  this  world.  Will 
it  profit  him  to  raise  its  folds  ?    We  think  not. 

Esmeralda  conmienced  to  tell  our  fortune;  we  were 
interested  to  know  what  she  would  say.  We  cast  our- 
self  on  the  waves  of  fete.  The  gipsy  girl  raised  her  dark 
cjes  from  our  hand  as  she  looked  us  earnestly  in  the  face. 

"  You  are  a  young  gentleman  of  good  connections ; 
many  lands  you  have  seen ;  but,  young  man,  something 
tells  me  you  be  of  a  wavering  disposition." 

We  looked  up,  and  a  Norwegian  peasant  stood  close 
by ;  we  had  not  heard  him  approach.  He  was  at  the 
entrance  of  our  tents  in  puzzled  contemplation  ;  we  lost 
the  remamder  of  our  fortune. 

Not  very  long  afterwards,  we  were  sitting  in  our  tent, 
when  Esmeralda,  who  was  looking  out,  said,  a  "Boro 
Rye's  a  vellin."  We  went  out ;  an  English  ofiBcer  was 
coming  to  our  tents ;  he  was  travelling  from  Throndjhem 
to  Christiania.  His  name  was  one  of  a  family  renowned 
in  Scottish  history.  Our  visitor  was  very  good-looking, 
and  seemed  much  interested  in  our  camp.  Seeing  our 
tents  from  the  road,  he  came  up  to  inspect  them;  a 
heavy  shower  of  rain  coming  on,  he  accepted  our  shelter, 
and  reclined  in  our  tent  with  Esmeralda  and  ourselves. 
The  carriole  driver  sat  at  the  entrance.  Our  visitor 
informed  us  that  a  friend  and  himself  had  been  out  with 
a  pony,  tent  and  provisions,  upon  a  fishmg  expedition, 
on  the  Tana.  It  did  not  appear  that  he  remained  long 
with  his  tent,  for  we  understood  him  that  his  friend  had 
been  unwell  and  they  soon  returned.  The  country  of 
the  Tana  seemed  to  please  him  very  much.  We  gave 
our  visitor  some  results  of  our  practical  experience  in 


188  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

4 

camping,  as  he  sat  waiting  for  the  rain  to  cease ;  in 
truth,  he  seemed  in  no  hurry  to  continue  his  journey. 
One  of  our  gipsy  songs  was  presented  to  him  as  a 
souvenir  of  his  visit;  then  we  purchased  some  trout 
from  the  Skydskarl,  for  one  mark,  eighteen  skillings,  very 
fine  ones  they  were,  and  had  been  caught  in  a  lake. 
Esmeralda  presented  the  captain  with  a  "  pinthom," 
used  to  fasten  the  blankets  of  our  tents.  This  present, 
which  he  told  Esmeralda  he  should  keep,  was  placed 
carefully  in  his  pocket-case.  In  making  the  expedition 
to  the  Tana  he  had  taken  out  a  tent  from  Throndjhem 
with  a  pole  in  the  middle  and  pieces  stretching  out  from 
centre. 

Our  gipsy  tents  were  carefully  inspected,  then    our 
waterproofs,    pockets,    bags,   and    other   things.       The 
method  of  pitching  our  tents  was  explained.     Before  he 
went  he  gave  us  a  bottle  of  brandy  which  he  did  not 
want,  and  promised  to  inquire  if  anything  had  been  heard 
of  our  lost  caps.     His  driver,  we  thought,  was  imder  the 
impression  that  the  captain  would  take  up  his  residence 
with  us.     Noah  came  up  as  our  visitor  was   leaving. 
The  rain  cleared  oflf,  and,  wishing  us  good-by,  he  was 
soon  driving  rapidly  towards  Christiania.     Our  visitors 
continued,  successively,  until  tea  time.     For  our  tea,  we 
had  more  fried  trout.     An  old  man  brought  us  a  quantity 
of  fladbrod   and   butter,    for  which  we  paid  tenpence. 
Wire  was  procured  at  Laurgaard  to  suspend  our  boiling- 
can  and  kettle  over  the  fire.     The  loss  of  our  kettle-prop 
put  us  to  much  inconvenience.     At  eight  o'clock,  the 
peasants,  notwithstanding  the  rain,  came  to  our  camp  for 
dancing ;  fortunately,  the  rain  ceased,  and  they  seemed 
to   enjoy  themselves   very   much.      One  tall,    powerful, 


GIPSIES'  GLEE.  189 

middle-aged  peasant,  who  came  with  our  visitors,  was 
very  fond  of  dancing.  He  was,  apparently,  the  respect- 
able owner  of  a  gaard  in  the  neighbourhood.  Though 
very  anxious  for  Esmeralda  to  dance  with  him,  she  would 
only  dance  with  ourself  or  Noah.  Then  he  asked  us  to 
dance  with  one  of  the  young  peasant  girls,  probably,  a 
daughter,  or  some  relation,  which  we  did.  She  was  the 
best  dancer ;  a  very  good  type  of  the  Norwegian  peasant- 
girl,  tall,  quiet,  modest,  and  good-looking ;  we  found  her 
an  excellent  partner.  Our  beaux  of  the  village  kept  up 
the  dancing  and  the  gipsies  their  music.  "Lend  me 
your  shoes  "  must  have  put  his  friend  to  some  expense 
for  repairs,  and  "  Slim-slam,**  the  reindeer-hunter,  nobly 
did  his  duty.  We  were  almost  bewildered  at  times.  It 
was  hard  work  to  control  the  exuberant  spirits  of  our 
gipsies.  The  amount  of  Romany  chaff  was  something 
extraordinary.  Fortimately,  our  visitors  did  not  under- 
stand it,  nor  do  we  think  the  gipsies  understood  much  of  it 
themselves.  Their  gaiety  knew  no  bounds.  Esmeralda 
once  laughed  loud  enough  to  frighten  the  reindeer  from 
the  Rudane  Fjeld.  She  had  more  than  one  severe  doing, 
as  she  called  it,  during  the  evening. 


CHAPTER  XVn. 

No  lost  of  wealthy  nor  scent  of  distant  war. 
Nor  wisdom's  glory  lures  them  on  afar  ; 
'TJB  not  for  these  the  children  of  the  night 
Have  burst  at  once  on  resklms  of  life  and  light ; 
'Tis  the  dread  curse — ^behind  them  and  before — 
That  goads  them  on  till  time  shall  be  no  more ; 
They  claim  no  thrones— they  only  ask  to  share 
The  common  liberty  of  earth  and  air — 
Ask  but  for  room  to  wander  on  alone, 
Amid  earth's  tribes,  unnoticed  and  unknown. 

DisAir  Staklet's  Oxford  Prize  Poem^  The  (Hpeies, 

aiPSIES'    APPECTION — LAURGAARD    ADIBU— BEAUTIFUL    GORGES — ONWARD 

EVER — Esmeralda's  irish  song — dovre — ^friendly  travellers — 

THE  KRAKBOD— THE  HERR  TOFTE — KING's  VISIT — OUR  NIGHT   OAMP 

NIGHT  DISTURBANCE — KINDNESS  TO  ANIMALS  —  OUR  BBAUTIFri. 
BOUQUET — SNEHiKTTEN  PJELD— D0MBAA8 — COMPORTABLE  SITUATION^ 
— WILD  SCENERY— OPPORTUNE  VISIT— ILLUSORY  HOPE. 

More  than  once  we  were  half-inclined  to  tie  a  loose 
piece  of  rock  to  our  gipsies'  necks  and  throw  them  into 
the  Logan ;  still,  we  had  promised  to  bring  them  back, 
dead  or  alive,  to  their  parents.  Gipsies,  whatever  their 
faults  may  be,  have  boundless  affection  for  their  offspring, 
perhaps  too  much  so.  A  promise  is  a  promise ;  we  kept 
ours.  Our  music  ceased  in  the  valley  of  Laurgaard,  and 
we  wished  our  visitors  all  good-by.  Many  lingered  by 
the  donkeys  as  we  retired  to  our  tent,  and  watched  the 
picturesque  valley  before  us.  The  delightftil  stillness 
seemed  to  give  to  our  musings  a  charm  and   novelty 


LAUBOAABB  ADIEU.  191 

only  experienced  in  tent  life.  Then  we  heard  the  sound 
of  merry  voices  in  the  road  below ;  a  children's  game  ; 
the  peasant  boys  miited  to  keep  the  girls  from  coming 
up  the  bank  to  the  road.  Sometimes  there  were  sharp 
and  vigorous  contests,  and  the  girls,  for  a  time,  had 
almost  taken  the  road  by  storm.  Here  and  there  we 
saw  single-handed  encounters;  then  several  girls,  who 
had  maintained  the  struggle,  would  be  pushed  down,  and 
rolled  over  the  bank  pell-mell  on  one  another.  Now 
and  then  boys  would  be  dragged  from  the  road  and 
swung  in  a  heap  on  the  green  sward.  To  whom  the 
victory,  we  know  not ;  exposure  to  the  open  air  pre- 
disposes to  sleep.  What  a  deep  and  refreshing  sleep 
was  ours  when  all  was  still.  In  the  early  morning, 
within  view  of  Laurgaard  and  its  bridge,  the  tents  of  the 
wanderers,  with  three  donkeys  browsing  near,  might  be 
seen  on  the  hill  side. 

We  were  late  the  next  day,  for  we  did  not  rise  before 
seven  o'clock.  At  eight  o'clock,  we  had  a  good  breakfast 
of  trout ;  they  were  excellent.  The  old  fisherman  with, 
red  cap  came  to  see  us  again,  and  gave  us  some  reindeer 
flesh ;  we  made  him  a  present  of  some  fishing-flies. 

Striking  camp,  with  a  hearty  farewell  to  those  peasants 
who  came  as  we  were  leaving,  we  were  again  en  route. 
Esmeralda,  Noah,  and  Zachariah  were  full  of  spirits,  as 
we  entered  the  beautiful  wild  gorge  beyond  Laurgaard. 
A  man  from  a  saeter  in  the  mountains  followed  us  for 
some  short  distance,  and  we  saw  him  afterwards  sitting 
on  an  eminence,  watching  us  as  we  toiled  up  the  steep 
ascent  of  the  romantic  glen. 

At  Romungaard,  near  Laurgaard,  Colonel  Sinclair 
stayed  the  night  previous  to  his  death  at  the  Kringelen. 


192  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

Tlie  road  also  branches  oif  from  Laurgaard  to  Vaage. 
On  either  side  the  mountain  slopes  were  thickly  wooded 
with  Scotch  fir,  interspersed  with  birch.  We  had  a  long 
ascent  from  Laurgaard,  but  the  scenery  amply  repaid 
us  for  our  toil.*  The  river  foamed  in  the  rocks  below, 
and  at  one  place  Zachariah  tried  his  fly,  but  without 
success.  The  Haalangen  Pjeld,  and  the  Rusten  Fjeld 
bounded  our  route  on  either  side.  We  met  several 
carrioles,  and  some  peasants  followed  us.  At  last,  we 
came  to  a  small  wood  of  alder  bushes,  open  to  the  road. 
On  the  opposite  side  the  valley  we  noticed  a  very  large 
house.  The  donkeys  were  no  sooner  unloaded,  than  a 
tall  young  man  and  several  peasants  came  to  us. 
It  is  not  pleasant  to  have  visitors  pressing  round  when 
you  are  preparing  for  your  bivouac  meal.  Explaining 
that  if  they  would  leave  us  for  half-an-hour  we  would 
give  them  some  music  they  at  once  left.  Our  mid- 
day's meal,  consisting  of  fish,  was  scarcely  finished  when 
our  visitors  returned.  The  tall  young  man  was  a  very 
intelligent  fellow.  The  peasant  who  had  introduced  us 
to  our  partner  the  evening  before  was  there.  We  sang 
our  gipsy  song  with  the  guitar;  Zachariah  and  Noah 
played  for  them;  and  one  of  om'  visitors  also  played 
some  Norwegian  airs.  The  order  was  at  length  given 
to  load ;  Noah  did  so,  with  a  considerable  amount  of 
chaflf  with  his  brother  and  sister.  All  being  ready,  we 
bade  our  visitors  adieu,  who  seemed  disappointed  we 
were  not  going  to  camp  there  for  the  night. 


•  Bayard  Taylor,  in  his  work  called  "  Northern  Travel,"  published  in 
1858,  says  :  '^  Beyond  Laurgaard,  Guldbrandsdal  contracts  to  a  narrow 
gorge,  down  which  the  Logan  roars  in  perpetual  foam.  This  pass  is  caUed 
Eusten ;  and  the  road  here  is  excessively  steep  and  difficult." 


ESMERALDA'8  80N0.  19? 

The  valley  now  became  more  open,  and  we  began 
to  descend  towards  "Dovre."  Tbe  usual  number  of 
peasants  came  at  various  points  on  the  road  to  see  us ; 
sometimes  Zachariah  played  his  violin,  sometimes  Es- 
meralda 'sang.  One  song  was  an  Irish  song;  it  is  a 
curious  specimen  of  song  lore.  Esmeralda  would  some- 
times dance  as  she  sang  the  words  of  the  song ;  we  have 
never  met  Tvith  it  before,  and  therefore  give  the  words. 
The  song  and  the  dance;  and  air,  by  the  gipsy  girl, 
with  all  the  accessories  of  pine  forest,  rising  mountains, 
and  a  wilderness  of  interesting  scenery,  was  very 
effective. 

ESMERALDA'S  SONG. 

<'  Sbola  gang  shangh  gig  a  magala, 
111  set  me  down  on  yondeis  hiU, 
And  there  111  cry  my  fiU  ; 
And  every  tear  8haU-  tarn  a  miU, 
Shula  a  gang  sbaugh  gig  a  magala 
To  my  Uskadina  slawn  slawn. 

Shula  gang  shangh  gig  a  magala  ; 
rU  buy  me  a  petticoat,  and  dye  it  red, 
And  round  this  world  111  beg  my  bread. 
The  lad  I  love  is  far  away, 
Shula  gang  sbaugh  gig  a  magala 
To  my  Uskadina  slawn  slawn 

Shul,  shnl  gang  along  with  me, 

Gkmg  along  with  me,  I*U  gang  along  with  you  ; 

111  buy  you  a  petticoat,  and  dye  it  in  tbe  blue ; 

Sweet  WiUiam  shall  kiss  you  in  the  rue, 

Shula  gang  sbaugh  gig  a  magala 

To  my  Uskadina  slawn  slawn." 

We  passed  "  Broendhaugen,"  having  the  Jetta  Fjeld 
on  our  left  and  St.  Kaven  and  Vesle  Fjeld  on  our  right. 
Two  very  civil  peasants  at  length  joined  our  party.     The 


194  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOIIWAY. 

clouds  seemed  very  wild  and  dark  over  the  mountains  of 
the  Dovre  Fjeld.  At  length  we  crossed  a  bridge  near 
Dovre.  The  loose  blocks  of  water-washed  stones  on 
our  road  towards  the  bridge  added  to  the  wildness  of 
the  evening  scene.  After  some  failures,  we  made  the 
men  understand  that  we  wanted  to  find  a  shop  to  buy 
bread.  When  we  had  passed  the  bridge  a  lame  boy 
came  to  solicit  alms,  and  we  gave  him  two  skillings. 
As  we  approached  the  village  of  Dovre  a  close  carriage 
drove  up,  and  the  donkeys  were  halted  for  it  to  pass. 
The  traveller  also  pulled  up  and  began  leisurely  to 
inspect  the  donkeys  through  the  carriage  window. 
Our  time  was  pressing.  Noah  was  indignant  that  we 
should  be  expected  to  wait  to  satisfy  the  curiosity  of 
every  traveller.  If  they  had  been  ladies  the  case 
might  have  been  diflferent,  but  now  our  party  moved  on 
without  delay. 

The  road  we  had  followed  during  the  day  was  at 
one  time  as  high  as  1800  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  Now  we  had  descended  to  about  1500  feet.  A 
gentleman  drove  past  in  his  four-wheeled  carriage, 
having  apparently  some  of  his  family  with  him.  Stopping 
his  carriage,  he  seemed  much  interested  with  our  party. 
Some  hay  was  given  to  the  donkeys  from  the  stock  he 
had  for  his  own  use.  There  was  something  so  friendly 
in  his  manner,  that  if  he  had  wished  to  gaze  on  the 
donkeys  all  night  they  would  probably  have  remained 
where  they  were.  Comfortable  houses  were  scattered 
here  and  there,  and  we  noticed  posts  and  rails  set  up  in 
the  fields,  which  seemed  to  us  to  have  no  sort  of  use  as 
fences.  At  first  we  thought  they  miist  be  somehow 
connected  with  the  winter's  snows,  as  drift  barriers,  but 


THS  HEER   TOFTE,  195 

we  afterwards  found  that  the  grass  when  cut  is  placed 
on  them  to  dry,  and  in  many  places  we  observed  the 
same  method  of  making  hay. 

The  village  landhandelri,  or  shop,  stood  near  the 
church.  Noah  was  sent  with  money  to  buy  bread,  whilst 
we  went  down  a  short  steep  descent  of  the  road  beyond 
the  churchyard  and  halted.  In  a  very  short  time  a  number 
of  boys  and  children  collected  around  us ;  a  dog  began  to 
bark  at  the  donkeys,  and  a  man  immediately  hit  the  dog 
and  took  him  away.  We  afterwards  gave  the  man  some 
tobacco.  We  could  not  help  remarking  the  kmd  and 
orderly  conduct  of  the  peasant  children. 

The  church,  of  wood,  is  roofed  with  large  slates  sur- 
mounted by  a  steeple  painted  green.  Though,  not  in 
accordance  with  our  idea  of  architectural  taste,  it  was 
immeasurably  superior  to  the  green  pagoda  we  once  saw 
on  the  top  of  the  old  church  of  Gu^rande,  in  Brittany. 
Noah  was  very  successful,  and  bought  nineteen  loves  of 
bread  for  three  marks  nine  skillings.  As  we  left  Dovre, 
Zachariah  was  sent  back  for  eggs,  and  he  jomed  us  soon 
after  with  twenty-one  eggs  in  a  handkerchief,  for  which 
he  had  given  one  mark  nineteen  skillings. 

Our  way  continued  along  a  very  pleasant  road  to 
Toftemoen.  A  number  of  peasant  boys  followed  us,  who 
were,  no  doubt,  anxious  to  see  us  camp.  The  station  of 
Toftemoen  stands  from  the  road,  with  a  large  open  space 
before  it.  A  great  number  of  Norwegian  ponies  were 
loose  near  the  station.  The  house  seems  very  comfort- 
able, with  ample  accommodation.  It  is  the  residence  of 
Herr  Tofte,  a  descendant  of  Harold  Haarfager  (the  Fair- 
haired).  Harold  Haarfager  died  in  933,  and  was  suc- 
ceeded by  his  son,  Hako  the  Good,  so  that  Herr  Tofte 

o  2 


196  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

has  a  splendid  and  royal  ancestry.     It  is  stated  they 
never  marry  out  of  their  own  family. 

In  Mr.  Bennett's  hand-book  it  is  noted  that  the  king 
dined  here  on  his  way  to  be  crowned  at  Throndjhem, 
in  1860,  and  Herr  Tofte  had  sufficient  silver  plate  for 
the  use  of  his  Majesty  and  all  his  retinue. 

A  traveller  accosted  us  near  the  station,  who  was  pro- 
bably one  of  the  passengers  of  the  close  carriage  we  had 
seen  near  Dovre.  He  seemed  anxious  to  know  how  far 
we  were  going.  No  time  was  to  be  lost,  for  it  was  eight 
o'clock.  We  passed  along  the  sandy  road  by  a  piece  of 
rough  broken  ground,  and  then  all  the  peasant  boys 
left  us  when  they  found-  we  did  not  camp  there.  At 
last,  descending  a  short  declivity  of  the  road,  we  came 
to  some  open  greensward  lying  between  the  road  and 
the  river.  A  narrow  patch  of  turf  with  a  stream  running 
through  it.  On  the  opposite  side  the  road  a  thick  wood, 
inclosed  by  a  fence,  made  an  admirable  shelter ;  a  quiet 
retired  place  between  two  hillocks.  As  we  came  to  the 
flat  we  saw  the  trace  of  fires,  and  at  once  unloaded  and 
pitched  our  tents  as  far  fi'om  the  roadside  as  possible, 
and  very  near  to  the  low  river  bank.  It  was  a  romantic 
camp-ground. 

The  view  was  beautiful — a  rocky  island  in  the  river 
formed  the  foreground,  and  beyond  we  gazed  upon  the 
mountains  of  the  Dovre  Fjeld.  The  day's  toil  was  soon 
forgotten  as  the  fire  burnt  brightly  and  night  cast  its 
dark  shadows  on  our  lonely  camp.  Our  eggs  were 
broken  one  by  one  into  a  bowl.  If  stale,  they  were  con- 
signed to  the  river  ;  if  fi:esh,  to  the  fi:ying-pan.  About 
seventeen  out  of  twenty-one  remained  for  the  omelette, 
which  with  bread  formed  our  evening's  meal. 


NIGBT'DISTUBBANCE,  197 

A  jolly,  pleasant  old  man  came  up  whilst  we  were 
camping,  and  taking  a  dram  of  brandy  bowed  and  retired. 
Then  the  donkeys  strayed  and  a  tall  j)easant  came  and 
helped  Zachanah  to  search  for  them.  The  donkeys  were 
found  up  a  lane,  at  some  distance  from  our  camp,  and 
Zachariah  asked  the  man  to  ride  one  of  them  back,  but 
the  peasant  shrunk  from  it  with  alarm,  and  said  some- 
thing which  probably  meant,  "Not  if  I  know  it." 
Zachariah  mounted  on  one  cf  the  donkeys,  drove  the 
other  two  before  him  at  racing  speed,  whilst  the  peasant 
followed  almost  dead  with  laughter.  Zachariah  informed 
us  some  carriers  were  halted  for  the  night  on  the  road- 
side, at  a  short  distance  from  our  camp.  The  name  of 
the  place,  as  far  as  we  could  make  out,  was  Losere. 
We  were  left  undisturbed,  and  in  the  quiet  enjoyment 
of  our  camp  fire,  till  we  retired  to  rest. 

On  the  top  of  the  short  road  ascent,  near  our 
camp,  a  large  gate  led  from  the  road  towards  a 
house  above.  Some  traflBc  seemed  to  be  going  on 
towards  this  place.  About  four  o'clock  in  the  morning 
we  heard  a  heavy  tramp  of  horses'  feet,  apparently  close 
to  our  tent.  Then  there  was  the  sound  of  a  man's 
voice — ^pur-r-r-r!  pur-r-r-r.  It  was  evident  that  the 
animal  fought  shy  of  our  tent  or  the  donkeys.  We 
called  to  Noah,  but  beyond  a  heavy  snort  or  two  we 
had  no  response.  We  went  out  twice  ;  the  second  time 
we  saw  a  man  with  a  pony  going  up  the  opposite 
ascent.  His  pony  still  fought  very  shy  of  one  of  the 
donkeys  grazing  near  the  road.  About  seven  o'clock, 
when  we  were  getting  ready  for  breakfast,  we  saw  a  boy 
driving  a  load  of  wood  towards  the  gate.  The  pony 
just   as  he  came  to  the  gate,  seeing  our  tent  below, 


198  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOBWAY. 

turned  suddenly  round.  We  struck  our  tent,  and  going 
up  found  the  boy  with  the  wood  fastened  on  a  low,  light 
Norwegian  wood-carriage,  overturned  in  a  ditch.  With 
Noah's  assistance  the  pony,  timber,  and  carriage  passed 
without  difficulty,  through  the  gate,  and  we  gave  the 
boy  four  skillings,  which  seemed  to  astonish  him. 

In  Norway  we  particularly  noticed  the  temperate 
manner  with  which  drivers  manage  their  horses.  All  is 
patient  kindness.  The  animals  are  in  consequence  docile 
to  a  degree.  Beyond  the  quiet  pur-r-r-r,  and  a  shake  of 
the  reins,  nothing  is  heard ;  no  coarse  expletives,  no 
brutality  of  treatment,  such  as  we  have  occasionally 
witnessed  in  our  own  country,  unworthy  the  Christian 
and  the  man.  In  England,  necessity  founded  a  society, 
and  passed  a  stringent  Act  of  Parliament,  for  the  pro- 
tection of  dumb  animals,  &c.,  but  in  Norway  it  is 
unnecessary.* 

A  few  peasants  came  up  as  we  were  loading  our  don- 
keys, and  the  gipsies  gave  them  some  music  before  we 
continued  our  journey.  The  soil  now  became  very  sandy, 
and  the  ground  below  the  road  jutted  out  into  large  pro- 
montories towards  the  river's  bank. 

We  were  joined  by  a  travelling  shoemaker  and  his 
companion,  who  evinced  much  curiosity  about  the  boots 
worn  by  our  party.  The  route  now  ascended  far  above 
the  river  Logan,  and  the  view  became  very  wild.  In 
some  Scotch  firs  Noah  and  Zachariah  and  the  shoemaker 
saw  a  squirrel,  which  had  a  narrow  chance  for  its  life ; 
but  to  our  satisfaction  escaped.     The  wild  flowers  were 

•  Captain  Campbell,  in  his  useful  work,  "  How  to  See  Norway,'*  men- 
tions that  a  society  is  now  formed  at  Christiania  for  the  prevention  of 
cruelty  to  animals,  called  **  Foreningen  til  Dyrenes  Beskyttelse." 


8NEH(ETTEN  FJELD.  109 

beautifol.  Esmeralda  plucked  them  as  we  went  along, 
and,  as  usual,  presented  the  Rye  with  a  handsome  bou* 
quet  The  shoemaker  and  his  friend  left  us  at  some 
bondegaard,  and  we  soon  after  reached  Dombaxis.  This  is 
apparently  named  as  Ine  station  in  an  early  edition  of 
Murray.  The  Dombaas  Post  Station  is  a  short  distance 
from  the  junction  of  the  Romsdal  and  Throndjhem  routes- 
The  road  to  Romsdalen  branches  oflF  to  the  left,  and 
that  to  Throndjhem  to  the  right.  Dombaas  appears  to  be 
an  excellent  station.  We,  of  course^  cannot  give  our 
actual  experience ;  but  we  have  no  doubt  most  excellent 
accommodation  would  be  found  there.  We  halted  in  some 
open  ground  of  the  extensive  forest  on  the  opposite  side 
the  road  to  the  station.  What  a  ravishing  scene  met  our 
view,  as  we  sat  down  on  the  mossy  turf,  whilst  the  gipsies 
made  preparations  for  dinner.  What  a  wilderness  of  pine 
forest !  On  our  right,  the  road  we  had  just  turned  from 
continued  over  the  Dovre  Fjeld  to  Throndjhem.  Not  far 
from  us,  on  the  left  of  the  road  to  Thronjhem,  is  the 
Snehoetten  Fjeld,  7714  English  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  The  ascent  to  this  mountain  is  gradual,  and  its 
peaked  summit  is  only  3500  feet.  Some  few  people 
came  to  see  our  donkeys ;  but  they  did  not  disturb  us 
whilst  we  were  preparing  and  taking  our  mid-day's  meal. 
Our  meal  consisted  of  fried  bacon,  one  fish  Zacharia  had 
caught,  and  bread  and  tea.  A  very  intelligent,  pleasant 
young  Norwegian  came  to  us  afi;erwards  and  spoke 
English.  It  is  possible  that  he  was  the  son  of  the  owner 
of  the  station.  He  told  us  where  there  was  good  pasture 
for  the  donkeys;  but  we  were  going  on,  and  did  not 
intend  to  camp  for  the  night.  Yet  we  left  with  regret, 
for  it  was  a  beautiftil  ground  for  our  tents.     Large  forests 


200  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

extended  on  various  sides,  with  excellfent  pasture.  A 
young  ragged  boy,  to  whom  we  gave  some  tobacco  and 
brandy,  came  and  conversed,  whilst  one,  who  was  pro- 
bably the  owner  of  the  station,  stood  in  the  road  above, 
smoking  his  pipe  as  he  contemplated  our  party.  Whilst 
we  wrote  our  notes,  Noah  loaded  the  donkeys,  and  be 
chaffed  his  brother  and  sister  in  a  jumble  of  English, 
Romany,  and  a  few  Norw^egian  words  he  had  now  learnt. 
Two  or  three  respectably  dressed,  quiet,  well-fed  men, 
who  had  come  to  see  us.  were  probably  connected  with 
the  station.  The  gipsies  played  a  few  tunes,  and  then 
we  passed  through  the  forest  across  two  wild,  brawling, 
rapid  streams ;  and,  ascending  the  steep  road  on  the  side 
of  a  picturesque  valley,  we  came  to  some  houses.  We 
were  at  once  followed  by  several  boys ;  one  of  whom  was 
very  intelligent  and  spoke  some  English.  Zachariah  was 
mounted  on  the  packs  of  one  of  the  loaded  donkeys.  The 
boys  evidently  expected  us  to  camp ;  but  at  last,  after 
walking  some  distance,  gave  up  in  despair.  The  road 
now  crossed  the  side  of  a  mountain,  with  no  inclosures. 
Below  us  lay  the  valley  and  the  river.  Finding  we  should 
shortly  come  to  more  houses  and  inclosures,  we  at  once 
decided  to  camp  without  delay  at  the  foot  of  a  rocky 

ft 

slope  covered  with  low  scrub  and  bushes.  As  we  were 
just  unloading  our  donkeys,  a  man  came  in  sight  with  an 
axe  in  one  hand  and  a  piece  of  wood  in  the  other.  The 
sight  of  our  party  soon  stopped  his  progress.  He  looked 
as  if  he  thought  we  were  fairies  or  some  such  visitants  to 
earth.  The  axe  reminded  us  that  our  tent  pole  was  now 
so  broken  as  to  be  almost  useless.  We  beckoned  him  in 
vain.  The  peasant  had  evidently  resolved  not  to  venture 
nearer.     Noah  and  ourself,  taking  the  broken  tent  pole, 


ILLUSORY  JWPE.  201 

went  to  him  and  gave  him  a  dram  of  brandy  to  screw  up 
his  courage.  The  peasant  soon  saw  what  we  wanted, 
and  taking  the  broken  pole  as  a  pattern,  went  off  to  make 
a  new  one. 

As  the  gipsies  lighted  our  fire,  they  noticed  in  the 
valley  far  below  us,  at  the  base  of  the  mountains,  a 
curling  smoke,  which  they  thought  in  the  indistinctness 
of  the  evening  to  be  a  "  gipsies'  camp."  Very  anxious 
indeed  were  we  to  meet  with  a  camp  of  Norwegian  gipsies. 
Ever  on  the  look-out — as  yet  we  had  been  unable  to 
meet  with  any  Romany  tents — the  meeting  of  Enghsh 
gipsies  with  Norwegian  zigeuner,  and  their  greeting  in 
Romany,  would  have  been  a  most  interesting  study.  The 
route  we  were  travelling  was  evidently  too  much  popu- 
lated and  frequented  for  these  wanderers.  Proesten  Sundt 
indeed  says,  "  They  choose  the  most  devious  and  least- 
frequented  roads  or  ways  between  Stavanger  and  Agger- 
huus,  and  northwards  away  to  Throndjhem  and  Fin- 
marken."  Still  there  was  the  chance,  and  we  hoped  as 
we  travelled  northwards  we  should  be  fortunate  enough  to 
meet  some  gipsy  tribe  of  dusky  wanderers  with  their 
tents,  horses,  trappings,  pigs,  and  baggage.  In  this 
instance,  after  watching  for  some  short  time  with  earnest 
attention,  it  was  decided  by  our  gipsies  that  the  smoke 
did  not  issue  from  the  camp  of  any  of  their  people. 


CHAPTER  XVJII. 

From  erery  place  condemn'd  to  roam, 
In  every  place  we  seek  a  home. 
These  branches  form  our  summer  roof, 
By  thick-grown  leaves  made  weather-proof. 
In  shelt'ring  nooks  and  hollow  ways, 
Wc  cheerily  pass  our  winter  days. 
Come,  circle  round  the  gipsies'  fire, 
Come,  circle  round  the  gipsies'  fire  ; 
Our  songs,  our  stories  never  tire. 
Our  songs,  our  stories  never  tire." 

The  Gipfies*  Glee,     Rbevk. 

THE  NEW  TENT  POLE— WHAT  IS  INDIGESTION? — PEASANTS  AT  CAMP — A 
NEW  FRIEND — HOLIAKER  STATION — ^NORWEGIAN  HONESTY  —  LOCSJE 
VAND — ^THE  TBTTERAMENGRY — ^AN  UNSOLVED  MYSTERY — ^THE  OIPSY 
COLLAPSE— GOOD  ADVICE — ^INTEREST  IN  DONKEYS— A  MOUNTAIN  DIS- 
TRICT—NO CHURCH  BELLS — ^THB  BOY's  QUESTIONS- THE  KJOLEN 
FJELDENE. 

The  old  man  presently  brought  a  new  tent  pole,  for 
which  we  paid  sixteen  skillings.  We  had  left  Dombaas 
about  half-past  5  o'clock.  Our  present  camp  was  called 
by  the  people,  "  Losere."  A  few  peasants  came  to  our 
tents,  and  we  must  say  presented  a  starved  and  worn 
appearance.  They  were  a  kind  people,  and  brought  us 
Srewood.  We  had  bread,  butter,  cold  bacon,  and  tea. 
The  peasants  were  told  they  could  have  some  music 
when  our  meal  was  ended.  How  we  enjoyed  the  evening 
scene  when  the  peasants  approached  our  fire !  and  we 
invited   them,  as  usual,   in  our  well  got-up  plirase   in 


WHAT  IS  INDIGESTION.  203 

Norwegian,  "  Ver  so  artig  tage  en  stole  "  (Be  so  good  as 
to  take  a  seat),  pointing  to  the  turf,  which  was  the  only 
seat  we  could  offer  them.  The  moon  rose  upon  the  sum- 
mits and  ranges  of  distant  mountains  beyond  the  valley. 
Its  pale  rays  gleamed  in  the  still  night  on  the  waters  of 
the  Logan.  Nature  was  lovely  in  all  her  beauty.  As 
our  bivouac  fire  glimmered  on  the  peasants'  hard-worn 
countenances,  furrowed  with  lines  of  hardship,  we  could 
observe  the  pleasure  which  our  music  gave  them.  Wild 
though  it  was,  it  seemed  to  suit  time,  place,  and  circum- 
stance. The  vioKn,  tambourine,  castanets,  and  guitar  are 
admirably  adapted  for  the  minstrelsy  of  the  wanderer's 
life.  As  our  music  ended  they  left,  and  we  retired  to 
our  tents.  The  ground  was  high ;  the  night  was  cold ; 
we  had  little  shelter ;  but  we  were  now  habituated  to 
camp  life,  and  did  not  feel  any  inconvenience.  Our  sleep 
was  ever  deep  and  refreshing.  If  any  of  our  party  had 
been  asked,  "What  is  indigestion?"  we  could  not  have 
given  them  any  decisive  answer. 

The  morning  was  fine  and  beautifiil,  as  we  rose  at  7 
o'clock.  From  the  mountain  where  we  had  camped  we 
could  see  Holiaker.  Our  breakfast  consisted  of  tea,  and 
bread  and  butter ;  at  Dombaas  we  had  given  our  gipsies 
citric  acid  and  water ;  it  is  a  substitute  for  vegetables, 
which  we  had  not  been  able  to  procure  since  we  left  the 
Mjosen  Lake.  Zachariah  had  refused  to  take  any  citric 
acid  until  he  reached  Dombaas ;  whether  it  was  firom  want 
of  vegetables  we  could  not  tell,  but  what  with  musketos, 
insects  of  various  kinds,  and  possibly  the  want  of  vege- 
tables, his  skin  was  irritable  to  an  uncomfortable  degree, 
especially  at  night.  This  irritation  of  the  skin  we  have 
known  before  in  camp   life.     A  friend  of  ours  tenting 


204  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

with  US  the  year  before,  had  suffered  very  much  from 
similar  irritation  of  the  skin  not  the  result  of  musketo 
bites ;  sometimes  we  thought  it  was  nettlerash,  but  in  two 
or  three  days  after  our  friend  had  quitted  the  tents  the 
irritation  had  disappeared.  In  Zachariah's  case  the  gipsies 
and  ourself  thought  he  had  been  bitten  by  creas  (gip. 
,  ants)  or  that  musketos  might  have  occasioned  it ;  then  it 
was  assigned  to  want  of  vegetables  or  impurity  of  the  blood. 
Should  any  one  of  our  readers  be  able  to  suggest  the 
cause  and  remedy  we  should  be  much  obliged  for  their 
communication.  In  this  case,  as  the  Cushty  Drabengro  of 
the  party,  we  prescribed  citric  acid,  which  we  carried  in 
crystals,  and  dissolved  in  water.  One  peasant  brought  a 
large  basket  of  hay  for  the  donkeys,  for  which  we  paid  a 
mark.  The  basket  conveniently  fitted  on  the  back  like  a 
knapsack.  Before  we  left  our  camp,  we  thought  it 
might  be  well  to  buy  a  sheep,  for  we  had  not  purchased 
any  meat  since  we  left.  Christiania,  and  it  might  be 
prudent  to  save  our  commissariat. 

We  explained  to  the  peasants  by  aid  of  our  dictionary, 
and  they  seemed  to  understand  our  wishes,  but  whether 
they  were  afterwards  unable  to  procure  the  sheep,  or 
did  not  distinctly  comprehend,  is  doubtful,  for  our  nego- 
tiations were  without  result.  Zachariah  and  Esmeralda 
played  a  few  airs  for  the  peasants  whilst  Noah  loaded 
the  donkeys. 

Soon  after  we  left  our  camp  the  route  lay  between 
enclosures.  No  lack  of  excitement  on  all  sides ;  at  one 
house  a  stout  good-tempered  woman  and  a  dark  good- 
humoured  seafaring-looking  man,  probably  her  husband, 
came  out. 

Finding  we  wished  to  purchase  something  to  eat, 


NOBWEQIAN  HONESTY.  »^6 

he  went   with  us    along    the    road    to    the    Holiaker 
station. 

Whether  he  was  the  master,  or  a  friend  of  the  house 
we  could  not  decide.  In  the  large  clean  kitchen  he 
conversed  with  a  tall,  respectable,  delicate-looking  woman. 
At  first  she  began  to  make  coffee  for  us ;  then  we 
explained  through  the  seafaring  man  we  did  not  want 
coffee,  but  bread,  butter,  and  eggs ;  then  she  commenced 
to  boil  the  water  for  the  eggs.  At  last  we  made  her 
understand  that  what  we  purchased  the  gipsies  would 
take  with  them. 

The  donkeys  were  brought  down  to  the  station  door,  and 
we  bought  a  quantity  of  fladbrod,  twelve  eggs,  some 
potatoes,  5^  lbs.  of  what  appeared  to  be  the  shoulder  of 
very  dry  wasted-looking  mutton,  and  some  salt.  It  was 
proposed  to  have  some  treacle,  but  we  could  not  find  the 
Norwegian  word  in  the  dictionary. 

As  we  put  the  different  things  we  bought  down  in  our 
note  book,  our  seafaring-looking  fiiend  priced  them ; 
an  old  man  came  in  whilst  we  were  there,  and  our  gipsies 
took  the  things  to  the  donkeys.  Whether  we  misunder- 
stood the  weight  of  the  mutton,  we  cannot  tell,  but  we 
gave  him  eight  marks  five  skillings,  though  we  thought  the 
price  rather  high.  Upon  counting  it,  they  honestly  said 
we  had  made  a  mistake,  and  returned  three  marks ;  they 
also,  we  found,  gave  us  the  salt  and  six  eggs  into  our 
bargain ;  many  lands  we  have  travelled,  but  never  have 
we  met  with  a  more  honest  race  of  people  than  the 
Norwegians.  Our  things  being  packed  away  by  the 
gipsies,  we  shook  hands  with  these  honnStes  gens. 

The  idea  occurred  to  us  that  they  took  us  for  a  wan- 
dering artist.  -  Farewell,  honest  people !    For  some  time 


206  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

« 

they  watched  us  from  the  house,  as  we  went  along  the 
road  towards  Holiaker  church. 

On  our  left  we  saw  the  Lake  by  Lcesje,  and  at  last 
came  to  a  shallow  stream  in  a  large  forest  of  Scotch 
firs  open  to  the  road.  The  soil  was  light  and  sandy; 
large  masses  of  moss-covered  rocks  were  scattered 
through  the  forest,  and  here  and  there  we  saw  open 
glades  amongst  the  trees.  To  a  spot  pleasantly 
secluded  from  the  road  the  donkeys  were  driven.  The 
day  being  Saturday,  we  expected  our  Sunday  would  be 
spent  as  a  day  of  quiet  and  repose,  but  it  was  an  illusory 
hope.  The  ground  was  covered  by  a  kind  of  heath 
with  foliage  like  our  boxtree.  We  had  no  sooner 
unpacked,  than  the  gipsies  looked  round  and  two  gorgios 
were  announced.  It  did  not  matter  how  secluded  the 
spot,  in  less  than  two  minutes  one  or  two  Norwegian 
peasants  seemed  to  rise  out  of  the  ground ;  indeed  if  they 
had  been  smaller,  and  had  not  chewed  tobacco,  we  should 
have  taken  them  for  fairies ;  two  peasants  were  now 
gazing  at  our  party. 

The  plaid  bag  was  called  for,  and  they  quaflfed  brandy 
to  Gamle  Norge  and  filled  their  pipes  with  tobacco.  One 
said  something  about  a  better  place,  but  we  were  content 
to  rest  where  we  were  now  that  we  had  unloaded. 

The  stream  flowing  to  the  Lake  on  the  other  side  the 
road  was  conveniently  near.  A  slice  of  fried  ham  and  an 
egg  each  was  consumed,  and  Noah  and  Zachariah  were 
sent  to  the  Lake  to  fish.  When  they  returned  at  eight 
o'clock,  Esmeralda  had  the  tea  ready ;  they  had  caught 
five  trout,  which  were  soon  in  our  tetteramengry  (gip. 
frying-pan)  with  four  eggs.  The  news  had  spread.  The 
peasants  came  in  numbers ;  whilst  Esmeralda  was  fryino- 


AN  UNSOLVED  MYSTERY.  207 

our  fish  our  visitors  earnestly  chewed  and  spit  in  all 
directions  about  our  fire;  some  went  to  the  donkeys, 
some  inspected  our  things,  the  rest  closed  in  upon 
Esmeralda,  who  could  scarcely  complete  her  cookmg. 

We  could  see  indications  of  a  white  squall  on  the 
usually  smiling  countenance  of  our  gipsy  Hohhenengree  ;* 
sometimes  she  shoved  them  right  and  left,  and  said 
something  about  gorgios  getting  in  her  road. 

"Now  then!"  said  Esmeralda  in  a  fume^  "  chiv  the 

Metteramengery,  just  dik  the  gorgios  all  round.    I  can't 

thmk  what  they  all  want  to  see."    It  was  very  excusable, 

our  peasant  friends  had  never  seen  our  donkeys,  or  tents, 

or  gipsies  before,  still  if  they  would  have  left  us  quietly 

whilst  we  were  at  tea  we  should  have  much  preferred  it. 

When  we  were  seated  near  the  fire,  the  peasant  men, 

women,  and  children  closed  round  us ;  it  was  difficult  to 

decide,  as  we  watched  their  countenances,  whether  they 

thought  our  meal  well  or  indiflferently  cooked ;  it  might 

not  have  been  up  to  a  dinner  produced  at  Les  Trois  Fr^res, 

(we  hope  the  Communists  have  spared  it).    Nor  had  we 

champagne  frapp^  but  under  the  circumstances  we  found 

our  tea  from  Phillips's,  King  William  Street,  a  very  good 

substitute.      Esmeralda    was    an    excellent    cuisiniere^ 

especially  when  the  gorgios  gave  her  sufficient  elbow 

room ;  nor  had  we  any  means  of  ascertaining  their  ideas 

as  to  the  luxury  of  the   diet.    This  with  some   other 

matters  must  remain  one  of  the  unsolved  mysteries  of 

this  book.     The  intense  and  solemn   earnestness  with 

which  our  visitors  watched   every  scrap  we   ate  was 

interrupted  by  a  peasant  woman's  child,  who  was  taken 

with  a  cascade  fit,  and  very  neai'  made  an  important 

*  Gip.  housekeeper. 


208  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

addition  to  ZachariaVs  pannikin  of  tea.  This  closed 
rather  abruptly  our  soiree.  Noah  went  to  pitch  the  tents, 
Esmeralda  put  up  the  tea  things,  and  though  rather 
reluctant,  as  she  said,  to  play  for  the  gorgios,  at  our 
request  accompanied  Zachariah  on  the  tambourine.  Our 
visitors  seemed  much  pleased;  Zachariah  was  irrepres- 
sible with  Romany  chafif,  although  I  had  cautioned  him 
to  be  careful  when  we  had  visitors.  The  music  ended, 
eleven  o'clock  came,  no  signs  of  any  one  leaving ;  what 
with  Esmeralda  shouting  from  the  inside  our  tents  at 
those  who  touched  the  outside,  and  Noah  and  Zachariah 
tumbling  with  wild  merriment,  we  were  au  dSsespair, 
until  taking  hold  of  Zachariah,  we  threw  him,  after  a 
brief  tussle,  into  the  tent,  and  caught  him  such  a  box 
that  he  was  effectually  silenced."  There  was  a  gipsy 
collapse.  We  informed  the  visitors  we  wanted  to  go  to 
bed,  and  they  quietly  left,  except  some  few  who  still 
clung  to  the  donkeys  at  some  distance  away. 

We  began  to  think  we  should  end  our  days  as  a  show- 
man, or  the  respectable  manager  of  a  strolling  company 
of  players.  It  was  a  beautiful  moonlight  night,  as  we 
strolled  forth  for  a  few  minutes  before  retiring  to  rest. 
Just  going  to  sleep,  we  heard  Zachariah's  voice,  in  me- 
lancholy and  watery  tone :  "  Mr.  Smith's  tired  of  me," 
whimpered  he;  "next time  he'll  try  and  do  without  me; 
some  people  change.  Mr.  Smith's  changed ;  I  hope  he'll 
get  another  as  will  do  as  well."  We  seized  the  oppor- 
tunity to  explain  his  real  position,  and  his  proper  line  of 
conduct;  the  gipsies  had  received  much  kindness  from 
us,  we  shared  with  them  our  provisions  whatever  we 
had.  Somehow  gipsies,  donkeys,  tents,  and  accessories 
seemed  to  have  become  part  and  parcel  of  our  existence. 


A  MOUNTAIN  DISTRICT,  209 

They  gave  us  a  dreamy  happiness,  as  we  floated  along  by 
mountain,  river,  lake,  and  forest.  The  gipsies*  wild 
energy  never  flagged ;  we  could  pull  through  any  difficulty ; 
wet  and  fine,  storm  and  sunshine,  still  our  tents  found  a 
resting-place  in  the  wild  scenes  of  a  beautiful  and  hos- 
pitable land.  The  gipsies  saw  the  force  of  our  observa- 
tions, and  with  "  cushty  raty  "  to  all,  we  were  soon  in  a 
sound  sleep. 

We  did  not  get  up  very  early ;  it  was  nearly  nine 
o'clock ;  Esmeralda  had  a  slight  cold.  The  morning  was 
very  fine,  and  the  last  three  or  four  days  had  been  very 
warm.  Noah  went  out,  and  found  the  peasants  had 
already  collected,  and  were  increasing  in  numbers.  Noah 
made  tea,  firied  two  excellent  trout  with  four  eggs,  which, 
with  bread  and  fladbrod  and  butter,  formed  our  frokost. 

The  visitors  were  so  numerous  that  we  had  breakfast 
in  our  tent.  Whilst  at  breakfast  a  peasant  would  occa- 
sionally try  to  look  at  us  through  the  opening  we  were 
obliged  to  have  for  ventilation.  We  were  at  last  obliged 
to  speak  rather  sharp  to  those  pressing  against  our  tent, 
and  they  were  more  careful ;  we  had  very  little  fault  to 
find.  We  do  not  believe  they  would  ever  give  inten- 
tional annoyance ;  in  fact,  the  kindness  we  received  on 
all  occasions  throughout  our  wanderings  will  ever  be 
remembered. 

As  the  sun  rose,  our  tents  became  very  warm ;  we 
strolled  out,  dressed  in  our  light  blue  flannel  jacket, 
white  waistcoat,  hght  trousers,  long  Napoleon  riding 
boots,  and  straw  hat,  which  was  the  only  one  we  pos- 
sessed. It  was  a  deliciously  warm  morning;  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  lake  we  could  see  the  Kjolen  Fjeldene 
rising  above  it.     Our  camp  was  in  a  large  forest,  extend- 


210  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

ing  towards  the  Stor  Horungen.  The  Jora  Elv,  which 
we  had  crossed  near  Dombaas,  flows  between  the  Stor 
Horuugen  and  Hundsjo  Fjeldet ;  then  on  its  left  banks 
are  the  mountains  called  "  Sjung  Ho  "  and  the 
**  Tvceraatind,"  and  on  the  right  the  "Mjugsjci  Ho," 
"Skreda  Ho,"  and  beyond  are  the  wilds  of  the 
**  Sneha^tten.  The  Jora  Elv  falls  into  the  Logan  near 
Dombaas.  This  extensive  tract  of  mountain,  forest,  lake, 
and  river  is  as  yet,  we  believe,  little  known  to  anglers. 

We  bought  twelve  eggs  from  a  peasant  woman  for 
twelve  skillings ;  a  boy  brought  six  trout,  which  we  also 
bought  for  twelve  skillings.  We  confess  to  feelings  of 
melancholy  that,  with  three  fly-rods  and  an  immense 
stock  of  flies,  in  a  country  like  Norway,  we  should  so  far 
lower  our  dignity  as  a  sportsman  as  to  buy  trout.  Still 
four  hungry  people  to  be  fed  much  influenced  the  pur- 
chase. Wc  hoped  for  better  things,  which  might  remove 
this  passing  shadow  from*the  annals  of  our  angler's  life. 

It  occurred  to  us  to  go  to  church,  but  there  was  the 
uncertainty  as  to  the  time  the  services  commenced,  and 
whether  there  would  be  any  service  on  that  particular 
Sunday.  In  some  districts  service  is  only  held  on  occa- 
sional Sundays,  as  we  remember  to  have  been  the  case  in 
some  parishes  m  Wales.  The  country  churches  are  built 
of  wood ;  we  only  met  with  one  exception.  No  churcli 
bells  in  the  valley  sounded  over  the  waiters  of  the  lake. 

A  large  number  of  peasants  congregated  round  us  as 
we  sat  down  on  a  rock ;  wherever  we  moved  there  they 
came.  As  we  lounged  about  near  our  tents,  and  looked 
round  at  the  peasants  of  all  sizes  and  ages,  females  with 
children  in  their  arms,  young  girls  and  ragged  boys 
wandering  after  us  through  the  rocky  mazes  of  the  broken 


KJOLEN  FJELDENE.  211 

ground,  like  a  comet's  tail,  but  not  quite  so  luminous,  we 
resigned  ourselves  to  our  fate.  The  peasants  seemed  as 
interested  as  usual,  and  we  conversed  as  well  as  we  could 
with  them.  They  are  a  friendly,  kind  people.  One  boy 
spoke  English  very  fairly,  though  he  had  never  been  in 
England  ;  there  was  an  intelligence  about  him  which 
pleased  us.  Several  questions  were  propounded,  one 
was  whether  we  had  grapes  in  England — if  we  had 
much  fruit — whether  we  could  fish  free — what  kind  of 
winter  we  had  hi  England — ^if  we  had  been  in  France 
and  Germany  ?  The  boy  was  much  astonished  when  we 
told  him  we  had  not  only  been  to  France  and  Germany, 
but  all  round  the  world.  The  boy  was  told,  if  he  would 
come  to  our  camp  in  the  evening,  he  should  have  an 
English  book  as  a  present. 

Notwithstanding  frequent  solicitations  that  we  would 
give  them  some  music,  we  Remained  firm,  and  gave 
our  reasons.  They  asked  if  we  had  any  objection 
to  a  peasant  playing.  They  were  told  to  please  them- 
selves, so  that  it  was  not  close  to  our  tents.  The 
peasant  had  a  large,  powerful,  fine-toned  accordion,  and, 
if  it  had  not  been  Sunday,  we  should  have  managed  a 
pleasant  concert. 

Noah  and  Zachariah  had  leave  of  absence  till  three 
o'clock  ;  they  returned  at  half-past  two  o'clock.  Having 
crossed  the  lake  in  a  boat,  they  had  been  for  a  ramble  on 
the  "  Kjolen  Fjeldene."  A  peasant  boy  had  offered  them 
the  use  of  the  boat  if  we  stayed  a  day  longer.  Our 
dinner  consisted  of  six  fish  and  five  eggs,  fried  in  oil, 
with  black  bread  and  tea.  Though  our  visitors  were  then 
reduced  to  about  twenty-five  persons,  at  three  o'clock 
there  were  again  fresh  arrivals ;  one   peasant   woman 

V  2 


212  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

brought  the  donkeys  fresh  grass.  They  hurried  up  in 
parties,  perspiring  in  the  warm  sun,  inquiring  for  "  den 
asen."  Then  they  hastened  as  fast  as  they  could  over  the 
rocks  to  where  they  were.  Endless  discussions  were 
held  over  them ;  our  poor  donkeys  must  have  been  much 
astonished  at  their  sudden  importance. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


SRBBNAD& 

^7  gipfly-eye*  bright  as  the  itar 
That  sends  its  light  from  hearen  a£u:, 
Will,  with  the  Btnuns  of  thy  guitar. 

This  heart  with  rapture  fill. 
Then,  maiden  fair,  beneath  this  star, 
Ck>me^  tench  with  me  the  light  guitar. 

Thy  brow,  nnmarked  by  lines  of  caie, 
Deck*d  with  locks  of  raren  hair, 
Seems  ever  beautiful  and  fair 

At  moonlight's  stilly  hour. 
What  bliss  !  beside  the  leafy  maie, 
Illumined  by  the  moon's  pale  rays, 
On  thy  sweet  face  to  sit  and  gase, 

Thou  wild,  uncultured  flower. 
Then,  maiden  fair,  beneath  this  star. 
Come,  touch  with  me  the  light  guitar. 

ESMJ:RALI>A     at    the    lake— our    CADEAU — THE    VISITORS — DISAPPOINT- 

]ft£irr AN     ADONIS — THE     SILENT    VISIT— THE      OLD      MILL — ^A     NOR- 

WSaiAH     FOX— THE     PURU     RAWNEE'S     PALL — THE     FOREST     SCENE 

ZACSABIAH's  torment— under  DISCIPLINE — MUSIC  IN  THE  FOREST — 
I>IBTAKT     ADMIRERS— THE     ENGLISH      HUNTER's     OIFT— OUR      GIPSIES 

FISBIKG ^THB    MILITIA    CAMP — SILENT  VISITOR— ORNAMENTAL  FLAD- 

BRC]> — A  FOREST  CONCERT. 

SoMK  of  the  peasants,  especially  women,  were  most 
anxious  to  explore  the  hidden  recesses  of  our  tents, 
but  this  could  not  be  permitted.  Our  gipsies  were 
very  i?vell  conducted,  and  quiet  in  their  demeanour,  as 
befitted  the  day. 


214  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

After  dinner  Esmeralda,  who  had  washed  and  dressed 
herself  in  her  robe  with  silver  buttons,  accompanied  us 
for  a  quiet  stroll  to  the  shores  of  the  lake ;  her  brothers 
were  left  in  charge  of  the  tents.  The  distance  was  not 
very  far.  Seated  on  a  wooded  knoll  above  the  shores  of 
the  lake,  we  watched  its  silvery  waters  and  the  pictu- 
resque outline  of  the  Kjolen  mountain ;  its  patches  of 
snow  near  the  summit  were  not  yet  melted  by  the 
summer's  sun.  How  enjoyable  was  life  in  the  wild  moun- 
tains near  the  smooth  lake  whose  silvered  waters  seem  ever 
smiling ;  all  seemed  in  repose  as  we  breathed  the  pure 
air  of  heaven.  The  lake,  we  understood,  was  called  the 
Logan  Vand.  A  peasant  woman,  at  a  house  near  the 
lake,  asked  us  to  come  in,  both  going  and  returning,  but 
we  ptefen'ed  the  open  air. 

We  returned  to  tea  at  about  seven  o'clock.  A  large 
number  of  peasants  were  scattered  in  all  directions  about 
our  camp  and  round  the  donkeys.  Four  eggs  were 
boiled  for  our  tea,  with  bread  and  butter.  After  tea,  we 
presented  our  friend,  the  boy  who  spoke  English,  with 
"Views  of  Jerusalem  and  its  Environs."  The  boy  read 
a  passage,  vivd  voce,  from  it  in  English  with  great  cor- 
rectness and  good  accent ;  the  present  pleased  him  very 
much,  and  we  were  glad  we  had  thought  of  giving  it  to 
him.  If  we  spoke  to  a  peasant  a  crowd  immediately- 
collected  round  us.  It  appeared  to  disappoint  them  that 
music  was  not  permitted,  but  we  were  quite  firm. 

At  nine  o'clock  we  wished  them  good  night ;  still  they 
remained,  and  a  large  number  kept  wandering  round  our 
tents.  Some  few  lighted  a  fire  of  juniper ;  the  smoke 
blew  towards  our  tents,  and  Noah  rushed  out  with  an 
alpenstock  and  put  it  out. 


.    AN  ADONIS.  215 

The  hum  of  voices  at  length  became  less  distinct,  and 
we  were  thinking  of  retiring  to  rest.  Esmeralda  was 
already  partly  asleep  behind  her  tent  partition,  we  were 
seated  opposite  our  gipsies,  when  another  party  came  up 
from  the  road.  One  was  upwards  of  six  feet  high,  and 
dressed  differently  from  the  peasants'  usual  costume — a 
tall  young  fellow  with  a  very  long  pipe.  The  waterproof 
cover  was  arranged  so  that  the  entrance  to  our  tent  was 
only  about  two  feet  high ;  tho  tall  visitor,  who  seemed  to 
have  been  enjoying  himself,  and  was  rather  unsteady,  lay 
down  on  the  turf,  so  that  he  could  see  us.  At  first  he  said 
to  Noah,  "  Spille  a  little,"  meaning  that  we  should  play. 
Then  he  turned  to  us,  "  You  speak  English  ?  "  But  when 
we  spoke  to  him,  he  said,  "  I  cannot  understand  you." 
Then  he  asked  Noah  if  he  >8poke  Norsk.  Noah's  know- 
ledge of  the  Norsk  language  was  still  very  limited.  Our 
tall  visitor,  whiflSng  his  pipe  in  a  half-fuddled  state,  kept 
saying  in  English,  "  I  have  beautiful  girls,  mony,  mony — 
you  have  beautiful  girls."  We  said,  "  Nei,  nei/'  And  as 
he  said  something  about  "  den  asen,"  we  pointed  in  their 
direction,  and  he  went  off  with  his  friends  to  see  them. 
We  thought  they  were  gone,  when  our  tall  Norwegian 
suddenly  came  back  again,  and  lay  down  on  the  turf. 
After  a  pause  he  said,  "  Spille  a  little ;  "  and  then  said, 
"  I  hear  you  have  beautiful  girl ;  I  should  like  to  see  her. 
I  have  beautiful  girls — mony,  mony."  He  tried  to  pull 
the  curtain  aside,  but  we  prevented  him,  with  "  Nei,  nei." 
In  vain  we  wished  him  good  night ;  still  he  kept  saying 
occasionally,  "  You  have  beautiful  girl,  I  have  heard ;  I 
will  show  you  my  beautifiil  girls — I  have  beautiful  girls, 
mony,  mony."  His  friends,  however,  seemed  anxious  to 
get  him  away,  and  at  last,  with  some  reluctance,  he  left 


216  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

our  tents,  probably  to  join  the  beautiful  girls,  of  which  he 
said  he  had  mony,  mony. 

At  the  last  moment,  before  going  to  bed,  we  strolled 
out  in  the  stillness  of  the  night.  We  were  just  at  the 
moment  standing  in  the  shadow  of  some  firs,  when  we 
observed  the  figure  of  a  man  advancing  noiselessly 
towards  the  tents.  When  he  saw  them,  he  retired,  and 
soon  after  returned,  followed  by  another  man.  We  could 
only  just  discern  the  two  figures  as  they  advanced,  step 
by  step,  cautiously  towards  the  tents.  They  paused. 
Very  probably  they  thought  we  were  all  fast  asleep,  and 
did  not  wish  to  disturb  us.  They  stood  for  some  short 
time  gazing  motionless  at  the  tents,  and  then  retired  as 
quietly  as  they  came. 

At  half-past  five  o'clock  we  were  again  bustling  about. 
More  peasants  came  even  at  that  early  hour.  The  man 
from  the  house  near  the  lake  brought  six  trout,  which  we 
bought  for  six  skillings.  An  old  woman  brought  some 
grass  for  the  donkeys.  One  woman  brought  milk,  but  too 
late  for  breakfast ;  not  being  able  to  carry  it  with  us,  we 
did  not  buy  it  An  old  peasant  woman,  with  a  peasant 
man  in  a  red  cap,  wanted  us  to  play  some  music  for 
them.  They  looked  disappointed,  when  we  said  we  were 
going  off  at  once.  " 

It  commenced  to  rain  when  we  were  packing,  and  we 
were  anxious  to  proceed  on  our  wanderings.  We  turned 
from  our  camp  to  the  road,  and  bade  adieu  to  our  peasant 
friends,  whom  we  left  sitting  in  the  rain,  looking  at  our 
now-deserted  camp. 

Proceeding  up  the  valley,  the  views  were  pleasing. 
The  rain  was  not  heavy.  At  Motterud  a  curious  old  mill 
attracted  our  attention.     Passing  through  the  hamlet  of 


A  NORWEGIAN  FOX,  217 

Moseneden,  as  we  understood  it  to  be,  we  reached  the 
open  forest  just  beyond,  and  halted  on  the  right  of  the 
road.  Our  middags-mad  consisted  of  tea,  fried  fish, 
fladbrod,  and  butter.  Some  peasant  girls  watched  us  at  a 
distance  in  the  forest.  A  jolly,  pleasant  old  man  came 
to  us,  and  a  boy,  with  a  large  hump  on  his  chest  instead 
of  his  back.  The  order  was  given  to  load,  but  no  donkeys 
could  be  found ;  fortunately  a  stream  of  water  between 
two  deep  banks  at  some  distance  gave  us  a  clue  to  the 
direction  they  had  gone. 

After  some  trouble,  and  a  hint  from  the  jolly  peasant, 
the  donkeys  were  found  near  the  hamlet  of  Mosen- 
eden, on  the  borders  of  the  forest,  and  brought 
back  When  Noah  was  loading  the  puru  rawnee  we 
presented  the  jolly  peasant  with  an  oil  bottle  just 
emptied.  The  peasant  seemed  very  pleased  with  his 
sudden  acquisition  of  fortune,  and  showed  it  to  the 
peasant  girls,  who  brought  down  a  Norwegian  fox  for  us 
to  see. 

The  girls  had  the  fox  fastened  by  a  chain.  It  is 
called  a  "  Rcev  *'  in  Norwegian,  and  is  smaller  than  the 
English  fox,  being  rather  lighter  in  colour.  Foxes  are 
very  numerous  in  some  parts  of  Norway.  The  peasant 
did  not  smoke,  but  the  usual  discussion  took  place  about 
the  donkeys. 

At  this  juncture  a  storm  of  rain  came  on,  and  my 
gipsies  disappeared  with  the  baggage  under  the  large 
waterproof.  The  peasant  contented  himself  with  the 
scanty  shelter  of  the  trees  ;  and  we  were  protected  by  our 
light  waterproof  coat.  Whilst  we  conversed  with  the  old 
man,  Noah  now  and  then  put  his  head  out  from  under- 
neath the  waterproof,  and  would  say  "  Blankesko."    The 


218  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

peasant,  looking  round,  could  see  nothing,  and  appeared 
puzzled  to  understand  what  blacking  shoes  had  to  do  with 
his  observations  about  the  donkeys.  Sometimes  it  was 
"  meget  godt,"  or  a  "  Romany*'  word,  or  scrap  of  a  soDg, 
with  smothered  laughter  from  Esmeralda.  We  spoke  to 
Noah  afterwards,  and  he  promised  to  be  more  careful. 
Some  license  we  permitted  among  themselves,  to  exhaust 
their  exuberant  spirits. 

The  rain  ceased.  The  donkeys  were  loaded.  Wishing 
the  peasants  adieu,  with  mutual  salutations,  we  continued 
our  route  through  the  forest.  Scotch  firs,  and  light  sandy 
soil ;  no  enclosures— nothing  but  open  forest.  Here  and 
there,  the  trees  were  scattered  thickly  near  the  road. 
Occasionally  we  came  to  an  open  glade.  Zachariah,  who 
had  gone  on  before,  fell  asleep  on  a  rock  on  the  road- 
side.  As  we  came  ne^u-,  he  suddenly  jumped  up,  and  our 
puru  rawnee,  taking  fright,  shied  across  the  road,  and  fell 
all  fours  under  her  load. 

Of  course  there  was  a  torrent  of  Romany  and  English 
poured  by  Noah  on  his  brother's  devoted  head.  The 
puru  rawnee  was  unloaded,*  and  fortunately  unhurt.  The 
place  where  she  fell  was  soft,  with  loose  sand.  Our 
journey  continued,  and  at  about  half-past  four  o'clock  we 
came  to  some  open  greensward  in  the  forest.  The  road 
made  a  curve  round  it.  At  the  farther  corner,  sloping 
from  the  road,  about  a  hundred  yards  distance,  at  the  foot 
of  a  wooded  bank,  near  a  small  narrow  purling  stream 
of  clear  water,  we  pitched  our  tents. 

A  picturesque  mountain,  with  pointed  summit,  rose 
to  vie.w  above  the  dense  mass  of  forest  trees  which 
intervened  between  our  camp  and  the  Logan.  On  the 
other  side  the  stream,  a  nan'ow  green   mossy   glade, 


ZACHARIAH'S   TORMENT.  219 

fringed  with  thickets,  diverged  to  another  bend  of  the 
main  road  through  the  forest 

Our  tents,  when  pitched,  could  be  seen  from  the  road. 
Zachariah  suflFered  every  kind  of  misery  it  was  possible  to 
imagine  from  irritation  of  the  skin,  resulting  frohi  bites 
of  insects  or  impurity  of  blood — perhaps  both.  His  feet 
were  the  worst.  We  made  him  bathe  his  feet  in  warm 
water  and  oatmeal,  which  relieved  him  very  much.  At 
night,  when  he  was  warm,  the  itching  was  intolerable. 
Instances  of  this  kind  only  experienced  at  night  without 
eniption  or  rash  on  the  skin's  surface,  we  had  met  with 
before  in  camp  life.  Yet  it  does  not  seem  to  be  a  com- 
mon occurrence  in  gipsy  life.  Potatoes  enter  largely 
into  their  diet  in  England.  Noah's  feet  were  slightly 
troubled  with  this  irritation.  When  an  opportunity 
occurred,  we  determined  to  dose  them  all  with  brimstone 
and  treacle. 

Noah  went  to  look  out  for  a  bonde-gaard,  and  pur- 
chased some  fladbrod  for  twelve  skillings,  and  a  pound 
of  butter  for  one  mark.  Just  before  tea,  a  boy  in  a  red 
cap  came  to  our  tents.  The  boy  was  a  fair,  interesting, 
slim  boy,  about  seventeen.  His  features  were  good. 
There  was  a  serious  earnestness  about  him  which  we 
admired.  He  had  a.  small  quantity  of  brandy  to  drink, 
and  he  left.  Then  his  father  and  mother  came,  as  we 
supposed  them  to  be,  to  the  tents,  and  some  other 
people.  They  came  from  the  fanp-house,  where  Noah 
had  bought  the  fladbrod.  The  father  was  a  bearded, 
thickset,  middle-aged  man.  There  was  a  look  of  much 
intelligence  about  him.  Whilst  we  were  taking  our  tea 
and  fladbrod  and  butter,  they  all  sat  on  the  opposite  side 
the  stream  looking  at  us.    Noah  commenced  pitching  our 


220  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

tents  directly  after.  When  Noah  had  put  up  our  tent, 
and  our  things  were  all  arranged  in  it,  they  seemed  much 
astonished.  After  we  had  shown  them  the  arrangements 
of  our  tent  they  were  going  away,  when  we  went  after 
them,  and  said,  if  they  came  back,  we  would  give  them 
some  music.  Noah  and  Zachariah  played  several  airs. 
Esmeralda  began  to  remark  upon  our  visitors'  appear- 
ance ;  but  we  very  sharply  rebuked  her,  and,  murmuring 
something  about  not  being  able  to  say  a  word,  she  retired 
submissively  into  the  privacy  of  the  tents.  Upon  an 
expedition  of  this  kind  it  is  necessary  to  maintain  dis- 
ciphne. 

One  of  our  female  visitors  had  a  child  slung  on  her 
shoulders.  When  they  had  left  in  the  still  hour  of 
closing  evening — so  delicious  in  the  forest — we  sang  two 
songs  to  the  accompaniment  of  the  guitar,  violin,  and 
tambourine. 

Our  health  had  wonderfully  improved.  Continued 
and  incessant  reading  was  now  impossible.  The  mind 
transplanted,  as  it  were,  to  new  fields  of  observation, 
gathered  fresh  tone  and  vigour.  The  physical  senses 
became  quickeniEjd.  The  disturbing  influences  of  the  busy 
world  were  felt  no  longer.  Seated  on  the  turf  near  our 
tents  we  were  busily  engaged  writing  our  notes.  The 
gipsy  girl  came  noiselessly  behind  us — so  quietly  we  did 
not  hear  her,  as  she  came  from  the  tents  in  her  stockings, 
treading  lightly  on  the  green  sward.  Silently  she  gave 
us  a  chuma  (gip.  kiss).  It  was  a  kiss  for  reconciliation. 
We  looked  up  surprised.  A  peasant  boy,  till  now 
unseen,  stood  looking  through  the  bushes  in  amazement. 
He  did  not  appear  to  comprehend  the  scene,  nor  could 
we  give  him  any  explanation.     We  turned,  and  were 


DISTANT  ADMIRERS,  221 

again  alone.  What  could  we  do  ?  We  dismissed  it  as  the 
chimera  of  a  forest  dream.  We  had  forgotten  it ;  yet  it 
is  upon  our  notes,  and  so  it  is  left. 

Several  peasants  were  looking  at  the  donkeys  quite 
late.  We  alone  were  up.  They  afterwards  came  to  our 
tents,  and  conversed  till  we  wished  each  other  good 
night.  The  musketos  continued  their  attacks  during  the 
evening. 

The  morning  was  very  rainy.     About  eight  o'clock 

some  people  came  and  walked  round  our  tents.   We  were 

not  up.     They  walked  away  without  observation.    When 

we  got  up  at  half-past  eight  o'clock,  the  rain  had  partly 

abated.     We  were  not  troubled  with  musketos  in   our 

tent  during  the  night.    Zachariah  was  much  benefited  by 

the  oatmeal  and  water.     A  mark's  worth  of  fladbrod  was 

consumed  for  breakfast ;  this,  with  the  addition  of  butter 

and  tea,  completed  our  meal.  Whilst  we  were  at  breakfast 

the  farmer's  son  came  by  carrying  three  calves'  skins  on 

Ins  back,  accompanied  by  some  peasant  boys.  Nearly  all  the 

Norwegians  caiTy  hunting-knives  by  their  sides.    Another 

boy  afterwards  passed  by  our  tents  with  a  long  pole,  used 

as  a  "fisk-stang,"  or  fishing-rod.     After  breakfast  two 

women  tramps,   or  "highflyers,"  as  the  gipsies  called 

them,  passed  along  the  road.     One  had  a  child  fastened 

on  her  back,  and  was  leading  another  by  the  hand.   They 

seemed  astonished  at  our  tents  and  donkeys,  and  sat  down 

looking  towards  our  camp  for  sotae  time. 

The  weather  being  unsettled,  we  sent  Noah  and 
Zachariah  with  their  fishing-rods  towards  the  Logan. 
They  were  told  to  try  a  lake  in  that  direction  through 
the  forest.  Directly  they  were  gone,  a  man  and  some 
boys  came  to  see  us,  and  the  man  had  some  tobacco.   He 


222  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

possessed  a  pipe  which  he  seemed  to  prize  verj 
much;  the  pipe  had  been  given  him  by  an  English 
gentleman  named  Ferrand,  who  had  been  in  the 
mountains,  reindeer  hunting.  Our  visitor  was  a  fine 
strong  fellow,  and  said  that  the  reindeer  were  numerous 
in  that  part  of  Norway.  The  hunter  was  exceedingly 
pleased  with  the  tents,  as  also  another  man  who  after- 
wards came. 

In  the  course  of  the  morning  a  carriage  and  pair 
passed  along  the  road ;  they  were  evidently  English. 
We  heard  one  young  lady  exclaim,  as  shq  caught  sight 
of  our  camp,  "  What  aii  awfully  comfortable  tent." 
A  lady  in  a  carriole  followed  them.  They  stopped 
a  short  time  in  contemplation  and  then  continued  their 
journey,  which  we  hope  they  enjoyed  as  much  as  we 
did  ours. 

A  young  Norwegian  traveller  and  his  wife  drove  up  in 
a  Stolkjcerre.  They  both  got  down  and  came  to  our 
camp,  and  asked  a  number  of  questions  about  the 
donkeys. 

We  made  a  sketch  of  our  camp  whilst  Esmeralda,  or 
"  daughter,"  as  her  brothers  sometimes  called  her,  went 
up  to  the  "  Bondegaard."  Esmeralda  returned  with 
twenty-three  fladbrod  cakes,  and  eight  extra  ones  given 
as  a  present  by  the  farmer's  wife — a  kind,  homely, 
respectable  woman.  She  was  very  busy  baking,  and 
asked  Esmeralda  in,  and  said  they  should  come  down  for 
some  music  in  the  evening. 

The  rain  cleared  off*,  and  about  half-past  three  Noah 
and  Zachariah  returned.  Noah  had  caught  twenty-one  and 
Zachariah  ten  grayling  and  trout,  some  of  fair  size.  The 
addition  to  our  provisions  was  very  satisfactory.     All  the 


ViaiTORS,  223 

fisli  had  been  caught  in  the  river  Logan ;  some  of  the 

fish  were  immediately  fried,  and  eaten  for  dinner  with 

fladbrod.  Noah  was  the  subject  of  some  amount  of  joking 

about  his  success,  and  we  kept  an  account  of  the  number 

of  tish  he  and  Zachariah  liad  caught  during  the  journey. 

At  half-past  four  o'clock  we  started  them  off  again  to 

the  river.     After  Esmeralda  had  cleared  up  her  things, 

and  put  the  dinner  away,  she  went  up  to  the  **  Bonde- 

gaard  "  for  another  pound  of  butter,  and  a  mark's  worth  of 

flabrod  and  salt.    Whilst  she  was  away  a  militia  soldier  in 

dark  green  uniform  tunic,  and  cap,  came  by  in  a  "  Stolk- 

joerre/'  a  sort  of  light  cart.     When  he   saw  our  tents 

from  the  road,  he  pulled  up.     After  waiting  some  time, 

looking  towards  our  camp,  he  came  down  and  saluted. 

It  appeared  he  had  come  from  the  camp  near  Lilleham- 

mer.     As  one  who  had  had  some  experience  in  camp 

matters  be  appeared  much  interested  in  our  arrangements. 

We  explained  everything  as  well  as  our  knowledge  of 

the  language  permitted.     After  he  had  drunk  to  Gamle 

Norge,  he  returned   to  his  conveyance.     Then  his  wife 

came  down,  and  looked  at  our  tents  ;  she  also  drank  to 

Gamle  Norge,*  and  then  returned,  and  they  continued 

their  journey. 

The. soldier  and  his  wife  seemed  very  quiet  and  respect- 
able people.  Esmeralda  had  only  just  returned  when  down 
came  three  travellers  from  their  carrioles.  Our  visitors 
were  in  light  summer  blouses  and  straw  hats,  and  had 
round  tin  cases  suspended  from  a  strap  over  their 
shoulders  ;  they  were  evidently  men  of  education.  One, 
I  believe,  was  from  Throndjhem,  another  from  Drammen, 

•  The  expression  "  Gamle  Norge  "  (Old  Norway)  is  used  in  the  same 
sense  as  the  saying  '*  Old  England." 


224  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

and  the  third  from  Christiania.  We  answered  their 
questions  about  our  tents,  and  informed  them  they  were 
English  gipsy  tents  (zigeuner).  Our  visitors  were  ap- 
parently going  to  Romsdal  themselves.  As  we  shook 
hands  we  hoped  their  journey  would  be  a  pleasant  one. 
When  they  were  gone  another  traveller  drove  along  the 
road  in  a  carriole,  and  came  down.  He  was  dressed  in  a 
white  round-crowned  hat,  black  surtout  coat,  and  pos- 
sessed a  German  silver  watch-chain.  He  wandered  about 
our  tents ;  we  could  not  make  much  of  him  ;  whatever 
we  said  scarcely  produced  a  word,  and  we  at  last  left 
him  to  contmue  our  writing.  Then  he  came  and  looked 
over  our  notes  as  we  wrote — a  breach  of  good  manners 
which  occasioned  us  to  shut  our  book.  He  then  walked 
away  to  our  camp  spade,  scanned  it  very  minutely,  and 
left. 

The  farmers*  wife  came  down  to  our  camp  with  her 
three  children,  and  made  us  a  present  of  some  fladbrod  and 
milk.  The  fladbrod  we  had  from  this  farm  was  the  best 
we  met  with  in  Norway.  They  made  three  kinds :  one 
kind  of  fladbrod  was  very  thin,  and  stamped  with  curious 
tracery  that  made  us  regret  its  demolition  ;  so  much  did 
the  ornamental  fladbrod  excite  our  admiration  that  we 
managed  with  much  care  to  bring  back  one  specimen  to 
England.  A  representation  of  it  is  now  given,  together 
with  an  ornamental  Norwegian  box-lid  which  we  after- 
wards found  on  the  shores  of  the  Lille  Mjosen.  We  trust 
the  fidelity  of  the  engraving  will  be  recognised  by  the 
farmer's  wife  if  she  ever  sees  this  book.  We  told  her  our 
music  would  commence  at  nine  o'clock. 

After  she  had  left,  an  old  peasant  with  a  round  cap  came, 
and  we  showed  him  our  tents  and  donkeys.     He  seemed 


OBNAMENTAL  FlAItBROD.  8U 

in  raptures  nvith  the  donkeys,  and  kept  exclaiming  Peen 
gioere !  Peeu  gicere ! ! — meaning  very  beautiful.  This 
was  a  common  expreesion  of  the  peasants  as  they  lifted 
their  bands  and  expressed  their  admiration  of  our  donkeye. 
As  far  as  we  could  make  out  we  were  near  "  Loesjesko- 
gen,"  and  the  station  of  "Lesje  Vcerk."  On  our  right 
are  the  mountains  of  the  "  Stor  Ha,",  and  the  "  Soeter 
Fjeld."  Across  the  Logan  are  the  Toever  Fjeld, 
Hyrion  Fjeld,  and  the  Skarvehoerne.  We  ahould  think 
this  would  be  a  good  position  for  fishing,  and  reindeer 
hunting,  though  we  scarcely  think  the  reindeer  hunting 
of  these  parts  is  so  good  as  formerly,  and  a  sportsman 
must  seek  the  wilder  recesses  of  the  mountains. 


Our  gipsies,  Noah  and  Zachariah,  returned.  Noah  had 
canght  four  trout,  and  Zachariah  one.  Although  cautioned 
specially,  Noah  had  been  wading,  and  his  feet  were  very 
wet.  Some  of  our  trout  were  fried  for  tea.  Three  men 
and  a  woman  came  down  to  the  stream,  and  watched  with 


226  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

interest  our  method  of  cooking.  After  tea  we  gave  our 
visitors  some  music — ^guitar,  violin,  and  tambourine.  It 
was  a  very  damp  evening,  and  few  visitors  came.  At 
last  Zachariali  broke  a  violin-string,  and  the  rain  com- 
mencing, ended  our  concert. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

*'  There  was  a  pfefn  tent,  cloae  beside  me,  and  a  party  of  about  ten 
of  this  wandering  tribe  were  seated  aronnd  a  wood  fire,  which  habit 
seemed  to  make  them  approach  closely  to,  whether  it  was  cold  or  hot 
weather." 

S^iior  JuAH  Di  Yma,  the  Spanish  Minstrel  of  1828-9.* 

iOAH  irSWKLL — THE  TINE — NEW  SCENES — THE  LEPER — HASTT  DEPAR- 
TURE— LESJEVOERKS  YAND — WELL  MET — AGREEABLE  WANDERERS — 
SPECIALTY  OF  TRAVEL— DELICIOUS  TROUT — LAKE  SCENERY — NOR- 
WEGLAK  POSTMAN  —  NIQHT  VISITORS  —  MORE  TOURISTS  —  MOLMEN 
CHURCH. 

Immediately  alter  our  music  had  ceased,  Noah  was 
taken  ill  with  severe  rheumatism  resulting  from  getting 
wet.  Our  services  as  the  "  Cushty  Drabengro."  (Gip., 
"good  doctor")  of  the  party  were  in  requisition.  He  was 
sent  to  lie  down  in  the  tents,  and  we  rubbed  his' back  and 
body  well  with  brandy,  giving  him  a  stiff  glass  of  brandy- 
and-water  to  drink.  All  had  retired  to  rest,  but  ourself. 
Hearing  voices  near  our  donkeys,  we  went  up  and  found 

*  SenoT  Juan  de  Vega  is  the  name  assnmed  by  a  young  English  gentle- 
man of  noble  family,  who  wandeied  through  England,  Wales,  Ireland,  and 
Scotland  with  hia  guitar,  in  the  character  of  a  Spanish  minstrel,  and  who 
uot  only  entirely  supported  himself  during  his  wanderings,  by  his  minstrelsy, 
but  realised  a  surplus  of  £b^,  which  he  charitably  presented  to  the  com- 
mittee of  Spanifih  officers,  for  the  relief  of  the  refugees,  then  lately  arrived 
from  Portugal  His  work,  entitled  the  "  Spanish  Minstrel's  Sketch  Book," 
in  two  volumes,  containing  a  record  of  his  minstrel  wanderings,  vras  pub- 
lished for  the  author  by  Simkins  and  Marshall,  1832. 

<)  2 


228  TENT   LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

a  number  of  peasants  and  peasant  girls  near  them.  We 
had  an  idea  that  they  had  been  teasing  them.  Taking 
the  peasants  down  to  our  tents  they  looked  romid  our 
camp,  and  when  we  wished  them  good-night  they  left. 
It  rained  heavily  as  we  went  to  sleep. 

Much  rain  had  fallen  in  the  night.  We  looked  out 
about  seven  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  13th  of  July  ;  the 
rain  had  ceased,  but  misty  clouds  gathered  thickly  on  the 
mountains.  A  fire  was  lighted,  and  Noah  was  better, 
and  we  made  him  rub  some  of  our  bruise  mixture  on  his 
knee. 

Noah  promised  never  to  go  into  the  water  again.  As 
we  were  getting  our  breakfast,  the  farmer's  son  passed 
with  a  wooden  bottle  of  milk  and  a  wooden  "  Tine." 
This  word  is  pronounced  **  Teena,"  It  is  a  small  wooden 
oblong  box  with  a  slide  lid  used  for  carrying  provisions. 
A  box  of  this  kind  is  in  common  use  all  over  Norway. 
Some  of  them  are  curiously  ornamented,  according  to  the 
fancy  of  the  possessor.  For  Frokost  we  had  fried  trout, 
fladbrod  and  butter,  and  tea.  Two  women  came  to  our 
camp  ;  one  wore  men's  Wellington  boots,  and  they  were 
both  knitting. 

Whilst  Noah  was  packing  up,  he  said  he  dreamed  we 
lived  in  a  beautiful  wooden  house,  and  were  going  to  the 
East  Indies.  The  gipsies  dreamt  very  often  of  their 
Romany  Rye — sometimes  Noah,  sometimes  Esmeralda, 
and  sometimes  Zachariah.  It  was  impossible  to  leave 
such  a  beautiful  camping-ground  without  regret.  Whilst 
we  were  getting  our  things  together  three  young  tourists, 
carrying  their  knapsacks,  came  to  our  camp  ;  they  were 
very  intelligent,  agreeable  companions.  One  of  them  said 
his  father  lived  at  Veblungsnoes.     They  lefl  before  the 


NEJr  SCENES,  229 

gipsies  had  loaded  our  donkeys.  The  weather  now  cleared 
up,  and  we  were  soon  en  route.  As  we  afterwards 
passed  "  Lesje,  Jemvoerk ''  (ironworks),  we  saw  the  three 
tourists  at  the  station.  Mr.  Bennett,  in  his  handbook, 
says  it  is  a  tolerable  inn  kept  by  civil  people.  Our  road 
lay  through  a  pleasing  diversity  of  lake,  mountain,  and 
pine  forest.  The  tourists  soon  afterwards  overtook  us  ; 
one  knew  something  of  French,  and  we  were  able  to  con- 
verse more  at  ease.  As  we  passed  a  house  on  the  road- 
side, we  observed  our  silent  visitor  in  black  surtout  coat, 
and  German  silver  watch  chain,  standing  outside  immo- 
bile with  all  his  schoolboys.  He  was  a  schoolmaster. 
They  seemed  as  a  guard  just  turned  out,  and  not  a  sound 
was  heard  as  we  passed.  The  peasants  evinced  the 
usual  curiosity.  One  old  Woman  who  was  knitting  ex- 
hibited great  signs  of  pleasure.  One  of  our  tourists  said 
she  was  in  an  "  extasy.''  We  had  the  donkeys,  much  to 
Noah's  chagrin,  stopped  for  her  inspection.  The  usual 
exclamation  "Peen  gioere!"  was  marked  with  much 
emphasis.  Our  tourists  had  gone  on.  The  old  lady  followed 
along  the  road.  As  we  went  down  a  short  descent  to 
a  bridge,  we  noticed  a  beautiful  level  camping-ground 
along  the  brook-side,  sheltered  by  a  few  bushes,  at 
a  convenient  distance  from  the  road. 

The  camping-ground  was  all  we  could  desire ;  saying, 
"  We  will  camp  here  for  to-night,"  the  word  was  given 
to  halt.  The  donkeys  were  driven  down  to  the  brook- 
side.  The  old  lady,  who  had  been  joined  by  three  boys, 
still  walked  after  us.  The  gipsies  were  so  busy  unload- 
ing that  they  did  not  pay  much  attention  to  our  visitors. 

As  we  suddenly  looked  round  we  were  astonished  at 
the  appearance  of  one  boy  about  sixteen ;  his  face  was 


23C)  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOBWAY, 

completely  eaten  up  with  a  kind  of  leprosy  (spedalskhed) 
frightful  to  see.  The  boy  wore  a  cross-belt,  and  carried 
a  knife.  He  withdrew  behind  some  bushes  close  by, 
perhaps  to  screen  himself  from  observation,  when  he 
saw  the  countenances  of  ourself  and  gipsies — we  had  only 
had  one  glance — it  was  quite  enough.  Esmeralda  said 
she  should  never  forget  it.  It  was  quickly  decided  that  it 
would  be  impossible  to  eat  anything  in  comfort  whilst  the 
unfortunate  boy  was  near  our  camp.  One  donkey  was 
already  nearly  unpacked,  but  we  did  not  see  why  we 
should  be  troubled  with  the  vision  of  the  afflicted  leper 
whilst  we  could  move  to  a  more  favoured  spot.  Order- 
ing the  donkeys  to  be  reloaded,  which  my  gipsies  obeyed 
with  wonderful  alacrity,  we  were  soon  again  en  route. 

The  old  lady  was  talking  to  a  man  driving  a  cart, 
apparently  full  of  school  children.  He  had  pulled  up  at 
the  bridge.  They  were  evidently  discussing  a  variety  of 
matters  relating  to  us.  Without  looking  behind,  we  left 
the  poor  boy  and  his  companions  in  complete  possession 
of  our  intended  camp. 

At  a  stream  of  water  we  overtook  our  three  tourists, 
lying  down.  Two  had  their  shoes  and  stockings  oflf,  and 
were  bathing  their  feet.  Telling  them  we  should  push  on 
till  two  o'clock,  we  left  them. 

Following  the  main  road  in  sight  of  the  "  Lesje  Voerks 
Vand,"  a  lake  seven  EngUsh  miles  long,  and  2,050  feet 
above  the  sea-level,  we  reached  a  stream  flowing  into  the 
lake.  Descending  to  the  bridge,  we  crossed  the  stream 
which  flowed  down  a  sheltered  gully.  There  was  a  con- 
venient camping-ground  on  the  brook-side  below  the 
bridge  and  near  to  the  lake.  A  few  bushes  between  our 
camjp  and  the  lake  made  the  spot  more  sheltered.     We 


WELL  MET.  231 

liad  just    unloaded   when   our  three  tourists  came   up. 

Before   they    left  we  presented   each  with   one  of  our 

gipsy  songs.     Zachariah  in  a  very  short  time  added  a 

beautiful  pink  trout  from  the  lake  to  our  broiled  ham, 

fladbrod  and  tea,  for  dinner.     Up  to  this  time  Noah  had 

caught    thirty-seven   trout,     and   Zachariah  thirty-four. 

Taking  Noah  with  us  after  dinner,  we  went  through  a 

wild  tract  of  moorland,  thinly  treed,  along  the  lake  for 

about  three  ElngUsh  miles.     After  crossing   some  wild 

streams,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  wooden  church  and  the 

station  of  "  Molmen,"  which  stands  a  short  distance  from 

the  road.      Noah  went  down  to  the  station,  while  we 

lounged  by  the  side  of  a  stream  near  the  road,  and  wrote 

up  our  notes. 

"  Molmen  in  the  distance,"  we  mentally  observed.  Out 
came  pencil  and  book.  There  was  a  charm  in  one's 
existence  as  we  seated  ourself  on  the  turf  which  formed 
the  bank  of  the  clear  pure  stream.  What  mingled  hues 
of  delicious  colouring  caught  the  eye  as  we  gazed  on  the 
various  grasses,  wild  flowers  and  heath  which  formed  the 
nature  painting  of  the  scene  about  us.  The  mind  had  not 
long  been  engaged  in  quiet  contemplation,  when  we  ob- 
served a  gentleman  in  a  straw  hat  walking  along  the  road 
drawing  after  him  a  light  kind  of  trjick.  Underneath  the 
framework,  on  a  suspended  netting,  we  noticed  his  knap- 
sack, sac  de  nuit^  and  other  articles  du  voyage  for  the 
use  of  his  family.  The  gentleman  and  his  light  truck 
was  followed  by  his  family.  Three  good-looking  grown- 
up daughters,  and  their  friend  or  govemxmte ;  two 
young  boys  in  long  Alpine  boots,  hoUand  trousers  and 
check  shirts,  and  a  fine  large  black  dog  followed  after.  It 
was  a  case  of  nomad  meet  nomad,  wanderer  meet  wan- 


232  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

derer,  each  foUowiug  his  own  idea,  and  each,  I  believe, 
thoroughly  enjoying  his  own  will  and  fancy.  How  could 
we  be  mistaken,  there  was  a  joyous  expression  of  coan- 
tenance.  One  rapid  glance  was  sufficient.  They  were 
happy  in  their  way  of  travel.  Far  happier  than  very 
many  we  met  in  their  carrioles  or  stolkjoerrer  as  we 
journeyed  up  the  "  Gudbransdalen."  An  interest  quickly 
gathered  round  the  travellers  as  they  passed,  which 
riveted  our  attention.  They  were  gone,  we  were  left, 
yet  we  seemed  to  regret  that  we  had  not  somehow  made 
their  acquaintance.  Pencil  in  hand  we  still  hngered  by 
the  stream  when  we  saw  the  tall  form  of  our  gipsy  Noah 
coming  along  the  road.  One  mark's  worth  of  fladbrod  and 
ten  eggs  for  18  skillings  had  been  purchased,  Noah  said 
the  gentleman  who  had  just  passed  had  seen  him  at  the 
station,  and  finding  who  we  were,  had  asked  about  ourcamp 
and  vnshed  to  see  it.  Noah  told  him  we  were  staying  in 
sight  of  the  road  near  to  the  lake.  As  we  soon  after  re- 
turned towards  our  camp,  the  gentleman  and  his  family 
were  resting  near  a  house  on  the  road-side.  Very  shortly 
after  we  had  reached  our  tents,  we  heard  their  voices  in 
song,  as  they  walked  along  the  road.  We  listened  with 
pleasure  to  some  pretty  Norwegian  air  which  came  to  us 
on  the  wind.  Very  soon  they  reached  the  bridge.  Wc 
both  saluted  as  we  went  towards  them  from  the  brook- 
side.  We  were  two  wanderers  happily  met.  Each  fol- 
lowing his  own  speciality  of  idea.  Each  apparently  suc- 
cessful in  result.  Our  baggage  was  heaped  on  the  ground 
as  they  came  a  short  distance  from  the  road  to  our  camp. 
Our  visitors  conversed  in  Norsk,  French,  and  English. 
He  asked  if  it  was  not  very  cold  and  damp  on  the  ground. 
They  saw  our  donkeys,  and  our  various  things,  including 


SPECIALITY  OF  TRAVEL.  S33 

the  gaitar  and  tambourines.  The  gentleman  was  a  Mr. 
B.,  of  good  position  in  Norway,  who  had  landed  from  the 
steamer  at  Veblungsna^s,  with  his  light  truck  and  family, 
and  had  travelled  through  Romsdalen  when  we  met. 
At  parting  we  presented  one  of  the  young  ladies  with  our 
gipsy  song,  and  with  mutual  good  wishes  we  watched 
them  ascend  from  the  bridge  of  our  retired  gully,  and 
disappear  over  the  top  of  the  abrupt  ascent. 

The  time  was  half-past  five ;  the  small  amount  of  suc- 
cess we  had  had  fishing  during  our  travels  was  not  cal- 
culated to  raise  our  reputation  with  the  gipsies  as  an 
expert  angler.  Up  to  this  time  we  had  not  caught  a 
fish.  Noah  had  caught  fish  ;  Zachariah  had  caught  fish. 
Esmeralda  had  cooked  them,  and  we  had  only  eaten 
them ;  something  must  be  done.  Metteramengry*  (Gip., 
*'tea")  was  postponed.  Noah  was  told  off  to  accompany 
us.  The  fishing-rods  and  tackle  were  ready,  and  we  were 
soon  on  the  light  gravelly  shore  of  the  charming  lake. 
It  was  all  that  could  be  desired  for  fishing,  yet  we  did  not 
for  some  short  time  get  a  rise. 

Ah !  what !  a  fine  trout  heavily  fighting ;  no  landing- 
net,  but  he  is  safely  landed,  just  one  foot  long.  The  light 
evening  breeze  caused  a  ripple  on  the  surface  of  the  lake, 
another  rise  and  another  trout  hooked.  Our  tackle  was 
light,  and  just  as  we  had  him  at  the  shore  he  broke 
the  fly.  It  was  but  the  glance  of  an  instant  as  we  saw 
him  steady  himself  in  the  water.  At  once  we  were  in 
the  lake,  and  threw  him  on  the  shore  with  both  hands. 
The  trout  was  caught,  and  equalled  the  first  in  size. 

How  lovely  the  gleams  of  evening  sun  upon  the  lake. 
The  romantic  islets,  and  the  rising  mountains  from  the 

•  In  Frendi  gipsy  pronounced  "  Mutramangri.*' 


234  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

opposite  shore.  Again  we  have  another  trout  hooked ; 
this  time  it  is  a  very  fine  one.  Steadily  and  cahnly  we 
handled  a  difficult  adversary,  and  landed  our  trout  with- 
out a  landing-net  on  the  lake  shore.  The  trout  measured 
one  foot  four  inches.  Noah,  who  had  caught  nothing, 
was  astonished,  and  soon  after  we  returned  to  our  camp 
at  seven  o'clock.  Esmeralda  and  Zachariah  had  our  tea 
ready,  and  the  largest  trout  was  soon  in  the  fiying-pau. 
Pink  as  salmon  the  trout  eat  with  a  delicious  flavour,  and 
was  soon  consumed  with  our  fladbriid. 

After  tea  the  postman  pulled  up  at  the  bridge.  We 
had  seen  him  before,  and  some  men  came  up  who  ap- 
peared to  have  been  surveying,  Zachariah  then  played 
his  violin,  and  Esmeralda  her  tambourine,  and  Noah  put 
up  the  tents  whilst  we  lounged  on  the  turf,  and  the  men 
gazed  at  us  fi-om  the  road.  When  our  tent  was  up  we 
took  Esmeralda's  tambourine,  and  she  went  to  arrange 
our  things  for  the  night.  The  peasants  left  when  the 
music  ceased.  It  is  not  so  easy  to  play  the  tambourine. 
Much  suppleness  of  the  hand  is  required.  The  exercise 
is  excellent  for  the  arms  and  fingers.  The  roulades  and 
the  burr  of  the  jingles  with  the  tips  of  the  fingers  re- 
quire practice.  Noah  gave  us  a  lesson  when  our  visitors 
were  gone.  Then  we  had  more  peasants.  One  woman 
we  imagined  wished  to  know  if  we  wanted  cofiee,  and 
did  not  seem  to  think  we  understood  clearly  the  luxury 
she  proposed.  She  went  to  each  in  turn,  and  at  last 
gave  us  up  in  despair.  The  peasants  who  came  to  see 
us  seemed  hard  driven  for  an  existence,  their  clothes  were 
patched  and  mended,  and  their  faces  expressed  endurance 
and  hard  life.  Noah,  who  was  much  better,  had  a  glass 
of  brandy-and- water  before  retiring  to  sleep.      After  our 


NIQHT  VISITORS.  235 

party  were  at  rest  for  the  night  we  heard  the  voices  of 
women,  and  went  out  of  our  tent  It  rained  hard ;  the 
women  were  at  the  top  of  the  ascent  by  the  bridge,  look- 
mg  at  our  tents.  One  had  an  umbrelhi.  The  sound  of 
talking  was  very  distmct  for  some  time  after  wc  had  gone 
to  bed. 

The  night  was  wet,  and  the  morning  damp  and 
drizzly.  We  were  up  between  seven  and  eight  o'clock, 
and  went  fishing  in  the  lake  before  breakfast,  where  we 
caught  another  trout  a  foot  long.  The  breeze  from  the 
lake  had  given  us  an  excellent  appetite  when  we  re- 
turned, and  we  found  Esmeralda  had  cooked  the  two  large 
trout  of  yesterday  for  breakfisist  \vith  four  eggs.  The  re- 
putation of  the  Eomany  Rye  as  a  fisherman  after  catching 
four  feet  four  inches  of  trout  from  the  lake  in  so  short  a 
time  was  completely  established  in  the  minds  of  the 
gipsies.  We  had  no  means  of  weighing  our  fish.  The 
trout  out  of  this  lake  are  beautifully  pink,  and  delicious 
to  eat. 

Frokost  was  finished.  Esmeralda  was  putting  the  things 
away.  The  morning  was  now  finer,  and  we  perceived 
passing  over  the  bridge  two  young  tourists,  dressed  in  red 
shirts,  with  white  trousers  tucked  into  their  high  boots, 
which  laced  up  in  front.  These  kind  of  boots,  similar  in 
make  to  the  style  of  the  ladies'  Alpine  boot,  seem  to  be 
much  patronised  in  Norway  by  walking  tourists.  They 
appear  to  be  excellent  boots;  but  we  doubt  whether 
they  will  stand  heavy  mountain  work  with  the  same  com- 
fort to  the  wearer  as  our  ordinary  Alpine  boot.  During 
all  our  long  and  continued  walking  through  Norway  in 
all  weathers,  the  strong  Alpine  boots  made  at  Medwin's, 
Regent  Street,  never  gave   us  a  single  blister.     Each 


236  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

tourist  carried  his  knapsack,  and  seeing  our  tents  they 
sat  down  on  the  road-side,  on  the  top  of  the  declivity  by 
the  bridge,  to  look  at  our  camp.  When  we  went  up  to 
them,  and  asked  them  to  come  down  to  our  camp,  we 
found  them  very  nice  fellows.  One  spoke  English.  The 
donkeys  were  shown  them,  and  the  tents ;  and  then  we 
presented  each  vrith  a  copy  of  our  gipsy  song.  They 
seemed  much  pleased.  Yet,  in  after  years,  if  they  chance 
to  meet  with  it  among  their  souvenirs  de  voyage^  they 
will  again  remember  the  ''  Englishman  and  gipsies " 
camped  by  the  little  bridge  and  vrild  stream  near  Mol- 
raen.  After  the  tourists  had  continued  on  their  way 
towards  the  Gudbransdalen,  some  peasant  men  and 
women  arrived.  One  peasant  woman  seemed,  as  &r  as 
we  could  make  out,  to  wish'  us  to  stay  longer  to  attend 
some  fete.  Probably  they  wished  to  engage  our  musical 
services.  We  could  not  make  out  very  distinctly  what 
she  did  want.  As  we  struck  our  camp  and  packed  up, 
they  asked  us  to  spille*  a  little ;  but  the  weather  was 
again  cloudy  and  inclined  for  rain,  and  we  at  once  left 
for  Molmen.  There  is  a  very  pretty  wooden  church  at 
Molmen.  An  old  man  and  several  peasants  were  at  the 
road-side  near  the  turn  to  the  station,  which  is  a  short 
distance  from  the  road.  The  old  man  advanced  and  said, 
"  Velkommen."  There  was  somethmg  touching  in  this 
honest  and  hearty  and  kindly  word  to  the  nomad 
strangers. 

•  Nor.,  play. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

If  the  gipeieB  Are  not  the  dispened  ^gypiiftiu^  where  are  that 
scattered  people  ?  If  the  durpened  and  scattered  gipsies  are  not  the 
descendants  of  the  offending  ^gyptiansy  what  are  they  t" 

The  Oipsiea,    By  Samvxl  Bossbts. 

• 

THE  BAUMA — ^A  LOFTY  CLIMB — KOBE  BAIN — THE  FOREST  WALK — TENT 
UFE — PEASANT  FftTB  — NORWBGUN'daNCINO — ^ZACHARIAH'S  RIDE — THE 
^VrOOD  CARVINGS— A  PSALMODION — BTUEFLAATEN — THE  ROHSPAL — 
MAGNIFICENT  SCENERT — ^ENGLISH  SPOKEN. 

Taking  Noah  down  to  the  station,  we  purchased  one 

mark  of  fladbrod,  one  mark  of  butter,  and  four  skillings' 

worth   of  soap.     Esmeralda  had  used  all  our  stock  of 

soap.      The  quality  of  soap  in  some  parts  of  Norway  is 

indiflFerent.     The  kitchen   was  extremely  hot;    but  we 

went   into  a  small  comfortable  sitting-room,  where  we 

inspected  photographs  of  various  eminent  men  of  Norway, 

and  some  carved  spoons,  during  the  few  minutes  we  stayed. 

As  y^e  returned  to  the  road,  the  old  man  asked  us  how  far 

we  Tvere  going,  and  seemed  disappointed  when  we  said, 

**Langt/'     It  is  probable  he  wished  to  see  our  camp. 

Our   party  were  soon  following  the  banks  of  the  river 

Ramna. 

From  the  "Lesje  Voerks  Vand"  the  Logan  flows 
south,  and  the  Bauma,  whose  banks  we  had  now 
reached,  flows  north.  The  picturesque  lake,  from  which 
these  two  rivers  have  their  source,  is  about  one  Norsk 


238  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

* 

mile  long.  The  Logan  falls  into  the  Mjosen  Lake 
at  Lillehammer ;  the  Rauma  falls  into  the  IsQord,  a 
branch  of  the  Romsdal  Fjord  near  Veblungsnoes.  Roms- 
dalen  begins  at  Holsoet,*  near  our  camp  at  Loesje,  and 
is  about  fifty-six  miles  long.  The  country  through 
which  we  travelled  on  the  banks  of  the  Rauma  was  very 
beautiful.  Molmen  is  a  good  fishing  station.  We  saw 
some  large  trout  in  the  Rauma,  near  Molmen.  The  same 
interest  continued  with  regard  to  our  donkeys.  One 
peasant  got  out  on  the  roof  of  his  house  to  get  a  better 
view.  At  one  place  a  peasant  came  after  us,  and  sug- 
gested we  should  camp  on  some  wild  waste  land  through 
which  our  route  passed,  and  across  which  the  wind  was 
coldly  blowing.  There  was  little  shelter.  The  place  was 
not  inviting,  and  we  had  yet  time  to  be  fastidious  in  the 
selection  of  a  camping  ground.  Having  passed  "  Enebo," 
we  continued  our  route.  Zachariah  rode  on  the  top  of  the 
baggage  of  one  donkey,  and  occasionally  played  his  violin. 
At  length  we  came  to  a  wild  extent  of  open  moorland, 
with  mountains  rising  on  either  side.  Over  the  plain, 
detached  clumps  of  trees,  gave  the  scene  a  more  cheerful 
aspect.  On  the  moorland's  edge,  to  the  right,  hanging 
woods  covered  the  base  of  the  mountains  to  a  considerable 
height. 

The  picturesque  mountain,  called  the  Raanaa,  dark  hi 
its  wild  clouds,  and  a  mountain  we  understood  as  the 
Konokon,  also  the  Kongel,  the  Kolho,  and  Boverho 
Mountams  were  before  us.  We  turned  off  the  route  to 
the  right  across  the  moorland,  and  halted  near  a  small 
lake  by  a  clump  of  trees,  in  sight  of  a  picturesque  water- 
fall.    The  donkeys  were  unloaded  in  a  cold  wind  and 

*  Sometimes  spelt  Hoset  and  Holsetli. 


PROPOSAL  TO   VISIT  WATERFALL.  239 

heavy  rain.  Two  boys  came  up  almost  immediately,  and, 
putting  up  our  fishing-tackle,  we  followed  them,  with 
Zachariah,  across  the  moorland  to  the  left  of  our  route, 
and,  reachiDg  the  enclosure  of  a  hanging  wood  on  the 
steep  bank  of  the  Rauma,  we  were  soon  fishing  in  its 
stream.  The  water  had  a  thick  greenish  hue.  The 
wind  -was  very  cold,  with  occasional  rain.  Some  of  the 
throws  were  exceedingly  good ;  but  not  a  rise,  and  we 
returned  in  about  an  hour  to  our  camp.  Dinner  consisted 
of  three  pounds  of  our  dried  meat,  from  Holaker,  boiled 
with  potatoes,  rice,  pea-flour,  and  remdeer  moss,  to 
flavour  it.  Very  good  it  was:  soup  first,  then  meat, 
potatoes,  and  fladbrod,  water  being  our  beverage  instead 
of  tea  when  we  had  soup.  A  man  and  two  boys  came, 
and  we  gave  the  man  brandy,  and  the  two  boys  brandy- 
and-water.  When  the  peasant  took  his  brandy  neat,  he 
seemed  thoroughly  to  appreciate  it,  and  his  visage  bore 
marks  of  a  fondness  for  aquavit.  A  tall,  respectable- 
looking  old  man,  in  an  ample  black  cloth  dress  coat,  with 
a  belt  round  it  outside,  to  which  his  hunting-knife  hung, 
and  large  gloves  on,  came  up.  They  stood  in  the  rain 
looking  at  us,  as  we  sat  in  the  wet  enjoying  our  dinner, 
with  the  exception  of  the  meat,  which  was  too  tough  even 
for  ourself  and  three  hungry  gipsies  to  masticate.  The 
greatest  part  of  the  meat  was  put  by,  to  be  again  made 
into  soup. 

Dinner  being  finished,  and  being  extremely  wet  about 
the  legs,  we  proposed  to  visit  the  waterfall  we  saw  in  the 
distance.  It  was  about  four  o'clock,  and  Esmeralda 
accompanied  us,  whilst  Noah  and  Zacharia  remained  in 
charge  of  the  camp.  Passing  by  the  moorland  lake,  we 
were  soon  m  the  forest,  sometimes  nearly  over  our  boots 


S40  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOBWAY. 

in  wet  marshy  ground,  and  at  other  times  climbing  pre- 
cipitous rocks,  covered  with  moss  and  foliage,  overhung 
with  pine  and  birch.  Our  route  was  devious  and  uneven, 
damp  and  moist.  The  vand  fos  was  given  up.  A  beau- 
tiful bouquet  of  wild  flowers  was  secured,  and  at  six 
o'clock  we  sighted  our  camp.  Our  feet  were  wet  through 
as  we  came  up,  and  found  our  tents  had  been  pitched  by 
Noah  in  our  absence.  Changing  our  wet  things,  we  had 
tea  and  fried  trout  in  our  tents.  It  was  delightful  to  find 
ourselves  comfortably  seated  in  the  luxuriousness  and  inde- 
pendent freedom  of  our  tents,  in  sight  of  the  forests  and 
picturesque  fjelds.  A  gentleman  came  whilst  we  were  at 
tea,  probably  from  his  carriole,  which  he  had  left  on  the 
main  route.  As  he  walked  round  the  tents,  he  bowed, 
and  seemed  much  pleased  with  a  scene  illustrating  nomadic 
life  in  wet  weather. 

The  clouds  cleared  towards  half-past  eight,  and  the 
peasants  made  up  a  large  fire  for  us.  Then  they  came 
round  the  tent,  and  we  sang  our  gipsy  song  and  the 
"  Mocking  Bird,"  with  the  guitar  accompaniment. 

The  weather  being  now  tolerably  fine,  we  went  to  the 
fire  and  played  some  few  airs.  The  peasants  evidently 
wanted  to  dance.  Two  beaux  of  the  village  were  as  usual 
there:  one  a  slim,  short,  pale  young  man,  with  black 
surtout  coat;  and  the  other  a  young  man  in  ordinary 
peasant  costume.  They  began  dancing  together  to  our 
music,  and  the  pale  young  man  took  oflf  his  hat  very 
politely  to  Esmeralda,  who  was  seated  in  the  tent  Find- 
ing the  peasants  wished  to  dance,  and  that  the  turf  was 
too  uneven,  we  went  up  to  the  road,  and  taking  our 
waterproof  to  sit  upon,  the  gipsies,  Noah,  Zachariah,  and 
ourself  played  them  a  number  of  polkas.    The  two  beaux 


NORWEGIAN  DANCING.  241 

of  the  tillage  soon  found  two  stout  peasant  girls  for  part- 
ners, and  danced  to  an  admiring  audience.  Noah  danced 
with  one ;  but  he  said  she  smelt  so  much  of  ointments  he 
could  not  go  on.  The  peasants  seemed  much  pleased 
with  the  music — in  fact,  I  believe  we  were  improving. 
Zachariah  played  a  Norwegian  tune  he  had  picked  up  on 
board  the  steamer  going  to  Lillehammer,  which  seemed 
to  suit  them  exactly.  The  pale  young  man  in  the  surtout 
coat,  and  an  active  peasant  girl,  danced  to  it  in'  a  peculiar 
Norwegian  step.  We  liked  to  see  them.  As  they  danced, 
sometimes  the  pale  young  man  relinquished  the  waist  of 
his  partner,  and  they  both  turned  the  reverse  way  apart, 
keeping  up  the  step  till  they  again  met  once  more,  and 
whirled  round  rapidly  together.  The  stillness  of  evening, 
with  its  freshness  after  rain,  as  the  dancers  waltzed  in  the 
midst  of  the  wild  moorland,  to  the  sounds  of  the  violin, 
guitar,  and  tambourine, — a  thousand  different  dreams  • 
crowded  upon  our  fancy.  That  Norwegian  air  I — again 
and  again  we  played  it,  till  our  dancers  were  almost 
tired.  The  spectators  apparently  enjoyed  looking  on 
quite  as  well.  There  was  the  peasant  who  appreciated 
spirits,  and  many  more.  .They  are  a  good-humoured 
people.  One  peasant  girl  would  insist  upon  Esmeralda 
coming  up.  The  pale  young  man  wished  to  dance 
with  Esmeralda;  but  she  would  only  dance  once  with 
her  brother  before  he  went  to  take  her  place  at  the 
tents.  All  things  have  an  end.  Our  music  ended. 
Wishing  our  friends,  including  oiir  two  beaux  of  the 
village,  good  night,  we  went  to  our  tents,  and  the 
peasants  soon  after  left.  Esmeralda  was  rather  un- 
well, for  she  had  neglected  to  change  her  wet  boots. 
Bmndy-and-water  was  administered  to  Esmeralda  and 


I 


242  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

Noah.     The  night  was  damp  and  cold,  and  we  could 
scarcely  keep  our  feet  wann. 

Rising  at  about  seven  o'clock  we  went  again  to  the 
Rauma ;  but  fished  without  success.   The  morning  was 
cold.     Returning  to  breakfast,  Esmeralda  had  prepared 
four  eggs,  tea,  and  fladbrod  and  butter,  for  the  party.  As 
the  gipsies  were  striking  our  tents  and  loading  our  baggage 
a  man  and  two  boys  came,  and  a  little  girl  with  some 
milk,  but  too  late  for  our  breakfast.     She  had  brought  it 
some  little  distance,  and  we  bought  it  for  five  skillings. 
Leaving  our  camp,  we  passed  the  waterfall,  and  crossed 
a  bridge,  leaving  the  open  moorland  for  the   enclosed 
road.     The  river  seemed  well  adapted  for  fish ;  but  we 
do  not  think  much  sport  can  be  obtained  at  this  part  of 
the  Rauma.    Very  soon  after  we  commenced  our  day's 
journey,  Zachariah,  who  had  ridden  on  one  of  the  loaded 
donkeys  most  of  the  previous  day,  wished  to  ride  again. 
Occasionally  we  did  not  object;  but  our  donkeys  had 
already  quite  sufficient  weight  without  the  addition  of 
Zachariah.     His  brother  and   sister  were  of  the  same 
opinion  as  ourself,  and,  although  he  alleged  pain  in  his 
stomach,  we  suggested  that  walking  would  be  its  best 
antidote.     With  a  wild  waywardness  of  disposition,  he 
soon  after  jumped  on  one  of  the  loaded  donkeys  from 
behind,  which  resulted  in  his  being  pulled  oflF  with  a  shake, 
which,  if  it  did  not  bring  him  to  his  senses,  brought  him 
to  his  feet  for  the  rest  of  the  day's  journey. 

The  Shorengro  (gip.,  chief )  of  a  party  should  be  firm. 
Camp  laws,  as  laid  down  before  starting,  should  be 
adhered  to.  In  matters  requiring  the  decision  of  the 
directing  mind,  caution  should  be  used.  When  settled, 
arrangements   should   be  firmly  acted  upon ;    wavering 


THE  WOOD  CARVINGS.  2i3 

and  feebleness  of  purpose  will  soon  ruin  the  success  of 
any  expedition ;  calm  serenity  of  mind,  and  good  temper 
through  all  di£5culties,  is  indispensable.  The  peasants 
showed  the  same  anxiety  as  usual  to  see  our  donkeys. 
The  former  station  at  Nystuen  is  now  discontinued. 

Before  we  reached  Stueflaaten  a  reindeer-hunter  came 
to  us  in  the  road,  a  thick-set  intelligent  man,  dressed  in 
good  clothes  and  wearing  long  boots.     The  hunter  spoke 
a  little  English.     We  went  with  him  up  to  his  house, 
close  to  the  road.   The  large  family  room,  used  as  kitchen 
and  general  room,  was   as   badly  ventilated    as  usual. 
Very  seldom  we  ventured  into  the  close  atmosphere  of 
the  Norwegian  farm-houses.     There  are,  no  doubt,  ex- 
ceptions.    Many  of  the  houses  have  very  small  windows, 
which  do  not  open,  and  they  are  therefore  closed  winter 
and  summer.     The  musketos  and  flies  and  heat  are  kept 
out,  but  then  it  is  generally  at  the  cost  of  fresh  air,  that 
invaluable  health-producer,  too  lightly  estimated.     The 
room  had  a  trap-door  in  the  floor,  with  a  ring  to  it, 
which  somehow  we  always  connect  with    a  scene   of 
mystery;    some  adventure  requiring  to   be  worked  out 
with  a  melodramatic  denouement     The  reindeer-hunter's 
wife  furnished  us  with  some  butter,  two  eggs,  and  some 
fladbrod,  for  which  we  paid  one   mark  three  skillings. 
The  butter  was  of  dark  yellow  colour,  but  we  found  it 
good.      They  had  a  very  primitive  weighing-machine, 
a  short  piece  of  round  wood  with  a  knob  at  one  end, 
and  a  small  hook  at  the  other.   The  article  to  be  weighed 
is  hung  on  the  hook,  and  the  machine  is  balanced  on  the 
finger  at  certain  marks,  which  indicate  the  weight.    Seve- 
ral carved  spoons,  and  an  ingeniously  carved  butter-cup, 
were  produced.     For  the  butter-cup,  which  the  reindeer- 

H  2 


244  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOnWAY. 

hunter  had  carved  himself,  he  wanted  three  marks.  At 
our  request  he  reached. a  "Psalmodion  "  down — a  very 
primitive  Norwegian  inetrumetit — one  string  stretched 
over  a  flat  board,  played  with  a  kind  of  fiddle-bow. 
The  sound  is  neitlier  harmonious  or  lively,  though  the 
hunter,  who  played  it,  was  probably  a  good  performer. 
There  vpaa  much  that  was  ancient  and  belonging  to  a 
past  age,  in  the  house.     We  afterwards  bought  one  of 


raiMttiTK  wiiaHtHa  lucauii. 


his  carved  wooden  spoons  for  ten  ekillings,  which  seemed 
to  please  the  reindeer-hunter  very  much.  The  carved 
spoon  was  given  to  Esmeralda,  and  ultimately  broken. 

The  station  of  Stuefiaaten  stands  upon  a  rise  of 
ground  forming  a  kind  of  promontory,  round  which  the 
road  circles,  so  that  you  can  walk  up  one  side  to  the 
station  and  descend  on  the  other  into  the  road.  There 
is  a  sort  of  balcony,  with  seats  round  it,  and  steps  up 
to  it,  in  front  of  the  entrance  door.  A  very  civil  hostess 
— we  took  her  for  such — met  us  from  the  kitchen.  They 
had  also  an  inner  room,  in  which  a  large  fire  was  burn- 
ing. Our  stores  were  replenished  with  three  marks' 
worth  of  fladbrod,  potatoes,  and  twelve  eggs.  The  people 
of  the  station  came  down  to  see  our  donkeys.  At  a 
short  distance  from  Stuefiaaten  the  route  descends  tbe 
side  of  steep  rocky  cliffs  by  a  zig-zag  road  cut  through 


8TVEFLAATEN.  245 

the  rocks.  A  large  expanse  of  fjeld  and  forest,  broken 
and  intersected  by  rushing  torrents,  leaving  nothing  but 
streaks  of  white  foam  visible  in  the  distance,  converged 
to  the  deep,  deep,  narrow  romantic  valley  we  were  now 
entering.  The  day  had  become  fine  and  beautiful.  We 
gazed  in  silence  as  we  commenced  our  descent  down  the 
road,  carried  in  a  slanting  direction  to  an  angle,  so  as  to 
render  the  way  less  difficult  and  steep.  At  a  very  short 
distance  after  we  had  turned  the  angle  of  the  road  a 
halt  was  called.  In  a  recess  covered  with  wild  flowers, 
and  bushes  on  the  top  of  the  sloping  bank,  above  the 
road,  we  found  sufficient  room  for  our  middags-maA 

The  broken  bank  was  overhung  by  steep  rocks.  The 
fire  was  soon  lighted.  Esmeralda  peeled  some  potatoes. 
An  excellent  soup  was  made  from  our  stock  of  yester- 
day, to  which  was  added  the  dried  meat  from  Holiaker, 
to  be  boiled  a  second  time  with  potatoes,  Liebig's 
essence,  and  a  quantity  of  wild  sorrel.  What  a  beauti- 
ful scene !  What  numberless  streams  dashing  in  their 
deep-worn  watercourses  into  the  blue  waters  of  the 
Rauma,  which  loses  itself  in  the  deep  ravine  of  the 
narrow  valley;  so  we  stayed  until  it  was  found  to  be 
six  o'clock.  Hastily  loading  again  we  followed  the 
gradual  descent  of  the  road.  Before  us  rose  the 
singularly  shaped  mountain,  said  to  be  the  Dontind.* 
Its  shape  is  peculiar,  with  its  escarped  precipices  and 
snowy  summit  A  very  picturesque  waterfall  came  dash- 
ing down  the  rocks  to  our  right,  and  close  by  stood  a 
very  small  wooden  mill,  with  its  simple  and  primitive 
method  of  grinding.     The  miller  was  there  as  we  looked 

*  We  believe  this  is  the  same  mountain  caUed  in  the  Guide  Book 
"  Storhcetten,'' 


246  TENT  LIFE  JN  NORWAY. 

in,  and  had  just  room  to  stand  inside.  He  was  grinding 
oats.  If  many  articles  of  food  are  not  so  fine  in  quality 
in  Norway,  there  is  one  satisfaction,  that  what  you  have 
is  generally  genuine. 

At  last  we  came  to  where  the  Rauraa,  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  road,  enters  a  deep  gorge,  and  forms 
the  beautiful  fall  of  the  Soendre  Slettefossen.  The  river 
passes  through  a  deep  chasm  of  rock,  and  is  spanned  by 
a  narrow  log  bridge.  Not  far  from  the  fall,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  road,  we  found  some  rough  broken 
ground  at  the  back  of  a  rocky  cliff.  An  old  carriage- 
way had  once  gone  through  the  rocks,  but  was  now 
stopped  up,  so  that  we  found  ourselves  on  a  comfortable 
platform  above  the  main  road. 

The  view  was  beautiful.  The  donkeys  were  driven  up, 
and  quickly  unloaded.  An  old  peasant  man  and  woman, 
and  one  or  two  children  were  there,  as  if  they  had  been 
forewarned  of  our  arrival,  and  were  ready  to  receive  us. 
Out  came  our  silver-mounted  brandy-flask.  It  was  of 
handsome  spiral  shape  and  formed  of  glass.  How  it 
escaped  being  broken  we  could  never  make  out,  but  we 
have  it  now.  The  old  man  and  woman  drank  their 
brandy,  and  seemed  much  pleased.  They  plucked  some 
grass  to  feed  the  donkeys.  Very  soon  other  peasants 
came,  and  a  reindeer-hunter,  who  spoke  some  English. 
The  hunter  was  a  very  civil  intelligent  man ;  he  could 
read  English,  and  spoke  it  tolerably  well,  telling  us  there 
were  many  reindeer,  and  he  would  go  with  English 
gentlemen  shooting  them. 

Our  evening  meal  was  soon  ready,  four  eggs,  fladbrod, 
butter,  and  tea.  The  peasants  were  told  that  after  our 
tents  were  pitched  they  should  have  some  music.     Two 


THE  R0M8DAL.  247 

^^  xjQy  tent-rods  were  broken,  and  we  had  to  splice  them- 
^^  consequence  of  the  loss  of  our  kettle-prop  we  were 
^^Wged  to  make  holes  for  our  tent-rods  with  the  sharp 
pmm:>mt  of  one  of  Tennant's  geological  hammers.  Whilst 
\tame  tents  were  being  pitched  we  continued  our  notes  de 
'^^oycige. 

The  peasants  were  not  numerous,  but  they  were  appre- 
^^iative  as  we  played.  It  was  interesting  to  watch  their 
■feiindly  countenances  as  they  gazed  on  the  nomads,  with 
tleir  tents  and  donkeys,  on  the  sheltered  platform  of  a 
^ocky  cliff  above  the  Rauma.  When  our  music  ended, 
^nd  we  wished  them  good  night,  they  did  not  remain 
^bout  our  tents,  but  quietly  left  us  to  take  our  rest. 


CHAPTER  XXn. 

**  Commend  me  to  gipsy  life  a&d  hard  Uying.  Bobust  exercise,  out- 
door life,  and  pleasant  companions  are  sure  to  beget  good  dispositions, 
both  of  mind  and  body,  and  would  create  a  stomach  under  the  very 
ribs  of  death,  capable  of  digesting  a  bar  of  pig  iron." 

GsoBOB  S.  Phulips  (January  Searle). 

THE  DONTIND — ORMEIK — MOUNTAIN  ROAD— OUR  BIVOUAC — DELIGHTED 
VISITOR — THE  WATER  ELP — EXCITED  GIPSIES — TAGE  EN  BTOL— NOR- 
WEGIAN GIRLS — SUNDAY  ON  THE  RAUMA — CARRIOLE  TRAVELLING- 
COMING  TO  GRIEF — "  SPILLE  "  A  LITTLE — ESMERALDA's  BIRTHDAY— THE 
NORWEGIAN  CLIMATE — THE  SJIRIAGLNS — UNCOMFORTABLE  BED— THE 
LARGE  ANT. 

It  was  a  channiDg  night.  The  Rauma  foamed  beneath 
and  lulled  us  to  sleep.  The  snow-covered  and  singularly 
shaped  "  Dontind  ''  towered  in  the  distance  above  the 
valley. 

At  seven  o'clock  the  next  morning  we  were  up  and 
had  breakfast,  tea,  fladbrod,  and'  butter.  Whilst  the 
gipsies  were  loading,  we  went  to  the  log  bridge,  and 
viewed  the  picturesque  fall  of  the  Rauma,  the  "  Soendre 
Slettefossen,"  foaming  through  high  and  overhanging 
rocks.  Returning  soon  afterwards  to  our  camp,  we  found 
Noah  and  Esmeralda  in  high  dudgeon.  A  gale  at  sea, 
a  simoom,  or  even  an  earthquake,  could  only  be  com- 
pared to  it.  The  gist  of  Noah's  wrong  was  some  real 
or  fancied  neglect  on  the  part  of  Esmeralda  to  pack  one 


ORMEIK  249 

pocket  properly.  In  travelling  our  tent-cover,  rugs, 
wardrobe,  and  a  number  of  minor  articles,  were  packed 
into  one  pocket,  which  was  placed  on  the  puru  rawnee, 
and  formed  a  pad  for  the  other  things  she  carried  to  rest 
upon.  To  avoid  injury  to  the  animal's  back  it  was,  there- 
fore, very  essential  that  all  hard  substances  should  be 
placed  in  the  comers  of  the  pocket,  so  that  they  should 
not  bear  upon  the  animal's  back.  It  was  necessary  to  use 
great  care,  especially  during  the  long  and  difficult  journey 
we  had  before  us.  Pouring  oil  on  the  troubled  waters 
of  the  boro  panee  (gip.,  sea),  we  started  with  the  thermo- 
meter at  TS"*  Fahrenheit.  All  soon  subsided  into  tran- 
quillity and  friendly  feeling. 

The  sun  now  became  very  hot.  Everywhere  we  were 
greeted  with  the  same  excitement,  and  the  donkeys  were 
much  admired ;  grass  was  at  times  given  them,  and  a 
friendly  welcome  to  ourselves.  Descending  the  beautiful 
road  on  the  right  side  of  the  narrow  valley,  with  pleasant 
farms  below  us  on  the  slopes  to  the  Rauma,  we  reached  the 
post  station  of  Ormein.  Beautifully  situated  as  it  is,  this 
station  would  be  excellent  quarters;  and  a  comfortable 
resting  place  for  the  lover  of  nature,  and  the  fisherman. 
There  was  a  general  rush  as  we  came  up.  The  donkeys 
were  surrounded,  and  water  and  grass  were  brought  for 
them.  We  went  into  the  station  and  purchased  a  large  loaf 
of  bread,  some  excellent  crisp  fladbrod,  a  pound  of  good 
butter,  and  two  kinds  of  Norwegian  soap,  for  one  mark 
and  twenty  skillings.  There  was  a  bed  in  the  kitchen, 
covered  with  an  animal's  skin.  The  fire  was  made  on  a 
raised  hearth,  the  chimney  rising  straight  from  it,  but  with- 
out contact  with  the  sides  of  the  room ;  so  that  there  is 
great  economy  of  heat  obtained.  As  you  look  from  the  sta- 


250  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

tion  to  the  "  Alter  Ho  "  on  the  other  side  the  valley,  the 
picturesque  vandfos,  called  Vermedalsfossen,  dashes  down 
the  mountain  side  through  wild  and  moss-covered  crai^ 
to  the  Rauma.     From  this  place  the  Dontind  or  Storhoet- 
ten  may  be  ascended.     Leaving  the  kind  and  civil  people 
of  Onnein  about  half-past  twelve  o'clock,  we  continued 
our  journey  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rauma.     The  road 
was  still  inclosed,  and  the  immediate  banks  of  the  Rauma 
were   cultivated  for  hay,   potatoes,   and  grain,    which 
seemed  to  thrive  in  sheltered  situations.     At  length   the 
mountains  became  more  steep,  lofty,  and  rugged  on  either 
side  the  valley,  which  formed  a  narrow  flat  through  which 
the  now  level  road  ran.     Coming  to  a  gate  we  entered  a 
space  of  wild  broken  ground  open  to  the  Rauma,  which 
was  close  to  the  road,   A  very  large  mass  of  rock  pitched 
on  end,  looking  not  unlike  the  representations  of  the  cele- 
brated English  rocking-stone  in  Cornwall,  stood  not  far 
from  the  ^ate,  to  the  right  of  the  road.     The  open  green 
sward  was  margined  by  thick  and  tangled  brushwood, 
rising  immediately  to  the  mountain  precipices  which  over- 
hungthe  valley.  At  a  short  distance  beyond,  the  lofty  mural 
steeps  of  a  snow-covered  mountain  seemed  to  leave  no  pos- 
sible outlet.  Towering  precipices  of  barren  rock  rose  almost 
at  once  from  the  banks  green  with  foliage  on  the  opposite 
side  to  Rauma.     Cascades  fell  in  fleecy  clouds  of  spray  on 
either  side  into  the  valley  below ;  we  were  never  tired  of 
watching  them.     The  banks  of  the  Rauma  were  low,  the 
stream  broad  and  broken  in  its  course,  and  had  a  thou- 
sand rippling  eddies  and  swirls  formed  by  its  rough  and 
uneven  bed.     Birch- woods  clothed  the  lower  sides  of  the 
valley.     One  small  log  cottage  m  the  distance,  close  to 
the  road  and  near  the  river,  was  the  only  sign  of  human 


OUR  BirOVAC.  261 

life  we  could  see.  The  marks  of  bivouac  fires  under  the 
shelter  of  the  large  leaning  rock  showed  that  it  was  a 
favourite  halt  for  wayfarers. 

The  tents  were  pitched  on  a  dry  hillock  near  the  low 
bushes  beyond  the  leaning  rock.  We  had  just  said  to 
the  gipsies  that  we  should  shortly  see  a  peasant  perched 
on  a  rock  or  on  the  top  of  a  mountain,  when  two  peasants 
immediately  appeared,  and  some  brandy  was  handed  to 
them.  One  drank  his  glass  with  evident  satisfaction, 
but  the  other  pointed  to  his  chest,  so  his  companion 
swallowed  his  share.  They  got  some  grass  for  the  donkeys, 
and  afterwards  left.  A  boy,  who  was  travelling  on  foot 
with  a  satchel  and  his  coat  hanging  from  it,  came  from 
the  road  ;  he  wore  long  boots  much  patched,  home-spun 
brown  trowsers,  and  waistcoat  to  match,  with  large  black 
buttons  having  a  flower  on  them  in  relief.  Poor  fellow, 
he  was  delighted  with  the  animals,  and  for  a  considerable 
time  sat  watchmg  them,  with  a  smile  of  intense  satisfac- 
tion on  his  countenance.  The  donkeys,  we  think,  began  to 
feel  their  social  position  in  the  animal  world  much  elevated. 
The  boy  at  last  went  some  distance  up  the  steep  side  of 
the  mountain  to  get  grass  for  them.  He  first  ascertained 
fi:om  us  that  they  eat  grass,  which  he  might  have  seen 
had  he  noticed  what  they  were  doing.  Some  weak 
brandy-and-water  was  offered  to  him,  but  he  declined  to 
drink  it.  The  musical  box  was  set  playing  near  him 
as  he  lay  on  the  grass,  and  he  seemed  delighted.  Another 
boy  came,  and  they  seemed  very  reluctant  to  tear  them- 
selves away  from  our  donkeys,  but  at  last  they  left. 

After  a  dinner  of  tea,  ham,  eggs,  fladbrod,  and  butter, 
Noah  washed  his  shirt,  and  went  fishing  with  Zachariah. 
Esmeralda  went  to  the  river  to  wash  some  of  our  things, 


252  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

and  we  lounged  by  the  tents.     Several  peasants  came  to 
see  the  donkeys. 

The  scenery  of  the  valley  was  charming,  and  the  evening 
wore  on  till  six  o'clock.  First  Zachariah  returned  dripping 
with  wet,  looking  like  a  water  elf  fresh  from  the  Rauma. 
He  produced  a  grayling  more  than  a  pound  weight,  and 
some  small  trout,  and  related  that  he  had  nearly  caught 
the  grayling,  and  was  getting  it  to  the  bank  when  the  fly 
came  out  of  its  mouth.  In  an  instant  he  plunged  in, 
and  threw  it  out.  As  he  was  changing  his  wet  thmgs, 
which  we  at  once  insisted  upon,  some  people  passed  along 
the  road  who  seemed  much  amused,  and  he  had  to  play 
at  hide-and-seek  round  the  large  rock  to  conceal  himself. 
We  rubbed  him  over  with  brandy,  and  he  went  fishing 
again. 

Esmeralda,  who  had  completed  her  washing,  made  tea, 
and  whilst  we  were  finishing  our  meal,  some  carriers  came 
up  and  halted  near  the  rock.  They  were  informed  they 
might  have  the  use  of  our  fire.  Zachariah's  tea  was  put 
by  for  him.  The  carriers  were  rough,  hardy  men,  well- 
dressed,  and  respectable  in  appearance.  They  had  a 
light  cart  heavily  laden.  One  of  them  sat  down,  and 
producing  a  quantity  of  fladbrod  from  a  tine  (pronounced 
teena)  and  a  small  wooden  box  of  butter,  commenced 
leisurely  consuming  his  provisions.  Most  of  the  peasants 
we  met  chew  tobacco.  We  often  saw  them  produce 
a  quid  from  their  pockets,  and,  putting  it  in  their  mouths, 
spit  in  all  directions.  Snufi'-taking  did  not  seem  to  be  a 
habit.  The  carriers  said  they  had  come  from  Veblungs- 
noes,  and  had  halted  to  rest  their  horses,  and  would  not 
remain  the  night.  They  were  delighted  with  our  tents, 
the  interior  fittings,  and  especially  with  the  donkeys. 


EXCITED  0IP8IE8.  263 

It  was  after  ten  o'clock  when  Zachariah  returned  with 
his  eyes  sparkling  with  fire,  and  seventeen  small  trout. 
The  usual  animated  discussion  arose  between  the  gipsies 
as  to  who  had  caught  the  most  fish.  "  Now  then,  Lucas/' 
Noah  would  vociferate,  "I say  you  have  only  caught 
twenty-three."  "  What,  only  twenty-three  ?"  Zachariah 
would  answer,  his  eyes  wildly  flashing  with  excitement, 
and  shouting  in  a  still  higher  key,  "No  such  thing, 
Noah."  *'  Now  you  count,  Mr.  Smith ;  here  are  seventeen, 
and  nine  before,  make  twenty-six." 

What  a  picture  study!  wild  valley,  night-fall,  two 
excited  gipsies,  ourself  arbitrator,  trout  lying  near  on 
the  turf,  hanging  rock,  camp  fire,  gipsy  girl  standing  by 
the  tents,  roar  of  river,  dark  gloom  of  precipices  above 
our  camp.  Can  we  forget  the  scene  ?  About  ten  o'clock 
several  peasant  girls  arrived  to  lend  more  romance  to 
the  evening  incidents.  One  or  two  old  men  in  red  caps 
also  arrived.  The  night  was  beautiful ;  we  sat  down  on 
the  turf  outside  our  tents,  Zachariah  boshamengro  (gip., 
violin-player),  myself  with  castanets,  and  Esmeralda  with 
her  tambourine.  Bowing  to  the  peasants,  we  said  in 
our  best  Norwegian,  "  Ver  so  artig  tage  en  stole  "  (be  so 
good  as  to  take  a  seat),  pointing  to  the  turf,  upon  which 
they  sat  down.  After  some  musician  intelligent-looking 
young  Norwegian  played  some  Norwegian  tunes  on  an 
accordion  he  had  brought.  It  was  not  in  very  good  tone, 
but  we  were  glad  to  hear  the  Norwegian  airs  he  played. 
Then  we  suggested  a  dance. 

"  Ah ! "  said  Esmeralda,  *'  look  at  that  Hackly  a  salin 
at  Noah." 

Noah  at  once  got  up,  and  whilst  a  young  peasant  was 
apparently  trying  to  prevail  upon  her  to  dance,  Noah 


2'>4  TENT  UFE  IN  NORWAY. 

seized  her  round  the  waist ;  the  ice  was  broken,  and  they 
whirled  round  in  a  polka  on  the  turf.  Then  the  young 
peasant  took  her  for  a  partner ;  she  was  a  nice-looking 
girl,  but  wanted  rather  more  agility  of  step.  The  Nor- 
wegian girls,  as  a  rule,  want  the  elasticity  of  the  southern 
belles.  Norwegian  girls  have,  however,  a  quiet  and 
kindly  expression  of  all  that  is  good  and  sweet  in  disposi- 
tion, and  true-hearted  feeling.  What  a  contrast  between 
them  and  the  dark-eyed  olive-complexioned  girl  of  the 
south.  Equally  in  contrast  the  warm-blooded  animation 
of  the  southern  girl,  when  roused  by  the  excitement  of 
some  strong  and  sudden  emotion. 

Only  one  Norwegian  peasant  girl  joined  in  the  evening 
green-sward  waltz.     The  accordion-player  had  his  dance 
with  the  Rankny*  Rackly  (gip.,  pretty  girl),  as  the  gipsies 
called  her.     We  played  two  more  tunes  for  thera,   and 
when  we  had  finished  we  wished  them  good  night,  and 
they  left.     The  carriers  then  departed  on  their  journej', 
and  as  we  were  going  to  bed  some  more  came  up   and 
halted  for  the  night  by  the  leaning  stone.     The  newly- 
arrived  immediately  went  to  the  donkeys,  and  got  some 
grass  for  them.  One  man  brought  me  something  to  drink, 
but  we  declined  it  with  thanks.     To  one  we  gave  some 
tobacco  for  his  pipe,  and,  retiring  to  our  tents,  we  were 
soon  all  asleep. 

Another  Sunday.  We  lay  unusually  late — ^nine  o'clock. 
The  morning  was  not  inviting,  but  very  dull  and  cloudj^ 
The  rain  fell  fast,  and  we  could  hear  the  roar  of  many 
waterfalls  down  the  precipitous  sides  of  the  lofty  moun- 
tains above  us.  The  sound  of  the  river  and  the  roar  of 
waterfalls  in  a  wild  valley  were  conducive  to  sleep.     The 

*  Sometimes  pronounced  **  Rinkenno." 


COMING  TO  GRIEF.  2:)5 

gipsies  soon  had  a  fire  under  the  shelter  of  the  leaning 
rock.  The  carriers  were  gone.  Our  irokost  copsisted  of 
tea,  fried  trout,  bread,  and  potted  tongue.  After  break- 
fast Noah  and  Zachariah  rode  the  donkeys,  in  search  of 
bread  and  butter.  We  stayed  in  our  tent  writing.  Some 
peasants  came,  from  time  to  time,  to  look  at  our  camp 
and  donkeys. 

As  we  were  writing  before  dinner,  we  observed  several 
carrioles  coming  along  the  road  en  route  towards  Ormein. 
The  carriole  is  a  light  easy  carriage,  admirably  suited  for 
a  hilly  land,  and  well  adapted  to  the  small  sure-footed 
ponies  of  the  country.  The  only  objection  we  are  disposed 
to  make  is  the  necessity  of  travelling  along  the  road  alone  ; 
if  with  friends,  you  post  from  one  station  to  another,  at 
some  distance  apart,  without  being  able  to  hold  much 
converse  or  communication.  In  this  instance  the  carrioles 
followed,  one  after  the  other,  at  some  short  distance.  As 
they  passed  our  tents  and  the  hanging  stone,  two  of  the 
travellers,  in  knickerbockers  and  Scotch  caps,  appeared 
to  be  Englishmen.  The  driver  of  one  of  the  carrioles  was 
dressed  in  black,  and  appeared  to  be  a  Norwegian.  The 
animal  he  drove  was  rather  larger  than  a  pony,  and 
apparently  timid  and  shy.  Suddenly  the  horse  swerved, 
and  the  driver  checked  him  rather  sharply.  In  a 
moment  both  shafts  broke  through  with  a  crash.  The 
traveller  got  out;  the  horse  remained  still.  We  went 
down  to  the  broken  carriole,  and  said  it  was  unfortunate. 
The  traveller  said  something  quietly  in  Norsk.  Returning 
to  the  tents,  Esmeralda  gave  me  some  rope.  In  the 
meantime  two  or  three  of  the  other  voyageurs  came  back 
from  their  carrioles,  including  one  of  the  Englishmen 
in  knickerbockers.     Three   of  the   party   seemed   Nor- 


256  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

wegians.  Very  few  words  were  said — they  were  men  of 
action.  In  less  time  than  it  has  taken  us  to  write  this,  the 
broken  carriole  was  fastened  with  the  rope  they  brought 
with  them  to  a  stolkjoerre.  The  other  travellers  went 
forward,  and  getting  into  their  carrioles,  they  were  all 
soon  out  of  sight.  Noah  and  Zachariah  met  them  as  they 
returned,  in  pouring  rain,  from  a  farm,  where  they  had 
purchased  butter  and  excellent  fladbrod.  The  people  were 
very  kind,  and  gave  them  some  milk,  and  the  donkeys 
grass.  They  were  both  very  wet ;  but  had  no  change. 
At  two  o'clock,  a  second  tin  of  Australian  meat  was 
opened.  We  had  tea,  Australian  preserved  meat,  pota- 
toes, and  fladbrod.  The  Australian  meat  was  excellent, 
and  a  very  good  dinner  we  all  made.  From  our  tents  we 
could  see  very  plainly  all  who  travelled  along  the  road. 
During  the  afternoon  a  close  carriage  drawn  by  three 
horses  abreast  pulled  up,  and  a  lady  and  children  inside 
seemed  much  interested.  A  gentleman  outside  said  to 
them,  the  tent  is  waterproof.  They  all  stayed  for  a  short 
time,  looking  from  the  Toad'at  the  fragile  abri  which 
sheltered  us  from  the  elements.  Several  peasants  arrived, 
and  immediately  went  to  see  the  donkeys.  We  gave  two 
of  the  peasants  some  tobacco,  and  one  brought  us  a  steel 
pen  which  we  had  dropped  on  the  turf  near  our  camp. 
They  wanted  us  to  "  spille  *'  a  little  ;  but  it  was  Sunday, 
and  we  made  it  a  day  of  rest.  It  rained  heavily  during  the 
afternoon.  Thick  mist  clung  to  the  summits  of  the  steep 
and  lofty  mountains.  Noah,  Esmeralda,  and  Zachariah 
all  fell  asleep  till  seven  or  eight  o'clock. 

A  Sunday  on  the  banks  of  the  Eauma. — With  how 
much  pleasure  we  welcomed  a  day  ordained  for  the 
world's  especial  rest.     To  our  party  it  was  welcome  after 


BSMBBALDA'S  BIETHDA  Y.  257 

the  wanderings  of  each  preceding  week.  This  Sunday 
was  also  Esmeralda's  birthday,  and  we  had  wished  her 
happiness.*  One  could  not  help  feeling  regret  as  we 
reflected  upon  the  condition  of  these  light-hearted  wan- 
derers, Esmeralda  knew  one  prayer.  We  hoped  on  our 
return  to  England  to  have  her  confirmed.  With  all 
their  waywardness,  wilfulness,  impulsiveness,  irrepressible 
energy,  and  at  times  apathetic  listlessness,  careless  alike 
of  to-day  or  to-morrow,  there  were  still  some  redeeming 
points  of  character,  gleams  of  sunshine,  which  gave 
uncertain  glamour  to  their  mystic  fate. 

We  talked  to  some  of  the  peasant  visitors  as  well  as 
we  could.  They  sat  at  our  tent  entrance.  One  young 
peasant  came  in  with  his  pipe,  and  began  to  smoke 
and  spit  in  all  directions.  When  he  understood  that 
no  smoking  was  allowed  inside,  he  seemed  annoyed  at 
his  own  forgetfiilnesa,  and  took  his  seat  again  at  the  tent 
entrance. 

There  is  a  high  principle  of  character  about  the  Nor- 
wegian people,  which  won  our  respect  and  esteem.  It  was 
not  on  one  occasion,  but  many  occasions,  that  we  had 
instances  of  their  strict  probity.  Many  are  poor ;  but  they 
are  honest.  That  conscious  feeling  of  good  intention, 
produces  the  manly  bearing,  and  national  independence 
of  spirit,  with  which  the  Norwegian  people  are  so  largely 
imbued. 

Many  of  the  peasants  wished  particularly  to  know  what 
the  donkeys  cost^  and  were  often  loud  in  their  exclamation, 
"peen  gioere,"  "peen  gioere,"  as  they  walked  round 
them. 

Yesterday  the  temperature  had  been,  at  three  o'clock, 

*  17th  July. 

8 


268  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

up  to  90^  Fahrenheit ;  to-day,  in  the  evening,  it  was  only 
68°;  towards  seven  o'clock  it  became  cold.  Between 
seven  and  eight  o'clock  we  had  tea  of  fried  grayling, 
fladbrod,  and  butter. 

After  tea,  taking  Noah  and  Zachariah  with  us,  we  went 
to  see  a  beautiful  waterfall  not  very  far  along  the  valley, 
on  the  right  of  the  road  going  to  Veblungsnoes.  The  spray 
from  it  was  at  times  blown  in  thin  mist  across  the  road. 
The  steep,  dark  gray  rocks  of  the  "  Sjiriaglns,"  as  we  un- 
derstood the  name  (it  was  so  written  down  for  us,  but  we 
do  not  find  it  marked  in  any  of  our  maps),  overhung  the 
road.  In  the  picturesque  gorge  of  this  part  of  the  valley 
three  diminutive  log  houses  stood  at  some  short  distance 
apart  from  each  other-:-the  lowly  shelter  of  the  peasants 
of  this  rugged  glen.  What  must  be  the  life  of  these 
poor  people  !  How  hard  their  fare !  but  still  they  seemed 
contented.  It  may  be  they  have  a  larger  share  of  happi- 
ness than  we  could  imagine  possible.  When  we  returned 
to  tlie  tents  Zachariah  tried  to  dry  his  trousers  at  a  fire  at 
the  hanging  rock.*     Noah  and  Zacharia  had  been  very 

•  This  large  isolated  mass  of  rock  or  stone,  pitclie<l  on  end,  near  the  road- 
way  and  river,  a  few  yards  from  our  camp,  was  sometimes  called  by  us  the 
"Hanging  Bock,"  sometimes  the  "Hanging  Stone,"  and  very  often  the 
"  Leaning  Stone."  In  future  mention  in  Uiese  pages  we  shaU  call  it  the 
"  Leaning  Stone."  This  large  stone  was  so  overhanging  on  the  side  to- 
wards Orniein,  that  it  formed  an  excellent  shelter  for  the  traveller  to  rest 
and  light  his  Livouac  fire.  Occasionally  the  "Leaning  Stone "  brought  to 
mind  the  "  Druids'  Stone  "  we  once  sketched,  at  Stanton,  near  Monmouth ; 
bometimes  it  reminds  us  of  the  famous  "  Boulder,  or  Bowder  Stone,"  in  the 
romantic  gorge  of  Borrowdale,  near  "  Castle  Crag  "  and  Derwent  "Water,  in 
Cumberland ;  but  the  "  Bowder  Stone  "  has  this  difference,  that  it  over- 
hangs on  both  sides,  and  has  a  narrow  aperture  underneath,  through  which 
two  persons  or  lovers,  joining  hands,  it  is  said,  will  have  their  secret  wish. 
Perhaps  the  Leaning  Stone  of  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Sjiriaglns  has 
some  such  mystic  power — who  knows?  "We  leave  it  to  some  other 
Wanderer  over  fjeld  and  fjord  to  discover. 


\ 


UNCOMFORTABLE  BED.  259 

wet  in  the  morning.     Noah  had  no  change  of  trousers. 

Zachariah's  were  soon  smoked  and  singed,  as  the  legs 

were  stretched  oiit  on  two  crossed  sticks  fastened  together, 

giving  them  the  appearance  of  a  mawkin  to  frighten  the 

birds.     Ultimately,  at  bed -time,  it  was  stuck  up  within 

the  tents  near  the  water-cans  and  other  things.    As  we 

were  going  to  sleep,  the  unfortunate  mawkin  fell  down 

^vith  a  tremendous  clatter  amongst  the  cans.  Noah  said  it 

was  a  ghost.     Zachariah  pushed  it  at  Noah.     Noah  sent 

it  spinning  at  Zachariah.    "  Now  then,  Abel !  "    "  Here, 

Lucas!"     Bang  went  the  mawkin  into  the  pans  again. 

We  got  up  to  lay  the  ghost,  and  ejected  the  mawkin 

forcibly  from  the  tent ;  but  in  doing  so  our  le^  accidentally 

caught  a   can  full   of  water,  which  emptied  itself  into 

Zachariah's  blankets.     Zachariah's  hilarity  was  at  once 

damped.     As  we  turned  to  go  to  sleep,  we  heard  him  in 

loud  lamentation  about  his  uncomfortable  state,  which  he 

had  partly  originated. 

It  was  very  wet  the  next  morning.  We  awoke  at  seven, 
and  somehow  fell  asleep  again.     The  gipsies  would  sleep 
for  ever.  •    To  our  astonishment  it  was  ten  o'clock.     Our 
gipsies  got  frokost  ready  at  eleven  o'clock.     The  damp 
mist  gradually  cleared  from  the  mountains,  and  we  had 
tea,  fladbrod,  and  butter  for  breakfast.    Noah  and  Zacha- 
riah were  dispatched  after  breakfast  to  the  bondegaard 
they  had  been  to  on  the  previous  day,  and  returned  with 
a  mark's  worth  of  fladbrod  and  butter.    They  were  very 
kind  to  them  at  the  farm.     We  made  a  sketch  of  one  of 
the  peasants'  lonely  log-houses  of  the  valley,  whilst  Noah 
and  Zachariah  were  fishing  for  our  commissariat.     The 
narrow  road  winds  close   to  the   cottage  beneath  the 
broken  cliff.    A  snow  plough  lies  on  the  other  side  the 

s  2 


260  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

road. .  A  narrow  inclosure  separates  the  road  from  tlie 
Rauma. 

What  a  wild  solitary  existence  in  the  depth  of  winter's 
snow  must  the  peasant  owner  of  this  cottage  lead ! 

For  dinner  we  had  soup  made  of  ham,  peaflour,  wild 
sorrel,  rice,  Liebig's  essence,  and  the  dried  meat  of  Holiaker 
for  the  third  time.  We  tried  to  purchase  some  potatoes 
from  the  peasant  living  in  the  nearest  log  cottage  to  our 
camp,  but  he  had  none  ready  to  get  up.  The  musketos  had 
not  troubled  us  much  since  we  had  camped  in  the  valley ; 
but  we  had  met  with  two  large  black  ants,  or,  as  the 
gipsies  call  them,  "  creas,"  near  our  tent.  They  measured 
exactly  three-quarters  of  an  inch  long: 

After  dinner  we  all  went  out  fishing,  whilst  Esmeralda 
was  left  in  charge  of  the  tents.  Several  peasants  came  to 
look  at  the  donkeys  during  the  afternoon.  Some  travellers, 
hastily  proceeding,  stopped  their  stolkjerrers  and,  looking 
wildly  round,  hastened  to  where  the  donkeys  were  quietly 
grazing. 


CHAPTER  XXm. 

*'  He  checked  his  steed,  and  sighed  to  mark 
Her  coral  lips,  her  eyes  so  dark, 
And  stately  bearing — as  she  had  been 
Bied  up  in  courts,  and  bom  a  qneen. 
Again  he  came,  and  again  he  came,— • 
Each  day  with  a  warmer,  a  wilder  flame  ; 
And  still  again,— till  sleep  by  night. 
For  Judith's  sake,  fled  his  pillow  qnite.** 

Judithf  the  Oipsy  Belle,    "By  Dklta. 

MUSICAI*  PEASANT — CASCADES  —  THE  LEANING-STONE  —  THE  SERIOUS 
PEASANT — ^ZACHARIAH  ILL — NO  VENTILATION — THE  MAGICIAN's  PEAKS 
— THB  MAN0EH6e — "  RAMULOUS  "—ROMANTIC  VALLEY — AGREEABLE 
TISITOnS — THB  SERENADE — ^FUTURE  ROUTE — HORGHEIM — RIP  VAN 
WIKKLiE. 

The  young  peasant  who  played  the  concertina  came 
and  looked  at  the  fence  next  the  leaning-stone.  He 
probably  owned  the  adjoining  enclosed  land.  Esmeralda 
said  she  thought  he  seemed  doubtful  whether  part  of  his 
fence  had  not  gone  on  to  our  fire.  Esmeralda  at  once 
gave  him  some  brandy,  and  he  seemed  pleased,  and  went 
and  brought  her  a  large  heap  of  fire-wood.  Strict  in- 
junctions had  been  given,  that  the  dead  wood,  and  there 
was  plenty  of  it,  should  only  be  taken  from  the  adjoining 

bushes. 

A  party  of  English  travellers  passed  towards  Veblungs- 
noes,  and  another  towards  Christiania.  One  young  lady, 
who  saw  Noah  fishing,  asked  if  he  had  caught  any.    Our 


TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 


gipsies  retvimed  to  tea  at  eight  o'clock.  Plenty  of  fried 
trout,  tea,  fladbrod,  and  butter  formed  our  meaL  Zacia- 
riah  was  very  cold,  and  unwell  at  tea,  with  severe  ptun  in 
his  shoulders.  We  sent  him  to  bed,  and  rubbed  him  with 


T   LKAJIiaO-BtOKE,    SJIKUaUN. 


brandy,  and  gave  him  some  to  drink.  One  young  peasant 
came,  and  seemed  to  have  ridden  some  distance  to  see 
the  donkeys.  The  valley  of  our  camp  was  beautiful. 
Like  Rasselas,  we  seemed  completely  shut  in  from  the 


CASCADES.  263 

outer  world  ;  that  portion  of  the  valley  towards  Veb- 
luDgsnces,  by  the  Sjiriaglns  Fjeld,  which  forms  a  barrier 
of  three  lofty  bastions  of  rock,  jutting  forth  in  rugged  out- 
line, and  rounded  summit,  miarked  with  streaks  of  snow. 
Sterile  crags  of  dark  and  green  rock  have  here  and 
there  cascades,  falling  through  the  air,  from  the  highest 
summits  of  these  mural  precipices.  No  egress  seems  pos- 
sible from  below.  "White  fleecy  clouds  of  mist  gather  on  the 
upper  cliffs,  relieved  by  the  green  verdure  which  clothes 
the  sides  of  the  valley.  The  foliage  creeps  and  feathers 
up  the  high  ramparts  of  rock,  till  lost  in  the  regions  of 
desolation  and  sterility.  What  magnificent  waterfalls 
leap  forth  from  the  hidden  recesses  of  mist  and  cloud. 
They  fall  in  thick  white  foam,  are  scattered  in  floating 
spray,  glittering  in  a  myriad  of  spangles,  when  illumined 
by  the  passing  gleams  of  sun.  Down,  down,  the  white 
foam  falls  to  depths  far  beneath.  Birch-woods  mingled 
with  the  fir  stand  forth  from  their  mossy  beds,  and  line 
the  valley  with  the  richest  colouring.  The  gurgling  waters 
of  the  Eauma  wind  their  course  along,  fringed  at  the 
sides  with  birch  and  alder,*  wild  flowers,  grass,  and  fern. 

*  AJnus  glutinosa. — ^This  tree  is  often  met  with  on  the  banks  of  the 
Tiveis  of  England  and  Wales,  as  in  Norway.  Occasionally  we  have  met,  in 
a  sednded  vaUey  in  Walea^  a  party  of  "doggers,"  who  have  bouglit  a 
quantity  of  this  wood,  and  are  converting  it  on  the  spot  into  clogs.  They 
are  doggers  out  for  the  summer.  The  alder  wood  is  being  worked  up 
under  a  light  awning,  or  half-tent  sort  of  abri,  from  the  rain  and  sun.  The 
doggers  generally  sleep  at  some  house  until  the  stock  of  wood  is  converted 
into  men's,  women's,  and  children's  dogs,  which  are  consigned  from  time  to 
time,  by  the  nearest  railway,  to  Lancashire.  The  alder  wood  is  valuable 
for  piles  for  bridges,  as  it  lasts  long  under  water.  The  Rialto  at  Venice  is 
built  on  dder  pUes.  The  bark  and  leaves  are  useful  for  dyeing  and  tanning 
leather,  and  in  staining  sabots  in  France,  which  are  also  made  of  this 
wood.  Alder  wood  is  light  in  weight,  and  easily  worked.  The  dark 
bark  and  foliage  of  the  spreading  branches  of  the  tree,  which  overhangs 
the  river's  edge,  gives  picturesque  effect  to  many  a  Norwegian  rivejr  scene. 


264  TENT  LIFB  IN  NORWAY. 

Unceasing  moisture  gives  the  freshest  green,  and  a 
luxuriant  ground  of  varied  colour  carves  forth  a  natural 
setting,  to  the  romantic  woods  of  birch,  the  juniper,  and 
the  Norwegian  pine,  unrivalled  in  conception,  and  inimi- 
table by  the  art  of  man. 

About  eleven  o'clock  at  night  we  were  writing  these 
notes  by  the  leaning-stone,  near  the  remains  of  our  camp 
fire,  when  the  old  man  from  the  nearest  log  cottage  came 
up,  and  asked  what  o'clock  it  was.  As  he  came  noiselessly 
round  the  leaning-stone,  we  motioned  him  to  take  a  seat, 
on  a  loose  piece  of  rock  near  to  us.  When  he  sat  down 
we  noticed  that  he  was  one  of  those  deep-lined  featured 
men,  who  seem  worn  by  exposure  and  hard  living.  Telling 
him  the  hour,  he  looked  curiously  at  our  gold  watch, 
which  we  at  once  showed  to  him.  This  was  supplemented 
by  a  glass  of  brandy,  and  some  tobacco,  with  which  he 
filled  his  pipe.  As  he  sat  by  the  embers  of  our  fire,  in 
answer  to  some  questions  about  the  winters  in  Norway, 
the  peasant  looked  fixedly,  and  earnestly  at  us,  and  said, 
"  Meget  kalt,  meget  ice,  meget  snee,"  and  he  raised  his 
hand  high  above  the  ground.  The  tone  in  which  he 
slowly  said  these  words,  in  deep-marked  emphasis,  we 
shall  not  easily  forget.  Many  of  his  countrymen,  he 
said,  went  to  America.  The  peasant  then  asked 
about  England,  and  its  climate.  He  told  us  there  were 
many  reindeer,  and  he  went  affcer  them  into  the  mountains. 
No  one  was  allowed  to  shoot  them  from  the  Ist  April  to 
the  1st  August  He  remained  sitting  with  us,  and 
talking  by  the  large  stone.  At  last  he  suddenly  asked 
what  o'clock  it  was,  and  when  we  told  him  the  hour,  he 
wished  us  good  night,  and  departed.  It  was  nearly  twelve 
o'clock  when  we  went  to  bed. 


NO  VENTILATION.  265 

DuTiBg  the  night  Zachariah  was  groaning  and  com- 
plaining ;    his   head  was  veiy  bad,  and  his  stomach. 
Noah  was  up  at  twenty  minutes  past  four  o'clock,  and  he 
had  breaMast  ready  at  twenty  minutes  to  five  o'clock. 
We  gave  Zachariah  a  hot  glass  of  brandy-and-water  with 
sugar.     Our  breakfast  consisted  of  the  remainder  of  our 
trout  and  grayling.     Zachariah  could  take  very  little  to 
cat  or  drink.     The  morning  was  fine,  the  sun  just  tipped 
the  edge  of  the  mountains  above  the  vaUey.   We  decided 
to  go  if  Zachariah  could  be  removed,  when  the  sun  had 
reached  us  in  the  valley     We  got  Zachariah  out,  and 
placed  him  in  a  snug  comer  under  the  leaning-stone, 
Avhilst  the  tents  were    struck,  for  it  was  about  eight 
0  clock.     When  near  the   river,   a  tall  young  English 
traveller  passed,  who  was  anxious  to  catch  the  steamer 
at  VeblungsnoBS,   and,    saying   the    scenery    was    the 
finest  he  had  seen,  asked  if  we  had  caught  many  fish. 
He  was  soon  after  followed  by  a  traveller  in  another  car- 
riole, whom  we  took  to  be  his  friend.   The  donkeys  being 
loaded,  we  placed  Zachariah  on  the  packs  of  one,  and 
were  leaving,  when  a  man  came  up  just  in  time  to  see 
the  donkeys,  with  which  he  was  much  delighted.     We 
left  him  sitting  on  a  rock  watching  us  as  we  went  out 
of  sight. 

The  Sim  became  clouded  before  we  had  proceeded  far 
down  the  valley.  The  two  first  cottages  we  passed  were 
shut  up,  but  at  the  third  we  saw  a  peasant  woman,  who 
seemed  much  pleased  when  we  gave  her  an  empty  bottle. 
The  three  small  homesteads  of  this  part  of  the  valley 
were  of  the  most  humble  description — far  inferior  to  an 
out-building,  or  hovel  of  some  of  our  second-rate  farms  in 
England    Ventilation  m  sciarcely  ever  thought  of,  and 


TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

cleanliness  much  neglected.  We  were  told  that  a  clever 
scientific  Norwegian  gentleman  had  lately  given  especial 
attention  to  this  subject,  and  had  written  upon  the  sani- 
tary condition  of  the  Norwegian  people.  It  rained 
heavily  as  we  passed  through  a  succession  of  narrow  and 
romantic  glens,  of  the  valley  of  the  Rauma,  The  peasants 
collected  as  usual  with  unabated  interest  to  see  our 
donkeys.  Purchasing  a  mark  of  fladbrod  and  butter  at 
one  place,  and  a  mark's  worth  of  butter  at  another,  we 
passed  "Kors,"  and  at  a  large  house  which  we  be- 
lieved to  be  the  Fladmark  Post  Station,  they  came  up 
to  the  road,  and  grass  was  placed  for  the  donkeys  to 
refresh  themselves.  They  all  seemed  to  give  us  a  friendly 
welcome.  The  Rauma  formed  most  picturesque  falls 
and  torrents  along  its  rough  and  broken  course.  Some- 
times we  passed  through  pine  woods  on  its  rocky  shelving 
banks,  and  at  other  times  through  the  cultivated  land  of 
some  Bondegaard.  As  we  travelled  onwards  all  was  en- 
closed from  the  road,  and  though  inclined  to  halt  for 
dinner,  we  could  not  find  one  convenient  place.  Our 
gipsies,  notwithstanding  the  dismal  weather,  were  as 
lively  as  usual,  and  wandered  at  times  from  the  road  in 
search  of  wUd  strawberries,  cranberries,  and  bilberries. 
They  had  a  plentiful  harvest  of  bilberries,  and  even 
Zachariah's  voice  lost  much  of  the  melancholy  of  its  tone. 
At  length  we  entered  a  wild  valley  shut  in  on  the  left  by 
Troldtinderne,  commonly  translated  into  English  as  the 
"  witches'  peaks,"  but  we  were  informed  by  an  excellent 
authority  that  the  translation  should  be  the  "  magician's 
peaks."  Nothing  could  be  more  wild  and  picturesque  in 
outline.  In  front,  as  we  advanced,  rose  the  magnificent 
single  peak  of  steep  gray  rock  called  the  Romsdalshom, 


THE  MAKGESOK  267 

rising  to  its  lofty  height  from  the  hanging  crags  which 
formed  a  massive  wall  of  rock  to  the  valley  in  the  dis- 
tance below.  On  our  right  the  dark  precipices  of  the 
Mangehoe  rendered  the  valley  narrow  and  secluded.  It 
was  impossible  not  to  feel  the  wild  grandeur  of  the  scene. 
The  broken  barren  ground  forming  a  hillock  below  the 
precipice  of  the  Mangehoe  seemed  just  suited  for  our 
camp.  At  a  house  beyond,  the  peasants  were  collecting 
in  the  road  to  see  us  pass,  and,  taking  Noah,  we  asked  if 
we  coidd  camp.  A  man  said, "  Ya,  ya."  The  donkeys  were 
at  once  turned  from  the  road  across  some  rough  ground. 
The  hillock  in  sight  of  the  road  was  gained,  and  our  tents 
pitched  in  the  heavy  rain.  Peasants — ^men,  women,  and 
children — collected  to  see  us.  Some  well-dressed  boys 
also  came,  and  may  have  belonged  to  a  pleasant  resi- 
dence, across  the  Bauma,  which  we  had  seen  before 
coming  to  our  camp.  It  was  with  difficulty  we  could 
moderate  the  loud  energy  of  our  gipsy  housekeeper  ;  in- 
deed she  required  a  very  heavy  curb  to  repress,  at  times, 
the  too  boisterous  spirits  of  her  wUd  free  heart.  Our 
tents  being  pitched,  our  middag's  mad  was  prepared. 
The  Australian  meat  was  excellent  as  usual,  and  fladbrod 
and  butter  completed  the  meal  The  butter  we  had 
bought  at  the  farm  en  route  was  not  good.  Our  gipsies 
pronounced  it  bad,  and  it  was  ordered  to  be  used  for 
frying  purposes.  This  was  the  only  instance  when  we 
had  met  with  indifferent  butter ;  at  other  times  we  found 
the  Norwegian  butter  exceedingly  good. 

The  woman  of  the  nearest  house  showed  Zachariah 
where  he  could  get  water  for  our  tea,  and  we  bought  from 
her  two  pounds  of  very  good  butter  for  two  marks,  six  eggs 
for  twelve.  skiUings,  some  milk  eight  skiUings,  cream  six 


268  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOBWAY. 

skillings,  and  £rom  another  woman  a  small  goats'  cheese 
eighteen  skillings. 

In  the  evening  we  had  tea,  and  fladbrod,  and  the  goats' 
cheese.  The  cheese  was  good  of  the  kind,  .but  the  gipsies 
pronounced  it  "  ramulous/'  It  is  not  unusual  to  find  in 
those  classes  of  people,  who  may  be  said  to  be  poor, 
proneness  to  criticise  what  is  placed  before  them,  and 
often  to  have  a  greater  want  of  economy  than  many  who 
have  been  accustomed  to  plenty.  In  this  instance  we 
spoke  in  its  favour,  and  said  it  was  good  enough  for 
our  camp,  and  in  a  day  or  two  the  gipsies  took  a  great 
fancy  to  it,  and  in  a  very  short  time  it  was  aU  eaten. 

After  tea  we  gave  the  peasants,  who  collected  at  our 
tents,  some  music.  How  we  enjoyed  the  picturesque 
scene ;  wild  nature  seems  to  give  singular  inspiration. 
The  music  of  a  mountain  land  has  a  melody  peculiar  to 
itself.  It  seems  to  come  forth  fix)m  the  deepest  recesses 
of  the  heart, — those  fine  vibrations  in  nature,  which  seem 
but  the  echoes  of  other  worlds.  First  we  sang  them  our 
gipsy  song  with  violin,  and  guitar  accompaniment ;  then 
the  "  Mocking  Bird."  Afterwards  we  played  a  number 
of  airs.  Sometimes  we  played  the  tambourine  with  the 
gipsies,  sometimes  the  castanets.  It  rained,  but  what 
cared  the  Norwegian  peasants  for  rain  ?  There  they  sat 
till  about  ten  o'clock,  when  we  told  them  that  after  two 
more  tunes  we  should  go  to  bed.  The  music  ceased  ;  a 
kindly  good  night,  and  they  left  our  camp.  Then  we 
watched  the  splendid  outlines  of  the  magician's  peaks 
above  us,  in  the  silent  night,  the  stillness  was  only  broken 
by  the  loud  rumbling  sound  of  falling  snow  from  some 
shelving  ledge,  to  the  rocks  beneath.  As  we  sur- 
veyed the   lofty   "Skulnablet"   above  the   Eauma,  we 


AQREEABLE    VISITORS.  269 

decided  to  tiy  some  part  of  the  Eomsdalshom  or  adjacent 
mountains  if  the  next  morning  was  fine.  We  retired  to 
our  tent,  with  all  the  pleasure  of  one  who  enjoys  re- 
freshing repose  in  the  midst  of  nature. 

It  rained  in  the  morning,  and  we  could  not  attempt  a 
mountain  ascent  About  nine  o'clock  we  had  breakfast, 
and  sent  Noah  and  2iachariah  off  to  the  Bauma  fishing 
for  our  commissariat.  We  had  tea,  boiled  milk,  and  flad- 
brod  and  butter  for  breakfast  The  gipsies  caught  some 
fish  for  dinner, — ^Noah  10  and  Zachariah  9,  one  being 
a  grayling  one  foot  two  inches  long*  The  morning  was 
showery,  and  we  wrote  letters  in  our  tent  to  post  at 
Veblungsnces ;  Esmeralda  was  cooking  dinner.  We  noticed 
a  young  lady  looking  at  our  donkeys  with  the  peasant 
boy  from  her  stolkjaerre ;  very  soon  afterwards  she  came 
up  to  our  tents,  with  her  three  sisters  and  a  taU  young 
gentleman,  lier  brother, — he  did  not  appear  in  very  strong 
health.  They  spoke  to  Esmeralda,  and  then  looked  into 
our  tent,  where  we  were  writing  our  letters,  we  bowed, 
and  they  seemed  rather  surprised  at  the  interior  comfort 
of  our  tent.  Then  taking  one  of  our  gipsy  songs,  we  pre- 
sented it  to  one  of  the  young  ladies ;  she  seemed  much 
pleased  at  the  unexpected  present,  and  they  tried  to  sing  it 
to  a  tune.  Taking  our  guitar  we  sang  them  the  song ; 
their  brother  took  off  his  hat  when  we  concluded  As  we 
were  sitting  in  our  tent,  they  sang  a  Norwegian  song  very 
nicely  together.  The  incident  gave  us  much  pleasure,  as 
it  was  unexpected ;  one  sister  spoke  English,  she  had  a 
brother  a  clergyman  on  board  some  vessel  in  England,  so 
Esmeralda  informed  us.  They  had  not  long  left  when 
the  boy  came  back  with  the  song,  and  a  note  on  the 
back  ip  pencil  with  Miss  M.'s  compliments,  asking  us  to 


1 


HOBGHEIM.  271 

10  o'clock ;  before  we  reached  the  station  of  Horgheun 
we  were  overtaken  by  the  Miss  M — s  and  their 
brother ;  they  had  been  to  see  the  waterfall  near  Ormein  ; 
we  came  up  with  them  again  at  Horgheim,  and  asked 
their  advice  about  our  route  from  Veblungsnoes  over  the 
mountains.  In  answer  to  our  inquiries,  they  said  gipsies 
were  sometimes  seen  about  Veblungsnoes ;  when  they  were 
told  our  gipsies'  names  and  ages,  they  were  much  pleased 
with  the  name  of  Esmeralda.  The  young  lady,  who  spoke 
English,  said  that  Mr.  Sundt  had  interested  himself  very 
much,  with  the  gipsies,  and  had  written  upon  the  sub- 
ject! We  told  them  we  had  a  resumS  of  Proesten  Sundt's 
works,  and  were  also  very  much  interested  on  behalf  of 
the  gipsy  people. 

They  told  us  they  were  going  to  take  steamer  at 
Veblungsnoes,  and  passed  us  soon  after  we  left  Horgheim. 
As  we  followed  the  road  round  the  base  of  the  Eoms- 
dalshom,  we  came  to  some  waste  ground  open  to  the 
road,  and  partly  covered  with  bushes.  The  donkeys  were 
driven  to  a  shady  spot  near  a  small  stream  of  water. 
The  Magician's  peaks  rose  immediately  above  us ;  at 
irregular  intervals,  we  heard  about  its  summits  a  noise 
hke  distant  thunder,  the  sound  was  produced  by  falling 
masses  of  snow  loosened  by  the  summer  sun ;  we  could 
ahnost  imagine  ourselves  in  the  Catskill  Mountains,  where 
Kp  Van  Winkle  met  Hudson  and  his  spectre  band.  A 
witchery  seemed  to  hang  about  those  grey  fantastic 
peaks.  The  middags-mad  consisted  of  fried  cheese,  tea, 
fladbrod  and  butter,  and  potted  tongue.  We  can  assure 
our  readers  that  few  can  realize  the  luxury  of  lounging 
on  soft  mossy  .turf,  after  a  pleasant  meal,  though  simple 
it  may  be,  near  a  rippling  stream,  shaded  from  the 


272  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORIVA  Y. 

mid-day  sun,  at  the  foot  of  lofty  and  pictiiresque  motin- 
tains.  Half  listless  and  dreamy,  we  gazed  on  the  smgolar 
outUnes  of  the  Magician's  peaks ;  a  tliousand  spells  of 
enchantment  seemed  to  chain  the  spirit  to  an  absence 
from  all  care,  trouble,  anxiety,  and  woe,  which  is  wearing 
to  the  grave  three  parts  of  the  mortals  of  this  world! 
All  our  gipsies  were  at  once  in  a  delicious  state  of 
ijnconsciousness,  in  ttimbled  heaps,  as  part  of  the  bag- 
gage, lying  on  the  turf  around. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

"For  the  dance,  no  mnaic  can  be  better  than  that  of  a  gipey  band  ; 
there  is  a  life  and  animation  in  it  which  carries  yon  away.     If  you 
Ikave  danced  to  it  yourself,  especially  in  a  czardas,  then  to  hear  the 
stirring  tones  without  inTolontarily  springing  op,  is,  I  assert,  an  abso- 
lute impossibility."* 

Bovsii*s  Transylvania^ 

THJB    INVA.LI1>  —  BESTTVB   DONRETS  —  FIVA  —  AAK  —  VEBLUNGflN<E8  —  THE 
NORWEGIAN     FARMER — THE     0RAS8T    KNOLL — ^A    NORWEGIAN    TOWN — 

THE    fjord's    shore — THE    VEBLUNGSNCES'  BATHS — ^HERR    SOLBERG 

HOMME  GALANT — MUSICAL  CONVERSAZIONE — GIPST  MUSIC. 

Supremely  happy  in  our  wandering  existence,  we  con- 
trasted, in  our  semi-consciousness  of  mind,  our  absence 
from  a  thousand  anxious  cares,  which  crowd  upon  the 
social  position,  of  those  who  take  active  part,  in  an  over- 
TVTought  state  of  extreme   civilization.     How  long  we 

*  What  IB  meant  by  a  czardas,  or  csdrdds,  as  it  is  usually  spelt  in  the 
Hungarian  language  ?    It  is  a  celebrated  Hungarian  dance.     The  Magyar 
peasant  seldom  dances  anything  else.    The  csard^  is  a  national  dance  of 
Hungary,  as  much  as  the  sailors'  hornpipe  is  of  England.     We  give  the 
foUowing  description  of  the  csdrdds,  from  the  interesting  work  of  Arthur  J. 
Patterson,  "  The  Magyars  ;  their  Country  and  Institutions,"  vol.  i,  p.  194, 
published  by  Messrs.  Smith,  Elder  &  Co.  in  1859  : — "  Its  name  is  the  ad- 
jective form  from  "  cs4rd4,"  which  designates  a  solitary  public  house ;  an 
institution  which  plays  a  considerable  part  in  all  romantic  poems  or  ro- 
mantic novels  whose  scene  is  laid  in  Himgary,  as  a  fitting  haunt  for 
brigands,  horse-thieves,  gipsies,  Jews,  political  refugees,  strolling  players, 
vagabond  poets,  and  other  melodramatic  personages.    The  music  of  the 
csard^  is  at  first  slow,  solemn,  and,  I  may  say,  melancholy.    After  a  few 
bars,  it  becomes  livelier,  which  character  it  then  keeps  up,  occasionally 


274  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

should  have  continued  our  half-dormant  reflections, 
which  might  have  added  a  few  more  notes  upon  the 
philosophy  of  life,  we  know  not,  but  we  were  roused  by 
the  rumble  of  a  stolkjaerre  along  the  road ;  it  was  quite 
time  we  moved  on  towards  Veblungsnoes,  and  the  gipsies 
began  to  get  our  things  together.  The  stolkjaerre  stopped. 
A  tall  pale  invalid  man  descended ;  he  struggled  through 
the  bushes  to  where  we  were,  though  the  exertion  evi- 
dently cost  him  much,  but  he  conquered ;  he  came,  and 
he  saw  the  donkeys.  A  faint  smile  lighted  up  a  coun- 
tenance, expressive  in  its  deep-lined  features,  of  a  once 
firm  and  determined  will,  but  now  marked  with  the  last 
stage  of  consumption.  Enveloped  and  wrapped  up  in  dark 
clothes,  wearing  gloves,  long  boots  nearly  to  his  knees, 
although  in  the  height  of  summer,  he  surveyed  with  a 
quiet  smile  our  donkeys,  ourselves,  our  gipsies,  and  our 
baggage.  He  had  a  female  with  him  whose  countenance 
was  the  exact  expression  of  anxious  care,  and  a  young 
*  man  who  seemed  astonished  at  the  weight  of  the  baggage. 
What  was  to  be  done  to  show  our  hospitality.  Lucky 
thought;  out  came  the  quinine,  a  small  tiunbler  filled 
with  water,  and  the  white  powder  was  mixed  in  it ;  we 
intimated  that  it  might  be  of  benefit.     Poor  fellow !  he 

becoming  very  fast  indeed,  and  at  last  ends  in  a  delirious  whirl  of  con- 
fusion.    The  movements,  of  course,  correspond.     The  dance  openis  with  a. 
stately  promenade  ;  then,  as  the  music  quickens,  each  couple  take  a  tw^irl 
or  two,  and  breaking  away  brusquely  from  one  another,  continue  a  series  of 
pantomimic  movements,  now  approaching  coquettishly  like  parted  lovers 
desiring  reconciliation  ;  then,  as  if  the  lady  thought  she  had  given  suffi- 
cient encouragement,  she  retreats  with  rapid  but  measured  steps,  while  her 
partner  pursues,  and,  gradually  gaining  on  her,  again  seizes  her  waist ;  they 
whirl  swiftly  round  two  or  three  times,  and  then,  breaking  away,  continue 
the    pantomime  as  before.    What  makes  the  csdrd^s    unrivalled    is    its 
variety.    One  seldom  sees  the  couples  perform  exactly  the  same  figure  at 
the  same  time.'' 


FIVA.  275 

wanted  a  strength-giving  potent  draught;  it  could  do 
him  no  harm,  it  might  do  him  some  good.  Taking  a  sip 
ourselves,  and  handing  it  to  him,  he  drank  it  every  spot. 
How  did  he  know  that,  like  Rip  Van  Winkle,  he  might 
not  have  fallen  in  with  another  Hudson  and  his  band, 
and  would  sleep  for  twenty  years  beneath  the  shadow  of 
the  Magician's  peaks.  The  tall,  careworn-looking  man 
handed  me  back  the  glass,  and  seemed  much  pleased.  We 
gave  him  the  tin  cannister  which  had  contained  our 
potted  tongue,  with  all  the  wonderful  hieroglyphics 
generally  scrolled  outside :  it  was  a  parting  souvenir  of 
the  nomads.  Just  as  he  had  turned  to  go,  the  tamo-rye 
made  a  dash  through  the  bushes,  with  Zachariah  and 
Esmeralda  dragging,  fighting  and  struggling  with  him ; 
crash,  crash  went  the  bushes  close  by  us ;  the  invalid  was 
nearly  frightened  out  of  his  boots.  What  did  he  know 
about  these  animals,  and  what  habits  of  ferocity  they 
might  possess  ?  The  contention  was  fierce  between  the 
tamo-rye  and  oul-  gipsies,  imtil  he  was  brought  to  the 
baggage  for  loading.  The  invalid  struggled,  with  un- 
steady gait,  through  the  bushes,  and,  with  the  aid  of  his 
female  attendant,  ascended  with  difficulty  into  his  stolk- 
jaerre,  which  was  immediately  driven  away.  He  escaped 
the  fate  of  Kip  Van  Winkle  ;  may  the  draught  he  took 
under  the  Magician's  peaks  give  him  health  for  twenty 
years.  Some  young  woodcutters,  with  axes  in  their  hands, 
came  up  as  we  were  starting ;  they  accompanied  us  along 
the  road.  On  our  left  across  the  Eauma,  we  noticed  a  large 
pleasant  residence  called  "  Fiva."  The  woodcutters'  said 
it  was  the  property  and  residence  of  Mr.  Bromley  Daven- 
\)OTt  and  a  Mr.  Ingram.  They  must  have  a  splendid 
\iew   from   the   house  toward   the   Eomsdalshorn;   we 

T  2 


270  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

were  informed  that  three  farms  had  been  purchased  Ly 
the  owner  along  the  banks  of  the  Bauma,  which  made 
the  fishing  very  complete.  The  salmon  in  the  Rauma 
do  not  ascend  above  Ormein.  The  situation  of  "  Fiva "  is 
admirable ;  the  various  bends  and  windings  of  the  river 
round  the  estate  are  full  of  rapids  and  pools,  that  would 
have  delighted  the  English  father  of  all  anglers,  Isaac 
Walton. 

The  valley  now  became  more  fertile.  We  passed 
through  pleasant  grassy  meads.  Our  woodcutters  went  to 
some  houses  on  the  roadside.  We  met  several  stolk- 
jserrers,  whose  horses  were  rather  shy  in  passing  our 
donkeys.  The  peasants  manifested  the  same  curiosity 
about  them.  Now  the  valley  assumed  a  more  smiling 
aspect,  and  we  came  in  sight  of  Aak  "  Lehnsmoend/ 
Andreas  Landmark's  House.  The  Hotel  Aak  is  seven 
miles  from  Horgheim,  and  three  from  Veblungsnoes.  As 
we  saw  the  comfortable  wooden  house  standing  on  a  rise 
of  ground  above  the  road,  with  a  diversity  of  green  slopes 
and  shady  woods  about  it,  we  knew  it  to  be  the  spot  men- 
tioned by  Lady  Diana  Beauclerk  in  such  high  terms  of 
commendation.  In  contrast  with  the  wild  valleys  we 
had  left,  it  seemed  a  sort  of  oasis  in  the  desert 

When  we  passed  Aak,  some  ladies  who  saw  our  party 
ran  down  from  the  house  to  see  us ;  but  a  turn  of  the 
road  soon  hid  us  from  them.  Crossing  two  bridges,  and 
passing  a  large  comfortable  house,  we  ascended  the  steep 
hill  to  a  rise  of  ground  above  Veblungsnoes.  Then  pass- 
ing through  a  gate  upon  the  road,  we  saw  a  quiet  lane 
through  some  waste  ground  covered  with  bushes,  where 
we  told  Esmeralda  and  Zachariah  to  stay  with  the  don- 
keys.    Taking  Noah,  we  went  to  reconnoitre  for  a  camp- 


VEBLUNQSXOSS.  277 

iiig  ground.  Very  soon  we  came  to  the  edge  of  the 
descent  to  Veblungsnces.  Pausing  a  moment  to  look  at 
the  wooden  church  and  town  below,  we  went  to  the  left, 
across  a  large  space  of  open  ground  used  as  a  drill-ground 
for  the  Militia;  and,  after  looking  at  a  large  wooden 
building  erected  for  military  stores,  we  went  down  a  lane 
to  a  gate,  through  which  we  saw  several  men  and  women 
raking  up  new-mown  hay.  This  quiet  spot  formed  a 
sort  of  knoll,  above  a  small  dingle,  at  the  back  of  the 
bondegaard. 

A  green  slope,  and  wooded  mountain,  rose  abruptly 
from  the  other  side  of  the  stream.     This  seemed  a  haven 
of  rest,  ajB  Veblungsnces  was  to  be  our  farthest  point  of 
travel  north,  our  Ultima  Thule.     At  once  we  entered, 
and  going  up  to  the  farmer's  son,  as  we  rightly  took  him 
to  be,  we  proposed  to  come  there  and  camp.    Very  much 
astonished  he  seemed.     When  he  recovered  his  breath,  he 
said    something  about  his  father,  and  went   with   us 
towards   the  bondegaard.     The  farmers   house  was  of 
the  better  class,  and  substantially  built  of  wood.     We 
entered  a  kind  of  family  room,  where  the  master  and  his 
wife  were  seated  at  table,  taking  milk,  and  raw  dried 
salmon  cut  in  slices  on  their  fladbrod.    The  bonde  was 
dressed  in  dark   clothes,   being  upwards  of  sixty;   of 
respectable  appearance,  weather-worn  countenance,  with 
sharp  angular  features,  at  once  expressive  of  shrewdness 
and  cupidity.     In  social  relations  of  life,  he  was  a  very 
respectable  man.     Of  generosity  he  had  none  in  his  com- 
position— one  who  would  drive  a  hard  bargain  to  the 
uttermost  farthins:. 

The  farmer  came  with  us  to  the  gate  in  a  sort  of  be- 
wildered state.     It  was  a  fine  scene  as  he  came  along 


278  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

with  his  son  and  a  retinue  of  peasants  and  peasant  ^rls 
holding  rakes  in  their  hands.  Then  there  was  the  con- 
sultation at  the  gate  opening  to  the  junction  of  two 
deserted  lanes.  Our  imperfect  Norsk  was  aided  by  signs ; 
but  we  plunged  through,  with  Noah  standing  as  .a  sort  of 
aide-de-camp  waiting  for  orders. 

A  consideration  was  mentioned.  "Ah!  a  consideration ! 
money  penge/  ha,  money  penge!  The  silver  key!" 
The  donkeys  must  be  seen.  Noah  soon  had  them  down 
with  his  peculiar  whistle.  The  old  man's  eyes  twinkled 
as  he  surveyed  them.  A  consideration !  we  saw  crossing 
his  mind,  as  the  hero  in  Hans  Breitman's  ballad, "  He 
stood  all  shpell-pound."  The  donkeys  were  driven  up  to 
the  knoll,  and  our  things  were  unloaded  down. 

"Well,"  thought  we,  "  if  we  have  to  pay,  we  shall  have 
strict  privacy — private  ground ! " 

The  hay  was  cleared  oflF  the  knoll,  the  tents  pitched  ; 
the  donkeys  were  put  up  in  the  wood  above  the  mown 
elope,  on  to  the  other  side  the  dingle.  Esmeralda  said 
an  officer,  whom  she  designated  as  the  Conmiandant  of 
VeblungsncBS,  had  passed  them  near  the  gate,  and  was 
a  very  pleasant  gentleman,  who  lived  in  the  large  house 
we  had  passed  near  the  bridges. 

Eggs  and  bread  could  not  be  purchased  at  the  farm. 
Some  visitors  came  to  our  tents  after  tea;  amongst 
others,  Mr.  L.,  of  the  telegraph  office,  who  said  he  should 
be  glad  to  give  us  any  assistance.  Our  visitors  did  not 
stay  late,  and  we  retired  to  rest  at  an  early  hour. 

It  is  Friday,  the  22nd  July.  The  morning  being  wet, 
we  did  not  rise  very  early.  Taking  Noah  and  Zachariah, 
we  left  our  camp  for  Veblungsnoes,  at  about  three  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon.     Passing  from  the  bondegaard,  across 


THE  FJORjyS  SHORE,  279 

some  open  arable  fields,  to  an  avenue  of  trees,  we 
entered  under  its  shade  into  a  small  wooden  town. 
Passing  up  the  main  street,  we  soon  found  ourselves  in  a 
kind  of  conglomeration  of  houses,  with  short  lanes  having 
no  continuance.  One  open  space  represented  a  kind  of 
square.  Alleys,  at  occasional  angles,  debouched  to  the 
waters  of  the  Isfjord,  which  partly  surrounds  the  town. 
Veblungsnoes  is  the  port  of  Eomsdal.  Though  we  could 
not  account  for  it,  we  were  at  once  interested  in  the  place. 
There  was  a  charm  about  its  silent  quaintness  which  made 
us  linger  with  pleasure. 

The  telegraph  office  was  closed  till  four  o'clock.    Ve- 
blungsnoes evidently  was  buried  in  its  siesta.    The  siesta, 
or  kief,  in  mid-day  is  claimed  by  the  inhabitants  of  many 
northern  countries.  The  tradesmen  would  be  quite  offended 
if  you  went  to  their  shops  in  their  mid-day  hours  of  refresh- 
ment and  repose.    How  different  from  the  American  style 
of  one,  two,  gulp,  and  gone !    No  busy  scenes  or  people 
met  our  view.    The  extreme  quietude  of  the  town  seemed 
to  communicate  itself,  and  exercise  its  influence  on  the 
spirit.    At  times  we  imagined  we  were  in  a  large  ship  or 
timber-yard,  when  the  workmen  had  all  gone  to  dinner. 
Strolling  down  a  short  alley,  we  were  at  once  on  the 
strand  of  the  Is^ord.    Walking  along  the  water's  edge, 
we  could  not  help  admiring  the  beauty  of  the  evening 
scene.    No  one  was  visible.    One  small  fishing-boat,  partly 
drawn  up  on  the  beach,  was  just  ready  for  a  cruise.  Nets, 
everything — even  the  dried  fish,  probably  the  store  of 
provisions  for  the  fishermen  till  their  return — were  placed 
in  order.     Some  curious-looking  fish,  probably  rejected 
as  unsaleable,  were  lying  on  the  shingle.     One  had  green 
eyes,  with  its  mouth  in  its  throat ;  two  or  three  mouse- 


280  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

coloured  fish,  equally  singular  and  repulsive,  were  tlirown 
near.     It  is  strange  what  deformity  occurs  in  the  fish 
creation.     It  is  said  that  in  a  lake  in  Wales  the  fish  are 
all  deformed.     We  have  not  yet  verii&ed  the  fact.    Re- 
turning to  the  telegraph  oflfice,  we  saw  Mr.  L.     All  that 
he  could  do  to  render  our  stay  agreeable  he  did.    Our 
future  route  was  discussed,  and  it  seemed  quite  clear  that 
it  would  be  impossible  to  reach  Christiansand  before  the 
end  of  the  summer  season.     The  idea  that  our  party 
might  take  l)aths  next  occurred  to  us ;  not  that  we  ex- 
pected to  find  anything  approaching  the  accommodation 
or  luxury  of  ancient  Rome.     Baths,  containing  hundreds 
of  seats  of  marble,  adorned  with  splendid  fi-escoes,  and 
whose  fittings  were  of  alabaster,  porphyry,  and  jasper, 
where   every  luxury  was  found  that   human  thought 
could  devise.*     What  the  baths  of  Veblungsnoes  would 
have  been  we  know  not ;   but  they  had  only  one,  the 
spreading  waters  of  the  Fjord,  before  us.   The  post-office 
was  in  the  main  street,  and  kept  by  polite  and  kindly 
people.      The  postage  of  each  letter  to  England  cost 
twelve  skillings,  and  those  to  France  fifteen  skiUings. 

*  The  splendid  vestiges  of  the  Boman  baths,  called  "  thermse,"  "  banios," 
or  hot  baths,  at  Borne,  attest  their  former  extent  and  magnificence.  The 
Eomans  began  their  bathing  with  hot  water,  and  ended  with  cold— the 
hot,  "  caldarium  ; "  the  tepid,  "  tepidarium  ; "  the  cold,  "  frigidarium." 
Vast  numbers  of  magnificent  baths  were  erected  by  the  Boman  emperors. 
They  had  spacious  porticos,  rooms  for  athletic  exercises,  haUs  for  tlie 
declamation  of  poets  and  the  lectures  of  philosophers.  Perhaps  the  moat 
interesting  remains  of  Boman  baths  in  England  are  those  discovered  in  the 
buried  city  of  Uriconium,  or  Wroxeter,  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Severn, 
about  six  miles  from  Shrewsbury,  in  Shropshire.  For  an  admirable  account 
of  this  city,  supposed  to  have  been  taken  by  force,  with  much  carnage, 
plundered,  and  burnt,  between  about  the  year  420  and  the  middle  of  the 
fifth  century,  we  refer  our  readers  to  a  work  of  great  antiquarian  research) 
published  in  1872,  entitled,  "  Uriconium  :  A  Historical  Accoimt  of  the 
Ancient  Boman  City,"  by  Thomas  Wright,  M.A,  F.S. A,  &c.,  and  also  io 


HOMME  QALANT.  281 

We  sent  a  telegram  to  the  Chevalier  to  announce  our 
safe  arrival ;  another  to  Kongsberg,  for  our  letters  to  be 
sent  to  Lorn.  It  was  also  mentioned  to  us  that  Herr 
Solberg,  of  Molde,  wished  very  much  to  take  photo- 
graphs of  our  donkeys  and  camp,  if  we  would  kindly 
consent.  We  were  even  offered  some  copies  without 
charge,  as  an  inducement.  The  news  of  the  day  was 
also  important ;  for  the  first  time  we  learned  that  France 
and  Prussia  had  declared  war,  and  England  would  be 
neutraL  Before  we  left  we  purchased  a  large  quantity 
of  bread,  which  Noah  took  into  his  possessicm.  Leaving 
the  quiet  little  town,  we  at  length  approached  our  tents, 
where  we  found  two  Norwegian  officers  seated  in  cheerful 
mood  talking  to  Esmeralda  at  the  tent  entrance. 

They  were  gayety  itself  as  they  reclined  on  the  green 
turf.  One  officer,  who  seemed  about  sixty,  had  all  the  man- 
ners of  the  "homme  galant,".  and  spoke  some  English. 
AVhen  they  saw  me  they  at  once  rose,  saluted,  and  left. 
Esmeralda  said  the  older  officer,  who  spoke  some  English, 
was  very  polite,  and  said  to  her,  **  How  do  you  manage 
with  four  men  ?  "    To  which  she  answered,  "  I  have  only 


the  concise  and  useful  woik, "  The  Koman  City  of  Uriconium,"  by  J. 
Corbet  Anderson.  We  believe  that  the  private  subscriptions,  although  con- 
siderable, which  have  been  collected  for  excavation,  are  now  aU  exhausted  ; 
and,  unless  Qovemment  aid  is  given,  it  is  improbable  that  the  excavations, 
however  interesting,  can  be  resumed.  The  number  of  relics  of  the  buried 
city,  a  very  small  portion  of  which  has  been  explored,  show  the  antiquarian, 
we  may  say,  historical  importance  of  further  research.  Bandall,  in  his  in- 
teresting and  beautifully  illustrated  work,  the  "  Severn  Valley,*'  published 
(1862)  by  Virtue,  says — "  As  excavations  proceed,  the  plan  of  the  city  un- 
folds itself.  .  .  .  The  forum,  the  baths,  the  market-place,  and  the  sites  of 
public  and  private  buildings  become  clear  ;*'  and  again  the  author  says, 
"but  with  ruins,  three  miles  in  circumference,  much  remains  to  be  explored. 

"  All  desolate  lies  Uriconium  now, 
The  dust  of  ages  piled  upon  his  brow/ 


282  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

three  men."  Then  the  officer  said,  "  Who  do  you  talk  to 
most — I  suppose  your  beloved  Mr.  Smith  ?  "  Esmeralda 
said  she  did  not  talk  to  anyone.  The  oflScer  then 
wanted  to  purchase  a  lock  of  her  hair ;  but  she  would  not 
let  him  have  any.  We  cannot  venture  to  dwell  on  his 
feelings  of  cruel  disappointment. 

We  were  much  pressed  by  the  people  of  the  farm  to 
give  them  some  music  in  a  large  room,  probably  used  as 
a  granary.  We  went  to  see  it  first.  The  room  was  large 
and  lofty  on  the  ground-floor.  We  consented  to  play  for 
them  at  nine  o'clock.  The  farmer  himself  we  saw  very 
seldom,  and  it  is  scarcely  probable  that  he  originated 
the  idea. 

An  English  gentleman  staying  at  Aak,  who  had  been 
to  the  telegraph  office,  came  to  our  camp,  and  sat  down 
in  our  tents.  From  his  intimate  knowledge  of  Norway, 
he  was  able  to  give  us  considerable  information.  It  was 
very  fortunate.  We  presented  him  with  a  copy  of  our 
gipsy  song,  before  he  left,  as  a  souvenir  of  our  camp. 

At  nine  o'clock,  chairs  having  been  placed  for  us,  we 
took  our  seats  and  commenced  playing,  ourself  the 
guitar,  Noah  the  tambourine,  and  Zachariah  his  violin. 
We  had  a  large  party — ^unexpectedly  so,  some  of  the 
officers  and  their  wives,  and  many  of  the  principal  in- 
habitants of  Veblungsnoes ;  and  we  had  not  anticipated 
more  persons  than  the  people  of  the  bondegaard.  Es- 
meralda was  left  in  charge  of  the  tents ;  but  our  visitors 
had  so  much  delicacy  that  directly  we  left  the  tent  no  one 
went  near  it.  •  What  a  scene  1  The  room  was  suddenly 
filled  with  dancers  and  visitors.  One  tall  young  officer, 
a  fine  young  fellow,  was  especially  active.  We  had  a 
favourite  polka  for  them,  which  we  afterwards  christened 


OIPSY  MUSia  283 


f< 


Veblungsnoes/'  Zachariah  put  all  his  gipsy  nerve  and 
feeling  into  his  music.  Nay,  our  Romany  Boshamengro, 
almost  rivalled,  if  he  did  not  surpass,  Bama  Mihali,  the 
celebrated  gipsy  violinist  of  Hungary.*  Even  Orpheus 
might  have  bit  his  lips ;  but  he  was  not  there.  All  that 
wild  gipsy  inspiration  could  do,  was  done — ^tones  that 
produced  a  whirl  of  sensation.  Noah  did  his  part  stoutly 
on  the  tambourine.  We  made  the  acquaintance  of  several 
very  pleasant  officers  and  others — one  or  two  we  had 
met  in  our  wanderings.    They  seemed  like  old  friends. 

Then  Esmeralda  came  and  played,  in  place  of  Noah, 
with  her  tambourine.  Between  the  dances  we  conversed 
as  well  as  we  could  with  the  officers  and  other  visitors. 
Mr.  L.  was  also  there.  The  Norwegian  officers  have 
much  military  smartness  about  them.  Many  of  them 
can  speak  French  or  English,  and  sometimes  botL  We 
always  found  them  gentlemen.  The  Militia  officers 
receive  regular  pay  all  the  year ;  their  men  are  only  paid 
whilst  on  duty.  The  Militia  men  we  saw,  were  fine  strong 
young  men,  capable  of  any  amount  of  endurance.  Such 
was  our  introduction  to  the  inhabitants  of  Veblungsnoes. 
We  saw  almost  aS  much  of  them,  as  if  we  had  made  a 
series  of  visits  to  their  houses.  At  the  same  time  we  had 
escaped  the  inconvenience  of  too  much  hospitality,  and 
stiU  more,  of  being  obliged  to  sit  in  close  warm  rooms. 


*  There  is  a  favourite  Hungarian  melody,  called  by  the  Magyars  the 
"  E4k6tzy,"  of  which  Paget,  in  his  comprehensive  work,  in  2  vols.,  "  Hun- 
gary and  Transylvania,"  published  in  1855,  says — "  I  am  now  more  than 
ever  convinced  that  none  but  a  gipsy  band  can  do  it  full  justice.  The  effect 
of  the  melancholy,  plaintive  sounds  with  which  it  begins,  increased  by  the 
final  discords  which  the  gipsies  introduce,  and  of  the  wild  burst  of  passion 
which  closes  it,  must  depend  as  much  on  the  manner  of  its  execution  as  on 
the  mere  composition. '^ 


284  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

^vhich,  to  one  accustomed  to  the  natural  saloons  of  the 
wild  forest,  is  at  any  time  a  very  severe  penajice.  In  the 
clear  light  of  a  Norwegian  evening,  the  younger  people 
danced  to  the  strains  of  our  wild  music ;  others  looked 
on,  and  conversed ;  all  seemed  to  enjoy  themselves.  Ten 
o'clock  came:  our  music  ceased.  Specially  requested, 
as  we  ]  eft,  we  seated  ourselves  on  a  slope  of  turf  near 
our  tents,  and  sang,  "The  Gipsy  Song,''  with  guitar 
accompaniment  They  seemed  pleased.  With  many 
adieux,  they  left.  So  ended  what  may  be  termed  our 
gipsy  conversazione  at  Veblungsnoes. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Where  is  the  little  gipey'e  home  f 

Under  the  spreading  greenwood  tree, 

WhereTer  she  may  roam, 

Where*er  that  tree  may  be  ; 

Roaming  the  world  o'er. 

Crossing  the  deep  blue  sea^ 

She  finds  on  eveiy  shore 

A  home  among  the  free  ! 

A  home  among  the  free, 

Ah,  Yoilk  la  gitana,  Yoilk  la  gitana. 

Dronna  of  *  *  Notre  Dame, "    By  H  ALunir. 

PURCHASES — ZACHARIAH's  TBOUBLE — ESKERALDA'b    PHO  TOORAPH — THE 

KIOD PRICE    OP    MEAT — THE   YACHTSMEN — THE    THREE  PEAKS — THE 

BPIRIT-WORLD  —  PR08T  BITES — ULTIMA  THULE — ESMERALDA  OAL- 
VANISKD— -THE  FJORD— HEEN  KIRKE — ^PARELIUS  —  EIDER  DUCKS — 
BBAUTIFUL  BOUQUETS. 

OuK  gipsies  had  breakfast  ready  soon  after  7  o'clock, 

and    taMng    Noah    with    us,    we    found    Mr.   L.    at 

Veblungsnoes.     With  his  assistance  we  obtained  from  an 

excellent  general  shop,  the  only  one  of  the  kind  apparently 

in  Veblungsnoes,  two  bottles  of  very  good  port  wine,  for 

one  dollar  two  marks  twelve  skillings,  twelve  poimds  of 

brown  sugar,  for  one  dollar  four  skillings,  or  about  eight 

shillings  and  eight  pence  English  money;   some  brim- 

stone  and  treacle  for  the  gipsies,  soap,  and  some  small 

items  came  to  another  dollar.     The  owner  of  the  shop, 

which  contained  a  variety  of  almost  everything,  had  a 


286  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

counting-liouse  attached,  where  he  changed  for  us  a 
ten-pound  Bank  of  England  note,  into  a  quantity  of 
small  money  of  the  country.  We  forget  his  name.  All 
tradesmen  should  have  their  name  and  address  printed 
at  the  head  of  their  bills,  and  give  one  on  all  oc- 
casions, so  that  chance  customers  may  have  some 
means  of  reference  and  recommendation.  Noah  was 
heavily  weighted ;  more  bread  cost  two  marks  four 
skillings,  and  some  sundries,  and  gurnet  for  dinner, 
made  our  expenditure  nearly  another  dollar.  Mr.  L. 
had  read  much  in  English,  and,  although  he  had  never 
been  in  England,  conversed  with  great  ease  and  fluency 
in  the  English  language.  We  returned  to  our  camp,  to 
meet  Herr  Solberg,  the  photographer. 

The  day  was  beautiful,  Herr  Solberg  was  ready  with 
his  apparatus.  The  photographer  came  from  Molde ;  he 
is  a  tall,  pale,  quiet,  intelligent  man.  Esmeralda  had 
put  our  things  ready,  so  that  our  toilette  was  soon  made. 
As  to  herself,  she  was  resplendent  in  the  blue  dress, 
plaid  braid,  and  silver  buttons.  Her  brothers  had  very 
few  additions  they  could  make,  but  Noah  contrived  to 
buy  at  Veblungsnoes  a  paper  front  and  collar,  which  gave 
him  immense  satisfaction.  Zachariah  was  in  a  melan- 
choly temper;  no  one  had  bought  him  a  churie  (gip. 
shut-knife)  at  Veblungsnoes.  His  existence  was  blurred, 
his  cheerfulness  clouded,  and  his  smile  was  gone. 

About  12  o'clock  Herr  Solberg  took  his  first  stereo- 
scopic view.  Mr.  L.,  some  ladies,  and  one  of  our 
former  visitors,  a  Norwegian  captain  and  his  son  and 
children,  came  to  our  camp.  The  stereoscopic  view 
was  pronounced  perfect.  The  donkeys  were  a  success, 
and  the  wooded  hill  above  our  camp   came   out  with 


^  4    N*«l*^ 


t     •  V.'    ' 

....    .  »— ^ 


t 


ESMERALDA'S  FHOTOQEAFH.  287 

the  background  exceedingly  well.  Another  photograph 
of  ourselves,  tents  and  donkeys,  was  afterwards  made, 
and  also  a  carte  de  yisite  of  Esmeralda,  standing  under 
a  birch-tree,  with  Jier  tambourine  in  her  hand.  On  her 
finger  is  a  silver  ring,  presented  to  her  by  one  of  our 
fiiends,  as  a  memento  of  Veblungsnoes.  As  the  ladies 
sat  on  the  grass  looking  on,  we  set  our  musical-box 
to  pl^  near  them,  and  so  the  day  passed  until  3  o'clock, 
when  the  sun  having  been  too  high  and  powerful  for 
a  good  single  photograph,  Herr  Solberg  left  us  to  have 
our  dinner,  and  to  return  again  at  4  o'clock.  Our  gurnet 
was  very  good,  but  exceedingly  reduced  in  substance  in 
boiling.  Upon  Herr  Solberg's  return,  he  took  another 
Buccessful  photograph  of  our  camp,  and  left.  The 
donkeys  are  very  difficult  to  take,  but  by  a  happy  chance 
they  wer6  exceedingly  quiet  at  the  right  moment.  The 
engraving  now  given,  is  taken  from  Herr  Solberg's  pho- 
tograph of  our  gipsy  camp  at  Veblungsnces. 

Noah  was  soon  reijuired  on  duty.  Having  sufficient 
time  before  tea,  we  went  to  Veblungsnoes,  and  bought 
some  sealing-wax  and  glue,  whilst  Noah  went  to  a 
spirit  store,  kept  by  an  old  man,  who  had  all  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  jovial  Bacchanalian.  Two  or  three  bottles 
of  aquavit,  or  brsendeviin,  a  sort  of  corn  brandy,  was 
bought  by  Noah.  We  afterwards  imagined  the  bottles 
were  filled  with  the  dregs  of  one  of  the  casks,  perhaps, 
the  brandy  was  therefore  more  potent.  Certain  im- 
purities floating  about  did  not  inspire  confidence.  It 
was  inferior  to  that  we  had  purchased  from  the  steward 
of  the  steamer  at  Lillehammer.  The  brandy  was  in- 
tended for  our  peasant  visitors  at  camp.  We  were 
annoyed,  but  found  they  were  not  very  squeamish,  and 


288  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

seemed  to  like  it ;  yet  we  wished  to  give  them  the  very 
best>  and  were  always  ready  to  give  the  highest  price. 

Meat,  or  as  it  is  called  in  Norwegian,  kiod,  is  not 
very  obtainable.  No  butchers'  shops  are  to  be  met  with 
at  Veblungsnoes.  No  joints  of  meat  hanging  up  for  sale. 
Mr.  L.  believed  that  a  large  ox  had  been  killed  for 
the  funeral  of  a  substantial  bonde,  residing  at  a  large 
house,  on  the  high-road  near  Veblungsnoes  churclr,  and 
he  would  inquire.  We  had  just  returned  to  our  camp 
when  we  received  a  letter  from  Mr.  L.  and  went 
with  the  bearer  to  the  bondegaard.  They  could  let  us 
have  ten  or  fifteen  pounds  of  beef,  at  ten  skillings  per 
pound.  We  went  up  some  steps  from  the  road  to  the 
house-door ;  but  the  atmosphere  was  too  close  for  us  to 
remain  inside.  Going  with  a  man  to  a  door  at  one  end 
of  the  house,  he  entered  a  kind  of  cellar,  and  we  were 
shown  the  meat  in  a  cask.  They  kindly  sold  us  ten 
pounds  of  the  beef,  which  Noah  took  away.  We  paid 
four  marks  four  skillings,  or  thi^e  shillings  and  nine 
pence  English  money  value.  Being  uncertain  when  we 
should  have  another  chance  of  buying  fresh  meat,  we 
thought  it  desirable  to  save  our  stores  as  much  as 
possible. 

Visitors  were  at  our  tents  when  we  returned  for  tea. 
Sounds  of  voices  speaking  nautical  English  met  our  ear : 
the  skipper  of  the  yacht  "  Claymore  "  introduced  himself, 
with  one  of  the  yacht's  crew  and  their  Norwegian  pilot. 
The  skipper  said  two  or  three  young  English  gentle- 
men were  cruising  with  their  yacht,  and  she  was  at 
anchor  in  the  Fjord,*  near  Veblungsnoes.  The  yacht 
had  reached  Christiansand  about  the  time  we  reached 

*  Fjord  is  pronounced  Fee-or, 


THE   YACHTSMEN.  280 

Christiania.  We  gave  them  some  brandy,  and  tho 
skipper  seemed  quite  delighted  to  see  anyone  who  could 
talk  English.  He  told  us  they  had  an  ancient  claymore 
for  a  figure-head  on  board,  and  three  dogs  and  a  monkey 
On  leaving  they  said  we  might  probably  come  to  see  the 
yacht  before  she  left 

The  Norwegian  Sunday  conmiences  at  5  o'clock  on 
Saturday  afternoon,  Ajs  usual,  we  determined  not  to 
allow  any  music  in  the  evening,  and  we  heard  after- 
wards, the  farmer,  who  was  very  scrupulous  upon  tho 
observance  of  the  Sunday,  was  much  pleased. 

When  our  visitors  from  the  "Claymore"  were  gone 
we  were  ready  for  tea.  Zachariah  was  unable  to  eat 
any  of  the  fried  meat.  Our  can  of  water  was  boiled,  and 
our  beef  fried,  at  our  camp  fire,  at  the  bottom  of  the 
grassy  knoll,  on  which  our  tents  were  pitched.  A  clear, 
winding,  narrow  brook,  shaded  by  alder  and  birch  bushes, 
rippled  below  us;  the  grass  was  short,  having  been 
newly  mown,  and  the  hay  was  taken  away.  A  fine 
bold  mountain  rose  before  us,  with  rocky  peaks,  as  we 
looked  from  Veblungsnoea  The  summer's  sun  had  not 
melted  all  its  winter  snow.  Its  three  peaks  were  called 
the  King,  Queen,  and  Bishop.  After  tea  Captain  C. 
came  by  our  tents  en  route  to  the  telegraph  office.  All 
were  anxious  to  hear  tidings  of  the  war.  Mr.  L.  coming 
to  our  camp  soon  after,  told  ns  the  news,  and  we  all 
walked  together  to  Aak. 

The  walk  from  our  camp  to  Aak  must  have  been 
about  two  miles.  Mr.  L.  conversed  with  a  young 
Norwegian  gentleman  who  joined  us,  and  we  sauntered 
along  with  Captain  C.  The  calm  stUlness  of  the 
Norwegian  evening  was  very  refreshing.    By  some  chance 


290  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

our  conversation  turned  upon  ghost  lore  as  one  of 
our  subjects.  Each  had  our  idea.  Captain  C.  relatdi 
one  or  two  singular  instances  of  undoubted  occurrences. 
Wraiths,  it  has  been  said,  may  be  accounted  for  by  the 
wave  of  thought  in  distant  manifestation.  The  body 
in  one  place  and  the  spirit  in  another  ;  voices  as  sounds 
seemingly  distinct,  sometimes  heard  through  the  wide 
distance  between  two  souls  inseparable^  Before  de- 
parture from  the  world,  the  spirit  sometimes  manifests 
itself  to  some  loved  friend.  The  wraith  has  accomplished 
its  mission,  and  it  is  gone  -for  ever.  People  who  dwell 
with  Nature  seem  peculiarly  susceptible  to  such  in- 
fluences. In  the  regions  of  the  mightiest  works  of  our 
Creator's  hand,  we  find  them  naturally  most  prone  to  such 
impressions.  Gipsies  are  not  without  their  experiences 
on  such  subjects.  More  than  one  instance  has  found  a 
place  in  our  gipsy  lore. 

We  have  reached  Aak,  our  discussion  on  a  variety  of 
subjects,  ends  in  our  finding  ourself  in  a  most  com- 
fortable room,  hung  round  by  photographs  of  Norwegian 
scenery,  and  seated  at  a  small  table,  quafl&ng  a  glass  of 
sparkling  baiersk  ol.  The  presence  of  English  travellers 
was  evident,  from  a  marked  attention  to  ventilation.  A 
tidy  pige,  or  waiting-girl,  with  quiet  manner,  and  ready 
attention,  attended  to  some  travellers,  who  were  taking 
their  evening  meal,  at  a  long  table  near  us.  All  was 
cleanliness  and  comfort  at  Aak. 

Our  stay  at  Aak  was  brief.  We  returned  to  our  tents 
with  Mr.  L.,  who  was  full  of  information  about  his 
country.  Those  who  are  accustomed  to  our  JEnglish 
climate,  can  scarcely  realize  the  length  of  a  Norwegian 
winter.     It  is  very  cold  at  Veblungsnoes,  from  about  the 


JPjBOOT  bites.  291 

middle  of  September  to  the  middle  of  MarcL  All  that 
we  now  saw  before  us,  so  pleasant  and  smiling,  would 
in  a  short  time  be  covered  with  a  white  fleecy  mantle 
of  deep  snow.  Many  scarcely  venture  out  from  Sep- 
tember to  March,  and  the  cold  winds  sometimes  pro- 
duce on  the  face,  not  inured  to  continued  exposure,  what 
is  called  the  Rose.  It  is  a  pink  tinge  upon  the  counte- 
nance, which  in  some  is  not  altogether  a  blemish.  Frost- 
bites and  chilblains  are  of  course  the  occasional  result  of 
so  much  cold.  Frost-bites  should  be  rubbed  at  once  with 
snow.  The  oil  from  reindeer  cheese  is  said  to  be  a  cure 
for  frost-bites.  Although  the  cold  is  intense  at  times,  the 
atmosphere  is  dry  and  not  unhealthy.  If  the  Norwegian 
summer  were  twice  the  length,  Norway  would  be  a 
paradise. 

The  morning  was  windy,  Noah's  tent  was  almost 
blown  over.  Our  breakfast  consisted  of  tea  and  bread 
and  butter.  Esmeralda  was  not  well ;  Zachariah  was  still 
afficted  with  a  churie  (gip.,  shut-knife)  monomania.  Two 
days'  inactivity  and  extra  good  living,  was  evidently 
plunging  our  gipsies,  into  the  depths  of  biliousness.  It 
was  in  vain  we  had  dosed  Zachariah  with  brimstone  and 
treacle,  until  he  was  a  qualified  inmate  for  Dotheboys' 
Hall,  and  a  fortnight  with  Wackford  Squeers,  would 
have  done  him  an  immense  amount  of  good.  Noah 
was  always  lively.  A  few  hours'  rapid  movement  would 
restore  alL 

With  all  their  waywardness,  and  restlessness  of  spirit, 
we  had  the  elements  for  rapid  action,  and  a  physical 
energy,  with  which  to  push  through  any  obstacle. 
Veblungsnoes,  it  was  determined,  should  be  our  Ultima 
Thule,  and  striking  our  tents  on  Monday  morning,  we 

V  2 


292  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

should  seek  new  scenes  in  the  wild  Norwegian  f  jelds. 
Still  wandering  south — still  on  our  homewards  route,  our 
little  band  of  hardy  nomads,  would  have  to  brace  them- 
selves to  fresh  exertion.  What  a  vast  expanse  of 
mountain,  glen  and  forest  lay  before  us,  which  we  must 
traverse,  before  we  again  reached  the  sea. 

At  half-past  nine  o'clock  Esmeralda  was  ready  to 
accompany  me  to  Veblungsnoes.  She  looked  well  in  her 
blue  dress,  plaid  braid,  and  silver  buttons,  and  her  heavy- 
boots  were  blacked  and  shining,  specially  for  the  visit.  As 
we  entered  the  avenue  of  trees  all  was  quiet  and  repose. 
A  Sunday  in  England  could  not  have  been  more  calm, 
and  free  from  busy  turmoil  and  bustle.  The  town  of 
Veblungsnoes  seemed  to  have  a  perpetual  Sunday,  for  it 
was  the  same  on  week  days ;  there  was  nothing  dull,  or 
dreary  about  the  place,  yet  there  was  nothing  to  see  in 
it ;  it  possessed  an  indefinable  charm,  arising  out  of  its 
attempt  at  nothing.  We  left  it  as  we  found  it,  to  be 
remembered  with  pleasure. 

Esmeralda  had  been  promised  to  see  the  telegraphic 
apparatus.  Our  word  to  our  gipsies  was  always  relied 
upon  by  them ;  if  it  was  said  to  them,  it  was  done. 
Mr.  L.  was  ready  to  receive  us,  and  the  apparatus 
was  explained,  and  Esmeralda  was  electrified.  With  a 
present  of  a  quantity  of  strawberries  from  Mr.  L 
she  departed  for  our  camp,  whilst  Mr.  L.  arranged  for 
our  departure  in  a  boat  to  see  the  "  Heen  Kirke,"  on  the 
Isfjord. 

The  Isfjord  is  a  fine  expanse  of  water.  Our  two  oars- 
men were  ready,  strong  hardy  men,  chewing  tobacco 
without  intermission,  and  spitting  perpetually.  Their 
pallor  of  countenance  may  have  been  produced  by  im- 


HEEN  KIBKE.  293 

moderate  chewing.  The  yacht,  "  Claymore,"  was  resting 
at  anchor;  the  owners  of  the  craft  were  enjoying  a 
sporting  tour.  There  is  a  great  enjoyment  of  inde- 
pendence in  a  yacht  cruise,  Norway  is  admirably 
adapted  for  yachting;  but  our  time  was  limited,  and 
getting  the  wind,  our  sail  was  hoisted,  and  we  soon  left 
Veblungsnoes  in  the  distance.  Gentle  slopes  rise  from 
the  margin  of  the  Fjord  for  a  short  distance,  dominated 
by  lofty  steeps  and  rising  hills ;  here  and  there  small 
log  houses,  being  the  residences  of  the  peasant  owners, 
come  into  view.  The  small  property  round  each,  is  their 
farm. 

The  cost  of  an  ordinary  sized  farm  on  the  shores  of 
the  Fjord,  would  average  about  600  to  700  dollars,  or 
about  £157.  10s.  English  money,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  farm.  Few  attempts  are  ever  made  to  give  to 
the  Bondegaard,  the  picturesque  appearance  of  the  Swiss 
cottage.  With  very  little  more  expense  and  labour,  the 
Norwegian  peasant's  cottage,  might  be  made  exceedingly 
pretty,  and  ornamental. 

The  "  Heen  Kirke  "  had  no  unusual  attraction  in  itself ; 
one  Norwegian  church  is  so  like  another,  •  No  old 
monuments  to  please  the  antiquarian  taste ;  no  mediaeval 
tombs ;  no  brasses,  Norman  arches,  Saxon  doorways, 
and  decorated  windows  ;  no  corbels,  bosses,  and  gro- 
tesque imagery  of  ancient  stone  sculpture  ;  no  tesselated 
pavement,  and  richly  ornamented  cloisters,  dark  with 
age,  and  dim  with  poetic  light.  No  peel  of  bells,  and 
massive  tower  covered  with  ivy,  resorted  to  by  owls, 
and  jackdaws.  No  ecclesiastical  library  of  black-lettered 
books,  curiously  and  substantially  bound,  in  dark  and 
dusty  covers,  crammed  into  shelves,  and  forgotten  in 


294  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

some  comer  of  the  vestry.  The  worm-eaten  oak  chest 
was  wanting  also,  containing  well-thumbed  registers  and 
sacramental  plate,  secured  by  three  large  locks,  one  for 
the  vicar  and  one  for  each  of  the  churchwardens.  The 
Norman  stone  font,  with  elaborate  carving  was  absent 
The  crypt  and  sedilia,*  were  not  to  be  found,  and  a 
chained  Bible  we  did  not  see.f  Yet,  withal,  the  people 
are  earnest  in  their  prayer,  their  ways  are  those  of  peace, 
and  their  pastors  appear  to  hold  the  affections  of  their 
flock. 

We  had  a  beautiful  view  of  the  "Kavlee  Fjeld"a5 
we  returned  Stretching  forests  of  pine  extended  beyond 
the  head  of  the  Fjord.  On  our  left  we  saw  the  once 
abode  of  "  Parelius,"  a  wild  spot  beneath  a  precipice, 
near  the  margin  of  the  Fjord.  Parelius  was  a  great 
linguist.  No  one  appears  to  have  chronicled  his  lin- 
guistic skill,  though  he  learned  a  living  language,  which 
few  if  any  can.  Even  the  Parisien  of  the  Jardin  des 
Tuileries,  whose  command  over  birds  is  wonderful,  did 
not  seem  to  know  their  language  ;  even  Mademoiselle 
Vanderschmeck,  could  not  rival  Parelius,  who  lived  in 
the  solitary  Bondegaard,  on  the  shore  of  the  Isfjord. 
Parelius  conversed  with  birds  ;  he  is  said  to  have  known 
their  language.  On  one  occasion  some  peasants  asked 
him,  when  he  was  in  another  parish,  away  from  home, 


*  Beautiful  examples  of  the  sidilia  and  piscina  may  be  seen  in  Dorcbeister 
Abbey  Church,  Oxfordshire.  The  small  openings  or  windows  at  the  back 
of  the  niches  are  remarkable.  Another  interesting  example  of  the  aediliA 
and  piscina  may  be  seen  at  Grafton  Underwood,  Northamptonshire,  where 
the  niches  have  ogee  heads,  cinque-foiled. 

t  The  largest  number  of  chained  Bibles  we  have  seen  are  in  the  old  library 
of  Wimbome  Minster,  in  Dorsetshire.  The  libraiy  is  also  interesting  as 
associated  with  Matthew  Prior,  the  poet. 


PARELIdS.  295 

what  the  crows  hard  by  were  saying — "  They  say,"  said 
Parelius,  "  that  a  bear  has  just  killed  one  of  my  oxen, 
and  I  must  go  home."  He  returned  to  verify  his  loss. 
Whilst  Parelius  was  from  home  one  day,  an  avalanche 
from  the  precipice  above,  destroyed  his  house.  We  were 
told  he  lived  some  fifty  years  ago.  Parelius  is  gone — 
the  house  is  gone.  Whether  he  was  a  native  of  Veb- 
lungsnces  we  cannot  say.  No  record  appears  to  have 
been  made  of  this  eminent  man,  some  account  of  his 
life,  scanty  though  it  be,  may  rescue  his  name  from 
oblivion. 

The  fjords  of  this  coast  are  well  stocked  with  fish,  and 
the  islands  and  rocks  with  wild  fowl.  The  eider  ducks 
are  numerous  ;  their  nests  are  made  on  the  ground,  and 
the  down  is  taken  from  the  nest  after  it  is  placed  there 
by  the  bird.  About  half-a-pound  of  down  is  taken  from 
each  nest,  which  is  reduced  to  a  residue  of  about  a 
quarter-of-a-pound  for  sale  or  use  ;  a  very  small  quantity 
of  the  down  is  sufficient  to  stuflF  a  coverlet ;  its  wonderful 
hghtness  and  warmth  renders  it  extremely  valuable.  There 
is  now  a  law  for  the  protection  of  the  eider  duck  ;  they 
may  not  be  caught  or  killed  from  15th  April  to 
15th  August* 

Fiva  is  said  to  have  the  best  salmon  fishing  on  the 
Rauma.  We  had  a  fresh  wind  on  the  Fjord  as  we 
returned.  Birch  twigs  are  used  as  fastenings  for  the 
boat  sail  instead  of  rope,  in  fact,  the  birch  twigs,  or 
withes,  are  substituted  for  rope  in  every  variety  of  way 
After  a  pleasant  cruise  we  landed,  and  left  our  friend, 
and  reached  our  camp  with  an  excellent  appetite. 

*  An  eider-down  quilt  in  London  costs  sometimes  as  mncb,  as  five  to 
seven  guineas. 


296  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

Our  dinner  consisted  of  soup,  meat,  and  bread  and 
butter.  Esmeralda  was  unwell  and  could  not  eat  any- 
thing.  Zachariah  was  stiU  murmuring  about  tie  chmie 
(shut  knife)  no  one  had  bought  for  him.  He  received  a 
lecture ;  the  shadows  of  his  future  were  forcibly  set 
before  him. 

After  dinner  the  "  Lehnsmoend's  "  lady  from  Aak,  and 
her  two  daughters  came  to  see  the  donkeys.  A  very  beau- 
tiful bouquet  of  flowers  she  brought  for  our  acceptance. 
Lady  Di  Beauclerk,  in  her  Journal,*  speaks  of  the  beau- 
tiful flowers  of  Aak.  Whilst  our  visitor  and  her  daughters 
sat  in  our  tents,  we  sent  for  the  donkeys,  which  were 
much  admired.  Zachariah  was  presented  with  a  box  of 
ornaments  before  they  left.  So  our  visitors  came  and 
went  in  succession  during  the  evening,  and  our  first 
idea  of  strict  seclusion,  by  camping  in  private  ground, 
we  found  an  illusory  dream. 

•  "  A  Summer  and  Winter  in  Norway,"  by  Lady  Di  Beauclerk,  puV 
lished  by  Murray,  1868. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

These  prophecieB  are  repeated,  particularly  by  Kzekiel,  many  times 
almost  in  the  aame  words  in  different  chapters  (see  particularly  the 
whole  of  the  30th  and  32nd),  as  if  he  were  desirous  in  an  especial 
DAimer  to  enforce  them.  These  denunciations  and  prophecieS|  then, 
seem  clearly  to  establish  three  distinct  important  events  to  the 
Egyptians— first,  their  complete  conquest  and  dispersion  ;  secondly, 
their  remaining  dispersed,  without  idols,  among  all  nations,  and 
countries,  in  the  open  fields,  during  forty  years  ;  and,  finally,  their 
being  again  brought  to  the  land  of  their  habitation,  where  they  shall  be 
taught  to  know  the  Lord. 

The  Oijmes*    By  Saxusl  Bobsbts. 

OUR  OXTIDE — TO  THE  MOUNTAINS— MYSTIC  LIGHT — THE  PHOTOGRAPHS — 
THE  CLAYMORE  YACHT — NORWEGIAN  GIPSIES — SINGULAR  RACE — 
OCCUPATIONS — GIPSY  BURIALS — ROMANTIC  LOVE — PREDESTINATION — 
THE   BONDEGAARD — THE  HIGH   DEMAND— ESMERALDa'S  SOUVENIR. 

A  KOTE  was  soon  after  placed  in  our  hands,  by  a  broad- 
shouldered  thickset  muscular  man,  rather  under  middle 
height,  with  a  thick  sandy  almost  red  beard ;  his  small 
quick  eye  betokened  alertness,  and  self-possession,  his 
countenance  expressed  good  temper,  fidelity,  and  rectitude. 
It  was  not  necessary  to  look  agaip,  as  we  took  the  note. 
He  was  a  broad-chested,  sturdy  reindeer  hunter,  of  the 
Fjeld;  the  note  was  an  introduction  given  by  Mr.  L. 
the  bearer  was    Ole  Halvorsen,   or   as  he  is    usually 

*  A  fifth  edition  of  "  The  Gipsies :  Their  Origin,  Continuation,  and 
Destination  ;  or,  the  Sealed  Book  Opened,"  by  Samuel  Roberts,  •was  pub- 
lished by  Messrs.  Longman,  1842. 


298  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

called  Ole  RSdsheim,  from  the  name  of  his  station  and 
land  in  Boeverdal.  A  certificate  of  strong  recoramen- 
dation  by  two  English  gentlemen,  for  whom  he  had 
recently  acted  as  guide,  and  had  lately  parted  from,  was 
also  given  us.  Captain  C/s  name  was  also  used  with  his 
permission.  We  at  once  liked  Ole  Rodsheim ;  his  quiet 
manner,  and  appearance,  was  so  diflFerent  from  many  of 
the  "  Tolks,"  and  guides,  who  are  often  more  trouble,  and 
expense  than  use  ;  most  of  thein  would  sneeze  for  an 
hoiu-,  at  the  idea  of  sleeping  on  some  damp  heath,  under 
a  rock  during  a  windy  wet  night,  near  the  exhilarating 
influence  of  a  cold  snow  field ;  such  were  not  the  men 
for  our  expedition,  and  Ole  Rodsheim  was.  After  a 
careful  inspection  of  our  maps,  we  soon  arranged  in  our 
minds,  the  course  for  our  future  expedition  after  we  left 
Veblungsnoes.  The  summit  of  the  Galdhoepiggen,  the 
Morkfos,  and  the  valders,  with  a  long  route  through 
many  Mountain  and  Lake  scenes,  we  proposed  to 
accomplish.  Ole  Rodsheim  spoke  good  English,  and 
the  following  arrangement  was  soon  concluded;  he 
was  to  join  us  near  Molmen,  and  guide  our  party 
over  the  mountains,  to  Skeaker,  Lom,  and  Rodsheim,  and 
ascend  with  us  the  Galdhopiggen,  for  the  sum  of  three 
dollars  and  a  half,  finding  himself  board  and  lodging ; 
his  services  afterwards,  if  required,  to  be  4  marks  a  day, 
including  everything.  Deciding  to  make  a  forced  march, 
and  travel  in  two  days  what  we  had  before  travelled 
in  four,  we  agreed  to  be  at  the  Bover  Moen  (Beaver 
stream)  between  Stueflaaten  and  Molmen  on  the  follow- 
ing Wednesday  morning. 

With  what  pleasure  we  looked  forward  to  fresh  scenes 
travel  and  adventure  in  even  \\dlder  scenes  of  nature 


>. 


..»*»f» 

.-•■ 

•.'.' 

•  V 

11  lifA-* 

r'3 

^i 

.*t  f 

> 

MYSTIC  LIGHT.  299 

than  those  we  had  yet  traversed.  Those  we  had  seen 
were  very  beautiful ;  each  camp  seemed  to  eclipe  the 
last,  in  the  beauty  of  its  scenery.  On  those  still  clear 
Norwegian  nights,  full  of  mystic  light,  lovely  in  their 
starlight  stillness,  the  mind  seemed  enthralled,  in  a 
thousand  pleasing  fancies;  the  music  of  the  waterfall; 
the  voices  on  the  breeze.  The  melody  of  nature,  pro- 
duced impressions  we  can  never  forget. 

Norway  is  not  the  country  for  the  sybarite,  faineant, 
and  the  Mneur ;  it  is  the  home  of  the  hardy  mountaineer, 
the  angler,  the  reindeer  hunter,  and  nomad  wanderer, 
the  lover  of  nature  and  nature's  works  in  her  wildest  and 
most  beautiful  forms. 

Plants,  mosses  of  every  hue,  trees,  rocks,  glaciers, 
torrents,  lakes,  fjords,  waterfalls,  mountains,  woods, 
and  glens,  are,  in  their  perfection,  met  at  every  step,  in 
Norway's  free  romantic  land. 

When  Mr.  L.  came  to  our  camp  in  the  evening  with 
Herr  Solberg,  we  arranged  for  our  photographs,  and  paid 
for  them.  The  views  of  Romsdalshom,  Veblungsnoes, 
and  Troldtindeme,  from  which  the  engravings  in  this 
book  are  taken,  had  yet  to  be  completed  specially  for  us. 
They  were  afterwards  forwarded;  Herr  Solberg  was 
allowed  the  privilege  of  disposing  of  the  stereoscopic  view 
of  our  gipsy  camp,  and  the  carte  de  visite  of  Esmeralda. 
The  specimens  he  brought  to  show  us,  were  presented  to 
Esmeralda. 

Our  last  walk  with  Mr.  L.  is  taken  by  the  Isi^^^^d. 
As  a  parting  souvenir  we  gave  him  an  illustrated  copy  of 
Her  Majesty  the  Queen  of  England's  Journal,  with  which 
he  was  much  interested ;  Mr.  L.  added  much  to  the 
pleasure  of  our  visit  to  the  quaint  old  town  of  Veblungs- 


8(X)  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOMWAT, 

noes.  When  shall  we  meet  again  ?  So  it  is  in  this  world ; 
we  meet  and  we  part,  but  fortunately  the  memory  retains 
friendship's  recollection  not  so  easily  eflfaced. 

From  the  Isfjord,  near  Veblungsnoes,  the  farm  was 
pointed  out  to  us  where  Colonel  Sinclair,  who  perished 
at  the  Kringelen,  landed  with  his  forces. 

The  church  of  Veblungsnoes  is  represented  in  the  en^ 
graving  of  the  town.  There  was  nothing  remarkable 
about  this  church  to  note,  A  newly  dug  grave  was  pre- 
pared in  the  churchyard  for  the  deceased  Bondegaard, 
who  had  resided  near.  If  it  happens  that  the  clergjnnan 
cannot  attend  when  the  corpse  is  buried  no  delay  occurs ; 
the  service  is  read  over  by  the  clerg)Tnan  at  some  future 
time,  when  he  attends  for  church  service.  The  yacht 
Clajrmore  added  a  charm  to  our  evening  contemplation 
of  the  Tsfjord.  Noah  said  he  had  seen  one  of  the  gentle- 
men of  the  yacht  on  shore,  who  had  that  day  ascended 
the  mountain  above  our  camp. 

Our  stay  was  now  nearly  ended.  Hitherto  our  travels 
had  through  every  difficulty,  been  most  successful ;  we 
had  scarcely  lost  anything ;  the  two  hats,  musketo  veil, 
and  kettle  prop  we  could  manage  without.  Mr.  L. 
told  us  that  two  young  Norwegian  friends  who  had  made 
an  excursion,  came  to  him  with  scarcely  anything  left ; 
they  had  forgotten  some  article  at  nearly  every  place 
they  went  to.  With  some  trouble  the  things  were  again 
recovered.  When  the  travellers  departed,  they  again 
contrived  to  leave  behind  them  an  umbrella  and  a  pair 
of  galoshes. 

Some  of  the  Norwegian  gipsies  usually  attend  the 
October  fair  at  Veblungsnoes.  The  women  are  very  hand- 
some, and  some  of  the  men.    When  they  attend  the  fair, 


NORWEGIAN  GIPSIES.  301 

the  women  drink  even  more  than  the  men.     They  are 
very  fond  of  music,  and  at  the  fairs,  when  they  have 
drunk  to  excess,  are  very  quarrelsome  and  passionate. 
Under  the  Norwegian  law  any  person  who  arrives  at  a 
certain  age  without  being  able  to  read  or  write,  and  who 
has  not  been  confirmed,  is  liable  to  be  committed  to  gaol. 
There  they  remain  imtil  they  can  read,  write,  and  are 
properly  instructed  in  religious  knowledge.    Many  of  the 
gipsies  when  examined  by  clergymen,  have  been  found  so 
ignorant,  and  without  instruction,  that  they  have  from 
time  to  time  been  committed  to  prison,  and  detained 
there,  till  they  came  up  to  the  standard  of  required 
proficiency.     Proesten  Eilert  Sundt  had  therefore  good 
opportunities  of  seeing  them,  and  conversing  with  them. 
The  vocabulary  of  Romany  words,  as  spoken  by  the 
Norwegian  gipsies,  which  he  has  collected,  with  other 
information,  is  very  valuable.*     His   mission  seems  to 
have  been  performed  with  much   energy.     The   short 
r^sumd   of  his  works,   given  in  the   appendix   to   this 
book,  we  had  specially  made  for  our  English  readers ;  it 
gives  some  idea  of  the  state  in  which  he  found  this 
wandering  and  singular  people  in  Norway.  The  Storthing 
granted  a  large  sum  for  the  amelioration  of  their  con- 
dition.    We  were  told  that  some  gipsies  who  had  money 
given  them,  and  were  settled  in  farms  on  the  shore  of 
the  Is^ord  opposite  Veblungsnoes,  did  not  remain  long, 
EDd,  selling  their  farms,  disappeared  with  the  money 
Many  of  the  gipsies  who  attend  the  Veblungsnoes  fair, 
when  asked  where  they  came  from,  say  the   Valders. 

*  A  comparison  of  many  words  of  the  Norwegian  and  English  gipsy 
languages,  showing  their  similarity,  is  given  in  the  appendix  to  this 
book. 


302  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

This  was  one  reason  why  we  decided  to  return  with  our 
gipsies  through  that  part  of  Norway.  Notwithstanding, 
Proesten  Sundt's  account  of  their  mode  of  life,  and  predi- 
lections, and  the  very  unenviable  notoriety  they  seem  to 
have  attained  in  Norway,  we  were  certainly  anxious  to 
fall  in  with  a  band  of  these  wanderers,  so  that  our  people 
might  hold  converse  with  them.  We  were  told  that 
some  of  the  gipsies  had  land  in  the  Valders !  but  it  is  very 
possible  that  the  statement  that  they  came  from  that  part 
of  Norway  was  an  evasive  reply.  It  is  very  seldom, 
gipsies  wiU  give  even  their  right  names  to  curious 
questioners  ;  as  in  other  countries  where  they  are  found, 
and  in  very  few  they  are  not,  they  deal  in  horses  and 
work  in  metals.  The  Norwegian  gipsies  are  skilful 
workers  in  brass  ;  we  were  told  that  they  live  in  houses 
in  the  winter,  the  cold  being  too  intense  for  them  to 
travel  with  their  tents. 

The  circumstance  of  the  non-burial  of  the  gipsy  dead 
in  the  Norwegian  churchyards,  as  stated  by  the  Proesten 
Sundt,  is  not  confined  exclusively  to  the  gipsies  of 
Norway.  Baudrimont  in  his  "  Langue  des  Bohdmiens," 
as  spoken  by  those  living  in  the  Basque  provinces,  says 
at  page  27,  "  We  know  not  what  becomes  of  the  gipsies 
who  die  ;  not  the  slighest  trace  of  them  is  ever  met  with. 
This  has  given  rise  to  the  idea,  that  they  turn  the  course 
of  rivulets,  and,  digging  a  pit,  place  the  body  in  the 
torrent's  bed,  and  again  let  the  water  resume  its  course." 

Francisque-Michel  in  his  work,  **  Le  Pays  Basque,"*  at 
page  143,  says: — "*I  have  noticed  in  many  localities/ 
said  Monsieur  le  Vicomte  de  Belsunce,  who  was  for  a 

♦  Published  Londres  et  Edinbourg  :  Williams  and  Noigate.     1857, 


ROMANTIC  LOVE.  303 

considerable  period  the  mayor  of  a  district,  '  that  gipsy 
men  and  women  of  great  age,  long  known  to  the  present 
generation  as  old  people,  disappear  suddenly,  and  never 
return.  It  is  a  common  occurrence,  and  yet  no  labourer 
in  the  fields,  or  traveller  on  the  roads,  or  shepherd,  or 
hunter  in  the  mountains,  ever  sees  the  trace  of  a  grave.' " 
And  the  same  author  says  : — "  Was  Grellman*  right, 
or  was  it  true,  as  many  assert,  that  these  people  turned 
the  course  of  some  brook  whilst  they  made  the  grave, 
and  turned  the  stream  over  it  immediately  afterwards  ? 
Such  a  burial  would  not  leave  any  trace,  and  it  was  so 
they  buried  Attila,  who  followed,  when  he  came  into 
Europe,  the  same  route  as  the  gipsies." 

The  more  the  gipsy  element  becomes  mingled  with 
other  house-dwelling  races  the  less  strongly  will  they  cling 
to  their  tents.  We  who  have  tried  it  must  confess  to  a 
strange  fascination  in  tent  life.  To  our  own  knowledge 
we  have  known  instances  of  gipsies  who  have  married 
house-dweUing  gorgios.  One  singular  instance  of  ro- 
mantic love  was  once  narrated  to  me  of  a  young  gentle- 
man of  birth,  who  became  so  infatuated  as  to  leave  all  for 
a  handsome  gipsy  girl  he  met  with.  She  left  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  his  home,  but  he  could  not  rest,  and,  with  a 
few  things,  followed  and  found  her,  and  at  last  submitted 
for  her  sake  to  be  her  husband  and  adopt  tent  life.  His 
end  was  sad.  He  was  making  some  pegs  for  her  to  seH, 
but  being  unpractised  in  the  art,  and  clumsy  with  his 
knife,  it  slipped  and  entered  his  thigh,  probably  severed 
the  femoral  artery,  for  he  died  soon  after. 

•  Heinricli  Moritz  Gottlieb  Grellman  is  the  author  of  a  standard  work, 
written  in  German,  entitled,  "A  Dissertation  on  Gipsies."  A  translation, 
by  Matthew  Roper,  Esq.,  F.R.S.  and  A,S.,  was  published  in  1787. 


304  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

As  long  as  much  of  the  gipsy  element  remains,  it  is  not 
probable  that  they  can  be  bent  to  the  steady  pursuits  of 
a  stationary  house- dwelling  population.  As  well  try  to 
turn  the  falcon  into  a  barn-door  fowl;  but  Christian 
charity  should  lead  us,  if  we  cannot  alter  their  nature, 
to  aid  in  placing  them  in  such  course  of  life,  as  may  best 
improve  and  raise  their  moral  condition,  without  requir- 
ing them  to  sacrifice  entirely,  those  strong  and  restless 
feelings,  which  seem  inherent  in  their  being,  and  the 
necessity  of  some  mysterious  law  or  predestination. 

We  sat  out  late  by  our  tents,  writing  our  notes ;  the 
long  evenings  of  clear  light,  enabled  us  often  to  snatch 
those  hours  which  in  England,  would  be  quite  dark  The 
gipsies,  before  we  retired  to  rest,  had  their  dose  of  brim- 
stone and  treacle,  and  with  many  anticipations,  we  were 
soon  buried  in  repose. 

All  was  stir  and  bustle.  Up,  Noahl — ^up,  Zachariah! — 
vand  1  All  were  moving  before  six.  Eggs,  bread,  butter, 
and  tea  for  breakfast.  Esmeralda  had  been  unwell  all 
night.  Our  gipsies  had  been  living  well,  and  without 
their  usual  exercise.  Ei:meralda  was  evidently  bilious. 
She  had  behaved  very  well,  and  was  now  deep  in  the 
mysteries  of  cooking  and  housekeeping. 

The  old  farmer  hovered  near  as  if  he  was  looking 
out  for  his  quarry.  We  had  scarcely  seen  him  about 
before.  We  were  uncertain  when  Mr.  L.  would  come, 
and  therefore  mentioned  to  the  farmer  that  we  wished  to 
pay  him  for  our  accommodation. 

He  led  the  way  into  his  house,  and  we  found  ourselves 
in  a  little  parlour,  comfortably  furnished,  but  without 
any  ventilation  :  a  picture  of  the  death-bed  of  King  Oscar 
in  1859,  two  prints  of  the  Emperor  Napoleon  III.  and 


THE  BONDEQAARD.  305 

the  Empress,  and  a  German  coloured  print  called  Elise, 
and  Our  Saviour,  were  placed  on  the  walls. 

His  daughter  brought  in  a  bottle  of  some  wine  or 

cordial,  and  a  wine-glass,   but  we  asked  for  a  cup  of 

coffee  in  preference.     In  answer  to  my  request,  the  old 

man,  w^ho  sat  on  the  other  side  of  the  table,  counted 

slowly  on  his  fingers  five  marks — "  Een  thaler,"  said  he. 

It  was  what  we  expected,  and  proceeding  to  pay  him,  we 

pulled  out  three  dollar  notes.     Not  wishing  to  pay  more 

of  our  silver  away  than  we  could  help,  we  thought  it  a 

good  opportunity  to  pay  one  of  our  dollar  notes.  Directly 

the  old  man  saw  the  notes  he  suddenly  counted  three  on 

his  fingers,  and  raised  his  demand  to  "drei  thalers."     It 

was  of  little  consequence,  and  we  paid  him  his  demand, 

disgusted  with  his  cupidity — ^three  dollars,  or  13^.  6d» 

English  money,  which  in  Norway  was  equivalent  to  the 

rent  of  a  cottage  and  ground  for  one  year  for  a  Huusmand, 

\Vhat  different  hospitaUty  the  wanderers  met  with  from 

many  not  half  so  wegjthy,  who  brought  to  our  camp 

fladbrod  for  our  acceptance.     This,  and  the  one  at  LiUe- 

hammer,  were  the  only  two  instances  we  met  with  of  any 

over-exaction  in  Norway.     We  were  told  afterwards  that 

one  dollar  was  amply  sufficient. 

We  had  almost  loaded  our  donkeys  when  Mr.  L.  came  ; 
and  at  our  wish  a  boatman  brought  up  two  very  fine  sea 
trout,  for  which  we  paid  three  marks  and  twelve  skillings, 
and  took  them  with  us. 

The  militia  were  to  commence  their  training  at  Veblun- 
gsnoes  that  morning.  One  of  our  former  acquaintances,  a 
Norwegian  captain — a  fine  specimen  of  a  thorough-going 
military  man,  erect  and  handsome,  with  his  grey  mou- 
stache— had  come  to  see  us  off.     Esmeralda  stepped  for- 


306  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

ward,  and  pinned  some  beautiful  flowers,  selected  from 
the  Aak  bouquet,  in  Mr.  L/s  coat     A  copy  of  our  song 
was  left  for  Monsieur  le  Capitaine's  son ;  another  for  Frue 
Landmark,  of  Aak ;  and  one  for  Herr  Solberg  ;  and  two 
copies  for  Mr.  L.  to  do  what  he  liked  with.  The  chevalier 
had  sent  a  very  nice  return  telegi'am  to  us.     Mr.  L.  and 
the  Captain  were  astonished  at  the  -weight  our  donkeys 
carried.     We  wished  the  farmer's  wife  and  daughter  and 
son  good-by.     The  old  man  was  absent,  probably  gloat- 
ing over  his  sudden  acquisition  of  wealth.     His  son  and 
daughter  were  very  quiet,  respectable  young  people.    The 
farm  people  collected  on  the  ground,  and,  saluting  each 
other  with  our  hats,  we  left  the  camp,  and  passed  up  the 
wide  lane  leading  to  the  main  route.     As  we  were  disap- 
pearing over  the  edge  of  the  ascent,  we  saw  the  Capitaine 
and  his  son  still  looking  after  us ;  they  waved  their  hats 
9s  we  vanished  with  a  farewell  signal  in  return. 


S'f     ' 


f' 


CHAPTER  XXVn. 

There  U  eometiiuig  remarkable  in  the  eye  of  ihe  Bomanj.  Should 
Kis  hair  and  complexion  become  as  fair  as  those  of  the  Swede  or  the 
Finn,  and  his  jockej  gait  ae  grare  and  ceremonious  as  that  of  the 
natiTe  of  Old  Castile ;  were  he  dressed  like  a  king,  a  priest,  or  a 
warrior,  still  would  the  Qitftno  be  detected  in  his  eye,  should  it  con- 

tinne  unchanged .     Its  peculiarity  consists  chiefly  in  a 

strange,  staring  expression,  which,  to  be  understood,  must  be  seen,  and 
in  a  thin  glaze  which  steals  over  it  when  in  repose,  and  seems  to  emit 
phoephoric  light.  That  the  gipsy  eye  has  sometimes  a  peculiar  effect, 
we  leam  from  the  following  stania  : — 

A  gipsy  stripling's  glossy  eye 

Has  pierced  my  bosom's  core, 
A  feat  no  eye  beneath  the  sky 

Could  e'er  effect  before. 

The  Gipsies,    By  Samuu.  RoBxaTS. 

ADIEU  AAK ROMSDAL8HORN — TROLDTINDERNE — PLADMARK  —YOUNG  NOR- 

WSaiAN  LADIES — OUR  FAIR  VISITORS — A  NIGHT  SCENE— MORNING 
MSAL — EXHAUSTED  PEASANTS — ESMERALDA's  COMPLIMENT — A  GIPSY 
CUISINE — HOW  GIPSIES  SLEEP — OUR  GUIDE  ARRIVES — THE  INVISIBLE 
BATHBR — THE  RACE — THE  RIVER  GRONA. 

We  passed  the  quiet  scenes  of  Aak  and  its  beautiful 

scenery ;  we  saw  Captain  C- ,  and  some  joujig  ladies 

coining  down  to  the  road  from  the  house.  The  charming 
terrace  before  the  house  and  grounds  are  kept  in  ex- 
cellent neatness  and  order.  Frue  Landmark  also 
came  down  to  see  our  donkeys  again.  Captain  C.  was 
going  south,  and  might  probably  overtake  us,  but  we 

z  2 


308  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

did  not  see  him  again.*     Very  useful  indeed  was  the  in- 
formation he  gave  us.    Frue  Landmark,  whom  we  saw  in 
earnest  conversation  with  Esmeralda,  presented  her  with 
some  ear-rings.  So  we  made  our  adieux  to  all,  and  left  a 
spot  so  pleasantly  described  by  Lady  Di  Beauclerk. 
Her  ladyship  is  the   daughter  of  the  ninth  Duke  of 
St.  Albans,  whose  first  wife  was  Mrs.  Coutts,  the  once 
celebrated  Miss  Mellon,  whose  interesting  memoirs  were 
published  some  years  since. 

The  sun  was  very  warm.  We  were  all  in  excellent 
spirits ;  who  could  be  otherwise  in  the  midst  of  so  much  free 
life  ?  Herr  Solberg,  the  photographer,  met  us,  apparently 
looking  for  a  Point  de  Vue.  Then  we  passed  Fiva, 
and  a  short  distance  beyond  we  halted  in  the  old  place 
among  the  green  bushes,  by  the  rippling  stream,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Romsdalshom  and  Troldtindeme.  Our 
dinner  consisted  of  some  of  the  boiled  beef,  fried  with 
butter.  It  was  about  twelve  o'clock ;  Zachariah  was  de- 
spatched trout-fishing.  Esmeralda  was  better ;  some 
quinine  in  the  morning  had  spirited  her  up.  She  was  not 
allowed  to  be  idle.  As  we  bustled  her  about,  she  said  she 
thought  the  Rye  was  in  a  murmuring  way.  Then,  as 
we  lounged  note-book  in  hand,  we  had  a  chaflf  at  Noah, 
who  was  half  asleep,  and  woke  up  looking  very  wild,  to 
be  asked,  what  he  would  take  for  his  paper  front,  and 
collar,  for  which  he  had  given  four  skillings.  The  front 
was  now.  all  but  gone.  "What  you  like,  sir,"  said 
Noah,  and  hea^dng  a  deep  sigh,  fell  back  into  the  region 
of  gipsy  dreams  sounder  than  ever.  We  looked  in  vain 
for  the  invalid  visitor  who  was  to  take  the  place  of  Kip 

*  Captain  CampbeU,  author  of  the  excellent  and  useful  work  on  Nor- 
way, publiflhed  soon  afterwards,  entitled  *'  How  to  See  Noiway.'* 


TROLDTINDERNE.  309 

Van  Winkle,  and  somnolency  resulting,  who  knows  but 
we  ourselves  might  not  have  been  there  now ;  but  the 
good  genii  of  the  magician's  peaks  awoke  us.     There 
were  the  dark  fantastic  rocks,  streaked  in  gilded  rays  of 
the  summer's  sun.     The  distant  roar  of  thunder  in  the 
lofty  precipices,  produced  by  falling  snow,  sounded  in 
the   narrow    gorge.      Our  donkeys   had   strayed ;    we 
aroused  Noah  from  a  deep  sleep,  who  disappeared  down 
the  valley  and  brought  them  back.     On  his  return,  he 
said  he  had  seen   a  number  of  gentlemen   along  the 
Eauma  near  Fiva,  with  guns  and  fishing-rods.     It  was 
nearly  four  o'clock.    The  donkeys  were  hastily  loaded,  and 
we  were  again  en  route.   Zachariah  was  overtaken  before 
we  reached  Horgheim,  and  had  succeeded  in  catching 
twenty-three  small  trout.     A  young  traveller  and  his 
wife  came  up  in  a  stolkjoerre,  and  kept  behind  us  till  we 
got  to  Horgheim.     They  wanted  us  to  stay  there,  so  that 
they  might  get  first  on  account  of  the  donkeys,  but  we 
were  pressed  for  time,  and  when  they  came  up  after- 
wards, their  horse  passed  very  quietly.     The  traveller, 
who  was  Norwegian;  spoke  English,  and  they  appeared 
a  newly-married  couple.     We  passed  our  old  camping- 
ground  beyond  "  Horgheim,"  and  bought  a  mark's  worth 
of  fladbrod  from  the  woman  of  the  house.    Our  old  camp 
near  the  leaning-stone  was  our  intended  destination.     At 
one  part  of  the  road  we  met  a  number  of  carrioles.     A 
lady  in  a  green  Tyrolese  hat  and  feather,  who  seemed 
unaccustomed  to  driving,  was  one  of  the  party.     As  she 
passed,  the^pony  shied,  and  the  boy  who  stood  upon  the 
board  behind  her,  with  great  quickness,  seized  the  reins. 
"P-r-r-r-h — ^p-r-r-r-h,"  said  the  boy,  and  away  they  dashed 
past  us.    The  boy,  afterwards,  reined  the  pony  up  rather 


310  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

sharply  ;  the  pony  reared,  and  the  lady  jumped  out  vith 
a  small  scream ;  the  gentleman  we  took  for  her  husband 
bringing  up  the  rear,  parsed  quietly  enough,  and  as  no 
one  was  hurt,  we  again  continued  our  way. 

We  passed  Fladmark ;  our  donkeys  had  not  lost  their 
interest  to  the  peasantry ;  many  collected  to  see  them. 
Fladmark  seems  a  large  station  and  the  scenery  is  veiy 
picturesque.  In  fact,  at  every  turn  we  had  fresh  scenes 
to  admire.  When  we  had  passed  Kors  and  were  drawing 
near  our  old  camping  ground,  in  passing  through  a  gate 
on  the  road,  our  Puru  Rawnee  ran  our  packs  against  the 
gate-post,  and  broke  a  bottle  of  port  wine.  Noah  and 
Zachariah  caught  some  in  the  kettle  lid,  which  they  were 
allowed  to  drink.  We  did  not  feel  inclined  to  take  any 
ourselves.  Esmeralda  had  a  very  small  quantity,  but 
the  stimulant  made  her  feel,  she  said,  very  queer.  Then 
we  followed  on  slowly  with  her,  for  she  was  rather  tired, 
whilst  Noah  and  Zachariah  pushed  on  in  advance.  We 
were  soon  afterwards  overtaken  by  a  stolkjoerre ;  a  man 
was  driving  two  young  ladies,  and  a  young  gentleman, 
their  brother,  was  walking.  They  stopped  after  they 
had  passed  us,  and  seeing  that  they  wished  to  speak,  we 
addressed  them.  The  one  young  lady,  who  spoke  Eng- 
lish very  well,  said  they  had  come  to  Veblungsnoes  by 
steamer,  where  they  had  heard  of  us,  and  had  seen  our 
song.  They  wished  very  much  to  see  our  "deer." 
Many  in  Norway  took  our  donkeys  for  a  species  of  rein- 
deer capable  of  carrying  weights.  The  young  ladies  were 
very  agreeable  and  good  looking ;  something  very  charm- 
ing about  them.  They  seemed  much  interested  in  our  ex- 
pedition. Being  told  that  our  gipsies  were  in  advance, 
and  where  we  should  encamp,  they  drove  after  them. 


OUR  FAIR  VISITORS,  311 

When  Esmeralda  and  myself  reached  the  leaning-stone 
in  the  valley  of  the  Sjiriaghis  Fjeld,  it  was  getting  dusk. 
The  young  ladies  were  looking  at  our  things  just  un- 
packed, and  Noah  was  putting  up  the  tents  on  the  old 
camp  ground  near  the  large  rock.  The  young  ladies 
wished  to  hear  us  play,  but  something  to  eat  was  a  pre- 
liminary necessity  before  we  could  give  them  any  music. 
They  decided,  therefore,  to  wait  The  young  ladies 
said,  "  We  should  much  wish  to  hear  you  play ;  we  heard 
of  you  at  Veblungsnoes/'  Our  tents  were  soon  pitched, 
and  Zachariah,  who  had  given  up  grumbling  about  his 
churie,  got  our  tea  and  broiled  meat  ready  with  remark- 
able celerity.  The  young  ladies  said,  "We  should  so 
like  to  sleep  in  a  tent."  **  Do  you  not  find  it  cold  ? " 
"  No,"  we  said,  "  We  have  a  waterproof  on  the  ground, 
and  a  carpet  over  that.  It  is  all  we  require  for  our  bed." 
Then  as  we  were  going  to  tea  in  our  tents  the  young 
ladies  decided  to  take  something  to  eat  themselves  at  our 
camp  fire.*  They  gave  us  some  dried  rein-deer  meat, 
and  we  gave  them  some  of  our  biscuit.  Noah  said  they 
were  such  nice  young  ladies  he  could  give  them  any- 
thing, and  sent  Esmeralda  with  his  panakin  of  tea  in- 
stead of  having  it  himself.  Esmeralda  did  not  eat  any- 
thing, and  went  and  talked  to  them.  Then  we  sent 
them  bread-and-butter,  and  finished  our  tea.  The 
young  ladies  sent  their  cards  to  our  tents  whilst  we  were 

at  tea.     Miss  Grethe  S ,  of  Halsund,  and  Miss  Marie 

B ,  of  Molde.     Then  they  came  from  the  camp  fire 

where  they  had  finished  their  repast.     The  shades  of 
evening  had  fallen;  the  sound  of  the  waters  of  the 

•  The  engraving  of  the  valley  of  the  Sjiriaglns  Fjeld  represents  our 
camp,  near  the  "  Leaning  Stone." 


312  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

Rauma  came  upon  the  night.  Their  brother  and  the 
driver  of  their  stolkjoerre  joined  them  as  they  stood  at 
our  tents,  in  the  valley  of  the  cascades,  of  wild  scenery, 
of  all  that  was  beautiful  in  nature.  Much  pleased  they 
seemed,  as  they  listened  to  our  gipsy  song,  and  still 
more  pleased  they  appeared  when  we  presented  each 
with  a  copy.  We  played  for  them  several  airs  with  our 
guitar,  violin,  and  tambourine.  It  was  twelve  o'dock 
when  they  left  to  go  on  to  Ormein  for  the  night.  We 
had  had  a  long  day ;  as  they  left,  I  found  that  one  of 
the  young  ladies  had  presented  Noah  with  a  cigar-holder. 
Soundly  we  slept,  for  we  did  not  awake  until  eight 
o'clock.  One  of  our  sea  trout  fried  in  buttered  writing 
paper  was  delicious  for  breakfast  We  were  just  leaving, 
at  twelve  o'clock,  when  a  drayman  came  up,  and  we 
gave  him  some  brandy.  He  said  an  English  gentleman 
was  coming  to  Ostersund  to  fish  in  the  "  Glommen,"  in 
August.  The  man  said  his  son  could  speak  English 
very  well.  For  some  time  he  followed  us  along  the 
road,  but  at  last  we  left  him  behind.  The  sun  was 
exceedingly  hot  when  we  reached  Ormein.*  As  we 
approached  the  station  the  two  young  ladies  rushed  out 
One  had  two  plates  in  her  hand.  They  shook  hands 
with  all  of  us,  and  we  had  a  very  warm  welcome  indeed. 
Their  brother  brought  some  water  for  the  donkeys.  The 
young  traveller  and  his  wife  were  also  there.     A  very 

enthusiastic  reception  we  had.     Miss  S ,  said,  she 

had  come  there  to  meet  a  sister  from  Christiania.  But 
time  presses,  we  must  away;  the  comfortable  station 
must  be  left.  With  many  adieux  and  godt  reisen  from  the 

*  So  spelt  in  the  Kristians  Amt  map  ;  occasionally  spelt  Onnen. 


EXHA  USTED  PEASANTS.  313 

young  ladies,  we  ascended  the  hilly  road  from  the  station 
and  left  the  beautiful  scenery  which  surrounds  it. 

Staying  at  our  old  camping-ground  near  the  "  Soendre 
Sletten  fossen,"  we  had  our  mid^day  meal — tea,  fladbrod, 
and  butter.  Noah  and  Zachariah  played  some  music, 
whilst  Esmeralda  had  some  instruction  in  dancing. 
Between  four  and  five  o'clock  our  party  were  again  en 
route  up  the  zig-zag  hilly  road,  with  Vand  fos,  rock,  or 
forest,  continually  in  view. 

At  one  point  of  the  road  a  man,  woman,  and  child 
came  running  after  us.  They  wished  to  see  the  donkeys. 
Noah  and  Zachariah  were  far  on  before.  The  peasants' 
countenances  were  marked  with  an  expression  of  earnest 
anxiety.  The  gipsies  kept  pushing  on.  Esmeralda  said, 
"We  can't  stop  for  every  gorgio,"  and  away  ran  the 
man  up  the  hill  with  his  small  boy  tugging  at  his  belt 
behind,  and  the  wife  following,  ready  to  sink  for  want 
of  breath.  We  came  just  in  sight  of  our  gipsies  at  a 
turn  of  the  road,  and  shouted,  when  they  at  last  halted 
very  reluctantly. 

The  peasants,  we  were  glad  to  see,  reached  them,  but 
nearly  exhausted  with  haste  and  fatigua  Some  more 
people  came  from  a  house  near,  and  brought  some  hay 
for  the  donkeys.  We  were  anxious  for  our  peasant 
friends  to  see  the  animals,  and  many  were  the  ques- 
tions they  asked.  When  we  talked  of  winter  they 
seemed  to  shiver,  and  a  shade  of  melancholy  passed  over 
their  countenances.  After  a  halt  of  about  ten  minutes 
we  again  continued  our  journey. 

As  we  reached  the  summit  of  the  hill  near  "Stue- 
flaaten"  the  clouds  threatened  rain.  At  Stueflaaten 
station  a  delicate-looking  woman  with   a   stout   chUd 


314  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

showed  us  into  the  guest-chamber.     There  were  two 
beds.    The  walk  of  the  chamber  were  painted  green  and 
red.     Some  photographs  also  adorned  the  room,  which 
was  very  clean,  but  to  us  the  atmosphere  was  too  close 
to  be  pleasant.     They  procured  for  us   some  butter, 
potatoes,  and  fladbrod,  for  which  we  paid  three  marks. 
They  gave  us  full  value  for  our  money.      The  evening 
was  wearing  rapidly  on  as  we  left  the  station.    Very  soon 
after  we  met  a  carriage  and  pair,  in  which  sat  a  dark- 
eyed  traveller.     His  hair  was  jet  black.     Our  gipsies  had 
to  look  sharp  to  get  our  donkeys  in  single  file,  and  as  we 
brought  up  the  rear  with  our  alpenstock  the  traveller 
scanned  our  party  with  much  curiosity.     Esmeralda  paid 
hun  the  compJent  afterwards  of  Zying  hie  hair  wae 
as  dark  as  any  Romany's. 

It  was  getting  late,  as  dusty  and  travel-worn  we  came 
on  to  the  open  moorland  by  "Bover  Moen."  This 
time  we  camped  near  two  or  three  broken  firs,  not  very 
far  from  the  road,  and  near  a  hedge  enclosing  a  thick 
wood.  Very  shortly  after  our  gipsies  had  unloaded  our 
things,  and  had  lighted  our  fire,  three  fishermen,  appeared 
in  the  distance  coming  towards  us.  One  was  better 
dressed  than  the  others,  and  was  the  only  wooden- 
legged  man  we  saw  in  Norway.  He  was  stout  and 
portly.  From  his  waistcoat  he  had  suspended  two  small 
trout,  the  result  of  his  fishing  expedition.  Each  had 
some  of  our  brandy-and- water,  and  drank  to  Gamle  Norge. 
Some  boys  came  afterwards  and  brought  some  grass  for 
the  donkeys.  Then  they  watched  our  cooking  with 
interest.  Whilst  Esmeralda  was  getting  the  potatoes 
ready,  we  fried  some  sea-trout  in  buttered  writing-paper. 
Very  much  surprised  they  seemed  at  the  luxury  of  our 


HOW  GIPSIES  SLEEP.  316 

cuisine.  Then  Esmeralda  fried  some  fish  in  the  ordinary 
way,  and  also  some  sliced  potatoes.  We  enjoyed  our  tea  on 
that  open  moorland,  in  sight  of  a  foaming  waterfall  down 
the  mountain-side  by  the  Boverho.  Brandy-and-water 
was  handed  round  to  those  peasants  assembled.  Ourself 
on  guitar,  and  Zachariah  with  his  violin,  sitting  as  much 
in  the  smoke  of  the  fire  as  possible,  on  account  of  the 
myriads  of  musketos,  played  lively  airs,  whilst  Noah 
was  pitching  the  tents.  Esmeralda  was  engaged  putting 
up  the  tea-things  with  every  now  and  then  a  hearty  de- 
nunciation of  the  "  migs "  or  musketos.  Some  young 
peasant-girls  came  in  time  for  the  music.  One,  a 
very  modest,  pretty  girl,  knitting  a  stocking,  or  a 
strumper,  as  the  gipsies  called  it  Another  peasant-girl 
brought  us  some  milk,  which  she  sold  us  for  three 
skiUings.  When  our  music  was  finished,  and  the  pea- 
sants had  wished  us  good-night,  we  retired  to  rest.  Rest 
indeed  for  Zachariah.  He  was  the  smallest  of  the  party, 
and  the  mosketos  with  excellent  generalship  concen- 
trated their  attacks  upon  the  weakest  point,  when 
Zachariah  killed  one,  two  were  in  its  place.  Wildly  he 
scratched,  slapped,  tumbled,  and  tossed,  to  his  brother's 
disgust^  who  would  say  sharply,  **  Now  then,  can't  you 
be  quiet  ?"  Where  are  you  getting  your  piro*  (gip.,  foot) 
to.    Can't  you  lie  still,  and  let  me  go  to  sleep." 

Many  readers  may  imagine  that  the  brothers  slept  side 
by  side.  They  slept  in  true  Romany  fashion,  that  is,  the 
feet  of  each  are  placed  on  each  side  of  the  head,  or  under 
the  arms  of  the  other.  In  this  way  a  wonderful  amount 
of  warmth  is  obtained.     One  blanket  covered  both,  and 

*  Piro  ia  used  in  the  Norwegian,  German,  French,  Italian,  Spanish,  and 
Turkish  gipy  language  to  signify  foot.  In  the  Turkish  gipsy,  pinro,  pimo, 
and  pindo  are  also  used. 


316  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

sometiines   we   might   see   in  a  morning    NoaVs  feet 
sticking  out  on  each  side  of  Zachariah's  head. 

The  weather  seemed  inclined  for  rain  the  night  before, 
but  the  morning  of  Wednesday,  27th  July,  was  delightful 
Noah  was  roused  before  six  o'clock.  To-day  we  should 
be  in  the  mountains.  We  heard  Ole  Kodsheim  had 
been  at  Stueflaaten.  The  trout  Zachariah  had  caught 
were  fried  for  breakfast ;  four  pounds  of  beef,  the  re- 
mainder of  what  we  had  bought  at  Veblungsnoes  was  re- 
luctantly condemned  as  spoilt.  The  hot  weather  had 
quite  spoiled  it  Some  Norwegian  girls  came,  and  we 
had  three  skillings'  worth  of  milk,  and  twelve  skillings' 
worth  of  stamped  sweet  fladbrod.  Our  donkeys  were 
nearly  loaded  about  nine  o'clock,  when  we  saw  Ole 
Rodsheim  stepping  over  the  moorland.  He  did  not 
think  we  had  arrived,  but  came  to  look  out  for  us. 
He  scarcely  expected  we  should  manage  the  distance  in 
the  time. 

Ole  Rodsheim  had  stayed  the  night  at  "  Enebo."  As 
we  pissed  the  house  he  took  a  cup  of  coffee,  and  we 
soon  after  crossed  the  Enebo  bridge,  entered  a  beautiful 
green  lane,  and  left  the  main  route  before  coming  to 
Molmen.  It  was  delightful  to  find  ourselves  no  longer 
on  the  hard  road. 

Ole  Rodsheim  led  the  way  from  the  lane  by  a  track 
through  the  open  woodland.  Now  we  come  suddenly 
upon  a  purling  stream  of  water  with  deep  holes,  shaded 
from  the  summer  sim  of  the  hot  and  sultry  day.  What 
is  this  we  see  on  the  bank  near  a  pool  in  the  stream  ?  A 
heap  of  woman's  clothes ;  even  her  shoes  ;  but  where  s 
the  woman  ?  Instinctively  we  looked  into  the  quiet 
pool  formed  by  the  stream,  but  no  water-nymph  was 


THE  INVISIBLE  BATUEK  317 

there.     There  was  the  clear  gravelly  bed  which  made  us 
wish  to  taJ^e  a  refreshing  plunge. 

The  clothes  were  left.  The  woman  was  gone.  Pro- 
bably wandering  about  in  the  forest.  We  hope  she  did 
not  unhappily  lose  herself.  It  is  one  of  the  mysteries 
of  this  book  we  shall  never  be  able  to  clear. 

At  one  log  chalet  Ole  Eodsheim  took  an  old  man  with 
us  for  a  short  distance.  At  another  part  of  our  winding 
way  up  some  open  ground  towards  the  woods,  we  could 
see  on  the  opposite  side  the  valley  sloping  to  the  stream 
below  a  man  and  woman  running  at  the  top  of  their 
speed  in  the  hot  sun  towards  a  bridge  over  the  river. 
Our  party  were  fast  ascending  towards  the  ridge  of  the 
ascent,  and  would  soon  be  out  of  sight.  Sometimes  the 
woman  gained  ground  upon  the  man.  Every  muscle  was 
strained.  It  was  the  best  steeplechase  we  ever  saw. 
Then  they  dashed  wildly  across  a  slight  wooden  bridge  at 
some  distance  off.  We  purposely  delayed  our  cavalcade, 
to  let  them  have  a  chance,  and  panting  for  breath  and 
almost  exhausted,  they  ultimately  reached  us.  The  admi- 
ration they  exhibited  for  the  noble  animals  with  which 
we  travelled  left  no  doubt  that  they  felt  quite  rewarded 
for  their  long  and  well-contested  race.  We  forget  which 
came  up  first. 

Passing  to  the  "  Grona  elv,"  above  Molmen,  we  had 
the  opportunity  of  seeing  the  picturesque  waterfall 
called  the  Grona  fos.  It  roars  through  overhanging 
rocks,  and  high  above  the  Grona  we  reached  a  slight 
horse-bridge  stretched  over  a  wide  deep  chastn,  with  the 
rapid  waters  of  the  river  below.  Very  little  attention 
appears  to  be  given  to  these  bridges.  The  planks  were 
loose,  and  in  places  out,  and  some  were  not  fastened. 


318  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOBWAY. 

Stopping  up  the  open  places  as  well  as  our  materials 
WQuld  allow,  we  determined  to  risk  our  animals.  They 
fortunately  went  over  the  bridge  exceedingly  well,  kt 
the  last  heavily  laden  donkey  nearly  slipped  its  hind  1^ 
through  an  awkward  crevice,  and  was  only  just  savei 

Ole  Rodsheim  was  very  handy  in  our  first  experience 
of  Norwegian  mountain-bridges,  and  quite  verified  our 
early  formed  opinion  of  his  quick  readiness  of  resource. 

Now  we  were  winding  through  a  forest  of  firs  and  birch. 
Very  warm  it  was,  but  the  way  was  delightful.  There 
were  two  tracks  to  the  Ny  Sceter,  but  Ole  chose  the  track 
by  a  soeter,  we  believe  called  the  Grona  Soeter.*  This  we 
reached  in  good  time.  The  soeter  is  built  on  a  wooded 
plateau  above  a  wUd  gorge  through  which  the  river 
Grona  takes  its  course. 

*  Soeter  is  pronounced  "saiter,"  and,  like  the  chftlet  in  Switaerland, 
affords  rough  accommodation  on  the  cattle  run,  in  the  mountains,  often  at 
a  long  distance  from  the  valley  farm  to  which  it  belongs.  The  cattle  are 
driven  up  from  the  valley,  at  tiie  beginning  of  the  summer,  for  pasture,  ana 
the  butter  and  cheese  are  made  at  the  soeter.  At  the  end  of  the  snmmeri  the 
cattle  are  driven  back  to  the  valley  farms,  and  housed  for  the  winter. 


CHAPTEB  XXVm. 

— Je  ne  connaiB  pas  de  reine  de  oe  oom-UL 

— ^MSme  parmi  lea  nngariB  ? 

— C'eat  vrai,  dit  Femand,  j'onbliaia  lea  Boh^miena  ont  dea  roia. 

^Et  dea  reineay  dit  Gineata.   - 

L$  SaUSador,  par  Albxaitdrx  Dvuab, 

"  I  do  not  know  any  queen  of  tliat  name." 

"  Even  among  the  gipeiea  ? " 

"  It  ia  true,"  said  Femand,  *'  I  had  foigotten  the  gipaiea  hare  kings." 

**  And  queens,"  said  (Hnesta. 

BOTANIBIKO — ^BSMEBALDA  LOST — FOUND  AGAIN — THE  EAGLE — MOUNTAIN 
DIFFICULTIEa— MOUNTAIN  BIVOUAC— ESMERALDA  ILL — OLE'S  BED — 
HOTEL  BILLS— BOUGH  ROUTE  —  DONKEYS  IN  SNOW — THE  PURU 
RAWNEE  DOWN — THE  NT  SCBTER — GIPSY  DISCUSSION — THE  ENGLISH- 
MAN'S HOUSE  —  HOSPITALITY  —  NORWEGIAN  NAMES  —  FILLINGSHd— 
LARGE  LAKE. 

No  one  was  at  the  soeter.  After  a  middags-mad  of  tea, 
bacon,  potatoes,  fladbrod  and  butter,  and  a  rest,  we  con- 
tinued our  journey.  After  pursuing  our  rough  mountain 
track  for  a  short  time,  we  left  the  forest  of  the  steep 
mountain  side,  and  commenced  a  toilsome  ascent,  in  a 
warm  sun,  across  a  wild  rocky  ravine,  bare  of  trees,  with 
a  stream  running  down  it.  It  was  not  very  deep.  Our 
party  slowly  ascended  one  side  of  the  ravine  towards  the 
higher  slopes  of  the  mountain. 

Gradually  Esmeralda  and  ourself,  who  were  collecting 
wild  flowers,  and  Alpine  Flora,  were  left  behind. 
Patches  of  snow  rested  here  and  there  as  we  ascended 


320  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

the  sides  of  the  "  Hjrrjon  Fjeld."     The  open  mountain 
was  rocky  and  bare  of  vegetation.     Gradually  and  slowly 
we  ascended  higher  and  higher,  when  we  suddenly  missed 
our  party.     Track  there  was  none  distinguishable.    We 
ascended  to  some  higher  ridges  ;  but  could  see  nothing  of 
our  guide,  gipsies,  or  donkeys.     A  white  handkerchief 
was  fastened  to  the  end  of  our  Alpenstock.      We  used 
the  shrill  cry  of  the  Australian  signal  and  cooed  loudly, 
but  could. hear  no  signal  in  return.     Not  a  vestige  of 
human  life  was  to  be  seen  on  the  rugged  mountain  slopes 
around  us.     It  was  quite  deal*  that  somehow  we  were 
lost     We  had  our  compass  ;  but  then,  we  had  no  ide^ 
as  to  the  course  across  the  mountains  Ole  Rodsheim  pro- 
posed to  take, 

Esmeralda  did  not  appear  much  disconcerted  by  the 
incident.  It  was  a  scene  for  the  artist's  pencil,  as  the 
gipsy-girl  ascended  a  hillock  strewn  with  loose  grey  rocks, 
covered  with  lichen.  There  she  stood  in  the  evening 
sun,  in  a  distant  land  across  the  sea,  the  blue  feathers  of 
her  small  straw  hat,  waving  in  the  light  warm  breeze. 
One  could  not  help  feeUng,  that  there  was  something 
more  than  common  in  this  mystic  race.  The  lone  figure 
of  the  gipsy-girl,  whose  home  was  nature,  seemed  the 
queen  of  the  wide  expanse  of  barren  "  Fjeld  "  which  she 
then  surveyed.  She  gave  a  whistle — that  peculiar  shrill 
whistle  which  is  known  among  themselves ;  a  whistle, 
which,  if  not  heard  quite  at  Christiania,  certainly  must 
have  disturbed  the  wild  rein-deer  of  the  surrounding 
iQelds  from  their  slumbers. 

We  had  almost  come  to  the  conclusion  that  we  might 
have  to  spend  the  night  as  best  we  could  on  the  "Hyijon 
Fjeld ;  "  just  then  we  heard  a  return  signal  across  some 


THE  EAGLE.  321 

ravines  beyond  us  to  our  right  Zachariah  had  come  back 
in  search.  They  had  turned  sharply  across  the  mountain 
slope  to  the  right,  and  were  hidden  from  view  by  the 
intervening  ravines.  We  raced  across  the  mountain  side, 
and  crossing  some  snow  slopes  of  a  ravine,  getting  well 
ahead,  we  kept  up  a  sharp  and  rapid  fire  of  snowballs  at 
Esmeralda,  prudently  retreating  immediately  afterwards 
in  pursuit  of  our  party.* 

Noah  and  Ole  Eodsheim  were  waiting.  The  donkeys 
were  soon  in  motion. 

"  Ah  1 "  said  Noah,  who  had  a  great  contempt  for 
botanical  research ;  "  That's  the  way  with  Mr.  Smith ;  he 
plucks  a  flower,  and  then  calls  daughter  to  look  at  it» 
She  says  it's  very  pretty;  and  there  they  stand  till 
nobody  can  tell  what  has  become  of  them." 

Poor  Noah  !  botany  was  not  his  forte.  But  all  was  sun- 
shine again,  and  we  quietly  pursued  our  rough  uneven 
way. 

Our  path  was  now  in  the  wild  i^^lds.  Ole  had  his 
peculiar  landmarks.  Sometimes  it  was  a  rock ;  some- 
times a  large  stone  placed  edgeways  or  on  the  top  of 
another.  For  some  time  we  kept  along  the  side  of  a 
rugged  slope.  A  large  black  and  white  eagle  soared  above 
us  with  a  hawk  near  it.  It  gave  life  to  the  scene.  Soon 
afterwards  we  came  to  an  old  reingrav.  This  i^  a  kind 
of  pit  or  trap  formed  of  loose  stones,  into  which  the  rein- 
deer were  sometimes  driven  by  the  hunters.  A  portion  of 
a  reindeer's  horn  was  picked  up  by  Noah  and  given  to  us. 

*  We  were  more  fortunate  than  Williams,  who,  during  his  knapsack 
tour,  lost  his  way  when  crossing  over  the  Kj6len  Fjeldene  to  Skeaker,  and 
was  alone,  without  food  or  rest,  for  nearly  twenty-four  hours— page  202  of 
"  Through  Norway  with  a  Knapsack." 


322  TENT  UFE  IN  NORWAY. 

Our  way  became  more  difficult.  Each  of  the  gipdes 
had  to  lead  their  donkey.  The  ground  was  in  places  very 
treacherous,  and  we  often  came  to  steep  descents.  The 
Puru  Rawnee,  who  was  loaded  much  more  heavily  than  the 
other  two,  got  her  hind  legs  into  very  deep  ground  near 
some  rocks,  and  was  with  difficulty  extricated.  At  some 
distance  beyond,  in  descending  a  slope,  the  Puru  Rawnee 
went  right  into  a  quicksand.  We  had  to  imload  her, 
and  the  ground  being  full  of  loose  stones,  we  were  afraid 
she  would  cut  her  legs  all  to  pieces.  Noah  was  almost 
despairing.    It  was  his  first  experience  of  mountain  work. 

"What  can  we  do,  sir?"  said  he,  in  a  melancholy 
tone,  *•  in  such  rough  roads  as  these  ? " 

Ole  Eodsheim  came  back  to  us,  and  we  carried  most  of 
the  things  some  distance  down  to  firmer  ground.  Again 
loading,  we  started  once  more.  ♦  Zachariah  was  as  hvely 
as  ever,  with  his  donkey  the  Puro  Rye,  making  short  cuts, 
and  going  now  and  then  in  advance,  until  warned  to  be 
careful.  We  kept  our  course,  until  at  last,  crossing  a 
streamlet,  in  spite  of  every  precaution,  the  Puru  Rawnee 
sank  right  into  another  quicksand,  out  of  which  we  had 
much  difficulty  in  extricating  her.  The  things  had  to  be 
taken  off!  We  proposed  camping  out  where  we  were ; 
for  the  donkeys,  especially  the  Puru  Rawnee,  were  getting 
tired. 

Ole  Rodsheim  suggested  that  there  was  better  camping 
ground  on  the  other  side  a  mountain  ravine,  a  short  dis- 
tance beyond.  We  decided  to  make  a  push  for  it,  and 
soon  after  succeeded  in  reaching  a  wide  rocky  ravine. 
The  stream  was  broken  into  many  rivulets.  The  torrent's 
bed  was  strewn  with  loose  rocks ;  so  that  with  our  tired 
loaded  animals,  we  crossed  with  difficulty,  and  winding 


CLE'S  BED,  323 

round  the  foot  of  a  lofty  knowle  above  the  ravine,  we 
entered  a  shallow  gully  at  the  back  of  it.  Ascending  a 
gentle  slope  to  the  flat  summit  of  the  knowle,  we  found  an 
excellent  camping  ground. 

The  conical  hill  was  just  adapted  for  our  tents.  To  our 
right  the  waters  of  many  streams  issued  from  the  large 
snow-field  we  could  see  at  a  short  distance  up  the  ravine. 
In  front,  at  the  foot  of  a  long  slope,  and  crossing  the  end 
of  the  ravine,  we  could  see  the  deep  valley  of  the  Grona, 
and  above  us  the  Skarvehoeme. 

'  Our  tents  were  soon  pitched.  Ole  Eodsheim  said  he 
should  camp  out  if  we  could  lend  him  a  blanket.  Our 
fire  was  lighted,  and  we  shared  with  him  our  tea,  eggs, 
fladbrod,  and  butter.  Esmeralda  lay  on  the  ground  near 
the  camp-fire,  and  could  not  take  anything.  She  was 
taken  very  unwelL  She  wished  to  be  left  in  peace, '  and 
to  Noah,  who  asked  her  again,  she  said  "  No !  "  so  sharply 
that  he  quickly  left  her. 

Ole  Eodsheim  went  to  make  his  bed  under  a  rock  on 
the  side  of  the  gully  below  us.  His  little  wallet,  and 
small  brass  camp-kettle  in  it,  were  left  by  our  smouldering 
fire.  Almost  immediately  after  down  came  torrents  of 
rain.  We  had  just  time  to  seize  our  waterproof  rug 
which  we  slept  on,  and  our  guide's  wallet  Our  first 
thought  was  for  him.  He  had  just  formed  a  sort  of 
nest  like  a  coflBn  with  loose  stones,  the  lower  part  covered 
over  by  flat  stones  stuffed  with  loose  heath  and  stunted 
birch.  In  an  instant  he  was  stretched  in  his  form. 
Throwing  the  waterproof  over  him,  we  gave  him  his 
wallet  underneath,  and  left  him  for  the  night.  There  was 
one  satisfaction,  our  guide  would  be  perfectly  dry  if  not 
particularly  warm  in  his  mountain  quarters. 

Y  2 


324  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

Eetuming  to  the  tents  in  pouring  rain,  we  unfolded 
our  waterproof,  and  placed  it  over  the  tents,  for  the 
moisture  was  akeady  making  its  way  through  our 
blanket  covering.  Esmeralda  had  crawled  in,  and  was 
lying  in  a  very  helpless  state.  We  had  to  move  her,  whikt 
we  made  her  bed,  and  packed  her  up  comfortable  for 
the  night.  She  might  be  bilious  from  the  middags-mad 
of  potatoes  and  bacon ;  but  she  said  afterwards  it  was 
owing  to  a  sudden  chill  when  she  ate  some  snow,  or  from 
her  wet  feet  Giving  her  some  brandy  the  last  thing, 
for  she  did  not  know  how  she  felt,  we  hoped  our  universal 
panacea  would  effect  a  cure. 

Just  before  going  to  bed,  the  rain  ceased;  and  going 
to  Ole,  a  voice  under  the  waterproof  said  he  Wiis 
very  comfortable.  As  we  were  going  into  our  tents, 
we  could  not  help  gazing  on  the  magnificent  sea 
of  white  mist  rising  from  the  deep  valley  of  the  Grona 
below.* 

Soon  after  five  o'clock  we  were  up,  and  descending  in 
a  thick  mist  to  the  ravine,  we  had  a  good  wash.  The 
donkeys  were  inspected,  and  their  legs  carefully  rubbed 
down  with  our  bruise  mixture,  which  was  an  universal 
remedy  for  all  cuts,  bruises,  aches,  and  pains.  Ole  was 
apparently  sleeping  soundly,  and  we  did  not  disturb 
him.  Our  gipsies  got  up,  and  at  six  o'clock  Ole  was 
moving  and  none  the  worse  for  his  rough  accommodation. 
He  had,  I  believe,  been  up  before  to  see  if  the  donkeys 
were  safe.  Everything  was  wet,  and  no  fuel  could  be 
found  but  one  or  two  damp  sticks  from  the  ravine,  and 
the  roots  of  heath  and  dwarf  birch.  A  fire  seemed 
hopeless,  but  our  Eussian  lamp  overcame  all  difficulty, 

*  Qrona  elv,  green  river. 


DONKEYS  IN  SNOW.  325 

and  we  soon  had  a  fire.     Tea  and  fladbrod  and  butter 
formed  our  breakfast. 

Whilst  we  were  loading  our  donkeys,  a  pale,  large- 
boned  peasant  appeared.  No  one  knew  from  whence, 
but  he  was  able  to  quaff  some  of  our  brandy.  Esmeralda 
was  again  tolerably  well.  As  Ole  proceeded  in  advance, 
and  we  were  ascending  the  right  slope  of  the  ravine,  he 
shouted — "  Ah,  Mr.  Smith  1  you  have  no  hotel  bills  to 
settle,  sir."  Ole  seemed  to  have  taken  a  deep  interest  in 
our  mode  of  life. 

Our  ascent  up  rocky  slopes  was  laborious  and  heavy. 
The  Digervarden  Fjeld  on  our  left,  and  the  Gronhoeme 
on  our  right.  In  the  distance  was  the  Skarvdalseggen 
and  the  Digerkampen.  With  even  pace  we  followed  our 
rough  stony  track,  often  near  slopes  of  snow.  All  nature 
was  as  desolate  and  sterile  as  could  well  be  imagined. 
Although  lightened  of  its  load,  our  Puru  Rawnee  had 
stUl  a  heavy  weight  It  was  necessary  to  be  very  careful 
as  to  boggy  ground.  At  one  place,  notwithstanding  all 
care,  she  was  effectually  bogged  in  a  deep  quagmire,  and 
with  difficulty  pulled  out.  Crossing  a  sterile  ridge  of  loose 
gray  rocks,  Ole  suggested  we  should  try  some  large 
snow  slopes  as  easier,  which  we  did.  Sometimes  where 
the  snow  was  not  deep  we  managed  very  well,  and  passed 
over  slopes  of  smooth  frozen  snow  glittering  in  the  sun. 

Occasionally,  as  we  again  came  to  the  rocks,  the  snow 
was  deep,  and  we  found  ourselves  for  a  few  feet  plunging 
with  our  donkeys  above  our  knees  in  snow,  and  the 
loaded  animals  could  scarcely  get  through.  Again  we 
were  picking  oiu*  way  over  loose  rocks,  with  occasional 
reaches  of  frozen  snow  to  cross.  Our  journey  was  toil- 
some.   The  upper  portions  of  our  route  were  sterile  and 


326  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

dreary,  without  that  abrupt  boldness  of  outline  which 
gives  an  interest  to  the  scene.  As  we  commenced  our  de- 
scent to  the  valley  of  the  Lora  Elv,  to  reach  the  Ny  Sceter, 
we  had  to  descend  a  very  rough  mountain  track,  difficult 
for  our  already  tired  donkeys.  Still  we  were  anxious  to 
reach  the  Ny  Soeter  before  we  called  a  halt  At  last, 
at  an  awkward  place,  the  Puru  Rawnee  fell,  and,  in 
trying  to  recover  itself,  again  fell,  with  its  head  doubled 
under  its  body.  The  Whole  weight  of  the  packs  slipped 
forward  upon  it.  As  it  rolled  over  and  lay  motionless, 
we  thought  our  beautiful  Puru  Rawnee  had  broken  its 
neck.  Quickly  getting  the  baggage  away,  we  let  it  he 
quiet.  After  some  short  time,  it  seemed  to  recover,  and 
got  up.  Ole  Eodsheim  shouldered  our  fishing  rods  and 
some  heavy  packs.  Each  took  something  to  hghten 
materially  our  gray  donkey,  and,  walking  quickly  down 
past  an  old  reindeer  grav,*  we  soon  reached  several  small 
log-houses,  near  a  brawling  snow  stream,  called  the  Lora 
Elv.     We  had  arrived  at  the  Ny  Sa3ter.f 

Near  the  Ny  Sceter  there  was  a  fenced  paddock,  and 
close  to  the  Soeter  a  sheltered  flat  of  turf,  where  we  un- 
loaded  and  pitched  our  tents.  Our  day's  journey  had 
taken  us  from  half-past  nine  o'clock  till  four  o'clock.  The 
Lordalen,  as  it  is  called,  is  now  almost  bare  of  trees,  cold, 
and  uninteresting  in  appearance  even  in  the  height  of  the 
summer  season.  The  rage  for  cutting  down  the  forests 
in  Norway  will  render  the  country  in  some  parts  ahnost 
uninhabitable.  In  Wales  the  climate  would  be  wanner, 
and  the  mountains  more  picturesque,  and  the  country 
far  more    beautiful,   if  still    clothed  with    its  ancient 

*  Reindeer  pits,  fonned  in  the  fjelds,  for  taking  reindeer. 
+  New  Boeter. 


THE  NY  S(ETER  327 

forests ;  but  Norway  can  never  be  used  for  sheep  pas- 
ture, as  the  hills  of  Wales,  on  account  of  the  climate ; 
and  the  forests  for  shelter  are  still  more  necessary  in  the 
northern  clime. 

Middagsmad  consisted  of  tea,  ham,  potatoes,  and 
pickled  walnuts.  Ourself,  Noah,  and  Zachariah  went 
fishing;  but,  not  meeting  with  any  sport,  we  soon 
returned  with  Noah.  The  peasants  at  the  Soeter  were 
very  kind,  civil  people.  They  were  all  women  and 
cmldren,  one  being  a  boy.  One  very  nice  little  girl 
hummed  very  prettily  several  Norwegian  airs  for  us. 
The  wind  blew  cold  in  the  evening.  Zachariah  came 
back  to  tea,  with  two  trout.  For  our  aftensmad  we  had 
Zachariah's  two  trout,  with  fladbrod  and  butter  from  the 
ScBter.  Esmeralda  was  very  bilious;  could  not  finish 
her  tea ;  said  she  could  not  touch  tea  again  ;  was  imwell. 
The  tea,  she  said,  was  not  good,  or  the  fladbrod.  Her 
brother  Noah  said  she  ate  too  fast,  and  so  made  herself 
unwell ;  for,  said  Noah,  the  tea  is  excellent.  Our  gipsies 
would  now  and  then  wrangle  and  chaff*,  till  a  stranger 
would  suppose  they  were  going  to  fight,  as  on  this 
evening. 

"  Now,  then,  Lucas,  don't  tell  lies.  Dawdy.  There's 
a  state  he  puts  himself  in,  the  ballo  shero ! " 

"  Dik  the  Bongy  Mouee ! "  exclaimed  another.  "  Sheep's 
eyes !  ah,  you  talk  backwards,  like  Amy,  you  do  ! " 

Then  Esmeralda  would  say  satirically,  "  Well  indeed, 
so  manly  !  Doesn't  he  put  himself  over  every  one, 
Ambrose  does." 

"  What  is  daughter  sajmig  ? "  answers  Noah.     "  Blan- 
kesko !  look  at  Ezekiel." 
"  Don't  say  so,",  shouted  Zachariah. 


328  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

"  Ask  Mr.  Smith  whether  it  is  a  lie.  Oh,  yes ;  Am- 
brose can  do  anything,  he  can." 

It  was,  however,  satisfactory  to  know  that  in  a  few 
minutes  they  did  not  trouble  themselves  about  their 
hastily  expressed  opinions  of  one  another. 

Our  gipsies  were  shortly  afterwards  singing,  ''  Gamle 
Norge,"  humming  a  tune,  or  arranging  our  things  with  a 
merry  laugh.  Poor  Mr.  Rodsheim  was  sorely  puzzled  at 
the  variety  of  names  they  seemed  to  possess  ;  but  at  last 
Noah  settled  down  into  Mr.  Ambrose,  Esmeralda  into 
Miss  Daughter,  and  Zachariah  into  Master  Zakee. 

In  the  evening,  as  the  Sceter  girl  collected  her  cows, 
there  was  something  charming  in  her  pecuUar  call.  The 
high  modulated  pitch  of  the  voice — ^tones  at  once  plain- 
tive and  persuasive,  seemed  to  lure  the  animals  to  her 
from  the  far  distance.  It  was  nine  o'clock  when  we  sang 
our  gipsy  song  for  them,  and  then  ourself,  Noah,  and 
Zachariah  sat  by  the  fire  playing  the  guitar,  violin,  and 
tambourine,  as  the  young  girls  danced  on  the  level  green 
till  ten  o'clock. 

Ole  Rodsheim  slept  in  state  that  night — ^the  English- 
man's house  was  placed  at  his  disposal  This  log-house 
appeared  to  have  been  built  for  sportsmen,  and  had  been  J 
occupied  by  English  gentlemen,  in  1869,  for  reindeer 
shooting ;  but  on  these  i^^lds,  we  were  told,  the  reindeer 
were  now  scarce,  and  the  rype  not  plentiful.* 

*  Of  the  Norwegian  winged  game,  the  "  capercailzie,''  or,  as  the  male 
bird  ifl  caUed  in  Norsk,  "  tiur,"  is,  perhaps  the  finest,  vaiying  from  nine  to 
sixteen  pounds  in  weight  They  feed  much  on  the  cranbeny,  red  whortle- 
berry, bilberry  or  bleaberry,  wild  strawberry,  raspberry,  and  on  juniper 
berries,  insects,  and  also  on  leaves  of  the  Scotch  fir  and  spruce  pine.  Then 
there  are  the  ptarmigan  of  two  kinds — the  "  Qeld  lype,"  mountain  ptanni- 
gan,  and  the"skov  rype,'*  or  wood  ptarmigan;  also  the  "hjerpe,"  hiule 
hen,  hazle  grouse — the  handsomest  of  the  grouse  species — ^the  "  aaifugl,'' 


THE  ENGLISHMAN'S  HOUSE.  329 

» 

Ole  was  stirring  in  good  time.  Eggs  for  breakfast, 
with  tea,  fladbrod,  and  butter,  from  the  Soeter,  for  which 
we  paid  two  marks,  twelve  skillings.  Ole  Eodsheim, 
who  at  first  was  scarcely  inclined  to  touch  tea,  as  he 
usually  drank  coffee,  now  seemed  getting  quite  fond  of 
it.  One  English  gentleman  to  whom  he  had  been  guide, 
seems  to  have  been  equally  fond  of  brandy.  It  was 
during  forest  travel  in  Australia  that  we  first  acquired 
the  habit  of  taking  tea  with  each  meal.  It  is  the  custom 
in  the  Bush ;  and,  as  regards  ourselves,  we  have  found  it 
sufficient  stimulus  for  every  kind  of  exposure  and  hard 
mountain  work. 

At  breakfast,  the  women  of  the  Sceter  brought  us  a  pre- 
sent of  some  milk,  and  Esmeralda  a  cake  of  best  fladbrod, 
with  clotted  cream  upon  it — very  different  hospitality 
from  our  host  at  Veblungsnoes.  It  was  excellent ;  but  we 
think  added  slightly  to  the  biliousness  of  Esmeralda. 
Then  they  brought  us  more  cake  and  clotted  cream ;  but 
we  were  obliged  to  beg  off  and  get  Ole  Eodsheim  to 
explain  that  we  had  really  had  quite  sufficient. 

The  woman  took  us  to  see  the  Englishman's  house.  It 
was  very  clean ;  but  bare  of  furniture.  The  Englishmen, 
who  were  evidently  of  lively  temperament,  appear  to  have 
stayed  there  some  time.  As  a  change  from  hard  life  in 
the  :Qelds,  a  Norwegian  musician  would  occasionally 
come,  and  the  Soeter  girls  from  the  district  assemble  for 

black  cock  or  black  grouse  ;  also  **  raphone,**  partiidges  ;  "  vagtel,"  quail ; 
and  *'  rugde,"  woodcock.  Partridges  and  quails  are  not  numerous.  We 
refer  those  who  wish  to  know  more  about  the  game  birds  of  Norway  to  a 
most  complete  and  beautifully  illustrated  work,'"  Game  Birds  and  Wild 
Fowl  of  Sweden  and  Norway,"  by  li.  Lloyd,  author  of  "  Field  Sports  of 
Northern  Europe,"  published  by  Day  &  Son,  1867.  Many  of  the  beautiful 
illustrations  of  this  work  are  by  the  celebrated  Swedish  artist,  the  late 
M.  Komer.    Several  excellent  woodcuts  are  by  Wol£ 


330  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

a  dance  on  the  level  green.  Their  names  were  recorded 
inside  the  door  of  the  Englishman's  wooden  house  as 
foUows : — 


Oline  Flikle 
Aniie  Brenyord 
Eli  Loflinsmoe 
Marit  NoTstigaatd 
Marit  Thorhola 
Marit  Brenyord 


Toraana  Norstigaaid 
Man  Thorok 
Mari  Rudi 
Marit  Stavem 
Anne  Skarpol 
Britt  Skarpol 


Giving  the  woman's  son  a  present  of  some  fishing  flies, 
which  he  wanted,  and  the  woman  a  large  tin  water-can 
which  we  managed  to  spare,  our  party  left  about  ten 
o'clock  The  first  difficulty  was  a  bridge,  but  after  much 
trouble  we  got  the  donkeys  over,  and  ascended  the 
mountain  slope  of  the  valley  through  the  few  scattered 
birch  trees  which  were  left. 

The  track  was  not  beset  with  much  difficulty,  and, 
ascending  the  high  lands  of  the  Fillingsho  Pjeld,  we  had 
the  Skardstind  and  Kjolen  Fjeldene  on  our  left,  and 
the  Jehansho  Fjeld  on  our  right.  We  were  now 
in  the  Gudbransdalen.  Traversing  wild  open  moor- 
lands, with  scarcely  any  vegetation,  we  halted  about 
two  o'clock  by  a  small  streamlet,  on  the  open  moun- 
tain. A  few  sticks  we  had  collected  on  our  way 
enabled  us  to  make  our  fire.  Tea  and  fladbrod  and 
butter  formed  our  meal.  The  fladbrod  was  not  of  the 
best  description.  Zachariah  called  it  bearskin,  but  after 
all  it  was  palatable  to  a  mountaineer,  and  we  bid  him  be 
satisfied  he  did  not  fare  worse ;  it  was  nearly  all  con- 
sumed at  this  meal,  to  Zachariah's  intense  satisfaction. 

We  were  soon  ready  for  a  start  The  animals  had 
rested  ;  the  Puru  Bawnee  did  not  seem  much  the  worse  for 
its  fall  the  day  before.  It  is  not  well  to  keep  them  en 
^oute  more  than  four  hours  without  a  rest.     The  Puru 


AUB   VAND.  331 

Eawnee's  back  was  slightly  sore,  and  we  adopted  the  plan 
of  folding  the  tent  cover  into  two  rolls,  and  placing 
one  on  each  side  its  back,  so  as  to  relieve  all  pressure. 
This  plan  answered  exceedingly  welL 

Leaving  about  four  o'clock,  we  passed  near  the  Aur 
Vand,  or,  as  it  is  marked  in  one  map,  the  Horgven  Lake. 
It  is  a  large  lake,  and  Ole  said  it  was  celebrated  £br  its 
fish.     As  we  continued  our  way  down  a  very  steep  moun- 
tain track,  descending  towards  Skeaker,  the  Lomseggen 
came  in  view,  and  snowy  hills  on  our  right.  On  one  side 
we  had  the  Bipsberg,  and  the  other  the  Loms  Horungen. 
Zachariah,  who  had  ridden  with  the  packs  on  his  donkey 
along  the  undulating  plateaux,  had  now  to  dismount. 
Each  had  to  go  to  the  donkey's  head ;  the  track  was  pre- 
cipitous on  the  side  of  a  deep  ravine. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

The  yeiy  look  of  each  of  them  denotes  strong  talent ;  while  in 
whatever  they  have  undertaken  to  perform,  they  seem  to  have  sur- 
passed others,  whilst  they  are  at  once  unabashed  and  polite.  It  is  true 
Ijiat  tbey  have  not  been  tried  in  many  things ;  but  they  are,  it  seems, 
the  best  fortune-tellers,  the  best  singers,  the  best  boxers,  and,  per- 
haps, the  best  doctors  in  the  world.  .  «  .  .  They  speak,  too,  the 
several  languages  of  each  country  with  much  greater  propriety  than 
the  lower  ranks  of  natives  themselves  do. 

The  Oipsies,    By  Samusl  Sobsbis- 

THE  feasant's  WOOD^SKEARER — OUB  FAIB  VISITOR — ^ESMERALDA^S  IK- 
DIGNATION — THE  GIPSY  HORNPIPE — THE  FATE  OP  EZEKIEL — TBEBli 
ADVOCACY — THE  RANKNY*  RACKLY — THE  OTTA  VAND. 

Noah  broke  his  alpenstock.  Descending  still  lower, 
we  saw  a  waterfall  formed  by  the  stream  from  the  lake. 
In  a  large  extent  of  wood,  on  the  other  side,  nmnbers  of 
firs,  which  had  once  formed  a  pictmresque  shelter,  had 
been  cut  down,  and  were  Ijdng  on  the  ground.  The 
owner,  a  well-to-do  farmer,  had  yielded  to  the  soUcita- 
tions  of  a  timber-merchant,  and  had  cut  down  much  of 
his  wood.  The  timber-merchant,  after  buying  and 
taking  some  of  the  best,  found  it- was  not  worth  his  while 
to  remove  the  remainder  of  the  trees,  owing  to  the  rough- 
ness of  the  stream  down  which  he  intended  to  float  them. 

*  "  Ilankny  rackly,"  pretty  girl ;  Bometimes  pronounced  "rinkenno'*  and 
"  rankno,"  pretty.    In  the  Italian  gipsy,  it  is  pronounced  "  rincano,"  bello. 


8KEAKER.  333 

The  timber  was  therefore  lying  as  we  saw  it,  probably  to 
be  used  as  firewood. 

By  a  short  cut  we  descended  down  a  very  steep  bank, 
with  our  animals  and  baggage,  to  the  level  road  to 
Skeaker.  The  road  was  an  extremely  narrow  lane,  with 
a  wooden  fence  on  both  sides  ;  fields  of  grain  were  im- 
proved in  luxuriance  by  irrigation.  At  one  place  we  saw 
a  peasant  throwing  water  over  his  grain  with  a  wooden 
shovel  The  peasants  seemed  well-to-do.  [The  farms 
on  each  side  the  road  were  numerous,  but  small  in 
size. 

Then  we  had  the  usual  rush  to  see  the  donkeys,  and 
an  occasional  meeting  in  the  narrow  lane  with  ponies, 
who  obstinately  refused  to  fi^temise  with  our  cavalcade. 
At  last,  after  passing  a  large  well-built  wooden  house, 
with  a  stufied  owl  on  the  summer-house  of  its  garden, 
we  crossed  a  bridge  over  the  Otta  Elv. 

Our  camp  was  selected  on  a  large  open  common,  under 
the  shelter  of  a  wooden  fence,  not  very  far  firom  the  road. 
Ole  went  to  a  farm-house  for  provisions,  and  to  say  we 
had  camped  there.  The  tents  were  soon  pitched,  a  fire 
lighted,  and  we  had  tea  and  eggs  in  our  tents.  The 
gipsies  were  very  lively;  the  day^s  exertions  had  quite 
cured  Esmeralda, 

Nmnbers  of  peasants  came  in  groups  toward  the  camp. 
One  man,  dressed  in  black  with  a  slouched  hat,  was  the 
most  solemn-looking  individual  we  ever  saw.  The  gipsies 
called  him  Uncle  Elijah ;  another  was  styled  EzekieL 
Ole  said  there  were  some  peasants  who  did  not  like  music 
or  dancing. 

The  numbers  increased,  and  they  thronged  round  with 
eager  curiosity.     We  were  thankful  that  Ole  was  now 


334  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

showman ;  no  doubt,  with  much  ingenuity,  Ole  made 
many  difficult  explanations.  Our  guide  was  quite  equal 
to  the  task. 

The  donkeys  were  ever  surrounded  by  anxious  visitors. 
One  very  pretty  girl  came  up,  as  we  were  standing  at  the 
tent  entrance  ;  speaking  English  with  a  strong  American 
accent,  she  said,  "  And  where  do  you  live  ?  " 

Our  answer  that  we  occasionally  resided  in  London, 
seemed  a  sufficient  address,  for  she  continued,  "  Are  you 
married  ?  '* 

"  Oh,  no,"  said  we,  with  a  tone  of  much  melancholy. 

Then  she  told  us  she  had  been  in  America  and  Eng- 
land ;  that  she  liked  England  better  than  Norway.  She 
said  she  wanted  to  get  married,  and  stayed  in  Norway  to 
be  with  her  mother.  Her  brother  had  sold  the  large 
house  and  farm,  on  the  other  side  the  river,  to  the 
government  for  6,300  dollars.  For  some  time  we  con- 
versed together. 

After  the  pretty  Norwegian  had  left.,  we  went  to  sit  in 
our  tent.  As  we  entered,  Esmeralda  drew  herself  up 
with  much  dignity.  A  storm  was  coming — indications 
of  the  hurricane  appeai*ed  on  the  surface  of  her  dark 
flashing  eyes. 

"  The  Rye  had  better  have  his  Norwegian  Hackly  at 
once !  She'll  keep  your  tents  for  you  1  Didn't  you  hear 
how  they  rocker'd  together,  Noah  ?" 

"  Well,"  said  Noah,  in  secret  enjoyment  of  his  sister's 
indignation,  "  the  Rye  did  say  something  about  marriage, 
when  she  axed  him." 

"Won't  she  see  after  the  Rye's  things?"  exclaimed 
Esmeralda,  more  and  more  indignant 

"  Dawdy  !  dawdy  1 "   said  Zachariah,  in  his  blandest 


ESMERALDA'S  INDIGNATION,  335 

accents,  as  he  sat  on  the  ground,  and  quietly  rubbed  his 
hands,  swaying  to  and  fro,  whilst  his  dark  eyes  sparkled 
with  malicious  fire.  "  Dawdy !  dawdy !  but  the  Rye 
can  tice  it  on  with  the  girls,  can't  you,  sir  1 " 

"  Tice  it  on,*'  answered  Esmeralda ;  "  I'm  not  to  be 
deceived.     Noah,  let's  be  a  gellin." 

There  was  an  expressive  tinge  of  indignant  melan- 
choly  as  Esmeralda  said  this.  0\ir  position  was  liko 
the  mariner  in  a  heavy  sea.  After  all,  we  really 
had  no  desire  to  change  our  hobbenengree,  Esmeralda, 
who  had  tmvelled  with  us  so  many  miles,  and  shared 
with  us  so  many  fatigues.  Why  should  we  change  ?  Why 
should  not  Noah  ask  the  pretty  Norwegian  girl  in  mar- 
riage ?  Indeed,  we  at  once  undertook  to  carry  out  the 
delicate  mission.  The  question  should  be  asked  when 
she  came.     Noah  was  not  unwilling. 

Notwithstanding  Esmeralda  said,  "  Dawdy  1  There's 
a  scheme  of  the  Rye's,"  she  was  evidently  more  at  ease, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  we  were  playing  some  of  our  gipsy 
and  other  tunes,  nor  did  we  forget  the  "  gipsy  hornpipe," 
the  favourite  air  of  our  gipsies'  ancient  grandmother,  who 
had  recently  died  at  some  incredible  age,  after  giving 
to  the  world  seventeen  children. 

The  number  of  our  visitors  increased.  Seated  in  our 
tents,  we  played  a  variety  of  airs.  Some  few  danced  on 
the  greensward  near ;  many  tried  to  get  a  view  of  us  by 
looking  over  the  baulk  between  our  tents,  Ole  was  the 
centre  of  many  a  circle,  as  the  peasants  grouped  round 
him,  asking  him  all  sorts  of  questions. 

At  length  the  push  and  pressure  was  so  great  our  tents 
were  in  danger  of  being  levelled  with  the  ground.  In  vain 
Esmeralda  became  impatient  and  remonstrated,  still  the 


336  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

peasants,  anxious  to  see  us,  crowded  against  the  tents  and 
baulk. 

Well  we  remember  the  tall  active  form  of  the  gipsy 
girl,  rising  suddenly  from  the  ground.  Never  shaU  we 
forget  the  amazon  of  our  tents,  the  wild  spirit  of  our 
many  wanderings,  seizing  Noah's  broken  alpenstock.  We 
were  reminded  of 

*^  Charge,  Chester,  charge  !    On,  Stanley,  on  t 
Were  the  last  words  of  Marmion  ! " 

as  she  went  forth.  There  was  a  sudden  withdrawal  of 
pressure  from  our  tents ;  there  was  a  tramp  of  feet,  a 
hurried  stampede  of  short  duration.  Whether  Uncle 
Elijah  was  knocked  down,  or  what  became  of  Ezekiel,  we 
never  knew.  We  did  not  go  out  to  pick  up  the  wounded. 
Probably  their  bodies,  like  that  of  Bang  James  IV.  at  the 
battle  of  Flodden,  were  never  discovered.  They  did  not 
appear  the  next  morning.  We  mourned  them  as  amongst 
the  slain.  Flushed  and  heated  from  the  fray,  Esmeralda 
soon  returned.  Our  music  continued  till  closing  eve 
warned  us  it  was  time  for  rest.  The  peasants  wished  us 
good-night,  and  departed. 

Yet  once  more  before  they  all  departed  we  held  con- 
verse with  the  very  pretty  girl  of  Skeaker.  Esmeralda 
had  the  satisfaction  of  hearing  us  propose  for  NoaL  Our 
visitor  did  not  appear  altogether  adverse,  but  we  fear  our 
advocacy  was  feeble,  for  nothing  ultimately  came  of  it, 
and  we  retired  to  rest. 

We  mused  lightly  upon  the  novelty  and  charm  of  our 
wild  wandering  life  as  we  rose  at  six  o'clock.  Ole  Rods- 
heim  procured  us  eggs  for  breakfast.  Fire  was  lighted ; 
Zachariah  tried  the  river  for  fish.  In  vain  we  sought  a 
spot  sufficiently  private  for  matutinal  ablutions  ;  the  river 


THE  RANKNY  RACKLY.  337 

banks  were  almost  level  with  the  water's  edge ;  our  camp 
was  almost  on  an  island.  We  afterwards  retired  beneath 
the  arch  of  the  second  bridge,  where  we  had  all  the 
seclusion  of  a  private  boudoir. 

As  we  appeared  on  the  bridge,  refreshed  and  braced  up 
for  the  da/s  exertion,  to  our  surprise  we  again  met  the 
pretty  girl  of  Skeaker.  She  had  a  young  companion  with 
her.  Her  American  accent  seemed  now  to  give  us  plea- 
sure, and  then  she  spoke  English  very  well  As  we 
exchanged  greetings  chance  caused  us  to  look  towards 
the  river ;  the  tall  slim  form  of  our  hobbenengree  (gip. 
housekeeper)  was  standing  by  the  water's  edge,  looking 
towards  us.  Her  dark  flashing  eyes  followed  every 
movement. 

As  we  slowly  returned  to  the  tents  we  expected 
another  storm,  but  Esmeralda  waited  till  she  was 
gone.  *'I  saw  it  all,"  said  Esmeralda,  somewhat  re- 
proachfully. "  How  artfully  the  Rackly  waited  till 
you  were  on  the  bridge;  but  never  mind,  you  can 
take  her." 

It  was  difficult  to  convince  her  that  Noah's  suit  re- 
quired several  interviews  and  much  pressing  solicita- 
tion. 

Our  camp  ground  was  delightful ;  several  visitors 
came  to  our  camp.  Noah  was  loading  the  donkeys  for 
our  departure.  Then  we  soon  perceived  our  pretty 
Norwegian  friend  who  spoke  English;  she  had  one  or 
two  young  ladies  with  her. 

Whilst  Ole  Rodsheim  gave  Noah  some  assistance,   I 
proposed  to  give  our  visitors  a  few  parting  tunes ;  in 
fact,  they  were  anxious  to  hear  us  play  once  more. 
Esmeralda  looked    in  no  lively  mood  towards   her 


338  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

supposed  rival.  She  would  not  play  for  the  gorgios. 
Taking  our  guitar,  we  sat  down,  and,  accompanied  by 
Zachariah  on  his  violin,  we  gave  them  some  farewell 
music. 

All  is  ready.  The  morning  is  beautiful.  About  ten 
o'clock  the  word  was  given  to  start.  Ole  formed  our 
advance  guard,  and  led  the  way,  staflf  in  hand,  some 
distance  a-head.-  By  some  shuffle  in  the  cards  of  fate, 
Esmeralda  was  in  the  rear  guard  as  we  bowed  farewell  to 
our  friendly  visitors,  and  especially  to  the  long-to-be- 
remembered  pretty  girl  of  Skeaker. 

Our  party  quietly  followed  the  narrow  road  along  the 
right  shore  of  the  beautiful  "  Otta  Vand."  The  road  was 
very  narrow,  and  fenced  in.  Comfortable  homesteads  of 
the  peasant  farmers  were  delightfully  placed  between  the 
road  and  the  lake.  We  remarked  their  substantial,  and 
well-to-do  appearance.  This  seemed  one  of  the  most 
fertile  districts  we  had  yet  traversed. 

Crossing  the  "Sand  Aa"  (Nor.  sandy  rivulet)  we 
gradually  approached  Lom,  which  is  about  six  or  seven 
English  miles  from  Skeaker.  Some  of  the  farm  houses 
buUt  on  promontories,  stretching  from  the  shores  of  the 
lake,  have  names  terminating  in  "  uses  "  (Nor.  point),  as 
for  instance,  Studnses  (rough  point),  and  many  others. 
At  a  farm  called  Sundtna^s,  we  bought  twenty-five  eggs 
for  one  mark  five  skillings.  Our  expenses  at  Skeaker, 
including  butter,  eighteen  eggs,  and  fladbrod,  amounted 
to  three  marks. 

On  our  way  from  Skeaker,  Esmeralda  soon  recovered 
her  wonted  spirits,  and  said  quietly,  she  hoped  we 
would  not  think  anything  of  what  she  had  said;  she 
did  not  mean  it ;  was  it  likely  we  should  have  anyone 


THE  OTTA   VAND.  339 


else  to  look  after  our  things.  It  is  wonderful  how 
soon  -the  heart  inclines  itself  to  forgive;  yet  in  after 
days  TLOw,  and  by  chance,  a  quiet  allusion  to  the  pretty 
girl  of  Skeaker  produced  its  effect  on  our  suspicious 
liobbeneiifiTee. 


z  2 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Tour  pulaes  are  quickened  to  gipsy  pitch ;  you  are  readj  to  nuke 
love  and  war,  to  heal  and  slay,  to  wander  to  the  world's  end,  to  be 
outlawed  and  hunted  down,  to  dare  and  do  any  thing  for  the  sake  of 
the  sweet,  untramelled  life  of  the  tent,  the  bright  blue  sky,  the 
mountain  air,  the  free  savagedom,  the  joyous  dance,  the  passionate 
friendship,  the  fieiy  love. 

Matilda  Bsthax  Edwards's  Through  SfoiJi. 

THE  WASPS*  NB8T — LOM — KIND  FRIENDS — SONGS  OP  BJORNSEN— THE 
PR(E8TEN'S  ministration  —  THE  REPULSED  STUDENT  —  BEAUTUTL 
VALLEY — THE  TWO  ARTISTS — THE  BiEVER  ELYEN — RODSHEIM — THE 
RAVINE  —  THE  LOST  STARDY  —  ASCENT  OP  GALDHOPIGGBN  —  THE 
HIGHEST  MOUNTAIN  IN  NORWAY — THE  NIGHT  ASCENT — THE  DOME  OF 
BNOW — THE  SUNRISE. 

Zachartah,  the  Mephistopheles  of  our  party,  desiring 
probably  to  afford  more  varied  incident  for  our  "  impres- 
sions de  voyage ''  declared  war  upon  a  wasps'  nest 

Although  warned,  but  too  late,  he  took  a  hasty  shot 
with  a  stone  at  the  nest,  artistically  constructed,  on  a 
bough,  hanging  on  the  road  side. 

What  business  had  we  to  quarrel  with  these  paper 
makers,  who  knew  their  art  long  before  man  had  emerged 
from  his  pre-historic  condition  ?  why  needlessly  destroy 
their  curious  homestead  ?  but  the  stone  had  gone  upon  its 
mission. 

Zachariah  soon  became  acquainted  with  the  "lex 
talionis"  of  the  invaded  colony  ;  strange  to  say,  the  wasps 


LOM.  341 

directed  their  attack  only  on  himself.  He  was  singled  out 
as  the  aggressor,  and  a  sharp  sudden  sting,  under  one  eye, 
entirely  ruined  his  personal  appearance  for  the  morning. 

We  arrived  at  Lorn  about  mid-day.  Ole  went  in 
advance  to  see  the  Proesten  Hailing.  As  we  approached 
a  large  open  expanse  of  meadow  land,  open  to  the  junc- 
tion of  roads,  from  Skeaker,  Vaage  and  Rodsheim  we  saw 
the  church,  which  picturesquely  stands  near  the  lake.* 
Near  it,  the  charming  manse  of  the  Proesten  Hailing.  A 
large  wooden  structure  near  the  road,  we  were  told,  had 
been  used  formerly  as  a  granary  to  store  the  grain,  paid 
as  tithe,  to  the  clergyman  of  the  parish.  This  payment 
is  now,  we  believe,  made  in  money.  As  we  looked  upon 
the  church  and  parsonage,  surrounded  as  they  were,  by 
the  meadow  park,  with  the  broad  silver  lake  near,  the 
rising  mountains  on  all  sides,  and  the.  clear  blue  sky 
above,  our  senses  *  seemed  entranced  with  the  passing 
beauty  of  the  scene ;  it  was  one  of  those  chance  glimpses 
of  perfect  nature,  which  cast  their  anchor  deep  in  memory, 
and  leave  a  lasting  impression  of  bygone  days. 

That  the  Proesten  was  in  harmony  with  so  much  that 
was  pleasing,  we  did  not  doubt,  and  when  he  came  to 
meet  us  accompanied  by  our  guide,  he  warmly  welcomed 
our  gipsy  party ;  he  would  have  us  enter  beneath  his 
roof,  and  accept  his  kindly  hospitality ;  we  did  not  value 
the  proffered  hospitality  the  less,  though  we  did  not 
accept  it.     Ours  was  a  life  of  travel  in  the  fresh,  air  of 

*  The  following  description  is  given  of  Lom  Church  in  "  Wild  Life  in 
the  Fjelds  of  Norway,"  by  Francis  M.  Wyndham,  published  by  Longmans, 
1861 :— *»The  church  is  a  very  picturesque  building,  made. entirely  of  wood, 
even  to  the  roof,  which  is  composed  of  small  pieces  of  wood,  shaped  and 
laid  on  like  tiles.  A  beautiful  tapering  spire  rises  from  the  centre  of  the 
building,  and  forms  no  insignificant  object  in  the  view  of  Lom,"  ^ 


342  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

heaven ;  air  that  myriads  are  dying  for  every  day.  It  is 
as  essential  to  man  as  water  is  to  fish.  The  delightful 
shade  of  some  trees  near  the  road,  a  short  distance  firom 
the  parsonage,  tempted  us  ;  there  we  halted,  and  there, 
reluctantly,  the  Proesten  allowed  us  to  remain.  After 
strolling  with  him  for  a  short  time  along  the  pleasant 
walks  of  his  grounds,  he  left  us  to  take  our  mid-day  meal ; 
we  enjoyed  it  in  our  own  gipsy  fashion ;  our  meal  con- 
sisted of  fried  bacon,  fladbrod  and  tea.  Ole  obtained  our 
letters  and  newspapers  from  the  Loms  Postaabneri.  We 
had  telegraphed  our  correspondence  from  Kongsberg; 
the  packet  was  large,  and  cost  us  three  dollars  and  forty- 
four  skillings.  Our  newspapers  which  had  been  sent  to 
Bergen,  we  left  to  their  fate ;  the  "  Illustrated  London 
News "  seemed  to  please  the  Proesten  HaUing,  and  his 
family.  Whfen  our  mid-day  meal  was  concluded,  Proesten 
Hailing,  Mrs.  Hailing,  three  young  ladies,  her  sisters,  a 
brother,  and  two  gentlemen  staying  with  Mr.  Hailing, 
came  to  see  us ;  They  were  much  interested  with  our 
gipsies ;  Zachariah's  swollen  face  had  unfortunately  marred 
his  beauty,  Noah  had  xmfortunately  taken  some  offence 
at  his  sister  Esmeralda.  Noah's  temper  was  to  blame ; 
occasionally  an  interchange  of  Romany  and  English 
terms  flashed  between  them. 

We  had  wished  our  gipsies  to  appear  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage. One  with  a  swollen  eye  and  two  at  cross 
purposes  had  a  jarring  effect  on  our  nervous  system, 
nevertheless,  our  visitors  seemed  interested  with  them. 
We  trust  they  made  allowance  for  the  wildness  of  their 
nature.  We  can  assure  them,  Zachariah  had  not  always 
a  swoUen  eye,  and  Noah  was  rarely  out  of  temper; 
even   our  hobbenengree   had   her  moments   of  sudden 


THE  PBCESTEira  MINISTRATION.  343 

sunshine,  delightful  after  previous  storms,  and  the 
fitful  passions  of  her  gipsy  soul.  All  was  harmony 
after  we  had  commenced  our  music — guitar,  violin,  and 
tambourine.  We  sang  for  our  visitors  the  gipsy  song, 
and  gave  the  Proesten  Hailing  a  copy  of  it,  as  a  parting 
Bouvenir;  the  ladies,  and  some  of  the  gentlemen,  sang 
several  Norwegian  melodies  for  us.  They  had  good 
voices ;  *'  over  the  high  i^eld  "  was  a  beautiful  song,  and 
seemed  appropriate  to  our  parting.  Some  charming  Nor- 
wegian  ^Vare  written  by  Bj»m«n.  Very  plelntly 
passed  our  mid-day  halt,  with  the  Proesten  Hailing  and  his 
Lay.  Wide  Bpid,  we  .fl^ard,  found,  wa.  L  W 
of  the  Proesten  Hailing*  for  his  kindly  heart,  his  true 
christian  feeUng.  and  invariable  hospitaUty  to  travellers. 
Speaking  English  perfectly,  we  were  tbld  he  had  oflBicially, 
much  and  active  ministration,  among  the  English  navvies 
employed,  during  the  construction  of  the  Railway  from 
Christiania. 

Our  donkeys  were  again  loaded.  The  Puru  Rawnee 
had  a  chafed  back,  but  by  careful  folding  of  our  tent- 
cover,  we  prevented  pressure  upon  it ;  sore  backs  are 
always  difficult  to  prevent  in  crossing  a  mountainous 
country.  We  had  reached  Lom  about  twelve  o'clock,  and 
left  about  four.  Our  gipsies  were  ready ;  we  bade  all 
farewell,  perhaps  never  to  meet  again,  but  not  the  less  to 
be  held  in  our  pleasing  remembrance. 

The  evening  was  very  warm;  indeed,  as  we  slowly 
followed  the  road  up  the  "  Boeverdal  Elv,"  we  found  it 
exceedingly  hot.  It  is  about  nine  miles  distance  from 
Lom  to  Rodsheim;    comfortable  homesteads  met  our 

*  In  a  recent  guide  book  we  notice  that  Prcesten  Hallen  is  now  entitled 
Provsten  HaUen. 


344  TENT  LIFE  IX  NORWAY, 

view  as  we  passed  along.  The  usual  excitement  to  see  our 
donkeys  was  here  and  there  met  with.  It  is  said  there 
are  four  hundred  farms  in  the  parish  of  Lorn,  and  every 
tenth  man  had  lately  emigrated,  but  no  inconvenience 
had  been  felt  by  the  diminution  of  population. 

Not  far  along  the  road,  we  met  a  young  Norwegian 
student  en  route  towards  Lom.  Ole  conversed  with  him. 
He  was  dressed  in  light  tourist  costume,  and  high  lace-up 
boots,  and  had  attempted  alone  the  ascent  of  the  Graldho- 
piggen.  The  student  had  failed,  and  was  returning  with 
all  the  weight  of  disappointed  ambition  upon  his  mind. 
Ole  had  predicted  the  failure.  Well  we  remembered  our 
similar  fate  in  former  years,  when  we  ourselves,  and 
several  fellow-tourists,  headed  by  the  celebrated  mo\m- 
taineer,  poor  Hudson,  returned  from  an  attempted  ascent 
of  Mont  Blanc.  Tired,  wayworn,  torn,  and  jaded,  and, 
worse,  disappointed,  we  reached  the  picturesque  Hotel 
Mont  Joli  at  Saint  Gervais  only  to  try  again  with  better 
success. 

Ole,  anxious  to  reach  Kodsheim  as  soon  as  possible, 
went  on  in  advance.  We  saw  him  again,  when  he  had 
reached  his  father's  farm  near  the  road  side.  Ole  and  his 
father  were  just  going  to  start  for  Rodsheim  in  a  stolk- 
joerre.  His  services  were  unnecessary  as  guide  to  Rod- 
sheim. It  was  useless  for  Ole  to  remain  with  us.  They 
wished  us  much  to  go  with  them  in  the  stolkjoerre,  and 
leave  our  gipsies  and  donkeys  to  foUow  after. 

Ole's  father  was  a  fine,  hale,  strong  old  man,  and  his 
wife  a  comely  stout  woman.  We  preferred  to  remain 
with  our  gipsies  and  baggage,  feeling  a  sort  of  independ- 
ence of  all  kinds  of  lifts.  Possessing  good  health  and 
spirits,    we    felt    no  fatigue  from   our  daily  exertion. 


THE  TWO  ARTISTS.  345 

Exposure  to  the  fresh  air  seemed  to  give  us  an  endur- 
ing strength  quite  beyond  the  requirement  of  stimulant 
or  the  necessity  for  artificial  locomotion. 

It  was  now  determined  to  push  on  after  Ole  Rodsheim 
as  rapidly  as  we  could,  Zachariah  was  mounted  on  the 
top  of  the  baggage  on  the  Puro  Rye.  Noah  took  the  lead 
on  foot  in  care  of  the  Puru  Rawnee  and  Puro  Rye. 
Esmeralda,  who  was  tired^  we  mounted  on  the  baggage  of 
ber  Merle^  the  Tarno  Rye,  and  brought  up  the  rear.  The 
road  was  tolerably  level  and  we  proceeded  along  at  a 
sharp  pace.  Every  turn  of  the  valley  brought  us  in  view 
of  fresh  scenes  to  admire. 

Passing  a  wicket  on  the  road  side,  we  caught  sight  of 
two  young  artists  in  the  garden  of  a  small  cottage.  Their 
canvas  was  upon  an  easel.  One  was  then  painting  a 
scene  from  nature.  They  were  apparently  taking  a  bend 
of  the  valley  down  which  the  glacier-coloured  waters  of 
Boever  Elv*  dashed  its  wild  course.  The  maisonette 
was  so  homely,  the  point  of  view  so  picturesque,  we 
could  not  help  pausing.  Quickly  callicg  a  halt  we  ex- 
changed salutations  with  them.  They  were  both  very 
good  looking  young  fellows.  The  one,  we  were  informed 
afterwards,  was  considered  the  handsomest  man  'in  Nor- 
way. He  was  certainly  exceedingly  handsome,  though 
a  trifle  too  effeminate  for  a  man  ;  yet  there  was  much  to 
admire  in  the  form  and  expression  of  the  countenance. 
They  accepted  an  offer  of  some  aquavit  to  drink  **  gamle 
norge."  Our  flask  was  brought  into  requisition.  Some- 
how the  brandy  seemed  rather  muddy,  both  in  flask  and 
bottle  newly  opened.  Noah  accounted  for  it  by  saying 
that  when  the  old  man  at  Veblungsnoes  sold  it  to  him,  the 

*  Beaver  stream. 


346  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

brandy  was  nearly  out  of  the  cask,  which  had  to  he  lifted 
up,  before  he  could  £01  the  bottles.  A  passing  suspicion 
crossed  our  mind  that  it  may  have  been  caused  by  the 
addition  of  water,  but  still  we  did  not  like  to  suspect  any 
one  of  our  party.  Be  that  as  it  may,  the  artists  both 
quaflFed  oflf  a  small  tumbler  each  without  even  winking 
their  eyea  With  a  hasty  farewell,  we  continued  our 
road,  pushing  on  at  a  rapid  pace. 

As  evening  fell,  and  we  gradually  lost  the  heat  of 
the  sun,  there  was  a  refreshing  coolness  in  Boeverdalen. 
On  our  right  the  lofty  heights  of  the  Lomseggen  Fjeld, 
extending  from  Lom,  rose  above  us ;  on  our  left  the 
Boever  Elv  was  ever  near  the  road, — ^at  times  wide, 
broad,  and  broken  into  many  rough  and  shallow  rapids. 
Our  party  was  not  out  of  place  in  such  picturesque 
scenes.  The  two  leading  merles,  loaded  with  various 
baggage,  tent  raniers,  and  camp  appliances,  including 
Zachariah,  the  Mephistopheles  of  our  party,  mounted  on 
one,  were  followed  by  the  tall,  lank,  muscular  form  of 
Noah.  He  combined  the  appearance  of  the  smuggler, 
brigand,  the  chamois  hunter,  and  gipsy.  Noah  was  the 
beau  ideal  of  the  "  genus  homo,"  as  we  see  them  depicted 
according  to  the  conventional  rules  of  art.  At  a  short  dis- 
tance behind,  as  a  sort  of  rear  guard,  Esmeralda  was 
mounted  on  the  miscellaneous  baggage  of  the  Tamo  Rye, 
with  ourselves  near.  How  lively  and  happy  the  hob- 
benengree  seemed !  Bronzed  by  exposure  to  the  hot 
Norwegian  suns,  hardened  by  rough  spare  diet  and  con- 
tinued travel  through  all  weathers,  ours  was  indeed  a  life 
of  health,  freedom,  and  pleasure. 

About  eight  o'clock  we  came  in  sight  of  Bodsheim.    It 
is    a    substantial    wooden  house,  with   capacious  out- 


RODSHEIM.  347 

buildings,  near  an  excellent  mountain  road.  The  house 
stands  at  the  foot  of  a  rocky  hill  at  the  head  of  an  ascent 
where  the  valley  becomes  narrow.  On  the  other  side  the 
road,  close  to  the  house,  the  Boever  Elv  dashes  through 
a  deep  cleft  of  narrow  gorge  in  the  rocks.  There  is  no 
fishing  in  the  glacier  water  of  the  river.  The  house  at 
Eddsbeim  was  very  clean  and  well  Ventilated.  Ole  well 
knew  the  English  penchant.  especiaUy  of  the  mountain 
tourist.  The  comfortable  guest  chamber  of  his  house 
had  always  its  open  window,  with  pleasant  view  down 
the  valley. 

Ole  Rodsheim*  was  ready  to  receive  us.     He  pointed 
out  a  convenient  camping  ground  a  short  distance  beyond 
the  house,  just  below  the  road,  close  upon  the  edge  of  the 
precipice  of  the  ravine*     It  suited  us  exactly.     Ole  knew 
it     He  had  not  been  camping  with  us  some  days  with- 
out  knowing  the  foibles  of  our  heart. 
"  There's  the  spot  for  the  Herre." 
Ole    was    quite   right ;    and  the    roaring  waters   of 
Boeverdal  Elv  in  the  stillness  of  that  night  hushed  our 
party  to  sleep.     Our  tents  were  quickly  pitched  by  our 
gipsies.     The  pige  from  the  house  brought  us  firewood. 
We  had  eggs,  bread  and  butter,  and  tea,  for  our  evening's 
meaL     Ole  Bodsheim  brought  out  a  bottle  of  his  home- 
brewed beer.     We  had  one  glass  each,  for  we  shared 
everything  with  our  party.     It  was  exceEent  beer.  Then 

♦  Our  guide,  Ole,  was  commonly  called  "  Ole  Rttdsheim,"  from  the  name 
of  his  farm  and  station ;  bat  lus  right  name  is  Ole  Halvorsen.  Ole  is 
spoken  of  in  Mr.  Bennett's  Guide  Book  as  a  thoroughly  honest,  trustworthy 
man.  The  author  of  "How  to  See  Norway**  says — "Ole  Eodsheim  of 
Bod&heim  is  a  justly  celebrated  guide."  The  author  of  "  Wild  Life  in  the 
Fjelds  of  Norway/'  speaking  of  the  station  of  Rodsheim,  says  : — "  For- 
tunately, however,  in  compensation  for  the  delay,  the  station  was  very  clean 
and  comfortable,  and  a  Ixmdfide  bed  was  not  unwelcome. 


348  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY., 

we  went  to  the  house,  and  made  acquaintance  with  Mrs. 
Rodsheim,  a  quiet,  pale,  industrious  helpmate-  She 
appeared  an  excellent  housewife.  After  a  chat  with  Ole, 
we  returned  to  our  camp.  Our  music  enlivened  the  qiiiet 
valley  before  we  retired  to  rest. 

Mephistopheles  was  in  sad  tribulation.  May  it  be 
recorded,  that  the  evening  before>  the  hat  from  Christy  s 
of  London,  purchased  in  Norway,  which  had  cost  us  one 
dollar,  was  blown  into  the  ravine,  and  had  disappeared. 
It  was  an  occurrence  which  could  not  long  be  concealed. 
The  hat  must  be  produced  some  time,  or  accounted  for. 
We  certainly  were  annoyed  when  he  confessed  the  fact 
Something  was  said  about  the  owner  going  to  Christiania 
without  one.  Ultimately  the  Rye  relented.  Ole  Rod- 
sheim lent  Zachariah  a  cloth  military-looking  cap,  which 
was  afterwards  purchased  second-hand  for  less  than  half 
the  price  of  the  hat  lost. 

Sunday  morning  at  Rodsheim.  We  were  up  in  good 
time.  How  we  enjoyed  our  breakfast  in  the  rocks  at  the 
edge  of  the  deep  ravine.  The  day  was  very  hot.  It  was 
the  last  day  of  July.  Most  of  the  peasants  would  be 
actively  engaged  next  month  in  their  harvests.  Ole  came 
occasionally  to  see  that  we  had  everything  we  wished. 
Once  Ole  said,  in  a  melancholy  tone,  he  wished  to  speak 
with  me  aside.  We  went  with  him  away  from  the  tents, 
and  he  placed  in  our  hands  a  blacked-edged  letter,  saying 
it  might  contain  bad  news,  and  we  might  wish  to  be 
alone  when  we  received  it.  Fortunately,  the  emblem 
of  mourning  referred  to  past  events  already  known. 
Yet  we  did  not  think  the  less  of  Ole  s  kind  thought. 
Some  peasants  came  to  see  our  camp  and  the  donkeys. 
All  was  quietude  and  peace  at  Rodsheim. 


ASCENT  OF  GALDBOFIQGEN.  349 

One  of  the  points  to  be  attained  in  our  line  of  travel, 
was  the  ascent  of  the  highest  mountain  in  Norway,  the 
Galdhopiggen,  or  pike  of  Galdho.  Who  Galdho  was  we 
could  not  ascertain.*  Although  we  were  unsuccessful  in 
obtaining  the  origin  of  the  name,  we  determined,  if  pos- 
sible, to  make  the  ascent  of  this  mountain. 

It  was  arranged  that  we  should  start  at  nine  o'clock  at 
night,  Ole,  ourself,  and  Noah,  for  the  expedition.  Esme- 
ralda and  Zachariah  to  be  left  in  care  of  the  tents. 

At  mid-day  we  had  ham,  eggs,  and  potatoes  for  dinner, 
close  to  our  camp.  On  the  edge  of  the  ravine  stood  a  small 
log-hut  used  as  a  blacksmith's  shop.  Since  our  kettle 
prop  had  been  lost,  we  had  substituted  two  Alpine  stocks 
with  a  wire  between  them  for  boiling  our  water  for  tea. 
It  was  a  clumsy  substitute,  which  necessity  imposed  upon 
us.  Ole  now  arranged  that  a  blacksmith  should  make 
us  another  prop  before  we  left  Kodsheim. 

At  nine  o'clock  Ole  was  ready,  and  ourself  and  Noah 
were  each  armed  with  an  Alpine  stock.  Each  took  a 
small  supply  of  bread  and  goat's  cheese.  Making  our  adieu 
to  Esmeralda  and  Zachariah,  we  were  soon  en  route  up 
the  valley. 

We  had  not  proceeded  far  when  a  farm  servant  from 
Rodsheim  overtook  us,  and  said  that  two  English  gentle- 
men required  Ole's  presence  as  guide.  They  were  certainly 
unfortunate;  the  expedition  had  commenced,  and  Ole 
sent  back  a  message  of  excuse. 

Ole  soon  afterwards  left  the  main  road.  Entering  a 
thick  wood  to  our  left  in  Indian  file,  we  ascended  a  steep 
Ending  foot  path,  until  an  open  plateau  was  reached. 
Very  shortly  afterwards    we   reached    the    "Kodberg 

*  The  mountain  is  said  to  be  named  after  a  fann  at  its  base. — "  How  to 
See  Norway,"  p.  48. 


350  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

Soeter.''  Ole  knocked  at  the  door,  and  obtained  a  rope 
from  the  woman.  It  was  exactly  half-past  ten  o'clock. 
Walking  over  some  undulating  turf  ground  we  soon 
afterwards  commenced  another  steep  ascent.  The  slope 
was  covered  with  loose  stones,  scattered  on  all  sides.  It 
was  quite  dusk,  and  deliciously  cool  after  the  heat  of  the 
day.  At  half-past  eleven  Ole  called  a  halt,  and  we  had 
a  slight  repast  of  bread  and  cheese  and  cold  tea. 

Again  we  were  en  routes  still  walking  in  Indian  file, 
and  soon  reached  another  long  narrow  plateau.  Over 
loose  rocks,  in  the  dim  light,  we  picked  our  way  as  we 
could  for  some  distance.  The  Dogurdsmaals  Kampen,  a 
steep  sharp  mountain,  rose  above  us.  We  at  length 
skirted  the  glacier  lake  of  the  Gjuvbroeen.  In  this  lake 
we  were  told  by  Ole,  the  Herre  Watson,  the  tourist  of 
tourists,  once  bathed.  Ole  evidently  considered  our 
countryman  one  of  the  best  mountaineers  he  had  seen. 
It  must  have  been  a  cold  plunge  ;  but  what  is  there  that 
an  Englishman  will  not  undertake  ?  If  we  had  passed  it 
at  mid-day  the  example  may  have  been  followed. 

The  long  reach  of  stones,  whose  angular  points  made 
it  necessary  to  keep  a  sharp  look-out  at  every  step,  were 
at  last  exchanged  for  a  gentle  slope  of  tolerably  hard  level 
snow.  It  was  a  great  relief,  after  the  rough  pathway  of 
stones  just  left.  A  false  step  on  such  an  irregular  cause- 
way involves  a  broken  leg,  a  grazed  shin,  or  at  least  a 
sprained  ankle. 

At  last  we  reached  the  edge  of  a  broad  but  at  this 
point  tolerably  level  glacier,  across  which  we  could  in  the 
dimness  of  the  night  see  the  dome  of  the  Galdhopiggen 
rising  beyond.  Its  summit,  a  dome  of  hard  frozen  snow, 
rests  against  a  precipice  of  rocks,  above  which  it  rises 
some  feet  From  the  small  nearly  flat  space,  which  forms 


THE  HIGHEST  MOUNTAIN  IN  NORWAY.  351 

the  head  of  the  Galdhopiggen,  the  frozen,  snow  imme- 
diately slopes  oflF  at  an  angle  of  from  40  to  50  degrees, 
and  joins  the  glaciers  in  the  isiX  distance  below.  It  was 
a  wild  and  desolate  scene,  as  we  sat  on  some  broken 
rocks.  Another  precipice  rose  to  our  right,  as  if  to  test 
supremacy  with  the  Galdhopiggen  in  this  region  of  eternal 
snow.  After  some  slight  refreshment  we  roped  ourselves 
together.  No  great  diflficulty  presented  itself  as  we 
crossed  the  glacier  to  the  rocks  which  formed  an  arrSte 
to  tilie  snow  dome  of  the  Galdhopiggen.  Once  or  twice 
Noah  sank  up  to  his  middle,  but  the  crevasses  were 
narrow  and  easily  crossed.  Very  easy  work  to  one  who 
had  crossed  the  Glacier  des  Bossons. 

Then  commenced  the  ascent  of  the  steep  arrfete  of  rocks, 
but  even  these  presented  no  great  diflSculty  to  a  fair 
average  mountaineer.  Then  came  a  rise  of  frozen  snow 
at  the  junction  of  the  dome  with  the  rocks.  There  was  an 
awkward  crevasse  to  cross.  Ole  carefully  tested  the  snow, 
and  it  was  soon  overcome.  We  were  now  on  the  frozen 
slope  of  the  snow  dome.  On  this,  as  we  had  no  nails  in 
our  thick  fishing-boots,  with  the  utmost  difficulty  we 
could  keep  our  legs.  With  the  aid  of  our  Alpine  stock 
the  summit  was  at  length  reached  at  five  minutes  past 
four  o'clock.  This  is  the  highest  mountain  in  Norway, 
8300  feet  above  sea  level.  When  we  were  on  the  rocks 
of  the  arrete  we  saw  a  glorious  sunrise  over  the  Lauvhoen 
Fjeld.  The  morning  light  enabled  us  to  see  a  vast 
wilderness  of  dark  rocky  peaks  rising  from  a  setting  of 
eternal  snow.  No  sign  of  human  habitation,  no  signs  of 
animal  Ufe — silence  reigned  around  us.  Keindeer's  bones 
were  lying  on  the  rocks  near  the  dome. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

It  waa  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day  after  the  arriyal  of  Cadnrcis  at 
the  gipsy  encampment,  and  nothing  had  yet  occurred  to  make  him  re- 
pent his  flight  from  the  abbey,  and  the  choice  he  had  made.  He  had 
experienced  nothing  but  kindness  and  hospitality,  whUe  the  beantifol 
Beruna  seemed  quite  content  to  pass  her  life  in  studying  his  amuse- 
ment. 

DiSRABLf  s  Venetia, 

THE  reindeer's  PATE — DESOLATE  SCENE  —  SEVERAL  ASCENTS— THE 
FRIGHTENED  PEASANTS — A  COAT  LOST — ESMERALDA'S  VIEWS— ABSENT 
TREASURES — OLE  RE-ENGAGED — A  NEW  ILETTLE  PROP  — THE  HASD- 
BOME  ARTIST — COMFORTABLE  STATION  —  ADIEU  RODSHEIM  —  OUR 
EXCELLENT  GUIDE — CROSSING  THE   BRIDGE — ZACHARIAH'S  ESCAPE. 

On  the  hanging  precipice  of  rocks,  the  highest  in  Nor- 
way, a  reindeer  had  met  its  death.  The  large  glaciers 
of  Tverbroeen  Svelnaasbroe  and  Styggebroeen  we  coulJ 
see  below  us.  The  glorious  sunrise  had  lighted  up  the 
Lauvhoen,  Hestbroepiggene,  Hestho,  Sandgrovho,  Tvoer- 
fjeld,  Lomseggen,  and  Grjotaa  Fjeld  with  its  large  glaciers. 
Then  we  had  the  deep  valley  of  Visdalen  on  one  side 
and  Leirdalen  on  the  other.  The  lofty  Fjelds  of  the 
Eisteinshovd,  Kvitingskjolen,  and  Hjem  Fjeldene  in  the 
distance.  Across  Visdalen  and  near  to  us  the  mour- 
tains   of    the  Glitterho,  Glittertind,*  Glitters  Rundhii, 

•  This  mountain  was  ascended  for  the  first  time  on  the  27th  August, 
1870,  by  Messrs.  Browne  and  Saunders.  An  interesting  account  is  given 
by  T.  L.  Murray  Browne,  in  the  "  Alpine  Club  Journal "  for  Februarv, 
1871. 


DESOLATE  SCENE,  353 

and  Troldsteens  Rundlio.  To  the  west  are  the  mountains 
of  the  Vesle  Fjeld,  the  KjoerringhoBtta  and  many  others. 
What  a  wild  boundless  region  of  peaks  to  the  south — far, 
far  beyond  our  sight.  An  endless  extent  of  riven  rock, 
above  the  glaciers  snow,  of  an  ever  frozen  region.  The 
Stygeho,  Tverbottenhome,  Kirken.  Uledals  Tindeme, 
one  of  whose  peaks  was  also  afterwards  ascended  by 
Messrs.  Browne  and  Saunders.  The  Leirho,  Memurutinden, 
Heilstuguho,  Tyknings,  Sneho,  Besho,  Sikkildals  Ho, 
Heimdalsho,  Simletind,  Skarvdalstind,  Knudshultinden, 
Mugna,  Kalvaahogda  Melkedals-tindeme,  Skagastoltind, 
the  Koldedals-tinderne,  and  the  wild  peaks  of  the  Horun- 
game. 

Noah  lighted  a  fire  on  the  rocks  near  the  dome.  AVe 
sang  a  gipsy  song.  Then  a  memorial  of  our  visit  was 
placed  in  a  bottle,  and  added  to  those  records  of  former 
ascents  already  there.  At  five  o'clock  a.m.  we  commenced 
our  descent,  Ole  leading,  ourself  next,  and  Noah  bringing 
up  the  rear.  In  the  same  order  we  had  ascended.  With 
difficulty  we  kept  our  legs  on  the  frozen  snow  sloping 
from  the  dome.  If  we  had  rolled  with  Ole  and  Noah  to 
the  glaciers  below,  our  wanderings  would  certainly  have 
been  at  an  end. 

The  rocks  were  soon  reached,  and,  descending  to 
the  glaciers  below,  we  reached  Rodsheim  before  ten 
o'clock  the  same  morning.  This  gives  thirteen  hours 
from  Rodsheim  and  return.  Mr.  Watson,  who  is  a 
member  of  the  Alpine  Club,  accomplished  the  ascent  in 
1868  in  nine  hours  and  a  quarter  actual  walking.  The 
Proesten  H.  Hailing  had  made  the  ascent,  and  also  one  of 
the  young  ladies  we  had  met  at  the  Proesten  Ballings.  What 
cannot  ladies  accomplish  when  they  make  up  their  minds  ? 

A  A 


354  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

The  Galdhopiggen,  we  were  told,  was  6rat  ascended 
in  1851  by  a  schoolmaster  and  a  fanner,  who  took  three 
days  to  succeed.     In  1864  Ole  Halvorsen,  or,  as  he  is 
very  often  called  from  his  farm,  Ole  Rodsheim,  ascended 
it  from  Rodsheim.     Captain  R.  J.  Campbell  ascended  it 
in  1866  ;  since  then  to  the  present  time  there  have  been 
several  ascents  from  Rodsheim.    The  Proesten  Honoratus 
Hailing,  of  Lom,  Messrs.  H.  Smith,  Wright,  and  G.  H. 
Wright,  from  Lom  Rectory,  H.  S.  Harriot,  H.  W.  Cuth- 
bert,  J.  Djrmsdale,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Watson,   aiid  lastly, 
Messrs.  Boyson  and  Harrison,  to  whom  Ole  Halvorsen  had 
acted  as  guide  before  we  engaged  his  services.     Some 
tourists  have  ascended,  we  believe,  from  Visdal  since  lie 
first  ascent  was  made. 

Esmeralda  and  Zachariah  welcomed  us  at  our  camp  at 
Rodsheim.  They  had  felt  quite  lost.  Esmeralda  did 
not  approve  of  our  staying  out  all  night.  They  had  not 
been  able  to  sleep.  In  the  middle  of  the  night  they  said 
an  attempt  had  been  made  to  steal  the  donkeys.  Two 
men  were  near  them,  and  one  was  actually  trying  to 
mount  one  of  them.  Esmeralda  and  Zachariah  went  up  to 
them,  and  both  meti  ran  away  along  the  mountain  road 
with  Esmeralda  and  Zachariah  in  pursuit.  We  can 
imagine  Mephistophiles,  the  descendant  of  some  count 
of  Lesser  Egypt,  with  nothing  on  but  his  shirt,  swiftly 
pursuing  two  heavy  peasant  descendants  of  some  Nor- 
wegian chief  of  ancient  time,  flapping  the  road  with 
their  heavy  shoes,  panting  and  breathless  to  escape  the 
unexpected  apparitions  fi'om  the  rocks  of  the  Bcevcr 
Elv  in  the  dead  of  night.  "Norwegians  stealing, 
ce  n'est  pas  possible !"  said  we.  "  Curious  to  examine 
the  animals  near  the  road,  they  had  merely  ventured  to 


ESMEBALDA'8  VIEWS.  355 

inspect  them  closely,  and  you  nearly  frightened  them  to 
death.''* 

A  dismal  revelation  had  also  to  be  made,  for  on 
returning  from  the  Galdhopiggen  it  was  discovered  that 
our  siphonia  overcoat,  secured  by  straps,  had  been  lost 
on  the  arr^te  near  the  mountain's  summit  Ole  would 
then  and  there  have  returned  for  it,  but  this  we  would 
not  allow ;  and  a  look-out  was  to  be  made  during  the 
next  ascent. 

Then  our  boots,  which  were  not  new  when  we  com- 
menced our  wanderings,  were  declared  by  Esmeralda  to 
be  a  complete  wreck.  Before  our  ascent  of  the  Galdho- 
piggen, they  had  been  severely  tested  by  nearly  all  the 
wear  and  tear  of  the  distance  to  Rodsheim.  Even 
Medwin's  won't  last  for  ever.  Then  it  must  be  remem- 
bered we  never  had  a  single  blister  during  the  journey. 
C'est  quelque  chose,  thought  we,  as  Esmeralda  looked  out 
from  the  wardrobe  pocket,  another  pair  of  Medwin's 
fishing-boots  nearly  new.  Shall  we  ever  forget  the  look 
Esmeralda  gave  us  when  she  held  up  the  ddbris  of  those 
replaced  ?  Can  we  forget  the  tone  in  which  she  some* 
what  reproachfully  said,  "  Now,  look  at  these  chockas ! " 

Having  made  a  rapid  but  unsatisfactory  r^sumd  of  the 
results  of  our  ascent,  Esmeralda  treated  the  whole  affair 
in  a  most  contemptuous  spirit.  Instead  of  receiving 
much  laudation,  our  mountain  expedition  was  looked 
upon  as  a  profitless  expenditure  of  time,  and  energy,  and 
a  reckless  desertion  of  our  tents.     In  our  mind  we  con- 

*  An  additional  reason  quite  accounts  for  the  rapid  flight  of  the  night 
viBitoTs.  Esmeralda,  who  was  with  her  brother,  suddenly  shouted  when 
she  saw  them,  "  Halloo  ]  What  are  you  doing  there  1^  and  preceded  her 
brother  in  the  pursuit,  which  must  have  had  a  still  more  startling  effect  on 
the  exaggerated  fancies  of  the  fugitives. 

A  A  2 


368  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAT. 

traated  our  reception  with  what  it  might  have  been  else- 
where. No  cannons  fired  as  at  Chamounix.  No  "  bouquet 
of  flowers  "  as  wo  remember  at  St.  Gervais.  No  "  vin 
d'honneur,"  no  anything.  We  sat  down  to  breakfast,  and 
felt  very  much  as  if  we  had  done  something  wrong  with- 
out having  done  it. 

One  thing  is  quite  certain,  the  appetite  of  the  two 


"KOT,  LOOK  ^i  t: 


mountaineers  had  not  lost  anything  by  the  expedition. 
Breakfast  being  completed,  we  adjourned  with  our  note- 
book to  the  cool  shade  of  some  rocks  just  above  the 
road.  Esmeralda  came  to  talk  to  ua  as  we  wrote.  Two 
or  tliree  lines  went  tolerably  easy,  then  the  pencil  and 
note-book  glided  from  our  hand,  and  we  fell  fast  asleep 
till  mid-day. 


OLS  RB'BNGAOED.  357 

As  we  awoke,  we  perceived  the  silent  figure  of 
Esmeralda  still  watehing  by  us.  It  was  found  to  be 
time  for  dinner  and  we  returned  to  our  tents. 

Two  Swedish  travellers  were  at  Rodsheim.  They 
had  visited  our  tents  before  we  returned  from  the  Gald- 
hopiggen.  One  young  traveller  spoke  some  English ; 
he  said  we  came  to  see  the  pretty  valleys  and  the  pretty 
girls,  but  we  see  no  pretty  girls.  We  went  to  a  saeter, 
and  they  oflfer  us  a  bed,  but  we  see  it  was  dirt,  and  sleep 
in  the  grass.  He  then  asked  them  if  we  could  speak 
Romany.  "Oh,  yes,"  said  Zachariah,  "  he  taught  us,  sir." 
Then  he  inquired  how  we  learned  it.  "  I  don't  know, 
sir,''  answered  Zachariah,  "  but  he  has  books." 

In  arranging  our  things  before  tea  time,  we  fancied  that 
the  aquavit  in  our  flask  had  somewhat  diminished  since 
the  replenishment  for  the  two  artists.  The  subject 
being  mentioned  to  Esmeralda,  for  we  were  always  plain 
with  them,  Noah  seemed  so  hurt,  that  at  last  our  sus- 
picions were  disarmed.  We  were  not  very  certain  ;  we, 
at  any  rate,  blamed  Noah  for  buying  such  brandy  at 
Veblungsnoes ;  it  was  peculiarly  muddy  in  appearance. 
We  had  always  found  Noah  honest,  so  we  ultimately 
left  the  matter  in  the  same  inextricable  confusion  we 
had  found  it,  freely  giving  him  the  benefit  of  all  doubt. 
Having  written  a  letter  or  two  and  entered  a  memo- 
randum of  our  ascent  in  the  guest-book  at  Ole's,  he  came 
to  our  tents  and  had  tea.  As  we  left  the  house  to 
return  to  our  tents  we  met  the  two  artists  at  the  door, 
who  we  found  were  going  to  remain  at  the  station  for 
the  night. 

Ole  Rodsheim  had  given  us  so  much  satisfaction  as 
guide,  that  we  detennined  to  engage  him  again.    We 


358  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

paid  him  three  dollars,  two  marks,  and  twelve  skillings 
for  his  previous  services,  which  included  our  ascent  of 
the  Galdhopiggen.  Another  engagement  was  made  to 
take  us  through  the  mountains  to  the  Mork  Fos,  and 
vid  Eisbod  and  the  Tyen  Vand  to  the  Bergen  road,  near 
Skogstad.  It  was  arranged  that  he  should  have  four 
marks  a  day  and  two  days'  pay,  eight  marks  more,  for  his 
return  home ;  this  amount  to  include  Ole's  board  and 
lodging. 

Having  carefuUy  gone  through  the  maps  of  the 
different  routes  with  Ole,  we  decided  to  start  the  next 
day. 

The  blacksmith,  who  was  a  sober,  sedate  looking  man, 
had  come  occasionally  to  the  log  hut  during  the  day  to 
make  our  kettle  prop  in  the  most  approved  gipsy  fashion, 
size,  and  shape.  Imagine  his  horror  and  astonishment, 
when  he  returned,  after  an  absence,  to  find  Mepliis- 
topheles  hammering  a  piece  of  iron  into  some  incon- 
ceivable shape;  sparks  flying,  tools  freely  used,  fire 
blazing,  and  anvil  ringing.  The  usurpation  was  ahnogt 
too  much  for  him.  AVith  a  caution  to  Zachariah  to  keep 
to  his  own  affairs,  and  explaining  the  matter  to  Ole  as  an 
unfortunate  instance  of  out-of -place  ingenuity,  the 
kettle  prop  was  ultimately  finished  and  Noah's  Alpine 
stock  mended  at  a  cost  of  three  marks  and  a  half. 

This  was  to  be  our  last  evening  at  Rodsheim.  Wc 
were  honoured  by  a  visit  from  one  of  the  beaux  of  the 
village,  who  danced  at  Laurgaard.  Alas  !  there  was  no 
more  dancing  for  our  beau.  The  girls  were  either 
engaged  in  the  harvest  or  at  the  Soeters.  AU  the 
peasants  were  now  busy  in  their  harvest.  The  farmer 
was  carrying  hay  on  the  steep  slope  of  the  valley  opposite 


ADIEU  R6D8HBIM!  359 

our  tent.  Ole  had  a  large  flock  of  goats  brought  in ; 
the  largest  number  we  saw  together  in  Norway.  The 
handsome  artist,  whose  photograph  hung  in  the  station 
at  Rodsheim,  came  to  see  our  tents  at  about  ten  at 
night ;  we  were  just  going  to  bed,  so  he  did  not  remain 
long.  The  Swedish  travellers  had  left,  we  hope,  to  see 
many  pretty  girls  before  they  returned  home.  We  did 
not  see  them  to  speak  to,  or  we  should  have  recommended 
them  to  visit  Skeaker. 

Tolerably  well  rested,  we  were  up  at  six  o'clock  on 
Tuesday,  the  2nd  of  August.  At  seven  we  had  break- 
fast of  broiled  bacon,  bread,  and  tea;  Noah  soon  after 
struck  the  tents,  and  the  things  were  packed  up  ;  a -goat's 
cheese  and  a  "myse  ost,"*  and  all  the  bread  Ole  could 
spare,  was  added  to  our  commissariat.  The  station  at 
Rodsheim  is  well  supplied  with  excellent  bread,  beer,  tea, 
biscuits,  potatoes,  and,  in  fact,  most  requirements  which 
constitute  the  comfort  of  the  hungry  tourist.  They  are 
comfortable  quarters,  and  the  house  very  clean  and  well 
ventilated.  We  had  no  opportunity  of  seeing  the 
sleeping  accommodation,  but  if  we  could  form  an  opinion 
from  what  we  saw  below,  we  have  very  little  doubt  that 
travellers  are  well  cared  for  in  that  respect. 

Our  cost  for  provisions,  butter,  cheese,  bread,  potatoes, 
eggs,  and  milk,  came  to  two  dollars,  three  marks,  and 
fifteen  skillings;  and  we  paid  three  marks,  eight  skil- 
lings  additional  postage  of  letters  vid  Lom.  Some  of 
the  bread  and  cheese  we  took  with  us  for  future  con- 
sumption.   At  ten  o'clock  we  took  our  departure  after 

•  The  "myse  ost"  is  a  cheese,  shaped  like  a  brick,  yellowish  brown  in 
colour,  and  very  hard,  with  a  peculiar  flavour  much  relished.  Small,  thin 
shavings  are  sliced  off  the  cheese  on  to  fladbrod  and  butter,  and  so  it  is  gene- 
rally eaten.    Occasionally  the  thin  shavings  of  cheese  are  eaten  with  grod. 


360  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

we  had  wished  Mrs.  Rodsheim  farewell  She  was  a  quiet, 
delicate,  person,  but  very  neat  and  industrious  and 
attentive.  The  artists  were  still  companions  of  Morpheus, 
so  we  left  them  a  song  each,  and  made  Mrs.  Rodsheim 
the  present  of  an  English  book.  To  Ole,  also,  we  gave 
one  of  our  songs.  We  also  left  the  last  "  London  Ne'ws," 
and  copies  of  the  "  Standard "  at  the  station,  and  so 
ended  our  pleasant  visit  at  Rodsheim. 

Noah  and  Zachariah  went  on  before  us  with  the  merles 
and  baggage,  Ourself  and  Esmeralda  sat  upon  a  rock 
a  short  distance  above  Rodsheim  waiting  for  Ole  to 
come  up.  The  valley  at  this  point  widens ;  the  river  is 
very  broad,  shallow,  and  picturesque,  before  it  loses 
itself  in  the  deep  rocky  gorge  at  Rodsheim. 

The  scene  was  so  charming  and  the  morning  so  lovely 
we  could  have  lingered  there  with  hours  of  pleasure.  In 
the  distance  up  the  valley  we  could  see  the  small  wooden 
church  of  Boeverdal ;  but  Ole  is  come,  and  we  must 
away. 

Ole  equipped  for  the  mountains.  He  had  high  Nor- 
wegian boots,  lacing  up,  much  resembling  the  ladies' 
Alpine  tourist  boot,  but  of  course  of  rougher  make.  Ole 
had  left  his  dark  coat  behind  him,  so  as  to  be  more  at 
ease.  His  trousers  were  tied  round  the  leg  below  the 
knee  with  pieces  of  cord ;  he  had  his  knapsack,  wallet, 
and  staflf.  The  photograph  represents  Ole  Halvorsen,  of 
Rodsheim,  near  Lom,  as  he  appears  in  his  coat.  We 
esteemed  ourselves  fortunate  in  having  secured  the 
services  of  a  guide  in  every  way  trustworthy,  and 
thoroughly  acquainted  with  an  extensive  region  of  moim- 
tain  land.  Ole  was  in  the  best  period  of  his  life,  when 
man's  strength  and  experience  unite  in  maturity;  as  the 


ZACHARIAS'S  ESCAPE.  361 

the  companion  of  the  reindeer  hunter  and  Alpine  tourist 
he  is  invaluahle ;  never  makes  difficulties,  speaks  English 
well,  will  do  the  best  he  can  to  save  expense,  talks  little, 
but  to  the  purpose,  is  always  ready  for  a  start  at  what- 
ever early  hour  you  name.     Turning  along  the  mountain 
road  from  the  valley  to  the  left  of  the  church,  we  over- 
took Noah  and  Zachariah.     We  were  told  that  service  is 
performed  in  the  church  every  fourth  Sunday.     It  was 
built,  Ole  said,  for  2000  dollars;  500  dollars  from  Govern- 
ment, 500  dollars  secured  by  a  chief  rent,  and  1000 
dollars  contributed  by  the  inhabitants.     Not  much   of 
our  morning   route  had  been  accomplished,  when  we 
came  to  a  narrow  bridge  over  a  wild,  rapid,  foaming, 
torrent,  rushing  over  a  declivity.     Vain  was  our  attempt 
to  get  any  of  the   donkeys  over  the   bridge.    It  was 
amusing  to  see  the  fierce  contention ;  gispies  pulling, 
gipsies  pushing,  Ole  and  ourself  mixed  up  in  the  general 
struggle  without  avail.     Then  we  determined  to  force 
them  through  the  torrent,  which  rushing  swiftly  over 
large  stones,  and  then  falling  in  cascades  below,  was 
difficult  to  wade.     We  could  not  remain  all  day.     One 
donkey  was  forced  in,  and  got  safe  through ;  another, 
also,   but  the  third,  which  was  rather  heavily  laden, 
would  not  stir  till  Mephistopheles  suddenly  jumped  on 
the  top  of  the  baggage.     The  donkey  was  soon  stag- 
gering through,  guided  by  Zachariah  in  the  rough  rocks 
of  the  stream.     For  a  moment,  the  animal  faltered  in 
its  foot-hold.     Are  they  both  to  be  carried  down  the 
roaring  cascades?     Another  plunge,  and  by  good  for- 
tune, the  donkey  reached  firm  ground  and  more  shallow 
water ;   they  were  soon  safely  landed. 

Very  thankful  we  were  that  Zachariah  had  come  out 


362  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

of  t  he  adventure  safely.  We  had  no  desire  to  lose  our 
Mephistopheles,  and  if  he  had  not  suddenly  mounted  on 
the  spur  of  the  moment  we  should  have  prevented  him 
from  incurring  such  a  risk 

The  route  was  delightful;  sometimes  through  forest 
scenes  and  along  the  mountain  stream,  till  at  last  we 
came  to  the  Elv  Soeter  at  about  half-past  twelve 
o'clock. 

The  Elv  Soeter  is  now  a  large  form,  though  origmally 
it  was,  as  the  name  indicates,  probably  nothing  but  a 
mountain  soeter. 


CHAPTER  XXXn. 

What  if  in  yonder  chief,  of  tattered  vest, 

Glows  the  same  blood  that  warmed  a  Pharaoh's  breast  ?  — 

II  in  the  fiery  eye,  the  haughty  mien. 

The  tawny  hue  of  yonder  gipsy  queen, 

Still  dwells  the  light  of  Cleopatra's  charms, 

The  winning  grace  that  roused  the  world  to  anns— > 

That  called  Bome*s  legions  to  a  watery  grare, 

And  bound  earth's  lord  to  be  a  woman's  slaye  f 

Deah  Stanley's  Prize  Poem,  '^The  Gipsies.'* 

THE  ELV  8<ETER — A  MOUNTAINEER — THE  YTTERDAL  SCBTER — TO  MAKE 
GROD — THE  GROD  STICK-— EVENING  CONCERT — ^A  WILD  NIGHT — THE 
WATERFALL — MOUNTAIN  GLACIERS — THE.  LERA  ELV  —  CAMP  BY  A 
GLACIER — NOMADIC  HAPPINESS — A  GIPSY  mAeLSTROM— INSECT  LITE. 

The  wooden  buildings  are  large  and  capacious  and  in 
good  order,  and  one  portion  of  the  building  was  sur- 
mounted by  a  cupola,  with  a  large  bell  to  call  the  farm 
people  to  meals.     We  noticed  two  enormous  pine-tree 
logs   as  we  passed  through  the    yard    of   the    farm. 
Near  a  log  hut,  a  short  distance  beyond  the  farm-house, 
we  camped  at  the  edge  of  the  deep,  narrow  ravine,  in 
the  depth  of  which  we  could  hear  the  sound  of  the 
river  below.     Ole  said  we  could  have  some  reindeer 
meat,  and,  going  to  the  farm,  we  were  shown  a  cask 
half  full  of  salted  reindeer,  in    a  dark  store    under 
a  sort  of  granary.     For  one  mark  we  purchased  about 
four  pounds  weight,  without  bone.     There  was  a  kind  of 


364  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

crate  near,  with  a  small  grod  span  in  it,  a  sort  of  barrel 
for  carrying  food.  We  afterwards  purchased  a  rope 
made  of  pigs  bristles,  very  light  and  useful,  and  nine 
pounds  of  barley-meal,  and  another  mark's  worth  of 
reindeer  meat.     The  whole  cost — 

Rope  of  pigs'  bristles 2  12 

0  lbs.  barley  meal  112 

Beindeer  meat,  about  Slbs.         .        .        .        .20 

Total  |1     1    0 

Ole  said  the  reindeer  had  been  killed  some  time,  and 
when  we  seemed  to  doubt  whether  it  was  killed  in  season, 
he  remarked  it  occasionally  happened  that  they  were 
killed  by  accident  The  reindeer  hunter  came  to  our 
camp  when  we  were  having  our  fried  reindeer  and  tea. 
He  was  the  son  of  the  widow  of  the  owner  of  the  farm, 
and  she  was  then  at  a  soeter.  The  reindeer  hunter  was  a 
tall,  spare,  active  young  fellow,  fair,  with  his  hair  cut 
short.  He  wore  a  Norwegian  cloth  cap,  a  coarse  shirt, 
without  necktie,  secured  at  the  neck  by  a  large  silver 
button.  His  loose  trousers  were  faced  with  dark  leather, 
and  also  the  seat;  large  Wellington  boots  of  pliable 
rough  leather  came  up  to  nearly  his  knee,  with  red 
leather  let  into  their  tops.  He  had  something  of  the 
bearing  of  Slim-slam,  our  friend  at  Laurgaard,  and  his 
tout  ensemble  was  decidedly  picturesque.  Ole  told  us 
he  had  once  been  out  with  some  artists  upon  the  moun- 
tains with  a  tent. 

Our  gipsies  packed  up  and  we  left  about  half-past 
four  o'clock,  which  aflforded  us  sufficient  time  to  enter 
up  our  notes.  Our  way  is  now  through  forest  scenes, 
up  a  rough  mountain  road.     At  no  very  great  distance 


THE  YTTEEDAL  8(ETEE.  365 

on  our  right  we  had  "  Raudals  Vand,"  a  large  lake,  and 
the  "  Blaaho/'  and  "  Hest-brsB-piggene "  mountains. 
Sometimes  we  were  close  to  the  Lera  Elv  ;  at  other  times 
our  route  took  us  more  into  the  forest.  Often  we 
lingered  to  make  a  hasty  sketch,  and  then  Esmeralda 
would  wait  on  the  side  of  the  rout^  lest  we  should  miss 
the  track  in  the  forest.  No  hobbenengree  could  be  more 
careful  of  the  Shorengro  of  the  expedition*  Later  in 
the  evening  a  mizzling  rain  fell,  and  at  last  we  crossed 
the  river  through  a  shallow  ford.  Near  the  river,  below 
a  lofty  mountain,  we  reached  the  Ytterdal  Soeter. 

The  Ytterdal  Soeter  consisted  of  a  collection  of  log 
huts,  with  a  loose  stone-wall  paddock  behind.  Cows, 
goats,  and  bristly  pigs  were  scattered  about  the  trampled 
ground  among  the  rocks  close  to  the  soeter.  Down  the 
steep  mountain  above  we  could  see  a  picturesque  vand 
fos.  When  we  came  to  the  soeter  a  shepherd's  dog  kept 
up  a  constant  barking  which  Mephistopheles  did  his  best 
to  perpetuate  until  sharply  rebuked. 

Ole  and  Noah  then  went  round  the  house  to  select  a 
camp  ground  in  the  inclosure.  All  was  damp  with 
drizzling  rain,  as  our  gipsies  drove  the  donkeys  through 
a  broken  gap  in  the  wall,  and  pitched  our  tents  in  the 
comer  of  the  inclosure,  near  the  soeter.  Being  rather 
damp  we  changed  our  things,  and  then  decided  to  have 
grod  for  our  aftens-mad.  Ole  went  to  prepare  the  grod 
at  the  sceter;  the  rest  went  to  learn  the  method  of 
making  it.  First,  he  filled  the  large  iron  pot  of  the 
soeter  with  water,  to  which  he  added  a  small  quantity 
of  salt,  and  a  little  barley-meal;  the  water  boiled  in 
twelve  minutes ;  then  the  woman  placed  the  large  end 
of  the  short  grod-stick  in  the  boiling  water,  and  kept 


366  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

rapidly  swirling  it  backwards  and  forwards  between  tie 
palms  of  ber  hands,  whilst  Ole  added  from  time  to 
time  barley-meal  from  the  bag,  till  the  proper  consisu 
tency  was  obtained ;  the  pot  was  taken  ofiF  the  fire  in 
about  three  minutes  after  the  water  conmienced  boiling  ; 
the  grod  was  then  ready  to  be  eaten.  This,  with  a 
large  can  of  milk,  was  carried  to  our  tents  for  the 
evening's  meal. 

It  is  usual  when  the  grod  is  eaten  for  each  person  t*} 
have  two  small  bowls,  one  containing  milk  and  the  other 
the  grod,  and  then  a  spoonful  of  grod  is  taken  and 
dipped  in  the  milk  and  so  eaten.  Our  party  afterwards' 
dispensed  with  two  bowls,  the  grod  and  milk  being  pnt 
into  one  bowl,  which  saved  trouble,  with  the  same 
result. 

The  wooden  bowl,  and  the  wooden  spoon,  and  the 
grod-stick,  which  is  made  of  a  small  fir  sapling  taken  up 
by  the  roots  and  peeled,  and  the  roots  and  stump  cut  to 
the  length  required,  we  purchased  for  twelve  skillings 
next  morning  from  the  woman  of  the  Ytterdals  Soeter, 
and  they  are  represented  in  the  following  engraving. 

Some  of  the  grod  we  reserved  for  breakfast,  and  it  is 
considered  all  the  better  after  it  has  been  kept  for  a 
short  time. 

Noah  informed  us  at  tea  that  he  should  let  into  the 
pobengree  (gip.,  cider)  when  he  reached  England,  and 
have  a  good  soak.  Gently,  Noah,  or  there  will  be  none 
left  for  anyone  else. 

The  women  of  the  soeter  were  all  lightly  dressed,  a 
chemise  and  a  petticoat  being  nearly  all  they  had  oa 
They  keep  about  twenty  cows,  and  make  from  thii'ty  to 
forty  cheeses  in  the  summer  season,  which  sell  for  four 


QR0D-8TICK,  SPOON,  AND  BOWL.  367 

marks  each.  We  counted  forty-five  goata  near  the  soeter. 
The  woman's  husband  was  engaged  at  the  harvest  in  the 
lower  valley. 

It  waa  veiy  dark  as  we  went  to  the  sceter,  after  our 
evening  meal  was  concluded.  We  found  three  other 
women  there.  The  room  was  scrupulously  clean.  It  is 
certainly  the  most  comfortable,  and  cleanly  soater,  we  met 
with  during  our  wanderings ;  they  had  a  good  bedstead,     \^ 


convenient  fire-place,  and  a  very  ingenious  folding  table. 
It  was  a  curious  scene,  as  we  played  our  music  by 
the  fire-light  and  watched  their  interested  countenances. 
The  women  were  very  fair.  All  mountain  races  are  fond 
of  music.  It  wodd  seem  as  if  the  quickened  instincts 
of  the  people,  whose  lot  is  cast  so  much  in  mountain 
scenes,  are  attuned  to  harmony  with  nature.  The 
women  seemed  much  pleased.     The  room  was  dread- 


368  TENT  LIFE   IN  NORWAY. 

fully  hot  and  we  had  the  door  propped  open,  whici 
was  the  cause  of  occasional  contests  with  a  tame  goai, 
who  seemed  detennined  to  come  in.  At  last  we 
were  glad  to  escape  the*  heat  and  went  out  into  a  dark, 
windy,  rainy  night  It  poured  with  rain  as  we  got  to 
our  tents,  yet  we  did  not  envy  Ole  Rodsheim  hii 
night's  rest  in  the  hot  room  of  the  soeter ;  but  hot  and 
cold  seemed  all  the  same  to  .Ole.  Then  the  rain  camt 
down  so  heavily  it  began  to  come  into  our  tent,  and  a 
trench  being  now  dug  round  it  we  soon  fell  asleep. 

The  grod  and  some  more  milk  fonned  our  frokost, 
and  saved  tea,  sugar,  bread  and  butter.  Mixed  occa- 
sionally with  other  food  it  is  excellent  for  the  mountains 
where  vou  can  have  fresh  milk  at  the  soeters.  The 
nutriment  was  quite  sufficient  for  mountain  work.  A 
meal  of  grod  and  milk  for  five  hungry  people  cost 
on  an  average  the  sum  of  about  sixpence.  The  cost  of 
the  five  kops  of  milk  at  the  soeter  was  twenty  skillings.* 
The  woman  seemed  well  satisfied  with  eight  skillings  for 
the  trouble  we  had  given  her.  The  two  pounds  of 
butter  we  purchased  to  take  with  us  cost  two  marks 
more. 

Whilst  the  donkeys  were  being  loaded,  taking  Zachariah 
with  us,  we  went  to  see  the  waterfall  above  the  soeter.  The 
torrent  dashes  from  the  steep  mountain  above,  and  de- 
scends in  fleecy  clouds  to  the  broken  rocks  below.  Occa- 
sionally, above  the  continuous  sound  of  the  falling  waters, 
we  could  hear  a  rattling  roar,  as  if  loose  rocks  were 
suddenly  dashed  about  in  the  waters  far  above.  Then 
all  subsided  into  the  same  constant  hum  of  the  falling 
torrent.     It  is  picturesque,  but  quite  below  comparison 

•  Kop  i»  the  Norwegian  for  cup.  Milk  is  often  sold  in  Norway  by  the  kop. 


THE  LEkA   ELV.  369 

^with.    many  we  had  before  seen,  especially  in  Boms* 
dal. 

Wlien  we  returned,  and  were  ready  to  start,  we  missed 
Ole,  Noah,  and  Esmeralda,  who  we  at  last  found  eating 
best  fladbrod  and  cheese  in  the  soeter.  It  was  a  present 
from  the  woman. 

Saying  adieu  to  the  women  of  the  soeter,  we  now  left 
at  ten  o'clock  The  fir  woods  had  been  left  behind,  and 
we  proceeded  up  the  wild  valley  of  the  Lera  from  the 
Ytterdals  Soeter. 

The  Vesle  Fjeld  and  its  glaciers  were  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Lera.  One  peak  of  dark  rock  rising  fix>m  glaciers 
on  either  side,  Ole  said  had  never  been  ascended.  Ole 
said  Messrs.  Boyson  and  Harrison  were  much  pleased 
with  the  scenery. 

At  the  soeter  Ole  had  found  one  of  Mr.  Boyson  s 
spoons,  which  had  been  left  there,  and  he  was  going  to 
xetum  it.  We  were  told  that  at  one  place  Mr.  Boyson 
had  accidentally  left  a  bag  containing  £30,  but  of  course 
in  Norway  it  was  perfectly  safe,  and  was  afterwards 
restored  safely  to  his  possession. 

The  sun  became  very  hot.  Esmeralda  and  Zachariah 
both  rode  upon  the  baggage  of  their  donkeys.  The  road 
now  became  a  mere  narrow  track.  All  the  donkeys  were 
evidently  suffering  from  the  heat.  The  Puru  Rawnee 
had  fallen  once,  and  the  Tamo  Rye,  after  falling  with 
Esmeralda  two  or  three  times,  was  unloaded,  and  we 
halted  at  some  rocks  above  a  waterfall  on  the  Lera. 

It  was  an  exceedingly  warm  spot,  with  no  shade.  The 
second  piece  of  reindeer  meat  was  boiled  in  our  kettle, 
with  some  potatoes.  Though  rather  salt,  the  soup  was 
excellent     Some  of  the  boiled  meat  and  potatoes  were 

B  B 


370  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

also  eaten,  and  washed  down  with  spring  water.  After 
middags-mad  we  tried  to  write  our  notes,  and  fell  fast 
asleep.  In  fact,  we  were  all  disinclined  to  move,  but 
managed  to  start  about  four  o'clock 

Mephistopheles  was  in  high  spirits.  Noah  was  very 
lively,  which  soon  ended  in  a  disagreement  with  Esme- 
ralda.  We  had  to  quiet  the  contending  parties.  The 
oflFence  charged  against  Noah  we  noted  down,  and  it 
was  a  serious  one.  In  a  surreptitious  manner  Noah  had 
possessed  himself  of  his  sister's  cloak,  which  he  had  tried 
on,  with  an  attempted  imitation  of  her  dtstinguS  style  of 
stepping  over  the  rough  banks  of  the  Lera  Elv.  In 
Noah's  clumsy  imitation  of  his  sister's  movements,  which 
were  just  the  reverse  of  clumsy,  he  contrived  to  poke  a 
hole  through  the  Alpine  cloak.  We  say  no  more,  only 
we  refer  the  reader  to  a  paragraph  of  the  short  extracts 
from  Proesten  Sundt's  work,  in  our  Appendix,  and,  as 
there  described,  we  feared  similar  results. 

At  about  seven  o'clock  we  encamped.  The  donkeys 
had  done  better  in  the  cool  of  the  evening ;  it  was 
decided  that  they  had  quite  enough  to  cany,  without  the 
addition  of  extra  weight,  especially  over  the  rough  and 
stony  route  before  us.  Adhering  firmly  to  this  resolve, 
unless  for  the  purpose  of  crossing  some  river,  the  a-niTnalfi; 
enjoyed  this  immunity  for  the  rest  of  our  wander- 
ings. The  part  of  the  valley  where  we  had  halted  for 
the  night  was  very  wild  ;  there  was  very  little  verdure, 
except  some  low  stunted  bushes,  moss,  and  heath.  Ole 
and  the  gipsies  gathered  heath  enough  to  make  a  fire  for 
tea.  The  tents  were  pitched  exactly  opposite  the  "  Smor- 
stab  Braeen"  (Butter  glacier).  We  contemplated  with 
interest  an  outline  of  sharp  dark  peaks  rising  before  us* 


NOMADIC  HAPPINESS.  371 

Close  to  US,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Lera  Elv,  extended 
the  glacier  of  the  "  Blaabrseen."  Beyond  we  could  see  the 
Tverbottenhomene.  A  short  distance  from  our  camp  we 
found  a  deserted  cabin  occasionally  used  by  reindeer 
hunters. 

It  is  with  much  pleasure  we  are  able  to  say  that  Noah 
and  Esmeralda  were  not  prevented,  by  results  similar  to 
those  described  in  the  paragraph  referred  to  in  the 
Appendix,  from  appearing  at  tea. 

There  was  something  so  hors  de  voyage  ordinaire  in 
our  wandering  existence,  so  charming  in  the  freshness  of 
-wild  nature,  so  free  from  conventional  restraint,  lingering 
in  regions  not  yet  spoilt  by  so-called  art,  and  disfigured 
by  man's  attempts  at  civilisation.     All  was  so  silent,  as 
Tive  looked  from  our  camp  fire  in  delighted  contemplation 
of  the  great  glacier  of  the  "  Smorstab,"  and  the  sharp- 
peaked  mountains  separating  us,  as  it  were,  from  other 
vrorlds.     We  had  escaped  for  a  time,  the  thousand  and 
one  cares,  which  beset  us  on  every  side  in  dense  popula- 
tions, and  had  left  far  behind  those  scenes,  and  voluptuous 
lures,  which  the  poet  saith 

Meek  Peace  was  ever  wont  to  shim. 

Tea  was  cleared  away  by  our  energetic  hobbinengree. 
We  often  silently  congratulated  ourselves  that  the  tea 
service  was  of  tin,  such  was  the  rapidity  with  which  they 
sometimes  vanished  into  her  kettle  bag. 

Mr.  Kodsheim,  as  the  gipsies  generally  called  Ole, 
commenced  the  manufacture  of  birchwood  cruppers  for 
our  animals,  in  anticipation  of  steep  mountain  ways,  and 
he  also  engaged  his  time  on  some  hobbles  of  the  same 
wood,  which  we  wished  to  take  to  England.     Then,  as 

B  B  2 


372  TENT  LIFE    IN  NORWAY. 

night  came  fast  upon  ub,  Ole  selected  his  bed  between 
two  large  rocks ;  with  our  spade  he  made  with  rongb 
Boda  a  sort  of  turf  coffin,  about  a  foot  deep,  over  which 
he  placed  a  largo  moss  of  heath  roots,  and  moss  whicli 
he  had  peeled  off  the  ground,  the  moss  being  turned 
downwards ;  then  our  waterproof  was  placed  OTer  all 
When  his  bed  was  ready,  he  proposed  that  we  should 
start  at  five  o'clock  the  next  morning. 

"  I  shan't  get  up  at  five  o'clock  1 "  shouted  Esmeralda, 


in  a  shrill  voice,  which  nearly  broke  the  drum  of  Ole'a 
right  ear.  "  I  don't  care  ;  I  shan't  get  up  to  please  any- 
body 1 " 

No^  and  Zachariah  looked  at  one  another,  as  much  as 
to  say,  "  Dawdy !  she's  up ;  may  our  good  shorengero 
land  safely  on  the  other  side." 

"  The  next  day's  journey  is  a  long  one,"  saggeated 
Ole,  slowly  recovering;  and  we  promptly  decided  for 
half-past  five.  Ole  screwed  himself  into  his  turf  coffin, 
and,  wrapping  his  head'  in  his  woollen  shawl,  we  laid  tJie 


INSECT  LIFE.  373 

w^aterproof  over  him,  and  he  was  comfortable  for  the 
night. 

''Well/'  said  we  to  Esmeralda,  being  determined  to 
maintain  discipline,  "you  shall  please  yourself,  but 
remember  we  move  on  in  good  time  to-morrow."  Our 
hobbenengree  was  at  once  a  study,  which  would  have 
made  the  fortune  of  an  artist. 

For  a  time  we  wrote  up  our  notes,  till  the  shadows  of 
night  descended  on  the  dark  peaks,  and  a  chill  air  came 
from  the  Smorstab  glacier,  when  we  retired  to  rest. 

Our  sleep  the  next  morning  was  disturbed  by  Ole 
asking  for  matches  and  paper  to  light  a  fire.  Very 
shortly  we  joined  him.  "Now,  Zachariah!' — ^vand!  vand!* 
Zachariah  and  Noah  were  soon  up.  We  had  only  made 
eight  miles  yesterday,  and  it  was  a  long  day's  journey 
'  to  reach  the  Utladal  Stol.  The  morning  was  windy,  with 
a  heavy  dew,  but  we  could  see  the  sun  creeping  down 
the  opposite  mountain  peaks,  promising  a  hot  day. 

Tea  was  soon  ready;  a  tin  of  potted  meat  was 
opened,  and  spread  upon  slices  of  bread.  All  four  com- 
menced breakfast  with  a  good  appetite. 

When  Esmeralda  found  that  we  did  not  attempt  to 
disturb  her,  it  is  wonderful  how  quick  she  appeared,  and 
the  tents  were  immediately  after  packed  up.  Our  camp 
was  about  4,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  We 
observed  some  cow-dung  flies  and  spiders  in  our  tent 
before  it  was  packed  up. 

The  rugged  peaks  of  the  Tverbottenhornene  (signifying 
peaks  of  the  pass  from  one  valley  to  another)  rose  before 
us.  What  a  line  of  dark  peaks !  The  scenery  of  this 
valley  is  extremely  wild. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

"  That  the  langaage  of  the  Hindooe  and  that  of  the  ancient  ESgyptians 
may  haye  sprang  from  the  same  root  ia  veiy  probable ;  nay,  it  U 
almost  certain.  The  language  of  the  latter  is  a  lost  language,  that  of 
the  gipsies  a  found  one,  claimed  by  and  for  no  other  people.  AH 
these  things  tend  to  confirm  the  snrmise  (may  I  say  the  fact  ?),  that  the 
gipsies  are  the  long-dispersed  Egyptians.  To  talk  of  their  being 
Sondras  (without  showing  a  miraculons  change  of  natare)|  would  be  ss 
absurd  as  to  affirm  that  they  were  expelled  Esquimaux. " 

The  Oipsies,     By  Samuml  Bobuis. 

THE  VIEGIN  PEAK — ^ESMERALDA  IN  THE  LBRA— A  DRIPPTNO  NBRETO— 
HEAVY  CLOUDS — THE  CHURCH  MOUNTAIN — WILD  REINDEKB— WHEEE'S 
THE  TEA  ?— SINGULAR  GLACIER — ^VALLEY  OF  RED  SANDSTONE— 
THE  hunter's  cave — THE  UTLADAL  STOl— -THE  MUMPLY  VALLEY— 
FLODSGROD — A  MOUNTAIN  STOL — ^A  JIOUGH  PATH — THE  PURU 
RAWNEE's  ESCAPE — THE  NARROW  BRIDGE. 

At  eight  o'clock  we  were  en  route  up  the  valley,  and 
at  length  came  in  sight  of  the  steep,  dark,  and  pointed 
mountain  called  "  Kirken,"  or  "  Church  Mountain."  This 
mountain  reminded  us  very  much  of  the  "  Trifaen  Moun- 
tain," near  the  gloomy  lake  called  Llyn  Idwal,  in  North 
Wales,  which  we  once  ascended.  Even  the  barren  sterility 
of  the  * 'Trifaen,"  and  the  shores  of  Llyn  Idwal,  and  the 
"  Devil's  Kitchen  "  above ;  the  stony  wastes  of  the  glyders, 
and  the  rugged  pass  of  Llanberis,  have  no  scenes  of 
extreme  desolation,  and  absence  of  vegetable  and  animal 
life,  similar  to  some  of  the  wilder  Norwegian  valleys 
through  which  we  wandered.     "  Kirken,"  we  were  told, 


ESMERALDA  IN  THE  LERA.  375 

had  never  been  ascended.  Had  time  permitted,  we 
should  have  been  much  tempted  to  have  spent  some  days 
on  the  shores  of  the  lake  near. 

Alas !  the  Norwegian  siunmer  is  too  fleeting.  When 
we  came  up  the  valley,  near  the  Leir  Vand,  which  is 
4736  feet  above  the  sea,  Ole  proposed  that  the  party 
should  cross  the  Lera.  It  was  a  tolerably  wide,  rapid, 
broken  stream,  where  the  donkeys  had  to  cross. 

Ole  and  myself  went  some  distance  up  the  river,  and 
Ole  soon  crossed.  We  were  preparing  to  do  so,  when 
we  saw  Mephistopheles,  mounted  on  the  top  of  his  loaded 
donkey,  stemming  the  rapid  waters  of  the  Lera  in  the 
distance  below. 

The  loaded  Puru  Eawnee  was  also  bravely  struggling 
in  the  rapid  current  of  the  river  for  the  other  bank. 

Then,  as  we  turned  again,  we  saw  Esmeralda's  blue 
feather  flaunting  in  the  wind,  as,  mounted  on  the  bag- 
gage of  her  loaded  donkey,  she  was  plunging  across  the 
rough  'bed  of  the  river,  when,  oh !  the  Tamo  Eye  has 
made  a  false  step !  Our  baggage  gone — saturated  and 
spoilt !  Instantaneously,  a  fearful  splash  :  Esmeralda  is 
tumbled  into  the  river,  and  the  baggage  saved. 

Are  those  sounds  of  suppressed  lamentation  we  hear 
from  Ole  and  Mephistopheles,  on  the  bank  of  the  Lera  ? 
It  seemed  to  us  more  like  laughter  than  anything  else 
we  ever  heard.     - 

We  were  too  far  off  to  render  assistance,  before  we  saw 
the  dripping  form  of  our  high-spirited  gipsy  girl  rise 
from  the  cold  icy  waters  of  the  Lera.  Esmeralda  looked 
hke  a  beautiful  Nereid— a  wild  water-nymph.  Her  long 
raven  hair,  now  without  a  hat,  glistened  with  the  falling 
moisture  of  a  thousand  spangles  in  the  sun.    Will  no  one 


376  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

plunge  in  to  help  her  ?  Would  we  were  there  !  Now  she 
has  reached  the  shore.  Crossing  the  river  we  were  soon 
with  our  party.  Esmeralda  was  very  wet  Although 
the  stream  was  not  very  deep,  falling  in  as  she  did,  her 
clothes  were  completely  soaked.  The  straw  hat  and  blue 
feather,  carried  off  by  the  stream,  was  recovered  some 
distance  below. 

The  cold  waters  of  the  Lera  had  not  improved  the 
temper  of  our  hobbenengree.  We  offered  her  our  best 
consolation,  and  at  once  proceeded  en  route  as  the  best 
means  of  drying  her  clothes.  Her  amour  propre  had 
been  touched  by  the  laughter  of  Noah  and  ZachariaL 

Ole,  with  his  usual  tact,  went  as  far  in  advance  as  was 
compatible  with  his  duties  as  guide. 

Mephistopheles,  in  his  most  insinuating  tones,  said: 
'*  Dawdy,  wouldn't  the  Rye  have  gone  into  the  panee  to 
save  his  Romany  Juval  ?    Wouldn't  ypu,  sir  ? " 

"  And  why  didn't  he  do  so  ? "  said  Esmeralda,  sharply. 
"  Nobody  stirred ;  I  might  have  drowned  over  and  over 
again  for  what  they  cared." 

"  Well,  daughter,  we  were  just  agoin'  in,"  said  Noah, 
with  a  grim  snule. 

"  Going !  "  shouted  Esmeralda ;  "  go  to  Gorsley,  and 
see  Lizzy.  Ambrose  can  do  it ;  can't  he  ?  What  a  state 
he  makes  himself  over  everybody  else." 

Now  Noah  was  up.  Esmeralda,  by  her  allusion  to 
Gorsley,  had  hit  Noah  in  some  vulnerable  placa 

The  pretty  little  donkey,  which  had  done  its  best  with 
a  heavy  load,  and  the  addition  of  Esmeralda's  weight, 
was  of  course  severely  anathematized;  but,  strange  to 
say,  like  the  Kttle  jackdaw  in  the  "  Ingoldsby's  Legends," 
it  seemed  '  never  a  penny  the  worse." 


KIRKEiJ  MOVNTAIN.  377 

Indeed,  Esmeralda  was  very  angry ;  but  at  last  she 
became  more  cheerful  in  proportion  as  her  clothes  be- 
came more  dry.  We  were  still  in  sight  of  the  Leir  Vand. 
There  are  no  fish  in  it,  or  apparently  in  the  Licra  Elv, 
Kirken  (Church)  Mountain  is  extremely  steep  and  pic- 
turesque.     This  view  of   Kirken   (Church)   Mountain, 


ZIBKBV  KODHTIIV,    rSOM 


steep,  dark,  and  esciup^,  and  of  the  Tverbottenhomene, 
the  dark  rocky  mountain  to  the  left,  standing  almost 
isolated  and  apart,  as  seen  from  a  point  of  view  in  the 
Gravdal,  we  sketched  during  our  mid-day  halt.  I 

We  were  not  far  from  the  Iiang  Vand  and  Visdal.   Ole  \ 
said  that  four  valleys  commence  near  Church  Mountain : 
Visdal,  Leirdal  (Clay  Valley),  Gjendindal,  and  Gravdal 


373  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

(Valley  of  the  Grave).    Four  rivers  have  also  their  source 
here  :  Visa  Elv,  Lera  Elv,  Gjendin  Elv,  Gravdal  Elv,  We 
had  to  ford  several  smaller  streams,  and  our  route  lav 
over  a  wUd,  ^e,  .toBy  tr«t.  «nong  pictureaq-e.  Aarp, 
peaky  moimtains.     We  could  see  the  peaks  of  Uledals 
Tindeme,  one  of  which  was  soon  afterwards  ascended 
by  Messrs.  Browne.     Coming  at  length  to  a  small  lake, 
we  distinctly  saw  on  a  glacier  below  a  mountain  called  by 
Ole  the  Hogvarden  Tind  (Peak  of  the  High  Pass),  a  herd 
of  about  forty-five  wild  reindeer.     We  were  not  very  far 
from  them.     Under  the  shelter  of  scattered  rocks  we 
could  have  had  a  still  closer  view.     Ole  regretted  he  had 
not  brought  a  rifle.     They  might  have   been  stalked 
easily.     The  sun  was  also  in  our  favour.    Although  for 
some  time  we  were  in  view  of  the  reindeer,  they  did  not 
notice  us,  and  when  we  went  out  of  sight  the  herd  were 
still  on  the  glacier.  It  was  a  beautiful  sight  as  we  watched 
them  on  the  sloping  snow.    Descending  down  the  valley, 
we  called  a  halt  at  a  large  rock  near  a  small  mountain 
stream.     We  had  accomplished  a  distance  of  about  eight 
or  nine  miles.     It  was  about  twelve  o'clock.     Not  far 
from  where  we  halted  runs  Simledal  (Hart's  Valley),  and 
beyond  us  Ole  pointed  out  the  direction  of  the  Randal 
(Red  Valley). 

We  were  now  in  our  element.  How  could  we  be  un- 
happy in  such  picturesque  scenes,  pure  nature,  pure  air, 
free  existence  ?  Even  our  gipsies  were  in  keeping  with 
the  rough  unhewn  rocks  and  wild  flowers  of  this  unfre- 
quented region.  Just  at  this  point  of  reflection  Mephis- 
topheles,  who  was  boiling  our  can  of  water  over  a  fire  of 
heath  roots  and  moss,  called  out  in  a  melancholy  scream- 
ing tone  of  voice,  exactly  imitating  his  sister  at  our  camp 


SINGULAR  GLACIER.  379 

the  evening  before,  "Where's  the  tea?  Zachariah!! 
where's  the  tea  ? "  It  was  so  trae  to  tone  and  manner 
that,  braving  Esmeralda's  displeasure,  even  Ole  joined  in 
the  laugh.  AU  was  immediately  fun  and  merriment  in 
our  camp.  Even  Esmeralda  deigned  to  laugh.  The  rein- 
deer meat,  boiled  the  day  before,  was  fried  with  potatoes. 
This  with  tea  formed  an  excellent  meal  —  in  fact,  Ole 
said  many  in  Lom  never  had  such  a  dimier. 

Our  gipsies  were  full  of  fun.  Zachariah  put  up  an 
impromptu  tent  with  two  of  our  tent  raniers  and  an 
Alpine  stock,  to  ishade  Ole  from  the  sun,  and  he  at  once 
fell  asleep.  Then  Zachariah  contrived  one  for  himself, 
which  was  taken  possession  of  by  Noah,  after  a  mimic 
battle.  Esmeralda  put  the  things  away,  and  all  took 
their  siesta,  while  we  made  two  sketches  and  entered 
up  our  diary.  At  twenty  minutes  to  four  our  party 
were  again  en  route  down  the  valley. 

The  donkeys  were  quickly  loaded.  Over  rough  uneven 
ground  we  descended  the  valley  until  we  were  below  the 
picturesque  Storbeatind  and  its  singular  glacier.*  Ole 
said  it  was  so  called,  and  that  the  Utladal  Elv  derived  its 
source  from  the  Gravdal  Vand.  The  river  from  this  sin- 
gular glacier  branched  into  many  streams.  Between  two 
sterile  steeps  the  glacier  narrows  in  its  course  and  falls 
abruptly  into  the  valley. 

Above  the  almost  straight  line  of  glacier  wall  we  saw 
an  isolated,  lofty,  peculiarly-shaped  mass  of  ice,  which- 
put  us  in  mind  of  one  of  the  ice  cliffs  in  the  Glacier  des 
Bossons  at  Mont  Blanc,  so  well  represented  by  Coleman 
in  his  "  Scenes  from  the  Snow  Fields,  or  the  Upper  Ice 

•  This  iininense  glacier  is  also  called  "  SmOrstaLben.*' 


380  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

World/'*  The  glacier  seemed  to  overhang  the  narrow 
valley.  The  approaching  night  added  to  its  picturesque 
effect,  t 

Ole  crossed  the  river  at  some  rocks  below.  Noah, 
Zachariah,  and  Esmeralda  crossed  with  the  donkeys.  They 
all  had  to  stand  a  thorough  drenching  of  their  legs  and 
feet  in  the  ice  cold-water  fresh  from  the  glacier.  Esme- 
ralda stood  it  manfully.  We  went  a  short  distance  below, 
and,  taking  off  our  trousers,  boots,  and  stockings,  waded 
through.  The  cold  was  intense.  As  we  came  up  with 
our  party,  they  had  just  seen  a  reindeer ;  it  was  coining 
towards  them,  and  was  quite  close  before  it  perceived 

*  "Scenes  from  the  Snow  Fields,  or  the  Upper  Ice  World  of  Mont 
Blanc/'  by  Edmund  T.  Coleman,  was  published,  at  the  cost  of  three 
guineas  each  copy,  by  Messrs.  Longman,  in  1859.  Mr.  Coleman,  who  is 
still  a  member  of  the  English  Alpine  Club,  has  since  extended  his  travels 
to  British  Columbia  and  California.  In  1868,  in  company  with  Messrs. 
Ogilvy,  Stratton,  and  Tennent,  he  finally  succeeded  in  making  the  first 
ascent  of  Mount  Baker,  and  planting  the  American  flag  on  its  highest  peak, 
which  he  named  "  Grant's  Peak,"  in  honour  of  the  President  of  the  United 
States.  Mount  Baker  is  10,613  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is  the 
most  northerly  of  the  great  cones  of  the  Cascade  range,  being  only  fourteen 
miles  from  the  boundary  line  dividing  America  from  English  possessions. 
Like  another  "  snowy  Olympus,"  it  towers  above  the  rest,  as  the  sentinel  of 
a  solitary  land.  The  justly  celebrated  and  successful  American  serial, 
"  Harper's  New  Monthly  Magazine,"  of  November,  1869,  page  793,  contains 
a  most  interesting  article,  entitled  "  Mountaineering  on  the  Pacific,"  by  Mr. 
Coleman,  with  numerous  engravings  from  Mr.  Coleman's  drawings,  de- 
scriptive of  his  successful  ascent.  Illustrations  and  a  paragraph  referring 
to  the  ascent  also  appeared  29th  June,  1872,  in  a  number  of  the  lUustraiid 
London  News, 

t  So  singular  was  the  appearance  of  the  ice  cliff,  rising  on  the  glacier 
and  towering  above  us  in  the  waning  light  of  a  Norwegian  sunmier's  eve, 
that  after  describing  it  to.an  Alpine  traveller  of  much  experience,  we  wrote 
to  our  guide,  and  the  following  extract  from  Ole's  letter,  dated  12th  Apnl, 
1872,  may  be  interesting  : — **  I  am  apt  to  think  that  the  Ice  Cliff,  which  I 
perfectly  well  remember,  consists  of  rock  on  the  side  we  did  not  see.  I  can 
hardly  believe  it  to-  be  entirely  of  ice.  It  certainly  seemed  so  to  us  from 
the  view  we  had  at  it ;  but  there  must  be  rock  on  the  other  side,  I  should 
think." 


VALLET  OF  RED  SANDSTONE.  381 

our  party  and  turned  again.  Zachatiah  gave  chase ;  but 
it  slowly  made  its  way  among  some  loose  rocks,  and  he 
lost  eight  of  it. 

The  t^k  was  now  extremely  rugged,  tortuous,  and 
steep  at  times.    We  had  several  streams  to  cross,  and 


made  our  way  with  difficulty.  In  crossing  one  narrow 
brook  Zachariah's  donkey,  which  was  very  sure  footed, 
slipped  back,  and  part  of  its  load,  containing  Ole's  things 
in  a  pig's  bristle  bag,  and  the  pocket  containing  Noah's 
blankets,  and  our  kettle  bag,  got  slightly  wet  before  we 
could  get  it  out. 
There  was  no  time  to  lose ;  on  we  went,  and  at  length 


382  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

we  came  to  a  very  interesting  steep  mountain  way  be- 
tween red  rocks.  Here  we  had  the  Red  Sandstone  forma- 
tion suddenly  appearing  near  mountains  of  gneiss.  The 
gipsies  had  hard  work  of  it.  Each  of  the  donkeys  had  to 
be  carefully  led,  and  the  loads  steadied.  Sometimes  the 
loads,  in  going  down  a  steep  descent,  would  slip  for- 
wards, and  in  ascending  would  get  nearly  over  the  animal's 
tail ;  so  that  the  load  had  to  be  readjusted.  We  did  the 
best  we  could  with  Ole's  impromptu  cruppers.  It  was 
hard  work  for  Esmeralda ;  but  we  relieved  her  as  much 
as  possible.  Ole  was  ever  at  hand  when  a  difficult}^ 
occurred 

We  must  say  that  our  gipsies  stuck  to  their  work 
bravely.  It  was  not  long  after  we  had  come  to  the  Red 
Sandstone  rocks,  that  the  Puru  Rawnee  slipped  backwards 
into  some  deep  boggy  ground.  It  was  impossible  to  avoid 
at  times  such  mishaps.  We  had  sometimes  no  choice, 
and  on  we  must  go.  Noah,  Ole,  and  Zachariah,  at  last, 
by  pushing  and  lifting  and  dragging,  got  it  out. 

Mephistopheles,  whose  loud  laugh  rang  amongst  the 
rocks,  was  ever  gay ;  but  his  laughter  became  wonder- 
fully like  poshavaben  (gip.,  false  laughter),  when  Ole  said, 
in  joke :  "  Master  Zakee,  we  shall  have  to  cross  the 
river  just  now." 

Night  was  rapidly  drawing  on,  and  we  had  not  yet 
reached  the  Utladal  Stol.  At  last  we  came  to  a  romantic 
reindeer  hunter's  cave.  It  had  a  narrow  entrance  in  the 
rocks  ;  no  outlet  for  the  smoke  from  the  inside  but  the 
entrance.  Traces  of  fire  remained,  and  we  noticed  marks 
on  a  bank  near  where  the  hunters  had  tried  their  rifles. 
We  had  only  time  to  explore  it,  and  make  a  hasty 
sketch. 


UTLADAL  8T0L.  383 

Shortly  afterwards,  just  at  dusk,  we  came  to  the  open 
ground  of  the  Utladal  Stol.  It  was  a  small  melancholy 
valley.  On  a  rise  of  ground,  a  short  distance  from  us, 
we  could  see  the  stol  or  soeter  built  of  loose  stones,  one 
story  high  with  one  window.  Somehow  the  stol  had  a 
dismal  deserted  appearance.  Some  cows  were  grazing 
near. 

We  were  close  to  the  river,  some  hillocks  covered 
with  low  bushes  only  intervening.  The  donkeys  were 
very  tired,  and  it  was  just  nine  o'clock.  Even  Noah  was 
out  of  sorts.  The  cows  rendered  the  camp  ground  far 
from  desirable.  There  was  no  time  for  much  choice,  or 
we  should  have  tried  some  other  ground  The  woman  of 
the  soeter  was  out,  so  that  we  could  not  have  cream 
porridge  as  intended.  A  small  boy  represented  the 
woman.  Our  tents  were  quickly  put  up.  Noah  said  he 
liked  places  where  you  could  see  plenty  of  people.  This 
was  the  only  camp  ground  we  had  disliked  through  our 
wanderinga  It  seemed  like  a  valley  where  a  dozen 
suicides  had  been  committed,  supplemented  by  an  un- 
discovered murder.  Though  the  influences  were  dull 
and  gloomy,  we  made  an  excellent  meal  of  tea  with 
fried  ham,  and  Ole  informed  us  that  the  woman  had 
returned,  and  we  could  have  "flodsgrod"  the  next 
morning. 

Ole,  in  answer  to  our  inquiries,  said  that  there  were 
no  fish  in  the  Utladals  Elv,  only  newts,  black-looking 
water  lizards,  sometimes  called  "  asgals,"  in  England 
**lacerta  palustris."  There  were  no  birds;  even  the 
"  philomela  lascinia,'*  or  one-headed  nightingale,  usually 
considered  a  foolish  bird  and  easily  caught,  was  not  fool 
enough  to  perch  in  this  Valley. 


\ 


384  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOB  WAY. 

Ole  retired  as  quickly  as  he  could  to  occupy  the  hed 
at  the  stol,  where  we  were  told  Messrs.  Boyson  and 
Harrison  had  stayed  one  night — we  do  not  say  slept, 
for  we  are  extremely  uncertain  whether  they  did  so. 

Notwithstanding  the  Romany  chaff — ^for  the  gipsies 
were  blowing  great  guns  during  tea,  and  pronoimced  the 
place  in  an  impressive  manner  to  be  **  mumply " — we 
got  an  excellent  night's  rest  in  our  comfortable  tent, 
lulled  quickly  to  sleep  by  the  rushing  waters  of  the 
Utladal  Elv. 

At  six  o'clock  we  were  performing  our  matutinal 
ablutions  on  the  banks  of  the  Utladals  Elv,  regardless  of 
the  newts,  who  might  be  staring  at  such  an  unusual 
visitor.  Then  we  had  a  consultation  with  Ole  about 
our  future  route.  On  reference  to  our  maps  and  a  cal- 
culation of  the  different  routes  to  be  followed,  it  seemed 
that  we  should  reach  Christiania  with  difficulty  at  the 
time  we  proposed.  We  sighed  for  a  double  summer  in 
such  a  splendid  country  for  mountaineering.  At  first 
we  thought  of  giving  up  our  visit  to  Morkfos;  then 
remembering  Captain  Campbell's  description  of  this 
magnificent  fall,  we  determined  it  must  be  visited,  even 
if  we  pushed  through  the  rest  of  the  journey  by  forced 
marches. 

Our  breakfast  of  "flodsgrod"  was  prepared  by  the 
woman  and  ready  at  eight  o'clock.  For  the  information 
of  our  readers,  we  will  describe  how  it  is  made.  Two 
quarts  and  a  half  of  beautiful  cream  were  boiled  by  the 
soeter  woman  in  an  iron  pot,  to  which  we  added  some  of 
our  barley  meal  carried  from  Elvsoeter.  This  was  mixed 
together  with  the  grod-stick,  and  carried  down  to  our 
tent.     The  flodsgrod  was  quite  sufficient  for  the  break- 


TnE  MUMPIY  VALLEY.  385 

fast  of  five  persons,  and  is  a  dish  highly  prized  l>y  the 
Norwegians,  being  eaten  without  the  addition  of  any- 
thing else.  It  is  very  rich ;  the  butter  from  the  cream 
floating  about  at  the  top  in  a  melted  state. 

The  two  quarts  and  a  half  of  cream  cost  us  one  mark 
twelve  skillings,  and  we  gave  the  woman  four  skillings, 
which  Ole  su^ested  as  quite  sufficient.  All  the  party 
excepting  perhaps  Ole,  preferred  the  ordinary  grod  with 
milk. 


The  woman  was  a  thick-set  strong  young  person  who 
lived  alone  at  tlie  soeter  with  her  little  boy.  She  had 
plenty  of  occupation ;  seventeen  cows  to  milk  every 
day,  besides  taking  care  of  seventeen  goats  and  twenty 
sheep. 

The  Utladal  Stol  was  built  with  loose  granite  stones, 
earth,  and  sods,  forming  one  long  low  building,  divided 
interiorly  into  three  compartments,  one  opening  into  the 
other  across  the  ground  floor.  They  had  hardened  mud 
floors.     The  second  room  contained  a  fire  hearth  and 


too  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

chimney  and  bed,  and  was  lighted  with  one  small 
window  which  did  not  open ;  the  compartment  was  used 
as  a  dairy.  There  were  three  ventilators  or  holes  in  the 
roof,  which,  by  the  aid  of  a  long  stick  attached  to  a 
square  piece  of  board,  could  be  lifted  or  closed  at  pleasure. 
The  Utladal  Stol  was  roofed  partly  with  turf  and  partly 
with  flat  stones.  In  the  Bergen  Stift  we  were  told  that 
the  soeters  are  called  "stols."  The  Utladal  Stol  was 
much  like  the  dwelling-houses  which  were  often  met 
with  formerly  in  the  wild  parts  of  Carnarvonshire  and 
other  counties  in  North  Wales.  In  Norway  the  stols  are 
not  used  as  dwellings  like  similar  buildings  were  in 
former  times  in  Wales.  They  are  only  occupied  for  a 
short  period  of  the  year  in  summer.  Two  guns,  for 
shooting  reindeer,  hung  from  the  roof  of  one  of  the 
rooms. 

We  were  glad  to  leave,  at  ten  o'clock,  this  melancholy 
part  of  the  valley,  which  is  between  the  Eaudals  Ho,  or 
Hill  of  the  Red  Valley,  and  the  Utladals  Axelen.  The 
donkeys  were  not  very  fresh,  and  ascended  slowly  the 
steep  ascent  from  the  stol.  Esmeralda's  donkey,  the 
Tarno  Rye,  was  rather  weak  at  starting.  The  Puru 
Rawnee  was  stronger,  but  its  back  was  a  little  sore. 
Our  cruppers  were  made  of  twisted  birch  twigs  wrapped 
with  a  piece  of  carpet.  Birch  twigs  are  used  for  a 
variety  of  purposes  in  Norway — crates,  net  baskets, 
hobbles,  cruppers,  fastenings  for  sails,  oars,  withes  for 
gates,  &c. 

Soon  afterwards  we  descended  the  other  side  of  the 
hill  towards  a  stream  called  the  Lille  Utladals  Elv.  The 
gipsies  called  it  a  "slem  drom."  Our  donkeys  made 
their  way  with  difficulty,  and  great  care  had  to  be  used 


THE  PUEU  RAWNEE'S  ESCAPE.  I^Sl 

to  keep  the  loads  in  place   and  the  donkeys  on  their 
legs. 

Reaching  the  rapid  waters  of  the  torrent  in  order  to 
avoid  the  deep  boggy  ground  on  its  bank,  we  were 
oBHged  to  go  upon  the  loose  stones  and  shelving  rocks  on 
the  brink  of  the  stream. 

In  reaching  the  river  the  Puru  Rawnee  had  fallen  twice, 
and  the  second  time  had  broken  our  tent  pole  into  two 
pieces.  Ole  and  ourselves  took  some  of  the  things  and 
carried  them  to  Ughten  the  weight. 

The  Utladals  Elv,  by  which  we  had  camped  the  previous 
night,  was  roaring  between  some  precipitous  rocks  just 
beyond,  and  flowed  into  the  stream  we  were  following. 
At  the  junction  we  had  to  cross  a  narrow  bridge  over 
the  Utladals  Elv. 

Some  sloping  sUppery  shelving  rocks  at  the  brink  of 
the  Lille  Utladals  Elv,  had  to  be  crossed  to  reach  the 
bridge  over  the  other  stream.  The  first  attempt  was 
made  with  the  Puru  Rawnee,  whose  legs  sUpped  from 
under  it,  and  sliding  down  the  slippery  rock  on  its  side, 
was  held  back  by  Noah  just  in  time  to  prevent  its  going 
into  the  river.  One  end  of  the  -pocket  was  already  in  the 
stream,  an4  the  Puru  Rawnee  and  our  baggage  upon  her 
in  another  minute  would  have  probably  been  carried  down 
the  rapid  torrent  and  lost.  Noah  succeeded  in  holding 
her  on  the  rock  till  we  got  some  of  the  baggage  unloosed. 
She  was  at  length  recovered,  and  the  other  donkeys  were 
afterwards  safely  guided  over  the  same  rock  to  the 
bridge. 

There  was  no  wading  at  this  part  of  the  Utladals  Elv. 
We  had  a  strong,  deep,  heavy  current  of  waters  rushing 
with  wild  impetuosity  under  the   overhanging   rocks. 

0  c  2 


388  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

High  above  the  foaming  waters,  a  narrow  frail  bridge, 
with  a  wicket  and  slight  hand  rail  on  each  side,  spanned 
the  river.      The  Utladals  Elv  formed  its  junction  just 
below  with  the  Lille  Utladals  Elv.    Ole  stepped  across 
the  bridge  with  I   don't    know  how  many  pounds  of 
baggage,  on  his  shoulder,  as  if  he  expected  the  whole 
cavalcade  to  follow  d  pas  de  chasseurs  de  Vincenne& 


CHAPTER  XXXrV. 

As  Cadnrds  approached,  he  ohserred  some  low  tenia,  and  in  a  few 
minntea  he  was  in  the  centre  of  an  encampment  of  gipriea.  He  waa 
for  a  moment  somewhat  dismayed  ;  for  he  had  heen  brought  np  with 
the  nsnal  tenor  of  these  wild  people ;  nevertheless,  he  was  not  unequal 
to  the  occaaion.  He  was  suxrounded  in  an  instant,  but  only  with 
women  and  childron  ;  for  gipsy  men  noTer  immediately  appear.  Th^ 
smiled  with  their  bright  oyes,  and  the  flames  of  the  watch  fire  threw  a 
lurid  ^ow  oyer  their  dark  and  fl*»lti«g  countenances ;  they  held  out 
their  practised  hands  ;  they  uttered  unintelligible,  but  not  unfriendly 
sounds. 

DiBRAXLi's  Vendia, 

A  DIFUCTTLT  CBOSBIKO — ^AGAIN  en  BOUTE^— BKOOADAL  BCBT£R->B<BT£R 
ACGOHHODATION  —  SPLENDID  BCENEBT— THE  BKOOADALS  ELY— THE 
MT8TEBI0US  BONE — ^MOUNTAIN  EXPLOBATION — THE  PACK  HOBSES— 
A  SLIPFEBT  FLOOB— HUSIO  IN  THE  8<ETEB— FLOESKEDAL  BTOL— THE 
MOBK  FOB— MAGNIFICENT  FALL— THE  CLIFF'S  EDGE— THE  IBIS— ALL 
PAT  AND  NO  COMFOBT— A  BEINDEEB  SHOT— THE  DE8EBTED  FAB1|— A 
MOUNTAIN  SHADOW. 

The  three  donkeys  looked  as  if  they  much  preferred 
remaimiig  where  they  were.  Esmeralda  said  we  should 
never  get  over, 

Noah  said  "  No  donkeys  can  go  over  such  places  as 
these,  sir." 

"  What  can  we  do  in  such  ways?" 

Even  Mephistopheles  had  not  quite  shaken  off  the 
gloom  of  our  last  camp,  and  looked  "  mumply."  We  did 
not  say  much. 

*'  There's  the  other  side.     They  must  go." 


TENT  LIFE  IN  NORIVAY. 


And  without  losing  more  time  we  all  set  to  work  and 
caiTicd  the  baggage  over.  Then  came  the  Tamo  Rye's 
turn  ;  Zsichariah  pulled  ut  itfl  head,  whilst  ouraelf  ami 


•,    OILIDIL. — RUTIVB  MNEKTS. 


Noah  pushed  behind,  and  forced  it  by  main  strength  up 
the  stones  to  the  wicket.  It  was  almost  over  the  cliff 
once,  but  we  both  laid  hold  of  a  hind  leg  each,  whilst 
Mephiatopheles  tugged  at  the  donkey's  head.    As  the  frail 


A  DIFFICVLT  CB088ING.  391 

bridge  shook  it  is  lucky  we  did  not  all  vanish  into  the 
chasm  below.  With  main  force  the  Tarno  Eye  was 
lifted  on  to  the  bridge,  and  finding  itself  there  quietly 
allowed  itself  to  be  led  by  Zachariah  and  Ole  to  the 
other  side. 

It  was  rather  expected  we  should  succeed  in  the  same 
way  with  the  other  two,  but  they  made  such  a  resolute 
fight  that  there  was  considerable  risk  of  losing  one  of  the 
donkeys  through  the  handrail  at  the  end  of  the  bridge. 

"  Bring  the  tether  rope,  Noah." 

We  then  proposed  to  noose  them  by  the  head,  and  so 
drag  them  over.  Noah  further  suggested  that  we  might 
double  the  rope  and  pass  it  round  the  donkeys  hind 
quarters.  It  was  a  good  idea  immediately  adopted.  The 
Puru  Rawnee  was  the  first.  Esmeralda  and  Zachariah  at 
the  ends  of  the  doubled  rope  across  the  bridge.  Ourself 
on  the  bridge  steadying  its  head.  Noah  and  01c  pushing 
behind. 

Sharp  was  the  contest,  first  at  the  stones  leading  to 
the  bridge,  then  at  the  light  rails  at  the  end  of  the 
bridge  which  shook  under  our  weight  as  the  donkey  re- 
sisted. Now  and  again  Esmeralda  pulled.  Mephi- 
stopheles  pulled,  and  the  Puru  Rawnee,  at  length,  sorely 
against  her  wiU,  was  dragged  over  the  bridge.*     The 

*  Exposed  to  the  heavy  BnowB  of  winter  and  t&e  stonns  of  each 
changing  season,  some  of  the  frail  bridges  which  span  the  mountain  torrent 
of  many  a  deep  and  narrow  gorge  are  very  insecure.  Many  districts  are 
remote,  and  the  bridges  seldom  used.  This  danger  to  traveUers  has  not 
escaped  the  attention  of  the  Norske  Turistforening.  A  melancholy  acci- 
dent occurred,  just  before  we  left  Norway,  to  a  young  gentleman  named 
Wright,  travelling  with  his  party  in  the  north-west  of  Norway.  AU  had 
safely  passed  across  a  wooden  bridge  but  his  sister.  She  was  afraid  to 
venture.  Her  brother  was  testing  the  stability  of  the  bridge  to  remove 
her  fears,  when  a  portion  gave  way.    The  tourist  fell  with  it  into  the 


392  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

Puru  Rye  was  also  soon  pulled  over  by  the  same 
method,  amid  much  laughter  fix)m  our  gipsies.  In  a  few 
minutes  the  donkeys  were  again  loaded. 

"What  is  the  name  of  the  bridge ?"  asked  we. 

"Lusehaug  Bro/'  said  Ole  as  we  pushed  along  the 
Utladals  Elv,  and  whilst  we  gradually  ascended  obliquely 
higher  above  the  Utladals  Elv,  so  the  Utladals  Elv 
seemed  to  sink  deeper,  and  deeper,  into  the  hidden 
recesses  of  a  bottomless  ravine.  In  a  short  time  we 
entirely  lost  sight  of  its  rapid  waters.* 

This  river  is  ultimately  joined  by  the  waters  from  the 
Morkfos.     After  winding  along  the  hill  side  we  reached  \ 
a  sort  of  upper  plateau  at  the  foot  of  the  Skogadal. 

Near  the  Skogadals  Elv  are  two  soeters  some  short 
distance  apart,  on  the  banks  of  the  Elv,  whose  swift  ,' 
course  is  soon  lost  down  the  precipitous  steeps  which 
abruptly  fall  from  the  plateau  to  the  dark  narrow 
ravine  below.  Halting  at  a  short  distance  from  the 
Skogadal  soeters,  a  fire  was  lighted,  and  we  had  fried 
bacon  and  potatoes  and  tea  for  dinner.  Until  we  had 
another  tent  pole  it  was  impossible  to  pitch  our  tent 
Shortly  after  dinner  it  poured  with  rain,  but  our  baggage 
was  all  safely  covered  with  our  siphonia  waterproof. 
Ole  showed  his  ready  skill  by  cutting  down  a  small 
birch  tree  in  the  wood  just  above  us,  which  he  shaped  out 
with  his  hunting  knife  to  the  proper  size  and  length,  and 
then  cut  holes  sufficiently  large  for  our  tent  raniers.  A 
very  good  substitute  Ole  made.  We  have  it  now,  after  all 

torrent  below,  aiid  lost  his  life.    We  were  told  he  was  afterwards  buried 
at  Bergen. 

*  The  Nurwcglim  word  «Elv"  signifies  a   river;   and  "Aa"  means  \ 
arivn.et 


8K0GADAL  8(ETEB.  393 

the  rough  work  of  our  remaining  campaign.     There  was 

a  slight  cessation  of  rain,  during  which  the  tents  were 

pitched.     We  were  delighted  with  our  camping  ground. 

All  were   pleased  with  it.     It  was  certainly  a  wild, 

secluded,  and  beautiful  spot.     There  was  the  pleasing 

reflection  that  we  were  at  home  in  our  pleasant  camp.  No 

care,  no  trouble,  no  sleeping  in  soeter  beds  in  a  suffocating 

close   atmosphere,  or  lying  on  mud  floors,  slimy  with 

spilt  milk  and  damp  moisture.     No  anticipation  of  fleas, 

with  the  certainty  of  such  anticipation  being  realized  to 

the  fullest  extent  of  human  endurance.     Then  there  are 

floating  visions  as  to  the  number  and  variety  of  people 

who  have  previously  slept  in  those  beds.     Some  idea  may 

be  formed  of  soeter  life  by  the  following  extract  of  recent 

personal  experience,  related  by  Mr.  Murray  Browne : — 

"  I  prepared  for  the   night  by  pulling  on  my  second 

shirt   and  second  pair  of  trousers  over  that  which  I 

was  wearing  at  the  time.     1    then   lay   down   on   the 

floor  with  a  rug — a  sort  of  horse-cloth — ^under  me,  and 

a  rope  for  my  pillow.     My  brother  and  Saunders  slept 

on  a  sort  of  bench,  with   their   legs  stretched  under  a 

kind  of  shelf  which    served    as  the  only  table.     The 

women  and  children  occupied  the  only  bed,  and  Hans 

■ 

and  his   son   slept,  like  myself,  on   the   floor.     Before  i 

long  it  got  very  cold."  * 

On  the  right  of  the  Utladals  Elv  a  foaming  torrent 
falls  from  an  upper  plateau  of  the  Horungeme.     On  our  t 

left  we  could  see  the  Skogadals  Mv,  and  on  the  opposit43  \ 

side  the  Aurdals  Axelen,  forming  the  two  sides  of  the  [ 

valley  out  of  which  issues  the  Skogadals  Elv,  and  falls 
down  rocky  steeps  into  the  deep  gorge  of  the  UtladaL 

*  The  *' Alpine  Club  Journal,"  February,  1871. 


304  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

A  beautiful  green,  moss-covered,  rocky,  low  hill,  formed 
our  foreground  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Skogadak 
Elv.  As  you  look  down  the  deep  gorge  beyond,  two  hills 
rise  in  picturesque  outline,  one  with  a  very  steep, 
dark  summit.  The  white  foam  of  a  waterfall  contracts 
with  the  dark  rocks  of  the  mountain  down  which  it  falk 
In  the  far  distance  a  small  pointed  hill  stands  alone.  It 
is  far  down  the  gorge,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  For 
our  tea  we  had  grod  and  milk.  Ole  retired  to  the  soeter 
at  eight  o'clock,  and  as  it  rained  heavily  we  all  went  to 
bed.  When  we  retired  to  rest  on  the  mossy  turf ;  ve 
could  not  help  expressing  pity  for  the  unfortunate  people 
stoved  up  in  the  soeters.  Ole  said  it  would  probably  rain 
next  day,  but  if  fine  it  was  arranged  that  he  should  call 
us  up  at  three  o'clock  the  next  morning. 

It  rained  heavily  when  we  awoke  about  three  o'clock 
so  that  we  continued  our  repose.  Ole  called  us  at  a 
much  later  hour.  We  gave  him  out  of  our  tent,  matches, 
and  material  for  making  the  fire,  and  soon  joined  him. 
The  gipsies  also  were  up  and  stirring.  Esmeralda  soon 
managed  the  breakfast  service  from  her  kettle  bag,  which 
was  quite  equal  to  Pandora's  box  for  the  extraordinary 
quantity  and  variety  of  things  it  contained.  The  frokost 
consisted  of  fladbrod,  butter  and  tea.  The  day  was  dull 
and  cloudy.  We  could  hear  with  greater  distinctness  the 
roar  of  the  rising  waters  of  the  Skogadals  Elv.  This  was 
pleasant,  except  that  we  had  the  prospect  of  having  one 
or  two  of  our  donkeys  drowned  in  crossing  the  rapid 
waters. 

The  morning  gradually  cleared^  and  we  diligently 
wrote  up  our  notes  till  one  o'clock.  Esmeralda  then  an- 
nounced   our  mid-day  meal.      The  hobbenengree  had 


SPLENDID  SCENERY.  395 

boiled  some  of  Ole's  bacon  with  the  unfortunate  piece  of 
dried  meat  from  Holaker,  which  had  persistently  haunted 
our  soup  kettle  for  so  many  nules.  There  was  no  mis- 
taking it  as  Noah  pronged  it  out  with  a  fork,  and  suddenly 
let  it  fall  back  into  the  soup,  as  if  he  had  seen  the  ghost 
of  his  Uncle  Elijah. 

Although  not  in  our  arrangement  Ole  had  always  had 
his  meals  from  our  commissariat.  Ole  Rodsheim  was 
worthy  of  our  hospitality,  and  we  had  enough  to  spare. 
On  this  occasion  Ole  said  he  had  shared  all  our  meals, 
and  we  might  as  well  consume  the  bacon,  and  three 
loaves  of  bread  he  had  brought  with  him.  As  to  our  tea 
Ole  had  acquired  such  a  taste  for  it,  that  we  doubt 
whether  he  will  ever  again  be  able  to  do  without  it. 
Our  meal  consisted  of  soup,  boiled  bacon,  the  mysterious 
piece  of  dried  meat,  potatoes  and  fladbrod. 

When  we  looked  over  the  maps  after  dinner  with  Ole, 

we  could  not  help  being  astonished  at  the  Stendue  and 

wonderful  extent  of  wild  mountain    terrain    scarcely 

explored  by  the    Alpine   Club.      What  a  network  of 

deep  gorges,  glens,  valleys,  lakes,  and  glaciers,  out  of 

which  rise  hundreds  of  steep  and  rugged  peaks ;  very 

many  have  never  been  ascended  and  are  scarcely  known. 

Three  lakes  were  pointed  out  by  Ole  as  having  been 

purchased  by  English  gentlemen ;  the  Eus  Vand,  the 

Heimdals  Vand,  and  the  Sikkildals  Vand.     Some  of  the 

lakes  are  of  considerable  extent,  as  the  Bygdin  Vand, 

which  Ole  said  was  about  seventeen  and  a  half  miles 

long.     The  Gjendin  Vand  and  the  Tyen  Vand  were  also 

large  lakes  easily  reached  from  near  our  tent.    After  a 

careful  inspection  of  our  maps,  we  decided  to  take  Ole 

early  the  next  morning  and  visit  the  Mork  Fos,  leaving 


306  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

the  gipsies  in  care  of  the  camp,  and  returning  in  the 
evening.  A  reconnaissance  was  made  up  the  Skogadals 
valley  above  the  soeters  to  find  a  crossing  for  our 
donkeys;  the  usujJ  ford  was  too  deep.  Noah  said 
Zaehariah  said  no  donkey  could  stand  with  water  above 
his  knees.  The  place,  at  last  selected,  was  certainly 
better  for  our  purpose,  but  we  were  not  very  sanguine. 
Ole  said  a  carrier  was  expected  at  the  soeter  that  evening, 
and  some  help  might  be  obtained. 

It  waa  a  beautiful  evening  after  the  rain.     The  view 
up  the   Skogadal  (wooded  valley)    with    Melkadalstin- 
derue  (the  peaks  of  the  Milk  valley)  in  the  distance,  and 
across  the  river  the  Aurdals  Axelen,   which   Ole  said 
meant  the  shoulder  of  the  stony  valley,  completed  a 
scene  long  to  be  remembered ;  the  sides  of  the  Skogadal 
valley  being  covered  in  places  with  birch  wood,  has  not 
the  too  sterile  and  desolate  appearance  of  some  valleys 
through   which    we   had   passed.     About   five   o'clock, 
when  we  were  having  our  grod  and  milk  for  tea,  the 
expected   carrier   and  his   boy    were   seen   coming  up 
the  mountain  track  below  our  tents.     The  horses  shied 
at   first   at    our    camp,    but    Noah    went    down    and 
led    one,   and    they  passed    without    difficulty.     Each 
horse  can  carry  about  eight  vaage,  rather  more   than 
3    cwt.,   each  Norwegian  vaage    being  38   lbs.      One 
of  the   carrier's  horses  was  a  powerful  animal,  larger 
than  the  Norwegian  pony.     Two  strong  wooden  barrels, 
with  lids,  are  slung  on  each  side  a  wooden  frame  or 
saddle  furnished  with  iron  rings  and  a  leather  crupper. 
The  barrels  are  two  feet  two  inches  long,  by  eleven  and 
three-quarter  inches  wide,    and   one   foot  eight  inches 
deep.     The  weight  is  well  balanced,  and  the  fastenings 


A  SLIPPERY  FLOOB.  397 

very  strong  and  well  adapted  to  stand  the  rough  stony 
tracks  of  the  Norwegian  ^jelda.  An  arrangement  waa 
quickly  made  for  the  carrier  to  take  Ole  and  ourself 
across  the  Skogadals  Ely  the  next  morning,  and  bring  us 
back  in  the  evening,  for  half  a  mark  each.  It  rained 
heavily  after  tea.  About  nine  o'clock,  when  it  was  over, 
we  took  Noah  and  Zachariah  to  the  upper  sceter  to  give 
the  people  some  music.  Ole  was  there,  the  carrier,  and 
his  son,  and  the  sceter  women.  As  we  came  in  we 
made  our  ddbut  in  the  Skogadal  world  of  music  by 
slipping  on  the  uneven  mud  floor  of  the  first  room,  and 
falling  down,  nearly  upsetting  the  sceter  woman's  bucket 
of  milk,  who  was  milking,  and  if  we  had  not  been 
very  quick  completely  smashing  our  guitar.  Our 
satisfaction  at  having  rescued  our  guitar  which  had  been 
carried  without  injury  by  Esmeralda  so  many  miles, 
quite  healed  any  bruises  we  sustained  No  bones  broken ; 
we  were  soon  up,  and  in  the  second  room.  The  violin, 
guitar,  and  tambourine,  soon  waked  up  the  stillness  of 
the  night.  We  must  say  that  no  artistes  of  the  greatest 
celebrity  could  have  had  a  more  pleased  and  admiring 
audience.  As  we  retired  we  felt  quite  giddy  from  the 
extreme  closeness  of  the  atmosphere  of  the  sceter.  Noah 
had  also  carried  off  two  fleas ;  so  much  the  better  for 
Ole.  The  night  was  damp  and  windy  as  we  sought  our 
camp  and  went  to  bed. 

Early  awake,  we  were  completing  our  toilette  to  the 
music  of  snoring  gipsies  when  Ole  came.  Half-past  five, 
grod  and  milk  formed  our  breakfast,  Ole  adding  to  his 
own  some  myse  ost,  to  qualify,  as  he  said,  the  milk. 
The  carrier  came  with  one  of  his  horses ;  we  both 
mounted  and  forded  the  Skogadals  Elv,  and  turning  the 


398  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

horse  back  he  returned   across  riderless  to  his  master. 
Commencing  our  expedition  at  seven  o'clock,  we  made 
our  way  for  some  distance  through  a  large  birch  wood, 
and  at  length  descended  into  the  valley  called  Aurdal  * 
This  part  of  the  narrow  valley  which  we  crossed  is  com- 
pletely full  of  enormous  stones  piled  one  upon  another 
in  wild  chaos.     Ole  called  the  valley  Urdal  or  Aurdal. 
All  was  wild  sterility,  and  the  separate  detached  blocks 
of  loose  stone  were  often  so  enormous,  that  it  was  slowly, 
and  with  diflficulty  we  made  our  way  to  the  opposite 
side.    A  stream   flowed  far  beneath   the  loose  stones 
tossed    and  piled  above    its    course   in   extraordinary 
masses.    Its  waters  were  at  times  obscured  and  hidden 
by  the  blocks  of  stone  of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  piled  in 
heterogeneous  confusion.    When  we  left  this  stony  valley 
we  continued  our  route  along  the  sloping  sides  of  the 
mountain  beyond,  to  the  left  of  the  deep  gorge  of  the 
Utladals  Elv.   At  about  eleven  o'clock  in  the  forenoon  we 
reached  the  "  Fleskedal  Soeter."     The  stol  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  a  rise  of  open  mountain  ground  near  a  clear 
stream   of  water.     Leaving  our  things  with  the  soeter 
woman,  we  descended  through  a  steep  forest  of  birch 
and  firs,  and  at  last  crossing  a  new  bridge  over  a  wild 
torrent  soon  afterwards  reached  another  stol  or  soeter 
which  was  closed.     This  was  the  Vettismark  forest  and 
soeter.     Ole  said  that  this  forest  was  renowned  for  its 
large   trees.     Eound  the  soeter  the   trees   were  partly 
V   cleared  ;  some  were  left  scattered  here  and  there.     The 
whole  scene  reminded   us   of  a   sheep   station    in  an 
Australian  forest.     From   this  picturesque  plateau   we 
had  splendid  views   of  some    of  the    summits   of  the 

*  Sometimes  spelt  "  Uradol."    • 


f 


THE  MORKFOS,  399 

Horungeme  mountains.  The  scene  was  beautiful  in  the 
sunshine  of  mid- day;  it  made  us  wish  to  linger  there 
for  ever.  What  a  spot  for  a  tent.  Crossing  the  narrow 
stream  near  the  soeter,  and  passing  through  a  lovely 
forest  view,  we  were  soon  near  the  edge  of  the  hanging 
cliff,  over  which  the  narrow  river  we  had  crossed,  falls 
in  one  straight  and  almost  perpendicular  column  of 
water,  not  less  than  800  feet — we  thought  it  more.  In 
a  note  to  Captain  Campbell's  interesting  article  on  the 
Morkfos,  published  in  the  "  Alpine  Journal  "  of  August 
1870,  it  seems  that  the  height  of  the  fall  is  about 
1000  feet.* 

We  refer  our  readers  to  this  article  for  an  excellent 
description  of  this  waterfall,  and  especially  to  the  en- 
graving there  given  of  the  fall,  which  is  from  an  original 
sketch  by  Captain  Campbell. 

The  sun  shone  high ;  the  sky  was  Italian  blue.  Ole 
produced  his  rope  ;  carefully  securing  it  round  our  body, 
he  steadied  himself  at  a  small  tree  and  held  the  other 
end  of  the  rope.  Then  we  advanced  to  the  edge  of 
the  hanging  cliff.  The  wild  heath  formed  an  arched 
and  matted  roof  above  the  far  distant  rocks  in  the 
abyss  below.  As  we  cautiously  leant  over.  Nature  broke 
upon  us  in  all  the  light  of  her  splendid  magnificence. 
Who  can  doubt  the  power  of  a  great  Creator  who 
views  such  scenes  ?  We  could  have  stayed  there  never- 
tiring  to  eternity.  As  we  seemed  to  catch  as  it  were  the 
broken  ground  with  our  legs,  almost  suspended  in  mid 
air,  we  could  not  divest  ourselves  of  the  thought  that 

•  A  description  of  this  fall,  with  engraving,  is  also  given  in  Captain 
Campbell's  concise  and  useful  work,  "  How  to  see  Norway,"  published  by 
Messrs.  Longman  and  Co, 


400  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOB  1^ AT. 

Bome  of  the  finest  scenes  in  Nature  are  often  oyerlooked. 
Had  the  shelving  cliff  given  way  we  were  secured  by  a 
rope,  but  we  must  say  our  position  would  have  beea 
unpleasant.  The  cliffs  on  either  side  stand  abruptly  out 
and  are  overhanging,  so  that  it  is  difficult  to  get  a  good 
view  of  the  fall  from  above,  except  at  the  point  we 
were  looking  over.  The  rocks  below,  which  receive  the 
waters  of  the  fall,  for  some  distance  upwards  are  ahnost 
black. 

When  we  retired  from  the  cliff's  edge,  we  roped  Ole 
and  he  had  a  similar  view.  Notwithstanding  all  that 
had  been  said  by  Captain  Campbell,  the  Morkfos  far  sur- 
passed our  expectations  in  height,  volume  of  water,  and 
picturesque  beauty.  There  is  no  drawback.  All  accessories 
are  perfect  Mountain  outline,  rock,  tree,  forest — all 
that  surround  the  fall,  rival  it  in  their  several  perfectiona 
of  harmonious  beauty.  Reluctantly  we  must  say,  that 
even  the  Sjukan  fos  and  its  romantic  association  of  the 
"Lovers"  or  ** Marie  stein"  is  scarcely  equal  to  the 
Morkfos.*  Other  lovers  of  nature  who  visit  this  wild 
scene  may  probably  pass  a  decisive  opinion  either  to  coii- 

*  When  we  visited  the  Bjukan  fos  Bome  years  aince  we  were  certainly 
under  the  impression  that  the  name  applied  to  a  rock  on  the  face  of  the 
precipice  above  the  fall,  where  the  lover  slipped  at  the  first  meeting  after  a 
long  absence,  and  was  lost  in  the  abyss  below.  The  name  may  probably  be 
derived  from  the  footpath,  which  at  that  time  was  very  similar  to  a  ladder, 
and  Williams,  in  his  work  '<  Through  Norway  with  a  Knapeack,*'  calls  it 
<^  Marie  Stige,"  saying  in  a  note,  "  stige  "  is  the  Dansk  and  Norsk  for  ladder ; 
and  placing  the  article  *' en"  at  the  end  of  the  word,  as  is  usual,  it  becomes 
stigen,  the  ladder,  hence  the  local  name,  '^  Marie  Stigen,"  the  Hair's 
Ladder,  which  most  English  writers  have  misunderstood  or  Germanized  into 
'^  Marie  Stein,''  or  Mary's  Bock  ;  others  spell  it  '*  Marie  Stegen,"  wliicli, 
translated,  signifies  Mary's  try,  Mary's  roast  meat«  In  Murray  it  is 
called  Marl  Stien.  The  legend  has  associated  a  romantic  interest  with 
the  Rjukan  fos. 


THE  IBIS.  401 

firm    or  reverse  ours.     Both  falls  have  their  separate 
beauty. 

The  Valley  of  the  Aardal  below,  is  all  the  most  enthusi- 
astic lover  of  nature  could  desire.*  Opposite  to  us  were  the 
magnificent  steeps  of  the  Maradaktinder.  The  waterfall 
roaring  down  its  sides,  was  only  dwarfed,  by  its  more 
splendid  rival  the  Morkfos.  The  fall  opposite  is  the 
Maradals  elv  fos.  As  we  watched  it,  a  beautiful  iris  of 
red,  yellow,  and  blue,  hovered  above  the  foaming  waters, 
the  only  one,  we  had  ever  seen. 

Before  we  left,  we  contemplated  the  deep  valley  of  the 
Aardal,  and  its  wooded  sides.  Trees  covered  the  sunmiit 
of  the  cliffs,  on  either  side  the  Morkfos.  One  mountain 
ash,  bad  caught  its  roots  in  a  cleft,  and  overhung  in  mid- 
air.    Scotch  firs  crowned  the  rocks  above. 

We  left  at  a  quarter  to  one.  Never  shall  we  forget  a 
small  patch  of  golden  moss,  formiug  a  miniature  island  in 
a  small  forest  tarn ;  its  resplendent  colour  in  the  glowing 
sun.  Near  the  soeter  in  the  Vettismark  forest,  a  few 
large  trees  scattered  near,  were  without  bark,  and  dead. 
The  Vettismark  Soeter,  and  the  Fleskedal  Soeter,  Ole  said, 
belonged  to  the  same  owner.  The  ascent  to  the  Fles- 
kedal Soeter  was  very  steep,  but  we  reached  it  at  five 
minutes  past  two  o'clock. 

Our  middags  mad,  on  the  banks  of  the  stream,  near 
the  Fleskedal  Soeter,  consisted  of  cold  bacon,  fladbrod,  a 
box  of  sardines,  and  kage  brod,  or  ovens  brod  (bread 
baked  in  an  oven),  which  we  had  brought  with  us.  Ole 
boiled  our  water  at  the  soeter,  and  we  had  two  pannikins 
of  tea.     The  Fleskedal   Soeter   is   a  new  soeter.     One 

*  It  may  be  well  to  note  that  the  Utladal  Ely  and  the  Aardal  Ely  are 
the  same  zivei ;  and  the  Morkfos  is  sometimes  called  the  Vetje  fos. 

D  D 


4u2  TENT  LIfE  IN  NORWAY. 

woman,  and  some  children,  were  staying  there.  The 
sc3eter  is  built  of  wood,  and  of  the  usual  size.  We  paid 
the  woman  four  skillings,  for  allowing  Ole  to  boil  our 
water  at  the  soeter. 

It  appears  that  Messrs.  Boyson  and  Harrison  stayed  at 
the  Fleskedal  Soeter  one  night,  with  three  other  gentlemen 
going  to  Lyster.  We  were  told  that  for  one  bed,  for  two 
of  the  party,  the  other  three  sleeping  as  they  could,  and 
for  some  fladbrod,  butter,  and  milk,  they  were  charged  two 
specie  dollars,  or  nine  shillings  English  money,  when  they 
left.  An  English  gentleman,  accompanied  by  a  reindeer 
hunter,  came  to  the  Fleskedal  Sceter  the  day  before  we 
arrived,  and  stayed  all  night.  Early  in  the  morning 
he  had  shot  a  reindeer  in  the  mountains. 

The  English  sportsman  returned  to  the  soeter  for  a 
pony,  but  could  not  get  one,  and  went  to  obtain  one  some- 
where else.  He  said  he  should  reserve  the  reindeer's  skin  for 
himself,  and  send  the  carcass  to  a  friend  at  Bergen.  Ole 
said  he  would  probably  have  to  pay  two  or  three  dollars, 
and  if  he  had  sent  it  down  to  Skogadals  Sceter,  the 
carrier  would  have  met  the  steamer  for  Bergen,  and  it 
would  have  gone  at  a  much  cheaper  rate. 

Leaving  Fleskedal  Soeter  at  about  four  o'clock,  we  had 
a  delightful  walk  along  the  mountain  slopes.  At  one 
point,  in  the  depths  of  the  valley  below,  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Utladal  Elv,  we  could  see  the  Bondegaard  of 
Vormelid.  A  deep  dark  shadow  seemed  to  hang  about  it 
in  the  far  distance  below.  What  a  solitary  abode.  Few 
footsteps  would  ever  pass  its  threshold.  Imagine  the 
winter  solitude  of  this  homestead.  The  silence  broken 
by  the  wolfs  howl.  Ole  said  the  bears  had  destroyed  the 
cattle  of  the  former  owner.     He  waa  nearly  ruined.    The 


A  MOUNTAIN  SHADOW,  403 

bridge  acro8s  the  torrent  was  broken  down,  and  the  house 
deserted.  Ole  signaled  as  we  approached  the  Skogadals 
Elv.  The  gipsies  were  soon  on  the  alert  to  give  us  wel- 
come. The  carrier  brought  two  horses,  and  we  crossed 
the  river.     Our  tents  were  reached  at  seven  o'clock. 

The  gipsies  appeared  to  have  slept  most  of  the  day. 
They  had  not  even  quarrelled.  We  began  to  think  they 
must  be  ill,  until  we  found  they  had  diligently  inspected 
nearly  every  single  article  we  possessed,  which  were 
afterwards  carefully  arranged  upside  down.  We  decided 
to  move  very  early  the  next  day,  and  Ole  had  the  grod 
at  once  prepared  for  breakfast  the  next  morning. 

Before  retiring  to  rest,  we  strolled  on  the  turf  near  our 
tents,  and  watched  the  secluded  valley  by  moonlight. 
Vast  ranges  of  snowy  mountains  were  before  us  silvered 
by  the  moon.  As  we  looked  down  the  valley,  we  could 
not  help  observing,  a  large  shadowed  outline,  representing 
the  figure  of  a  woman,  singularly  distinct,  and  formed  by 
the  conformation  of  a  hill  above  the  ravine.  It  was 
Sunday,  and  no  music  was  given  at  the  soeters. 


D  t)  2 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

''  That  gipey  grandmother  has  all  the  appearance  ol  a  sowanee"  (sor- 
ceress).— ''All  the  appearance  of  one!"  said  Antonio;  ''and  is  she 
not  really  one  ?  She  knows  more  crabhed  thingSy  and  crabbed  words 
than  all  the  errate  betwixt  here  and  Catalonia  ;  she  has  been  amon^ 
the  wild  MoorSy  and  can  make  more  drows,  poisons,  and  philtres  than 
any  one  alive.  She  once  made  a  kind  of  paste,  and  persuaded  me  to 
taste,  and  shortly  after  I  had  done  so,  mj  soul  departed  from  my 
body,  and  wandered  ihrough  horrid  forests  and  mountains,  amidst 
monsters  and  duendes,  during  one  entire  night.  She  learned  many 
things  amidst  the  Corahai,  which  I  should  be  glad  to  know." 

Sorrow's  Bible  in  Spain. 

THE  MBISaBIE — WB  CROSS  A  RIVER  —  THE  SLIPPERY  ROCK  — AK 
ACTIVE  aUIDE  —  THE  CARRIER'S  AID — THE  LAME  HORSE— MELKE- 
DALSTINDERNE  —  THE  STONY  WAY  —  THE  NEDREVAND — OLE'b  NIGHT 
QUARTERS — THE  LAKE  BY  MOONLIGHTS—EARLY  RISING — EISBOD  OK 
THE  BYGDIN  LAKE — THE  POET's  HOUSE — VINJB  THE  POET  — THE 
POETICAL  MORTGAGE — PLEASANT  ACQUAINTANCE — OLD  NORWEGIA^f 
POETRY — THE  REINDEER  HUNTER — ^ESMERALDA  CONDONED. 

At  twenty  minutes  past  two  o'clock  we  were  up. 
Calling  Ole  and  our  gipsies,  we  had  our  grod  and  milk 
for  breakfast.  Our  expenses  at  Skogadal  amounted  to 
nine  marks  eighteen  skillings,  as  follows — 

fft,  t, 

2  lbs.  butter 2    0 

Cheese 0    6 

36  cakes  of  fladbrod 2     6 

6  cans  milk,  9  skillings  per  can      .        .        .     .  1  21 

8  lbs.  barley  meal 18 

Sceter  women 0  13 

Carrier  crossing  river 10 

9     6 


WE  CROSS  A  RIVER  405 

Some  little  delay  occurred  in  getting  the  carrier  and 
his  horse.  He  was  the  husband  of  the  woman  of  one  of 
the  soeters.  She  was  a  tall  powerful  woman,  with  a  red 
face,  and  sharp  temper,  much  older  than  himself.  It  was 
whispered  that  he  had  married  her  for  her  money.  If  he 
had,  she  had  certainly  the  best  of  the  bargain.  Our  tents 
and  heavy  baggage,  were  soon  packed  up  in  a  meisgrie  or 
crate,  and  slung  up  on  the  wooden  packsaddle  of  the 
carrier's  horse.  The  Norwegian  meisgrie  is  a  capital  con- 
trivance. It  is  a  kind  of  network  made  of  birch  twigs, 
which  laces  up  with  a  long  tie,  one  foot  eleven  inches  long. 
It  is  very  strong  and  very  light.  Wishing  the  soeter  women 
farewell,  and  they  seemed  sorry  to  lose  ns,  especially  the 
music,  we  soon  reached  the  river. 

Our  people  and  baggage  were  soon  forded  across.  We 
remained  behind  with  our  three  donkeys,  having  a 
tether  rope  stretching  across  the  river.  Fastening  it  with 
a  noose  roimd  the  Puru  Eawnee's  neck,  she  was  first 
pulled  across,  plunging  and  struggling  to  the  other  bank. 
The  Tamo  Eye  was  assisted  through  the  stream  in  a  similar 
manner.  The  Puro  Rye  saved  us  the  trouble  by  jumping 
into  the  stream,  to  follow  his  companions.  There  was  a 
loud  outcry  by  the  gipsies  that  he  would  be  drowned, 
but  he  fought  through  the  torrent  famously,  and  reached 
the  other  bank  in  safety. 

The  view  was  beautiful  as  we  looked  up  the  SkogadaL 
The  Melkadalstind  towered  above  the  mountain  ranges, 
which  closed  the  upper  portion  of  the  valley,  leaving  no 
outlet,  but  a  stony  col  on  the  distant  ridge.  The  occa- 
sional wooded  sides  of  the  valley,  with  firs,  birch,  and 
dark  foliaged  alder,  relieved  the  valley  from  all  appear- 
ance of  desolation.     The  white  foam  of  two  torrents,  and 


TENT  LJFB  IN  NORWAY. 


occasional  patches  of  snow,  on  the  mountain  ades,  at  die 
head  of  the  valley,  contrasted  well  with  wooded  slopes 
which  margined  the  winding  streanL 

We  had  now  crossed  the  river,  and,  following  over  the 


<   TBR  VALLIT   OF  SIfiOADU,   SKHOASILS   ■ 


broken  ground  of  its  right  bank,  we  at  length  reached 
the  head  of  the  pleasant  valley  of  Skogadal.  Again  we 
had  to  cross  the  Skogadals  Elv,  now  a  narrow  impetuous 
torrent,  rushing  forth  from  a  glacier,  at  some  distance  to/ 
our  right.  '^ 


THE  SLIPPEBY  BOCK.  407 

The  carrier  with  his  strong  horse,  for  which  he  wanted 
sixty  dollars,  crossed  easily  enough.  Noah  and  Zachariah 
managed  somehow  to  get  to  the  other  side  with  the 
donkeys.  The  Skogadals  Elv  was  now  not  very  wide, 
but  rapid,  and  over  our  knees,  in  the  middle  of  the  stream, 
which  was  icy  cold  Never  shall  we  forget  Ole  in  a 
narrow  part  of  the  stream,  out  of  which  rose  two  rocks, 
balancing  on  one,  whilst  he  steadied  Esmeralda,  who 
had  jumped  on  the  other.  The  torrent  narrowed  in  its 
course,  swift,  and  impetuous,  occasionally  laved  with  its 
flowing  waters  Esmeralda's  boots,  as  she  stood  on  the 
slippery  rock,  preparing,  with  Ole's  assistance,  to  make 
another  jump.  It  was  a  question  for  some  minutes 
whether  Esmeralda  would  not  lose  her  foothold,  and  drag 
Ole  after  her,  into  the  foaming  waters. 

The  scene  was  charming,  the  reindeer  himter  on  one 
rock,  Esmeralda  on  the  other,  both  hand  in  hand. 
Balanced  above  the  flowing  waters;  sometimes  we  / 
thought  Esmeralda  was  slipping  backwards,  now  with  / 
Ole's  assistance  she  has  recovered  herself.  Another  jump 
across  the  foaming  waters ;  Esmeralda  hesitates.  A  word 
of  encouragement,  Esmeralda  jumps.  She  has  reached 
Ole's  rock,  she  balances  again ;  thanks  to  Ole,  by  another 
hasty  spring,  she  is  safe  on  the  other  side. 

Soon  joining  our  party,  we  ascended  a  winding  stony 
track  from  the  Skogadal,  passing  through  a  col,  we 
reached  a  second  long  wild  valley,  wild  and  stony  in 
the  extreme,  here  and  there  a  glacier  above.  The  fine 
peak  of  the  "Melkedals"  above  us.  Sometimes  we 
skirted  the  margin  of  small  sheets  of  water,  and  lonely 
mountain  tarns.  Over  this  long  reach  of  broken  rock  we 
made  our  way  slowly ;  at  last  we  again  ascended  towards 


408  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

another  col,  to  reach  apparently  another  valley  heyond. 
We  had  nearly  reached  the  top  of  the  ascent  towards  the 
next  valley,  when  the  carrier  suddenly  halted,  and  Ole 
said  he  wished  to  take  something  to  eat.  Our  carrier  was 
a  quiet,  spare,  muscular,  and  not  bad-looking  man ;  we 
had  noticed  him  when  we  crossed  the  river ;  no  shouting, 
bustle,  bewilderment,  or  gesticulation,  he  simply  did 
quietly  what  he  thought  best  If  it  did  not  succeed, 
and  we  had  all  been  drowned,  it  is  doubtful  whether  he 
would  have  moved  a  muscle  of  his  countenance.  Yet  he 
was  not  a  man  without  feeling,  and  would  probably  have 
felt  all  the  more.  All  was  regulated  to  one  steady  pace 
for  horse  and  man,  and  to  save  the  world  he  would  not 
have  gone  slower  or  faster.  A  fire  was  made  with  the 
roots  of  stunted  juniper,  and  our  water  boiled  for  tea. 
Our  carrier  had  only  some  fladbrod,  and  raw  old  bacon 
for  his  dinner.  From  our  commissariat  we  supplemented 
it  with  tea,  and  brandy  and  water.  It  was  soon  found 
that  when  we  had  halted  at  twelve  o'clock,  he  considered 
his  bargain  ended,  and  that  he  was  entitled  to  his  dollar, 
and  an  extra  mark  for  his  second  horse,  to  cross  the 
Skogadals  river.  It  was  thought  we  should  have  had  his 
services  for  the  best  part  of  the  day. 

Ole  asked  our  carrier  to  give  us  another  hour  which 
would  make  what  he  considered  the  value  of  the  dollar, 
but  the  man  would  not  go  any  farther ;  an  extra  mark 
would  not  tempt  him.  He  had  come  eleven  miles ;  one 
of  his  horse's  shoes  was  loose.  Our  gipsies  thought  he 
should  have  continued  until  one  o'clock.  Lending  the 
man  our  hammer,  and  axe,  to  fasten  the  horse  shoe  on, 
which  was  much  too  small,  we  paid  him  his  six  marks. 
Advancing  towards  us  in  a  solemn  maimer,  he  shook 


MELKEDALS,  NEDRE  VAND.  409 

hands^  and  with  his  horse  rather  lame,  he  went  off  at  the 
same  regulated  steady  pace.  If  intcUigence  had  been 
suddenly  brought  that  the  Skogadals  soeter,  had  been 
burnt  down,  and  his  taU  wife  in  it,  we  do  not  think  he 
would  have  gone  one  step  faster  towards  the  scene  of 
conflagration. 

Noah !  Zachariah !  let  the  donkeys  be  loaded.  Esmeralda 
clears  oilr  dinner  service  into  the  kettle  bag.  Ole  is  up 
and  stirring ;  we  are  soon  off  at  ten  minutes  past  one 
o'clock.  Our  party  was  soon  over  the  ridge ;  a  long 
stony  valley  lay  before  us  beneath  the  rugged  steeps  of 
the  Melkedabtindeme.  The  donkeys  did  their  best 
with  their  loads ;  the  lift  with  the  carrier's  horse  in  the 
morning,  had  been, very  useful.  Ole  had  evidently 
resolved  to  make  a  determined  push  towards  Eisbod. 
Many  swift,  but  shallow  streams  coming  from  the  glaciers 
above,  were  crossed  without  difficulty.  With  some  perse- 
verance the  Melkedals  vand*  is  reached ;  it  is  called  the 
cevre  vand  or  upper  lake.  A  still  dark  lake,  nothing 
but  masses  of  loose  rocks  for  its  shores.  Ole  said  there 
were  no  fish  in  it.  How  we  made  our  way  over  the  loose 
masses  of  stone  on  the  left  bank,  from  one  end  to  the 
other,  is  a  marvel,  sometimes  up,  sometimes  down,  with 
often  nothing,  but  pointed  rocks,  for  our  loaded  animals 

♦  Vand  is  the  Norwegian  for  water  in  its  general  signification,  though  it 
is  often  used  as  a  term  for  lake,  in  the  same  way  that  the  English  word 
**  Wat^r  "  is  often  used  in  Cumberland  and  Westmoreland  instead  of  Lake. 
Thus  we  have  Wastwater,  Ulleswater,  Derwentwater,  Lowwater,  Brothers- 
ivater,  Devokewater,  Crummockwater,  Elterwater,  Leverswater,  Small- 
water,  and  Rydalwater.  The  Norwegian  word  for  lake  is  "stte"  and 
**  indsoe ;"  but  "  vand  *'  (water)  is  most  commonly  used  instead  of  lake,  as 
Losna  Vand,  Lejevoerks  Vand,  Otta  Vand,  Leir  Vand,  Melkedals  Vand, 
Tyen  Vand,  Rus  Vand,  Heimdals  Vand,  Vinster  Vand,  Espedals  Vand, 
Boev  Vand,  and  many  other  instances  too  numerous  to  enumerate. 


\ 


410  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOEWAT, 

to  stand  upon.    Noah  did  his  best.   At  last  the  Puru 
Rawnee  slipped  with  her  load,  and  fell  with  her  legs 
between  the  rocks.    We  were  much  afraid  she  would 
break  or  cut  her  legs  all  to  pieces.     She  was  quickly 
unloaded.   By  good  fortune  our  handsome  Puru  Sawnee, 
had  not  broken  any  bones ;  the  hair  was  bruised  off  in 
some  places ;  she  was  able  to  go  on.     Quickly  reloading 
again,  we  were  thankful  to  leave  the  desolate  shores  of 
the  Melkedals  vand,  stiQ  struggling  on  step,  by  step,  with 
our  tired  animals ;  at  length  we  reached  a  small  wild 
mountain  tarn.     At  one  place  we  crossed  the  track  of  a 
reindeer ;  time  was  fast  fleeting  towards  night,  we  could  not 
very  well  camp  where  we  were,  nothing  but  rocky  steeps, 
and  loose  masses  of  stone  on  every  side,  not  a  blade  of 
grass  to  be  seen  for  our  donkeys.     Leaving  the  lonely 
tarn  we  came  to  a  mountain  stream.     Our  route  now 
became  very  steep,  often  down  loose  masses  of  rock. 
Ole  and  ourself  had  to  lead  the  way,  and  occasionally 
form  a  rough  road,  or  form  steps  with  loose  fragments  of 
rock,  to  enable  our  animals  to  proceed.     All  the  care  of 
our  gipsies  was  necessary.     A  false  step  by  either  of  tie 
donkeys  would  probably  disable  it  for  further  exertion. 
At  some  places  we  had  to  pile  up  masses  of  stone  for  a 
considerable  height,  to  enable  the  donkeys  to  descend 
the  rough,  and  broken  declivities  of  rock.     Slowly  and 
cheerfully  we  made  our  way,  everyone  doing  his  best. 
Now  and  then  some  small  streams  of  water  had  to  be 
crossed.     Coming  down  a  steep  declivity  we  at  length 
came  in  sight  of  the  waters  of  the  Melkedals,  "  Nedre 
Vand,"  or  the  Lower  Lake. 

As  the  shades  of  night  were  fast  descending,  we  reached 
the  lake,  and  making  our  way  slowly  along   the  left 


MEZKEDAIS,  NEDSB  VAND.  411 

bank,  we  halted  on  a  slope,  close  to  the  shore  of  the 
lake.  There  was  a  semblance  of  green;  just  enough 
blades  of  grass,  to  enable  us  to  fancy  we  were  on  turf. 
Seeing  nothing  bat  loose  rocks  beyond,  we  decided  to  stay. 
"  Well,  sir,"  said  the  gipsies,  "  where's  the  fire  V 


"  Ah,"  said  Ole,  "  perhaps  you  can  do  without  one 
this  evening,  or  we  will  go  on  if  you  like." 

We  determined  to  stay. 

"  It  is  uncertain,"  said  Ole,  "  if  we  come  to  any 
better  camping-ground." 

Zachariah,  who  was  always  foremost  in  settling  all 


412  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

matters,  had  first  to  be  extinguished  before  we  could 
light  our  camp  fire  at  the  Nedre  Vand. 

"  Fire,"  said  we ;  "  some  fuel  shall  be  found  some- 
where— ^warm  tea  we  will  have." 

The  donkeys  were  soon  relieved  of  their  burthens.  It 
is  astonishing  how  soon  men  accustomed  to  camp  life 
in  the  moimtains,  Quickly  avail  themselves  of  all  material 
With  a  few  roots,  and  some  dry  turf,  our  water  soon 
boiled  over  a  camp  fire.  We  had  never  failed  during 
our  campaign.  There  is,  besides,  something  very  cheerful 
in  seeing  your  fire  in  the  shades  of  evening,  on  the 
shore  of  a  lake.  Our  spirits  were  soon  as  gay  as  usual 
After  our  tea,  fladbrod  and  butter,  Ole  made  himself  com- 
fortable under  a  rock  First,  putting  up  some  sods  with 
a  spade;  then  placing  a  large  flat  piece  of  turf,  and 
stunted  juniper  roots  above,  Ole  slipped  himself  under, 
and  wrapping  a  handkerchief,  and  his  bag  of  pig  s 
bristles  round  his  neck  and  head,  with  our  waterproof 
over  all,  was  soon  asleep. 

Ole  said  we  had  travelled  about  seventeen  miles  from 
Skogadal  soeter.  At  one  time  just  before  tea,  Ole 
went  up  the  ridge  beyond  our  camp,  to  examine  the 
way.  He  thought  he  heard  a  rifle  shot,  and  might  meet 
some  reindeer  hunters. 

It  was  a  beautiful  moonlight  night ;  we  stood  on  the 
shores  of  the  lake  after  aU  had  gone  to  rest.  There  was 
our  sleeping  guide  under  his  rock.  There  our  sleeping 
gipsies  'neath  their  tents;  near  our  camp  our  three 
gallant  merles.  They  had  indeed  fought  their  way  well 
for  us;  nor  did  we  forget  to  caress  them  sometimes. 
The  Puru  Eawnee  had  to  be  bathed  occasionally  with 
a  little    weak    brandy   and    water;   sometimes  to   be 


THE  LAKE  BY  MOONLIGHT.  413 

strengthened  up  with  a  little  bruise  mixture  ;  biscuit,  and 
now  and  then  a  piece  of  bread,  also  fell  to  their  share. 

Beyond  a  picturesque  island  on  the  other  shore,  we 
could  see  a  large  glacier  stretching  apparently  into  the 
very  waters  of  the  lake.*  How  beautiful  in  the  moon- 
light below  those  wild  peaks.  There  were  some  dark 
crevasses  to  be  seen  on  the  glacier's  surface.  At  times, 
in  the  stillness  of  the  night,  we  could  hear  that  sound 
peculiar  to  glaciers,  a  loud  cracking  noise,  which  echoed 
across  the  waters  to  our  camp. 

Up  at  half-past  three  o'clock.  Zachariah!  Vand! 
water  !  yog  1  fire  I  now  quick,  Noah  1  Our  gipsies  are 
up.  Ole  is  up,  of  course.  We  saw  him  to  bed,  or  we 
should  think  he  sat  up  over  night  to  be  ready.  Tea, 
fladbrod,  and  our  last  tin  of  potted  meat,  for  breakfast. 
Tents  struck  ;  all  moving  along  the  slope  from  the  lake 
at  seven  o'clock. 

We  slowly  make  our  way  over  loose  stones,  and  a 
mountain  ridge  is  soon  gained.  We  commence  our 
descent  towards  the  Lake  Bygdin  far  below  us.  De- 
scending carefully  down  a  snow  slope,  we  crossed  a 
wild  torrent.  Sometime  afterwards  we  reached  the  left 
slopes  of  Melkedalen,  between  the  Grava  Fjeld  and 
Slaataa^eld.  Still  continuing  our  descent  of  Melke- 
dalen, we  reached  the  shores  of  a  lake. 

As  we  came  in  sight  of  this  long,  and  beautiful  lake, 
Ole  pointed  out  the  "  Poet's  House "  on  a  bold  pro- 
montory. At  the  head  of  the  lake  we  could  perceive  it. 
It  has  just  the  appearance  of  a  newly-built  chalet,  or 
soeter ;  something  lonely  and  picturesque  in  its  position. 
Its  association  with  poetry  gave  it  a  further  charm. 

*  The  Melkedals  Broeen. 


414  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOMWAY. 

We  were  still  at  some  distance  from  the  "Poet's  House." 
Ole  signalled  for  a  boat.  In  the  distance  we  could  see 
some  figures  near  the  house,  apparently  watching  our 
party.  They  were  probably  puzzled,  as  to  who  we  could 
be,  issuing  forth  in  early  morning,  from  the  wild  recesses, 
of  Melkedalstindeme. 

Two  boats  came  to  the  shore  where  we  were.  All  our 
baggage  was  placed  in  one ;  we  handed  Esmeralda  into 
the  other.  Ole,  Noah,  and  Zachariah  started  off  on  the 
donkeys  to  ford  the  river,  and  roimd  the  upper  bend  of 
the  lake  to  the  "  Poet's  House." 

The  boats  glided  on  the  smooth  water  of  the  lake. 
The  smi  gilded  the  lofty  mountains  on  either  shore ;  all 
quietude,  peace,  and  contentment.  The  Norwegian  poet 
has  well  chosen,  thought  we,  this  charming  seclusion 
from  the  world. 

Our  boats  rounded  the  promontory  past  the  '*  chalet" 
Two  ladies,  and  three  gentlemen  were  near  it ;  some  were 
seated,  watching  us  as  we  came  near.  They  were  making 
use  of  a  large  telescope. 

Our  boatmen  landed  at  some  little  distance  past  the 
"  Poet's  House  "  on  the  beach  of  the  promontory, — a  sort 
of  inland  bay.  As  we  came  to  the  shore,  we  noticed 
a  man  seated  near  a  hut,  whisking  a  leafy  branch 
over  some  dark  looking  pieces  of  meat,  hanging  from  a 
line.  We  afterwards  found  it  was  rein-deer  meat,  being 
dried  in  the  sun.  The  man  was  keeping  the  flies  off, 
while  the  meat  was  being  dried  for  future  consumption. 

Our  baggage  was  all  safely  deposited  on  a  pleasant 
slope  of  ground,  not  far  from  the  rein-deer  hunter's  hut 
We  had  a  good  view  of  the  **  Poet's  House."  Ole,  and 
Noah,  and  Zachariah  soon  joined  us.     Our  boatmen  were 


EISBOD  OJV  TBE  BYQDlN  LAKE.  415 

well  satisfied  with  one  mark.  Noah  and  Zachariah  had 
got  their  legs  wet  in  crossing  the  river,  but  Ole  had  the 
forethought  to  take  off  his  stockings,  before  he  rode  into 
the  stream. 

The  history  of  the  "  Poet  s  House  "  appeared  to  be  as 
follows : — ^The  wooden  cottage,   which  consists  of  two 
small  rooms  only,  cost  100  dollars,  Norwegian  money,  or 
about  20l.  English.     The  poet,  Aasmund  Olafsen  Vinje, 
joined  with  others  in  the  cost  of  erection.     When  the 
poet  was  required  to  pay  25  dollars,  his  stipulated  share, 
he  was  unable  to  do  so.     He  had  certainly  more  than 
25  pence,  but  he  could  only  spare  5  dollars.     This  was 
certainly  better  than  the  man  who  owed  i65l.  is.  6ci, 
and  offered  his  creditor  the  4^.  6c?.    Poets,  somehow,  are 
seldom  wealthy.      We  have  occasionally  bright  excep- 
tions.    Vinje  was  not  one.     To  release  the  poet  from 
his  difficulty,  it  was  agreed  that  he  should  mortgage  his 
interest  in  the  house,  and  write  a  mortgage  in  poetry  for 
the  sunL     Vinje  did  this.    The  mortgage  deed  in  poetry, 
will  ever  remain,  a  curious,  and  interesting  association, 
with  the  "Poet's  House  "  on  the  Bygdin  lake.* 

Our  experience  does  not  enable  us  to  give  a  single 
instance  of  any  of  the  English  lawyers  writing  a 
mortgage  in  poetry.  The  only  instance  we  know  of  any 
legal  document  being  written  in  poetry,  in  England,  is 
the  wiU  of  Sir  Willoughby  Dixon,  of  Bosworth  Park, 
Leicestershire.  It  was  written  by  himself.  United  to 
the  refinement  of  the  scholar,  there  is  often  a  sharp, 
sound,  practical  hitting  the-right-nail-on-the-head  sort  of 
ability,  among  the  country  gentry  of  England.   A  manly 

*  The  poef  8  pa&tebTev,  or  mortgage,  with  a  translation,  is  given  in  the 
appendix. 


416  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

vigour  of  intellect,  united  to  an  intense  love  of  honour- 
able dealing,  and  fair  play,  in  all  the  affairs  of  life. 

A  rein-deer  hunter,  a  friend  of  Ole's,  soon  afterwanls 
came  to  us.  He  was  a  tall,  spare,  keen  man,  and  brought 
some  rein-deer  meat  up  in  a  small  wooden  tub.  AYe 
were  afraid  to  buy  more  than  one  piece ;  the  weather 
was  hot,  and  the  meat  would  not  keep'  long.  Another 
reason  for  not  buying  more  rein-deer  meat  was^  our 
chance  of  obtaining  fish  at  the  Tyen  Lake,  which  we 
expected  to  reach  the  same  afternoon.  Our  fire  was 
soon  lighted.  One  of  the  gentlemen  fix>m  the  "  Poet's 
House  "  came  up.  The  gipsies  were  very  busy  preparing 
our  dinner.  A  young  Norwegian  gentleman,  who  wore 
a  uniform  tunic  and  trousers  of  green  cloth,  came  to  our 
camp.  He  was  fair  and  prepossessing.  Amiability  was 
written  in  his  countenance,  witlfout  looking  in  his  hand 
He  spoke  some  English.  After  our  meal,  it  was  arranged 
we  should  pay  himself  and  friends  a  visit  at  the  "  Poet's 
House,''  where  they  were  staying,  Tea,  fried  rein-deer, 
pickled  wahiuts,  and  fladbrod,  formed  our  repast.  A 
short  man,  in  a  leather  jacket,  trousers,  and  cap,  came  up, 
and  we  paid  him  sixteen  skillings  for  the  rein-deer  meat, 

Skeaker  was  before  us. .  Resolving  in  our  mind  to  go 
without  our  gipsies  to  the  "  Poet's  House,"  we  left  them 
to  pack  up  and  load  the  donkeys,  whilst  we  went  with 
Ole  to  visit  the  poet's  retreat 

The  chfilet  is  built  of  logs,  on  a  rising  point  of  land,  at 
the  head  of  the  lake.  The  first  of  the  two  rooms  it  con- 
tained, had  a  fireplace  for  cooking,  and  two  boarded 
bedsteads,  not  unlike  "  bunks,"  but  more  finished,  and 
elaborate.  The  room  had  also  one  window,  which  would 
not  open.     A  door  gave  entrance  to  the  inner  room,  also 


THE  POETS  souse.  417 

provided  with  two  similar  bedsteads.  The  inner  chamber 
Wiis  occupied  by  the  ladies,  and  had  only  one  window,- 
which  apparently  did  not  open  for  ventilation.  A 
beautiful  bouquet  of  wild  flowers,  stood  upon  the  room 
table;  all  was  order  and  neatness.  How  soon  we 
distinguished  the  female  hand,  in  domestic  arrange- 
ment. 

The  view  from  the  ch^et  was  a  scene  of  enchantment^ 
as  we  looked  in  the  glorious  midday  sun,  over  the  distant 
expanse  of  lake.  On  the  left  shore  of  the  lake,  rise  the 
mountains  of  the  Grava  Fjeld,  Galdeberg,  the  lofty 
Sletmarkho,  and  the  Svartdalspiggne.  Again,  to  our 
right,  rise  the  wild  mountain  ranges  of  the  Dryllenoset, 
Volaahomene,  and  Oxendalsnoset,  the  home  of  the  rein- 
deer, the  eagle,  the  wolf,  and  the  bear. 

The  visitors  at  the  "  Poet's  House  "  appeared  to  do 
everything  for  themselves.  They  had,  no  doubt,  their 
commissariat^  like  ourselves.  The  young  ladies  were  very 
agreeable,  and  good  looking.  We  were  told  they  were 
the  daughters  of  a  banker.  The  elder  gentleman  of  the 
party,  who  spoke  a  little  English,  pointed  out  some  old 
Norwegian  poetry,  written  in  pencil,  on  the  inner  room 
door.  They  had  been  staying  at  the  chalet  about  eight 
days.  Often,  in  after  life,  shall  we  remember  our 
pleasant  visit,  to  the  "  Poet's  House,"  on  the  beautiful 
Lake  Bygdin. 

On  our  return  to  our  party,  we  found  Noah  had  broken 
his  Alpine  stock.  Zachariah  had  commenced  fishing  in 
the  lake,  but  was  referred  by  some  man  to  a  stream  near, 
which  Zachariah  alleged  was  destitute  of  fish.  Esmeralda 
was  short  and  chaffy. 
One  rein-deer  hunter,  made  a  start  for  the  mountains 

K  25 


418  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOBWAY. 

with  the  telescope.  We  were  told  that  it  belonged  to 
Proesten  Hailing,  who  seemed  either  in  person,  name, 
or  belongings,  to  be  everjrwhere.  The  rein-deer  hunter 
swung  off  at  a  jaunty  pace,  as  if  he  would  make  short 
work  of  the  very  steep  mountain  before  him.  Ole  said 
he  was  going  to  look  out  for  rein-deer. 

The  party  from  the  "  Poet^s  House "  came  up  to  see 
us  off.  They  seemed  interested  in  our  equipment  We 
also  showed  the  young  ladies  our  guitar.  A  copy  of 
our  song,  had  previously  been  given  to  one  of  the 
party.  With  very  little  delay,  we  hastened  away  from 
this  region  of  poetry.  Esmeralda  was  getting  impetuous. 
Even  the  donkeys,  after  all  their  mishaps  during  the 
previous  day,  were  eager  to  proceed  on  the  journey. 
With  many  adieux  to  the  very  pleasant  visitors  at 
the  "Poet's  House*'  we  l^ft  Eisbod,  and  the  Bygdin 
Lake.* 

Esmeralda  was  very  determined,  stepping  after  the 
baggage,  as  only  a  gipsy  can  step.  Ole,  of  course, 
leads  the  way.  Three  merles  loaded,  Noah  and  Zacha- 
riah,  and  then  Esmeralda,  and  then  ourselves. 

Esmeralda  had  been  very  quick  in  movement,  up  and 
down,  and  everywhere,  with  now  and  then,  something 
to  say.  We  were  thankful  when  we  were  removed,  with 
this  restless  orbit  of  our  wanderingsf,  from  the  "  Poet's 

*  Before  we  left  the  Bygdin  Lake^  a  ramour  reached  us,  that  the  poet 
Vinje  was  dead.  His  spirit  had  departed  to  some  far-distant  world.  It 
was  quite  true  :  Aasmund  Olafsen  Vinje  died  30th  July,  1870,  at  Sjo,  in  the 
parish  of  Gran,  Hadeland.  He  was  bom  of  poor  parents,  in  the  parish  of 
Vinje,  in  Thelemarken,  about  1818.  The  exact  year  of  his  birth  appears 
to  be  doubtful.  A  soft  and  melancholy  stillness  seemed  to  pervade  the 
air,  as  if  the  departed  spirit  of  the  poet  lingered  near  his  once  favourite^ 
haunt.    It  glided  silently  over  the  Sletmarkh6,  and  was  for  ever  gone. 


ESMERALDA  CONDONED.  419 

House.*'  Yet  she  said  soon  afterwards,  she  had  only 
pretended  to  be  offended,  we  must  think  nothing  of  it. 
AVe  i^v^ere  on  the  eve  of  fresh  scenes,  why  should  we 
remember  a  slight  ripple  on  the  glittering  surface  of 
tlie  w^aters  of  Lake  Bygdin. 


E  £  2 


CHAPTEE  XXXVI. 

The  guitar  is  part  and  parcel  of  the  Spaniard  and  hia  ballada  ;  he 
slings  it  across  his  shoulder  with  a  ribbon,  as  was  depicted  on  the 
tombs  of  Egypt  four  thousand  years  ago.  The  performers  seldom  are 
very  scientific  musicians  ;  they  content  themselyes  with  striking  the 
chords,  sweeping  the  whole  hand  over  the  strings,  or  flourishing,  and 
tapping  the  board  with  the  thumb,  at  which  they  are  reiy  expert. 

Fokd's  Spain. 

LAKE  TYEN— THE  TOURIST  CLUB  CHALET  —  LORTWICK  S<ETER — LAKE 
DRIFTWOOD— A  COLD  MORNING— A  CHEAF  MEAL— THUNDER  IN  THE 
AIR  —  SUNSHINE  AGAIN  —  THE  SEPARATION  —  THE  GALLANT  OLE 
FAREWELL — TO  CHRISTIANA — ENERGY  ALWAT8 — PUSH  ON — THE  BER- 
GEN ROAD  —  THE  VIOLINIST— ONE  DOLLAR  MORE  —  PICTUHE8QUE 
SCENE. 

EiSBOD,  on  Lake  Bygdin,  had  been  left  at  one  o'clock. 
The  Lake  Tyen  was  soon  reached.  The  Lake  Bygdin 
is  said  to  be  1 7^  English  miles  long,  Lake  Tyen  about 
12  miles.  The  evening  was  beautiful  when  we  reached 
Lake  Tyen.  Our  route  lay  along  its  left  shore  nearly 
the  whole  length  of  the  lake. 

After  we  had  journeyed  some  short  distance,  follow- 
ing the  narrow  footpath  or  rough  track,  we  reached 
Tvindehougeii. 

This  is  also  a  wooden  chalet,  on  a  rise  of  ground 
above  the  lake,  erected,  we  were  told,  at  the  cost  of 
the  "  Norwegian  Tourist  Club  "  for  their  accommodation 
in  summer.     The  cost,  we  were  told,  was   100  dollars, 


THE  TOURIST  CLVB  CBALET.  HI 

equivalent  to  about  20^:  The  sketch  of  the  ch&let  we 
then  made  is  given  below,  with  a  view  of  the  lake,  and 
the  Koldedalstindeme  {peaks  of  the  cold  valley).* 

Ole  shouted  to  some  fishennen  at  "  Fiskebod,"  on  the 
other  side  of  the  lake.  It  was  expected  they  would  bring 
some  fish.  One  man  came  in  his  boat  after  we  had  waited 
quite  a  quarter  of  an  hour.    Ole  was  disappointed  to  find 


NOBWBatAa   I0D8IST  CbDB  CBALET, 

he  had  brought  no  fish.  It  occurred  to  us  we  should  have  . 
to  pay  him  after  calling  him  over :  a  glass  of  aquavitie 
settled  matters  to  his  satisfaction.  There  were  two  men 
at  the  "  Tourists'  Chiilet."  One  was  a  tall  thin  fellow, 
draped  in  leather,  and  nothing  else  —  coat,  breecbea, 
stockings,  and  a  sort  of  skin  shoe.  The  chSlet  consists 
of  two  rooms,  with  superior  kind  of  "  bunks,"  or  bed- 

*  Tbia  extensive  moantain  region,  with  its  wild  wilileme»9  of  peaks, 
rifling  in  fantastic  forai  and  eharp  outline,  especially  the  Koldedalstind, 
StClsnaaatinder,  Dryhaugtinden,  Skagaatolstinden,  and  StyggedalBtinder 
of  HoTungeme  and  Fleskenaastiad,  and  Melkedalalind,  and  others  too 
nnmeroua  to  mention,  present  a  wide  field  of  intereet,  and  at  present  are 
little  known  and  seldom  explored  bf  the  Norwegian  toumt. 


422  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

steada,  but  no  fittings  of  any  kind.    The  ^windows  aie 
too  low  to  obtain  a  pleasant  view  of  the  lake  when 
standing    up,   and    are    not    adapted    for  ventilation. 
Travellers  staying  at  the  chSlet  must  take  everything 
with  them,  including  bedding,  &c     There  is  a  stove  in 
one  room.     We  must,  of  course,  consider  that  this  ch41et 
of  the  Norwegian  club,  is  only  intended  for  summer 
residence.     Travellers  who  avail  themselves  of  its  ac- 
commodation, must  be  mountaineers.     It  is  a  shelter 
from  the  storm,  wind,  and  night-air,  and  is  not  intended 
for  anything  more.    The  evening  was  warm  and  sultry ; 
at  the  same  time  we  enjoyed  the  summer's  sun,  as  we 
made  our  way,   as  best  we  could,  along  the  narrow 
broken  track. 

Except  ourself,  all  the  party  were  very  thirsty ;  even 
Ole,  seldom  troubled  with  thirst,  made  frequent  visits  to 
the  clear  rippling  mountain  streams,  which  often  crossed 
our  path. 

At  evening  close,  we  reached  a  green,  pleasant  slope, 
below  a  rising  bank,  covered  with  juniper  bushes,  and 
very  near  a  shingly  beach  on  the  lake. 

We  were  within  five  or  ten  minutes  of  the  time,  Ole 
predicted  we  should  reach  the  soeter  of  Lortwick.  The 
name,  Ole  said,  meant  dirty.  Not  from  the  state  of  the 
soeter,  hut  from  the  prevailing  bad  weather  of  that  part 
of  the  lake.  If  we  could  judge  from  the  outside  of  the 
soeter,  it  might  also  have  suited  the  name. 

At  first  the  gipsies  did  not  see  any  dry  fire-wood. 
"  Go  to  the  shingly  beach,"  said  we,  "  you  will  find 
plenty."  There  is  always  some  rough  wood,  drifted  up 
by  high  winds  on  every  beach.  They  found  plenty,  and 
we  had  a  good  fire. 


LORTWICK  SCETEE.  423 

What  is  that  we  hear,  as  Noah  is  putting  up  the 
tents  ?  Esmeralda's  voice  to  her  brother  Zachariah, 
in  severe  reproof — '*  Push  it  on.  Highflyer. — What, 
pushing  the  prop  the  wrong  way.  Oh,  Lucas !  Lucas  1 
you  were  always  a  mumper ! " 

We  had  tea,  fladbrod,  and  butter,  for  our  aftens-mad, 
Ole  afterwards  went  to  the  soeter,  and  had  their  iron 
pot  cleaned  out  for  grod  in  the  morning. 

Noah  produced  a  meerschaum  pipe,  and  began  to 
smoke.  What  camp  rules — smoking !  Noah  was,  upon 
explanation,  found  to  have  picked  it  up  at  a  spring,  and 
said  he  was  only  drawing  out  the  contents  of  the  tobacco 
in  it,  to  empty  it.  He  very  soon  put  it  up.  After  re- 
flection— ^Why  are  thoughtless  tourists  so  careless,  as 
to  leave  their  pipes  about,  to  the  serious  injury,  and 
temptation  of  our  gipsies  ? 

Just  as  we  were  retiring  to  bed,  Esmeralda  thought 
she  heard  a  toad  croaking — didn't  like  it.  As  far  as 
we  could  ascertain,  it  was  her  brother  Zachariah,  who 
was  fast  asleep  in  bed  snoring. 

Up  at  half-past  three  o'clock ;  a  very  cold  morning ; 

there  is  a  wintry  feeling  about  the  air.     To-day  is 

Wednesday,  the   10th  August,  yet,   after  all,  we  can 

stand  without  inconvenience,  the  chilliness  of  an  early 

sunrise  in  the  mountains.    The  view  was  beautiful,  as  the 

sun  rose  beyond  the  lake,  over  the  sharp  peaks  of  Kolde- 

dalstindeme.    We  went  to  the  Lortwick  soeter.    Ole  was 

of  course  up.     Does  he  sit  up  all  night  ?  was  a  question, 

we  again  asked.     He  had  got  the  iron  pot  full  of  water 

ready  to  boil.     When  we  returned  Noah  was  sent  for  the 

grod.    How  we  enjoyed,  notwithstanding  the  extreme 

freshness  of  the  morning,  a  summer's  day  iced,  as  we  had 


424  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

our  matutinal  splash  in  the  lake.  Noah  soon  brought  the 
grod  to  the  tents  ;  Ole  joined  us,  and  we  had  our  break- 
fast.    Grod  and  milk  is  certainly  a  cheap  meal,  suffi- 
cient for  five  people  scarcely  exceeds  the   cost  of  ten 
skiUings.    We  found  the  grod  very  good  for  hard  work ; 
our  cost  at  the  Lortwick  soeter  was — 

2lb8.  butter 2    0 

Fladbrfid 0  12 

Milk 0    8 

Soeter       •       • '      .        .        .        .        .        ..04 

Total  cost  3     0 

At  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  passed  the  Lort- 
wick soeter  on  the  Tyen  Vand.  Esmeralda  and  Noah 
had  evidently  got  up  on  the  wrong  side  the  turf. 

The  Lake  Tyen  is  picturesque,  but  not  so  wild  as 
the  Lake  Bygdin.  Time  did  not  permit  us  to  test 
the  fishing.  The  view,  especially  from  the  "  Tourist's 
ChSlet,"  Tvindehougen,  is  very  picturesque.  On  the  op- 
posite shore  there  are  generally  some  Norwegian  fisher- 
men, at  a  place  called  Fiskebod. 

As  we  left  the  shores  of  the  lake,  the  gipsy  storm  rose 
higher ;  the  hurricane  of  human  intellect  was  even  too 
great  for  Zachariah  to  swim  in — ^Mephistopheles  kept 
aloof  with  his  donkey,  as  a  mariner  shuns  a  maelstrom. 
Even  Ole  pushed  ahead  some  yards  farther  than  usual, 
not  altogether  out  of  reach  of  the  wordy  projectiles,  which 
fell  around. 

We  were  used  to  it — ours  was  a  kind  of  charmed  life; 
it  is  marvellous  how  we  sometimes  escaped.  Fancy  the 
melancholy  termination  of  our  career,  as  a  wandericg 
gipsy,  on  the  shores  of  the  Tyen  Vand. 

The  Birmingham  bagman  would  have  lost  two  copies 


TEVNDER  IN  THE  AIR.  425 

of  this  work    The  fete  of  the  Eoglish  gipsies  in  Norway, 
would  have  remained  an  impenetrable  mystery. 

Esmeralda,  as  we  passed  the  Lortwick  soeter,  would 
now  and  then  advance  rapidly  from  the  rear,  and  fire 
a  heavy  broadside  into  Noah.  The  Romany  chaff  was 
very  severe  on  both  sides.  "Isn't  Ambrose  a  ballo- 
shero?  Oh,  yes,  Ambrose  is  like  vamon,  when  he 
rockers  like  a  galdering  gorgio.  Ambrose  can  talk, 
can't  he  ?  The  mumply  dinlo  !  What  a  state  he  puts 
himself  in,  over  everybody  else." 

Noah  was  by  no  means  wanting  in  ammunition.  When 
Esmeralda  fell  back  to  the  rear,  we  did  our  best  to 
keep  her  there.  Noah  kept  a  running  fire  all  the  time. 
The  tall  gipsy  kept  his  temper  very  well,  except  when 
severely  hit,  by  some  more  than  usually  sarcastic 
allusion. 

Leaving  the  lake,  we  passed  down  a  narrow  gorge. 
At  the  head  of  this  gorge,  Esmeralda  again  brought 
up  all  her  reserve  of  the  Romany  artillery.  Uncle 
Elijah  was  brought  iip,  knocked  down,  and  killed  ten 
times  over. 

How  well  we  remember  the  tall  active  form  of  the 
gipsy  girl,  rapidly  bringing  up  her  merle  and  baggage 
fri  Z  rear.  h«  eyeTlhLg  with  mdign«».t  ^ 
poor  Noah — what  will  be  his  fate?  The  battle  of 
Dorking  was  nothing  to  it.  Noah  stands  firm.  He 
takes  advantage  of  the  intricacy  of  t^e  narrow  path- 
way; the  broken  nature  of  the  ground  separates  their 
forces.  Ole,  we  see,  is  still  ahve ;  a  stray  shot  is  only 
heard  now  and  then. 

Again  we  had  calm,  and  quiet,  on  the  horizon.  Shortly 
after  coming    forth  from   the  defile,    we    halt.      Our 


426  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

donkeys  axe  unloaded  on  the  summit  of  a  lofty  slope. 
At  a  short  distance  from  us  there  is  a  soeter.  Below,  at 
the  bottom  of  the  valley  across  a  small  river,  we  see  the  | 
Bergen  road.  The  gipsies  had  had  their  say.  No  one  J^ 
had  any  conception,  or  they  themselves,  what  it  was  all 
about.  An  exhaustion  of  superabundant  animal  energy, 
and  intense  physical  force.  All  was  forgotten.  A  fire 
was  quickly  lighted  in  the  now  warm  sunshixie.  Ole  and 
ourselves  were  now  to  part.  The  middags-mad  con- 
sisted of  fried  English  ham,  vinegar,  fladbrod,  butter, 
ovensbrod,  and  tea.  Ole  was  delighted  with  our  tea. 
He  carefully  measured  the  tin  pannikin  we  had  given 
him  to  use.  Ole  always  had  the  same.  Noah  said  he 
knew  it  by  a  dinge  on  the  side.  Our  guide  said  he 
shoilld  have  one  made  like  it  All  our  camp  arrange- 
ments had,  apparently,  much  interested  Ole.  Moun- 
taineers are  naturally  interested  in  the  most  portable,  and 
convenient  methods,  of  affording  food  and  shelter,  in  those 
regions  where  accommodation  is  scanty  and  uncertain. 
There  was  very  little  that  we  had  not  provided  ;  scarcely 
any  addition  necessary,  beyond  those  things  we  had 
already  brought.  Such  was  the  practical  result  of  our 
camp  experience. 

After  our  middags-mad,  slightly  tinged  perhaps  with  a 
shade  of  melancholy,  we  strolled  aside  with  Ole.  The 
cost  of  Ole's  services  amounted  to  eight  specie  dollars, 
calculated  at  the  rate  of  four  marks  a  day,  and  including 
his  return  allowance.  Our  coat,  lost  on  the  Galdhopiggen, 
was  to  be  sent  by  parcel  post  if  found.  The  postage 
would  be  twelve  skillings  per  pound,  and  we  gave  him 
one  mark  twelve  skillings. 

Ole  said  he  hoped  to  see  us  again ;  we  hoped  so  loo. 


THE  GALLANT  OLE,  FAREWELL.  427 

With  unfeigned  regret  we  parted  with  our  gallant 
Ole  Halvorsen,  of  Bodsheim.  Always  punctual,  even- 
tempered,  and  ever  anxious  to  save  us  any  unnecessary 
expense;  possessed  of  much  practical  experience  of  a 
large  region  of  wild  country ;  ready  to  camp  out  on  the 
mountain  side  without  a  tent ;  undaunted  in  the  hour  of 
difficulty ;  never  at  fault,  quick  in  expedients,  cool  and 
cahn  ;  of  few  words,  but  full  of  information ;  we  pay 
this  parting  tribute  to  our  excellent  Ole  Halvorsen. 

Ole  said  he  had  never  fared  so  well  in  the  mountains. 
It  was  a  compliment  to  our  cook  and  commissariat. 

"  Good-by,  Mr.  Ambrose,  good-by,  Miss  daughter, 
and  master  Zakee,"  said  Ole, 

"  Good-by,  Mr.  Eodsheim,'*  said  our  gipsies  as  we 
shook  hands,  and  with  our  parting  farewell,  and  good 
wishes,  Ole  was  soon  far  up  the  mountain  side. 

Our  donkeys  were  already  loaded.  In  a  very  short 
time  we  had  crossed  the  river,  and  had  reached  the 
Bergen  road.  Our  party  came  forth  from  the  deep 
recesses  of  the  Horungeme  mountains  with  new  energy ; 
issuing  forth,  as  it  were,  from  the  vast  wilderness  of 
peak,  glacier,  lake,  and  river,  to  the  civilized  world. 
The  distance  to  Christiania  was  yet  considerable;  the 
time  we  could  allow  ourselves  was  short ;  the  summer 
fast  waning,  yet  we  had  gathered  renewed  energy.  Our 
donkeys  pricked  their  ears  when  they  found  themselves 
on  the  hard  road.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  health 
and  spirits  of  our  party.  A  few  forced  marches  would 
accomplish  all  we  required.  Mephistopheles  said  it  could 
not  be  done  in  the  time,  and  was  quickly  snuffed  out. 

It  is  necessary  to  push  on  in  this  world.  Splangy 
when  he  goes  out  to  hunt,  will  always  be  in  somewhere. 


428  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOBWA  Y. 

It  is  true  his  weight  may  be  a  stone  or  two  more  than 
his  hunter  can  well  carry.  It  is  equally  certain  that 
Splangy's  mare  is  disinclined  to  jump  if  it  can  bore 
through  a  fence.  If  she  stumbles  into  the  first  ditch, 
Splangy  tumbles  into  the  second.  Still  Splangy  never 
looses  the  reins;  he  pulls  through,  and  is  always  in 
somewhei-e. 

Then  there  are  Johnson  and  Toboys,  men  of  business. 
Johnson  is  said  to  sleep  with  one  eye  open,  and  Toboys 
never  sleeps  at  alL  They  have  business  all  over  the 
world.  For  instance,  when  an  order  is  given,  it  is  sent 
in  to  the  day.  It  is  pushed  through.  The  set  of  chairs 
are  in  the  drawing-room,  never  mind  if  the  owner,  a  few 
days  afterwards,  sits  on  one  with  a  defective  leg,  and  is 
flat  on  the  floor,  with  the  chair  upon  him.  He  is  pain- 
fully reminded  of  Johnson  and  Toboys'  address.  Well, 
after  all,  says  he,  they  were  delivered  in  time  for  me  to 
receive  the  Prussian  Ambassador.  With  many  other 
firms,  says  the  owner,  I  should  have  had  to  wait  two 
years,  when  the  chintz  would  be  faded,  and  the  fashion 
gone.  Johnson  and  Toboys,  of  course,  get  the  order  for 
his  dining-room.  The  furniture  van  dashes  up ;  aU  is 
delivered  on  the  day.  What  matter  if  one  chair  is 
afterwards  discovered  legless.  Ah!  says  the  owner, 
holding  it  up,  it  is  well  cushioned,  and  comfortable. 
What  matter  if,  forgetting  the  legs,  he  sits  down,  turning 
an  acrobatic  back-somersault  in  the  air  ?  Carpets  are 
thick  now-a-days  ;  no  bones  are  broken.  The  owner  is 
only  painfully  reminded  of  Johnson  and  Toboys'  address. 
Never  mind,  says  the  owner,  after  all,  they  were  in  time 
for  me  to  receive  my  friend  Fitful  and  his  wife  from 
India*    It  soon  turns  out  the  workman  who  had  the  legs, 


THE  BEROEN  ROAD.  4i0 

liad  no  head  ;  they  were  only  forgotten.  Johnson  and 
Toboys  have  made  their  fortune,  whilst  some  firms  arc 
thinking  about  it.     Let  us  push  on. 

The  Bergen  road  was  reached  by  our  party,  at  a  point 
between  Nystuen  and  Skogstad.     The  trout  of  Nystuen 
are  said  to  be  exceedingly  good.     We  were  at  the  foot  of 
the    Fille   Fjeld*     The   scenery    was  charming  as  we 
followed  the  road  down  to  Skogstad  ;  all  down  hill,  and 
an  excellent  road.     Groves  of  birch,  mountain  willow, 
and  alder  trees,  alternating  with   rock   scenes,  and  fir 
wood.     The  Findal's   Horn  rises  to  our  right.     Allons 
done  I     How  gaUy  the  Puru  Rawnee,  with  her  jingling 
bells  stepped  out ;  ever  leading ;  head  well  up,  as  if  in 
her  pride,  she  knew  she  was  always  admired.     We  shall 
never  see  another  donkey  like  her ;  such  fine  long  legs, 
clean,  and  admirably  shaped,  stepping  under  her  heavy 
load,  as  if  it  was  nothing.     Allons  done!  as  we  rapidly 
followed  the  winding  road,  and  our  party  soon  reached 
Skogstad   Station.      We  had  parted  from  Ole  at  the 
soeter,   at  twenty  minutes  past   twelve    o'clock,    and 
reached  Skogstad  at  half-past  one.     In  we  went  to  get 
some  fladbrod.    Whilst  the  pige  was  getting  the  fladbrod, 
we  went  into  a  very  small  comfortable  side  room.    Seeing 
a  curiously  inlaid  violin  hanging  up,  we  asked  the  pige 
the  price.     She  brought  the  master  of  the  station ;  he 
called  the  ostler.     It  now  appeared  the  ostler  was   a 
fabricator  of  violins  ;  a  musical  genius.     The  short  old 
man,  who  wore  breeches  on  very  bow  legs,  reached  out 
another  violin  from  a  cupboard.     This  was  of  more  recent 
manufacture,  and  far  better  tone.     The  station-master, 
who  was  a  very  pleasant  obliging  man,  prevailed  on  the 
ostler  to  play  a  tune.     "  An  ancient  Norwegian  air,"  said 


430  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

the  station-maBter.  We  can  only  say  the  composer  must 
have  been  far  from  lively  at  the  time  of  composition. 
The  old  man  sawed  away  in  a  slow  methodical  manner. 
As  contrasted  with  our  camp  music,  it  was  lugubrious. 
How  delighted  Ole  Bull,  the  celebrated  Norwegian  vio- 
linist, would  have  been  with  his  countryman's  performance. 
Mephistopheles  was  nearly  in  a  fit.  We  ordered  a  bottle 
of  excellent  ale,  and  gave  the  ostler  a  glass  to  drink  gamle 
norge.  The  ostler  had  exhausted  his  inspiration,  and 
the  ale  had  no  reviving  efiect.  The  gipsies  and  myself, 
therefore,  finished  the  rest.  Ah!  what  about  strict 
camp  rules?  We  are  not  in  camp,  we  are  in  the 
Skogstad  Station.  Then  Mephistopheles  played  some 
rather  stirring  airs  on  the  new  violin  and  the  old  one. 
We  imderstood  it  was  one  of  the  Hardanger  violins,  and 
asked  the  price.  The  station-master  and  the  two  pige 
stood  by,  whilst  Mephistopheles  played.  Then  the 
station-master  said,  "  English,*'  and  smiled.  The  ostler 
wanted  three  dollars.  We  were  considering,  trying, 
discussing,  when  up  drove  some  carrioles  to  the  station ; 
English  travellers  in  knickerbockers.  Out  went  the  old 
ostler ;  out  went  the  station-master.  We  paid  the  pige 
for  the  fladbrod  and  61.  Noah  took  the  Hardanger 
violin,  if  it  was  one,  under  his  arm.  The  ostler  was  out- 
side, standing  by  the  pony  of  the  first  carriole  just  put  in. 
We  handed  three  paper  dollars  to  the  old  man.  "  Fire," 
said  the  old  fellow,  showing  four  fingers.  "  Nei !  Nei ! " 
said  Noah.  "  No,"  said  we,  finding  the  old  man  had 
suddenly  raised  his  price.  **  Tre,''  and  we  put  out  our 
hand  with  our  three  dollars.  The  two  young  girls  were 
close  by  him  with  anxious  countenances,  evidently 
expecting  we  should  give  up  the  purchase. 


TSe  VIOLINIST.  431 

The  scene  was  famous,  Skogstad  Station,  and  its 
picturesque  scenery.  Carrioles  before  the  entrance  with 
ponies  just  put  in,  and  ponies  just  taken  out.  Jolly 
station-master ;  English  traveUera  in  knickerbockers  just 
getting  into  carrioles.  Two  rather  pretty  Norwegian 
girls  standing  beside  the  old  ostler;  old  ostler,  the 
picture    of    irreaolutioa.     Hie  melancholy  countenance, 


m  vavnaux  tiouh. 


expressing  anxiety  to  get  one  dollar  more.  Esmeralda  at 
our  elbow,  telling  us  not  to  let  the  gorgio  do  Mandy. 
Her  tall  gipsy  brother  waiting  for  the  ancient  violin, 
Mephistophelea  saying :  "  Maw  kin  the  Bosh,  sir,  if  he 
don't  lei  the  three  dollars."*  We  were  just  going  off;  the 
old  man  suddenly  clutched  the  three  dollar  notes.    Noah 

*  Don't  buy  the  fiddle,  air,  if  he  does  not  take  three  doUara. 


432  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

quickly  placed  the  ancient  violin  and  bow  under  Ms 
arm.  Away  we  went  from  the  road  side  scene,  and  soon 
joined  our  animals  and  baggage. 

The  violin  as  represented  still  remains  a  souvenir  of 
Skogstad. 

Scarcely  had  we  left^  when  a  tall  powerful  man,  in 
breeches,  came  running  after  us  in  breathless  haste ;  taking 
off*  his  hat,  we  found  he  wished  to  see  the  donkeys ; 
staying  a  few  moments  to  gratify  his  curiosity,  he  ex- 
claimed many  times  Peen  gioere! ! !  peen  gioere! !  "Ya,  ya," 
said  Noah,  and  we  again  continued  our  journey,  wishing 
him  god  morgen. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

The  gipsies  are  not  destitute  of  good  qaalitiea     Thej  have  a  species 
of  honour  ;  so  that^  if  trusted,  thej  will  not  deceive  or  betray  joiu 

l%e  (Gipsies,    By  Saxubl  Roberts. 

CAMP  ON  LILLE  MJdSEN~THE  8KJYRI  PJELD— AN  ACQUAINTANCE  FROM 
£ISBOD — CAMP  RULES  CONFIRMED  —  OUR  GIPSY  NOAH  —  ENGLISH 
SPOKEN  —  SINGULAR  STONE —  ILOE  STATION — OUR  FRIEND  FROM 
EISBOD — ARTIST    SOUVENIRS — ZACHARIAH's    SPORT — FAST  TRAVELLING 

— harvest  time — secluded  camp — able  pleading — the  steb 
station — obliging  hostess — tether  rope  lost — the  kindly 
welcome — ^an  englishman's  wish — an  open  air  concert — 
Esmeralda's  flowers — adieu,  but  remembered — a  mid-day  rest. 

A  WILD  river  on  the  left  of  the  road  soon  found  its 
outlet  in  a  small  lake.  A  man  and  woman,  in  a  boat 
upon  the  lake,  were  fishing  with  a  net ;  soon  afterwards 
we  came  to  Oye  on  the  "Lille  Mjosen  Vand."  We 
purchased  five  eggs  at  a  house  near  the  road,  for  five 
skillings ;  and  the  young  Norwegian  girl  showed  us  a 
curious  violin  they  had  in  the  house.  The  Lille  Mjosen 
is  a  very  beautiful  and  picturesque  lake ;  the  road  lay 
through  wooded  slopes,  on  the  right  bank,  steep  rocky 
clifis  towered  above  us.  Before  reaching  Tune,  we  came 
to  a  charming  grassy  knoll,  immediately  above  the  road ; 
the  small  stony  gully,  on  one  side,  was  convenient  for  the 
donkeys  to  graze.  A  large  forest  of  spruce  fir  surrounded 
the  knoll  on  all  sides,  except  towards  the  road,  below 

F   F 


434  TENT  LIFE  IN  NOHWAT. 

which  the  stony  shingly  shore  of  the  lake  extended; 
above  the  forest  slope  were  some  lofty  picturesque  rocks. 
From  the  knoll,  we  had  a  delightful  view  across  tiie 
lake,  which  was  not  very  broad  at  this  part  On  the 
opposite  shore,  the  Skjyri  Fjeld  rose  in  very  lofty  steeps, 
almost  immediately  fix)m  the  waters  of  the  lake.  We 
noticed  also,  on  the  other  side,  one  small  gaard,  lonely  by 
itself,  on  a  narrow  slip  of  reclaimed  land,  a  few  acres, 
between  the  water,  and  the  base  of  the  precipice,  which 
rose  almost  straight  to  lofty  summits,  covered  here  and 
there  by  fir  wood. 

Our  knoll  was  delightfully  shut  in  and  secluded ;  the 
lofty  trees  of  the  spruce  fir  stretched  to  the  base  of  the 
cliflf  above.  So  steep  were  they,  that  verdure  could  not 
exist.  Although  only  four  o'clock,  the  camp  ground  was 
so  tempting,  we  determined  to  halt.  Noah  and  Zachariah 
fished  in  the  lake  without  success.  The  evening  was 
very  warm  and  simny.  Our  aftens-mad  consisted  of  tea, 
fiadbrod,  eggs^  and  butter. 

At  the  Skogstad  Station,  we  had  had  one  mark's  worth 
of  fiadbrod,  and  the  bottle  of  ale  cort  twelve  skiUings,  the 
usual  price.  Our  violin  three  dollars,  the  price  at  first 
asked.  A  few  carrioles  passed  underneath  during  the 
evening,  but  the  travellers  did  not  observe  us.  Our 
music  in  the  stillness  of  evening  sounded  across  the  lake. 
In  the  dim  light,  we  could  see  a  fire  on  the  other  shore. 
The  evenings  now  get  more  damp,  night  begins  sooner. 
Quite  late,  as  Noah  was  putting  up  our  tent,  a  Stolkjoere 
came  by ;  the  traveller  pulled  up,  and,  to  our  surprise, 
we  again  met  our  acquaintance  of  the  Bygdin  Lake, 
the  young  gentleman  who  wore  the  uniform  tunic.  We 
welcomed  him  as  an  old  friend ;  he  said  he  had  come  to  a 


CAMP  RULES  CONFIRMED.  436 

certain  point  on  the  route  with  the  ladies,  and  they  had 
met  Ole.  Our  Mend  said  he  had  parted  from  the  other 
visitors  we  met  at  the  '*  Poet's  House/'  and  hoped  to  be 
in  Christiania  on  Sunday.  We  gave  him  one  of  our  best 
cigars,  which  he  said  were  not  ofben  met  with  in  the 
mountains.  A  short  chat,  of  course,  about  the  war,  and 
we  parted,  probably  to  meet  again  in  Christiania. 

Near  our  tents  there  was  an  exceedingly  large  nest  of 
creas  (gip->  ants),  as  my  people  called  them.  Their  com- 
munistic ideas  were  at  once  apparent;  they  swarmed 
about  our  camp,  taking  away  all  they  could  carry. 

They  had  three  large  tracks  diverging  from  their  nest 
to  the  road,  down  which  thousands  were  hastily  hurrying 
to  and  fro ;  it  was  very  interesting  to  watch  them. 
Nature  has  an  ever-varied,  and  instructive  page  to  set 
before  you  at  every  step.  \] 

Going  out  of  our  tents  the  last  thing,  we  were  astounded 
at  what  we  saw  by  the  camp  fire.  The  appearance  of  a 
Huldre  (fairy),  or  a  JotuJ  (giant),  could  not  have  astonished 
us  more.  Noali  was  seated,  and  actually  smoking  a 
pipe;  it  was  as  the  French  say,  "un  peu  trop  fort,"  / 
camp  rules  infringed,  laws  broken,  what  next?  we  of  ' 
course  spoke  upon  the  subject. 

We  shall  not  trouble  our  readers  with  our  Nicotian 
lecture.  It  was  in  vain  Noah  advanced  that  smoking 
was  better  than  chewing ;  we  were  firm.  He  had  given 
his  word,  knew  the  camp  rules,  and  we  could  not  have 
any  future  confidence  in  any  man  who  broke  his  word 
with  us.  Noah,  with  a  melancholy  look,  slowly  put  out 
his  pipe,  and  it  disappeared.  "  You  shall  not  say  I  am  a 
liar,  sir ;  I  shall  keep  my  word,  as  I  have  promised."  After 
all,  Noah,  in  his  wild  way,  is  not  a  bad  fellow ;  he  has 

F  F  2 


436  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

been  thrown  into  all  kinds  of  temptation,  without  care, 
or  instruction  of  any  sort,  leading  a  wild  wandering  life. 
yet,  throughout  our  campaign,  we  never  heard  him  oBit 
utter  an  oath.  It  is  more  than  we  can  say  with  regani 
to  many  others  we  have  met,  persons  more  educated,  and 
with  better  opportunities.  Yes,  Noah  is  tolerably  steady ; 
notwithstanding,  a  few  cigars,  and  a  little  brandy,  might 
be  much  imperilled  if  placed  in  his  way.  We  must 
however  give  Noah  his  due,  to  us  he  was  ever  ready  to  do 
his  share  in  the  rough  work  of  our  Norwegian  wanderings. 
We  must  ever  take  an  interest  in  Noah's  fate. 

It  is  Thursday  the  11th  of  August,  the  morning  is  ven' 
fine,  our  party  up  at  twenty  minutes  past  four  o'clock. 
Our  fladbrod  was  exhausted;  nineteen  college  biscuits 
were  allowed  to  each,  with  butter  and  tea  for  breakfast. 
The  morning  was  cold  till  we  had  the  sun  upon  the 
valley.  The  Lille  Mjosen  is  a  charming  lake.  Our 
party  were  soon  off. 

We  had  not  long  left  our  camp,  when  we  met  a 
gentleman  carrying  an  umbrella  to  shade  himself  from 
the  morning  sun.  He  was  a  Norwegian  clergyman,  who 
spoke  English  very  well,  and  had  been  staying  with  an 
English  family  in  Christiania.  Evincing  much  interest 
in  our  expedition,  he  kindly  gave  us  some  very  useful 
suggestions  with  regard  to  our  future  route.  The  route 
he  suggested  as  best  suited  for  camping  purposes,  and  as 
also  being  very  picturesque,  was  via  Kroemmermoen,  the 
Spirilen  Lake  and  the  Krogkleven.  When  he  left  us  to 
continue  his  walk,  we  immediately  afterwards  reached 
an  inn,  which  appeared  very  comfortable;  several 
travellers  were  staying  there.  They  were  attired  in  their 
best   wearing  apparel,  and    were  evidently  enjoying  a 


SINGULAR  STONE. 


437 


summer  tour.  We  tried  to  get  some  Kagebrod ;  all  they 
could  offer  us  were  some  very  seedy  pieces  of  bread,  rather 
mouldy,  and  one  piece  of  fladbrod,  which  Noah  could  have 
demolished  at  a  mouthful.  The  bread  we  left,  but  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter,  at  twenty-two  skillings,  we  took 
with  us. 

Soon  afterwards  a  man  came  running  after  us  in 
breathless  haste ;  our  donkeys  were  the  object  of  attrac- 
tion ;  great  was  his  admiration  before  he  left  us. 

In  a  roadside  churchyard  we  soon  after  passed,  we 
believe  it  was  Vang,  there  is  a  singular  stone,  carved  with 
an  interesting  relief,  and  an  inscription. 

In  some  churchyards  we  passed  in  Norway,  a  mere 
cross  of  wood  marks  the  grave.  Now  and  then  we 
ol^crved  a  railing  round  a  grave,  and  occasionally,  but 
very  seldom,  a  marble  head-stone,  with  an  inscription. 
Then  we  came  to  birch  woods,  and  a  beautiful  road  along  1 
the  side  of  the  lake.  Sometimes,  as  we  journeyed  close  \ 
to  the  water  edge,  shaded  by  lofty  rocks,  our  gipsies,  as 
tbey  caught  sight  of  the  large  trout,  would  exclaim — 
"  Dawdy,  what  a  borrieck  matcho  !  "* 

In  the  Lille  Mjosen,  we  observed  nets  set  with  floats. 
Spruce  fir  is  the  predominant  tree  of  this  district  The 
scenery  is  very  beautiful ;  wood,  mountain,  rock,  and 
water  in  great  perfection. 

Our  gipsies  pushed  the  donkeys  on  rapidly ;  some- 
times on  the  trot.  About  one  o'clock  we  saw  to  the  right 
of  the  road  "  Oiloe  Station." 


•  Meaning  in  Eomany  a  large  fish.  "Borrieck"  is  evidently  derived 
from  "  boro,"  great.  It  is  spelt  "  baro  "  in  the  Turkish  gipsy.  The  word 
"  borrieck,"  as  used  by  our  gipsies,  meaning  great,  we  have  never  met  with 

before. 


438  TENT  LIFE  IN   NORWAY. 

We  were  delighted  with  the  scenery  of  this  place. 
Sending  Esmeralda  and  Zachariah  on  with  the  bc^age, 
with  instructions  to  halt  at  the  first  convenient  place,  ve 
went  with  Noah  up  the  road  to  the  station. 

We  had  to  forage  for  bread.  The  mistress  of  the 
station,  a  portly  good-natured  woman,  looked  out  of  an 
upstairs  window,  as  we  came  up.  When  we  entered  the 
old  house,  we  were  surprised  to  meet  our  Mend,  from  the 
"  Poet's  House,"  at  the  Bydgin  Lake.  It  seems  he  was 
waiting  for  a  carriole  to  take  him  on.  Through  lus  kind 
assistance,  the  mistress  spared  us  part  of  a  loaf,  sue  ^gs, 
and  some  fladbrod,  for  sixteen  skillings.  Noah  at  once 
took  possession  of  the  provisions. 

The  mistress,  who  was  a  fine-looking  woman,  possessing 
some  remains  of  former  beauty,  took  us  upstairs.  It  was 
a  sort  of  large  guest  room,  with  two  windows,  and  three 
or  four  beds.  The  station  seemed  to  have  been  a  perfect 
nest  of  artists.  We  were  not  surprised.  The  scenery 
around  was  lovely.  Not  that  it  was  as  impressive,  as 
that  we  had  lately  left;  but  all  the  elements  which 
entrance,  and  captivate  the  mind,  of  those  who  seek 
nature,  were  there.  The  artists  had  left  their  marks. 
One  artist  of  the  name  of  Lorck,  had,  on  the  morning  of 
his  departure,  painted  his  watch  on  the  wall,  above  the 
head  of  his  bed.  When  he  had  left,  the  pige,  thinking 
he  had  forgotten  it,  attempted  to  take  it  down.  Another 
had  painted  a  key  on  the  wall,  almost,  if  not  quite  equal 
to  the  one  on  the  wall  of  Wiertz's  celebrated,  and  singular 
Mus^e  at  Bruxelles.  There  was  also  a  landscape  scene 
painted  on  the  wall,  of  another  part  of  the  room,  over  one 
of  the  beds. 

Of  course  the  pencil  of  an  industrious  countryman  was 


ABTI8T  SOUVBNIBS.  43» 

busy—"  W.  J.  PhiUipa,  Prestwieh,  20-7-70."  Then  wc 
were  shown  a  small  likeness  of  Eekersbei^  the  artist, 
"vrhich  represented  him  as  dressed  in  a  red  coat ;  the 
portrait  had  been  painted  by  himself.  We  were  told  he 
had  died  three  weeks  before  our  visit,  and  the  artist 
would  never  again  visit  the  scenes  which  had  afforded  so 
many  subjects  for  his  pencil. 

Then  the  hostess  produced  two  girdles  for  sale,  the 
ovraers  being  poor  and  wanting  money.  We  at  last 
bonght  one  of  the  girdles  as  a  souvenir — a  Norwegian 
maiden's  girdle. 


■0>VMU>   lUIDKl's  BILT,    Slt^H. 


An  engraving  is  now  given  of  the  belt.  The  omamenta 
and  fastening  are  all  in  brass.  The  only  similar  belt  we 
saw  in  Norway,  was  worn  by  the  little  dark  woman,  who 
visited  our  tents  at  Lauigaard. 

The  hostess  afterwards  brought  us  some  milk,  for  which 
she  would  not  make  any  charge.  In  fact,  our  Bygdin 
friend,  the  hostess,  oursclf,  and  Noah,  had  quite  a 
delightful  conversazione.  Vague  news  was  of  course 
given  about  the  war. 

When  we  had  just  descended  the  extremely  primitive 
stairs,  and  were  going  out  of  the  door,  the  husband  met 


440  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

US.  He  gave  a  sort  of  suppressed  shriek,  when  he  sav 
Noah  with  the  provisions.  Our  friend  from  the  Bygdin 
Lake,  and  the  man's  tall  wife,  said  some  words  to  him. 
Noah  had  certainly  not  taken  the  watch  and  key  painted 
on  the  guest-room  wall  Whatever  they  said,  the  effect 
was  magical ;  the  husband  disappeared.  With  kindly 
salutations,  we  left  the  abode  of  artists. 

What  a  charming  spot  Esmeralda  had  selected  for  the 
mid-day's  halt,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  statioD, 
where  the  road  traversed  some  new-mown,  parky-looking 
ground,  open  to  the  road ;  they  had  unloaded  near  a 
clump  of  trees. 

The  river  from  the  Lille  Mjosen  Lake,  broken  into 
picturesque  rapids,  was  close  to  us,  Esmeralda  was 
seated  midst  the  baggage,  and  the  donkeys  were  grazing 
near.  Zachariah  was  at  once  started  to  fish  for  the 
commissariat,  and  afterwards  returned  with  seven 
delicious  trout ;  one  was  a  very  fine  one,  one  foot  three 
inches  long;  beautifully  pink.  For  our  middags-mad, 
we  had  eggs,  potatoes,  fladbrod,  and  cheese.  Our  friend 
from  the  Bygdin  Lake,  soon  after  passed  along  the  road, 
en  route  to  Christiania,  and  waved  his  adieux.  Several 
carrioles  and  carriages  passed  along  the  road  towards 
Bergen.  Some  were  apparently  English  travellers,  and 
seemed  rather  astonished  to  see  a  party  of  gipsies  near 
the  roadside. 

Occasionally  the  travellers  looked  with  curious  interest, 
as  they  contemplated,  en  passant,  our  mode  of  travelling. 
It  was  a  glorious  warm  sun,  and  we  enjoyed  our  halt 
amid  the  lovely  scene. 

The  animals  are  reloaded,  and  we  are  off  at  half-past 
three  o'clock.     Shortly  afterwards  v^e  were  overtaken  by 


FAST  TRAVELLING.  441 

a  German  smoking  in  his  stolkjoerre.  Very  much 
interested  he  seemed  in  our  cayalcade,  and  evidently  took 
us  for  strolling  players  and  musicians.  He  passed,  and 
then  pidled  up ;  stared,  lingered,  and  ultimately  ofifered 
Ssmeralda  a  seat  in  his  stolkjoerre.  She  declined  his 
offer.  Then  he  pressed  it.  We  then  came  up,  and  told 
him  our  party  always  preferred  walking.  He  asked  us 
"w^hat  we  performed,  and  begged  our  pardon  when  he  was 
told  we  travelled  for  our  pleasure,  with  our  tent,  and 
baggage,  to  see  the  country. 

The  German  said — "  You  are  looking  well ;  it  agrees 
with  you.  I  prefer  to  travel  faster.  I  do  fourteen 
Norsk  miles  a  day  (ninety-eight  English).  Wish  you 
all  a  pleasant  journey."  And  he  drove  oflf  towards 
Christiania. 

The  road  was  very  pleasant.  Sometimes  through 
forest,  sometimes  through  the  cultivated  enclosure  of  a 
gaard.  A  young  Norwegian  passed  us  at  one  place,  who 
spoke  English.  In  passing  through  a  forest,  Noah  picked 
up  a  small  spruce  fir  which  was  uprooted,  and  was  lying 
by  the  way.  This  replaced  his  broken  alpenstock.  It 
was  carefully  peeled,  and  made  into  a  respectable  walking 
stajBT. 

At  a  short  distance  from  Stee,  we  came  in  sight 
of  the  river,  and  a  fall  of  water,  near  some  saw-mills, 
apparently  closed  during  the  absence  of  the  workmen  at 
the  harvest.  All  were  now  busy  in  the  fields.  In 
Norway  the  summer  is  short.  To  harvest  quickly  is  a 
matter  of  pressing  necessity.  Everything  gives  place  to 
the  harvest.  A  tolerably  quick  man  on  a  farm,  we  were 
told,  earned  about  twenty  dollars  a  year  wages — rather 
more  than  four  pounds  English — his  food    lodging,  two 


442  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

pairs  of  shoes  and  two  pairs  of  stoddngs^  and  two  shirts. 
Men  engaged  by  the  day  receive,  we  were  told,  about 
one  mark  twelve  skillings. 

Near  the  mills,  a  stream  of  water  crossed  the  road 
firom  a  thick  wood  on  the  left.  The  stream  afterwards 
joined  the  river  near  the  mills.  Through  the  wood,  there 
was  a  pathway  leading  to  some  open  broken  ground 
surroimded  by  treea  It  was  a  pleasant  secluded  spot, 
not  far  from  the  road.  Here  we  camped.  Our  aftens- 
mad  consisted  of  Med  trout,  tea,  and  barley-meal  cake& 
made  in  the  %ing  pan.  Zachariah  caught  seven  txout, 
and  Noah  three  trout,  in  the  river.  We  went  after  tea  to 
fish,  but  it  was  almost  dark,  and  we  returned  to  our  camp. 

In  the  early  morning,  at  twenty  minutes  to  four 
o'clock,  when  we  got  up,  the  air  was  rather  cold.  Our 
fire  being  lighted,  we  had  for  breakfast  fried  trout, 
fladbrod,  and  tea.  Zachariah  went  fiBhing,  whilst  Noah 
was  having  his  matutinal  wash.  Esmeralda,  seated  near 
the  fire,  commenced.  She  was  sorely  grieved  to  think 
we  should  part  with  the  donkeys.  The  poor  animals 
would  be  left  to  be  ill  used  in  a  strange  country.  She 
did  not  like  to  part  with  things  she  was  used  to,  after 
they  had  gone  with  us  so  many  miles.  She  looked  as  if 
we  were  going  to  have  them  shot  immediately  after  we 
arrived  at  Christiania. 

She  pleaded  so  earnestly  on  their  behalf,  that  she 
would  have  won  the  heart  of  any  one  of  the  members 
of  the  Humane  Society,  if  he  had  been  present 

What  could  we  do  ?  One,  of  course,  was  promised  to 
our  friend  the  chevalier ;  but  the  other  two  ?  These 
^ere  not  promised.  We,  of  course,  took  what  our 
hobbenengree  had  said  into  consideration. 


THE  8TEE  STATION.  443 

It  was  a  lovely  mornings  when  the  sun  was  up.  In 
the  first  burst  of  its  splendour,  we  watched  its  broken 
rays^  gild  the  wateis  of  the  shaded  stream,  near  our  camp. 
How  rich  in  colouring,  t^e  tinted  moss  on  the  broken 
rocks^  We  could  have  lingered  long  in  contemplation. 
Yet  our  party  must  quickly  move.  Our  tents  are  struck, 
and  we  are  again  en  route. 

Zachariah  tried  with  his  rod  and  line,  as  we  went  along 
the  road,  but  without  success,  and  at  last  he  put  up  his 
tackle. 

Shortly  afterwards  we  arrived  at  the  Stee  Station.  The 
house  was  not  far  jfrom  the  road  on  our  left.  Taking 
Noah  with  us,  we  went  up  to  purchase  for  our  com- 
missariat. 

The  guest-chamber  is  tolerably  large,  and  well  lighted, 
but  not  very  lofty.  All  the  furniture  was  in  the  old 
Norwegian  style.  On  the  walls  we  noticed  likenesses  of 
Prindsesse  Alexandra  og  Prindsen  af  Wales ;  also 
Eugenie  Keiserinde  and  Napoleon  3rd  Keiser  af 
Frankrig. 

Two  travellers  appeared  below  with  carrioles.  The 
very  civil  and  obliging  mistress,  we  supposed  her  to  be, 
of  the  Stee  Station,  soon  provided  us  with  a  beautifully 
cooked  pink  trout  from  the  Slidre  Fjord,  fladbrod,  eggs 
and  potatoes  and  butter,  for  which  we  paid — 

Fladbrod 10 

Fiske 0  12 

12  eggs  .        .        .        .   •    .        .        .        .    0  12 

1  lb  butter 10. 

Potatoes .10 

4    0 

Then  our  young  Norwegian  hostess  came  down  to  the 


444  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

road,  with  one  or  two  piges  of  the  house,  to  see  our 
donkeys,  and  have  a  chat  with  us,  each  knowing  very 
little  of  what  the  other  said.  Yet  it  is  astonishing  how 
we  managed  to  make  ourselves  understood,  with  our  small 
vocabulary  of  Norwegian  words.  They  wanted  us  to 
play,  but  Zachariah's  violin  was  out  of  order,  and  time 
pressed.  Bidding  them  all  farewell,  we  were  once  more 
en  route. 

The  Stee  Station  is  pleasantly  situated,  not  far  from 
the  Slidre  Fjord.  Bears  and  game  are  said  to  be  in 
plenty  in  the  neighbourhood;  and  we  are  able  to  say 
that  the  trout  are  excellent.  Those  caught  by  Mephis- 
topheles  in  the  river,  a  short  distance  before  we  came  to 
Stee,  at  our  last  camp,  were  delicious.  Very  shortly 
after  we  had  left  Stee,  the  melancholy  discovery  vas 
made,  that  our  donkey's  tether-rope,  and  neck-strap,  had 
been  left  behind  at  the  last  camp. 

General  recrimination  among  our  gipsies.  Esmeralda 
had  unloosed  the  Puru  Rawnee  the  first  thing  in  the 
morning,  to  give  it  more  liberty,-  and  the  rope  was  left  on 
the  ground.  Noah  thought  it  was  put  up.  Well,  after 
all,  it  may  be  of  some  use  to  those  who  found  it.  They 
had  no  chance  of  restoring  it,  and  we  managed  without, 
during  the  rest  of  our  travels. 

Now  we  were  again  in  enclosures.  The  road  lay  along 
the  left  shore,  and  a  short  distance  along  the  length  of 
"  Slidre  Fjord.*'  It  is  a  long,  and  considerable  extent  of 
water. 

Our  party  had  not  gone  very  far,  when  we  passed  an 
excellent  house  on  the  right  of  the  road — much  better 
than  those  generally  seen.  Soon  after,  when  we  had 
partly  passed  down  the  short  descent  beyond  the  house, 


THE  KINDLY  WELCOME,  445 

a  gentleman  came  after  us.    As  he  came  up  and  addressed 
us,  we  at  once  called  a  halt. 

Two  ladies  then  joined  him.  The  gentleman  was  a 
pale,  and  exceedingly  intellectual-looking  man.  Wo 
understood  him  to  say  that  he  had  seen  some  account  of 
us  in  the  Times.  Afterwards,  we  heard  him  addressed 
as  Doctor. 

Directly  after,  some  more  ladies  came  down  the  hill 
from  the  opposite  direction,  accompanied  by  one  or  two 
young  gentlemen.  One,  a  tall,  gentlemanly,  amiable, 
young  Norwegian,  is  especially  selected  to  converse  with 
us  in  English,  and  act  as  interpreter. 

In  very  good  English  he  said,  "  I  pray  you,  sir,  speak 
slowly,  and  I  can  understand  you."  We  did  so,  and 
managed  exceedingly  well. 

Our  visitors  had  now  increased  to  quite  a  large  party 
of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  all  surrounding  our  gipsies  and 
donkeys,  talking,  discussing,  asking  questions,  all  in  one 
breath.  It  was  quite  a  roadside  scene,  as  we  almost 
blocked  up  the  narrow  part  of  the  way  at  the  foot  of  two 
short  ascents.  The  sun  was  exceedingly  hot,  fiery,  and 
bright. 

Just  at  this  moment,  a  lady  in  a  carriole,  driven  by  her 
skydskarl,  came  down  the  rather  steep  descent  towards 
us.  She  was  of  English  distinguSe  type  of  beauty, 
and  did  noi  appear  either  comfortable,  or  delighted  with 
her  mode  of  travelling.  There  was  a  pallor  on  her 
countenance  ;  she  seemed  nervous  and  delicate. 

Another  carriole,  coming  immediately  behind,  was 
driven  by  a  nice,  good-humoured,  handsome  fellow,  we 
judged  to  be  her  husband.  His  wife,  who  did  not  speak, 
had,  like  many  who  journey  through  life,  a  care-worn 


446  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY, 

■ 

impran  writtm  on  efco^  line  of  her  thoughtfdl  counte- 
nance. 

They  had  scarcely  gone  past^  when  the  Ebg^idi  traveller 
suddenly  pulled  up,  and  we  had  a  few  minutes'  conyomi 
We  thought  he  seemedi  half  to  envy  our  independent 
mode  of  travelling,  for  at  parting  he  said,  ''Just  the 
thing  I  should  like/'  and,  smiling,  wished  us  a  pleasant 
journey. 

After  our  English  travellers  had  left  us,  we  found  our 
visitors  still  interested  in  our  gipsies,  animals,  and  baggage. 
Noah  soon  unpacked  our  tin  box,  and  we  presented  one  of 
our  songs  to  the  Doctor,  one  to  the  young  gentleman  who 
spoke  English,  and  one  to  a  very  pleasant^  kind,  amiable 
lady  of  the  party. 

Whilst  Noah  was  rearranging  our  baggage,  the  young 
gentleman  who  spoke  English  said,  "  Come  further,  where 
there  is  ombre."  Very  shortly  we  came  to  another  ex- 
ceedingly comfortable,  good-sized  house,  standing  in  its 
nice  pleasant  garden,  with  an  approach  from  the  road. 
The  "Slidre  Fjord"  was  below  it,  and  the  situation  was 
delightful.  There  they  pressed  us  to  remain,  and  take 
rest ;  we  would  find  shade  and  convenience.  Finding  we 
C9uld  not  stay,  one  of  the  ladies  ordered  her  servants  to 
bring  out  bottled  Baiersk  61  and  glasses,  and  a  large  jug 
of  excellent  draught  beer,  which  at  last  we  consented  to 
have.  We  halted  'neath  the  shade  of  a  tree  which  over- 
hung the  road.  Our  gipsies  were  very  thirsty ;  we  were 
obliged  to  be  very  firm  as  to  quantity.  Our  kind  friends 
pressed  us  much  to  stay  with  our  tents,  but  our  time  was 
limited. 

Then  our  guitar,  and  Zachariah's  violin  were  tuned  up : 
the  heat  and  knocking  about  had  not  improved  their 


AN  OPEN'AIB  CONCEBT.  447 

tone.  We  sang  for  our  kind  entertainers  our  g^psy  flong. 
Afterwards,  three  of  the  young  ladies  (and  liiejr  were  very 
.^ood-looking),  joined  by  one  of  the  young  gentlemen, 
sang  for  us-  Vary  nicely  they  sang ;  one  held  a  small 
book  of  Ninrwegian  songs,  to  assist  the  memory.  Noah 
and  Zachariah  afterwards  gave  them  some  music,  with 
their  violin  and  tambourine. 

The  lady  had  firuit  brought  out.  In  all  our  wander- 
ings they  were  amongst  those  whose  acquaintance — ^alas ! 
too  short — will  always  be  remembered  with  pleasure. 

Time  pajsses  rapidly.  The  gipsies'  instruments  are  put 
up.  The  kind  Norwegian  lady  gave  Esmeralda  a  bouquet 
of  flowers  from  her  garden.  There  was  much  in  this 
present,  which  drew  us  still  closer,  in  our  appreciation  of 
her  friendly  thought  The  heroine  of  our  book  receives 
a  bouquet  of  flowers!  It  is  not  thrown  down  at  her 
feet,  with  the  grandiose  air  of  "  There,  take  it !  "  It  is 
given  her  by  one  whose  amiable  spirit  had  our  sympathy, 
and  for  whom  we  felt  at  that  moment  we  could  have 
risked  muck  She  had  given  the  bouquet  to  the  heroine 
of  our  wanderings — Esmeralda,  the  true,  not  the  ficti- 
tious, heroine  of  this  book ! 

The  young  gentleman  who  spoke  English  expressed  in 
English  terms  their  good  wishes.  They  were  thoroughly 
good  people,  with  all  the  refinement,  and  gentleness  of 
those  best  feelings,  which  should  predominate  in  our 
nature.  As  we  went  out  of  sight,  in  passing  a  turn  of 
the  road,  we  saw  them  in  the  distance,  waving  their 
handkerchiefs  in  parting  adieux. 

It  was  now  midday ;  the  sun  was  intensely  hot.  Our 
animals,  who  could  stand  almost  anything,  seemed 
oppressed  with  the  heat.     We  had,  we  believe,  just  left 


448  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

"  Lomen."  There  were  enclosures  on  both  sides  the  road; 
no  convenient  place  to  give  us  shade  and  rest  We  mus; 
push  on.  Each  day,  as  we  wandered  on,  we  never  knew 
where  we  should  dine  or  sleep. 

The  district  we  now  passed  through  was  well  culti- 
vated. Many  gaards  on  each  side  the  road.  The  pea- 
sants were  busy  with  their  harvest  Even  their  anxiety 
to  make  provision  for  the  winter  of  life  did  not  prevent 
them  from  running,  at  times,  with  excited  and  unwonted 
energy,  to  the  road  fences  to  see  us  go  by. 

At  one  place,  we  observed  a  tall  peasant  running  down 
a  steep  declivity ;  in  his  hurry  he  had  left  one  of  his 
shoes  behind,  one  on  and  the  other  off.  "  Here  comes 
neck  or  nothing,"  said  Esmeralda,  as  he  nearly  took  a 
header  down  a  steep  rock. 

Still  we  had  to  keep  on.  Small  patches  of  hops,  we 
noticed  at  some  of  the  gaards,  perhaps  a  few  perches ; 
never,  we  remember,  more  than  a  rood.  Yet  they  seemed 
to  grow  luxuriantly.  Trailing  in  their  rich  foliage,  and 
blossoms,  they  are  always  an  interesting  feature  in  any 
scene.  Now  and  then,  we  noticed  hemp.  There  was 
a  well-to-do  appearance  in  this  district 

We  had  gone  some  distance  in  the  heat  of  the  sun, 
travel-worn,  and  dusty ;  at  last  we  descended  a  steep 
declivity,  and  on  our  left  we  perceived  a  rough  piece  of 
open  ground,  covered  with  scattered  trees  and  bushes, 
sloping  to  a  dingle.  A  cool,  clear  stream,  rippled  near 
an  old  mill,  and  crossed  the  road.  The  road  descended, 
and  again  as  rapidly  ascended.     All  was  secluded. 


CHAPTER  XXXVin. 

Now,  where  is  tiie  ketUe  ?  bo  hitngiy  are  we, 
Surely  oar  sapper  the  next  thing  most  be ; 
The  fire  already  is  blaxing  ap  high, 
And  asking  for  rashers  of  bacon  to  fry ; 
The  damper  is  perfect,  the  pannikin's  found. 
And  all  laid  out  on  the  banqueting-ground  ; 
When  eyeiything's  ready,  I  have  not  a  doubt 
A  monarch  might  envy  our  '*  camping  out.  '* 

Bush  Flowers  from  Australia, 

AN  ENGLISH  PIskERMAN — THE  HAUNTED  MILL — THE  TOURIST's  PURCHASE 
— NOAH'S  (JOOD  fortune — THE  STRAND  FJORD — A  WOMAN's  CURIOSITY 
— THE  HEROINByOF  OUR  BOOK — ^A  NORWEGIAN  SEAMAN — THE  MIS- 
TAKEN MANSION — THE  AURDAL  CHURCH — ^PRYDBNLAND  STATION — 
A  BOADSIDE  HALT — TflE  APPRECIATED  GIFT — THE  SEVERE  YOUNG 
LADY — THE  KIND-HEARTED  PEASANT — KRCEMMSRMOEN — IMPULSE  AND 
REASON. 

What  delicious  shade.  Our  water  was  soon  boiling 
near  the  old  milL  Our  readers  must  not  suppose  the 
mill  was  a  large  one ;  it  was  about  four  times  as  large 
as  a  good-sized  sentry-box.  We  may  have  even  ex- 
aggerated the  size.  Norwegian  mills  are  not  on  the 
ponderous  scale  of  English  ones. 

The  middags-mad  consisted  of  our  Stee  trout  cold. 
It  was  a  fine  trout,  either  steamed  or  boiled.  In  the 
heat  of  the  day,  the  trout  was  pronounced  by  our 
gourmand  gipsies  excellent ;  some  vinegar  was  allowed 
with  it,  besides  tea,  fladbrod,  butter,  and  fried  eggs. 

Q  U 


450  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

The  time  had  maxked  two  o'clock  when  we  arrived. 
The  pleasant  slope   of  green  turf  where  we  sat  com- 
manded the  road.     Whilst  we  were  taking  our  midday 
meal,  two  Englishmen,  one  having  a  fishing-basket  dung 
over  his  shoulder,  passed  in  a   stolkjoerre.     Then  we 
saw    two    young   Norwegian    tourists,    in    their  high 
laced-up  boots,  one  of  whom  carried  a  skin  knapsack; 
they  were  pushing  on  at  a  swinging  pace.     Noah  and 
Zachariah  of   course   fell   asleep.     Esmeralda  went  to 
the  old  mill,  and  fancied  she  heard  a  curious  moaning 
sound,   something  like  groaning  in   it.     We  did  not 
investigate  it ;   besides,  the  mill  was  fastened ;  neither 
had  we  any  permission  from  the  owner  to  go  into  his  mill 
— sit  up  in  a  haunted  mill  a  few  feet  square !     If  the 
wheel   should  be   turned  by  the  ghost,   where   should 
we   be  ?      Ground   to    flour,    eaten    by   a  Norwegian 
for  his  middags-mad — made  into   fladbrod,   and  eaten 
by  some  English  tourist.      If  we  are  to   see   ghosts, 
let  it  be   in  an  old   castle,   family  mansion,   or    the 
ruins  of  an  abbey  ;   but  a  miU ; — besides,   where  was 
the  owner  ? 

As  we  sat  on  the  green  slope,  we  observed  a  wooded 
promontory,  stretching  into  the  fjord,  below  the  road,  and 
sent  Noah  to  reconnoitre  for  camping  ground.  The 
Tamo  Eye,  we  found,  had  a  sore  back;  our  bruise- 
mixture  was  applied,  Noah  reported  unfavourably  for 
remaining.  The  donkeys  were  loaded,  and  we  quickly 
left  the  dingle,  and  the  haunted  mill  Somehow  we  had 
lingered,  and  lounged,  in  the  pleasant  shade,  till  after 
five  o'clock.  JEn  avant  was  the  word  ;  away  went  tall 
Noah  in  advance,  with  the  Puru  Rawnee  before  him, 
the  rest  following,  bag  and   baggage,   as   hard  as   the 


NOAirS  GOOD  FORTUNE,  451 

party  could  go,  Noah  with  his  coat  off  and  his  trowsers 
tucked  up. 

In  the  distance  we  could  see  Ulno3s  church,  near  the 
"  Strand   Fjord."     Now  we  met   a  party  of    English 
tourists,  bent  upon  enjoying  themselves.    Donkeys  are 
drawn  up  in  line  for  them  to  pa3s  as  we  push  on,  with 
Noah,  in  front.     One  said  "Hvor  meget,"  pointing  to 
Noah's  stick ;  probably  he  took  us  for  Norwegian  gipsies. 
Noah,  made  no  demur.     The  fir  staff  was  in  the  English- 
man's hands  in  two  seconds,  whilst  the  gipsy  pocketed 
two   coins,  which,  we  believe,  made  him  one  mark  two 
skill  ings  richer.     Our  passing  was  so  hasty,  that  nothing 
more  was  said,   as  the  jovial  party,  with  mugh  glee, 
carried  with  them  Noah's   staff,  as  a  souvenir  of  the 
incidents  of  travel. 

Noah  was  well  chaffed  by  Zachariah  and  Esmeralda. 
Noah  was  in  high  glee ;  he  had  sold  the  stick  he  had 
picked  up  yesterday,  for  one  mark  two  skiUings. 
Mephistopheles  was  miserable  with  vexation,  that  he 
had  not  a  fir  stick,  to  sell  at  one  mark  two  skillings,  to 
some  English  tourist.  A  division  was  even  suggested. 
As  the  shorengro  of  the  party,  we  should  have  come 
in  for  the  lion's  shara  Nay,  there  is  a  precedent  in 
Isaac  Walton,  where  the  gipsies  divide  a  sovereign. 
Esmeralda  supported  the  idea,  but  the  suggestion  was 
without  result. 

Very  shortly  after  we  had  passed  Ulnoes  church,  we  saw 
a  peasant  standing  on  the  roadside.  His  gaard  was  not 
far  from  the  road.  At  first,  when  we  asked  him,  he  said 
he  had  no  fladbrod,  but  afterwards  said  "  Ya."  Esme- 
ralda and  ourself  went  down  to  his  house.  First,  he 
brought  down  two  very  large  rounds  of  fladbrod.     When 

ti  u  2 


452  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

we  gave  him  a  mark,  he  gave  us  half  a  mark  back,  and 
brought  four  more  large  rounds  down-  One  large  round 
of  fladbrod  generally  costs  two  skillings. 

It  is  difficult  to  purchase,  even  fladbrod,  in  harvest 
time  :  most  of  the  peasants  are  away  from  their  houses. 
If  we  had  not  been  provided  with  a  good  commissariat, 
and  had  trusted  to  what  provisions  we  could  purchase, 
our  party  would  have,  indeed,  fared  very  badly  during 
their  wanderings. 

It  was  now  getting  dusk.  We  were  near  the  shores 
of  the  Strand  Fjord ;  nothing  but  inclosures  met  our 
view  on  either  side  the  road ;  we  must  soon  camp  some- 
where. It  was  nearly  nine  o'clock,  when  we  came 
to  a  steep,  barren,  stony  bank  above  the  road.  The 
upper  portion  was  scantily  wooded  with  birch  trees 
and  bushes.  Hobson's  choice.  The  donkeys  were  un- 
loaded, a  fire  lighted,  and  our  baggage  put  on  the  only 
available  ground,  behind  a  low  rock,  just  above  the  road. 

Our  aftens-mad  was  not  lively.  Midges  and  musketos 
attacked  us  on  every  side.  Esmeralda  got  the  water  for 
tea  from  the  fjord;  she  had  to  go  from  the  road,  across 
some  enclosure,  belonging  to  a  cottage  near.  The  woman 
shortly  after  came  up  to  the  road  fence.  Mephistopheles 
was  interrogated  in  Norsk.  Mephistopheles  did  not 
understand  a  word  the  woman  said.  Mephistopheles 
was  extremely  civil,  saying  "  Ya,  ya,"  to  every  question 
she  asked.  At  length  she  wound  up  with  "  Hvor 
fra"  (where  from?).  To  which  Mephistopheles  an- 
swered, "  Coryadreadaminch."  The  woman  immediately 
left. 

Very  soon  after  we  had  halted,  the  loss  was  announced 
of  the  brass  fishing-reel,  from  the  fishing-rod,  Zachariali 


THE  BEBOINE  OF  OUR  BOOK.  453 

had  been  using.     Zachariah  had  forgotten  to  take  it  off 
the  rod  in  the  morning. 

Notwithstanding  our  tent  was  pitched  on  the  only 
available  spot,  consisting  of  loose  angular  stones,  in 
spite  of  midges  and  musketos,  we  were  soon  sound 
asleep.  The  English  gipsies  in  Norway,  were  long  past 
that  deplorable  state  of  modern  effeminacy,  when  you 
are  unable  to  sleep  comfortably  on  a  gorse  bush,  with  a 
bundle  of  thorns  for  a  pillow. 

It  had  thundered,  and  lightened,  and  rained  heavily  in 
the  night.  We  were  all  fearfully  bitten  with  musketos. 
Noah  had  been  unable  to  sleep ;  Esmeralda  not  much 
better.     Mephistopheles  slept  the  best. 

Being  Saturday,  the  13th  August,  we  were  anxious  to 
secure  a  good  camping-ground  for  our  Sunday's  rest,  and 
another  day  of  quiet  and  repose.  At  three  o'clock  in  the 
morning  our  gipsies  struck  the  tents.  The  frokost  con- 
sisted of  tea,  bacon,  potatoes,  cheese,  and  fladbrod. 
Esmeralda  was  rather  bilious,  with  a  sore  lip.  Our  anxiety 
was  great  for  the  health  of  our  Hobbenengree.  Supposing 
anything  happened  to  Esmeralda,  the  heroine  of  this 
book  would  be  lost ;  and  what  is  a  book  without  a 
heroine  ?  The  Birmingham  bagman  would  at  once 
decline  the  work,  as  not  according  to  contract.  It 
would  have  been  utterly  impossible  to  supply  her  loss. 
There  is  no  second  Esmeralda — none  like  her.  In 
truth,  with  all  her  tempers,  all  her  faults,  Esmeralda  was 
the  spirit  of  our  wanderings.  The  pure  Romnechal  of 
our  expedition. 

Our  donkeys  were  nearly  loaded,  when  we  were  sur- 
prised by  the  apparition  of  a  tall  seaman,  standing  in 
the  road  close  by.     He  informed  us  he  had  stayed  the 


454  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

night  at  the  house  near — the  same,  prohably,  where 
our  friend,  the  woman  of  the  previous  evening,  lived. 
His  ship  had  been  lost  near  Throndhjem,  and  he  was  now 
going  to  Bergen.  Had  been  in  America ;  spoke  English 
very  well,  with  a  strong  American  accent.  We  gave 
him  a  dram  of  brandy,  and  two  skillings ;  whereupon  lie 
said,  **  It's  d —  d  bad  for  you  not  speaking  Norsk,''  and 
wishing  us  a  good  voyage,  departed. 

Before  six  o'clock  we  were  en  route.  The  rain  had 
laid  the  dust ;  the  morning  was  cloudy.  There  were 
two  fishermen's  boats  on  the  Strand  Fjord.  We  passed 
the  Strand  Kirke.  The  scenery  was  very  picturesque, 
rocks  towering  above  us  on  our  left,  the  Strand  Fjonl 
on  our  right.  Some  goats  were  racing  and  jumping  on 
the  narrow  crags  of  a  steep  precipice  above  us. 

Coming  to  some  saw-miUs,  we  crossed  a  wild  ravine. 
Shortly  after  passing  through  a  fir  wood,  we  came  in  sigbt 
of  the  Fagemoes  station.  A  shop  is  said  to  be  attached 
to  it.  Upon  inquiry,  we  found  they  had  no  shop,  and 
we  could  not  purchase  anything.  Some  people  came 
out  to  look  at  our  donkeys,  and  we  were  soon  en  route. 

The  district  through  which  we  now  passed  seemed 
more  populated,  and  is  called  North  Aurdal.  Two 
English  tourists  overtook  us ;  one  had  a  fishing-basket^ 
and  said  he  had  not  had  much  sport.  He  shortly 
after  changed  horses  with  a  post-man,  opposite  a  large 
building  to  our  right.  At  first  we  took  it  for  a  gentle- 
man's mansion.  It  was  the  second  building  of  stone,  we 
had  seen,  since  we  left  Lillehammer.  All  was  neatne^^s, 
with  a  drive  to  it  from  the  road.  When  the  English 
tourist  changed  horses  in  the  road,  opposite  the  entrance, 
we  thought  it  might  be  a  very  first-class  station.    "WTien 


AURDAL  CHURCH.  455 

^ve  carae  up,  and  had  some  conversation  with  a  very 
pleasant,  well-dressed  Norwegian,  who  was  standing  at 
the  entrance,  we  found  it  was  the  gaol  of  the  North 
AurdaL  He  spoke  English  well,  and  had  been  in 
America.  It  is  very  probable  he  was  the  governor. 
They  have  a  nice  church  at  Aurdal,  and  a  pleasant  grave- 
yard, close  to  the  road.  The  wooden  crosses  were  in  the 
usual  style.  There  was  one  simple  marble  monument, 
bearing  an  inscription  ;  we  notice  it,  for  its  brevity— 

CliriBtopheT  Bogge 

Todt  21  April,  1863, 

Dod  Nov.,  1866. 

As  we  came  towards  the  Frydenland  station,  there 
were  many  houses  along  the  roadside  ;  some,  apparently, 
for  private  residence.  Two  well-dressed  young  ladies 
passed  us,  and  one  smiled  so  pleasantly,  that  we  could  not 
omit  the  poUteness  of  lifting  our  hat. 

The  Frydenland  station  is  close  to  the  road,  and 
seemed  very  comfortable.  They  have  a  good-sized 
sitting-room,  with  a  sofa,  and  all  is  exceedingly  clean. 
The  mistress  was  very  civil  and  attentive.  Whilst  she  pro- 
vided us  with  three  loaves  of  excellent  bread,  and  a  pound 
of  good  butter,  we  discussed  a  bottle  of  baiersk  ol  in  the 
sitting-room.  Noah  and  Zachariah  came  in  for  their 
share.  Esmeralda  took  charge  of  our  baggage  outside. 
Our  bread,  butter,  and  bottle  of  61  cost  two  marks  twelve 
skillings.  As  we  came  out  into  the  road,  the  donkeys 
had  found  their  admirers.  A  tall  old  gentleman  with  an 
immense  hat,  a  stout  lady,  and  a  young  lady,  from  a 
neighbouring  house,  and  several  people,  were  inspecting 
OUT  animals   and  baggage.     As  we  left,  we  exchanged 


466  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

good-humoured  salutations,  and  their  looks  implied  their 
best  wishes  for  our  hon  voyage. 

About  twelve  o'clock  we  approached  to  very  nearly 
the  turn  from  the  main  road  towards  "  Kroemmermoen." 
Coming  to  a  large  wooden  trough  on  the  roadside, 
supplied  with  clear  water  by  a  wooden  spout  from  the 
rocks  above,  we  called  a  halt.  On  the  opposite  side  the 
road,  a  convenient  space  had  been  left,  with  a  long 
wooden  bench  for  travellers  to  sit  upon.  This  is  an 
excellent  provision  for  the  convenience  of  the  wayfarer, 
which  might  be  copied  with  advantage  in  England. 
Below  the  stone  wall,  along  the  roadside,  the  ground 
sloped  to  a  valley. 

Our  baggage  was  all  heaped  behind  the  bench  against 
the  wall.  A  fire  was  lighted  in  the  rocks  above  the  road, 
and  our  water  soon  boiled  for  tea^  A  peasant,  who  lived 
at  a  house  near,  soon  came  down  the  road.  He  was  a 
strong,  powerful,  intelligent-looking  man,  dressed  in 
leather  knee-breeches,  woollen  stockings,  large  shoes,  one 
brace,  and  a  spotted  woollen  shirt.  The  man  was  soon 
joined,  by  two  comely,  young,  good-humoured  females, 
probably  his  daughters.  Then  a  peasant  woman  came 
from  another  house ;  soon  after,  a  tall  man  came  from 
we  don't  know  where.  Peen  gioere  !  Peen  gioere  !  they 
all  exclaimed,  as  they  gazed  in  bewildered  admiration  at 
our  donkeys.  Out  came  the  flask.  We  like  to  have  our 
things  admired.  Out  came  the  tobacco,  and  the  man  in 
leather  breeches,  borrowed  a  pipe  from  the  tall  man,  and 
began  to  smoke.  We  were  evidently  looked  upon  as 
strolling  actors  of  the  better  sort ;  yet  the  donkeys  were 
their  chief  delight.  Then  they  were  much  interested  in 
our  mode  of  making  our  tea  in  the  Australian  fashion, 


THE  SEVERE  YOUNG  LADY.  457 

putting  the  tea  into  the  boiling  water,  and  reversing  the 
usual  mode.  At  length  all,  except  one  woman,  and  one 
or  two  children,  left  us.  After  the  sardines  were  gone 
we  presented  the  woman  with  the  empty  sardine  box, 
whereupon  she  seized  us  by  the  hand,  and  shook  hands, 
and  immediately  afterwards  left,  probably  to  place  it  in 
the  strong  armoire  of  her  salle  K  manger. 

Then,  as  we  were  at  our  middags-mad,  a  carriage  and 
pair  came  in  view,  en  route  towards  Bergen.  Our- 
Tamo  Eye  stood  in  the  road.  Noah  was  detached,  but 
the  Tamo  Rye  took  himself  oflf  to  the  roadside,  as  soon 
as  he  saw  the  carriage. 

The  skydskarl  was  driving.  A  young  lady  was  seated 
in  front  by  the  driver.  An  old  gentleman  and  lady, 
probably  her  parents,  were  behind.  Never  shall  we 
forget  the  young  lady  as  the  carriage  came  near  our 
Tamo  Rye.  With  desperate  eagerness  she  suddenly 
snatched  the  whip  from  the  boy.  Then  she  dealt  with 
all  her  might  one  vigorous  stroke  at  our  Tamo  Rye,  who 
was  quietly  standing  on  the  roadside.  We  were  amused 
at  the  expression  of  determination,  and  serious  earnestness 
her  countenance  assumed.  It  is  dreadful  to  think  that 
our  gallant  Tamo  Rye,  after  all  his  wanderings,  was  so 
nearly  annihilated.  What  would  Esmeralda  have  done  ? 
Fortunately  our  Tamo  Rye,  like  the  little  jackdaw,  in 
the  Ingoldsby  legend,  was  never  a  penny  the  worse. 

Immediately  after  the  carriage  passed  us,  we  saw  what 
we  at  once  knew  before,  that  she  was  English.  A  heavy 
shower  of  rain  came  on  soon  afterwards,  and,  covering 
our  baggage  with  the  waterproof,  we  all  availed  ourselves 
of  the  same  shelter.  Our  friend,  the  Norwegian  farmer, 
came  down  the  road  through  the  pouring  rain,  and  asked 


458  TSNT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

US  to  take  shelter  in  Ms  house.  We  explained  that  our 
coveriDg  was  waterproof.  He  said  something  about  our 
being  wanderers,  pointing  good-naturedly  towards  liis 
house,  and  then  left.  He  had  come  through  the  rain 
himself,  to  offer  us  shelter  and  hospitality. 

The  rain  cleared  a  little  at  half-past  four  o'clock,  and 
we  left  at  five.  The  farmer  came  down  again.  We 
gave  him  one  of  our  gipsy  songs  as  a  souvenir,  and  he 
seemed  much  pleased.  Afterwards,  he  came  and  showed 
us  the  turn  from  the  Bergen  and  "  Gjovig  '*  road  to 
Kroemmermoen.  Shaking  hands,  he  left  us,  with  many 
wishes  for  our  prosperous  journey. 

The  road  towards  Kroemmermoen  was  similar  to 
one  of  our  English  country  lanes,  very  pleasant,  and 
picturesque.  At  times  we  passed  through  thick  fir 
woods  open  to  the  road.  It  soon  rained  heavily.  Noah 
and  Zachariah  had  no  overcoats  or  change,  and  were 
obliged  to  take  their  wetting  philosophically.  At  some 
places  we  tried  for  fladbrod,  but  in  vain.  One  woman 
came  across  a  field,  with  wild  fruit  to  sell  us.  We  did 
not  take  the  fruit ;  but  as  she  stood  in  the  wet,  we  could 
not  help  giving  her  some  recompense.  Ultimately,  we 
came  to  the  edge  of  a  tremendous  declivity.  -  If  you 
make  a  zigzag  road  down  the  outside  of  St.  Paul's,  you 
have  got  it.  A  very  small  piece  of  broken  ground  lay 
on  our  right,  at  the  edge  of  the  steep  precipitous  descent. 
On  this  we  drove  the  donkeys.  Just  then,  up  drove  a 
carriole,  and  we  recognised  one  of  the  young  gentlemen 
from  Lomen.  The  carriole  was  one  of  the  l^est  we  had 
seen,  and  was  drawn  by  a  beautiful  Norwegian  pony. 
Directly  the  pony  caught  sight  of  our  donkeys,  out  got 
our  friend,  with  the  inevitable  p-r-r-rh  p-r-r-r-rh.     The 


IMPULSE  AND  REASON,  459 

pony,  with  Noah's  assistance,  was  safely  led  past.     Then 
our  Norwegian  friend  came  to  us,  and  we  conversed,  as  well 
as  our  knowledge  of  each  other's  language  would  allow. 
When  he  was  gone,  Noah  and  Zachariah  were  dispatched 
to  seek  a  camp-ground,  lower  down  the  hill,  nearer  to 
Kroemmermoen.      We  were  now   above  the  deep  and 
charming  valley  of  Lille  Bang. '  The  rain  drizzled  down 
occasionally,  as  we  stood  on  the  broken  ground,  at  the 
edge  of  a  deep,  wooded  steep.     One  donkey  lay  down 
with  its  load.    Esmeralda  in  her  long  cloak,  paced  the 
wet  turf,  hot,  and  fiery.     Our  beautiful  Puru  Rawnee 
had   given  her  some   offence.     It  seldom  rains  but  it 
pours.     The  Tarno  Rye  had  escaped   a  young  English 
lady,  and  now  our  Puru  Rawnee,  was  to  be  knocked 
down  by  the  heroine  of  our  book     Very  likely  1     Sup- 
posing   our  Puru   Rawnee  killed !    what  then  ?      The 
Birmingham  bagman  will  refuse  his  two  copies.    "  You've 
fallen  short.     Don't  find  the  Puru  Rawnee  at  the  end  ; 
contract  not  complete."    Esmeralda  makes  a  dash  at  our 
beautiful  donkey ;  her  dark  eyes  flash  fire.     The  spirit 
of  the  young  English  lady  pales  before  her.     If  the 
young  English  lady  had  been  there,  it  is  probable  she 
would  have  learned  a  lesson  in  humanity.     We  inter- 
posed. Fancy  a  studious,  thoughtful,  wanderer  of  nature, 
staying,  for  the  moment,  the  torrent  of  impetuous  feeling 
of  the  tall  handsome  gipsy-girl,  Esmeralda,  about   to 
overwhelm  the  beautiful  Puru  Rawnee,  at  the  edge  of 
a  wooded  steep,  in  the  mizzling  rain,  of  a  Norwegian 
summer's  eve  !     Gipsies  are  creatures  of  impulse.     Few 
words   said  we.     Strong,  and  impetuous   as  were  the 
passions  of  our  heroine,  she  had  a  heart — at  times,  could 
deeply  feel.     The  Puru  Rawnee  escaped  unhurt. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 


Helpe  me  wonder,  her*s  a  booke 

Where  I  would  for  ever  looke* 

Never  did  a  gipsie  trace  ^ 

Smoother  lines  in  hands  or  face ; 

Venus  here  doth  Saturne  move, 

That  you  should  be  the  Queene  of  Love. 

Masque  of  Gipsies.    Bxir  JomoTS.* 

THE  GIPSY  SIGNAL — OUR  AUSTRALIAN  MEAT — THE  FAIR  POETESS— OUR 
FRIEND  PROM  EI8B0D  ILt— THE  RYE*8  UNWELL — THE  LEHNSMCEND  OP 
BANG — THE  FERRYMAN  AND  SON — WE  CROSS  THE  BEINA~TATER8FR0G 
—  A  KIND  FAMILY  —  8T0RSVEEN  STATION  —  SECLUDED  ,  VALLEY  —  A 
TOURIST  LELS  US — ESMERALDA'S  ADVENTURE —THE  PEASANT  WOMEX's 
SONG — SORUM  STATION — TENTS  PITCHED  BY  A  LAGOON  —  N(ES— SO 
H0R8EB0AT — IMPROMPTU  H0R8EB0AT — HOW  WE  GOT  ACROSS — A  RIVER 
SCENE. 

In  a  short  time,  Esmeralda  and  ourself  slowly 
descended  the  steep  winding  road  towards  Kroemmer- 
moen,  as  we  heard  the  gipsy's  whistle  in  the  distance. 
Evening  was  fast  closing.  The  road  wound  zigzag 
round  the  head  of  a  deep  gorge.  Soon  afterwards,  to  our 
left  above  the  road,  we  saw  Noah,  with  a  fire  blazing  in 
the  rocks. 

•  This  author,  by  many  ranked  Becond  to  Shakspeare,  was  bom  1574, 
and  rising  by  his  own  perseverance,  and  energy  of  mind,  became,  in  1619, 
Poet  Laureate.  Many  of  the  dramatic  pieces  of  Jonaon  were  masques  per- 
formed before  the  King  and  Court.  Jonson,  when  he  was  appointed  Poet 
Laureate,  made  a  journey  on  foot  from  London  to  Scotland.  When  met,  it 
is  said,  by  Dninmiond  of  Hawthomden  (to  whom,  amongst  other  friends,  he 
paid  a  visit),  Drununond  said,  "  Welcome,  welcome,  royal  Ben  !"  to  which 


KROSMMERMOEN.  461 

It  was  a  retired  nook  of  the  road,  whicli  had  been 
almost  made  on  purpose.  The  last  of  our  Cheddar  cheese 
was  brought  out  for  our  evening  meal.  The  cheese  had 
kept  good  through  all  our  wanderings.  We  had  also  tea, 
broiled  ham,  and  what  remained  of  our  fladbrod.  A  few 
people  passing  down  the  road,  came  up  to  our  tents. 
Night  closed  in,  and  the  wanderers,  after  their  long  day's 
journey,  were  soon  soundly  asleep. 

Heavy  rain  fell  in  the  night.  We  were  up  in  good 
time  next  morning.  For  frokost,  we  had  biscuits,  and 
butter  and  tea.  The  morning  was  showery  ;  but  many 
visitors. came  to  see  us.  Then  the  Lehnsmoend,  a  brother, 
we  think,  of  the  Freest  of  Bang,  came  to  our  tents.  The 
herre  had  a  young  lady,  we  believe  a  niece,  with  him.  He 
was  a  pleasant,  gentlemanly  man,  who  spoke  English 
very  well.  After  we  had  shown  him  our  tents,  he  said, 
if  we  stayed  the  next  day,  he  should  be  happy  to 
introduce  us  to  his  brother.  As  he  left  our  camp,  we 
presented  him  with  our  gipsy  song,  as  a  souvenir. 

A  tin  of  preserved  Australian  meat  was  opened.  Eeally 
this  meat,  is  excellent.  What  could  be  better  ?  Even 
our  gipsies  were  perfectly  satisfied,  and  thoroughly 
enjoyed  it.  With  some  boUed  potatoes,  we  made  an 
excellent  middags-mad. 

At  five  o'clock  we  sent  Noah  and  Zachariah  down  to 
Kroemmermoen   to   buy  bread.      They  met   with    our 

Jonson  aptly  replied,  "Thank  you  !  thank  you,  Hawthornden  !"  "The 
Masque  of  Matamorphosd  Gypsies"  was  presented  to  King  James  at 
"Burleigh,"  "  Belvoir,"  and  Windsor.  A  printed  copy  we  have  is  dated 
1621.  Jonson  wrote  to  the  last ;  but,  after  some  years  of  great  literary 
success,  and  prosperity,  he  died,  1637,  in  needy  circumstances,  and  was 
huried  in  Westminster  Abbey,  the  only  inscription  on  the  poet's  tomb 
being  "  O  rare  Ben  Jonson  ! " 


4G2  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

friend  from  Eisbod,  on  the  Bygdin  Lake.     He  had  been 
taken  ill,  and  could  not  proceed  on  his  journey. 

Whilst  they  were  away,  some  young  ladies  came  to 
our  camp,  and  sat  on  the  rocks  near.  At  last  one  bo^ed 
to  Esmeralda,  who  spoke  to  her,  and  asked  her  to  take  a 
seat  in  our  tent;  but  she  hesitated.  We  went  to  them. 
They  seemed  much  interested  in  our  tent  life.  The 
young  lady,  who  spoke  English,  said  she  was  merely  a 
visitor  at  Bang.  She  expatiated  on  the  beauties  of  the 
valley,  and  then  she  asked  us,  if  we  would  kindly  give 
her  one  of  our  songs.  She  said  she  had  written  some 
verses  herself,  and  begged  our  acceptance  of  them.  The 
young  Norwegian  lady  had  very  pleasing  manners — 
something  winning  and  charming.  Perhaps  she  had  not 
the  highest  type  of  beauty ;  still  there  was  a  power  to 
fascinate,  such  as  we  had  not  often  met  with,  even  in 
those  of  a  more  perfect  mould — a  softness,  a  gentleness  of 
manner,  always  accompanied  with  goodness  of  disposition, 
and  kindness  of  heart  Poetry !  Yes ;  it  vibrated  in 
every  word  she  spoke.  Could  we  refuse  her  anything  ? 
Two  copies  of  our  songs  were  brought  forth  from  the 
recesses  of  our  tin  ,box.  We  presented  one,  to  our  fair 
visitor,  and  the  other,  to  one  of  her  friends.  There  was  a 
third ;  but  unfortunately  we  had  forgotten  there  were 
three  lady-visitors.  The  verses  presented  to  us  we  shall 
prize.  Reader,  we  must  give  them  place  in  this  account 
of  our  wanderings.  Our  book  would  be  incomplete  with- 
out them. 

The  following  are  the  Norwegian  verses.  The  transla- 
tion we  have  had  made,  is  also  given  with  them.  Our 
readers  will  not  now  be  surprised  that  we  admired  the 
beautiful  scenery  of  Lille  Bang. 


ULLE  BANG.  463 

1. 

Hvor  deiligt  er  det  liUe  Bang 

Naturen  mig  indbyder, 
Til  ret  at  stemme  i  en  Sang 

Som  udaf  Hjertet  Ijder. 

2. 

Hvad  er  det  dog  som  mangier  her  ? 

Alt  i  en  skjon  Forening, 
Natorens  Kroefler  i  sig  bier 

Deroni  er  kun  een  Mening. 

a 

Sig  Fjeldet  alynger  i  en  Kranda 

Om  Dalens  Yndigheder ; 
Hvor  Elven  i  en  lang  Runddandsy 

Let  gjennem  denne  swoevec* 

4 

Ved  Siden  af  den  stille  Elv, 

Sig  frem  med  Bulder  troenger, 
Det  rige  store  Fossevoeld, 

Og  Klippens  Masser  apranger. 

5. 

£i  heller  Skovens  Donkelhed, 

Man  blandt  det  Andet  Bayner, 
Thi  Fjeldet  prydet  er  denned, 

Og  Dalens  Skyod  den  favner. 

6. 

Hvad  staaer  der  da  tilbage  som, 

Det  liUe  Bang  ei  eier  ? 
Hvis  du  det  kan  saa  Kom  o  Kom 

Katuren  alt  opveier. 


Sweet  lille  Bang,  delightful  spot ; 

Nature  herself,  impelling, 
Bids  me  pour  forth  such  tuneful  song, 

That  now  my  heart's  o'erwelling. 

What  now,  then,  may  be  wanting  ? 

All  Nature's  powers  combine, 
With  order  and  with  harmony. 

To  perfect  the  design. 


464  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

The  Fjeld-slopes'  flowery  garlandB 

En  wreath  the  little  dale  ; 
And,  winding  in  and  outwards. 

The  rippling  streams  prevaiL 

Yet,  'twixt  the  banks  so  stilly, 

The  murmuring  waters  flow, 
Till  down  a  rapid  torrent, 

Restless,  on  they  go. 

Nor  wanting  from  the  gloam-land, 

'Mid  the  grove's  secluded  alley, 
Is  the  eider  duck  to  give  some  life 

To  hill-side  and  to  valley. 

What  charm  is  there  yet  wanting, 

Which  lille  Bang  has  not  ? 
Her  voice  invites  all  Nature 

To  show  a  fairer  spot 

Noah  and  Zachariah  returned  with  the  kagebrod,  dark, 
heavy  bread,  with  carraway  seeds  in  it.*  Our  friend 
from  Eisbod  had  sent  to  say,  he  would  come  up  to  our 
camp,  if  well  enough.  They  had  also  made  acquaintance, 
with  an  old  Norwegian,  who  resided  near  the  village. 
He  showed  them  his  violin,  for  which  he  wanted  four 
dollars. 

After  we  had  finished  our  tea,  bread,  and  butter,  more 
visitors  arrived.  One  peasant  was  an  important  repre- 
sentative of  royalty.  He  wore  a  large  waistcoat;  on 
every  button  he  had  a  photograph  of  some  potentate. 
The  King  and  Queen  of  Sweden,  the  Prince  and  Princess 
of  Wales,  and  the  King  of  Sardinia,  were  among  the 
number.  His  waistcoat,  in  fact,  included  nearly  all  the 
crowned  heads  of  Europe.    After  tea,  we  sat  in  the  rocks 

*  Not  unlike  coarse  rye   bread,  we  have  eaten  in    Germany,  called 

**  Pumpernickel,"  but  whence  the  derivation  of  the  name,  we  could  never 
ascertuiu. 


OUR  FRIEND  FROM  EISBOD  ILL.  466 

above  our  camp  The  evening  was  very  damp,  and 
showery.  When  we  returned,  our  visitors  were  still 
sitting  by  our  tents.  Notwithstanding  heavy  rain,  they 
continued  until  about  nine  o'clock. 

It  was  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  when  we  were 
stiiring.  The  Tamo  Rye's  back  was  much  chafed.  The 
donkeys  had  eaten  the  best  part  of  one  of  our  pocket 
handkerchiefs,  the  day  before.  For  frokost  we  had  tea, 
black-bread,  and  cheese. 

The  morning  was  cloudy,  as  we  left  our  camp  at  half- 
past  six  o'clock.  '  We  did  not  feel  so  well  as  usual.  Our 
health  had  been  excellent  throughout  As  we  passed  a 
cottage,  the  gipsies  pointed  out  the  old  man's  house,  with 
its  flag,  and  large  stone,  with  a  photograph  let  into  it,  of 
his  majesty  Carl  John.* 

When  we  came  to  the  Kroemmermoen  station  soon 
afterwards,  Noah  and  Zachariah  were  sent  to  buy  bread, 
and  wire  at  the  shop.  The  station  is  apparently 
exceedingly  comfortable.  Rsmeralda  went  on  with  the 
baggage.  Going  up  stairs,  we  were  shown  into  our 
friend's  bed-room.  Our  friend  from  Eisbod  was  in  bed 
looking  very  pale  and  unwell.  Something  had  disagreed 
with  him,  and  he  had  not  been  well  since  he  left  Skogstad. 
Apparently  he  had  a  severe  attack  of  diarrhoea.  Our 
bread  cost  us  one  mark,  potatoes  four  skillings,  and  wire 
ten  skillinga 

As  we  left  our  friend,  he  said  he  should  try   and 


•  Bemadotte  ascended  the  throne  of  Norway  in  1818,  as  CarlJohn  XIV. ; 
died  8th  of  March,  1844 ;  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  Oscar  I.,  who  died 
1859.  His  son  ascended  the  throne  as  King  Carl  XV.,  who  died  18th  Sep- 
tember, 1872,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  brother,  Oscar  XL,  the  present 
king  of  Norway. 

u  H 


466  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

continue  his  journey  the  same  morning.  It  seemed  as  if 
we  were  ever  destined  to  pass,  and  repass,  and  meet 
continually. 

When  we  overtook  our  baggage  shortly  after,  near  the 
village  church  of  Bang,  we  found  our  lady  visitors  of  the 
previous  day,  and  the  Lehnsmoend,  and  their  friends, 
assembled,  to  give  us  their  parting  good  wishes.  Much 
we  regretted,  that  bur  time  did  not  permit  us  to  stay 
another  day.  Bang  is  delightfully  situated.  However 
powerful  the  description,  there  is  much  that  the  poets 
pen,  will  fail  to  convey. 

The  Lehnsmoend,  our  agreeable  visitor  of  the  previous 
day,  the  young  gentleman  we  had  seen  at  Lomen  on  the 
Slidre  Fjord,  the  ladies,  especially  our  fair  visitor,  who 
had  given  us  the  verses,  were  as  charming  as  before.  All 
united  to  say  to  us  *^  Bon  voyagel'  as  we  left  the  lovely 
dale  of  Lille  Bang.* 

After  we  had  left  Bang,  the  road  reached  the  river  s 
bank.  Fortunately  there  was  a  horse-boat,  with  a  landing 
and  all  complete.  The  ferry-house  was  on  the  other 
side ;  the  river  Beina  was  before  us.  The  old  man  at 
the  ferry  wore  breeches  and  stockings,  and  very  large 
shoes.  He  was  h^avy,  stooping,  and  slow,  and  was 
followed  by  his  son,  who  was  his  duplicate,  in  large 
baggy  trousers,  and  immense  shoes,  and  a  shade  slower 
still.  They  were  a  perfect  study.  A  draper's  assistant 
would  have  measured  up  their  time,  at  five  minutes  the 
yard.  Both  had  a  sparkle  of  comicality  in  their  eyes,  as 
they  helped  our  gipsies  to  carry  our  baggage  from  the 
donkeys  into  the  boat.      Strange  to  say,  the  donkeys 

*  Little  Bang. 


WE  CR088  THE  BEINA.  467 

walked  on  to  the  horse-boat,  without  a  moment's  hesita- 
tion. The  old  man  rowed  with  two  very  large  oars, 
whilst  his  son  slowly  used  a  shaft. 

The  boat  reached  the  opposite  bank,  and  the  donkeys 
were  safely  landed     Two  females,  we  took  for  his  wife 
and  daughter,  came  to  a  fence  to  look  at  our  donkeys. 
The  old  man  began  to  assist  in  taking  our  baggage  on 
shore.     Presently  Mephistopheles  rushed  on  deck.     The 
old  man  was  slowly  dragging  at  a  heavy  pocket,  which 
generally  took  the  strength  of  Noah,  and  ourself,  to  lift 
on  to   the  Puru  Eawnee.      Suddenly  Mephistopheles, 
spinning  the  old  man  almost  round,  like  a  tee-to-tum, 
swung  it  over  his  shoulder  like  a  feather,  and  in  two 
seconds  deposited  it  on  shore.    We  shall  never  forget  the 
old  man's  look  of  amazement,  and  his  son's  sudden  pause 
to  take  another  look  at  Mephistopheles.     Then  Mephis- 
topheles in  his  hurry  tumbled  headlong  over  some  bags, 
to  the  amusement  of  the  two  ferrymen.  . 

It  was  found  that  a  rope  had  been  left  on  the  other 
side  the  river.  Mephistopheles  jumped  into  a  light 
pram,  and  by  his  rapidity,  almost  tumbled  the  man's  son 
into  the  bottom  of  the  boat.  Away  went  Mephistopheles, 
with  two  oars,  splashing  across  the  river.  Now  they  are 
coming  back,  the  old  man's  son  sprawling  in  the  stem,  as 
he  holds  on,  with  astonished  look  ;  whilst  Mephistopheles, 
with  fearful  irregularity,  is  sending  the  waters  of  the 
Beina  in  all  directions. 

Our  gipsies  are  screaming  with  laughter.     "  Ha,  ha ! 

Uncle  Sam  coming  from   Bosbury,  a  seaport  town  in 

England  1     Dik  the  Balo-Shero.    Look  at  Elijah !    Why, 

he's  got  a  square  nose." 

We    were    exceedingly    thankful    that    our  gipsies 

H  H  2 


468  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

tatersprog  and  English  slang  was  never  understood. 
"  Coming  from  Bosbury,"  had  reference  to  a  question,  a 
countryman  once  asked  one  of  the  tribe,  "Where's 
Bosbury  ?  "  "  Bosbury  ?  why,  it's  a  seaport  town  in  the 
middle  of  England,  with  lots  of  ships  ! "  "  Well,"  said 
the  rustic,  "  I  never  heerd  on  it  afore." 

Whilst  the  ferryman's  son  was  enjoying  his  rapid 
transit,  his  father,  mother,  and  sister,  as  we  supposed 
them  to  be,  were  enjoying  our  brandy.  Of  course,  the 
son,  when  he  did  land,  drank  "  gamle  norge "  to  his 
happy  escape.  It  was  not  the  first  aquavit  he  had  taken. 
Energy  is  catching;  they  began  to  look  quite  sharp. 
Our  transit  cost  twelve  skUlings.  Mephistopheles  played 
them  a  tune  on  his  violin.  The  ferryman  and  family 
seemed  highly  delighted.  We  left  with  their  good  wishes, 
to  continue  our  journey. 

Still  we  became  more  and  more  unwell  Slowly  we 
went  on,  until  we  came  to  a  large  gaard,  of  superior  size, 
and  comfort 

The  road  passed  through  a  large  open  meadow,  shut 
in  by  gates,  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  Near  the  river 
the  grass  had  been  newly  mown.  The  farmer,  and  some 
of  his  family,  came  to  see  the  donkeys,  which  the  gipsies 
halted  for  their  inspection.  The  farmer's  wife  asked  if 
they  stood  on  their  hind  legs.  The  people  seemed  so 
kindly ;  the  meadow  so  charmingly  situate,  on  the  banks 
of  the  broad  river,  that  we  decided  to  stay.  We  made 
the  farmer,  and  his  wife,  understand  that  we  wanted  a 
mark  of  fladbrod,  and  six  skillings'  worth  of  milt. 
Esmeralda  went  to  the  gaard  for  it.  They  nearly  filled 
one  large  can  full  of  milk.  Noah  in  the  meantime  lighted 
a  fire,  and  made  the  grod.     The  donkeys  were  driven 


A  KIND  FAMILY.  469 

across  a  dry  portion  of  the  shingly  bed  of  the  river,  to  a 
green  island  for  rest  and  shade. 

The  fanner  and  his  wife  sat  down  near  us.     It  was 

astonishing  the  kindly  interest  they  took.     We  fancy  we 

looked  ill  and  worn.     At  first  we  said  nothing  to  our 

gipsies.    It  may  probably  pass  away,  thought  we.     "Du 

courage.''  Esmeralda  soon  discovered  that  something  was 

the  matter  with  the  Rye,  and  we  told  her.     Still  we  sat 

on  the  beautiful  new  mown  turf,  gazing  on  the  rapid 

broad  flowing  river,  the  farmer,  and  his  wife  and  family 

near.     Then  the  donkeys  were  driven  back  for  us  to 

go.     Some  of  the  family  brought  green  com,  and  green 

peas,  for  the  donkeys  to  eat.    Then  we  gave  the  farmer  s 

wife  a  song,  for,  somehow,  we  seemed  to  have  established  a 

friendship  with  them.    The  farmer's  wife  seemed  anxious 

to  know  our  name ;   so   we  wrote  it  on  the  back  of 

the  song,  with  the  date.     Then  she  asked,  whose  wife 

Esmeralda  was,  and  if  we  worked  in  metals.     They  did 

not  quite  seem  to  understand,  when  we  said  we  travelled 

for  pleasure.     So  we  parted  fix)m  the  friendly  farmer, 

and  his  wife,  and  family,  at  about  twelve  o'clock,  and 

continued  our  journey. 

Passing  the  Holer  Elv,  we  came  towards  Storsveen. 
Once  a  man  came  out  of  a  wood,  hastily  put  up  his 
scythe,  and  followed  us.  He  wanted  to  see  our  donkeys. 
The  grain  is  stacked  up  in  the  fields,  sheaf  upon  sheaf, 
round  poles,  six  feet  high.  Zachariah  tried  the  river,  but 
could  not  catch  any  fish.  It  did  not  appear  there  were 
many. 

Near  Storsveen,  we  saw  a  pig  with  a  broken  nose. 
Soon  after  we  had  passed  the  turn  down  to  the  Storsveen 
Station,  we  noticed  behind  us  a  traveller.     It  was  our 


470  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

friend  from  Eisbod,  walking  after  us  with  his  knapsack. 
We  had  met  again.  Our  friend  said  he  was  much  better, 
and  was  going  to  Storsveen  ;  but  seeing  us  before  him, 
he  had  overtaken  us.  After  a  pleasant  converse,  he 
returned  to  Storsveen  Station  to  get  "a  conveyance,  and 
said  he  should  overtake  us  again. 

Struggle  as  we  would,  we  got  worse.  Our  gipsies 
noticed  it.  They  became  more  silent.  We  told  Noah 
to  camp,  at  the  first  convenient  spot  About  two 
o'clock  we  came  to  a  beautiful  part  of  the  valley. 
All  that  we  could  desire.  The  road  passed  through  an 
amphitheatre  of  green  turf,  closed  in  by  rising  rocks, 
covered  with  dense,  and  thickly  hanging  woods.  In 
front  we  had  the  broad  river.  A  dry,  level,  shingly 
beach,  stretched  out,  to  nearly  the  middle  of  the  stream. 
On  the  opposite  bank,  to  our  right,  there  was  a  mag- 
nificent clifi*,  above  the  river,  clothed  with  wood.  Tbe 
scene  was  well  suited  for  a  rest  Our  gipsies  quickly 
drove  the  donkeys  to  a  rising  hillock,  beneath  the  wood, 
a  short  distance  from  the  road,  and  pitched  our  tents. 
Our  friend  from  Eisbod,  came  soon  after  in  a  con- 
veyance. Paying  a  short  visit  to  our  camp,  he  had 
one  of  our  cigars,  a  pleasant  converse,  and  had  almost 
recovered. 

As  he  was  leaving  in  his  conveyance,  two  smart 
young  tourists  came  along  the  road ;  they  were  on  foot 
Their  whole  equipment  was  neatness,  even  to  the 
umbrella.  As,  very  far  from  well,  we  sat  near  our 
tent,  we  could  see  them  in  conference,  with  our  friend 
from  Eisbod.  Immediately  afterwards,  one  produced 
a  sketch-book,  and  apparently  sketched  the  donkeya 
Then  he  appeared  to  be  taking  a  sketch  of  our  camp, 


A   TOURIST  LEL8  US.  471 

and  Esmeralda,  and  ourself.  Noah  got  up,  and  in  an 
earnest  tone  said,  *'  They  are  *  lelling '  you,  sir,"  and 
vanished  off  to  the  river,  where  Zachariah  was  disporting 
himself  on  the  shingly  beach,  with  nothing  on  but  his 
shirt.*  They  at  last  appeared  to  have  completed  the 
sketch  of  our  donkeys,  and  camp,  for  suddenly  the  book 
was  shut.  They  took  off  their  hats  ;  we,  of  course 
returned  the  salute,  and  they  continued  their  excursion. 
If  we  had  not  been  so  unwell,  we  should  have  sought 
their  acquaintance. 

Very  quietly  we  rested  in  our  camp.  Esmeralda  did 
what  she  could.  No  one  came.  It  was  just  such  a 
spot  one  could  wish  to  die  in.  Yes ;  but  who  is  to 
write  "  Tent  Life  with  the  English  Gipsies  in  Norway  "  ? 
Where  are  the  Birmingham  bagman's  two  copies  ? 
Where  will  be  the  many  others  required,  including  that 
for  the  officer  with  the  Roman  fever?  Are  they  to 
be  disappointed  ?  No  :  we  shall  not  fail  them,  in  the 
closing  scenes  of  our  nomad  wanderings. 

Noah  came  back  before  our  aftensmad,  with  thirteen 
minnows,  and  Zachariah  three,  which  were  fried  for  tea, 
with  fladbrod  and  butter.  The  afternoon  was  beautiful, 
and  at  nine  o'clock  we  retired  to  rest. 

It  is  Tuesday,  16th  August.  JEn  route  Zachariah, 
''Vand"  "Yog."  We  are  all  up  at  half-past  three 
o'clock.  It  rained  a  little,  and  was  very  cloudy.  One 
carriole  passed  on  the  road  in  the  night,  and  another 
escrly  in  the  morning.     Noah  lighted  a  fire,  and  we  had 

*  Some  gipsies  have  an  idea  that  if  they  have  their  likenesses  taken,  it 
does  them  an  injury.  We  have  known  one  gipsy  who  would  not  he  taken. 
On  one  occasion,  when  a  gipsy  had  allowed  his  photograph  to  he  taken  to 
oblige  us,  he  said,  ^  WeU,  sir,  don't  you  lose  something  from  you,  and  are 
never  so  well  afterwards  ?*' 


472  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

Australian  preserved  meat,  and  fladbrod,  and  tea  for 
breakfast.    * 

When  the  gipsies  were  packing  up,  a  man  and  a  boy 
came  across  the  river  in  a  boat,  to  look  at  the  donkeys. 
Whilst  they  were  absent  from  their  boat,  Esmeralda 
went  to  the  river  to  wash,  and  getting  into  the  boat 
to  amuse  herself,  it  got  detached  from  the  side,  and  she 
was  floating  away,  without  oars,  into  the  middle  of  the 
river,  when  she  jumped  out  nearly  up  to  her  middle. 
This  incident,  she  did  not  relate  until  afterwards, 
thinking  we  might  be  angry  with  her,  for  getting  into 
the  boat. 

The  tents  are  struck,  the  donkeys  loaded,  and  we 
are  off  at  eight  o'clock.  The  rest  and  repose  at  our 
beautiful  camping  ground,  had  given  us  renewed  spirit. 
We  were  decidedly  better.  The  weather  cleared.  The 
road  winds,  through  a  diversified  scene,  of  thick  fir 
woods,  and  occasional  enclosures.  One  very  large  gaard 
on  the  opposite  side  the  river,  before  we  reached  Sorum, 
was  admirably  arranged  for  comfort  and  convenience. 
It  was  pleasantly  placed  above  the  river.  We  noticed  a 
pigeon-box  against  a  large  granary,  the  only  one  we  saw 
in  Non^^ay. 

Coming  to  a  delightful  spot,  near  a  stream  of  water,  in 
a  wood,  not  far  from  the  road,  we  halted.  There  were 
some  houses  on  the  other  side  the  road.  One  woman 
was  singing,  who  had  an  excellent  voice.  We  seldom 
heard  any  singing  in  Norway.  Singing  birds,  and  singing 
women,  were  scarce.  We  were  pleased  with  this  woman^s 
voice. 

Our  middag's-mad  consisted  of  Australian  meat,  flad- 
brod and  butter,   and   cheese  and  tea.     We  had  also 


80RUM  STATION.  473 

chocolate.  An  altercation  took  place  between  Noah  and 
Zachanah.  Mephistopheles  shouted,  so  loud,  we  gave  him 
a  bang  on  the  head,  which  effectually  laid  his  spirit 
low. 

At  half-past  three  o'clock,  the  party  were  again  en 
route.  The  country  was  very  pleasing;  the  weather 
delightful.  Zachariah  played,  from]time  to  time,  his  violin, 
as  we  slowly  journeyed  along.  The  Sorum  Station  is  a 
quaint  old  place.  The  road  passes  through  a  sort  of 
court  surrounded  by  wooden  buildings.  It  is  kept  by 
very  respectable  people.  We  purchased  twenty-two 
skillings*  worth  of  fladbrod  and  butter.  All  the  gens  de 
la  maison  assembled  to  see  us,  including  the  traveUer, 
who  had  passed  in  his  carriole. 

With  mutual  salutations,  we  again  left,  Zachariah  play- 
ing his  viohn,  as  we  passed  through  a  thick  forest.  Then 
we  had  more  enclosures,  and  some  pretty  rural  lanes. 
At  last,  towards  the  close  of  evening,  when  the  road 
passed  through  an  open  fir  wood,  we  noticed  a  large 
lagoon,  or  open  arm  of  the  river,  to  our  left,  on  the 
margin  of  the  wood. 

A  halt  was  called,  and  we  camped  on  the  edge  of  the 
wood,  below  the  road.  Our  tents  were  pitched  near  two 
tall  Scotch  firs,  standing  outside  the  wood,  with  a  plea- 
sant view  across  the  lagoon.  It  was  fi:om  six  to  seven 
o'clock,  when  we  halted.  Noah  and  Zachariah  went  fish- 
ing, but  without  success.  Our  aftens-mad  consisted  of 
tea,  ham,  fladbrod,  butter,  and  chocolate.  Esmeralda 
and  ourself  practised  Romany.  Our  health  was  fast 
returning— in  fact,  we  were  almost  as  well  as  usual. 

Up  at  four  o'clock.  Now,  Noah !  Zachariah !  Noah  got 
the  water,  and  our  fire  was  lighted.     We  were  just  going 


474  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

to  breakfast  at  five  o'clock,  when  three  men,  and  a  pea- 
sant woman  came  by.  They  were  going  harvesting. 
Loud  were  their  exclamations  of  "peen  giaere"  (fine 
beauty),  "  meget  peen,"  "  nei,  nei"  They  looked  curi- 
ously at  our  preparations  for  breakfast,  and  then  left. 

When  Noah  was  loading  our  donkeys,  three  men  and 
a  girl  came  to  see  the  donkeys,  and  were  surprised  at 
the  weight  they  carried.  It  appeared  we  were  at  a 
place  pronounced  like  Helgst,  about  one  furlong  from 
Noes. 

At  seven  o'clock,  pushing  onwards  along  a  pleasant 
forest  road,  we  again  came  to  enclosures.  Then  a  church 
appeared  to  view  and  a  rifle  range.  The  range  appeared 
a  very  short  one,  having  a  booth,  apparently  used  as  a 
shelter  for  the  marksmen.*  We  had  now  left  the 
Valders,  and  had  seen  some  of  the  beauties  of  the 
Aadalen.  Noes  was  at  the  upper  shore  of  the  Spirilen 
Lake,  and  it  would  be  necessary  to  cross  the  Beina  at  its 
outfall  to  the  lake. 

The  Noes  Station  is  large,  and  in  a  wooden  building 
near,  we  found  a  shop  containing  a  variety  of  goods  of  all 
sorts,  and  sizes.  First  we  bought  wooden  spoons,  and  soap, 
for  twenty-two  skillings,  and  then  some  fladbrod  for 
one  mark.  Noah  had  gone  beyond  the  house,  to  the 
ferry-boat,  on  the  lake  shore.  Esmeralda  and  ourself 
were  leaving  the  shop,  when  we  met  Noah,  with  a  gloomy 
countenance.  He  informed  us  there  was  no  horse-boat, 
and  the  donkeys  could  not  possibly  cross. 

Saying  we  should  soon  see  whether  we  could  cross,  we 
all  went  down  with  a  civil  man,  who  seemed  the  owner 

•  We  were  informed  that  the  Remington  rifle  was  generally  used  in 
Norway. 


IMPROMPTU  H0E8EB0AT.  475 

of  the  ferry,  and  premises.  After  much  talking,  he  ex- 
plained that  the  steamer  left  at  seven  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  and  it  was  now  nine  o'clock,  and  we  were  too 
late. 

Looking  at  the  two  small  boats,  we  explained  to  the 
ferryman,  that  we  must  get  across  somehow.  He  seemed 
to  catch  our  meaning ;  but  our  gipsies  shook  their  heads, 
and  said  the  poor  donkeys  would  be  drowned. 

To  continue  our  journey,  we  were  determined.  The 
obstacle  of  a  river  was  not  to  be  thought  of,  for  a  moment 
A  day  would  be  lost,  by  camping  at  Noes  until  the  next 
morning.  Although  we  might  probably  make  up  lost 
time  in  the  steamer,  still  we  preferred  going  on  by  land, 
if  possible. 

Returning  to  the  shop,  we  bought  a  pound  of  white 
sugar  for  20  skillings.  The  old  man  in  the  meantime 
appeared  with  two  men,  and  poles,  and  a  strong  tether 
rope,  and  an  axe.  Again  we  returned  to  the  sandy  beach. 
Noah  and  Zachariah  were  very  desponding  at  the  sight* 
It  looked  very  much  as  if  they  were  going  to  erect  a 
scaffold,  and  behead  the  donkeys  on  the  spot.  The 
owner  of  the  ferry  shortened  one  of  the  poles,  and  in  a 
few  minutes,  the  two  small  boats  were  securely  lashed  to 
the  two  poles,  extending  over  them  crossways.  Our 
gipsies  were  still  unable  to  disconnect  the  donkeys,  with 
anything  short  of  drowning. 

A  small  crowd  of  peasants  now  collected  to  view  the 
passage  of  the  Beina  by  the  English  gipsies  in  Norway, 
with  their  animals  and  baggage.  Most  of  the  men,  who 
chewed  tobacco,  were  dressed  in  light  jumpers,  patched 
trowsers,  and  large  heavy  boots,  without  stockings ;  the 
kind-looking  stout  female,  who  sold  us  the  fladbrod,  was 


476  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

there,  and  young  peasant  girls,  with  handkerchiefs  tied 
over  their  heads. 

The  Tamo  Eye  was  first  bridled,  and  led  to  the  "boats  by 
Zaehariah,  There  it  decidedly  refused  to  go  any  further. 
Zachariah  pulled,  Noah  lifted  at  its  hind  legs,  ourself  and 
two  men  lifted  at  the  fore  legs.  The  struggle  ended,  in 
our  fairly  carrying  the  donkey  into  the  one  boat,  at  the 
risk  of  all  coming  down  into  the  water,  together  with  one 
tremendous  splash ;  the  other  boat  was  turned  sideways, 
and  we  forced  the  Puro  Rye  into  it,  whilst  a  man  held 
its  head.  The  boats  were  quickly  rowed  oflf  by  another 
man,  and  the  animals  safely  landed. 

One  man  was  bold  enough  to  ride  one  of  the  donkeys 
to  a  wood  close  to  the  sandy  beach.  Zachariah  rowed 
back.  All  were  highly  pleased  at  the  success.  The 
Puru  Rawnee  made  a  trejnendous  fight  Zachariah  tugged, 
and  the  Puru  Rawnee  got  one  hind  leg  over  the  boat's 
side ;  but  a  stout  fellow,  who  ultimately  nearly  pushed  it 
over  Zachariah,  placed  its  leg  safe  in  the  boat  The 
baggage  was  put  in  the  other  boat,  to  balance  the  donkey, 
and  then  they  crossed  the  river. 

The  boats  retimed.  We  paid  the  man  fifteen  shillings, 
which  seemed  to  satisfy  all,  and  with  our  gipsies,  and  the 
rest  of  our  baggage,  soon  reached  the  other  side.  Several 
were  collected,  when  we  landed  :  one  gentlemanly,  well- 
dressed  Norwegian,  looked  at  our  maps,  and  pointed  out 
the  route.  Esmeralda  immediately  began  to  castigate 
her  donkey,  then  scolded  Zachariah,  and  was  in  her  turn 
scolded  by  ourself,  whilst  the  boatmen  drank  '*  gamle 
norge "  in  our  aquavit. 


CHAPTER  XL. 

They  played  on  the  guitar  until  the  warm  day  had  given  place  to  the 
starry  night.  I  sat  on  my  balcony,  and  looked  on  with  pleaanre  at 
the  gaiety  of  yonth* 

With  castanets  they  danced, 

Their  only  music  this  ; 
Their  eyes  into  each  other's  glanced, 

Quaffing  sweet  draughts  of  bliss. 

In  Spain,    Hasb  OHBianiv  AvDiBnv. 

WK  LEAVE  THE  BEINA — THE  ULLB  PIGB — ANT  PORT  IN  A  STORM — THE 
fairies'  visit — THE  SPIRILEN — ^TTRE  AADALEN  VAL — ^LARGE  BONDE- 
GAABD— HEEN  WOODLAND  CAMP — ^EVENING  VISITORS— THE  HONEFOS 
— INTELLIGENT  POSTMASTER — NORDERHOUG  CHURCH  —  HALT  NEAR 
VIK — THE  gipsies'  POLITICAL  PHILOSOPHY — NOAH  AND  THE  PHILAN- 
THROPIST— STEENS  FJORD— THE  KROGKLEVEN — BEAUTIFUL  GORGE — 
— GAMP  NEAR  THE  KING'S  VIEW. 

Noah  and  Zachariah  quickly  loaded  the  donkeys  ;*  one 
of  the  boatmen  showed  us  the  way.  We  followed  a 
track  from  the  river  through  the  wood.  An  old  boat 
near  the  river,  in  the  wood,  turned  on  one  side,  with  the 

*  Shelley,  the  poet,  during  his  totix  in  1814,  being  at  Paris,  purchased  a 
donkey  to  cany  his  baggage,  and,  by  turns,  his  two  companions  dt  voyage^ 
Mary  WoUstonecraft  Godwin,  and  her  relation,  a  lady  friend.  They  aU 
proceeded  towards  Charenton,  when  SheUey,  who  had,  probably,  made  an 
indifferent  piirchase,  discarded  the  donkey,  and  bought  a  mule  for  ten 
napoleons.  With  many  adventures,  the  party  at  length  reached  Troyes,  and 
Shelley,  having  sprained  his  ancle,  the  party  accomplished  the  rest  of  the 
journey  in  an  open  carriage. — "  Shelley  and  his  Writings,"  by  Middleton. 
1858.    Shelley  was  bom  1792,  and  was  drowned,  8th  July,  1823. 


V 


478  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

marks  of  a  fire  having  been  lighted  before  it,  showe^i 
that  it  had  been  used  as  a  bivouac. 

Passing  through  the  court  of  a  large  house,  near  the 
wood,  we  shortly  afterwards,  entered  by  a  gate  into  a 
pleasant  shady  way,  leading  along  the  left  shore  of  the 
Spirilen  Lake.  A  large  crowd  were  stiU  watching  our 
cavalcade  from  the  house. 

It  was  about  twenty  minutes  past  ten  o'clock,  when 
we  left  the  river  Beina  ;*  a  halt  was  called  at  eleven,  in  a 
wood,  on  the  shores  of  the  Spirilen, 

Our  middags-mad  consisted  of  soup,  made  of  potatoes, 
ham,  bacon,  and  Liebig's  essence,  with  addition  of  some 
grod. 

Zachariah  went  fishing,  but  was  unsuccessful.  The 
rain  commenced,  and  we  either  slept,  or  wrote  our  notes 
from  about  two  o'clock  until  four  o'clock. 

Again  we  were  all  on  the  move.  Following  the  rough 
track  through  the  fir-forest,  we  had  pleading  vistas  of  the 
lake.  Then  we  came  to  where  some  men  were  making 
a  new  road,  and  sometimes,  we  had  to  change  from  the 
old  road,  on  to  the  new  portion,  lately  opened  for  traffic ; 
passing  Bjonvicken  to  Engordden  the  road  had  enclosures, 
and  farms  on  either  side.  About  six  o'clock  we  noticed 
the  steamer  going  up  the  lake  to  Noes.  At  one  place,  we 
passed  a  new  house,  which  appeared  to  have  a  shop. 
Soon  after,  a  little  girl  followed  us  with  something 
wrapped  in  a  white  napkin.  It  occurred  to  us,  to  send 
Noah  back,  and  see  if  he  could  get  bread.  The  little  girl 
at  once  guessed  what  we  wanted,  and  told  us  bread  could 

*  Spelt  Boegna  £lv  in  the  Kristians  ampt  map.  Much  difficulty  occun 
with  regard  to  the  orthography  of  Norwegian  names,  which  are  very  often 
Bpelt  diflferently,  according  to  tiie  map  or  guide-book  in  which  they  appear. 


ANY  PORT  IN  A  STORM.  479 

be  purchased,  at  six  skillings  a  loaf.  She  was  a  neatly 
dressed,  intelligent  Httle  girl,  and  we  gave  her  3  skillings 
for  her  information ;  she  at  once  seized  our  hand,  and  said 
tak ;  soon  afterwards  she  went  into  a  house  on  the  roadside. 
There  were  nothing  but  inclosures  for  some  distance. 
The  evening  was  rapidly  closing ;  on  we  pushed :  no  camp 
ground ;  still  we  hurried  along.  We  were  now  on  a 
part  of  the  road  recently  made,  and  must  shortly  sleep 
somewhere.  At  last,  just  at  dark,  a  small  driftway  was 
noticed,  to  a  narrow  strip  of  new-mown  turf,  between  the 
road,  and  the  lake.  No  time  for  hesitation ;  the  donkeys 
w^ere  quickly  driven  down  to  the  turf.  Some  high 
bushes  formed  a  screen  from  the  road,  and  a  shelter  for 
ourselves.  A  boat  was  moored  on  the  sandy  beach  near. 
The  donkeys  were  at  once  unloaded  in  a  quiet  comer,  a 
fire  was  lighted  on  the  shore,  and  our  water  quickly 
boiled.*  Zachariah  was  on  the  look-out  for  Noah,  who  soon 
came  with  three  loaves  of  bread,  which  had  cost  a  mark. 
The  tents  were  at  once  pitched.  Our  gipsies  made  short 
work  of  tea,  bread  and  cheese.  "  Let's  gell  to  our  wood- 
rus,''t  said  Noah.  "  Cushty  ratti,'' J  said  we;  and  they  were 
soon  asleep.  It  was  a  dark  murky  night,  as  we  sat  by  the 

♦  The  tea-pot  and  kettle  are  both  called  by  our  gipaiea  "piri;"  and 
it  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  Norwegian  gipsies,  according  to  Proesten 
Sundt,  use  piri  to  mean  pot,  and  the  Turkish  gipsies  also  use  the  same 
word  piri,  with  the  same  signification. 

f  "  Let  us  go  to  bed."    The  French  gipsies  use  "  Wuddress,"  bed. 

t  Good-night.  "Cooshko,"  "  Cooshto"  "Kosko"  also  used  by  the  English 
gipsies.  "  Cushty  "  is  not  used  by  the  gipsies  of  some  countries  to  signify 
good  ;  for  instance,  the  French  gipsies  use  "  ladscho  "  and  "  mischdo."  The 
Turkish  gipsies  use  "latcho,"  good,  and  the  Norwegian  gipsies  "lattjo,'*good. 
Borrow,  in  his  work,  "The  Zincali;  or,  an  Accoimt  of  the  Qypsies  of 
Spain,"  gives  "kosko"  as  the  English  gipsy  for  "good."  Colonel  Harriot 
has  given  "  kashto  "  and  "  kashko  "  ;  and  for  "  good-night,"  "  kashko  rati," 
as  used  by  the  gipsies  of  North  Hampshire. 


480  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

dying  embers  of  our  fire.  Gradually  the  rain  inereaaed, 
and  we  retired  to  our  tent  The  turf  had  been  newly  mown, 
and  was  delicious  to  rest  upon.  We  listened  to  the  boat 
rising  and  falling  on  the  waves,  as  they  dashed  in  the 
night  wind,  on  the  sandy  shore.  It  had  rained  heavily 
during  the  night,  accompanied  by  lightning.  Between  two 
and  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  were  up,  the  morning 
was  dark  and  cloudy,  with  misty  rain.  Fire  was  lighted  ; 
Noah  warmed  up  some  simmin  (gip.,  soup),*  saved  from 
yesterday's  mid  dags-mad  :  we  had  also  tea,  and  bread  and 
d>e«,e-an  odd  combmation-whid,  was  hastily  dkpo»d 
of.  The  top  of  a  house  could  be  seen  on  the  other  side 
the  road,  close  above  us :  the  inhabitants  little  thouglit 
they  had  visitors  sleeping  just  below  them.  It  is 
probable  that  they  would  be  sorely  puzzled,  when  they 
went  for  the  boat's  paddles,  in  the  bushes  behind  our  tent, 
to  see  the  impression  on  the  turf — ^the  impression  left 
by  our  sleeping  forms.  Perhaps  they  might  think,  some 
Huldre  or  fairy  had  been  there  :  at  any  rate,  we  did  not 
wait  to  elucidate  the  occurrence,  which  may  be  involved 
in  mystery  to  this  day.  At  five  o'clock,  animals,  baggage, 
and  gipsies  were  well  on  the  road  towards  Finsarid. 

There  was  something  exciting  in  our  wanderings.  Our 
animals  still  continued  quite  equal  to  their  work,  and 
every  day  decreased  the  weight  of  the  commissariat ;  the 
weight  they  had  to  carry  was  now  much  lighter.  At 
eight  o'clock  we  halted  on  the  margin  of  an  open  bay 
of  the  Spirilen  Lake,  near  some  houses.  As  we  were 
having  another  meal  of  cold  bacon,  meat,  and  bread 
and  cheese,  and  tea,  we  saw  the  steamer  pass  down  the 

*  The   Norwegian  gipsies  use  nearly  the  same  word  for  soup,  namely 
Bummin." 


LARGE  BONDEGAAED.  481 

lake  from  Noes.     A  woman  and  a  man  came  and  wanted 
to  buy  one  of  the  donkeys. 

At  nine  o'clock,  we  were  again  on  the  move  towards 
Somdalen.  Then  we  came  to  a  narrow  channel  of  the 
lake,  through  which  the  steamers  pass  to  the  Aadals  Elv. 
The  road,  after  passing  through  Somdalen,  continued 
through  fir-forests,  and  pleasant  scenes.  At  one  part  of 
the  forest,  we  saw  some  wood  pigeons,  and  at  another,  a 
jackdaw.  When  we  had  passed  Somdalen,  we  halted 
again  ;  our  rest  was  on  a  greensward  surrounded  by  a 
stream,  in  an  open  space  below  the  road,  surrounded  by 
a  wood.  It  was  a  nice  secluded  spot.  We  halted  at  a 
quarter  to  twelve ;  the  sun  was  warm  and  pleasant ; 
we  had  tea,  fried  ham,  and  bread.  Esmeralda's  spirits 
were  in  the  ascendant.  We  left  at  twenty-five  minutes 
to  two  o'clock.  *  Our  way  was  through  beautiful  forests, 
which  reminded  us  of  some  of  the  wild  scenes  of  Aus- 
tralia As  to  Mephistopheles,  he  was  buzzing  about 
like  a  butterfly ;  we  nearly  crushed  him  once  or  twice. 

At  last  we  came  to  a  large  farm  on  the  borders  of  the 

forest,  by  Ytre  Aadalen  Val.     The  road  led  from  the 

forest,  over  a  rise   of  open  cultivated  groimd,  near  a 

large  and  convenient  gaard.    We  had  lingered  behind. 

As  we   again   came   up   with    our   gipsies,   they  were 

passing    over    the    cultivated    land    near    the    gaard. 

The    master  of    the    Bondegaard,   a  stout    man,   and 

apparently  his  wife  and  two   daughters,  and    a   large 

retinue  of  dependants,  were  grouped   to  see   us  pass. 

They  surveyed  us  with  curiosity,  but  did  not   speak. 

Scarcely  had  our  gipsies  got  out  of  hearing,  than  one 

of  the  dependants  was  the  subject  of  severe  criticism. 

**  Look  at  that  country  gorgio,"  said  Mephistopheles. 

I  I 


482  TENT  UFE  IN  NORWAY. 

"  Ha,  ha ! "  said  Esmeralda ;  "  why,  he's  a  kok-y-yock" 
(cock-eye). 

"  No,"  said  Noah  ;  "  that's  our  vamon.'** 

"  0  nei  1  0  nei  1"  said  Mephistopheles  ;  "  peen  giaere, 
peen  giaere ! " 

Somebody  was  extinguished,  and  order  was  restored. 
Gipsies,  as  a  rule,  not  being  educated,  and  having  a 
great  amount  of  gaiety,  and  physical  energy,  in  default, 
occasionally,  of  rational  conversation,  seize  upon  circum- 
stances, and  things,  of  the  most  minor  importance,  to 
occupy  their  attention,  in  a  warfare  of  Eomany  chaff 
against  everyone,  and  everything,  with  singular  expres- 
sion, tempered  with  strange  energy,  and  Uvely  spirit 

The  master  of  the  Bondegaard  was  exceedingly  stout, 
and  we  reasoned  afterwards,  upon  the  inconvenience  of 
being  so  stout,  and  the  advantage  of  a  gipsy  hfe,  in 
keeping  the  body,  in  its  proper  symmetrical  proportions. 

Now  we  are  in  the  forest  again,  and  this  portion  of 
our  route,  is  much  more  beautiful  than  we  expected 
The  Spirilen  does  not  rival  many  of  the  Norwegian 
lakes,  though  there  are  many  pleasant  scenes  along  its 
shores. 

At  this  part  of  our  route  we  saw  some  of  the  most 
lofty  spruce-fir  we  had  seen  during  our  wanderings  in 
Norway. 

We  were  now  fast  coming  towards  Heen,  where  the 
steamer  meets,  we  were  told,  the  railway  to  the  Rands 
Fjord. 

Through  the  forest  we  went     Esmeralda,  who  was  so 

•  Vernon  is  a  tall,  powerful  gipsy,  in  the  prime  of  life,  six  feet  two 
inches  high,  who  travels  England  and  Wales  with  his  tent.  His  name 
was  generally  pronounced  "  Yamon  "  by  our  gipsy,  Noah. 


BEEN,    WOODLAND  CAMP.  483 

lively  at  our  last  halt,  seemed  getting  tired,  and  wanted 
to  ride,  but  our  camp  rule  did  not  allow  it.  Again,  we 
hoped  soon  to  halt :  the  heroine  of  our  book  was  not  to 
be  neglected,  and  lost  by  the  way,  for  the  want  of  care 
and  proper  attention. 

Soon  after  we  descended  a  steep  declivity  in  the  forest, 
and  came  upon  a  charming  glade  on  a  stream,  which, 
we  believe,  is  called  the  Voels  Elv.  At  the  foot  of  the 
declivity,  flowed  its  shallow  stream  of  water.  On  the  left 
of  the  forest-way,  before  we  reached  the  stream,  we  saw 
some  open  green  turf,  secluded  by  clumps  of  forest  trees, 
and  beyond,  and  on  all  sides,  a  woodland  of  apparently 
interminable  forest,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  'Twas 
a  lovely  spot  for  the  tired  Esmeralda  to  repose. 

The  tents  were  put  up  at  once  in  the  open  glade, 
near  the  flowing  stream.  We  were  soon  engaged  writing 
letters.  Esmeralda  was  washing  at  a  fire  near  a  clump 
of  trees,  not  far  from  the  stream.  Noah  was  making  a 
basket.  A  tall  blacksmith,  as  we  supposed  him  to  be, 
carrying  a  rifle,  came  to  our  tents.  He  told  us  there 
were  wolves,  and  bears  in  the  forest.  Then  we  had 
afterwards,  a  party  of  three  gentlemen,  and  a  lady; 
they  were  very  nice  people.  One  dark,  good-looking 
young  gentleman,  spoke  English.  We  were  pleased  to 
see  them  at  our  tents.  They  inspected  our  camp, 
Russian  lamp,  cooking  apparatus,  and  our  donkeys. 
They  seemed  much  pleased.  It  would  have  given  us 
pleasure  to  have  known  more  of  them. 

It  was,  indeed,  a  beautiful  camping-ground,  in  a  large 
wild  forest.  Our  fourth  meal  this  day — for  we  had 
crowded  on  considerable  sail — consisted  of  tea,  sardines, 
bread  and  cheese.     At  nine  o'clock,  all  were  resting  in 

I  I  2 


484  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

our  tents.     It  is  noted   in  our  impressions^  that  the 
evenings  get  colder  and  shorter,  chilly  and  damp. 

Friday,  the  19th  of  August;  we  are  again  stirring 
at  twenty  minutes  past  three  o'clock.  Up  rise  our  tlire€ 
gipsies,  in  the  wild  Norwegian  forest :  en  avant  is  the 
word. 

As  we  were  standing  by  our  camp-fire,  we  heard 
footsteps ;  a  man  and  a  boy  appeared  at  that  early 
hour,  to  see  our  donkeys.  They  were  astonished  to  find 
anyone  already  up  and  moving. 

The  frokost  consisted  of  tea,  biscuits,  and  cheese. 
Our  donkeys  loaded,  we  moved  off  at  six  o'clock.  Noah 
left  his  unfinished  basket  on  our  camp-ground,  as  a 
souvenir.  Soon  we  passed  imder  the  arch  of  the  Rands 
Fjord  Railway.  Then  the  road  lay  through  enclosures, 
and  we  came  in  sight  of  Honefos. 

Before  we  entered  the  town  of  Honefos,  we  cautioned 
Mephistopheles,  as  to  propriety  of  conduct  It  was, 
perhaps,  about  nine  o'clock  ;  many  people  came  out  of 
their  houses,  and  anxiously  inquired  what  the  donkeys 
were.  Mephistopheles  called  for  a  glass  of  sherry,  and 
imitated  a  drunken  man,  until  he  was  called  to  atten- 
tion. A  civil  Norwegian  coming  up,  we  inquired  for  the 
Postaabneri  and  a  krambod. 

Keeping  Noah  with  us,  we  sent  the  donkeys  and 
^^gg^g®  through  the  town,  in  care  of  Esmeralda  and 
Zachariah.  Coming  into  a  sort  of  square,  our  first  visit 
was  the  post-ofiice ;  we  went  into  a  court-yard,  and 
entering  the  back  of  a  house,  we  soon  found  our- 
selves in  a  small  room,  with  a  kind  of  bank  counter, 
behind  which  sat  a  respectable-looking,  pale,  intelligent 

^Ji.     By  his  side,  he  had  an  ear-trumpet,  for  he  was 


THE  HONEFOS.  485 

deaf ;  behind  him,  he  had  shelves,  filled  with  books  ;  on 
his   long  table,   he  had  writing  materials,  documents, 
and  papers  relating  to  his  duties.     He  spoke  in  English 
with  a  very  good  accent ;   we  wrote  our  answers,  for  he 
uvas  deaf.     The  postage  of  our  English  letter,  was  six- 
teen  skiUings,  and  four  skillings   each  for  our  letters 
to    Christiania.      Readily  giving  us  some   information, 
about  the  steamers  with  mails  from  Christiania,  we  left 
our  civil  postmaster.     The  war  seemed  the  all-engrossing 
topic  of  the  time,  and  we  had,  of  course,  some  converse 
on  the  subject. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  the  shop,  where  we  bought  five 
pounds  of  sugar,  for  three  marks  eight  skillings ;  five 
loaves  of  bread,  for  one  mark  six  skillings ;  and,  at  a 
baker's,  we  bought  two  loaves  of  bread,  for  eight  skillings 
and  six  cakes  for  six  skillings. 

Honefos  is  a  spirited  town,  and  a  pretty  one.  Crossing 
the  Honefos  Bridge  we  soon  rejoined  our  baggage.  As 
we  ascended  a  hill,  and  continued  our  route  along  the 
new  road,  which  is  being  made,  we  had  a  beautiful  view 
of  the  town. 

A  French  gentleman,  who  was  driving  towards  the 
Honefos,  had  asked  Esmeralda  and  Zachariah,  if  they 
were  French. 

Soon  afterwards  we  came  to  an  iron  mile-stone,  marked 
five  miles  to  Christiania  og  Dramen  (thirty-five  English 
miles). 

Then  we  saw  Norderhoug  churcL  It  is  large,  aa 
compared  with  many  of  the  Norwegian  churches  we 
had  seen.  The  parsonage  and  village  have  an  air  of 
substantial  comfort.  Geese  and  ducks,  and  cherry-trees 
were  seen  for  the  first  time  during  our  wanderings  in 


480  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

Norway.  This  village  is  noted  for  the  destruction  of 
a  small  Swedish  force,  which  was  quartered  at  the 
Parsonage  House  in  1716. 

Still  following  onwards  along  our  route,  we  came  to 
enclosed  lands,  which  appeared  qnite  as  fertile  as  any 
we  had  seen.  Here  and  there,  the  harvest  people  wonld 
hurry  towards  the  road  fence,  to  catch  a  sight  of  our 
donkeys,  as  they  passed.  Some  asked  one  question, 
some  another.  Our  gipsies  answered  wildly  any  Nor- 
wegian word  at  hand,  or  ya !  ya !  Now  we  meet  a 
carriage  and  pair,  and  the  gentleman  tak^  off  his  hat, 
which  we  of  course  acknowledge. 

At  length  we  halt  on  the  right  of  the  road  on  tte 
hill  above  "  Vik  Station,"  on  some  rocky  open  ground. 

It  was  twelve  o'clock.  Our  gipsies  obtained  some 
water  for  our  tea  at  the  Vik  Station  from  their  private 
supply.  A  servant  girl,  and  man,  with  some  childreii 
from  the  station,  brought  our  donkeys  some  grass.  It 
was  a  kindly  thought.  The  sun  was  warm  as  we  sat 
amid  the  rocks  and  heath.  Whatever  faults  our  gipsies 
have  they  are  not  tainted  with  Fenianism  or  Com- 
munistic ideas.  They  have  ever  held  for  Monarchy, 
and  evQn  among  themselves,  they  have  from  time  to 
time,  their  kings  and  queens.  Our  gipsies  are  extremely 
ignorant  of  political  philosophy.  They  do  know  that 
her  Majesty  Queen  Victoria,  is  the  Queen  of  England 
The  names  of  Disraeli  and  Gladstone  had  not  yet  reached 
them.*     They   have   no   Komany  words  for    poUtical 

•  In  1873,  tall  Noah  had  never  heard  of  the  name  of  Disraeli,  the  author 
and  the  statesman.  Koah  thought  he  had  heard  of  the  name  of  Gladstone, 
hut  did  not  know  who  he  was.  He  had  heard  of  Dickens ;  for  he  kept  a 
post-office  in  a  country  village,  near  which  they  sometimes  camped.  We 
did  not  pursue  our  inteirogatories  any  further ! ! 


THE  KROQKLBVEN.  487 

regeneration ;  they  take  no  interest  in  the  rights  of 
man.  Let  them  foUow  their  wild  nomadic  life,  they 
are  satisfied.  The  Queen  has  worse  subjects  than  our 
gipsies.  It  is  possible  that  tall  Noah,  would  answer 
a  political  philanthropist,  much  in  the  words  of  the 
"  needy  knife-grinder," — "  I  shall  be  glad  to  drink  your 
honour's  health,  in  a  pot  of  beer,  if  you  will  give  me 
sixpence,  but,  for  my  part,  I  never  love  to  meddle  with 
politics,  sir.'' 

It  is  probable  that  tall  Noah  might  be  answered  in 
the  well-known  words  of  the  philanthropist, — "  Wretch, 
whom  no  sense  of  wrongs  can  rouse  to  vengeance  ;  sordid, 
unfeeling  reprobate,  degraded,  spiritless  outcast !" 

Then  we  can  only  say  it  would  be  very  inconvenient 
for  the  philanthropist,  if  he  was  within  a  mile  of  tall 
Noah's  tent. 

.  Our  middags-mad  consisted  of  tea,  bread,  butter,  and 
cheese.*  At  half-past  three  o'clock  we  were  once  more 
en  route  for  the  Krogkleven.  Descending  the  hill  by 
the  Yik  Station,  the  master  of  the  station  came  out. 
We  halted  the  donkeys  for  him  to  see  theuL  He  is 
a  very  pleasant  man.  The  station  seems  very  comfort- 
able.    It  is  mentioned,  that  there  is  good  fishing  near. 

Reaching  the  shore  of  the  Steens  Fjord,  a  storm  seemed 
to  be  gathering.  Then,  as  we  came  to  a  fisherman's 
house,  and  saw  him  leave  with  his  boat,  and  nets,  we 
deemed  it  a  sure  harbinger  of  calm  weather.  Soon  after 
the  threatened  storm  cleared  away.  We  crossed  the 
bridge  over  the  Steens  Fjord  to  Sundvolden. 

*  Besides  the  Norwegian  cheese,  called  "Myse  Ost,"  before  described, 
they  have  a  very  old,  decayed  kind  of  cheese,  called  "  Qammel  Ost,"  which 
is  mnch  esteemed  in  Norway. 


488  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

The  magnificent  cliffs  of  the  Krogyeven  were  nov 
above  ns.  A  man  pointed  out  the  Kongen's  Udsigt 
or  King's  view.  At  Sundvolden  they  accommodate 
travellers.  The  house  seems  large  and  commodious. 
They  have  a  pleasure  garden,  with  a  small  fountain,  but 
we  observed  that  the  garden  lacked  taste  in  arrangement, 
and  freshness,  and  beauty  in  flowers. 

When  our  cavalcade  passed  the.  large  open  space 
in  front  of  the  station,  a  tall,  pale,  young  Norwegian, 
apparently  belonging  to  the  house,  said  to  Noah,  with 
some  authority,  "  Hvor  fra  reisen  de."*  Noah,  who  was 
in  advance,  probably  did  not  understand,  or  as  usual, 
did  not  answer  every  inquisitive  question,  and  kept 
pushing  on.  Immediately  after  we  commenced  the 
steep  ascent  to  the  heights  of  the  Krogkleven.  It  is 
generally  said,  that  the  ascent  to  the  Kongen's  Udsigt 
takes  about  an  hour.  Very  shortly  afterwards,  we  were 
overtaken  by  the  pale  young  Norwegian,  with  an  elder 
companion,  who  took  off  his  hat,  and  bowed.  He  said, 
in  excellent  English,  that  he  had  seen  an  account  of  us 
in  the  newspapers.  He  owned  a  farm  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, and  wished  to  buy  one  of  our  donkejrs. 
Explaining  that  we  had  already  promised  one  as  a 
present,  and  that  we  should  probably  take  the  other  two 
to  England,  after  a  short  conversation  he  left.  The  road 
was  most  picturesque.  It  would  have  been  a  sad 
omission,  had  we  left  Norway,  without  returning  by  thi^ 
route.  In  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  we  reached 
the  house  at  the  top  of  the  gorge.  A  woman  lives  in  the 
house,  which  being  near  the  King  and  Queen's  View,  is 
used    for    the   temporary  reception   of   travellers,  and 

♦  Where  do  you  travel  from  ? 


CAMP  NEAR  THE  KINCP8   VIEW.  489 

pic-nic  parties.  From  the  large  open  space,  at  the 
summit  of  the  ascent,  the  main  road,  now  level  and  flat, 
passes  through  the  forest  towards  Christiania.  A  track 
leads  through  the  woods  on  one  side  to  the  Kongens 
Udsigt,*  and  on  the  other  to  the  Dronning's  Udsigt.t 
At  the  summit  of  the  ascent  near  the  house,  a  large 
board  is  fixed  up,  upon  which  is  painted  the  figure  of  a 
navvy,  with  his  spade ;  an  iron  box  is  placed  under,  with 
a  narrow  sHt,  to  receive  money,  for  the  benefit  of  the 
men  who  made  the  road.  We  read  de  haute  voix,  for 
the  satisfaction  of  Esmeralda,  the  following  inscription  : — 

Oh,  I  have  Toamed  o'er  many  lands,  but  never  yet  have  seen 
Nataie's  face  so  grand  and  fair,  as  in  this  land,  I  ween. 
And  from  this  cleft,  how  calmly  grand,  the  varied  beauties  vie— 
The  nestling  hamlet,  glassy  lake,  and  mountain  towering  high. 
'Tis  true !  'tis  worth  a  pilgrimage  ;  but  why  not  smooth  the  way  ] 
Help  us,  my  friend ;  yon  box,  your  mite,  it  shaU  be,  as  you  may. 

We  gave  a  mark.  The  inscription  is  also  written  in 
Danish  and  German. 

From  this  point  we  were  now  only  twenty-one  English 
miles  fix)m  Christiania. 

As  we  were  copying  the  inscription,  Noah  and 
Zachariah,  had  proceeded  onwards,  along  the  road  towards 
Christiania. 

After  following  them  about  a  mile,  we  returned  back 
in  a  heavy  shower  of  rain,  to  camp  on  the  open  space  at 
the  head  of  the  Krogkleven  gorge. 

*  King's  View.  t  Queen's  View. 


CHAPTER  XLI. 

"I  fear,  Colonel,"  I  replied,  "that  I  most  plead  guilty  to  having 
been  an  aawciate  of  these  gipsy  Tagabonds,  and  I  may  as  well  add  Ihst 
I  have  spent  nearly  aU  the  summer  with  them,  and  found  them 
pleasaat,  healthy,  and  instmctiye  companions.  I  like  the  gipsies,  and 
the  wild  life  they  live;  and  it  is  a  pleasant  occupation  for  me  to 
study  their  manners,  customs,  traditions,  and  language." 

GB0IU3S  S.  Phillips  (Januaiy  Searle). 

BUlOffBR  WANINO — NORWEGIAN  SCENERY— SPLENDID  VIEWS — THE  CBOSS 
PIRB — 80RTB  d6d — ROMANTIC  CAMP— MANDY'S  A  RTB — THE  TOURIsfS 
DOG — THE  HOBBENENGREE's  SURPRISE — THE  BARON  AT  BCERUMS  TEBK 
— SNAKE  KILLED  NEAR  OUR  TENT— OUR  LAST  NIGHT  IN  CAMP- 
ADIEU,  CAMP  LIFE. 

On  the  open  space  near  the  road,  our  donkeys  were 
unloaded.  The  spot  was  surrounded  by  forest.  It  was 
convenient  for  an  early  visit  to  the  King  and  Queen  s 
views  next  morning.  A  can  of  milk  was  procured  from 
the  house  near,  for  nine  skillings,  and  with  some  barley- 
meal,  we  had  our  aftens-mad,  which  consisted  of  grod. 
It  was  rather  thin,  but  Noah  pronounced  it  meget  godt 
"WhUst  the  tents  were  being  pitched,  the  pale  young 
Norwegian  from  Sundvolden  passed  by  our  camp,  and 
conversed  for  a  short  time,  and  then  contiuued  his  route. 
We  retired  to  rest  at  eight  o'clock  The  nights  were 
now  getting  cold,  and  damp,  with  heavy  dews,  and  the 
air  had  a  wintry  feeling.  Night  draws  on  quickly,  and 
the  ferns  are  already  changing  tint. 


NORWEGIAN  SCENERY.  491 

It  is  Saturday,  the  20th  of  August.  We  rise  at  five 
o'clock.  Noah  obtained  water  ;  a  fire  was  lighted,  and 
we  had  tea,  bread,  butter  and  cheese  for  our  breakfast. 
First  we  took  Noah  with  us  up  a  broken,  rough  track, 
through  the  forest  to  the  Kongen's  Udsigt.  It  was  not 
far  from  our  camp.  A  lady  and  gCDtleman  had  pre- 
ceded us  on  horseback  The  morning  was  dull,  and 
cloudy.  In  twenty  minutes  we  were  at  the  top  of  the 
cliff,  and  standing  on  a  kind  of  large  balcony  of  rough 
boards. 

An  old  man  suddenly  appeared  from  the  rocks  near, 
as  a  spider  would  pounce  on  two  flies.  He  pointed  out 
different  Qelds,  and  told  many  of  their  names.  What  a 
magnificent  extent  of  wild  mountain,  wood,  and  water 
lay  before  us!  The  Gousta  we  could  distinctly  see, 
although  said  to  be  distant  seventy  English  miles.  It 
recaUed  to  mind  a  period  of  former  travel,  when  we  once 
ascended  its  wild,  and  narrow  ridge,  of  loose  rocksj  to  its 
highest  point. 

Far  below  us,  we  could  see  the  smooth  waters  of  the 
Tyri  Fjord,  the  Steens  Fjord  and  the  Holz  Fjord. 

As  to  the  wooden  frame- work,  it  was  covered  with 
names — the  pencilled  autographs  of  numerous  travellers  ; 
many  now  dead  and  gone.  Yet,  amongst  the  many,  we 
saw  the  name  of  ''  B.  Disraeli." 

Half  a  mark  as  we  left  made  it  indispensably  necessary 
that  we  should  shake  hands  with  the  old  man  of  the 
Krogkleven. 

In  a  short  time  we  reached  the  Dronning's  Udsigt. 
The  plateau  is  at  a  somewhat  lower  elevation,  between 
two  cliffs  wooded  with  birch  and  fir ;  whilst  we  sat  on  the 
wooden  seat,  Noah  quite  agreed  with  ourself,  that  the 


492  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

Tiew,  though  very  beautiful  and  extensive,  did  not  equal 
the  Kongen's  Udsigt 

As  we  returned  to  our  camp,  we  observed  on  a  gate 
the  name  of  Luk  Grindon.  At  the  house,  the  woman 
showed  lis  a  horn  of  birch  wood,  about  a  yard  long, 
which  she  sounded  for  us>  and  ultimately  Esmeralda 
succeeded  in  blowing  it. 

When  we  came  to  our  camp,  Zachariah  had  struck  our 
tents,  and  packed  the  things  up  ready  for  loading.  The 
pale  young  Norwegian  again  passed  along  the  road ; 
speaking  in  Norwegian,  he  said,  "  It  must  be  very  cold/' 
Esmeralda  got  out  our  tin  box,  and  we  presented 
him  with  our  gipsy  song.  Esmeralda  was  fuU  of 
energy  and  6re.  Our  visitor  seemed  much  as- 
tonished, as  she  flung  the  things  about,  and  occa- 
sionally we  had  a  cross-fire  of  English,  and  Ro- 
many, which  he  did  not  understand.  Our  visitor, 
apparently,  did  not  know  what  to  make  of  it  as  he  left, 
but  Esmeralda  meant  no  harm.  The  superabundant 
energy  must  be  exhausted,  and,  occasionally,  like  other 
people,  she  got  up  on  the  wrong  side  the  turf. 

Away  we  aU  go  at  ten  o'clock,  through  the  charming 
wild  forest  towards  Christiania.  The  sky  has  cleared, 
and  it  is  a  sunny  day. 

During  our  route  from  Stee  by  Lomen,  Slidre,  and 

other  places  in  the  district  of  the  Valders,   until  we 

reached    Aurdal,   we  had  looked  in  vain    for  anyone 

resembling  a  gipsy.     The  gipsies  who  visited  the  fairs 

at  Veblimgsnoes   generally  stated  they  came  from  the 

Valders,  so  that  we  had   some   hope,  that  in  passing 

through  the  district,  we  might  meet  with  some  of  this 
people. 


SORTE  DOD.  493 

As  we  now  refer  to  the  Valders,  it  was  this  district 
that  suffered  so  severely  in  the  llth  century  from  the 
Sorte  Dod  (black  death). 

It  is  said  that  a  foreign  vessel  stranded  on  the 
Norwegian  coast  with  a  dead  crew.  In  a  short  time 
a  kind  of  plague,  called  the  "  black  death,"  depopu- 
lated many  districts,  so  that  not  a  single  inhabitant 
remained.* 

We  soon  came  near  a  Bondegaard  in  the  forest,  and 
met  a  young  Norwegian  lady  ;  she  smiled  as  she  passed 
us.  "Ah,  sir!"  said  Zachariah,  "you  diks  as  if  you 
would  like  the  cova  juval  for  your  Rawnee." 

Again  we  came  to  open  ground  in  the  forest,  and 
halted  at  twelve  o'clock.  Our  middags-mad  consisted 
of  tea,  sardines,  bread  and  cheese.  The  oil  from  the 
sardines  had  a  most  soothing  effect  on  Esmeralda's 
temper,  she  became  the  perfection  of  amiability,  and 
politeness. 

Again  we  were  moving,  at  three  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon ;  our  wanderings  seemed  somehow  coming  to  a 
close.  **  Upmyderydowno,"  said  Noah,  as  he  lifted  the 
heavy  pocket  on  our  Puru  Eawnee. 

•  In  a  work,  entitled  "  The  Black  Death  in  the  Fourteenth  Century/' 
translated  by  Dr..  Babbington  from  the  German  of  Dr.  Hecker,  published 
in  1833  by  A.  Schloss,  109,  Strand,  London,  it  is  stated  that  the  contagion 
was  carried  from  England  to  Bergen,  where  the  plague  broke  out  in  the 
most  frightful  form,  and  throughout  the  country,  not  more  than  a  third  of 
the  inhabitants  being  spared.  The  sailors  found  no  refuge  in  their  ships, 
and  vessels  were  often  seen,  driven  about,  on  the  ocean,  and  drifting  on 
shore,  whose  crews  had  perished  to  the  last  man.  This  reminds  us  of  the 
skeleton  crew  of  the  "  Glenalvon,"  bound  from  Charleston  to  Sydney,  met 
with  by  Captain  Martin,  of  the  **  Lancaster,"  an  account  of  which  appeared 
in  the  newspapers  of  last  October.  Such  tales  of  the  sea,  dreadful  in  their 
reality,  are  closely  associated  with  the  Phantom  ship  said  to  sail  the  stormy 
seas  near  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  which  has  often  furnished  an  interesting 
subject  for  the  sailors'  night-watch  yams  of  spectral  fmcy. 


494  TENT  LIFE  IN  NORWAY. 

Mephistopheles  soon  after  took  his  violiiL  The  echoes 
of  the  forest  were  awakened  with  wild  gipsy  music,  as 
we  tramped  along  at  a  swinging  pace.  Sometimes  Noah 
with  the  tambourine — sometimes  Esmeralda,  even  the 
Rye,  we  believe,  took  it  occasionally,  to  the  astonish- 
ment of  one  or  two  stray  peasants. 

It  was  a  sunny  evening;  except  at  one  place,  near 
a  sheet  of  water,  we  scarcely  saw  a  house.  After  cross- 
ing a  picturesque  river  in  a  deep  ravine,  we  reached 
the  borders  of  the  forest,  at  a  less  distance  than  a 
mile.  An  extensive  view  of  cultivated  country,  and 
enclosures,  towards  Boerum,  decided  us  to  return  to  the 
ravine. 

"We  had  noticed  a  steep,  and  lofty  wooded  knoll  on 
our  left,  above  the  broken  river  of  the  ravine.  On  our 
return  to  it,  we  found  an  open  space  on  its  summit  to 
pitch  our  tents.  It  was  a  beautiful  camp-ground;  a 
thicket  of  firs  secluded  us;  we  had  bilberry  bushes 
and  juniper,  heath  and  moss  in  luxuriance.  A  steep 
and  lofty  bank  of  loose  stones,  covered  with  moss, 
sloped  steeply  to  the  river.  From  our  camp  we  could 
command  a  view  of  the  road  crossing  the  river.  At 
the  side  of  the  stream,  on  the  opposite  side  the  forest 
road,  some  green  turf  gave  excellent  pasture  for  our 
donkeys.  The  river  wound  its  broken  course  round  our 
camp,  and  was  lost  in  the  deep  and  tangled  thickets. 
Esmeralda  at  once  went  down  to  the  river,  near  where 
the  road  crossed,  to  wash.  Noah  had  only  one  shirt, 
and  he  did  not  like  to  take  it  ofi"  to  be  washed,  and 
be  without  one.  At  last  we  gave  him  one.  of  our  old 
white  shirts. 

Noah  wafi  delighted— "  Dawdy  !  "  said  Noah,  skipping 


MANDTS  A  RYE.  495 

about,  when  he  had  put  it  on,  and  had  given  his  own 
for  his  sister  to  wash.     "  Dawdy !  mandy's  a  Rye,"* 

Presently  two  tourists  crossed  the  river  below,  with 
their  knapsacks  and  dogs ;  one  traveller  was  tall,  the 
other  short,  with  sandy  hair.  The  dogs  commenced 
barking  at  the  donkeys.  They  seemed  surprised  to  see 
Esmeralda,  apparently  alone.  Whilst  calling  their  dogs 
away  from  our  donkeys,  they  spoke  to  Esmeralda ;  as 
they  looked  up,  they  saw  us  looking  down,  from  our 
camp. 

Immediately  after  they  came  up,  and  we  foimd  them 
very  agreeable ;  one  spoke  French.  They  had  come 
from  Christiania,  and  were  going  to  the  Krogkleven. 
They  told  us  some  news  of  the  war.  The  tall  tourist's 
English  dog  sat  up  with  a  pipe  in  his  mouth,  and  his 
master's  hat  on.  This  formed  an  exception  to  our  rule — 
no  smoking  in  camp. 

Before  they  left>  Noah  pitched  our  tents.  Then  Esme- 
ralda came  from  her  washing.  They  were  much  pleased 
with  two  copies  of  our  songs,  and,  as  they  left,  they 
said  they  should  call  on  their  return,  but  we  never  saw 
them  a